Making paneled doors is a complex task that requires special skills. But simpler doors can easily be made with your own hands by a person who knows how to hold a hammer and saw in his hands. It’s unlikely that a work of art will work out, but a good product will.
Even the most simple doors made of wood look very good
At self-production doors, first of all, measure the doorway: you need to make a door frame. In most cases, it looks like the letter “P”: install two vertical racks and one horizontal at the top - the lintel or crossbar.
The plank, which is attached below, is rarely used today, but there are rooms special purpose, in which the threshold is required. For example, in the steam room of a Russian bath. A threshold is needed here to prevent steam from escaping.
Having previously assembled the door frame on the floor, you can decide on the dimensions of the future door: they should be a couple of centimeters smaller than the frame you made. After you do door leaf, cut in the hinges. Doors made of wood are heavy, and it is very difficult to carry them and try on the hinges. Therefore, it is more convenient to do everything on the floor. Mark the fastenings for the hinges, make a recess to the required depth, install them on the jamb and on the door leaf.
Schematically, the door installation technology looks exactly like this
Then you install the box in the opening, secure it, and only then hang the doors. Here's a general outline of how the process works. Now let’s learn more about how to make doors with your own hands.
According to the rules, the door frame pillars must be hidden in the floor and rest on the joists. But today, wooden floors are not made everywhere in our country, and therefore more often they are simply rested on the finished floor. But by the time the door is installed, the floor must be ready, only the baseboards have not been nailed down.
We assume that the floor and doorway are ready. Decide what type of box you will install: “U”-shaped or with a lower jumper. Draw a diagram, measure the opening, and plot the measurement results on the image.
When installing the door frame and hanging the door leaf, it is important to align everything evenly: both the posts and the leaf
For brick, concrete or other similar walls, the dimensions of the box should be a couple of centimeters smaller than the opening: a gap is needed for mounting elements and foam. For walls made of timber or logs, they generally make a frame or casing - bars installed around the perimeter with a small gap, which will compensate for the shrinkage of the building, and at the same time fasten the logs or beams that have become loose after cutting out the opening. Of course, Additional materials and work, but this is the only way to guarantee that the doors will not jam.
As a result of measurements, the height of the two side bars - racks - may differ slightly. It's not scary. It is important that they are vertical, and the horizontal top bar - the lintel - is strictly horizontal.
The door frame is made from one board with a molded groove or a composite one - from several boards glued together. The width of the groove should match the thickness of the door leaf or be a couple of millimeters larger.
To make the box, use planks with a solid or prefabricated protrusion against which the doors will rest.
If you have a woodworking machine on your farm, you do everything yourself. No - you buy it in a carpentry shop, in hardware store etc. You will need two strips for the side posts and one or two (depending on the type of box) for the horizontal jumpers.
The bars from which the jambs are made can be simple, or they can have a shaped (profile) front part. You can install a rubber or silicone seal at the end of the protrusion against which the door leaf rests. To do this, make a shallow cut into it using a special roller (or a regular screwdriver) and install an elastic band. These seals are much more effective and durable than foam rubber ones, there are different colors and forms, sold in hardware stores.
The planks are polished on three sides to perfection. The fourth will be leaning against the wall; it does not need to be processed.
The shape of the door frame slats may vary
Assembly order
At the first stage of assembling the door frame, you need to work with a saw and chisels
Saw off the top jumper to the required width. Now you need to make grooves in it into which the racks will fit. To do this, you need to remove the protrusion to the width of the block. It sounds confusing, but if you look at the photo, everything will become clearer.
Measure the width of the counter, mark this distance on the ceiling, and draw a straight line. Make a cut to the depth of the tenon ( hand saw). Now use chisels to remove excess. Having smoothed it with sandpaper, make two holes for the screws: this is how they will be fastened to the posts.
Do the same on the other side. Just don’t start sawing without measuring the second post: the joinery may differ by a couple of millimeters, and this can lead to the appearance of cracks. First you measure, then you mark, and only then you cut and work with a chisel.
If the structure has a threshold, it is processed in exactly the same way.
Now all that remains is to adjust the height of the side strips. From the total height of the doorway, subtract the thickness of the transverse strips (upper and, if any, lower) and the distance for the mounting foam (1-2 cm). Get the height of the racks. You saw them off and assemble the whole structure together. The door frame was assembled with your own hands. Let's start making the door leaf.
The procedure for making the lintel of a door frame
Doors made of wood can have a complex design. Beginners should not immediately take on such work: they need to learn from simple things. Doors to a bathhouse, a summer house, etc. are ideal in this regard. They rarely come complex structures. The main thing here is reliability and functionality. Attractiveness is also important, but even simple DIY steam room doors are a result you can be proud of. When well processed, they look very decent: the material is beautiful, it does not need any decoration. It is important to properly process and varnish.
Good commercial wood is used for the manufacture of joinery, without knots or with a minimum number of them. If there are knots, they should not be black. You also need dry wood with a moisture content of no more than 12-15%. Ideally, take chamber-drying boards - they will definitely not be damaged. Also look at their geometry: “propellers” and “waves” do not suit us. The boards must be level.
You can buy sanded boards with a molded tongue and groove - there will be less work
Thickness - from 25 mm to 50 mm. Depending on the purpose and design of the door. Before use, their surface is brought to a perfectly smooth state - grinding machines or manually using sandpaper, fixed for convenience on a small block.
A simple option made from planed boards
The simplest wooden interior door can be made from one row of boards 30-40 mm thick, fastened together with transverse strips. Planed and sanded boards are stacked close to one another. There should be no gaps, the match is perfect.
The dimensions of the door leaf should be 4 mm smaller in width and length of the manufactured door frame. Only in this case will it be possible to close them without problems.
To avoid drafts, the boards can be made with profiled edges: make a tenon half the thickness or saw the edges at 45 o. This option is more labor-intensive, but the room will be warm.
The edges of the door boards can be made curly
According to the rules, grooves are cut out in the boards for transverse strips - dowels. The dowels are driven into this groove, fastening the boards together. Having a special wood saw - a reward - is easy to do:
As a result, you will get doors to the steam room, assembled with your own hands, without nails.
You can make wooden doors without nails
You can assemble a similar door easier: by screwing the transverse and oblique strips 25-30 mm thick onto self-tapping screws. If you are installing it in a steam room, it is advisable to recess the caps into the wood, or screw them in from the side of the washing and changing rooms. So, when you touch the door, you will not get burned by the heated metal.
Entrance door made of two rows of boards
If the doors are made from two rows of boards, and insulation is laid between them, you will get a good entrance door or an excellent heat-saving option for a steam room. But then you will need a steam room good ventilation- with this device, air does not pass through the doors.
The first row is assembled in exactly the same way as in the previous version: the boards are tightly fitted to one another and fastened with transverse strips.
Doors made of two rows of boards are already entrance doors
Another row will be laid on top, and the gap can be filled with heat insulation. It is selected depending on the installation location: for the front door it is important that if moisture gets in, the insulation does not lose its properties and is not afraid of freezing. A good option is polystyrene foam; polystyrene foam is cheaper. Mineral wool not suitable - they are afraid of moisture, unless they are protected with a layer of moisture insulation. Then they will keep warm well.
Having laid the heat insulator, it is pressed with a second layer of boards, which are attached to the transverse planks with screws through and through. If you have a door without nails on one side, you can turn this side towards the street: this way you won’t have to worry about unsightly dark streaks coming from the caps during use.
The final stage of manufacturing a wooden entrance door is finishing around the perimeter. In principle, it was possible to fill (screw with self-tapping screws) slats onto the first layer. This is a more correct option. But you can, having assembled both layers, attach thin - 5-7 mm - strips around the perimeter from the ends, covering the insides.
The very last thing: cut in the hinges and install the handles. Then you can install the doors in the doorway. How to do this, read the article “Installing door frames with your own hands”
The final stage is finishing the doorway. This is, firstly, the installation of door trims - if the width of the door frame is not enough, and platbands, which give a finished look.
You can make good ones with your own hands from blocks and plywood. interior doors. There may be several options.
Single layer
This design is suitable for installation in some utility room where sound and heat insulation is not important. This is a frame made of wooden blocks with several transverse strips, onto which a plywood sheet of suitable size is stuffed.
Plywood can be any kind, but 1-2 grades are required for good appearance. She is on front surface does not contain (class 1) or almost does not contain (class 2) knots. This material comes in different thicknesses: from 3 mm to 21 mm. There is moisture-resistant plywood - it can be used in wet areas, there is laminated - in this case there is no need for finishing: it is covered with PVC film and has a look similar to wood.
There are many types of plywood and as a construction or finishing material it is very convenient
When choosing plywood for residential premises or a bathhouse, you need to pay attention not to safety: in its manufacture, glue is used that contains formaldehyde. The content of formaldehyde is controlled, depending on its quantity and intensity of its release into the atmosphere, and an emission class is assigned: from 0 (almost none) to 5. Plywood with emission class 0 and 1 is allowed even for the manufacture of children's furniture. Therefore, it is also suitable for doors to the bathhouse.
Multilayer
The design is similar, only there can be two or three layers. Heat/sound insulation can be laid between them. As a result, similar doors can be installed in a steam room. You just need to take moisture-resistant plywood. It can then be tinted with stain and covered with heat-resistant varnish (if you want, of course) or soaked in drying oil or wax.
Multi-layer plywood doors are easy to make with your own hands
You can fasten plywood using small nails or self-tapping screws. You will have to drill holes for the screws: then you will be guaranteed that the top layer will not be damaged.
You can make wooden or plywood doors with your own hands. It is important to choose a suitable design, have some patience and time, as well as a certain amount of materials.
Do-it-yourself doors: entrance, interior, wooden, plywood, manufacturing, assembly, photo, video materials
Wood is a traditional material used for making furniture, interior parts, and finishing materials. The tree is distinguished by its magnificent appearance, environmental friendliness, and ease of processing. Many interior details, such as entrance or interior doors, are often made of natural wood. Finished products is quite expensive and not every person can pay a tidy sum for natural doors. If you really want to, you can decorate the room with your own hands by making interior doors from wood.
As practice shows, it is quite difficult to make doors from natural wood yourself. You need to take into account a lot of nuances, have high-quality and well-dried material, professional tool. You can’t get by with a jigsaw and a hand saw when making solid wood doors; you need a whole range of tools.
Each work on creating a door must be carried out in stages.
If the board was purchased with bark, then using circular saw needs to be cleaned side ends. The door structure requires 4 boards with a width of 15 cm. Two must have a length of at least 200 cm, the remaining two form the width of the door leaf. The standard door has a width of 80 cm, the smaller version is 70 cm. Having decided on the dimensions of the door leaf, you can begin processing the wood.
This is followed by processing the surfaces of the boards. For this work, an angle grinder with a sanding disc is used. When polishing wood, you need to thoroughly clean every centimeter of the surface, otherwise the fibers will ruin the entire appearance when painting. You don't have to touch the ends.
Assembling a solid structure
The second stage is processing the ends using a milling cutter. Corners are processed using chamfers wooden blanks, it is important to slightly round them, and not to give them round shape. Next, using a narrow chamfer, grooves are cut in 2 ends, identical in length and width of the boards. This groove must match the width of the pre-laminated particle board purchased. It is optimal to purchase material with a thickness of 15-16 mm. The groove on the long end of the board should be driven exactly in the middle. Cutting depth 2 cm.
The next stage is processing all the narrow ends of the boards. For this job you need a circular saw. With its help, the ends of the boards are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. You can measure the angle using a protractor. It is important to cut the corners so that when assembled, the long and short top boards form the letter P. The bottom board should also fit together with the side boards.
The middle of the door, the so-called panel, is cut out of the laminated board, which not only reduces material costs, but also becomes a decoration of the structure.
Cutting laminated board
The dimensions of the laminated workpiece are calculated quite simply. If the width of the processed boards is 15 cm, and the width of the door is 80 cm, then the insert made of laminated material should be 54 cm. 50 cm for the visible surface, and 2 cm for shrinkage in the grooves at the ends of the boards. The height is calculated exactly like this. The height of a standard door is 200 cm, the boards along the edges of the leaf are 15 cm, which means that the height of the laminated board should be 174, where 4 cm goes to the grooves. Total: the size of the laminated material blank should be 174 by 54 cm.
Step-by-step instruction making interior doors
In order to make sure that the entire door structure is made correctly, all parts match completely, fit into the grooves, there are no gaps or distortions, you need to carry out preliminary assembly without using glue and eurobolts. To do this, all the elements are connected, the laminated board is carefully seated in the grooves using a wooden mallet.
If everything is done correctly, you can start drilling holes for fastening fittings. To do this, fasteners are drilled into the assembled structure, into the upper and lower grooves on both sides. The length of confirmations must be at least 7 cm.
Installation of door hardware
After the holes for the fasteners are drilled, the door structure needs to be disassembled. Ahead is the installation of fittings and application finishing coating. Experts do not recommend drilling holes for handles and locks in assembled door, this can damage the laminated coating of the insert, thereby ruining the appearance of the door leaf.
Locks with handles do not need to be inserted right away; you just need to drill holes for them in the wood. After this you can start final assembly designs. A little glue is poured into the grooves intended for shrinking the laminated board insert. Then the laminated panel is inserted into the grooves and seated using a wooden mallet. A few drops of PVA glue are poured into the holes for the fasteners and the confirmations are screwed in. The canvas is ready.
For this work, you can use a variety of paints and covering materials. It all depends on individual preferences. But before you coat the wood, it needs to be prepared.
For this you need wood putty. The material is selected by color. If, for example, the door is planned to be painted in Wenge color, then the putty for sealing seams, chips and other defects should be dark.
Final painting wooden elements doors
After the drying oil has dried, you can begin painting the door leaf, after first gluing masking tape to those places that will not be painted. In our case, we need to cover the laminated panel from paint.
There are several rules to follow when painting doors.
After painting, you need to let the canvas dry for several days. After this, you can begin installing the fittings and installing the door in the doorway.
How to install a homemade door
Installing a door is a process no less labor-intensive and complex than its manufacture. To form a door frame, you need profile bars, which are assembled into a structure similar to the letter P. The bars, like the platbands, must be painted in the same color as the door leaf.
In the corners, the connection of the side beams and the top lintel must be made accurately and carefully, otherwise the box will warp. All assembled structure is inserted into the doorway and attached to the anchor. The gaps between the wall and the frame are foamed with polyurethane foam. In the future, these visual defects will be hidden by the platband.
The next stage of work is attaching the hinges to the door leaf. You also need to attach counter hinges to the door frame. It is important that the location of the fittings completely coincides, otherwise you will have to cut the hinges in a new way, ruining the appearance of the canvas or box.
Router for installing hinges
The painted door already has a lock cut into it; after it is placed on the hinges, you need to cut a hole in the door frame for the lock. The trim is attached, hiding all the imperfections, and the door is ready with your own hands.
Let yours new door makes you and your family happy!
Making wooden doors with your own hands
Without doors, even the most elegant building can hardly be called a home. Entrance, interior, balcony doors not only protect your home from thieves and noise, but also make it more comfortable and attractive. Very often, in a design solution, it is the doors that play the role of the final chord, without which the entire decoration loses its chic.
Probably every zealous owner has thought at least once in his life that a wooden door made with his own hands will be much better than a purchased one. There are many reasons for this, it could be:
Today nothing is impossible for anyone seasoned master, not even for a beginner who picked up a plane and a hammer for the first time. Do-it-yourself wooden door is a topic on which you can find a wide variety of instructions and descriptions.
Standard for independent work wood or metal is taken. Moreover, in the vast majority of cases, preference is given to wood. This is understandable; wooden doors have been made with their own hands since man built his first house. Wood is a soft and pliable material, which, if properly processed, can become durable and last for many years.
The first prototypes of wooden doors, as historical excavations have shown, date back to the times of Alexandria. From then to the present day, the principle of their manufacture has remained almost unchanged, despite many latest technologies and tools.
Despite the fact that today many newfangled materials have been developed for the manufacture of furniture, window blocks and, of course, doors, natural wood remains a constant priority. This is understandable; wood is the most environmentally friendly material. Wherever the plant grows, it will destroy harmful carcinogens rather than become saturated with them.
Advantages
In addition to environmental friendliness, there are a number of other advantages, for example:
Of course, many are artificial composite materials They are not inferior to wood in these parameters, and in some ways they can even be superior. But the natural qualities of natural wood, which provide coolness in the heat and warmth in the cold, cannot be replaced by either laminate or plastic. And doors made from high-quality wood according to your own drawings and with your own hands will undoubtedly best element in the house.
But, unfortunately, like any natural material, wood has its drawbacks, which must be taken into account when making a wooden door with your own hands.
Flaws
Absorption. This is the property of wood to absorb water molecules from the air, which leads over time to deformation or a change in the original dimensions of the product.
But, all these negative qualities are solved by correct processing, pre-drying and coating with protective compounds.
Of great importance for creating a high-quality wooden door with your own hands is right choice source material. It is no secret that different tree species differ significantly in physical and mechanical properties.
The source material, which is widely represented in construction markets today, is divided into two main groups: coniferous and deciduous trees.
Hardwood
This group contains the most valuable wood, superior to the rest in hardness, with a fairly high density, original texture and pleasant natural color.
These are mainly hard, expensive varieties, such as:
To more affordable breeds and having at least high qualities include oak, ash, cherry.
Oak is a highly durable and very hard wood that is resistant to biological decay. And thanks to the high content of tannins, oak blanks are perfectly pickled. The material is easy to process even hand tools and is excellent for making curved parts.
Ash can compete with oak in hardness and strength, is significantly superior in the beauty of texture, but is many times inferior in biosafety. If ash is not treated with an antiseptic, then after the first wet season it will begin to rot.
Conifers
Softwood boards have always been a priority construction market and are still in high demand. This is due to affordability and big amount positive characteristics. In the overwhelming majority, blanks are made from pine, less often from spruce.
Spruce has a more capricious wood. It is highly susceptible to breakdown and biodegradation. But, on the other hand, it almost does not accumulate moisture and does not change its shape. In addition, spruce has significantly higher thermal conductivity indicators.
Analyzing all the parameters, we can say that pine is the most the best option for making wooden entrance doors with your own hands. If you plan to make interior doors, then it is better to give preference to hardwood.
You cannot say “good” or “bad” about a tree. At correct selection material, taking into account the purposes and operation, any array will be ideal. It is important to clearly know what kind of wooden door you are going to make with your own hands, and well-chosen wood will be an excellent helper for you.
The classification of doors has a rather complex structure. According to the main purpose, external and internal forms are distinguished, that is, entrance or interior doors.
According to the manufacturing technology, doors can be:
Doors with keys
The simplest and most affordable option for how to quickly and easily make a wooden door with your own hands. The technology consists of connecting selected bars with dowels, which can be positioned depending on the imagination of the master: across, in the letter “Z”, in a herringbone pattern or in another pattern. The dowels can be made of the same wood, metal or special plastic.
Doors with simple straight bars are installed in utility rooms or as external in country houses. Using curly dowels, you can use this method to make wooden doors with your own hands in the “country” style, which can advantageously emphasize the overall theme of the kitchen or living room.
Paneled doors
It's more complex circuit for making a wooden door with your own hands, which requires a separate frame and inserts - panels. Insert strips can be of a wide variety of shapes and materials. They are installed according to the “tenon and groove” principle.
Most often, such doors are made for interior spaces, but with desire and little effort you can make a durable one front door. The variety of materials that can be selected for inserts allows you to make wooden doors with your own hands of the most whimsical design, completely in harmony with the design of living rooms.
Panel models
The most budget-friendly option for making wooden doors with your own hands is the panel model. The principle of the device is based on covering a chipboard sheet with wooden planks, which strengthen the structure. Veneer is usually used for finishing. Such products are suitable for indoor use only.
The scheme for making wooden doors with your own hands, regardless of the type, is always the same. Small differences relate to the selection and installation of fittings, reinforcing elements and finishing touches.
Before you begin making a wooden door with your own hands, you need to make sure that the boards you purchased meet the accepted standard, do not require additional drying and do not have visible defects. Next, prepare necessary tools. If your home kit is missing something, you need to purchase or rent it in advance.
Tools and materials
Preparing frame parts. The measured and cut boards for the frame must be carefully sanded on the wide sides. The ends can be left untouched; they will be processed during the milling process.
Select the necessary cutters and perform the following operations:
Angular trimming of the ends of parts. The ends of all prepared boards must be cut at an angle of 45 degrees. The easiest way to do this is with a circular saw. Make sure the lengths of the vertical and horizontal parts match.
Cut the chipboard to size. This should be done according to the following scheme: door width minus board width x2 + groove depth x2. If you are not confident in your abilities, you can buy ready-made cut material.
Before installing confirmants, it is necessary to perform a test assembly. To do this you need to fill finished parts on the chipboard and check whether the structure lies evenly and whether there are any defects or gaps. Then make holes in the top and bottom of the door, and install confirmants.
The desire of every craftsman is to make wooden doors with his own hands better than factory products. Therefore, the closest attention must be paid to the decoration stage.
You can complete the finishing with veneering or lamination, highlight the beauty of the natural pattern with colorless or tinted stain, or simply paint it in a suitable color.
Do-it-yourself wooden door: how to make it yourself, videos, diagrams and drawings
Entrance wooden door to a private house, photo
A wooden entrance door can be made by anyone with the right hands. Doors are one of the main elements for the interiors of most buildings.
They have certain functions: protection from unwanted visitors, heat preservation, protection from unnecessary noise, etc. Nowadays, such structures are increasingly made of metal, but the internal ones are almost always wooden.
Let's take a closer look at the manufacturing process itself.
how to do
Main structural elements for the doors there are boards that form a panel, two dowels and a strut. It is located diagonally and serves to protect against distortions.
Usually the slope and dowels are tapped onto the panel. For this purpose bars are used. In more difficult cases The dowels cut directly into the boards. For these purposes, the keys are made according to the dimensions shown in the figure.
The cuts are made with circular electric saws, setting them at the desired slope (about 60 degrees).
External side can be either simple or embossed. The corners of the platbands form a “mustache” at 45 degrees. First, the vertical platbands are sawed down and leveled.
Then a platband (horizontal) is placed under their upper part. Mark the angle with a pencil on one side and saw it off. Then the same is done with a different angle.
Wooden entrance doors are installed with your own hands, fastening the platbands with finishing nails or self-tapping screws.
The most common defects are warping due to dry material. If there are pins, then in case of warping it will not crumble. Missing pins is unacceptable.
When making wooden entrance doors with your own hands, you cannot do without hinges. There are more than 20 types of loops (see). The height of the hinges can vary from 30 to 40 cm. For home doors, 75-150 cm is sufficient.
The most common are semi-hinged removable ones, consisting of two cards (one with a rod, the other without). Hinges on hinges are sometimes used. Loops can be left or right, as well as universal.
Before installing the hinges, the panel is placed so that there is no gap between the opening and it along the line of the hinges. To do this, use scraps of hardboard or identical slats, placing them so as to have a uniform gap.
The hinges are cut at a distance equal to their height, measured from internal corner framework. If there are thorns in that place, you need to step back 1 cm from them.
After installing the spacers and measuring the distance at which the hinges will be located, the cards are outlined with a pencil. Sockets for loops are selected with a chisel based on the depth of thickness. The surface of the hinges should be flush with the door panel, as well as the bar of the rack.
Helpful advice! Door hinges are attached with self-tapping screws. If you use colored screws, you need to know that they are fragile. Black wood screws are better tempered and more durable.
If over time they begin to close loosely or creakingly, they need to be adjusted. Adjustment (see) involves lubricating the hinge, tightening the screws, replacing them with longer ones, and installing wedges in the holes (if they are loose).
Lubricants are thick and hard consistencies: pieces of graphite rod, grease, lubricants. After removing it or as a result of lifting it, you need to push lubricants into the hinge hole in a certain amount. If after a while the grease begins to come out of the hinges, it means that you put too much of it.
Sometimes they sag a lot, clinging to the floorboards. In order to eliminate this, you need to place washers of a certain thickness of internal and external diameter between the hinge cards.
You can also rearrange the hinges higher, or plan the lower end of the door leaf. Planing should be done moderately in order to maintain a minimum gap given the permissible humidity of the room.
When making wooden entrance doors with your own hands, you need to keep in mind that if gaps have formed between the panel panels, they need to be sealed and puttied, or sorted out, or covered with planks.
Helpful advice! To avoid the door leaf or handle hitting the wall when opening, you need to secure a buffer (stop) to the floor. The farther it is located from the loops, the better.
It is better if there is no lock, but there is one. If fitted correctly, the handle will be sufficient to close the door with good tightness. If the door opens a little, a leather heel is stuffed onto it.
The heel is printed to the required thickness on the panel closer to the handle, or on the upper end. The handle must be attached to the harness, but not to the paneled board, as this will be stronger. When installing the handle, it is moved away from the opening so as not to injure your hand.
Locks are installed on external doors. The most commonly used locks are padlocks with loops, as well as overhead and mortise locks. The simplest option is hanging ones, but they are less reliable.
Chains, closers, latches, bolts, peepholes and other elements can also be installed on external doors.
Before you make a wooden door with your own hands, you need to select the material. For these purposes, it is best to use wood species that are durable, but at the same time easy to process. These include:
| wood type | Peculiarities |
| Pine | Among the advantages we can highlight such points as:
The only thing that should be noted is that pine can dry out over time, so it is not always appropriate. |
| Alder | It is also easy to handle and lightweight. The only thing is that alder must be carefully treated with antiseptic compounds, as it is highly susceptible to decay. |
| Birch | Quite hard and dense wood with a beautiful texture. |
| Oak | It is a very strong and durable wood, however, difficult to process. In addition, oak is quite expensive. |
| Beech | Strong and durable breed, resistant to mechanical stress. The only thing when making beech doors is that this wood is susceptible to moisture. Therefore, it requires special processing. |
| Larch | Is durable and durable material, resistant to moisture. The only drawback of larch is its fairly high cost. |
| Maple | It has good strength and is easy to process. Other advantages of maple include resistance to moisture. |
Note!
If you want to make wooden doors to a bathhouse with your own hands, then it is better to use linden, since this wood does not release resin when heated.
It must be said that special impregnations allow you to change certain qualities of wood.
Therefore, the main selection criteria are usually:
There is another manufacturing technology panel structure, which uses insulation. To make it you will need boards 25 mm thick and at least 50 mm wide, as well as sheets of plywood.
Making an insulated door
So, a warm wooden door is made with your own hands in the following sequence:
The paneled design is much more complex in execution, since it consists of many parts. Therefore, it is better to start making it after gaining experience in making simpler products. True, after manufacturing all the elements, the paneled door is assembled like a construction set, without any difficulties.
Framed door design diagram
In structure, it resembles window frame, since it consists of a frame (banding) and panels that fill the space of the frame.
Advice!
Since the door is a collapsible structure, when any of its parts become unusable, you can repair wooden doors yourself by replacing the damaged element with a new one.
So, the process of its manufacture is as follows:
Often people cannot choose suitable door from the available assortment. Some people buy what they have, while others decide to do everything themselves. To make wooden doors with your own hands, you will need some special woodworking equipment, tools and, of course, it is better to have carpentry skills. But still, if you don’t have everything, then you can improvise along the way and achieve the necessary success. In addition, readers will learn how to select and dry boards for a future door.
Usually pine is used to make wooden doors, less often - spruce. It is bad to use for products, because its wood contains many branches, which make work much more difficult. In addition, the fiber structure is heterogeneous and often delaminates. For these reasons, the optimal type of wood to make wooden doors with your own hands is pine.
To make the door beautiful and smooth, you need to carefully select the boards. They must be without flaws, not have large branches, and the structure of the fibers itself must be even. If blue is visible on the surface, this means that the storage technology was violated and the material began to rot. It is better not to use such wood, because it will begin to rot in the future.
In any case, to be completely sure of the material, it needs to be dried. Even if it looks ready for use, it is better to play it safe before making wooden doors with your own hands. Each board must be laid on spacers that will prevent the wood from touching each other. This is necessary so that the moisture contained inside the fibers can escape freely. If this is not done, mold will form and ruin the material.
The place where the wood will be dried must be well ventilated and, preferably, the temperature should be above 25 °C. This process takes from a month to two.
Wood can be dried faster by placing it in a special chamber for this purpose. It creates a temperature of no more than 50 °C. If you make it higher, the resin may leak out, and it holds the fibers together. To ensure that a wooden front door made by yourself is durable and lasts a long time, you should not rush through this process.
The drying chamber can be made in the garage, booth required size, or car body. The boards are laid as when drying in the open air, interspersing them with spacers.
A good one with your own hands should effectively protect your home not only from intruders, but also from cold and noise. Therefore, one side is made absolutely flat and covered with fiberboard, on which insulation is then placed.
Based on the internal dimensions, we determine the dimensions of the door itself. In addition, you need to decide on the gaps and bottom clearance. When everything is ready, you can cut a rectangle from a sheet of fiberboard that will exactly repeat the shape and size of the door. It is worth paying special attention to marking and cutting out corners. They should all be 90°.
So, we plan two boards, making them 5 cm thick and 11 cm wide. We will create wooden doors with our own hands for standard box 200*90 cm. So that the canvas does not rub against the surface, and also opens and closes freely, you need to reduce its dimensions a little. Therefore, the doors will be 192*82.
Before designing and assembling the door, you need to check the geometry of the frame so that its corners are clearly 90°. For entrance doors, five panels are most often made. This solution allows them to be made from entire pieces of material. So, you need to plan two boards 192 cm long, and four 72 cm long, this taking into account 5 cm studs on each side.
It is better to place the panels symmetrically, but if you want to achieve an asymmetrical shape, you can fasten them as necessary, this will not affect the functionality of the structure. It is worth remembering the 5 cm grooves.
When everything is ready, the wooden front door is assembled with your own hands and checked to see if everything is straight. At the same time, make sure that there are no gaps in the grooves, and at the same time, the tenon fits freely. If everything is fine, then the door is disassembled and then put back together, but with glue. Since this is an entrance door, it will be affected by the external environment. For this reason, it is better to further strengthen the structure with dowels. They are 1 cm wide. Then we take a drill of the same diameter and drill holes for them at the joints. They must go through the spike. After this, the dowels are coated with glue and driven in.
When everything is dry, you can trim the joints and grind off the protruding parts of the dowels so that the surface is completely smooth.
Now, to make a wooden door with your own hands, you will have to work with a milling cutter. We put on the so-called window cutter. She needs to select a material half the thickness of the canvas to install panels in these grooves. The corners will be rounded, so they will need to be finished with a chisel.
They are turned from solid pieces of wood and must fit tightly into the grooves without gaps. One side of the panel is made flat, and on the other you can even cut out a pattern, everything is at the discretion of the master. Next, this part of the door is sanded to make it easier to assemble all the components of the leaf. The panels should be flush with the surface. It is impossible for any part of them to protrude; this may subsequently lead to deformation of the fiberboard sheet with which the door will be covered.
When everything is placed perfectly, you can fasten the panels with self-tapping screws. They need to be screwed in at an angle on the side where the fiberboard will be. And, of course, not a single self-tapping screw should come out on the front part. Therefore, their size must be carefully selected. Now all that remains is to nail down the fiberboard sheet and you can cover it with stain or varnish, whatever you want. Here we describe in detail how to make wooden doors with your own hands, step-by-step instructions.
Initially, they decide how many hinges the door will be attached to. Then they carefully mark it so that everything fits together, and use self-tapping screws to secure the hinges to the canvas and the box. Then to check how it opens and closes. If everything is done correctly, then, being completely open, the door will be in the same position as it was left. If there is the slightest misalignment, then it will open or close. Adjusting and installing wooden doors with your own hands can be a painstaking process, but it must be done perfectly, because comfortable living in the house depends on it.
So that external noise does not bother you, and the cold cannot pass through the canvas, it needs to be insulated. After all, if you cover only a wooden door with a protective layer, it will perform its functions well only in the warm season. And the sounds of the street will pass through more. To improve the door, it is worth insulating it.
To insulate a wooden door with your own hands, you need to cover the half of it that is covered with fiberboard with foam rubber. This should be done so as to leave one centimeter of space free from insulation along the entire edge of the canvas. Later we will nail it outer material. If the foam rubber still gets out of the frame, it needs to be cut off with a sharp knife.
The material for upholstery can be different, usually leatherette is chosen, or less often fabric. To do everything efficiently, it is better to use the services of an assistant. This way, insulating a wooden door with your own hands will be much faster and, most importantly, of better quality. You need to attach the material using a centimeter wide area that we did not seal with foam rubber. When the end is secured, the material is leveled and work continues. The tension should be even to avoid wrinkles.
When one part is done, move on to the one opposite. To do this, one worker stretches the material, and the other secures it with the same stapler. When the work is done, rollers need to be nailed around the perimeter of the canvas, which will prevent cold air and extraneous sounds from the outside from entering the home.
Rollers are made from the material used to cover the door; they should be about a centimeter thick. They are then nailed to the edges of the door using construction nails.
It is better to buy more material for upholstery, because it will stretch over the foam rubber. You will also need to make rollers from it, so you need to carefully calculate everything.
Now we have considered everything related to the question of how to make wooden doors with your own hands, drawings, diagrams and subtleties of work. From the images it is easy to understand the whole principle of what parts the canvas consists of. It is not necessary to make the door the same size as in the drawings, because the openings and frame are different. However, it will be much easier to create your own project based on them.
In order for the door to serve for a long time, you need to choose suitable hinges on which it will be attached. There are many types of them, but the most common are semi-hinged ones. Their design is simple, and if necessary, the owner can easily remove the door by lifting it up in the open position.
You can also hang the canvas using hinges. They are similar to the first ones, only the axle in them is unscrewed. This type of door cannot simply be lifted to remove it.
The vestibule and veranda in the design of houses of the past are not luxury and excess, but quite functional room. And its main function is to insulate living spaces from the cold. The fact is that entrance doors in the old days were not particularly special. thermal insulation characteristics, and in the villages they were completely wooden. Of course, people fought against this phenomenon, sheathed their doors with padding polyester and dermantine, and even old padded jackets sometimes found their way here last refuge. But this did not help fully.
Fortunately, today we live in modern world and people who are in the active construction process can often afford to buy a good front door. However, you need to understand that the cost of a quality product is quite high. If you do not want to purchase consumer goods, but buy good door don’t raise your hand, this master class is just for you.
Materials:
- boards 35 mm thick for making a door frame;
- boards 20 - 25 mm thick for covering the door frame;
- slats for the manufacture of door frames and door frames 20 x 50 mm;
- polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, etc.) for door insulation;
- yacht varnish for processing the inner surface of doors;
- primer and wood paint for processing the outer surface of the doors;
- door hinges- 4 pcs (taking into account the weight of the structure);
- mortise door lock and a pair of handles included;
- double-glazed window;
- seal for double-glazed windows and doors;
- wood glue;
- self-tapping screws;
- one-component wood putty;
- polyurethane foam for installing the door.
Tools:
- stationary or manual circular;
- an orbital sander or grinder with a Velcro attachment for sanding paper;
- drill and wood drill bit with countersink;
- screwdriver;
- a jointer, thickness planer or hand plane if you are using uncalibrated boards for covering the door frame;
- a hacksaw for wood, a hacksaw with pobedit tips for cutting aerated concrete;
- a chisel for straightening the groove for a mortise lock;
- clamps;
- stationery knife;
- putty knife;
- painting supplies - brushes, roller;
- building level;
- construction tape, ruler, square;
- pencil.
Manufacturing process
Step one: choosing material
To make doors, you will need boards and slats made of hardwood - for example, ash, oak, maple. Despite the impressive density and heavy weight of the finished product, such a door will last much longer. As a last resort, you can use pine, as the most affordable of materials. Wood types such as linden, poplar and the like are not at all suitable for such projects.
The boards used to cover the door frame must be calibrated in thickness. Often, lumber passed through a planer has these characteristics.
Attach a wooden strip in the center of the frame - a stop for the door panel. Secure it behind the rail wooden block, protruding above the level of the rail by 20 mm. This way you will get a stop for the protruding door leaf.
All internal elements of the box are glued on. The layer of glue here prevents the formation of cracks, which means it will protect the house from drafts.
The frame parts are also attached joint to joint using glue and self-tapping screws. There is a hole in the center for a glass unit.
Cover the upper plane of the frame with pre-prepared boards. The author left a 4 mm gap between the frame and the door around the entire perimeter.
Cut the foam into pieces of the desired size and fill the voids of the frame with them. If the foam pieces fit perfectly, you won't need foam. Otherwise, use foam to fill the gaps.
Using drills of different diameters, also drill a hole for keyhole and door handles.
WITH inside The surface of the door is treated with yacht polyurethane varnish. As a rule, after the first layer, the painted surface must be thoroughly sanded and a couple more layers of varnish applied. However, the author planned the final paintwork far in the future, when the interior redecorating, therefore, the varnish here acts as a temporary protection for the wood from adverse external influences.
The outer surface of the door is covered with a layer of primer and a layer of paint.
Place the box on pieces of dense foam and fill the gaps with polyurethane foam. To prevent the doorway from deforming during expansion polyurethane foam, install the spacer. After the foam hardens, the pieces of foam can be cut off along with the foam.
Sections of the article:
Without doors, even the most elegant building can hardly be called a home. Entrance, interior, and balcony doors not only protect your home from thieves and noise, but also make it more comfortable and attractive. Very often, in a design solution, it is the doors that play the role of the final chord, without which the entire decoration loses its chic.
Probably every zealous owner has thought at least once in his life that a wooden door made with his own hands will be much better than a purchased one. There are many reasons for this, it could be:
Today, nothing is impossible either for an experienced craftsman, or even for a beginner who picked up a plane and a hammer for the first time. Do-it-yourself wooden door is a topic on which you can find a wide variety of instructions, descriptions, and videos.
As a standard, wood or metal is used for independent work. Moreover, in the vast majority of cases, preference is given to wood. This is understandable; wooden doors have been made with their own hands since man built his first house. Wood is a soft and pliable material, which, if properly processed, can become durable and last for many years.
The first prototypes of wooden doors, as historical excavations have shown, date back to the times of Alexandria. From then to the present day, the principle of their manufacture has remained almost unchanged, despite many of the latest technologies and tools.
Despite the fact that today many newfangled materials have been developed for the manufacture of furniture, window blocks and, of course, doors, natural wood remains a constant priority. This is understandable; wood is the most environmentally friendly material. Wherever the plant grows, it will destroy harmful carcinogens rather than become saturated with them.
In addition to environmental friendliness, there are a number of other advantages, for example:
Of course, many artificial composite materials are not inferior to wood in these parameters, and in some ways they may even be superior. But the natural qualities of natural wood, which provide coolness in the heat and warmth in the cold, cannot be replaced by either laminate or plastic. And doors made from high-quality wood according to your own drawings and with your own hands will undoubtedly be the best element in the house.
But, unfortunately, like any natural material, wood has its drawbacks, which must be taken into account when making a wooden door with your own hands.
Absorption. This is the property of wood to absorb water molecules from the air, which leads over time to deformation or a change in the original dimensions of the product.
But, all these negative qualities can be solved through proper processing, pre-drying and coating with protective compounds.
The correct choice of source material is of great importance for creating a high-quality wooden door with your own hands. It is no secret that different tree species differ significantly in physical and mechanical properties.
The source material, which is widely represented in construction markets today, is divided into two main groups: coniferous and deciduous trees.
This group contains the most valuable wood, superior to the rest in hardness, with a fairly high density, original texture and pleasant natural color.
These are mainly hard, expensive varieties, such as:
More affordable species that have equally high qualities include oak, ash, and cherry.
Oak is a highly durable and very hard wood that is resistant to biological decay. And thanks to the high content of tannins, oak blanks are perfectly pickled. The material is easy to process even with hand tools and is excellent for making curved parts.
Ash can compete with oak in hardness and strength, is significantly superior in the beauty of texture, but is many times inferior in biosafety. If ash is not treated with an antiseptic, then after the first wet season it will begin to rot.
Softwood boards have always been a priority in the construction market and are still in high demand. This is due to its affordability and a large number of positive characteristics. In the overwhelming majority, blanks are made from pine, less often from spruce.
Spruce has a more capricious wood. It is highly susceptible to breakdown and biodegradation. But, on the other hand, it almost does not accumulate moisture and does not change its shape. In addition, spruce has significantly higher thermal conductivity indicators.
Analyzing all the parameters, we can say that pine is the best option for making wooden entrance doors with your own hands. If you plan to make interior doors, then it is better to give preference to hardwood.
You cannot say “good” or “bad” about a tree. With the correct selection of material, taking into account the purpose and operation, any array will be ideal. It is important to clearly know what kind of wooden door you are going to make with your own hands, and well-chosen wood will be an excellent helper for you.
The classification of doors has a rather complex structure. According to the main purpose, external and internal forms are distinguished, that is, entrance or interior doors.
According to the manufacturing technology, doors can be:
The simplest and most affordable option for how to quickly and easily make a wooden door with your own hands. The technology consists of connecting selected bars with dowels, which can be positioned depending on the imagination of the master: across, in the letter “Z”, in a herringbone pattern or in another pattern. The dowels can be made of the same wood, metal or special plastic.
Doors with simple straight bars are installed in utility rooms or as exterior doors in country houses. Using curly dowels, you can use this method to make wooden doors with your own hands in the “country” style, which can advantageously emphasize the overall theme of the kitchen or living room.
This is a more complex scheme for making a wooden door with your own hands, requiring separate construction of the frame and inserts - panels. Insert strips can be of a wide variety of shapes and materials. They are installed according to the “tenon and groove” principle.
Most often, such doors are made for interior spaces, but with desire and little effort you can make a durable entrance door. The variety of materials that can be selected for inserts allows you to make wooden doors with your own hands of the most whimsical design, completely in harmony with the design of living rooms.
The most budget-friendly option for making wooden doors with your own hands is the panel model. The principle of the device is based on covering a chipboard sheet with wooden planks, which strengthen the structure. Veneer is usually used for finishing. Such products are suitable for indoor use only.
The scheme for making wooden doors with your own hands, regardless of the type, is always the same. Small differences relate to the selection and installation of fittings, reinforcing elements and finishing touches.
Before you begin making a wooden door with your own hands, you need to make sure that the boards you purchased meet the accepted standard, do not require additional drying and do not have visible defects. Next, prepare the necessary tools. If your home kit is missing something, you need to purchase or rent it in advance.
Preparing frame parts. The measured and cut boards for the frame must be carefully sanded on the wide sides. The ends can be left untouched; they will be processed during the milling process.
Select the necessary cutters and perform the following operations:
Angular trimming of the ends of parts. The ends of all prepared boards must be cut at an angle of 45 degrees. The easiest way to do this is with a circular saw. Make sure the lengths of the vertical and horizontal parts match.
Cut the chipboard to size. This should be done according to the following scheme: door width minus board width x2 + groove depth x2. If you are not confident in your abilities, you can buy ready-made cut material.
Before installing confirmants, it is necessary to perform a test assembly. To do this, you need to stuff the finished parts onto the chipboard and check whether the structure lies evenly and whether there are any defects or gaps. Then make holes in the top and bottom of the door, and install confirmants.
The desire of every craftsman is to make wooden doors with his own hands better than factory products. Therefore, the closest attention must be paid to the decoration stage.
You can complete the finishing with veneering or lamination, highlight the beauty of the natural pattern with colorless or tinted stain, or simply paint it in a suitable color.
