Modern technologies construction, like any other, allow you to equip a bathroom as complete as in a block or brick house. For such buildings there are no special restrictions regarding the use of finishing materials and engineering systems. In such a house, the bathroom can be located on the first floor, and on the second, and even on the third. The use of new production technologies, improved for, makes it possible to do this. However, the first floor, near load-bearing wall- This is an ideal place for arranging a bathroom.
The top is covered with waterproofing, which also covers the lower part of the walls. Outwardly, it looks like a trough. The top of this sandwich is again filled with concrete, onto which the tiles will be attached.
The design of such a floor is characterized by significant weight - up to 200 kg per square meter. meter. This should be kept in mind when designing, calculating the number and performance of floor beams.
This is a simpler and, accordingly, somewhat lower quality method of waterproofing for wooden house. It consists of laying a sheet of plastic linoleum directly on the boards. The piece is cut out taking into account an overlap of 5 cm on the walls, and is mounted with an upward bend. In places where it comes into contact with the walls, it is attached with glue, then this place is filled.
Even at the design stage, it is necessary to consider the future arrangement of mandatory ventilation ducts. It would be ideal to construct a special drain ladder. For this purpose, the floors are made with a slight slope, and a drain is provided for them. 
Another way to make a bathroom in
As noted above, proper waterproofing is the most important characteristic frame building bathroom. More precisely, it would be reliable insulation of all wooden elements. For this purpose, a vapor-waterproofing membrane is laid on the supporting structures (using a construction stapler). Then metal profiles are installed, intended to become the basis for subsequent wall upholstery.
They are upholstered with special, moisture-resistant sheets (GKLV). To enhance their strength and reliability of water vapor barrier, this is done in two layers. The first layer is attached to the profile using self-tapping screws, the second with special adhesive composition. This way the walls acquire the strength they need, and there is no need to treat the screw heads with sealant. When the installation of KGLV sheets is completely completed, plastic is poured into the joints between them. Now you can start finishing.
Tiles in frame house
Her role in in this case PVC panels, ceramic bathroom tiles, and special types of painting can be used. Tiles or panels are considered the most preferable, as they provide the entire structure with greater hydro-vapor protection.
Ceramic tiles and panels in frame structure, as in any other house, they are attached using special glue.
But to grout the resulting joints, a special, plastic product is used. This is due to the properties of GKLV.
The technology and procedure for installing a ceiling in a bathroom in practice resembles the arrangement of walls. First, a vapor barrier is securely attached to the beams, then metallic profile or slats. Using self-tapping nails, a special moisture resistant drywall. Next, all existing joints are reliably insulated with sealant.
Installation of a plasterboard ceiling with additional ventilation The ceiling does not require a second layer of plasterboard sheets, so the screw heads must also be treated to avoid corrosion. Next is the turn of gluing the PVC panels. This is a rational and practical finishing material, with good attitude prices to quality. More expensive way ceiling covering – suspended ceiling. It meets all existing requirements for hydro-vapor barrier, but requires more careful handling during operation. It is also better to play it safe and install additional ventilation in the bathroom ceiling.
These types of materials have excellent moisture resistance, they are quite durable, and are made from harmless materials, which allows them to be used as a base for flooring. Then there is a layer of film waterproofing, which is filled with a cement screed.
What should you pay attention to when carrying out this work?
You can entrust the installation of floors to the masters, professional builders. They will make floors quickly and efficiently. True, it's far from cheap. You can save money by laying the floors yourself. Moreover, the installation of floors is not particularly complicated. You just need to carefully study the technology of their installation and apply the acquired knowledge in practice correctly, in a certain sequence. Below we will talk about how to make OSB floors yourself, choose the material, what tools you will need, and the work that needs to be done.
Pox is, let's say, a sandwich that can consist of 3 or more layers. Two (top and bottom) layers are pressed boards made from wood chips. The chips are laid lengthwise in the outer layers of the slabs and across in the inner ones. Therefore, the board as a whole is called oriented strand board. The shavings can be impregnated boric acid, wax, formaldehyde resins. Between the layers there is insulation, which can be used as polystyrene foam, as well as polyurethane foam.
| Manufacturer | Length | Width | Thickness | price, rub. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Arbec LP Norbord | 2440 | 1220 | 6.3 | 390 |
| Arbec LP Norbord | 2440 | 1220 | 8.0 | 435 |
| Arbec LP Norbord | 2440 | 1220 | 9.0 | 450 |
| Arbec LP Norbord | 2440 | 1220 | 9.5 | 450 |
| Arbec LP Norbord | 2440 | 1220 | 12 | 620 |
| Arbec LP Norbord | 2440 | 1220 | 15 | 860 |
| Arbec LP Norbord | 2440 | 1220 | 18 | 990 |
| Kronospan | 2440 | 1220 | 9 | 420 |
| Kronospan | 2440 | 1220 | 12 | 540 |
| Kronospan | 2440 | 1220 | 15 | 695 |
| Kronospan | 2440 | 1220 | 18 | 820 |
| Kronospan | 2440 | 1220 | 22 | 995 |
| Kronospan | 2500 | 1250 | 9 | 440 |
| Glunz | 2500 | 1250 | 9 | 680 |
| Glunz | 2500 | 1250 | 12 | 890 |
| Glunz | 2500 | 1250 | 15 | 1120 |
| Glunz | 2500 | 1250 | 18 | 1330 |
| Glunz | 2500 | 1250 | 22 | 1620 |
| Kalevala | 2500 | 1250 | 9 | 460 |
| Kalevala | 2500 | 1250 | 12 | 600 |
| Kalevala | 2500 | 1250 | 18 | 910 |
| Kalevala | 2800 | 1250 | 12 | 730 |
OSB is mainly used in construction and furniture production. Marked and used as follows:
OSB can be varnished on one side, covered with laminate, tongue and groove, or on two or four sides.
The plate is a rectangle with the following dimensions:
Above we have given the dimensions standard plate. Sometimes you can find OSB on sale with dimensions of 1.25 meters by 2.5.
The advantages of OSB are as follows:
Unfortunately, there are restrictions on the use of OSB. During pressing, the chips are impregnated with resins that contain toxic substances. They constantly release volatile compounds of these substances into the environment. Therefore, when choosing a stove, you need to pay attention to how much of these substances is released by a particular brand of stove, and in what area it is allowed to be used.
There are two types of OSB flooring. The first one consists of concrete screed, waterproofing, intermediate subfloor, OSB itself. The second type is waterproofing, joists, preferably a subfloor, OSB.
It is better to buy a tongue-and-groove slab. There should be tongues on two opposite sides, and grooves on the other two. This type of plate is easier to install.
The log is a timber. In construction, logs with dimensions of 5 by 5 centimeters or 5 by 7 are mainly used to make logs. The number of logs depends on how the flooring itself will be arranged. If there is no subfloor, then the number of joists increases.
If you plan to lay the floor on a screed, you will need a lath, because the slab cannot be laid directly on the screed, even if waterproofing is placed on it. Any wooden product it must breathe, that is, absorb air and release accumulated moisture. This is why they create a gap between the floors and the screed. Otherwise, from the moisture accumulated in the product, and the tree already stores moisture in itself, and even absorbs it from the screed, it will begin to rot and, in the end, will become unusable, no matter how well it is made.
Can be used for subfloors edged board or plywood, OSB itself.
To make the screed you will need cement of at least M-300 grade and sand. You can prepare the solution yourself, but it’s easier to buy ready-made dry solution in the store. sand-cement mixture. Consumption per sq. m. is indicated on the packaging. Concrete mix, which includes filler, gravel, crushed stone and the like, should not be done at home. You will never be able to prepare high-quality concrete mortar by hand.
For a better and more even floor filling, you will need beacons.
In Russia, skirting boards are usually installed on the floors. It also serves as a decorative detail and closes the gap between the wall and the floors. The gap is made specifically to allow the board to expand as the temperature rises. If it is not planned, then you can do without a plinth.
The slab is usually fastened to the timber with nails and glued with glue. This means we will need both glue and nails. When installing floors, screw nails or self-tapping screws are used.
To fill the cracks you will need wood putty. This means you will also need a spatula. You will need a wooden hammer, a mallet for holding the slabs together, and a metal hammer.
The entire installation of any floor is divided into three main stages:
The last stage is known to everyone. Therefore, we will not consider it.
In the future, we will conduct all discussions keeping in mind that the installation of floors is carried out in a residential area. IN utility rooms or buildings, the floors are laid in the same way and in the same sequence as in the apartment. Only there are fewer restrictions and lower requirements. We will divide all stages into stages. Let's call them steps and present our reasoning in the form step by step instructions for the execution of work.
So, preparatory work.
Step one. Selecting the type of floor. That is, we decide whether we will lay it on a screed or on. If we choose logs, it is better to first draw a drawing of their location. It will help you correctly calculate the number of lags.
| Thickness floor board, mm | Gap between lags, mm |
|---|---|
| 20 | 300 |
| 24 | 400 |
| 30 | 500 |
| 35 | 600 |
| 40 | 700 |
| 45 | 800 |
| 50 | 1000 |
2nd step. We calculate the volume of work and draw up cost estimates.
3rd step. We are purchasing materials. When purchasing a stove, be sure to ensure that it matches sanitary standards. It is advisable to buy lumber, boards for subflooring, beams, slats already dried and treated with fireproofing and antiseptics. If you were unable to purchase such lumber, you will have to purchase an additional antiseptic and treat the wood yourself.
4th step. We process the slab, remove burrs and irregularities from the edges. We treat the lumber with an antiseptic and lay it out to dry. It is laid in layers. A spacer is made between the layers. It is needed to ensure that the material breathes and dries evenly and quickly. The wood is dried for at least 24 hours. The drying temperature should be +10 degrees or higher.
5th step. If the floor is laid for the first time, then the remaining floor is removed. construction work garbage.
If OSB is laid to replace the old floor, then the old one, of course, cannot be used as a rough floor. The floor must be dismantled carefully so as not to damage the plaster on the walls. To do this, take out the nails and remove the board, then remove the joists. We release the floor slats (each) from the grooves, move them to the side and remove them.
6th step. We install beacons to level the floor level. At least three marks on each wall. We draw a line between them. Between the wall and the line, measurements at any point should show an angle of 90 degrees.
If we install the floor on a screed, then we will have to perform several actions.
1. Install beacons for pouring the screed. The distance between them should be no more than 50-60 cm. This will make the screed more even. We check the installation of beacons with a level. If there is a slope, we level it.
2. Prepare the solution. It should not be too liquid or too thick. Fill the area prepared for the screed, level the solution as a rule, level with the installed beacons.
| Brand | Packaging, kg | Price, rub | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Weber. Vetonit 5000 (Vetonit 5000) | 25 | 550 | Vetonit 5000 self-leveling floors are a mixture that sets quickly, dries quickly and is applied by hand. Cement based for leveling all concrete bases. The mixture does not contain casein. |
| Self-leveling floor Osnovit T45 | 20 | 296 | Quick-hardening self-leveling floor for leveling the surface of the base with a layer of 2 to 100 mm. Allows you to create finishing coat, on which after 3 days you can lay ceramic tiles, or after 7 days linoleum, carpet, laminate, parquet, cork covering or wooden floors. |
| Rapid-hardening self-leveling floor Prospector | 25 | 280 | Purpose - for high-quality leveling of floor surfaces inside all types of buildings and structures for subsequent coatings (linoleum, tiles, parquet, etc.). Recommended for dry and moderate wet areas. Layer thickness 5-80 mm. |
| Weber finishing self-leveling floor. Vetonit 3000 (Weber Vetonit) | 25 | 660 | Vetonit 3000 is excellent for the final leveling of floors inside the premises themselves, not only in residential buildings, but also in various offices, public buildings. The surface, which is leveled, can be covered with stone tiles, various PVC coverings, vinyl tiles, as well as textile carpets. |
| Self-leveling floor Yunis Horizon universal | 20 | 250 | Composition: cement, mineral filler small fraction, chemical additives. Thickness of the applied layer: from 2 to 100 mm. |
The screed will set in a day and you can work on it. But it will gain full strength no earlier than in two weeks, depending on the temperature in the room. The higher the temperature, the faster the screed gains strength. Hence the conclusion: heavy objects can be placed on the newly laid floor no earlier than after 14 days.
| Name | Application area | Rough base | Layer thickness | Consumption kg/m2 | Drying time | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Floor screed, 25 kg | Preliminary surface leveling | Concrete, cement-sand base | 10-50 mm | 20 | 24 hours | 128 RUR/pack. |
| Self-leveling universal mixture Ceresit CN 175/20 | Making screeds, repairing floor defects, leveling the base for floor coverings | Concrete, gypsum, cement-sand bases | 60 mm | 16 | 72 hours | 340 rub./pack. |
| Floor screed BOLARS Base, 25 kg | Leveling the base for the finishing coat | Concrete, cement screed | 10-100 mm | 18 | 24 hours | 217 rub./pack. |
| Finish self-leveling floor Vetonit 3000, 25 kg | Finishing the floor | Concrete, cement-sand screed | Up to 5 mm | 1,5 | 4 hours | 622 rub./pack. |
| Self-leveling self-leveling floor GLIMS-S-Level, 20 kg | Finishing the floor | Concrete, plaster screeds, basic levelers | 2-30 mm | 3 kg (layer thickness 2 mm) | 24 hours | 478 rub./pack. |
| Self-leveling floor Perfekta Multilayer, 20 kg | Basic surface leveling | Concrete, cement, gypsum bases | 2-200 mm | 14 (layer thickness 10 mm) | 2-3 hours | 312 rub./pack. |
3. After the screed has set, check it with a level. If there are unevenness or slopes, pour an additional layer of mortar to level it.
If the screed turns out to be smooth, then we lay waterproofing on top of it. You can use simple roofing felt or any other material intended for these purposes. We lay the lath on top of the insulation. We would advise laying it both lengthwise and crosswise, in the form of rectangles, the sides of which are aligned. Their dimensions should correspond to the dimensions of the slab or be slightly smaller. Coat the rail with glue.
It is also possible to install slabs without using slats. In this case, the concrete screed is coated with rubber glue.
4. Place the slab on the rail. We take a mallet and knock down the slabs as tightly as possible. The tongue should fit completely into the groove. Ideally, there should be no gap between the plates.
5. We fasten the slabs to the lath using nails or self-tapping screws.
If OSB is laid directly on the joists, then it is better to install them lengthwise and crosswise. The fact is that OSB is a complex structure and it is unknown how it will behave after drying, shaking, and shrinkage. And laying the logs in the form of rectangles will reduce the load on the slab itself and reduce the likelihood of defects. All other actions that need to be performed are exactly the same as when installing the floor on a screed.
Let me give you one piece of advice. The best, in our opinion, installation of OSB floors is a design that involves the installation of an intermediate subfloor. It will give the entire floor additional strength, stability and significantly reduce the load on the coating itself, i.e. on the slab. As an intermediate floor, you can use the slab itself, plywood, or an old floor. But the latter can only be used if it is well preserved and there are no serious defects. You need to remove everything from him old paint, level, seal cracks. Scratches, sand, treat with an antiseptic and only after these preparatory work you can lay a slab. Actually, both on plywood and on OSB, which will be the subfloor, you also need to repair all defects and cracks. We have already described the remaining steps for laying the finished floor above.
Good afternoon Is it possible to lay rubemast on OSB boards? Thank you!
Andrey, Kuznetsk.
Hello, Andrey from Kuznetsk!
It is impossible to answer your question unambiguously. In some cases this can be done, and in some cases it cannot. It all depends on the environment that exists under the OSB boards.
I'll start from afar.
Firstly, what is rubemast? This is most often roll material, made of cardboard impregnated on both sides with molten bitumen composition. Then these rolls are coated on one side with talc (or mica, or marble, other types of chips), and on the other side with fine-grained fractions (such as talc) or a thin polymer film. This is done so that the rolls do not stick together on their surface during storage or transportation. As often happens with roofing felt, which has been stored for a long time and then cannot be rolled out without the risk of tearing through the stuck together layers.
There are two types (brands) of rubemast - lining and roofing. One is used for waterproofing foundations and walls, the second for roofing. Both are used only for laying on horizontal surfaces, sometimes on surfaces with a slight slope. /For vertical laying They use glass insulation, it has a strong and rigid cord base and can withstand heavy loads, unlike rubemast./
When laying rubemast on various surfaces(including the OSB boards you mentioned), the latter are impregnated with a primer, after which the surface of the base and the surface of the rubemast are heated with a burner. The rubemast film (if it is covered with it) melts. The rolls are rolled out and trampled down for better connection with the soles of shoes. So that there are no "poppers". /A month later roofing works this kind of thing, you can throw out your shoes, take my word for it./
When working, overlap the edges of the rolls by about 8 - 10 centimeters. Install the rolls strictly parallel to the edges of the roof. Otherwise, during long runs, a large displacement is obtained and the amount of overlap can change to such an extent that either there will be a breakthrough, or the overlap will be twice as large. However, these nuances are for very long roofs.
If you do this, you should pay attention to not overheat the OSB boards with the flame of the burner, they do not like open fire and can...
The second is OSB boards. This is a prototype of our former chipboard, but more durable than it, since OSB boards are made from several layers of oriented chips by shaping and hot pressing. Using a number of resins (including those harmful to humans - formaldehyde) and the addition of synthetic wax.
Due to the fact that the layers of chips and chips are arranged mutually perpendicular (surface layers in the longitudinal direction, internal layers in the transverse direction), a strong structure is created. Strength also increases due to the thickness of the slabs (starts from 9 millimeters). Depending on the brand (OSB, OSB-1, ..., OSB-4), they can be used from a completely dry environment to a damp one, maintaining their strength.
Due to impregnation, slabs can increase their moisture resistance, and they are called “moisture resistant”; they can be coated paint and varnish coatings, laminated on the top surface.
This is all from the theoretical part, it may not bother you at all, but since this answer is read by hundreds of site visitors besides you, then, I suppose, some of them general development It’s not superfluous to know this.
And now purely for you. If you are going to cover OSB boards with rubemast on the roof of your house, then the flag is in your hands. Instead of a burner, you can use a regular household heat hairdryer (not the same, of course, as for drying the hair on your head) or do without it altogether, smoothing the roll of rubemast well from the waves and securing it with tar nails or self-tapping screws with a press washer.
But if this concerns the subfloor or basements, then it is better to refrain. The evaporating moisture of the underground will condense on the lower surface of the slabs, penetrate into their thickness, and accumulate. And since rubemast (waterproofing) will lie on top of the slabs, moisture will not pass through it.
This process will take several years, after which this layer cake-sandwich will fall apart.
With all due respect to OSB boards, which can and should be used in some places during construction, I would not use them here.
I know from experience that any OSB sheet placed in a humid environment, even if it is moisture resistant, will not last long. For example, when in a children's sandbox that had a roof, we made two doors to close the sand from side rain, using 9 mm moisture-resistant OSB boards, after three years they delaminated.
I can’t help but make fun of our OSB board dealers. Such a stove, brought from Canada, cannot cost 3 - 3.5 times more than there. Moreover, produced in the vastness of our vastness.
They want to live curly. However, this is so, by the way.
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This time we will take a closer look at how to independently waterproof OSB, chipboard, plywood, and wood. As in previous articles in the “do it yourself” section, the work is performed using modern materials of the Hyperdesmo waterproofing system ® System from Alchimica (Greece).
Example: garage roof repair
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| Roof repair | OSB installation |
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| Waterproofing OSB | Finished roof |
Let us immediately note that not every OSB surface is subject to waterproofing. OSB boards that have been exposed to heavy rain, as a result of which the chips (shavings) began to “rise and swell,” are not subject to waterproofing!
1. Surface requirement
The construction of the OSB surface must be carried out at least with slabs of the third type - OSB-3. The choice of thickness depends on the purpose of the surface (roof, terrace, floor, bathroom, etc.) and the base. Regardless of the base (joists, sheathing, rafters, metal or wooden frame) OSB boards must be installed securely and correctly. Namely:
The coating of OSB boards must be clean, smooth, dry, without swelling chips. Clean the surface with a broom, brush or vacuum cleaner. If necessary, lightly sand the surface and/or apply a primer.
2. Sealing and reinforcement of expansion joints
The creation of expansion gaps (or expansion joints) must be provided when laying OSB slabs (between the slabs - 3÷5 mm, along the perimeter - 10÷12 mm). This is due to changes in temperature and humidity conditions environment– OSB boards expand slightly in volume. The absence of expansion joints can lead to waviness and swelling of the slabs relative to each other.
Fill gaps with polyurethane sealant. The recommended ratio of width to depth is 1 to 0.5÷1. To fix the depth of sealant, use a rope made of foamed polyethylene.
The next day (when the sealant has dried), apply Hyperdesmo AshAA along the seams in a strip of 15÷20 cm at a rate of 0.8 kg/sq.m ➔ embed in a fresh layer of waterproofing 10 cm wide.
Suppose for some reason dilatation gaps were not provided. In this case, the junction points OSB boards to each other and along the perimeter (to the wall) are subject to mandatory reinforcement.
If there are doubts about the quality (condition) of the OSB or its installation, then it is necessary to reinforce the entire surface with geotextile fabric
3. Application of waterproofing (1st layer)
Apply only to dry and clean surfaces. applied with a brush, brush, roller (short and medium pile) or airless sprayers ( operating pressure> 200 bar). The consumption of Hyperdesmo AshAA mastic should be 0.6 ÷ 0.7 kg/sq.m. To do this, you can conditionally divide the area into sections and roll out the bucket into sections.
4. Application of waterproofing (2nd layer)
Application of the second layer is possible as soon as the first layer can be walked on (6 ÷ 48 hours). Before applying the second layer, carry out a visual inspection (control) of the surface to see how the first layer has applied. When identifying small cracks, cracks, “holes” - seal them with Hypersil 25 LM sealant ➔ apply a second layer liquid rubber Hyperdesmo AshAA with a flow rate of 0.6 ÷ 0.7 kg/sq.m.
5. Application of waterproofing (3rd layer)
Applying the third layer (after 6 ÷ 48 hours, depends on weather conditions) liquid rubber Hyperdesmo AshAA with a flow rate of 0.6 ÷ 0.7 kg/sq.m.
Total consumption of Hyperdesmo AshAA for OSB, chipboard, roofs of houses made of SIP panels, plywood and others wooden coverings must be at least 2 kg/sq.m.
| Material | Consumption per m² |
Price (€) per unit change |
Price (€) per m² |
| 0,2 | 9,50 | 1,90 | |
| 0,18 | 5,90 | 1,06 | |
| 1,5 | 0,10 | 0,15 | |
| - | - | depending on the weather | |
| 2 | 6,00 | 12,00 |
Frosts began and surprises began for those living in a frame house. Some, and I should say many, had unpleasant surprises. It started dripping from the ceiling and walls. People rushed to the Internet in shock and panic. There they find my articles on the topic of condensation. As a result, I get painfully identical questions. I wanted to give the owners of dripping frames one universal answer. Perhaps it will help many people not to ask me the same questions, which are already making me hiccup!
What happened to your frame? Why is water dripping?
In most cases this is condensation. The fact that warm air from the room passes into the frame and moves through the insulation is to blame. As the air moves, it cools. Condensation is released from it. At first it is simple fogging. But new portions of warm air from the room are constantly approaching and fogging turns into drops. The drops combine and become larger drops. Drops fall down under their own weight, form streams and these streams flow down. Since these streams are in a heat insulator, the water needs to look for a hole. And the water finds her. She always finds it! As a result, droplets are formed. This drop never ends until the frost ends. The warmer the house, the more condensation forms and the stronger the dripping.
But that's not all the negative effects of condensation. Read on! The horror continues!
Condensation does not drip down. It freezes right in the heat insulator. Why? Because he moved too close to the cold. It is clear that at some stage the temperature in the heat insulator goes through zero into the negative zone. Exactly then the steam turns into ice. What's next? And then the ice worsens the effect of the heat insulator. A frozen thermal insulator ceases to insulate! At the same time, the cold boundary gradually moves inside the room. That is, the ENTIRE layer of heat insulation gradually freezes. The house gets colder, we begin to spend more fuel to heat it. What about the drops? And the drops become even stronger, since the warm air from the room can no longer pass deep and melts right under the interior decoration. So what to do?
An example of our frame-panel wall Please note!
By the word “vapor barrier” I mean only and exclusively the insulating layer that is located between INTERIOR finishing and a layer of heat insulator (cotton wool). I don’t call insulating layers in any other places a vapor barrier! But if the vapor barrier is made poorly, with the wrong material and does not perform vapor barrier functions, then I still call this disgrace a vapor barrier. The vapor barrier serves only one single purpose: to prevent warm air from entering the heat insulator. There are no more goals. If somewhere somewhere I claim otherwise, then please send me a link. I'll paraphrase the text.
Note that in this interesting scheme we get a vapor-proof outer layer. And not because of the insulating layer under the OSB! Namely because of the OSB itself, which is absolutely vapor-tight! Why is there also a need for vapor and wind insulation under it? I don’t know! Secret! Maybe the workers were not aware of the matter. Maybe they wanted to scam the owner. Maybe we bought a lot of vapor barrier material and had nowhere to put it.... You never know what the reasons were!
But the vapor-proof outer layer prevents steam from escaping from the frame. All the steam that got into such a frame will remain there. Is this bad? Yes, it's bad. What to do? The vapor barrier in this frame should be simply of cosmic thoroughness. Not a single gram of air from the room should get inside the frame. Is this difficult to implement? Yes. difficult. I will not mislead you, dear readers.
Would I make a wall like this for myself? No! Never! And precisely because of the super sealed outer layer.
But it is what it is. This is our wall. What should we do with it?
What would be good to do, but is hardly possible
It would be great to tear off the outer upholstery, tear off the OSB, tear off the insulation that was under the OSB, and seal everything with clapboard (imitation timber, blockhouse, siding) without any insulation. Then the steam that would penetrate the wall would freely come out of the wall outside, into the cold, and we wouldn’t have any drops. In addition, even if our cotton wool got wet, it would dry out at the first warming. To prevent the cotton wool from flying into the air, you can cover it with a windproofing layer.
But developers are not ready for this, because it is comparable to rebuilding the entire house. So let’s forget this option as good, but impossible due to technical and economic parameters.
Will drilling holes in OSB help to allow steam to escape?
Yes. Will help. But you need to know exactly where to drill and how much. It is better to drill evenly across the entire wall and a little more on top. How much to drill? Well, so that the steam escapes and at the same time the wall does not lose its strength. I can't say for sure. And in reality, I probably wouldn’t say so. I would do it by eye. There are a lot of holes, you know, it gets boring to drill. Well, I would drill it and throw it away. Then I would see what happens.
Of course, such work (drilling holes in the wall) again depends on exterior finishing Houses. The one according to OSB. If your house is plastered, then it is difficult to make holes in it... Not physically, but morally, so to speak.
What else can you do?
Actually a lot of things. Here I have prepared an approximate list of options specifically for the wall shown above.
Method 1 (regular)
But keep in mind that water can also form in the ceiling! Then the condensation can flow down the ceiling and get into the wall that way. That is, method 1 is good for use throughout the house from the inside, but not for one current wall.
The essence of the method is that penoplex is absolutely impenetrable to steam. We get additional thermal insulation and quite a serious vapor barrier. That is, in this method we play it safe against steam + get additional insulation.
The essence of the method is that drywall absorbs a terrible amount of moisture! It's unlikely that anything will get through it. In addition, we get an additional degree of comfort, because drywall reflects sound well, that is, we get more quiet house. Is it possible to combine method 2 and method 3 and get an additional two degrees of comfort and double safety net against steam? Yes you can, of course.
You can come up with many more ways, one way or another combining and compiling those already given. In addition, do not forget that increasing the vapor permeability of the outer layer is also a good way.
What if I built myself frame-panel house, then how would I do it?
Well, obviously, I would combine all of the above methods. But again I looked at what I was building, at the functions of this building, at my financial capabilities.
How to distinguish vapor barrier material from windproofing?
Well... according to the label, first of all. But I will write a special article about this.
Some examples
I went online to dig up illustrations. And most of them, the vast majority, either do not reflect the essence, or even contain errors. Here are just some examples:
Pool under the floor
Do you need an underfloor pool? Here he is! Warm air from the room it penetrates under the floor, it condenses there and the moisture will never go anywhere! Notice how carefully the bottom is insulated.
Of course, it was necessary to put the cotton wool directly on the subfloor, but to cover it well on top. Well, it's hard to guess, isn't it?
Why across? Pay attention to this detail!
I would like to note that it would be more logical to attach from top to bottom. Then, when upholstering, we press one layer of vapor barrier to another on the beam and they press well. And so we still have an air inlet and we need to carefully glue this joint! And gluing it is also more difficult, because the joint is on the soft side.
Here you go! If you don't glue it, there will be drops!
Here's the ceiling insulation
Just don’t cover it with anything on top! So they will definitely cover it!
I hope that you will not be disappointed in your new frame house
Dmitry Belkin
Article created 11/25/2014
Article edited 11/28/2014
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This article was brought to me by the total ignorance on the part of both builders and buyers, as well as the phrase “steam-hydro insulation” that is increasingly flashing in commercial proposals - because of which then all the pandemonium begins, lost money, problematic structures, etc. .P.
So, you've probably heard about waterproofing, windproofing and vapor barrier - that is, about films that are placed in insulated roofs and frame walls to protect them. But then, a complete “steam and hydrodisorder” often begins.
I will try to write very simply and easily, without immersing myself in formulas and physics. The main thing is to understand the principles.
Let's begin with main mistake, is to mix steam and moisture into one concept. Steam and moisture are completely different things!
Formally, steam and moisture are water, but in different states of aggregation, respectively, having a different set of properties.
Water, aka moisture, aka “hydra” (hydro from ancient Greek ὕδωρ “water”) is what we see with our eyes and can feel. Tap water, rain, river, dew, condensation. In other words, it is a liquid. It is in this state that the term “water” is usually used.
Steam is the gaseous state of water, water dissolved in the air .
When a common person he talks about steam, for some reason he thinks that it must be something visible and tangible. Steam from the nose of a kettle, in a bathhouse, in a bath, etc. But actually it is not.
Steam is present in the air always and everywhere. Even now, as you read this article, there is steam in the air around you. It is the basis of that same air humidity, which you have probably heard about and more than once complained that the humidity is too high or too low. Although no one saw this moisture with their eyes.
In a situation where there is no steam in the air, a person will not live long.
Taking advantage of different physical properties water in liquid and gaseous states, science and industry have the opportunity to create materials that allow steam to pass through, but do not allow water to pass through.
That is, this is a kind of sieve that can let steam through, but will not let water in a liquid state.
At the same time, particularly smart scientists, and then manufacturers, figured out how to make a material that would conduct water only in one direction. How exactly this is done is not important to us. There are few such membranes on the market.
So, a construction film that is impervious to water, but allows steam to pass equally in both directions is called waterproofing vapor permeable membrane. That is, it allows steam to pass freely in both directions, but water (hydra) does not pass through at all or only in one direction.
Vapor barrier- this is a material that does not allow anything to pass through, neither steam nor water. Moreover, at the moment, vapor barriers membranes- that is, materials that have one-way permeability to steam have not yet been invented.
Remember as “Our Father” - there is no universal “vapor-hydro membrane”. There is a vapor barrier and vapor-permeable waterproofing. It is fundamentally different materials- With for different purposes. Using these films in the wrong places and in the wrong places can lead to extremely tragic consequences for your home!
Formally, vapor barrier can be called vapor barrier, since it does not allow water or steam to pass through. But using this term is a recipe for making dangerous mistakes.
Therefore, once again, in frame construction, as well as in insulated roofs, two types of films are used
These materials have different properties and using them for other purposes is almost guaranteed to lead to problems with your home.
To understand this, you need to add a little theory.
Let me remind you that the purpose of this article is to explain “at a glance” what is happening, without delving into physical processes, partial pressure, molecular physics, etc. So I apologize in advance to those who had five in physics :) In addition, I’ll immediately make a reservation that in reality all the processes described below are much more complicated and have a lot of nuances. But the main thing for us is to understand the essence.
Nature has decreed that steam in a house always flows in the direction from warm to cold. Russia, a country with a cold climate, has an average heating period of 210-220 days out of 365 per year. If you add to it the days and nights when it’s colder outside than in the house, then even more.
Therefore, we can say that most of the time, the vector of steam movement is directed from inside the house, out. It doesn't matter what it's about we're talking about- walls, roof or lower ceiling. Let's call all these things in one word - enclosing structures
In homogeneous structures, the problem usually does not arise. Because the vapor permeability of a homogeneous wall is the same. The steam easily passes through the wall and exits into the atmosphere. But as soon as we have a multilayer structure consisting of materials with different vapor permeability, everything becomes not so simple.
Moreover, if we talk about walls, then we are not necessarily talking about frame wall. Any multi-layer wall, even brick or aerated concrete with external insulation, will make you think.
You've probably heard that in a multilayer structure, the vapor permeability of the layers should increase as the steam moves.
What will happen then? Steam enters the structure and moves through it from layer to layer. At the same time, the vapor permeability of each subsequent layer is higher and higher. That is, from each subsequent layer, steam will come out faster than from previous.
Thus, we do not form an area where the saturation of steam reaches the value when, at a certain temperature, it can condense into real moisture (dew point).
In this case, we will not have any problems. The difficulty is that achieving this in a real situation is not easy.
Let's look at another situation. Steam has entered the structure and moves outward through the layers. I went through the first layer, the second... and then it turned out that the third layer was no longer as vapor-permeable as the previous one.
As a result, the steam that gets into the wall or roof does not have time to leave it, and a new “portion” is already supporting it from behind. As a result, before the third layer, the vapor concentration (more precisely, saturation) begins to increase.
Remember what I said before? Steam moves in a direction from warm to cold. Therefore, in the region of the third layer, when the steam saturation reaches a critical value, then at a certain temperature at this point, the steam will begin to condense into real water. That is, we got a “dew point” inside the wall. For example, at the border of the second and third layers.
This is exactly what people often observe when the outside of their house is covered with something that has poor vapor permeability, such as plywood or OSB or DSP, but there is no vapor barrier inside or it is made poorly. By inside external cladding rivers of condensation flow, and the cotton wool adjacent to it is all wet.
Steam easily enters the wall or roof and “slips through” the insulation, which usually has excellent vapor permeability. But then he runs into outer material with poor penetration, and as a result, a dew point forms inside the wall, right in front of the obstacle in the path of steam.
There are two ways out of this situation.
It is along the second path that they go in the west, making a hermetically sealed obstacle in the path of the steam. After all, if you don’t let steam into the wall at all, then it will never reach the saturation that will lead to condensation. And then you don’t have to rack your brains over what materials to use in the “pie” itself, from the point of view of the vapor permeability of the layers.
In other words, installing a vapor barrier guarantees the absence of condensation and dampness inside the wall. In this case, the vapor barrier is always installed on the inner, “warm” side of the wall or roof and is made as airtight as possible.
Moreover, the most popular material for this “they have” is ordinary polyethylene 200 microns. Which is inexpensive and has the highest resistance to vapor permeation, after aluminum foil. Foil would be even better, but it's hard to work with.
In addition, I would like to point out Special attention in a word, hermetically sealed. In the west, when installing a vapor barrier, all joints of the film are carefully taped. All openings from communication wiring - pipes, wires through the vapor barrier - are also carefully sealed. The installation of overlapping vapor barriers, popular in Russia, without gluing the joints, can result in insufficient tightness and, as a result, you will get the same condensation.
Untaped joints and other potential holes in the vapor barrier may cause wet wall or roofing, even if there is a vapor barrier itself.
I would also like to note that the mode of operation of the house is important here. Summer country houses, in which you visit more or less regularly only from May to September, and maybe several times in the off-season, and the rest of the time the house is without heating, you can forgive you for some vapor barrier flaws.
But a house for permanent residence, with constant heating, does not forgive mistakes. The greater the difference between the external “minus” and the internal “plus” in the house, the more steam will flow into the external structures. And the greater the likelihood of getting condensation inside these structures. Moreover, the amount of condensate can ultimately amount to tens of liters.
I hope you understand why make a vapor barrier with interior wall- in order to prevent steam from entering structures at all and to prevent conditions for its condensation into moisture. But the question arises: where and why to install a vapor-permeable membrane and why it is not possible to install a vapor barrier instead.
In American wall construction, a vapor-permeable membrane is always placed on the outside, on top of the OSB. Its main task, oddly enough, is not to protect the insulation, but to protect the OSB itself. The point is what Americans do vinyl siding and others facade materials directly on top of the slabs, without any ventilation gaps or sheathing.
Naturally, with this approach, there is a possibility of external atmospheric moisture getting between the siding and the slab. How - this is the second question, heavy slanting rain, construction flaws in the area of window openings, roof junctions, etc.
If water gets between the siding and the OSB, it can take a long time to dry there and the board can begin to rot. And OSB is a bad material in this regard. If it begins to rot, this process develops very quickly and goes deep into the slab, destroying it from the inside.
It is for this purpose that a membrane with one-way water permeability is installed in the first place. The membrane will not allow water, in case of a possible leak, to pass to the wall. But if somehow water gets under the film, due to one-sided penetration, it can come out.
Don't let the word superdiffusion confuse you. Essentially this is the same as in the previous case. The word superdiffusive only means that the film allows vapor to pass through very well (vapor diffusion)
IN pitched roof, for example, there are usually no slabs under metal tiles, so a vapor-permeable membrane protects the insulation from both possible leaks from the outside and from blowing by the wind. By the way, this is why such membranes are also called windproof. That is, a vapor-permeable waterproofing membrane and windproof membrane- as a rule, one and the same.
In the roof, the membrane is also installed with outside, in front of the ventilation gap.
In addition, pay attention to the instructions for the membrane. Since some membranes are placed close to the insulation, and some with a gap.
But why not install a vapor barrier? And make a completely vapor-tight wall on both sides? Theoretically, this is possible. But in practice, achieving absolute tightness of the vapor barrier is not so easy - there will still be damage from fasteners and construction flaws somewhere.
That is, some tiny amount of steam will still get into the walls. If there is a vapor-permeable membrane outside, then this minuscule has a chance of coming out of the wall. But if there is a vapor barrier, it will remain for a long time and sooner or later, it will reach a saturated state and again the dew point will appear inside the wall.
So - a windproof or waterproofing vapor-permeable membrane is always installed outside. That is, from the “cold” side of the wall or roof. If there are no slabs or other structural materials, the membrane is placed on top of the insulation. Otherwise, in the walls, it is placed on top of the enclosing materials, but under the façade finishing.
By the way, it is worth mentioning one more detail, for which films are used, and the wall or roof is made as airtight as possible. Because best insulation, this is air. But only if he is absolutely motionless. The task of all insulation, be it polystyrene foam or mineral wool, is to ensure the stillness of the air inside it. Therefore, the lower the density of the insulation, the higher, as a rule, its thermal resistance - the material contains more still air and less material.
Using films on both sides of the wall reduces the likelihood of wind blowing through the insulation or convection air movements inside the insulation. Thus, forcing the insulation to work as efficiently as possible.
The danger lies precisely in the fact that under this term, as a rule, two materials are mixed, with different purposes and with different characteristics.
As a result, confusion begins. Vapor barrier can be installed on both sides. But the most common type of error, especially in roofs and the most terrible in terms of consequences, is when the result is the opposite - a vapor barrier is installed on the outside, and a vapor-permeable membrane is installed on the inside. That is, we calmly let steam into the structure, in unlimited quantities, but do not let it escape. This is where the situation shown in the popular video comes into play.
Moreover, this can happen both with the ceiling, and with the wall or roof.
Conclusion: never mix the concepts of vapor-permeable waterproofing membranes and vapor barriers - this is the right road to construction mistakes that have very serious consequences.
Fear has big eyes; in fact, with films in a wall or roof, everything is quite simple. The main thing to remember is to follow the following rules:
PS If you are interested in a little more information about the difference in vapor permeable waterproofing membranes, I recommend reading this short document
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To protect the insulation under OSB, it is important to use vapor barrier film, which will help extend the service life of the insulation and maintain its integrity. As for windproofing, it is necessary in some cases.
Wind protection under OSB is simply irreplaceable in cases where the house is insulated mineral wool, ecowool, and other types of insulating materials that are susceptible to the destructive effects of moisture and steam.
The main reasons why you need to make wind protection under OSB:
For unheated premises, in which it is not planned to lay insulation, a wind protection layer under the OSB may not be laid.
Special windproof films are ideal for modern and affordable wind protection under OSB.
Advantages of films: Installation of a vapor barrier on a ceiling with wooden floors in a private house Which side should the vapor barrier be laid to the insulation on the bathhouse ceiling? 
How to properly install a vapor barrier on the ceiling from the attic side?
