Cork flooring immediately earned fame and wide recognition among consumers. Relatively inexpensive and affordable prices, and the ability to lay the coating on your own without the involvement of specialists, make cork flooring an even more popular and in-demand product.
Manufacturers offer the buyer a wide choice and the opportunity to purchase, high-quality and affordable price category analogues and substitutes for real cork veneer.
You need to know and understand that there are small nuances and recommendations regarding laying cork floors. This also applies to the choice of all types of premises without exception. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare thoroughly before going to the store or to construction market for choosing and then purchasing cork flooring.
You should try to study how all cork floors are. Otherwise, you risk not only wasted material purchased, that is, your money wasted, but also work done in vain due to your carelessness.
A floor made from any cork does not slip at all and does not spring at all. Copes with a significant and significant load directed at it. Cork floors have excellent noise and thermal insulation. Its most important advantage is that it is completely harmless to health and one hundred percent environmentally friendly. Throughout the history of the use of cork flooring, no detrimental effects on human health have ever been identified.
With all the advantages and positive qualities Traffic jams, unfortunately, also have disadvantages. First of all, it's too much high price, but one cannot fail to note the complex and responsible process of its installation. A rather fragile cork does not tolerate inept and frivolous handling. It is better not to approach installing cork floors on your own without the proper experience.
Cork has a high sensitivity threshold to temperature changes. Its internal component and appearance. It can swell from water containing organic substances dissolved in it. In addition, cork perfectly absorbs all odors and retains them for a long time. If you have a wine bottle cork at home, try to restore it to its original appearance, or try to get rid of the smell of the part of the cork that was in the bottle. Nothing will work out.
Accordingly, based on the above, we can conclude that cork flooring will not last long in rooms where there are temperature fluctuations. Due to any thermal changes, after a short period of time, the cork will begin to crumble and become unusable. Therefore, it is not advisable to make cork floors in the hallway, kitchen and balcony. You can try laying cork laminate with protective coating, although this is also not advisable.
The worst places for cork flooring are the toilet and bathroom. Absolutely not! Too much humidity and temperature changes have a negative effect on the cork; over time, microcracks will appear in it, and moisture will flow through them into the very core of the cork, and soon swelling will occur, which will lead to detachment. This happens unnoticed, in places inaccessible to our view, under baseboards, or under the bathtub.
The cork does not have antiseptic properties, and if you take and open the place of swelling, the so-called bubble, then an unpleasant and not entirely attractive picture will appear before our eyes. The inner core of the cork will turn to mush.
Places for cork floors
There are 3 ways to lay cork flooring.
For floating cork floors and adhesive ones, the installation technologies are significantly different. Preparing the room for renovation remains the same, but the tools are different for each floor.
An important and probably the most determining factor is that the cork floor must be laid in warm time of the year. It is necessary to prevent a temperature difference of more than 5 degrees during delivery from the supplier to the house where the floor will be laid. Be sure to check the air humidity in the room and make sure it is not lower than 60%. When the air humidity is 75%, laying cork flooring is strictly prohibited.
A rubber hammer, called a mallet, for laying and adjusting the floor. You can use a jigsaw with a very fine file or a grinder for cutting planks. Hand saw cannot be used (the cork crumbles very much). If the floor is adhesive, then you will need a metal and heavy roller (skating rink) for good rolling. You will definitely need a level.
It will be necessary to make spacer wedges for the floating floor. They are made from scraps of cork laminate. Under no circumstances should they be wooden, because wooden ones will crumble the cork. In order to adjust and straighten the boards, we use the same rule. A clamp - a hook for tightening planks - also cannot be used.
You need to buy a plinth, it is special for cork floors. Including, you will need thresholds, glue and a spatula, preferably a wide one, in order to spread the glue on the boards.
Cork extraction
The floor surface should be as dry and level as possible. Simple concrete screed, cannot serve good coverage because its surface is too rough. Over time, the cork floor will play on it. Concrete here acts as an abrasive, so the cork will be rubbed off.
The wet surface is main enemy cork floor. It is necessary to dry the surface thoroughly before work, otherwise the cork will swell and deteriorate. What was written about above in the section on the bathroom and toilet.
In order to check the humidity of a concrete floor, you need to cover the floor with greenhouse film for 24 hours. Check after the allotted time, if there is moisture on the film, leave for another 24 hours. And so on until reaching desired result, dryness. A wet surface will inevitably damage the floor. Inspect and seal the cracks near the radiators especially carefully, since moisture can also penetrate from neighbors below.
Only with a liquid leveler, you need to level the floor under the cork. Cork is harder than any composite found in all dry levelers. In addition, cork is fragile in its composition. A floor made on a dry basis can crack at any time from pressure from a chair leg or from a woman's heel.
The strength, reliability and service life of a cork floor depend on the base. Experts advise laying marmoleum on the surface in front of the cork. Possibly the cheapest one. Possibly substandard.
If the floor is already covered with plywood, linoleum or laminate, you can simply lay a cork floor on top.
A floating cork floor can be laid with cork laminate or veneer. Of course, this is a job for specialists; as a rule, all attempts to assemble the floor yourself lead to all sorts of damage to expensive materials. Accordingly, the price of veneer pieces increases significantly.
Let's take a closer look at how to lay a floating floor made of cork laminate:
The quality of a glued cork floor directly depends on the choice of the glue itself. From the huge selection, I would like to highlight Cascoflex and similar adhesives. An adhesive based on no volatile aggressive solvent. It is non-toxic and dries in about 10 minutes, a time suitable for adjusting boards and tiles. The price of this glue and others like it is quite high. Based on this, the question arose about the possibility of using PVA glue.
Under no circumstances should a cork floor be laid using PVA. PVA glue is made with water based, which harms the traffic jam. When the PVA glue dries, the water evaporates from it, that is, if we apply a board and wait about 25 minutes, it will stick tightly and it will no longer be possible to correct it. In addition, when working with liquid PVA glue indoors, air humidity increases greatly. Conclusion, PVA glue cannot be used.
Of all the types of cork flooring, HDF (High Density Fiberboard) is the most inexpensive. This is a material covered on top with pressed cork chips. Simply put, this is ordinary fiberboard (Wood particle board), in its properties and naturally in quality, it is far from real cork. If you want to create the cheap illusion of a cork floor, then HDF is for you.
Reliable and durable, harmful or bad? Cork flooring can be anything. Much depends on the choice of the room where it will be placed. And the price and installation technology only affect its decorative features.
How to lay cork flooring? Laying interlocking cork flooring is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. A video on installing floating cork floors and recommendations from experts will help you get the job done.
Interlocking cork floors are often referred to as “floating.” The panels are connected to each other in a manner reminiscent of laying laminate flooring. A tongue-and-groove system is used.
They are not tightly attached to the base. If necessary, the coating can be disassembled. The joints are glued special glue for cork that is not afraid of moisture.
To arrange the castle floor, cork panels are used, consisting of several layers. Veneer made of valuable wood or cork is glued on top. The unique design of each panel makes the interior unique.
Useful tips for installing cork floors yourself:
Video on how to lay cork flooring.
Video instructions for laying cork on the floor.
When laying interlocking cork flooring, an underlay is used. It is made from crushed and compressed bark of a special cork oak tree.
Substrate– an important layer that is needed for heat, sound and waterproofing. Natural, environmentally friendly, non-flammable, durable cork backing is several times superior in its characteristics to other insulating materials.
The cost of cork flooring varies depending on the reputation of the manufacturer, brand, collection, the presence of a moisture-resistant coating, and the thickness of the material.
How much does a castle floor from well-known companies cost?
Average price per 1 square meter:
If you are not confident in your abilities or do not have the the right amount If you have free time to install interlocking cork floors yourself, contact a specialist. Brigade experienced craftsmen will quickly and efficiently carry out all the preparatory work, install the cork floor and give recommendations for its operation.
A comprehensive team that installs a floating cork floor on a turnkey basis charges for its services, on average, 130 rubles. for 1 sq. meter. IN different regions prices may vary slightly depending on the demand for the service.
Be sure to enter into an agreement that will insure you against unscrupulous performers.
Caring for natural cork floors quite simple:
Cork flooring is chosen by connoisseurs natural materials. There are two ways to install it: glue and tongue and groove.
The glue method is used when using natural cork, produced in the form of thick sheets. The tongue and groove is used when installing cork laminate, which top layer cork acts as a base, and NDF boards are used as a base, similar to laminate.
Have you decided how to install your cork floor? In fact, at the preparation stage it doesn’t matter; the preparation of the base is carried out the same way. The base must be perfectly level and smooth. The better the floor is prepared, the longer the service life of the cork covering will be. Leveling the floor is carried out using beacons. The base is leveled using self-leveling mixtures. This process should be approached with full responsibility.
Note! A varnished cork floor will subsequently reveal the slightest irregularities.
The leveling mixture must dry completely. Otherwise, mold will appear under the floor covering. Based on this, to preparatory work It is worth starting in advance, about 3 weeks before the start of laying the cork.
To install cork with glue, you will need the following tools:
Stages of work
Laying the cork in a run-up
Apply adhesive to the base in an even layer and place the first tile, pressing it firmly. The area of the applied adhesive should exceed the size of one tile, so that when laying the next one, you will not stain the already laid one. Then apply adhesive to the next section and secure the second tile.
If there is no chamfer on the edges, difficulties may arise at the joints. To fix this, take rubber mallet and hammer in the protruding edge. The entire surface is covered in the same way.
Final row
Note! When laying the last row, you will most likely need to trim the material using a sharp knife and ruler. Do not break the material, but run the knife several times.
Laying technology may vary depending on the adhesive chosen. For example, polymer-based adhesive is applied directly to the material rather than the floor. To avoid unforeseen situations, carefully read the instructions before use.
Final stage
As soon as the cork coating has dried, a layer of varnish is applied to it.
Note! Particularly good in combination with cork acrylic lacquer water-based, odorless and harmless.
Before work, the floor is dust-free and all window and door openings are covered. Each speck will be very noticeable under a layer of varnish. If you have an unvarnished cork from the manufacturer, you will need to apply at least three coats of varnish.
This method is much easier and for it you need the following tools:
Cork laminated coating Installed in the same way as conventional laminate. The base is cleaned of dust and then laid cork backing, the joints of which are treated with tape, and the installation process begins.
Laying rules
The first row is laid from whole planks. The missing part is cut off with a jigsaw. When laying, it is necessary to leave a distance of 1 cm between the material and the wall.
The second row begins with the trim that remains from the first. The row is assembled separately, and then moves to the previously laid one. The tenon is inserted into the groove at an angle, and then the row is lowered and compacted by tapping the hand. At long length premises, it is advisable to perform this work with a partner.
Note! Installation of cork laminate is carried out in the direction of the sun's rays.
The final row is cut one at a time, you will need to measure them separately. The entire trimmed row is also completed and snapped into place. Cork laminate does not require a protective varnish layer, as this is provided by the manufacturer.
The work is completed and you can enjoy your new, environmentally friendly flooring.
Cork is an excellent floor covering if you need a “quiet”, pleasant to the touch, warm floor. The installation of cork flooring varies greatly depending on the type of material chosen. Interlocking cork flooring is easy to install; adhesive flooring requires some knowledge. But you can handle both of them on your own.
Installing cork flooring without glue is not an easy task. It is complicated by the fact that the material is natural and there are shortcomings on the surface of some tiles during production. There are also differences in the size of the tiles (the discrepancy can be up to 1 mm) and thickness. Therefore, for self-installation, it is better to choose either the locking option - it is installed like a regular laminate. You can also put a cork bag, which is placed on the glue. But it’s better to take it with a chamfer - it will be easier. If there is a chamfer during installation, the different thicknesses of the tiles are not visible (the difference can be significant) and it is easier to work with the joints. But when purchasing, you need to take a large margin of material - about 10%: the displacement must be strictly the same, and this is an additional consumption of material.
In any case, you should carefully read the installation instructions - there are a lot of nuances that have a significant impact on the result.
Laying cork flooring requires careful preparation of the base. Suitable as a base for adhesive cork flooring concrete slab or screed leveled with a self-leveling mixture. They are also called . The compositions Vetonit 3000 or Osnovit T-45 have performed well, but similar ones can be used.
For adhesive cork flooring, manufacturers recommend achieving a perfectly flat base without any drops at all; for a locking floor, there can be differences of up to 2 mm per 2 meters (checked with a ruler, level or rule). In practice, it turns out that adhesive cork (cork parquet) fits normally even on not entirely level substrates. It is only important that the recesses/humps are very smooth, without steps, cracks, cavities, etc.
Laying cork can only be done after the screed has completely dried. Permissible humidity - no more than 5%. If you don’t have a device for measuring humidity, take a piece of polyethylene with an area of about 1 square meter and glue it to the base with tape. It must be glued tightly. Leave it for a day, then tear it off. If there is no condensation on the film, the floor has the required humidity, and a cork can be glued to it.
You can lay cork on such a base - it is smooth, dry, and clean.
Before laying, the base is thoroughly cleaned - first with a broom, then with a vacuum cleaner. There should be no debris or dust on the surface.
Wooden floors are leveled with “dry screed” - moisture-resistant plywood, fiberboard, gypsum fiber board. The sheets are laid “spaced out” so that the seams do not coincide. When laying, leave gaps of 3-4 mm between the sheets, the sheets are attached to subfloor using self-tapping screws. Their caps must be recessed into the material (if necessary, pre-drill holes).
Seams and holes are sealed with putty. It is better to take acrylic putty - it is more elastic than gypsum putty, and glue “lays” on it without any problems. After drying, sand the putty so that the entire surface is smooth. The base is cleaned of dust and can be primed to reduce glue consumption.
Installing cork with glue requires some tools. The set is not very large and does not require large material costs. Difficulties can only arise with a notched spatula - it must have a very fine tooth, and such are rare.
If you couldn’t find a spatula with a fine tooth, you can make one from a regular one using a file. The required depth of cut is obtained when you run the corner of the file along the edge two or three times. It won't take much time.
There are different laying schemes, including those with patterns. But they need to be calculated, and this requires certain knowledge and time. First DIY installation cork covering is desirable using the simplest offset schemes. It looks good and is ideal for gaining experience.
If glue plug For a floor without a chamfer, you can use a haphazard method. Usually at the end of the row the bar is not whole. The rest of it goes to the beginning of the next row. The same procedure continues, with the only limitation that the “spread” of the seams should be more than 15 cm. If it turns out less, lay this piece through the row or a little later. The result is that there is no pattern of displacement (well, almost), and the joints are almost invisible.
If you bought a cork floor with a chamfer, the offset should be clear - the boundaries of the tiles are clearly visible, therefore there should be order. In this case, an offset of 1/3 or 1/2 of the length of the bar is applied. The consumption with this method of laying cork flooring is higher and this should be taken into account when purchasing.
The tiles are unpacked (all packs) and left for a day at room temperature. During this time, the tile will take on “working” dimensions and subsequently no cracks will appear. By the way, there are requirements for “ weather conditions": humidity 40-70%, temperature from +18°C to +30°C.
While the tiles are acclimatizing, they need to be sorted. This material is made from natural raw materials and defects are common. When sorting you will need masking tape(paper) we use it to indicate the defects found so as not to have to look for them again. We sort the tiles into three categories:
Next to each “marriage” we glue pieces of paper tape - this will make it easier to find. There may be a lot of tiles with defects, but that’s okay - there will be a place for them. We glue those tiles that have slight deviations near the walls. There is usually no direct light and these flaws are not visible. Severely defective tiles are placed last in the row. We choose one so that the defect is under the baseboard, and the remaining piece without flaws goes to the beginning of the next row.
There is one more defect that is difficult to see in a separate tile, but it is very clearly visible in the installation. It happens that the decorative layer along the edge is sanded so that the backing shows through. We review all “good” planks for this deficiency. We place them in the first or last row along the wall so that the hewn edge is also under the baseboard.
There are also tiles of different thicknesses, so everything needs to be checked according to this criterion. We take a reference piece (you can cut it from a defective plank), place it on one side and the other, run your finger, checking whether the thickness matches. We set aside the thinner ones. We will place them closer to the wall, where the differences are not so visible. For thicker ones, sand the edges. To do this, glue a strip of medium-grain sandpaper to the standard, grain side down, and grind off the excess from the wrong side. The cork rests on the floor, the sandpaper removes the excess. As soon as the thickness is equal, we stop. After such preparation, laying the cork covering with glue will be easier.
It is better to start laying cork flooring from the middle of the room. We find the center, through this point we draw lines perpendicular to the walls (at an angle of 90°). In this case, we will lay the tiles along the walls. If you want to lay the cork covering diagonally, draw the lines at 45° in relation to the walls. It is easier to beat them off using a painting cord (an ordinary cord smeared in blue).
Typically, the long side of the cork strip is placed along long wall, but this is optional. Having decided how you will lay out the cork tiles, you need to check whether the last strip will be wider than 5 cm. To do this, “dry”, tightly lay out the tiles in a row on the floor - from wall to wall. The gaps at the walls should be more than 5 cm. If not, move the tiles so that the rule is followed. You need to check along the “narrow” - transverse side. Next, you can lay cork flooring, but the process itself is more complicated for cork parquet, which will be discussed further.
This is very important point. When laying cork flooring with glue, manufacturers usually recommend a specific brand. It is advisable to listen to their opinion, but it is quite possible to use a replacement of similar quality.
Solvent-based neoprene contact adhesive is used to install the cork. It “smells” very much, so it is advisable to work in a well-ventilated area, but it is better to have a gas mask respirator. Without means of protection there can be a strong headache, vomiting, hallucinations may occur.
One more thing. Glue and its fumes are very flammable. Therefore, no smoking or even the close presence of fire. Just one spark (short circuit, for example) leads to ignition. Even dried glue burns, but fresh glue generally glows over the entire surface. Therefore, handle it very carefully.
The glue is applied to the back side of the cork tiles with a velor roller and rolled out well in an even layer. It is poured onto the floor, then spread over the surface with a fine-tooth spatula. After application, the glue should dry for about 30-40 minutes (more precisely, see the instructions on the can), and the viability of the glue should be several hours, so there is time for gluing and eliminating defects. But it will no longer be possible to tear off the entire laid and “tapped” tile, so when laying the cork covering, we try it on well and only then begin to press it.
When coating the tiles, it is important to try not to stain front side- All stains show up under the varnish. If there are still stains, we remove them immediately after gluing with white spirit or another solvent for your brand of glue.
To make the work move faster, find a flat sheet (cardboard, fiberboard, hardboard, any other material) on which 5-10 tiles can be placed. Lay the tiles with the wrong side up, close to each other, joining the wide parts. You will get a path. We coat all the tiles at once and leave to dry.
Subsequently, to make the work go faster, it is better to have two boards on which the glue dries and coat two areas with glue on the floor. Wait 30-40 minutes each time - it will take a lot of time to install, and while the first one is installed, the second one is almost ready. We clean the freed board from glue, lay the next batch, coat it, etc.
Cutting cork is simple - use a sharp blade along a metal ruler. If the tile is thick (there are 4 mm and 6 mm), approximately 1/3 of the thickness is cut in one pass. If the cut is hidden by the floor with a plinth, we lift the bar, bend it along the cut line, it breaks. If necessary, you can help yourself with a knife.
Sometimes the cutting line has to be joined. Then you will have to cut it off with a knife. You will have to do this 2-3 times, and in order for the cut to be even, the ruler must not move. To do this, several pieces of double-sided tape are glued to the wrong side of the ruler. To prevent the tape from being too sticky, it is “powdered” with dust, mortar, flour, etc.
Next, the actual laying of the cork flooring begins. We lay the first row along the drawn line. It is very important to lay it evenly, without distortions or deviations. All joints must be absolutely even, so in the first two rows from the “no defects” stack, select tiles with absolutely the same dimensions. They can be laid out on the unpainted part of the floor, checking that the size and thickness match.
Apply glue to the selected tiles and wait the allotted time. Let's start installation. Lay one edge strictly along the line. With the first one, everything is simple: they applied it, pressed it with their hands, and tapped it with a mallet.
The next one must be placed so that its edge overlaps the laid tile by 1-1.5 mm. This way the joint will be tight and cracks will not form even later. To do this, we try it on, holding it in weight, making sure that it does not stick. When you are sure that the edge extends to the required distance, you can lower the far end, align the long side of the plank exactly along the line, and install the second end end-to-end. A wave forms near the junction. It will straighten out due to the elasticity of the tiles, but the adhesive cork floor will more closely resemble a continuous coating and there will be no gaps between the tiles.
Glue the laid strip from the far end, first smoothing it with your hand, then tapping it with a mallet. The last thing we do is lay the “wave”. It is nailed with a mallet towards the joint. The result is a very tight seam. We lay all other tiles using the same principle. They should feel a little cramped. Due to the resulting wave, we compact the seam, and in subsequent rows, due to the elasticity, we also correct the discrepancies in the size of the planks.
When laying the second and subsequent rows, we also compact the longitudinal joint by creating “crowding,” but not to the same extent. We place the plank tightly, with a slight bend, against the edge of the laid one, then lower the opposite edge (the joint on the short side is still with a wave). We carefully tap each tile over the entire plane with a mallet, Special attention paying attention to the joints.
We cut the tiles near the walls so that there is a gap of 5 mm. This distance compensates for the thermal expansion of the floor covering and it does not swell as the temperature rises.
Installing cork flooring is rarely without complications. It's usually difficult to get around pipes. Try to ensure that the joint of the tiles falls on them. If not, cut the cork in this place. but not straight, but obliquely, so that the upper front part rests on the lower one.
In any case, first we make a template from thick paper or cardboard. We lay the cork floor so that there is less than one tile left before the pipes, wait some more time for the glue to dry even better, otherwise the paper or cardboard will simply stick and cannot be torn off without damage. In general, we wait about an hour or a little more. Now the template will not stick tightly. We cut out a piece of paper (cardboard) to the size of the tile, then cut out from it what we should get. We attach the corks to the sheet, trace and cut them out, then glue them in place. It will take a long time, but it will turn out beautifully and without flaws. If something goes wrong, the flaws can be sealed with parquet sealant before varnishing.
After installation, the entire cork floor must be rolled using a pressure roller. This is an ordinary roller, but its mass is 50 kg and it tightly presses the coating to the glue. Since not everyone has such a device, you can try to replace it by carefully stomping on the entire surface yourself. The weight is no less, so there should be an effect.
The penultimate stage of laying cork flooring is installing a cork plinth. It is “tightly” glued to the floor covering, and then filled with varnish. Cork parquet laid in this way is absolutely airtight - a kind of trough is formed on the floor, the base of which is the baseboard. Therefore, we pay special attention to the fit - the joints must be tight.
The fitting process is not much different from installing a plinth made of conventional materials: the corners are filed using a carpenter’s miter box (how to do it correctly, read the article about ceiling plinth, but the floor one is also cut). A cork plinth adjusted to size is glued to the floor surface, but not to the wall. He just leans against the wall.
Cork flooring with a chamfer - so you don’t have to worry about visible joints
When choosing the length, the approach is this: cut it a little longer than necessary so that the joints are without gaps. After everything was cut, folded on a dry surface, the joints were checked (defects can be improved sandpaper) you can glue cork plinth. We spread glue across a strip along the width of the plinth on the floor, on the bottom side of the plinth itself, wait the right time, glue it in place, pressing it well with your hands.
Now the floor is almost ready. The installation of the cork covering with glue is completed, the final stage remains - varnishing. We leave the finished floor to dry for several days (usually 72 hours, but check the instructions for the glue) and for now we try not to walk on it - so as not to move or stain it. After the glue has completely set, you can begin varnishing.
The varnish is applied in a few words with a velor roller. The number of rollers is based on the number of layers. Before varnishing, carefully inspect the cork floor for defects. There will definitely be some - you laid tiles with flaws, and in addition, new ones may appear during the work: an edge has become wrinkled somewhere, a dent has formed somewhere, etc. After the first varnishing, all these defects are covered with parquet sealant. The first layer uses a lot of varnish, but a film never forms on the surface, but all the imperfections “come out” to the surface. We eliminate them. Please note that if the tile is already with a protective varnish coating(there are some), we use the sealant right away.
Take parquet sealant suitable color. Sometimes you have to mix several different colors to get the desired shade. We use it to fill up recesses, chips, etc. We immediately wipe off the excess.
After applying the first layer of varnish, be prepared for all imperfections to become more visible and the surface to become rougher. We fill in all the flaws, after the sealant has dried, use medium-grit sandpaper to smooth out the roughness along the entire plane of the floor. Remove the resulting dust with a vacuum cleaner and wipe with a damp cloth. After drying, cover with a second layer of varnish. We pour it without sparing it, filling in all the irregularities (chamfers, if there are any too). Sometimes this is enough (the floor is smooth), sometimes a third layer is required. If the next layer is needed, use sandpaper with a slightly finer grain to remove roughness, remove dust, wipe, dry, and varnish. Do this until the result satisfies you.
There is a separate article about varnishing at home. You can read it.
It’s not for nothing that this type of cork is called “cork laminate.” Laying - one to one. A substrate is required in exactly the same way, only it is better to use a cork one. The difference is that it is also recommended to lay a thick plastic film underneath. It is better if it is without seams, but it is possible to splice two panels together. To do this you will need double-sided tape.
Two canvases are spread with an overlap of 10-15 cm. The knock is glued with two strips of double-sided tape. This ensures a sufficient degree of sealing. This layer cuts off the possibility of capillary suction of moisture in case the ceiling gets wet.
A substrate is laid over the spread film, and a cork floor with locks is already laid on it. The whole process is similar to laying laminate, and it is described.
Flooring, the technology of its installation and laying with your own hands and much more.
Before choosing a flooring material, let's look at the types of cork flooring.
Advantages of cork flooring:
Disadvantages of cork flooring:
Despite all the disadvantages of cork flooring, there are rooms where this coating will look perfect.
The floor is also springy, which means that the child will have fewer injuries if he falls.
Cork flooring can also be laid in the bedroom, office and recreation room.
Today, there are three main options for laying cork flooring:
It is very important to install cork flooring in warm room at air humidity no more than 65%.
Below we provide a list necessary tools, for work: 
There are a number of important requirements for the subfloor on which the cork flooring will be laid: 
To install a cork floating floor, you will need a professional team of three people; you will not be able to install the flooring yourself. 
Below we will consider in detail all stages of work:
From our article, you learned what cork flooring is, in which rooms it is best to use it, and how the process of installing cork flooring occurs.
