Kitchen furniture is an extremely necessary and quite expensive element of the interior. You can significantly reduce costs by making your own kitchen set. Fortunately, there are no problems with purchasing accessories and materials for its production, but various projects and the design options are simply huge.
The production of a kitchen set begins with a project. The project requires the overall dimensions of the place where it will be installed. After which you can begin to select the component elements.
Fig.1.
The kitchen set consists of drawers that can have different contents, from shelves to pull-out baskets. For compartments in both the upper and lower rows, standard width sizes are established, starting from 15 cm to 100 cm, in increments of 5 cm, i.e. 15, 20, 25, 30, 35 cm, etc. You need to know them for design.
When preparing a project, you should be guided by standard sizes, because All accessories are manufactured taking them into account.
When determining the layout, it should be taken into account that standard height The bottom row of drawers is 72 cm, the top ones can be 60, 72 or 90 cm. The depth of the bottom row is 55 cm, the top row is 30 cm.
Of course, when making a kitchen set with your own hands, you can set arbitrary sizes, but then you will have to abandon ready-made kitchen components (for example, the facade), and make all the elements individually.
If standard drawers do not fill the entire space allocated for the kitchen, then in the remaining space they make either shelves custom sizes.
The corner kitchen set has a distinctive feature. A corner kitchen cabinet can have several options: straight (Fig. 2) and with an angle of 135 degrees (Fig. 3). The same feature applies to the top row (Fig. 4).
Fig.2.
Fig.3.
Fig.4.
A corner cabinet for a sink (see drawing above) is often used if the space of the room allows it; for small kitchens, a straight cabinet. Thus, a rectangular or round sink is installed in a straight line, and a corner or round one in a corner.
When preparing a kitchen furniture project, you should follow the following recommendations:
It is easiest to make a kitchen with your own hands from chipboard, since this material can be called traditional for such furniture. Laminated chipboard, abbreviated as laminated chipboard, is used with a thickness of 16 mm. All elements except the tabletop and apron are made from chipboard.
The facades of kitchen units are made from laminated chipboard, from chipboard covered with plastic (postforming technology), and from MDF.
The back wall of the cabinets is made of fiberboard or laminated fiberboard, 4.6 mm thick.
The countertop of the kitchen set is made using postforming technology. It can be 28.32 and 38(40) mm thick.
How to build a kitchen with your own hands? Three approaches can be distinguished. The first is to make all the parts yourself from laminated chipboards, the second is to make them to order, the third is to buy ready-made elements and assemble them from them kitchen furniture. Finished cabinets can be purchased at stores such as IKEA, Leroy Merlin and etc.
The most economical and moderately complex option is when you do the detailing of the kitchen cabinets yourself and all the elements are made to order, after which the assembly is done by yourself. The advantage of this method is that you can make parts to individual sizes and at the same time save a lot of money.
To order parts, you need to draw a kitchen and determine all the dimensions, as well as the need for edging material and the presence of mounting holes.
Kitchen cutting is carried out based on the following considerations. The dimensions of the side walls of the cabinets are the height and depth of the cabinet. Dimensions of the bottom and lid: width equal to the width of the cabinet minus 32 mm, height equal to its depth.
The edge is made of plastic with a thickness of 0.4 and 2 mm. It is necessary to protect the ends of the laminated chipboard from moisture and mechanical damage. It is advisable to glue it on all ends of the parts. To save money, edging tape may not be used on invisible ends.
Ready-made holes for fasteners (additive) greatly facilitate, but introduce additional costs for the manufacture of parts. If saving is not your first priority, then before cutting the kitchen you need to prepare drawings of kitchen cabinets with details.
The tabletop and façade, as well as the drawers, can be made to order or purchased ready-made.
Assembly begins with the cabinets. Their parts are connected using a confirmat (Fig. 8). Holes for it are drilled at a distance of 8 mm from the end, with a slab thickness of 16 mm. It is convenient to assemble using a special device as shown in Fig. 5. It is easy to make it from scraps with your own hands. To simplify drilling holes for confirmat, it is convenient to use a special drill (Fig. 6). The additive can be made in each part separately; for this it is convenient to use a jig (Fig. 7).
Fig.5.
Fig.6.
Fig.7.
Fig.8.
The back wall is installed on the assembled cabinets. Next, the legs are mounted. They can be decorative or adjustable plastic, then the kitchen plinth is attached to the legs. Their standard lengths are 100, 120 and 150 mm.
Fig.9.
The cabinets are installed in their places one by one and pulled together. For tightening, a special intersectional screed is used. Alternatively, you can use 30mm long self-tapping screws. They will work just as well. The caps of the screws can be hidden with a self-adhesive plug; the caps of the confirmat are also masked.
Fig. 10.
The upper cabinets are tightened after installation in place. An adjustable suspension is used to install wall cabinets. It allows you to set all elements horizontally and vertically.
Fig. 11.
The final stage of assembling the frame is installing the tabletop. The tabletop is attached to the cabinets with 30 mm long self-tapping screws.
Fig. 12.
You can install a façade, plinth, sink, etc. on the finished frame.
The facade is secured with hinges. Recesses (milling) are made on the doors for the hinge cup. Depending on its size, the diameter of the recess is different. It is advisable to order milling for hinges when cutting. It is not expensive, but it will avoid additional work, possible errors and the need to purchase a special Forstner drill.
Fig. 13.
When installing doors in corner cabinets, it is necessary to use hinges with a non-standard opening angle.
Fig. 14.
After the doors are installed, you can install the handles.
For the kitchen plinth, a piece made of chipboard or a special one can be used plastic strip. Using the latter is preferable, as it is protected from moisture and will last much longer.
The plinth strip is attached to the legs of the kitchen unit. It is advisable to recess the base into the body of the kitchen unit by 7-10 cm, so it will be more convenient to use the kitchen.
Fig. 15.
Most sink models cut into the countertop. Using the template that comes with the sink, mark the cut line. After preparing the hole, the sink is installed using special fasteners.
Fig. 16.
An apron is an integral element of any kitchen that decorates and protects the wall between the countertop and the top row of cabinets. It can be made from MDF or ceramic tiles.
An MDF apron can be purchased ready-made or made to order. It is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws, which are later hidden with corner covers.
Fig. 17.
How to make a kitchen apron with your own hands? It’s very simple to make it from ceramic tiles. However, this approach takes longer, because Installation work may take several days. At the same time, a tile apron is more durable and fundamental, which cannot but affect the design.
Fig. 18.
The final element is the wall plinth. It also has a functional purpose - it covers the junction of the apron and the kitchen unit, thereby preventing dirt and moisture from entering unprotected areas.
Lighting on a kitchen set is not only a decorative element, but also lighting working area, which directly affects fatigue, so it is important to make good and functional lighting.
Fig. 19.
As can be seen from the infographic (Fig. 19), the most functional is the lighting under the kitchen cabinets. You can make lighting for the kitchen work area from LED strip. To do this, it is glued to the bottom wall of the top row of cabinets. Kitchen countertop lighting can be done using special boxes with a diffuser for ice strips.
Fig.20.
Fig.21.
You have renovated your kitchen - yourself or with the help of designers and finishers. Now you need to equip the new interior with kitchen furniture that matches the style and meets your requirements. Some will buy a ready-made one, others will want to make or assemble a kitchen set with their own hands.
The reason could be anything - from the desire to save money to the desire to do it yourself. The main thing is that your hands grow where they need to. Hands + mastery of some programs = success of the venture. But since you found and are reading this article, it means that you are great friends with your computer. Then let's begin.
A model of future furniture can be made in two ways.
Measure your kitchen carefully– a wall along which the furniture will stand. Think about what large-sized appliances you will have installed there: Sink, refrigerator, oven, washing machine, Microwave oven, hob, hood, Dishwasher. It is advisable to already know the dimensions of the devices in order to accurately fit them into the future project.
Calculate how many and what kind of cabinets you need: wall-mounted and floor-mounted, wall-mounted and corner, with pull-out cabinets and opening doors.
Some programs (Blum Dynalog) process the finished sketch and produce a printout with fittings, components, markings and assembly diagrams. Others are only able to draw a layout with dimensions, albeit detailed, but without a cutting module. In this case, you can transfer the detailing to another program (Astra or Cutting), calculate everything and print it.
Advice. If you are new to the furniture business, you shouldn’t try to get fancy with complex shapes and fancy colors. Choose simpler prototype models. They are not difficult to cut, and they will be easier to assemble. Simple designs, mechanisms are always more reliable, as practice shows. In the future, you can either update the kitchen set or simply replace individual cabinets or just the facades.
All parts of the kitchen set are divided into four groups. These are the countertop, cabinet bodies, apron and facades.
With the finished printout, you can safely go to a hardware store to buy materials for the body, facades, shelves, guides, hinges, door handles and other accessories. Don't forget about glue, nails, dowels, screws and other fastening small things.
To decorate cabinets we buy various decor- balusters, flutes, curlicues, ornamental overlays, napkins for decoupage or stencils for painting - everything that the imagination displayed on paper suggests.
If you have a jigsaw at home, you can cut the parts yourself - if only you had the material. And you can order slices in the same hardware store , V furniture company or at the sawmill. Just be sure to number the sheets and put markings on each of them.
Advice. Manufacturers' standard cabinet sizes are multiples of 15: 30 cm, 45 cm, 60 and so on. Apparently, it’s more convenient to think this way and it’s customary in the furniture business. Furniture shops usually already have sheets of similar sizes. And if your furniture fits into these parameters, you can immediately buy the required quantity. However, you can move away from stereotypes and give your own dimensions for cutting. But then the sheets will cost a little more - be prepared for this.
To assemble cabinet furniture, there are not always enough fasteners. You need to drill holes in the walls for the choppers and insert them. Drill holes with a jig. And they screw furniture together with confirmations - they look like self-tapping screws.
The base of the furniture is usually simple and easily cut from sheets of chipboard or plywood. Plywood or fiberboard is used for the walls. Another thing is the facades. If it is glass, then it must be inserted into a wooden frame, just like a rattan facade. But both glass and wooden facade needs an edge - this is both aesthetic and practical. You can buy edges in a store or at a furniture company, where you can order them to be glued using a special lamp.
The countertop, if it is made of stone, is better to order from professionals. They will take measurements kitchen sink, hob, the required length or width and cut out all excess. If you really want to, you can handle a plastic or wooden tabletop yourself - the rule “measure 7 times, cut once” applies here. Don't forget to treat the cuts with silicone to prevent moisture from damaging the material in the future.
On the wall we mark with a pencil the places where the cabinets will stand or hang. Do not rely on the level of the floor or ceiling - they are not always level. Use a markup rule. We take into account all the nuances, right down to water pipes, gas pipes and heating systems.
We disassemble the sawn parts into cabinets and assemble them using tools, checking the diagram and using the assembly instructions. We leave hanging the facades and installing drawers and shelves for dessert. But we install the hinges and guides right away.
The cabinets are assembled. It remains to add a few nuances and put everything in its place.
We install the floor cabinets on the frame or screw the legs to them. The number of legs and their attachment locations will be given in one of the computer programs mentioned above.
We hang the finished cabinets and place them in their places. For greater stability, they can be fastened together. We decorate the facades as originally intended. Involve your household in such creativity - and the work will be carried out, and work will be more fun.
Now it’s time to install the countertop. We install a sink in the designated area and connect the plumbing. The same with the oven or stove, hob. We connect electricity and gas.
We install a cornice on top of the cabinets. It usually has a spotlight on it. You will also need lighting above the cooking area - a spotlight running along the bottom of a wall cabinet, or a fluorescent lamp screwed to the kitchen apron.
We screw it to the facades, pull-out cabinets handles, hang and insert them, install shelves and rods.
We wipe off the dust, check the lighting, connections to the pipes and enjoy our work.
What to do if the old furniture still looks decent, but does not suit the style, is out of fashion or the facades are worn out. How to update the kitchen set in this case?
If the furniture is suitable in size, spaciousness, and design, making a new set will not be so difficult. But kitchen cabinets still have to take it apart. Remember, or better yet, mark which side parts, back wall, front belong to a particular cabinet. For example: Z1, BP1, BL1, F1. This will make it easier to assemble the constructor later.
Remove all fasteners, hinges, handles - they need to be replaced with new ones. Take an electric planer or sandpaper and sand all surfaces, wash and dry them. You may have to treat them with antifungal agents and apply a primer.
We measure the facades and make new ones in their likeness. If your doors are in good condition, then they need to be cleaned, primed and decorated according to the style of the kitchen. A budget option- This self-adhesive film(it comes in different textures and colors). A more expensive option is to laminate the facade in the desired color. We can advise needlewomen to paint and decorate or decorate the doors in the same style.
We buy mounting hardware and reassemble kitchen cabinets and cabinets. We drill, where necessary, recesses for equipment, sockets, water supply or gas pipes. We install a cornice with lighting on top. Below is the base. We screw the legs. We level it on the floor or on the wall. We install the sink, stove, taps, countertop. The final stage is doors and shelves.
To assemble a kitchen set from scratch or update an existing one, the tools that every owner has may not be enough. Check the list.
Choose clothes for work and glasses to protect your eyes. Tools such as a plane, jigsaw, range finder, and jig are not needed in everyday life, so you can rent them at a power tools store.
It may be difficult for you to decide to make a kitchen set with your own hands - you are not a professional. It is even likely that the result will somewhat disappoint you - after all, it was made at home, and not in a furniture workshop, where extra sheets of chipboard, workbenches, tools, varnishes and other materials are always at hand. But if you don’t rush, take accurate measurements of the kitchen and furniture, and carefully assemble everything, then your household and your guests will be surprised by the result.
Do you know why custom-made furniture is so expensive? Not because it is difficult to transport, assemble and install. This is just the simplest and most unskilled job. A neighbor can help with assembling the kitchen unit.
The most expensive thing in furniture production is a project that takes into account kitchen measurements, angle degrees, design and features of cabinets. But you can already save on this by constructing a sketch and drawing in one of the computer programs or with pencil on paper.
And according to the project (you don’t even need to calculate anything, the program will do everything) materials are prepared. And if you choose standard sizes, then purchasing them should not be a problem at all.
Modern life makes demands on housing, among which there is not only beauty, but also functionality. Every person knows that multifunctional equipment has high cost, as well as an aesthetically furnished kitchen. Modern kitchen set good quality will cost a hefty sum. Despite the fact that the concept of “inexpensive” has different limits for each person, a family with an average income will not be able to afford such a purchase. For this reason, many families try to make kitchen furniture with their own hands. From this article you will learn how to assemble a kitchen set with your own hands and what you will need for this.
To make your own furniture, you don’t have to be a carpenter or joiner. All you need is desire and availability of free time, as well as tools. When creating furniture with your own hands, you will receive the following advantages:
There are several ways in which you can implement your plans. For example, you can contact a specialized company that will provide you with cutting and edging services, or you can buy ready-made components. The last option is the simplest. However, in in this case your set will have standard sizes. There is a third option, which involves making full-fledged kitchen furniture yourself.
You can make a homemade kitchen table using available materials. Initially, you need to decide on the dimensions, and how to prepare a sketch in any other work. You can draw a sketch from scratch yourself or use ready-made option. You can take the drawing as a basis or add the necessary details.
With your own hands you can create not only a kitchen set, but also a transforming table, a children's high chair for the kitchen, or furniture for the garden. You can read the instructions for making furniture in more detail below.
First of all, you should decide on the material from which you will make the furniture. IN modern world There are many solutions, and each product has its own features and advantages.
As a rule, wood is the basis of any furniture. Many people use it in their chipboard work European production, because it has better characteristics compared to Russian products. If you prefer MDF, remember that it requires further painting.
MDF is more expensive than chipboard and better in quality. This material can be used to create decorative elements, and it is also convenient for molding. In some cases, MDF is superior to natural wood in density, which is why it is in demand on the Russian market.
If you are a supporter of natural and healthy materials, you can make a kitchen set from wood. Remember that such furniture will be sensitive to changes in temperature and humidity. Each workpiece will need to be treated with a special impregnation and antiseptic.
Table tops are made of chipboard, MDF and natural wood. The main load falls on this part, so many experts advise using natural or fake diamond.
Some elements, such as the bottom of the drawers, can be made from plywood, as well as the side parts.
Furniture panels have gained popularity today. They are a wooden product made in the form of a shield. Such a shield is glued together from several parts using special glue. Several wood species can act as a material:
Kitchen set from furniture board more convenient because there is a wide selection of standard sizes.
OSB boards Suitable as decoration, for example for covering an apron area, or for creating an original shelf. They are also used to make openwork cabinets and bookshelves in other rooms.
You can also make kitchen furniture from plasterboard. The advantages of this material include low cost and availability, along with ease of use. GKL sheets can accept any fastening, even glue. All you need to do is calculate the load. Each product should be decorated with finishing materials, because in its original form gypsum board is not attractive.
Brick kitchen furniture deserves special attention. This style is called “walled”. He is not very popular, but he still has fans. Brick furniture looks impressive in the room and gives it solidity. This material will look best on large kitchen, since it will be difficult to place full-fledged cabinets in a small space.
For self-made furniture you will need to prepare the following tools:
Don't forget about furniture hinges, confirmants, self-tapping screws, dowels, drills, pencil and tape measure.
Preparing all the necessary components will help you quickly complete the task and not be distracted by shopping trips.
Using these instructions, you will be able to assemble the kitchen set yourself and avoid possible mistakes that may occur during the work process:
Most people will agree that only the most patient person can restore old furniture, since this process is comparable to real art. Not every person will like to work with a headset, gradually restoring the previous appearance of the products.
To make a decent product out of old furniture, you will need to carry out the following activities to create a new design:
Most challenging task is the restoration of the table, or rather the alteration of its legs. To do this, you will need to remove the old veneer and restore its original shape using liquid wood.
Sections of components must be edged in advance. They are first sanded using sandpaper. After this, the edge tape is applied to the cut site and glued using a hot iron or a hair dryer.
If you are using regular iron, then when gluing it is necessary to attach a piece of thin material to the edge.
Trim the edges when cool. This technique can make the furniture attractive and keep it from swelling under high humidity.
The next step is to mark and drill holes for mounting and shelf holders. Do not rush to work with the drill, because a mistake will lead to a through hole.
The cabinets are assembled like a box. Vertical bars should be attached to the lower horizontal surface. side walls. The lid is screwed on last.
Roller guides must be installed using building level. They should be positioned horizontally and parallel to each other. Otherwise, the boxes cannot be placed in the designated space.
The legs are installed on a fully assembled and inverted cabinet. The front part needs to be installed last, after which they are hinged to the side wall.
To update your interior, you can use simple decorating techniques:
Such decorative elements can give furniture or individual elements bright accent. Interesting stickers are sold in various stores or you can cut them yourself from self-adhesive film. A decorated area above the table, on the apron area or above the work surface will add style to the kitchen interior.
For small rooms, you should select decorations with small and elegant elements, and for large or empty walls large parts should be purchased.
Stencil painting looks very stylish on kitchen furniture. You can make a pattern from thick cardboard or plastic and create an original ornament. Artistic painting will look very stylish.
The following items will look great in the kitchen interior:
If your kitchen furniture differs from the beautiful and fashionable interiors, do not be upset. With help creative ideas, which you can implement with your own hands, a standard set will turn into a real work of art.
How to decorate furniture:
It’s interesting that a person who has money did everything with his own hands..
And I got a wonderful result...
This kitchen was not made by a professional furniture maker or cabinet maker,
Everything about Blum products is great. Use the proprietary Blum Dynalog program - it will do everything for you and, as a result, you will receive drawings with all the markings necessary for installing the fittings:
I will tell you the design details below, using photographs of finished products as an example.
Purchase of kitchen appliances
I recommend not leaving this stage until last. At a minimum, it is advisable, if not to buy, then at least clearly decide what you will buy later and download all the documentation for these products. Oven, stove, sink - although they are made according to some kitchen standards, they may have design features. Making a kitchen without even imagining what equipment you will put there is wrong, you will suffer. For example, I didn’t take everything into account with the oven - that’s why instead of the front under the oven, you still see a hole (you need to mill the front a little until you get the hang of it).
I bought a Gorenje oven and induction hob, an Eleyus hood, a Franke Java sink, and a faucet with a Grohe Blue filtration system (the first in Ukraine in this version, by the way). $3200
Order firewood(chipboard, fibreboard, facades)
Previously, I sincerely believed that furniture production required large workshops, expensive machines, and dozens of staff. Of course, this happens, but many people also work in garages. In order to produce furniture, you do not need to saw chipboard and make facades - this is exactly what dozens of people do in large workshops on expensive machines. That's where we go.
The result of the design should be an Excel file containing a list of all the panels we need. Like this:
Regarding slab materials, my choice was as follows:
Egger Cappuccino 18mm chipboard as cabinet material
Egger Platinum White 16mm chipboard as material for drawers
Egger fibreboard for cabinet back walls
Painted MDF as facades
Now look at the nuance. The company we are going to has a warehouse chipboard program- these are the thicknesses and colors that they keep in stock at all times large quantities. If the chipboard you need is present in the warehouse program - everything is ok, you will pay for that much square meters, as much as you need. But if it’s not included, you’ll have to buy chipboard sheets. One sheet, in the case of Egger chipboard, is 5.8 sq.m. And if you need 6.3 sq.m. you will still have to buy two sheets.
Companies engaged in cutting and edging chipboards and producing facades can today be found in almost any regional center of the country. You give them drawings and money. They give you all your firewood, packaged and delivered to your apartment.
Cutting and edging chipboard, fiberboard, facades, delivery - all this cost me $650.
Order accessories(handles, legs, tandem boxes, etc.)
No problem. But it’s better not to scour all sorts of Leroy Marlens, since they mostly present an unworthy mass market. It's better to find a decent supplier company furniture fittings with a large assortment and buy everything there.
I bought:
12 Blum Tandembox Intivo Full Extension Drawer Sets
2 hinges + bluemotion for the door under the washbasin
1 pull-out grid with closer for the oven
All this cost $1200
Purchasing tools
In general, any handy guy already has some tools.
I had to buy a Makita screwdriver, a Bosch jigsaw, clamps and a Wolfcraft attachment.
I’ll warn you right away - there’s nothing to do in assembling furniture without a screwdriver. There is an absolutely huge number of screws. And Chinese disposable crafts for 40 bucks will not help you. A screwdriver is for a man what a dildo is for a woman. Don't skimp. Treat yourself. It will come in handy.
So, at the beginning of the process we have:
First of all, let's take the firewood to the balcony and sort it into pedestals. Fortunately, each element has a sticker corresponding to the part number in the above list of parts:
Well, let's start assembling. Almost all Italian cabinet furniture is assembled using dowels (chops) - an advantage this method The disadvantage is that no parts of the fasteners come out, the disadvantage is that furniture assembled on dowels is not dismountable. Furniture makers prefer confirmat for such purposes - it is much less demanding in terms of tolerances.
The connection on the dowels requires an accuracy of 0.5 millimeters in fitting the mating holes. This result can be achieved without using special tool, but with huge hemorrhoids. Therefore, the following tool was purchased:
Drill the first holes in the side of the cabinet:
So, our task is to assemble the first cabinet and understand whether our arms grow from our ass, or from our shoulders.
We take the sidewall and make holes that will be connected to the bottom with dowels. Pay attention to the drill depth limiter on the drill. I hope there is no need to explain why it is needed. Buzzing:
Here's what we got:
The holes on the sides are 40 mm. from the edges, central in the middle. The width of the sidewall (this matters, I’ll tell you later) is 560 mm. The additive operates in both drilling and copying modes. Copy to the second side. This is the principle of operation of the filler for drilling counter holes, I show it using the example of a drawer:
Let me remind you that when connecting with dowels, the accuracy of drilling the counter holes is important (plus or minus half a millimeter). With these tools, I never had a problem with this - the parts fit into each other (moaning) with little effort. This device costs nothing - 40 bucks. It will save you a lot of time - just for fun, I tried to make manual markings on test pieces of chipboard - this is many times more time-consuming and much more likely to make an error.
Here is the bottom of the box with counter holes already drilled for the sides:
We drilled 20 holes and voila, our hands are not growing out of our ass:
Okay, let's move on. Now we need to equip the cabinet with closers, legs and a back wall made of fiberboard.
There is nothing complicated in installing door closers - everything is done in the same Blum Dynalog program, you get the exact dimensions of the points where the guides will be attached. There is one rule here - measure seven times, cut once:
Simple as two and two. If you make a mistake within 3 millimeters, everything will still work perfectly. This is a wonderful technique.
Mounting the legs is also not difficult. The main thing is to set yourself a standard for their location and follow it on all cabinets:
Another cabinet (the widest, 80 cm) is ready. It already has guides and legs.
There is absolutely no need to worry about some flimsiness of the product - as soon as the back wall is mounted, the cabinet will be filled with pleasant strength. Shown here First stage fastening the backdrop - the bottom is secured with two screws on the sides, the diagonals and corners are measured, the top is secured with a clamp to the frame. Now you can safely peel off the screws (after pre-drilling with a two-mm drill):
Well, there seems to be progress already:
We are preparing the facades. On the left on the facade there is a drilling jig (the same Wolfcraft), to the right there is a manual countersink:
This is where the jigsaw came into play - I used it to saw holes for the sockets, after which I asked for silicone to seal the open cut. Well, I hung up the filter control unit and the filter holder itself:
When all the cabinets were ready, it was time to reunite them. At this stage, it is important to adjust the legs to bring them level - that is, the top of the cabinets should lie in the same plane. We clamp the cabinets together with clamps, and be sure to make a “lining” - wooden block, into which the drill will come out. If this is not done, there will be serious chips at the outlet hole.
I brought a tabletop, Luxeform Boston 38 mm. I asked to make cutouts, they did it, but look how original (did I place the commas correctly?):
In principle, they are right. Transporting a massive table with a full cutout is a risk – it may break. I had to work with a jigsaw. The cut must be siliconized - the open end of the chipboard will quickly swell if this is not done. Well, here you can see how the issue was resolved obtuse angle- everything is quite simply leveled out. Naturally, I first made a drawing with geometry calculations.
Takes ~5 minutes to read
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These funds can be spent on more expensive and beautiful facades. By refusing the help of specialists, you can assemble a set that best suits the owner’s wishes.
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Before you start designing a headset, you should decide how it will fit into the general layout room interior. The use of simple modular elements will solve both issues of functionality and ease of assembly and operation. The choice of layout also depends on the personal preferences of the assembler. There are the following main types of kitchen sets according to the design scheme:
When choosing a kitchen layout option, there are some features to consider. They are associated with the relative position of its various modules. Below is a list of key rules.
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The latter is especially important in corner layouts. They should not contain a sink and a gas stove immediately on both sides of the corner cabinet. There is always a chance that the housewife will pour water on the burning gas burner or put a towel on it.
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Development of circuits is a very important and difficult part when assembling a kitchen set. It can be divided into several key stages:
After completing these steps, you can begin assembly.
Most of load-bearing elements will be hidden behind the facades and under the countertop. The cheapest and most common today is laminated chipboard (laminated chipboard). It goes very well with any facade materials. At the same time, there is a huge selection of decorative coatings. Maximum length cannot exceed 3.5 m. This length is quite sufficient for the manufacture of any modules.
The thickness of the laminated chipboard is selected as follows:
Tabletops can be made from laminated chipboard with a thickness of 24–32 mm. If you have enough money, you can use more expensive materials: artificial stone, acrylic, glass, natural stone. There are even styling options decorative tiles to the surface of its functional zones.
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The face of the kitchen set is the facades. Their main function is aesthetics. The most common facade material today is MDF. Made from environmentally friendly pure material, they are covered with various decorative films, which form color and texture. There is no need to skimp on this material. There is nothing wrong if its share of the entire budget is more than half of the total amount.
If the facades perform a decorative function, then the fittings mainly perform a functional one. The exception is handles - they should look beautiful. Without functional elements all the furniture will be just a set of empty boxes in which it will be difficult to find the right thing.
IN kitchen wall everything is located in two rows:
Moreover, the construction has a number of features depending on where they are located.
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Along the straight sections of the kitchen are the simplest design modules: cabinets and cabinets. The drawing for a standard cabinet starts with two side boards. They are made from 16 mm laminated chipboard. They are located vertically. Then the horizontal boards are placed end-to-end between the vertical ones. The result is a cabinet-box. The thickness of the material is taken the same. In hinged ones, the load-bearing parts are the side walls. The elements of the fastening system are attached to them.
The cabinet is made differently. First, the bottom board is taken - 18 mm chipboard. Two side ones, 16 mm thick, are placed on it. On top, between the side elements, guide strips are placed. They don't even need to be laminated on all sides. A tabletop will subsequently be attached to them, which will hide the slats. At the bottom cabinet, the entire load falls on the bottom. Since the finishing cover (tabletop) is not immediately attached, only stiffeners are installed.
The back wall, made of fiberboard 4 mm thick, is placed in the same way for the cabinet and cabinet. This thickness should not be neglected at the design stage. All adjacent modules are connected to each other with special ties. They cannot be covered with shelves. Installation of fastening clamps will require drilling holes with a diameter of 6-8 mm.
All pull-out components, such as drawers, are designed with extra thickness of the fittings. For example, if the roller guides have a thickness of 22 mm, and the side walls are 16 mm each, then for the width of the box the planned dimensions are taken minus the sum: 16+22+22+16 mm. They go in sequence: wall, guide, drawer, guide and wall.
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In any kitchen you will definitely find such interior elements as pipes, protrusions for the air duct, sloping walls, etc. Cabinets and cabinets in this case will play not so much the function of storing things as masking the shortcomings of the interior.
Hiding a niche is quite simple. To do this, you simply need to make the depth of the cabinet larger by the amount of the protrusion. And the protrusions will already be cut out of the furniture elements, and “eat up” some of them usable space. The shelves can also be cut to size.
Pipes inside cabinets will require appropriate recessing. If part of the pipe runs over the apron, you can make an additional box to match the color of the apron or countertop. There are cases when sewer pipes protrude more than 30 cm from the wall. You can hide them with a beveled product. One side of which has a wall with a standard depth of 30 cm, the second - an amount sufficient to mask the pipes, for example, 50.
Corner cabinets and cabinets in the inner curve of the kitchen are the most difficult to design. It is not very noticeable in the drawing that opening doors will block access to neighboring ones. This creates a huge space, the far corners of which are difficult to get to. Most often, a sink, instantaneous water heater and a trash bin are located in the corner cabinet. The tabletop is made with a small margin in depth so that it protrudes 2-3 cm and hides the door.
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A corner cabinet can mask the water supply communications system, which is most often located in the corner. This piece of furniture must be made with a 45° cut. It should be done in such a way that the horizontal partitions are located inside the vertical ones. If the confusion of this sequence is excusable, then the front door simply will not fall into place.
Despite its simplicity, façade elements require drawings that indicate dimensions. Door leaves can be either overhead or internal. The way they are placed depends entirely on the choice of hinges. Their width should be made with a margin of 4-5 mm on each side. For example, with a cabinet width of 0.6 m, the horizontal dimensions of the doors are 29.2 centimeters each.
Another difficult moment that everyone has facade structures: special drink for loop dies. It is usually done with special cutters. The drilling depth of the recesses for some hinges may differ from the standard ones. The hinges can be adjusted in depth. The placement of the dies may vary by 2-6 mm from the edge of the door.
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When taking measurements, it is necessary to take into account a number of features. Despite the fact that you want to fill the entire space of the room along the wall as much as possible, some areas will remain blind. First of all, this concerns the base. A gap of 10-15 cm under the ceiling does nothing. If there is a hood right under the ceiling, then the boundary should be drawn along its lower level. With a lower vent position, the ducts are routed into the upper cabinets, resulting in a loss of interior space.
The bottom step from the floor is 7-10 cm. Most kitchen cabinets are placed on special legs that allow you to change their height. They can withstand loads of up to 200-300 kg per element. The number of legs must be taken based on the design weight of the cabinet with the things stored in it. When passing through the heating system pipes, a margin of 5-10 cm should be provided. It would be better to hang a curtain in this place. This will allow you to hide the pipes while maintaining easy access to them.
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The tabletop can fit closely to the rest of the walls. The lower cabinets themselves will stand 100 mm from the wall, allowing communication elements to be installed behind them: gas hoses, water connections, sewer pipes. Before installation, it is better to lay out the apron on the wall. Made from tiles, it will take an additional 10-15 mm. If it is absent, this margin should be taken into account when designing.
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A schematic drawing of kitchen furniture is drawn up at this stage. All cabinets in the upper row and cabinets in the lower row should be arranged in such a way that it is convenient to work with them later. You should be very careful about the location of such important elements kitchens such as sink, hob and refrigerator. It is between them that the owner will have to run the most. When arranging them, the rule of the functional triangle is used.
There is a stove in the center. It is advisable to place it immediately under the air duct. This will allow you to fix the hood in the same place and avoid placing long and bulky boxes. People often work at the stove with two hands.
They also work at the sink with both hands. It should be located on one side of the stove, for example, on the right. The refrigerator should be located on the other side. In our case - on the left. It is better to make the distance between the sink and the stove no more than 1.5 m. It is better to place the refrigerator at a shorter distance, for example, 1.2 m. It will be convenient to organize a cutting table in the area between the refrigerator and the stove. This will save effort when removing food before slicing.
In addition to the horizontal layout, ergonomic rules should be taken into account when removing upper cabinets. They should be positioned in such a way that the lower edge is at the level of the hostess's chest. The top shelf should be accessible from the floor at arm's length. When choosing the height of the cabinets for the ceiling, the top shelf can only be reached from a stool.
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When designing the sizes of cabinets and cabinets, you should take into account several rules for choosing sizes, which have already become a standard:
Regarding the last size, it should be taken into account that with a standard swing door opening, with a leaf width of 40 cm, the structure will sag significantly. If you make a cabinet with two doors more than 80 cm wide, then there will be overpressure on the hinges. Additional reinforcement with 3 or 4 loops will look unsightly and take up a lot of space inside.
It will look beautiful homemade kitchen with a mezzanine board located under the plinth. In this case, you can leave a distance between it and the row of cabinets. Equipped lighting fixtures, it will perform not only a decorative function, but will also become a lighting device.
Since the cabinets are not mounted close to the wall, their depth is chosen to be only 45-50 cm. But in this case, the facades will be located at a distance of 60 cm (plus the thickness of the facade) from the wall. This is exactly the width of standard countertops.
