During major repairsredevelopment of an apartment is a common thing; all that remains is to decide on the material and technology for constructing new walls and partitions. We suggest paying attention to tongue-and-groove gypsum boards- practical, affordable and universally applicable material.
Tongue-and-groove slabs and their scope of application
Tongue-and-groove slabs (GGP) are rectangular blocks of gypsum fiber 80 or 100 mm thick. The size of the slabs is standard - height 500 mm, width 667 mm. To strengthen the connection between the plates, their edges are made in the form of grooves and ridges. The technology allows the construction of up to 4 m 2 of partitions per hour.
Standard slabs are used in rooms with normal humidity conditions; moisture-resistant GGPs are used for bathrooms and baths. The plate can be either solid or hollow with horizontal through holes with a diameter of 40 mm. A hollow slab is not only characterized by reduced lightness and thermal conductivity; when laying slabs in one row, the cross-sectional alignment of the holes is guaranteed to be at least 90%, which allows the cavities to be used as technical channels for laying electrical wiring or pipes.
Preparing the installation site
PGP is universal in use and can be installed in almost any construction conditions. Due to their low weight, they do not require a foundation and can be installed directly on a screed or even on a solid wooden floor.
The only requirement for the place where the partition will be erected is that the base should not have a horizontal height difference of more than 2 mm per 1 meter. If the floor in the room does not meet these requirements, then a leveling screed 20–25 cm wide is made.
The surface of both the screed and the floor must be coated several times with a deeply penetrating primer, then dried and cleaned. It is optimal to install the PGP before plastering the load-bearing walls, so finishing coating it will turn out more complete.
Damper pad device
To compensate for thermal expansion and settlement of the building, a tape of elastic material is laid at the junction of the partitions with the floor and walls. It could be rubber Cork tree or silicone tape.
The base is covered with a thin layer of GGP glue and the tape is laid. It takes 6–8 hours to harden, after which you can begin constructing the partition.
Installation of the first row
Installation of PGP is carried out strictly in rows, starting from the bottom. The first row is basic and must be correctly oriented in space, vertically and horizontally. Most common mistake during installation - “waviness” of the partition, which occurs due to a slight displacement in the grooves. To eliminate this phenomenon, when laying each slab, you need to use a rule strip and check the general plane of the partition against it.
The first row should be laid from the corner. The area where the slab touches the floor and wall is covered with GGP glue, then the block is installed with the ridge up and its position is leveled. Convenient to use for moving slabs rubber mallet. Be sure to fasten the first block to the wall and floor using L-shaped plates, the role of which is successfully performed by direct hangers. To use them, you need to cut off the toothed comb from the edges and bring the thickness of the plate to the width of the comb. The plates are first attached to the base using quick-installation dowels with a length of 80 mm or more, then to the slab with black self-tapping screws no less than 60 mm long.
Subsequently, the slabs are attached through one side: on one side to the floor, on the other - to the previous slab, with the joint first coated with a thin layer of glue and pressed firmly. To control the placement of slabs according to the project, it is convenient to use lacing or a laser level. It would also be a good idea to mark the partition on the floor and walls indicating the locations for the doorways.
Erection of the partition and adjoining to load-bearing walls
The second and subsequent rows are laid with a seam offset of at least 150 mm. The slab is located strictly in the plane of the partition thanks to the tongue-and-groove connection. It is enough to control the horizontal installation level and lateral tilt. The outer slabs are attached to the load-bearing walls with L-shaped plates or reinforcement rods 8 mm thick.
To move the joints and remove the edge of the partition, you will need to trim the additional elements to the exact size. It is best to use a regular wood hacksaw with a thick blade and set teeth. If the partition is not adjacent to another wall, its end can be made perfectly even by increasing the thickness of the glue in the vertical seam from 2 to 6–8 mm.
Arrangement of doorways
The vertical edges of the openings do not require additional reinforcement. To lay slabs over an opening with a width of less than 90 cm, it is necessary to build a supporting U-shaped strip, which can be removed after the glue has dried.
Openings 90 cm wide or more require laying on top of a row of support beam slabs - 40 mm boards or reinforced profile CD 70 mm. To reach one level, it is recommended to trim the slabs laid on top of the crossbar. The jumper is placed into the partition at least 50 cm on each side.
Corners and intersections of partitions
At the corners and junctions of partitions, it is necessary to strengthen the masonry. To do this, the slabs are laid across a row, alternately covering the joints. In places where the relaying occurs, it is necessary to remove the ridges; they are cut with a hacksaw into sections of 4–5 cm and chipped with a chisel.
The connection can be further strengthened with sections of straight hangers or welded T-shaped elements made of smooth reinforcement. In any case, additional trimming of the ridge to the required distance will be required.
Top row bookmark
When laying the top row, a greatest number waste due to trimming the desired height. They can be glued and placed in voids, since this row of partitions does not experience a strong functional load.
Electrical wiring is usually laid in the voids of the top row, so it is important to prevent glue from getting into the holes. To facilitate cable pulling, you can additionally drill holes or make transverse holes with a diameter of 45 mm.
When laying the top row, it is necessary to maintain a gap from the ceiling of at least 15 mm to compensate for the deflection of the ceiling during settlement. The top row also needs to be attached to the floor of every second slab. Upon completion of installation, the remaining space is filled with polyurethane foam.
Interior finishing options
At correct installation The GWP curvature of the surface is no more than 4–5 mm per meter of plane. This is an acceptable indicator for wallpapering walls. External corners The partitions must be protected with a perforated corner profile placed on the starting putty. The internal corners are also puttied, strengthening them with sickle. The joints between the plates are cleaned with an 80 grit abrasive mesh, then the entire surface is coated twice with a high-adhesion primer.
Leveling walls made of PGP can be done with any finishing putty, but the coating will need to be reinforced with fiberglass mesh. Often, puttying partitions is used only to hide seams; as a rule, the layer does not exceed 2–4 mm. The tiles can be laid directly on the surface of the PGP with preliminary priming.
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If your cabinet doors are warped, be sure to call a professional right away. You can cope with this problem yourself at home. There are several options for possible “distortions”: the cabinet doors do not close or they are crooked.
First, open the door to provide free access to the hinges. To adjust them you will need a Phillips screwdriver. The doors can be adjusted up and down and left and right. Each of these areas is performed differently.
To adjust up and down, you need to loosen the top and bottom bolts. This should be done slowly and at the same time carefully monitoring the level of the doors. Also, be sure to hold the door with your hand when loosening the bolts, otherwise it may fall.
To adjust the door left and right, you need to unscrew the screw located closer to the door. As a result, the gap between the doors should be uniform.
This problem occurs most often. For example, this can happen when moving a cabinet from one place to another. Over time, the fasteners themselves may loosen, which will result in the cabinet door becoming misaligned.
First, you need to determine the cause of the door misalignment. Perhaps this is due to incorrect installation or assembling a cabinet. To determine using building level, with the help of which they check whether the diagonals are equal and whether the body is skewed.
These tips will help you quickly adjust the hinges on your cabinet doors. If you are not sure what problem you have, check first one direction, then the other. Adjustments must be made gradually, constantly checking all actions.
Adjusting wardrobe doors You can make it yourself - it's not that difficult. Stages of adjusting a wardrobe. To begin with, you should pay attention to the verticality of the side edges of the doors. Their correct position is strictly vertical. If there is no such provision, it is considered a defect and requires elimination. The side edge is adjusted using a bracket with a bolt, which is located at the bottom of the door next to the moving mechanisms. The vertical position of the door is achieved by rotating the bolt. A full turn clockwise will lower this edge of the door by about 1 mm, and, accordingly, rotation in the opposite direction will raise it by the same amount.
It is better to adjust the doors using a 4 mm hex key. After adjusting the verticality, adjustment of the abutment begins. It is required when the door does not fit tightly to the side rack. Adjustment occurs by changing the position of the bracket. It is located next to the vertical adjustment point or in the middle of the side surface of the door. Rotating the adjustment bolt will change the position of the sash. You should constantly check the tightness of the connection and, as soon as correct position is found, stop adjusting. Some types of wardrobes have a different configuration.
For example, the position of rail doors will be changed by raising or lowering the rail itself. In STERKH cabinets, the bracket is located in the middle part of the cabinet on the locking lock of the sealing frame. The main indicator of the correct position of the compartment doors is the smoothness of their movement. When opening and closing, no extraneous creaks or sounds should be heard; the door should move strictly horizontally, without wave-like movements.
Many of us, unfortunately, have encountered the problem of warped doors on tall cabinets. This problem is quite common, since even doors made of good chipboard, if they are tall and thin enough, will bend over time under their own weight.
In principle, there is nothing complicated in this form furniture fittings No. Essentially, it is a long threaded steel pin and two cups in which the pin is secured with nuts. A vertical groove 10 mm wide and 8 mm deep is milled under the door pin. Seats 12.5 mm deep are cut out for the cups.
The threaded pin inserted into the cups fits into milled landing grooves. After this, you need to rotate the nuts with an ordinary open-end wrench to either tighten them or stretch them (depending on which direction the doors are bent). When the adjustment is completed, this entire mechanism is covered with decorative overlays.
In general, in European and world practice, planophytes are used not only to straighten curved cabinet doors, but are installed during the manufacture of cabinets to prevent curvature of tall, thin furniture facades. Moreover, in European conditions On a large door, not two vertical planofits are installed, but even four (two horizontally and two vertically) to be able to adjust the door in any plane. However, in our realities, this option will be too expensive for most users. Using the standard
Diversity modern furniture surprises even fastidious users. There are many products on the market, but the most popular furniture products for storing things continue to be sliding wardrobes with sliding system opening doors. By installing them in own apartment, the consumer receives an excellent device for storing clothes, bedding and other small items. In addition, such products help save space in the room and fit perfectly into any interior. But with frequent use, the door opening mechanism becomes unusable, and various breakdowns occur. Fortunately, in most cases it is not necessary to call a specialist and you can fix most problems yourself. And it is about manually adjusting the doors that we will talk in the material below.
Difficulties in the adjustment process may arise in situations where the consumer owns a very old model. For example, the Sterkh cabinet has doors, to adjust which you will need to turn the bolt located on the bracket in the bolt lock.
Also, in some models, adjustment will need to be performed exclusively using rails. The consumer will be forced to choose optimal height, and press the rails at this mark. True, such models have long been discontinued, and the likelihood that you will come across them is close to the minimum level.
The mechanism includes the following components:
Also, in most situations, the interior space of the doors is filled with chipboard, and on some models the interior can be decorated with decorative glass.
Roller mechanisms have become widely popular among consumers. First of all, this is due to the simplicity of the design, which allows you to carry out repair work yourself.
The main elements are a guide bar located in the upper and lower parts. A door on which rollers are installed moves along it. In other words, the cabinet is opened by sliding along installed slats.
To adjust the cabinet yourself, you will need to prepare:
Presented steel furniture products integral part modern life. It pleases with its practicality and long service life. But sometimes door leaf fails, and there is a need for its adjustment.
Important! Adjustments should be made in a timely manner to prevent more serious damage.
In reality there is several types of faults, namely:
And below we will describe the procedure for each of the indicated situations.
In this situation, you must follow these instructions:
After this, the adjustment work is completed, and the doors fit snugly together again!
The problem is quite common, and the following instructions must be followed.
This is how you can eliminate the distortion and return the cabinet doors to their previous appearance by installing them in the optimal position.
The fixing element is almost impossible to adjust by hand, which is why it is better to use plastic strip. The process consists of the following steps.
This work is quite simple and can be done by hand even by an inexperienced user.
Users often encounter such a malfunction, and in most cases the result is mechanical damage. The guide profile is made of aluminum and can be straightened without much difficulty. To do this, you will need to use a mallet and correct the deformation.
Attention! If you don’t have a mallet at hand, you can straighten the profile using a regular hammer, having previously covered the impact area with linoleum or a rubber gasket.
An equally common malfunction. IN in this case the doors simply jump off the guide bar, and there may be several reasons for this, from the accumulation of dirt to the ingress of foreign parts into the profile. As a result, when moving, the doors encounter an obstacle and jump out of the guide bar. In this case, the roller mechanism located at the top of the display may not change its position.
Careless handling of furniture can also cause doors to fall out. For example, a sharp closing of the door leaf or a blow to it. In case of accumulation of debris or presence foreign object You just need to clean the profile with a cloth or vacuum cleaner. Then you will need to install the door into the groove. A similar method of installing the door in place is also used when it falls due to careless handling.
Recommendations for correct use cabinets will be standard, and not much different from tips for using other furniture. You need to be careful not to litter inner space products in a pile of things, and also do not use force when opening the doors.
Today, sliding wardrobes have significantly replaced conventional designs equipped with swing doors. Besides aesthetically pleasing, this piece of furniture takes up a lot less space compared to its clothing counterpart. And the variety of models makes it possible to choose a wardrobe for an interior designed in different styles. In order for all fasteners and components to function stably, periodic adjustment of the wardrobe doors is necessary. Adjustment allows you to minimize the risk of breakdowns and increase the service life of the product. You will learn how to do it in this article; this work is not difficult.
Important! The need for debugging does not mean the presence of any defects or defects. Sooner or later, such a need arises for all products. The reason is that when the doors move, vibration is created, which leads to the fasteners unscrewing or loosening.
During an external inspection, it is necessary to assess the condition of the side edges of the doors. It is necessary that they are strictly vertical, parallel to the side racks of the cabinet. In addition, any visible gaps between the side wall and the door leaf of the product are unacceptable. If something like this occurs, the defect must be urgently eliminated. The effect can be achieved by adjusting the bracket with the bolt, which is located near the roller at the bottom of the door.
By turning the bolt, you can bring the cabinet door to a vertical position:
Important! For debugging it is convenient to use a 4 mm hex key.
The need for such adjustment of wardrobe doors arises if the door does not fit tightly enough to the side rack. You can restore the correct position of the door by changing the position of the bracket. The bolt must be rotated gradually, all the time checking the correct connection of the blade.
If the door has a rail structure, you can adjust the door leaf by lowering or raising the rail strip.
Important! After finishing work, if adjustment sliding doors The wardrobe is made correctly, the structure should move silently and without stopping while moving.
The purpose of the stoppers is to soften the impact of the door leaf on the wall of the furniture. If the stoppers are installed correctly, then the vertical edge fits flush against the wall.
The sequence for installing stoppers is as follows:
Important! At correct installation stopper, the roller runs over it, and the sash is tightly adjacent to the side of the structure. If the roller does not engage the stopper, the latter must be moved away from the sidewall. When a gap forms, the stopper is moved closer to the side wall.
If the doors in the wardrobe are adjusted correctly, the door closes without hesitation, extraneous sounds or locking. If there is any play, even the slightest one, the debugging must be repeated.
