Stairs.  Entry group.  Materials.  Doors.  Locks.  Design

Stairs. Entry group. Materials. Doors. Locks. Design

» How to install vinyl siding. Step-by-step instructions for covering your house with siding yourself, photos and videos. Vertical cladding scheme

How to install vinyl siding. Step-by-step instructions for covering your house with siding yourself, photos and videos. Vertical cladding scheme

– this is modern facing material for finishing buildings with a rich assortment color range and textures.

It performs several main functions:

  1. Decorative, as it has an impeccable appearance due to the variety of textures and shades.
  2. Protective: from the influence of various weather phenomena and the external environment.
  3. Insulation: if there thermal insulation material between frame slats.

Siding panels are made from various materials: wood, steel, cement, ceramics, vinyl.

Vinyl siding has gained particular popularity in construction market, thanks to the low price, durability, decorative properties and quality characteristics:

  1. Frost-resistant.
  2. Does not require special care.
  3. Wear-resistant and durable.
  4. Easy to install.
  5. Easy to transport thanks to its small size and weight.
  6. Environmentally friendly and non-toxic.
  7. Does not corrode.
  8. UV resistant.

The undoubted advantage of siding is that you can use it for cladding a house without inviting specialists, with your own hands.

How to attach?


Fastening the panels is recommended with galvanized or aluminum nails, staples to wood, but practitioners often use self-tapping screws, which are convenient for working at heights using a screwdriver and a magnetic attachment. The main thing is resistance to corrosion, otherwise over time the appearance will be spoiled by rusty spots.

The procedure for installing the panels is as follows:

  1. Base covering and drainage installation. The house may have a base in the same plane with the wall or protruding. For the second option, you need a rain drain, which can be made from a siding drain strip, a galvanized corner or a metal-plastic corner. First, the corner is processed, the joint is sealed with silicone. A flashing is installed from the corners, with the joint of the planks overlapping. Below, under the ebb, a rigid rail is attached along the entire length of the base. Using a level, a strictly horizontal line is checked. It is recommended to do low tide around the entire perimeter of the house.
  2. Setting up a starting profile. The starting panel at the bottom of the plinth is mandatory, since the rigidity and appearance of the entire cladding structure depend on it. First, you need to mark the lower level of the sheathing in one of the corners. Then drive a nail 4 cm higher. The same is done in the other corner of the wall. A line is drawn that is drawn along the perimeter around the house with similar markings. The edges of the nail strips are marked on the sheathing. The upper edge of the starting profile is installed along the marking line. The starting line must be strictly horizontal. Further, it will be hidden by subsequent panels.
  3. At the interface of the plinth and the main facade, it is possible to install a border, which will become the basis of the next row.
  4. Installation of corner panels. Corner profiles are attached immediately after completing the starting line. The panels are overlapped to protect the joint from water ingress. It is necessary to ensure that the joint is at the same level in all corners. The main fastening step is 2-2.5 cm. Fastenings are made in the center of the holes and are not recessed to the limit.
  5. Decoration of door and window openings. Special window J-profiles with a shelf are used for finishing slopes. Finishing profiles are attached around the perimeter. In deep niches, conventional cladding using corner profile. Under the window opening, row panels are cut to the width of the window, taking into account the required gap.
  6. Installation of facade elements. Row panels are attached from the starting strip. Don't forget about the gaps on both sides of the profile. Every third row is recommended to be checked with a level for horizontalness.
  7. Roof overhangs and gable. For finishing with perforation. This allows the roof to be ventilated. The soffits are fastened every 30 cm. In the design of the pediment, a J-profile or corner profile is used.
  8. Joining siding. The service life and appearance of the building depend on correct docking. Please note:
    • General original rule: join the horizontal position of the siding from bottom to top, and the vertical position from the corner or midline of the wall.
    • When temperature changes, the deformation occurs not in the width, but in the length of the panels. Therefore, play at the joints is required.
    • When installing, do not put pressure on the profile, do not stretch, do not allow rigid joining.
    • The profile is fixed from the middle of the bar to the edges when mounted horizontally, from top to bottom when mounted vertically.


Despite the general rules and procedures, each type of siding has some of its own characteristics:

  1. On vinyl siding, the largest thermal expansion: one panel, 3 m in size, changes length by 10-12 mm with temperature changes. Metal siding is not subject to deformation.
  2. When cutting metal siding Strong heating should not be allowed, as the polymer layer along the edge is destroyed, and over time rust will appear there.
  3. On cold days, vinyl panels should not be cut with a knife or scissors - there will be cracks along the cut line.
  4. Fastening need to be done on metal sheathing, since wooden guides near the ground will quickly become unusable.

Sheathing components and surface preparation

Main components include:

  1. Start profile. In order to give rigidity to the bottom row, not a vinyl, but a steel panel is attached. Placed at the very bottom of the trim so as to remain hidden. The starting panel can be cut down, leaving the part with perforations and a receiving lock.
  2. J-profile. It is used to decorate windows and doorways, covers the side edges of panels on the facade, and can be used as a finishing profile at the junction of angles other than 90 0 .
  3. Corner profile. Designed for joining panels at both external and internal corners.
  4. H-panels. They serve as a connection if the length of the sheet does not allow covering the wall completely. It is possible to connect two J-profiles.
  5. Finish panels. They are used to complete the cladding of building walls. Cover the last siding profiles.
  6. Soffit panels. Serve for decorative finishing of cornices, fastened using a J-profile.

Additionally, you will need ventilation vents and other possible accessories made of the same material as.

Surface preparation includes the following necessary work:

  1. Weed removal, dirt, etc.
  2. Dismantling decorative ornaments , platbands, window sills, shutters, etc.
  3. Wooden walls check for the presence of rotten elements, remove and treat with an antiseptic.
  4. Treat with sealant places where moisture can penetrate: cracks, cracks, pipe insertions, etc.

In order to create thermal insulation and reduce the load on the walls, the sheathing is fastened to the prepared sheathing. It is impossible to mount the profile on walls, even fairly smooth ones.

Installation of sheathing


Installation of wooden sheathing

If the new wooden walls are perfectly smooth, no lathing is done. But this happens very rarely. For stone and block surfaces, sheathing is required. Its installation is necessary to ensure support of the siding in one plane.

The sheathing frame maintains free space between the wall and the sheathing, which allows it to retain heat in winter and protect it from overheating in summer.

The material for the sheathing is selected depending on the type of surface:

  1. On wooden wallswooden beams.
  2. On stone walls– wooden beams, PVC slats or galvanized profile.
  3. On brick and concrete walls – galvanized profile.

The procedure for making the sheathing is as follows:

  1. Using a level and tape measure you need to draw straight lines around the perimeter of the wall until you get a closed contour.
  2. Adhering to the wall starting from the corners, vertical guides are attached. If necessary, pieces of wood or foam can be used for compaction. The installation step is 30-45 cm.
  3. Guides, you need to add in places of additional load on the panels, around windows and doors.
  1. Do not connect vertical guides horizontal slats to maintain ventilation under the siding.
  2. Dry the wooden sheathing well To avoid warping, treat with a fire retardant and antiseptic.
  3. Use stainless nails.

At the same time, the building can be insulated with polystyrene foam, glass wool or polyethylene, provided that the ventilation space is preserved. Therefore, the thickness of the timber or sheathing slats should be greater than the insulation layer. Do not allow moisture to accumulate behind the siding panels to prevent mold or mildew from developing.


  1. Do not cut a large volume of profile, based on preliminary calculations. Errors may occur. Therefore, it is better to prepare the material in parts, for each section separately.
  2. Do not drive nails through the siding panel or screw in self-tapping screws. Use only designated holes.
  3. In panel fastening, use nylon washers - they will provide resistance in strong winds.

Finishing with siding is the second life of a house, which has retained its strength and received a new aesthetic appearance.

Siding is no longer an innovation. We are used to using different types of this material, it is found both on facades and in the interior, in buildings of all purposes.

How to attach siding to create flat surface, decorating the facade is a question that concerns many individual developers.

Having heard that siding was being used for the first time in America, a Russian carpenter a couple of centuries ago simply threw up his hands. What siding? Look at the Russian North: half of the churches are paneled, and residential buildings“naughty” - sheathed with thin wooden planks from different angles - protection from bad weather, concern for durability. Once again “ours” comes to us from the West under a new name. The historical excursion is over.

What is modern siding, what types exist, how to properly attach siding to the wall, and how to fix it?

Today this type finishing panels are released from the most different materials:

  • Vinyl;
  • Acrylic;
  • Fiber cement;
  • Steel;
  • Aluminum;
  • Wood.

Most often used vinyl siding– very light, easy to install, durable, attractive at low price. Negative characteristics include fragility: it is pressed and breaks with an accidental strong impact.

Acrylic siding is stronger than vinyl, more resistant to low temperatures and UV radiation.

Fiber cement is noticeably heavier, but its strength is significantly higher than the previous ones. It is durable, resistant to temperature fluctuations, and has many different designs that imitate natural materials.

Two types of metal siding are produced from galvanized steel sheet painted according to RAL:

  1. Slat siding is a durable material that allows you to diversify the color scheme of the facade and protect the wall from negative natural factors.
  2. Block house - imitating a log wall. This type of finishing positive qualities steel slats, gives the wall the aesthetics of a house made of rounded logs.

Aluminum is much lighter than steel, reduces the load on walls and foundations, is durable, but not resistant to mechanical damage.

Wooden siding is a classic of the genre, but to maintain the finish in working order it requires the renewal of fireproof and antiseptic impregnation at intervals of 3–5 years, depending on the composition used.

Siding is produced with the most different designs surfaces, it can imitate rubble and brickwork, bark beetle plaster, can be plain painted and with a perforated surface. Individual developers in most cases choose vinyl: the siding can be attached to any wall, they are attracted low price material and the possibility of mounting on wooden guides.

Before installation

All types of panels perform two functions:

  1. Aesthetic - they decorate the facade.
  2. Utilitarian - protect the facade from bad weather.

The panels are also mounted according to the same principle: special combs are installed on the guides, and the panels are placed on them. The layout of the panels can be varied: horizontal, vertical, at an angle. What to attach the siding to? Two options: special fasteners (most often used for metal and fiber cement) or wooden beams.

Like any other work in building a house, it requires accuracy, but is quite accessible to a beginner. To obtain a high-quality, smooth cladding surface, it is necessary to follow the rules, if not followed, there will be no one to blame for poor quality work:

  1. Before installation, prepare the wall - clean it from dirt, repair the plaster if necessary, level the surface, dismantle sills and aprons.
  2. When - treat the walls with fungicidal and fire-retardant compounds.
  3. Check the tightness of the connections - window and door filling, input-output communications.
  4. Install the guides strictly vertically, aligning the front using spacers or special proprietary fasteners.
  5. Maintain tolerances on the starting and ending strips within the openings.

IMPORTANT: if necessary, insulate the house and perform cladding possible options actions:

  1. Combining processes, in this case we get a “ventilated facade” system.
  2. With simultaneous insulation, the guide bars of the insulation and cladding system are attached in parallel.
  3. Division of work, installation of siding on an insulated surface.

In the first case, it is necessary to use special fasteners and slab fiber insulation with a laminated surface or geotextiles; the cladding must be mounted at a distance of at least 40 mm from the insulation.

In the second case, it is possible to use polystyrene foam boards and “wet plaster”.

It is preferable to carry out the work in the third way, the cladding is attached to an already leveled surface.

It would be useful to clear the space of vegetation and debris at a distance of up to 50 cm from the wall, and when finishing a house with a height of 2 or more floors, construct scaffolding that can be rented.

Required materials and tools

Having chosen the type of plank, we purchase the materials necessary for the work:

  • starting, finishing, corner planks;
  • trims for framing window and door openings;
  • joint strips masking the vertical seam between the slats;
  • soffits located under the roof overhang;
  • timber for sheathing.

Tools required:

  • Saw (jigsaw or grinder).
  • Drill, screwdriver.
  • Hammer.
  • Roulette, building level.
  • Pliers.
  • Step ladder.

Desirable protective equipment: glasses, respirator, gloves. Having prepared the scope of work, we proceed to installation.

Installation

The work begins with the implementation of timber sheathing minimum cross-section 20 x 40 mm. The timber must be dried to 15-22% humidity, impregnated with fungicide and antipyrine.

When the siding is laid out horizontally, we fasten the timber vertically, and when the slats are laid out vertically - horizontally with a pitch of no more than 600 mm. We check the vertical with a plumb line. Be sure to install bars along the edges of window and door openings.

To fasten timber to wooden walls, we use nails or self-tapping screws; when fastening to an insulated wall, dowels are used using screws with a length exceeding the thickness of the insulation layer plus the thickness of the timber by 50 mm. Vinyl siding must be secured to the timber using galvanized self-tapping screws.

IMPORTANT: we take into account seasonal temperature expansion - when fastening, we do not tighten the screws tightly; for additional elements we make a gap of 4–5 mm, in winter – 7–9 mm.

  1. The bottom one is attached first horizontal beam along the perimeter of the building, the second is the upper cornice, then the vertical rows starting from the corner of the house.
  2. The next stage is the installation of the starting J-shaped strip, which we attach 4 cm above the intended level of the cladding, with a gap of 6 mm from the edge of the corner bar and with an overlap of the planks on each other of 12 mm.
  3. Next are the corner and connecting profiles, which we cut from the bottom and top to the middle of the first mounting hole in the plank. We measure and install the joint strips depending on the length of the main slats and the presence of openings in the wall.
  4. We install the second siding panel, fixing it in the recess of the starting strip, inserting it into the groove of the corner and joining profile.
  5. We repeat the operation on all facades.
  6. We install the final profile - soffit.

In the video you will see how sidin is installed in an overlapping manner on a wooden frame.

Properly installed siding will last for many years, decorating the house and delighting the owners. And the question: is siding a forced decision? - will not arise. Siding is a hit of facade design!

In a private home there is always something to repair, for this reason it is better to have your own tool. If you don’t have the tool, you can buy it before finishing the house with siding. Believe me, it will not gather dust idle after laying the siding with your own hands is finished. So, to carry out the work you will need to purchase:

  • A screwdriver is the main tool, which is simply impossible to do without, since it is with the help of it that most work is carried out. For example, the self-tapping screws for fastening metal hangers are tightened, the profiles and the siding panels themselves are fastened;
  • The building level is necessary for leveling frame elements and siding panels. You can use either a regular building level or a more expensive laser level;

Tip: when working with metal frame siding, it is convenient to use a regular building level, which is additionally equipped with magnets. Using magnets, the level can be installed on the profile and not held, this greatly facilitates the work of leveling the subsystem.

  • Drill with impact drilling function or hammer drill. The tool is necessary if you plan to decorate with siding a house whose walls are made of brick or concrete. Additionally, you will need to have a drill or drill, the diameter of which will correspond to the diameter of the dowels used;
  • Metal scissors. The tool is simply necessary, because when assembling the frame, you will need to trim the metal profile, and this cannot be done without scissors;
  • Roulette. To carry out siding installation work, it is convenient to use a tape measure with a magnetic tip;
  • Angle grinder (Bulgarian). Convenient to use for trimming metal profiles, as well as siding, regardless of what material it is made of;
  • Construction stapler and staples, for installation vapor barrier material;
  • A stationery knife or any other sharp knife for cutting insulation and vapor barrier;
  • Stepladder or ladder for access to the upper part of the facade;
  • You will also need an axe, hammer and nail puller. When decorating a house yourself, there is always something to pull out, knock on, and trim.

Advice: to facilitate installation in the upper part of the facade, special scaffolding is used. If the height of the house is more than one floor, such scaffolding can be built up, thereby providing access to the highest point.

Work algorithm

Next, let's move on to studying how to install metal siding with your own hands. The instructions for dummies include the following sequence for covering a house with siding with your own hands:

  1. Calculation of the required amount of materials;
  2. Preparatory work;
  3. Installation of vapor barrier;
  4. Installation of insulation;
  5. Marking for subsequent installation of the frame;
  6. Subsystem installation;
  7. Siding installation;
  8. Installation of additional elements.

Material calculation

To carry out the installation of siding panels, it is necessary to calculate in advance the required amount of materials. To do this, you need to measure the length and height of all walls that need finishing, and then calculate their area.


Tip: to calculate the required amount of materials, only the clean area of ​​the walls is used. To determine it, it is necessary to subtract the total area of ​​all windows from the rough area.

To determine the required amount of metal profile in linear meters, you need to multiply the net area of ​​the walls by a factor of 2.2. The resulting result can be divided by 3, thus finding out the number of pieces of the profile.

To install each profile, six metal hangers are required, thus, by multiplying the number of profiles by six, you can find out the exact number of hangers.

It is not difficult to calculate the required number of screws or dowel nails for attaching hangers. You will need two of them per suspension, so you need to multiply the number of suspensions by 2 and get the required number.

Insulation, for sale cubic meters, respectively, multiplying the net area of ​​the walls for finishing with siding by the thickness of the insulation, you can find out the volume of material that will be needed for the work.

The siding itself for finishing a house is calculated quite simply, since you can calculate the area of ​​one siding panel, then divide the net area by the area of ​​one panel and find out the required quantity.

Self-tapping screws for assembling the frame and fastening the panels are calculated based on the clean area that needs finishing. For every square meter of area, 50 screws will be required.

After everything has been done and the material has been purchased, you can begin installing the metal siding yourself. Step-by-step instruction advises starting work from the preparatory stage.

Preparatory work

Advice: If work is carried out in a new house that does not yet have window trim, preparatory stage you can check the integrity of the window sealing material and, if necessary, foam the defective areas using polyurethane foam.

The preparatory stage includes the following work:

  • Dismantling of window sills and slopes;
  • Removal drain pipes and their fastenings;
  • If there are lighting fixtures on the walls, they also need to be dismantled, and after work on siding the house, the lanterns will be mounted back on the wall. Work on removing and moving lighting lamps must be carried out in compliance with safety precautions. Most the best option, is to entrust such work to a professional electrician;
  • Inspecting walls for defects and eliminating them. Seal cracks with polyurethane foam; if the house is wooden, you can treat them with an antiseptic solution, which will prevent corrosion of the material and additionally protect it from the negative effects of moisture.

Installation of vapor barrier and insulation

After preparatory work Before assembling the frame, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier and insulation.


Important: if polyurethane foam is used for insulation, then there is no need to install a vapor barrier and you can immediately begin marking and installing hangers. Work on the insulation of the facade can be carried out both after the frame is installed and before its assembly, and after the frame has already been assembled.

The vapor barrier is fixed vertically with an overlap of 10–15 cm. If the walls of the house are wooden, then the work is carried out using a construction stapler, otherwise additional dowels with washers placed under the screw head will be needed for fastening.

After installing the vapor barrier, thermal insulation is laid and secured using dowels for insulating materials. At this stage, there is no need to secure the thermal insulation to a large number of dowels, since in the future it will be securely fixed using hangers for the metal profile installed on top of it.

Marking

When marking, you need to remember the basic rules for installing the frame; adhering to them, you will not be able to make mistakes when installing the frame. The basic rules for installing a subsystem include the following mandatory requirements:

  1. The frame must be installed in such a way that the distance between the nearest profiles does not exceed sixty centimeters;
  2. At the corners of the walls, at a distance of no more than 10 cm from them, a profile must be installed without fail;
  3. If you plan to install vinyl or acrylic siding, then you need to make special corner jumpers on which you will later attach corner strip;
  4. Profiles must be installed on all sides of windows and doors;
  5. The pitch of the hangers holding each of the profiles should be no more than sixty centimeters.

Frame assembly

Work on assembling the frame begins with the installation of the outer profiles. They must be secured strictly vertically. The location is controlled using a level. Next, between the outer profiles, for ease of installation of the remaining frame elements, you can stretch several rows of construction cords. As a rule, three rows are made (at the very bottom, in the center and at the top).

After the frame is assembled, you can check its correct installation using metal rule or profile. To do this, you need to press the rule to the frame, grabbing at least three profiles. If the rule is pressed tightly against all three elements of the system, it means that the assembly was carried out correctly, otherwise, when curvature is observed and the rule is not pressed tightly, it is necessary to carry out work to eliminate the causes of this phenomenon.

Installation of metal siding panels

Metal siding, unlike its plastic counterparts, has sufficient rigidity and can be installed without additional elements. For example, such as corner or near window trims.

You need to start work on attaching the siding to the frame from the bottom and gradually work your way up. To attach the first strip of siding, you can use a starting strip, which must be leveled horizontally and firmly attached to the frame using 13mm psh-tapping screws.


If desired, you can do without the starting one; in this case, the siding strip is immediately leveled and attached. To prevent the lower part of the siding from dangling, it is secured to the profile with self-tapping screws.

Important: when attaching metal siding without an additional starting strip, the bottom row of screws holding the strip of siding will be visible. If this is unacceptable, you must use a starting strip for installation.

The length of one strip of siding is six meters. In the event that this is not enough to cover the entire width of the wall, a special connecting profile is used to connect the siding strips. It is installed strictly vertically, in the place where the siding panels are planned to be joined. To install a connecting profile in a place where there is no frame element, you can make horizontal jumpers between two adjacent profiles. The distance between jumpers should not exceed 0.6 m.

After the first strip has been installed and its horizontal position has been checked, the next strip can be installed. To do this, the technological bend on it is installed in the groove of the already mounted strip, after which it is secured in the upper part. The siding is fastened using PSh self-tapping screws, no more than 13 mm long.


Advice: although the preparatory work and installation of the frame can be done alone, then it is not so easy to cope with the installation of six-meter strips of siding alone. It is much more convenient to carry out installation with an assistant.

Fastening plastic strips of siding

Unlike metal siding, the plastic version does not have sufficient rigidity and for this reason must be installed in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations and together with additional structural elements. Therefore, installation work plastic siding begin with the installation of corner and, if necessary, connecting strips. All recommendations for proper installation of siding can be found on the product packaging. But we will still consider the particularly important points. The first point is the need to maintain gaps that compensate for the thermal linear expansion of the product. The gap should be at least 0.5 mm and no more than 1 cm.

The second point is that plastic siding, unlike metal siding, must be secured in such a way that installed panel could be freely moved to the left or right, to the distance provided by the technological perforation. To achieve this result, when attaching plastic panels siding, the fastening screws should be installed approximately in the middle of the perforation and not tightened to the end.

By observing these simple rules installation, you can be confident in the quality of the final result.

Below you can watch a video description of how to install siding with your own hands; the video shows step by step the entire process of finishing the facade; in fact, these are instructions for installing siding, with a step-by-step process described in video format.

Conclusion

Above, we familiarized ourselves with how to install siding with our own hands. The described step-by-step instructions are quite detailed, but still do not include all the necessary information. Siding installation work is not difficult if you follow the instructions. The main thing when installing plastic siding is to maintain the gaps and install the fastening screws so that the siding panel can move freely to the distance provided for by the mounting perforations.

The siding installation diagram may differ depending on the material from which it is made. Sheathing a house with metal siding is a little easier for a novice craftsman than studying the instructions for installing plastic siding and carrying out the work, following the required procedure and technical recommendations of the manufacturer of this material.

Siding is one of the types of building materials for wall cladding. With its help, you can completely change the appearance of a private house at low cost, if the house is still good, but already quite old. In addition, finishing and siding are used for the outside.

Layed on top of the insulation, it not only hides it, but also improves the entire exterior of the house. It is for this reason that many home owners decide to make such changes to the appearance of their home. Step-by-step instructions on how to cover your house with siding yourself will help you do all the work correctly.

A little history

This type of cladding was invented by our Pomors. For hunting, durable, light vessels were needed. It was in shipbuilding that this type of ship plating was used. Actually, the word siding itself is translated as plank. Northern peoples adopted this technology to insulate their homes, lining their houses with planks. In addition to insulation, this technology made it possible to speed up the construction of houses on the northern coast, and was very popular among Russian pioneers.

Nowadays, siding is made from modern building materials:

  • Vinyl;
  • Metal;
  • Cement (fiber cement siding);
  • Tree.

Various types of siding allow you to completely change the appearance of a private home without significant financial costs.

Preparation for sheathing

Preparatory work for covering a house with siding is not very difficult. The entire building will need to be carefully inspected and several measurements taken. If swelling is visible masonry mortar, you just need to shoot them down. Either drive the protruding nails back or remove them altogether. If possible, small protrusions more than 6 mm in height should also be eliminated.

Inspection

When inspecting a house, it is also necessary to identify unevenness in the walls, base, corners, window openings and other architectural elements - in general, wherever facing works siding. It is better to carry out such measurements using a long reference metal slats, cord and tape measure. Deviation from the plane is permissible no more than 12 mm. In local places – no more than 6 mm.

Simply put, if the entire wall is not rectangular shape, and diamond-shaped - then the difference in diagonals should be no more than 12 mm. The same option, but for a window or door – 6 mm.

The general unevenness of the entire wall (pediment, cornice, plinth) should not exceed 12 mm.
Over time, the building may sag on one side and tilt. The inclination of a wall or the entire building is checked using a plumb line. Deviation from the vertical is allowed no more than 25 mm. If the slope of the entire building is greater than permissible, then it is already in a pre-emergency condition. If it is not eliminated, then further work on siding is simply pointless.

Preparatory work

After checking the geometry of the building, a set of preparatory work is required. Platbands, drains, grates, etc. are removed. If you find cracks in the walls, near window and door openings, seal them either with polyurethane foam or simply with cement mortar. If you find: broken plaster, peeling paint, areas covered with mold - thoroughly clean such areas. Treat wooden walls with any antiseptic.

Tools and materials

Before starting work on siding your house, make sure you have a full set of available tools:

  • Electric screwdriver and screwdriver;
  • Hammer;
  • Roulettes (laser tapes are easier and more convenient to work with);
  • Construction level;
  • Stairs.

How to cut boards

When cladding a building, part of the finishing panels is used entirely. But in some places you will have to make extensions from the same material. Depending on what material will be used for cladding and siding, the tool for cutting the panels is also selected.

For vinyl

  • Electric jigsaw with fine-toothed blade;
  • Bulgarian;
  • Sharp Cutter;
  • Universal;
  • Hacksaw for metal;
  • Shoe knife.

Metal siding

  • hacksaw for metal;
  • metal scissors;
  • electric circular saw with pobedit teeth.

Advice! The use of an angle grinder (grinder) is accompanied by heating of the metal siding at the cut site, damaging the protective top layer.

Material

If you want to do all the cladding work yourself, in order to purchase all required material you can just contact a large hardware store. The seller simply needs to describe in detail the area of ​​the walls, the number of windows and doors, etc., and he will calculate and select the necessary set of materials for the job.

And in order to control the quality of the product, you need to know what characteristics the material for covering a house with siding must meet:

  1. Same thickness throughout the entire panel.
  2. Mandatory presence of special markings on inside panels. This marking carries all necessary information by material: color, batch number, release date. If there was not enough material for covering during the work process, you can always purchase more, focusing on this marking.
  3. The quality panels have a hurricane lock. It is made in the form of a bend on top of the panel and is located above the holes for fasteners.
  4. A sure sign that a company cares about its image is the presence of additional elements and accessories included with the materials.
  5. All products must be provided with certificates and warranties. The minimum warranty period for coverage must be 50 years.
  6. Responsible sellers will definitely include instructions for installing siding with the purchased product.

Installation of sheathing

First, markings are made. Straight lines are drawn on the walls of the house so as to create a closed contour. To make the line horizontal, a horizontal level helps. At the corners of the house from the horizontal line, it is necessary to take measurements with a tape measure to identify minimum distance to the base. When the minimum distance is set at this level, the string for the contour is pulled. The starting bar will be mounted on it.

The next stage is the installation of elements of vertical metal guides from the installation horizon, starting from the corners. The distance between the vertical slats is 35-45 cm. Additional guides are made near windows and doors. The main condition is that they should not intersect anywhere.

This is necessary to ensure that air constantly circulates under the siding, preventing the formation of mold.
For walls made of brick and concrete, the guides are made from a special profile. For log walls, slats with a cross section of 60x40 mm, treated with an antiseptic solution, are used.

Waterproofing and insulation

If the sheathing is installed on wooden and aerated concrete walls, installation of waterproofing is required.

Insulation of walls with mini-slabs is carried out at the request of the house owner, but a moisture-and-windproof membrane must be installed in any case. If there is no insulation, the film is attached to the wall of the house. If there is a layer of insulation, a layer of waterproofing is attached on top of it. Since a gap for ventilation between the insulation panels and the siding is required, a sheathing is constructed on top of the insulation layer.

Guides

Now that the insulation is in place and the sheathing is ready, it’s time to install siding accessories, such as:

  • external and internal elements at the corners of the structure;
  • strips for window and door openings;
  • ebbs on the base of the building and windows.

The basement drainage is fixed at the intended level under the lower siding strip so that the upper edge runs along the line. The corner elements are attached rigidly to self-tapping screws at the very top of the outer hole. The subsequent screws are screwed into the middle of the slot in increments of 50 cm.

Advice! If the profile is not enough, it can be built up with another one, overlapping with the previous one with an overlap of five centimeters.

Window framing begins with the installation of the ebb. It protrudes beyond the window opening by 8-10 cm on both sides. The side window strips are installed on this protrusion. From below, the ebb is held in place by a j-profile. After installing the siding, the window design is completed by installing the trim.

The process of edging a doorway is almost identical to that of a window.

Installation of panels

The process of installing siding panels is somewhat similar to a LEGO set. Each element is connected to the other in turn. The first row from the bottom is attached to the first (starting) bar with light pressure until a click appears from below. At the top, through the slots, they are fastened with self-tapping screws in the center, so that the siding moves into them without visible effort. Fastening is carried out from the center to the edges of the building, in increments of 40 cm.

All subsequent panels are attached in the same way, rising from the foundation to the roof. The topmost row ends with a finishing strip.

Basic installation rules

  1. Be sure to avoid rigid fastening of siding panels. It should be remembered that the material itself has the property of shrinking in the cold and expanding in the summer. Therefore, the screw is screwed into the center of the hole so that there is a gap of 1 mm between the screw head and the plate.
  2. Maintain a 10 mm gap between the slats and the guides. This will prevent the siding from being damaged when it expands in hot weather.
  3. Facing a house with siding can be done in any weather, but it should be taken into account that in frost the material becomes brittle and therefore requires more careful handling during installation.

Watch the video:

I have the following problem. House old building, and just needs to be insulated corner room, in winter it’s cold, damp and mold grows on the walls. There is not enough money to cover the entire house, so we decided to start from this place. This is an extension, and not made very well. Deviation from the plane is about 20 mm. So far we have decided that horizontal cladding will show all the shortcomings, and vertical cladding will hide it, but we doubt whether this is so.

The question arose before winter of covering the house with siding. Since I am not a builder myself, I encountered this for the first time. I re-read a bunch different advice, sites that tell you what and how to do. But I haven’t been able to find anyone who can put it all in concrete terms. I came across this article. I read and understood everything very carefully. What, how to do and what will be needed. As a result, I bought beige metal siding and got to work. Since I was on vacation, my friend and I did everything quickly. It’s good that the house is recently built, so all the corners and walls are even. There were practically no difficulties. The result is a satisfied wife and beautiful house. Thanks for the article, it turned out to be very useful.

28457 0

The construction of a private house involves not only its interior decoration, but also the cladding of the outer part, that is, the facade. The most popular solution today is siding, that is, panels made of different materials with a lock and an edge. It has a number of valuable advantages, excellent performance characteristics and attractive appearance. Siding can be smooth and glossy, imitating the structure of wood or stone, so it will fit perfectly into any landscape. The most important thing is to choose the right material and lay it according to all the rules.

Depending on the material from which the siding is made, it can be wood, polyvinyl chloride (vinyl), acrylic, fiber cement or metal (steel, zinc, aluminum). All types of finishes differ in cost, durability, resistance to all kinds of damage and other characteristics.

Type of sidingFlaws

It can reproduce any texture, looks impressive, and has a wide range of colors. Sheathing made from this type of siding is resistant to negative factors(can be used at temperatures from -50 to +50), is lightweight and has an affordable priceAt high humidity and sudden temperature changes can become deformed, is susceptible to mechanical damage, and has a relatively short service life

Resistant to sun fading and high temperatures(up to +85 degrees), excellent strength characteristics, resistance to chemicals, does not have the ability to igniteHigh price

The material is strong and durable, resistant to temperature changes, does not contribute to the proliferation of fungal spores and harmful microorganismsLow sound insulation, possibility of peeling of the coating from metal base at the incision sites. Aluminum siding is subject to mechanical damage, after which it must be returned original appearance no longer possible

High environmental friendliness, thermal insulation, variety of texture and pattern on the cutInsufficient strength, fragility, flammability and deformation, difficulty in maintenance, high cost

The material can replace a natural stone, as it is made from cement, water, sand and cellulose. Resistant to atmospheric influences, not subject to corrosion, rotting, does not contribute to the development of fungus and mold, easy to operateHigh price, difficult to purchase (practically not common in Russia)

If we're talking about O color solutions, then the most common are pastel materials - they are much cheaper than bright siding (this is due to the addition of expensive components that prevent the finish from fading in the sun).

Vinyl material should be mentioned separately, since it is considered the most practical and inexpensive option for finishing the facade of any building. It is made from PVC panels and is presented in a large assortment in any specialized store or on the construction market. In addition, vinyl panels are quite easy to install, so you can do all the work yourself.

Siding prices

Varieties and elements of siding

In order not to make a mistake when choosing and installing siding, you need to understand the varieties and additional elements of the material. Depending on the design characteristics and installation features, siding is divided into several types.

Horizontal and vertical siding

Vinyl panels can be horizontal or vertical. The second type is less familiar to domestic consumers, since in Russia horizontal panels are more often used for finishing buildings.

To choose the right type of material, you should consider some design differences between horizontal and vertical siding.

  1. Different geometry and configuration of elements. Theoretically, vertical siding can be installed horizontally, but without the appropriate experience and knowledge it is quite difficult to do this - the installation may ultimately be incorrect, which will lead to water leakage and other troubles.
  2. No additional perforation. There is perforation at the bottom of the horizontal panels, while the vertical ones do not.

Otherwise, these types of siding practically do not differ from each other, since they are made from the same material, and also require compliance with certain rules during installation.

Wall panels

This type of material is intended for cladding vertical surfaces and, in turn, is divided into several types:


The main difference between shiplap and herringbone is the presence of a characteristic break in the center of the panel, with the first type most common in Europe and Russia, and the second in the USA and Canada. Siding types are marked with the Latin letters T (triple herringbone), D (double) and S (single). After the letter designation there is a number that indicates the width of the panel - for example, the marking S 4.5 indicates a single herringbone panel with a bend thickness of 4.5 inches (approximately 114 mm).

Block house prices

Block house

Basement siding is a material that is used to cover the lower part of a building. They are twice as thick as regular ones cladding panels, due to which they are characterized by increased strength and are not subject to deformation and all kinds of damage. At the same time, the mass of the panels is very small, that is, their installation does not require additional reinforcement of the foundation.

Soffit

Soffit is essentially ceiling siding, which is used to cover the protruding part of the roof and finish ceilings in attics and attics. Similar panels not only give the building a perfect and finished look, but also protect the space under the roof from precipitation, insects, etc. Structurally, they are divided into two- and three-lane, and in addition, they can be perforated, mixed and non-perforated.


Prices for spotlights

Additional elements

To make siding look attractive, it is necessary to use not only panels, but also profiles and accessories that give it a complete look.

These additional elements include:

  • starting profile used to install the first row of panels, from which installation work begins;
  • finishing profile for row fastenings under the roof;
  • the external corner and internal corner covers the edges of the cladding panels laid along the external and internal corners of the building;
  • J-bevel is used to cover the top of the facade and gives it a finished appearance;
  • The J-profile is an accessory used in conjunction with the J-bevel;
  • The H-profile connects the panels in the middle of the wall, covers their edges and is used to implement all kinds of design solutions;
  • the molding is a cross between the finishing and J-profile, and is necessary for fastening vertical cladding in places of transition to soffits;
  • near-window profile is used for lining window and door openings;
  • the ebb acts as a drainage cornice;
  • platband is necessary for decorative finishing of door and window openings;
  • the slope is auxiliary profile, used in combination with platbands;
  • The edging profile provides cover for connections and joints between panels, and can also replace the starting profile or vertical panels.

It should be noted that all of the above accessories for siding panels may differ in width, length and configuration, and these characteristics are unique not only for the products of an individual manufacturer, but also for each line of facing material.

Installing siding panels is a fairly simple, but painstaking and time-consuming task that requires not only precision and accuracy, but also strict adherence to installation rules.

General rules

The technology and sequence of installation of siding panels depends on the characteristics of the material and surface, but there are several general points, which should be remembered when performing work.

  1. Installation of siding can be carried out in three ways: on an aluminum surface, directly on the facade and on the sheathing. The first method has one serious drawback - the high price, and installing siding directly on the walls of a building is only possible in cases where they are made of wood and have a fairly flat surface. The easiest way to install panels is to pre-clad the facade with lathing, which will not only make the cladding smooth and neat, but will also speed up the work.

  2. In the case of log buildings, all cladding work is carried out only when the structure has completely shrunk.
  3. It is recommended to attach vinyl panels exclusively to the factory holes - you should not punch the material, as this may adversely affect its service life.

  4. Wooden elements are fastened with galvanized hardware, otherwise the wood will quickly begin to rot.
  5. It is better for beginners to start installation from the back of the facade, so that by the time they move to the front, the person has already developed certain experience and skills.
  6. Installation of siding panels is carried out from the rear corner, overlapping in rows from top to bottom, which makes the joints between them less noticeable.
  7. When performing work, it is necessary to control the evenness of every third installed row, otherwise all the others will also be skewed.

  8. A very important point is that under the influence of temperature, panels can expand and contract - if the fastening force is incorrectly calculated, the panels can subsequently become deformed.
  9. Fasteners are driven exclusively into the center of the factory hole. If this is not possible, you should carefully widen the hole with a hammer drill (do not drive nails into the end of the hole, otherwise you can seriously damage the panel).

  10. The siding elements do not need to be nailed tightly - they should move slightly from side to side.

    Error 2. Installers screw the screws all the way into the perforation, this should not be done

  11. When attaching the panel to the frame, you do not need to press it upward or downward: the force is applied from the bottom up until the connection of the upper element snaps into the lock of the lower one.
  12. At the joints of facing panels with additional elements, a gap of 6-12 mm thick should be left. If work is carried out at low temperatures, the gap width should be at least 10-12 mm.

  13. Fasteners should be driven in as smoothly and straight as possible so that the panels do not deform or warp.
  14. If a crack appears on the panel, it is better to replace it with another one, since the crack will expand over time.

The process of installing siding panels consists of several stages, and they must be performed in a certain sequence - only in this case the result will fully meet expectations.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Step-by-step instructions for installing siding

Siding installation begins with calculating the required amount of material. To do this, you can use special calculators on construction sites or a simple formula. The building should be divided into simple geometric figures, measure their areas and summarize the resulting numbers. In addition, it is necessary to create detailed diagram cladding of the building, where all required profiles and accessories, as well as their location. It should be remembered that approximately 10% of the total volume of material will go to fitting and trimming, and if the work is being done for the first time, some elements may be damaged.

After purchasing siding, you can move on to the main stages of work, and the first of them is preparing available tools and materials.

Stage one. Preparation of tools and materials

Siding panels for installation and materials for making sheathing must be absolutely intact, without cracks, chips or flaws. If the work is planned to be carried out in winter, the siding should be allowed to “rest” outside at a temperature of at least 15 degrees.

In addition, you will need to prepare fastening elements (screws, nails, staples), which will penetrate the material at least 20 mm, and a number of tools necessary for cladding the building.

  1. Electric saw. To speed up cutting siding, it is best to use an electric saw (hand or stationary), and the blade should be set to reverse (when working with wood, the tool is used as usual). If installation is carried out in cold weather, you need to move the blade as slowly as possible.
  2. Scissors for cutting metal. Polyvinyl chloride and other materials from which siding panels are made (especially polyvinyl chloride) are quite easy to process, and with the help of such a tool you can easily give the panels the desired shape.
  3. Hammer. Necessary for drilling holes for fasteners.
  4. Punch. It is used for punching holes (so-called hooks) on the sides of panels when installing siding under the roof or under openings.
  5. Siding removal tool. It happens that when working with panels it is necessary to dismantle one or more of them, so it is better to obtain the right tool, something like a hook.

In addition to all of the above, to perform the work you should prepare a hammer, a jigsaw, a level, a tape measure and a piece of chalk, and it is better to protect your eyes with special glasses.

Stage two. Surface preparation

High-quality wall preparation is the key to ensuring that the siding will look neat and attractive. It is best to install the panels on top of moisture-proofing material (it is not necessary to install waterproofing, but experts recommend protecting all places where the siding will come into contact with the walls of the building and openings). Before starting work, the surface must be removed old finishing, as well as all elements that may interfere with installation: shutters, gutters, etc., and clean the surface of the walls from dirt and dust.

Stage three. Manufacturing of sheathing

Before installing the sheathing, you should check the reliability of all elements of the building: for example, replace all loose and broken boards. To construct a frame for siding, dry and straight bars of appropriate sizes (usually 4x6 cm) without signs of rot, stains or deformation are taken, and they should be treated in advance with antiseptics and fire retardants (substances that prevent fire). A more reliable, but rather expensive solution is a galvanized profile, which is mounted in the same way as a wooden frame.

If horizontal siding is used for cladding, the frame guides are attached vertically, and vice versa. The distance between them should be 30-40 cm (in regions with difficult weather conditions - about 20 cm). Additional slats are installed around door and window openings, at the bottom and top of the facade, and also where additional accessories (for example, lanterns) will hang.

All parts must be mounted level, checking them with a level from time to time. You can attach the sheathing elements in any way, but the best option are ordinary nails. If the frame is mounted on concrete or brick, holes should be made in the walls in advance using a hammer drill. Places where the siding will come into contact with building materials, should be securely sealed to protect them from moisture and frost.

Stage four. Panel installation

Most important stage building cladding - installation of panels on the sheathing. It must be carried out as accurately and accurately as possible, in compliance with the rules listed above. The actual installation algorithm for siding panels is as follows.

Step 1. Determine the point from which installation will begin. To do this, find a point in the bottom guide of the frame, move 50 mm away from it, put a mark and lightly screw in the self-tapping screw. Move consistently around the perimeter of the building, continuing to make marks and screw in screws. They also need to be screwed into the corners of the building.

Step 2. Stretch a string between the corner marks, mark on the sheathing slats the places where the corner profiles will be installed (this is where installation begins). Attach the profile to the corner of the frame and put marks along the edges with chalk, then attach it to the sheathing. The remaining corner profiles, external and internal, are fastened in the same way, and fastening must begin with top hole, top down.

Step 3. After the corner elements are installed, you can proceed to installing accessories on window and door openings: trims, flashings and finishing trims.

Step 4. Moving along the perimeter of the rope, make a 6 mm indentation from the edge of the corner profile and attach the starting profile, and then the first starting panel. If it is attached correctly, the rest of the siding will also fit as it should. Be sure to leave a centimeter gap between the elements to compensate for possible thermal deformation of the vinyl. The panels should not be fastened too tightly - there should be a gap of at least 1 mm between the head of the fastener and the surface of the material. Also, do not pull the panel up, otherwise it may crack or become deformed.

Step 5. After attaching the accessories, the installation of the facing panels is carried out, which is carried out from the bottom to the top, starting from the starting ones. The panel is inserted into the first one in the row and mounted to the frame with hardware, and they need to be driven in, starting from the center and moving towards the sides. The height of the panels should be installed on top of each other: the lower lock of the higher element fits into lock connection lower. Panels can be assembled into sections of arbitrary height and width, depending on design solution. If the panel covers the opening of a window or door, it is necessary to cut off the excess piece so that it fits between the trim or other accessory.

Step 6. The last top row is installed only after the finishing strip. It is necessary to nail it close to the roof, measure the distance between its lower part and the lock of the panel of the penultimate row. Subtract 1-2 mm for the gap from the obtained figures. Take the whole panel, mark it so that it fits between the J-profile and the bottom panel, cut it off top part along with the lock.

Step 7 On the top of the prepared panel, create so-called hooks every 20 cm - make small cuts and bend them front side. Insert the trimmed part into the bottom panel and lightly snap it into the locking connection.

The photo shows the installation of the finishing strip

Step 8 The final step is cladding the roof gables. The work is carried out as follows: the J-profile is attached along the corner of the pediment (if more than one element is required, you need to attach the second one with an overlap of 2 cm).

Step 9 Measure the pitch of the roof and cut the siding accordingly. More likely, last panel you will have to nail it using a fastener. This is the only case when it is allowed to drive a nail or screw a screw directly through the panel.

At this point, the installation of siding panels can be considered complete. If everything was done as needed, the result of the work will be an aesthetic, reliable and durable cladding.

It should be noted that vertical siding is installed according to a similar pattern. The only difference is that the sheathing for its installation should not be vertical, but horizontal.

Removing damaged panels

If the panel has been damaged and a new one needs to be put in its place, the work is performed as follows.

  1. Insert a dismantling hook between two panels: the damaged one and the one located above.
  2. Pick up the lock and pull the tool down along the edge to release the damaged panel.
  3. Pull out the fasteners using a nail puller - if they are too tight, you can simply hammer them into the frame elements.
  4. Remove the panel, put a new one in its place and secure with hardware.
  5. Using the same hook, place the top panel on the laid lock and snap it into place.

Siding panel care

Caring for siding panel cladding is much easier than caring for other cladding. It needs to be washed with a hose from time to time, and to remove old stains, use a soft brush or rag. To avoid damaging the material, do not use abrasive household products and harsh improvised means. In addition, do not clean siding with chlorine bleach, organic solvents, substances that contain acetone, or are used to polish furniture. Contaminants from its surface can be easily removed with a solution of water washing powder, as well as any water-based cleaners. If you need to remove chewing gum from the panel, you can use a solution of water and vinegar.

5 Installation of metal siding under a log: step-by-step instructions Components for siding

  • How to make lathing for siding with your own hands
  •