Both the construction of new housing and major repairs in a house or apartment involve a considerable amount of electrical work. This includes organizing the introduction of a common power supply line, creating a grounding loop and potential equalization, installing a distribution board with an energy meter, laying in-house electrical networks and distribution boxes, and, finally, installing lighting devices and custom electrical fittings - switches and sockets.
By and large, this, of course, is a task for electrical specialists. However, many works can be carried out independently, provided that you home handyman there are basic concepts in the field of physics, electrical engineering, organization of internal electrical networks and skills in general construction and electrical installation work
Basic parameters for the correct installation of sockets and switches
It should be noted right away that finding exact uniform standards for the height of installation of switches and sockets is quite difficult, for the simple reason that they do not exist. Some references to existing “European standards” are just a desire to copy the established fashionable trend of “European renovation”, the established tradition of installing electrical appliances in Western Europe. By the way, installation standards existed for some time - it was they that guided builders when constructing residential buildings of mass multi-story buildings. Then all sockets were placed at a height of 900 ÷ 1000 mm from the floor surface (on level By the way, installation standards existed for some time - it was they that guided builders when constructing residential buildings of mass multi-story buildings. Then all sockets were placed at a height of 900 ÷ 1000 mm from the floor surface (on eye). In most apartments of old construction, such wiring can still be seen. Many homeowners are accustomed to it, consider it convenient and have no intention of changing it.
What explains these parameters is difficult to say now. Perhaps this was caused by safety reasons - all sockets with wires coming from them are always in the field of view of residents, and children cannot reach the switches. On the other hand, the most dangerous points - sockets - remain accessible to children, and there are no special safety considerations in this, but a child under 8 ÷ 10 years old cannot put out the light on his own. Other probable cause such an installation was always carried out in rooms on top of the walls, and such placement of switches and sockets made it possible to significantly save on cables (on the scale of mass construction carried out in those years, the savings were serious).
However, today the accepted European standards are more in use, rather than the traditions of installing these elements of electrical fittings. What are they?
Some construction guides give the following recommendations (taking into account planning during the construction phase of the house):
How is this convenient? Sockets and included power cables are not noticeable and do not spoil the appearance of the room, and you can turn the light on or off with your hand down. It is possible to teach children to be independent (with adult supervision, of course) - the switch is within their reach .
It is worth mentioning right away that such “standards” exist only for ordinary living rooms. In other places, for example, in kitchens, the rules will be completely different - this will be discussed below.
There are special requirements for installing sockets and switches in institutions associated with children - in schools, kindergartens, etc. There, in order to avoid uncontrolled actions of children with electricity by teachers or educators, these fittings are installed equally high - at a height of no lower than 1800 mm.
So, if we talk only about the installation height of sockets in residential premises, then any owner of an apartment or house has three options:
1 — When making repairs, do not change the location of sockets or switches, or carry out the initial installation according to the usual “Soviet standards” if this seems more convenient and safer.
2 — Redesign the arrangement of the fittings elements according to the European traditions, which were mentioned above.
3 — Provide your own location based on personal preferences and convenience - this in no way contradicts the existing rules.
There are significantly more restrictions and recommendations for other installation parameters - they are set out in the current operating rules for electrical installations (PUE), and they must be taken into account:
Special socket placed on the baseboard - right at floor level 
The optimal solution for apartments where young children live - sockets with protective curtains 
To finish the issue with the bathroom, you can add that you should not install sockets close to the floor surface. “Design” does not play a special role in such conditions, and it will be more convenient to use a hairdryer, curling iron or electric razor from an outlet located at a height of one or even one and a half meters. In this case, placing an outlet above the washbasin is absolutely excluded.
In any case, no matter how the electrical fittings are located, it will be necessary to replace the old sockets with new ones, the so-called “European format”. Their hole diameter is 0.8 mm wider than the old domestic ones, and the distance between the contact pins of the corresponding plug is also slightly wider. Such sockets can withstand much larger loads - usually they are designed for currents of 10 or 16 A, respectively, for a load of 2.2 kW or 3.5 kW, respectively. (For comparison, old sockets withstood 6 A, that is, only 1.3 kW, which in the conditions of modern saturation of human life with electrical appliances is clearly not enough).
In addition, if there are no outlets connected to the old location ground loop- you will have to deal with this closely - most modern electrical appliances have three-pin plugs with grounding to ensure the safety of users (for some powerful household appliances connection to ground loop is simply a prerequisite). Several are in a special publication on our portal.
Sockets, switches and frames
Once done general repairs, then it is worth checking the cable part - if the wiring is aluminum, it is recommended to replace it with copper, with a cross-sectional area of at least 1.5 mm². This cross section should be sufficient for fairly high currents. True, if you plan to install household appliances increased power, it will be necessary to lay more powerful lines.
| Core cross-section copper wire, mm² | maximum current at long-term load, A | maximum power load, kW | rated current actuation circuit breaker, A | current limit actuation circuit breaker, A | scope of application at home (apartments) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1.5 | 19 | 4.1 | 10 | 16 | lighting, alarm devices |
| 2.7 | 27 | 5.9 | 16 | 25 | socket blocks, floor heating systems |
| 4 | 38 | 8.3 | 25 | 32 | HVAC equipment, water heaters, washing machines and dishwashers |
| 6 | 46 | 10.1 | 32 | 40 | electric stoves and electric ovens |
| 10 | 70 | 15.4 | 50 | 63 | power input lines |
It probably makes sense to dwell a little on the correct placement of electrical wiring.
Each outlet (or outlet block) must be powered from its own junction box 
After some time, and this happens quite quickly, the location of such non-standard wiring is forgotten even by its masters. Moreover, this will be a “surprise” for the new owners of the apartment. When you try, for example, to harmlessly hang a mirror or shelf, there is a high probability that you will hit a live power line with a drill, with all the sad consequences - a short circuit and the need for large-scale wiring repairs.
If you plan to screed, then corrugated plastic pipes are sufficient If the wiring is flooded concrete screed, then it is usually placed in a corrugated plastic pipe.
There is no specific answer. You can find recommendations - install them 1 piece at 6 ÷ 10 square meters area. However, apparently, these “standards” are somewhat outdated, since the equipment of housing with electrical appliances is constantly growing. Therefore, it is probably advisable to think in advance about the placement of the main instruments and devices, to set a certain reserve in order to exclude in the future the use of all kinds of tees or extension cords. It is best if a plan is drawn up in advance with a fully thought-out arrangement of household items and the location of power points.
A well-designed diagram will be of great help in carrying out electrical installation work. If you plan, then it is better to refer to a special publication on our portal, in which this issue is presented in more detail.
Cables and wires for construction and repair
The kitchen is a special room for many reasons. Firstly, in terms of the degree of humidity and saturation with evaporation, it differs significantly from all other rooms. And secondly, modern kitchen– this is the center of maximum concentration of all kinds of household appliances. Many electrical appliances are used simultaneously during cooking or other household operations, so the level of total load is usually the highest here.
The table below shows the characteristics of the main kitchen electrical appliances - you can estimate the level of energy consumption when performing certain household tasks. If you consider that many of them require separate power lines, then you can imagine how many connection points need to be equipped in the kitchen (it is clear that tees in such conditions absolutely unacceptable and pose a serious fire hazard):
| Type of household electrical appliance | Average power consumption | Features of connecting to power supply |
|---|---|---|
| Electric stove or hob | from 3500 to 12000 W | Individually routed power line |
| Electric oven | from 2500 to 10000 W | similarly |
| Washing machine | from 1500 to 3000 W | similarly |
| Water heater | from 2500 to 7000 W | similarly |
| Dishwasher | from 1500 to 3500 W | similarly |
| Microwave | from 700 to 2500 W | Can be connected to a regular 16 A outlet |
| Refrigerator (peak value - only at start-up) | from 500 to 2000 W | similarly |
| Electric kettle | from 700 to 1500 W | similarly |
| Kitchen processor | from 500 to 1500 W | similarly |
| Bread maker, steamer, etc. | from 700 to 2000 W | similarly |
| Toaster | up to 1000 W | similarly |
| Kitchen hood | from 500 to 1500 W | similarly |
| Waste shredder | from 400 to 1000 W | similarly |
Obviously, a lot of sockets are needed. In addition, it makes sense to think about installing several additional switches - for example, for the one installed in kitchen sink waste shredder and for additional lighting of the workspace in the area of the cutting table, stove, sink.
Here there can be no talk about any standards for the installation height of sockets - their location should be Firstly, provide convenience, the ability to access when such a need arises, safety of use, maximum protection from moisture, for stationary equipment - concealed placement of wiring. There can be many options here - one of them is shown in the figure:
It is clear that there are many options for placing built-in equipment, and if we add to this the variety of desktop electrical appliances and the features of their use (for example, there are housewives who whose favorite kitchen accessories are constantly “registered” on the desktop), then, most likely, the spirit of absolutely identical schemes will not be found. Therefore, there can be no copying here - the plan for placing the equipment and laying out the wiring to it is drawn up by each owner individually, but taking into account general principles.
An important condition is that the total power of all lines supplied to the kitchen should, with a large margin, ensure the possibility of simultaneous inclusion of all points of consumption. In practice, of course, this should not be allowed under any circumstances, but insurance is still necessary.
Various models power outlets for 32 and even 40 amperes - used for high-power household appliances — On the wall, high up no higher than 100 mm from the floor level - this will allow you to place these fittings behind a standard removable furniture plinth.
- In the lockers kitchen set– provided that this piece of furniture does not have retractable or folding elements - shelves, drawers, brackets, etc., which could snag the electrical cable.
- On the walls under the sink - at the maximum possible distance from water supply and sewer pipes. In this case, the outlet must be sealed with a moisture-proof cover.
— On the wall above the kitchen cabinets. There are usually sockets for exhaust hoods, additional devices lighting, sometimes for built-in microwaves or refrigerators. The height of the sockets in this case is no less than 50 mm above the level top surface closet
Instead of such wall-mounted placement of socket blocks, special retractable or folding modules have now begun to be actively used - in the form of opening “books” or “columns” with sockets that slide up to connect.
Hidden socket block in the form of an opening “book” It’s very convenient - the wall surface is “clean” and appears only when needed, and even when using the device, the connection point is removed from the table surface.
Another option for hidden placement of sockets is a rising “column” What other principles should be taken into account when placing sockets:
When planning the installation of power lines in the kitchen, of course, you should proceed from the actual characteristics of household appliances. It would probably be better to contact an electrical engineering organization - specialists should help draw up a project taking into account all the nuances and safety requirements. Based on this diagram, it will be possible to draw up a drawing with the placement of sockets “on the ground” - to determine the places for making sockets building in the wall and cutting out grooves for them.
It is possible that it will be possible to save some money on laying lines. For example, if the total power of the washing machine and dishwasher does not exceed 4 kW, then they can be “placed” on the same power line with a wire with a cross-section of 2.5 mm². Often one line is enough for a refrigerator and a specific outlet group. However, conclusions should still be drawn by a professional in this matter.
Arrangement of a new or replacement old wiring is always associated with one important question: what should be the height of the sockets from the floor, and at what distance should the switches be installed. At the moment, there are no unified rules and regulations, so each individual case needs to be dealt with in more detail.
It is impossible to say that there are exact recommendations about where and at what distance the outlet should be installed in each specific case. The fact is that during the Soviet Union there was a GOST, which unconditionally specified the installation height of sockets and switches. In the first case, the figure was 90–100 cm from the floor, and in the second 150–170 cm. In fact, there was a rational grain in these values, because the switch was always at eye level and was visible, and in order to power any The device was plugged in, there was no need to bend down. In addition, this arrangement of power supplies made it possible to place furniture anywhere in the room, which is especially important in cramped living conditions.
Currently in many new panel houses you can still find this standard placement. The word “European standard” is common in our everyday life, but in reality such a unified concept does not exist. The fact is that each individual European country has its own rules for placing power supplies, not to mention the fact that some of them have, in addition, designs of sockets and switches that differ from ours. As a rule, the European standard refers to the installation of sockets at a height of 30–40 cm from the floor and the installation of switches at a height of 80 cm to one meter. Moreover, there are no recommendations regarding their location in the rooms. This arrangement of sockets is not very convenient, since you constantly have to bend down to turn on the device, but there are no wires hanging on the walls in the room.
As for Russian standards and regulations, such as PUE, GOST R 50571. 11-96, SP 31-110-2003 and others, there are several main positions that give recommendations on where sockets and switches should be installed:
Thus, there is no specific data that could indicate at what height to install sockets and switches, and there is also no information on where they should be located in relation to the placement of furniture in the room and the presence of certain equipment. However, this fact allows home owners to install power supplies in the place where it is more comfortable for them, and also makes it possible to install the number of them that they consider necessary. When designing electrical wiring, try to take into account all the nuances of the arrangement of furniture and equipment so as not to use it in household use unnecessarily network filters and do not load one outlet with several powerful electrical appliances.
The modern kitchen is not limited to the refrigerator and gas stove. Today you can find a microwave oven, an electric kettle, a toaster, a dishwasher and much more on it. But for each of these devices it is important to think through correct location sockets In addition, it is important to take into account the location of the furniture and the kitchen unit itself. And if you add to this water pipes and gas pipelines, then the issue of proper wiring becomes especially relevant. Before you begin work on arranging electrical wiring, it is necessary to draw up a detailed wiring plan with an exact indication of each point regarding furniture, windows, doors and communications.
In order to make sockets and switches practical and as accessible as possible, it is necessary to follow some recommendations based on many years of experience of electricians and home craftsmen. Firstly, it should be taken into account that a large number of equipment is currently produced with a fairly short cord length. These include a refrigerator, dishwasher, and stove. For these devices, the optimal location of the sockets will be at a height of 10–20 cm from the finished floor covering. Since they are constantly plugged in, this distance from the floor to the outlet will allow the cord not to sag.
To connect small kitchen appliances, such as an electric meat grinder, toaster, multicooker, mixer, etc., it is recommended to install sockets at a distance of 10–20 cm from the countertop. For them, it is also possible to provide power sources at a distance of 110 cm from the floor. In this case, it will be convenient to use them by placing them on the table surface. If the kitchen has built-in appliances, then the power sources should be located not directly behind the appliances themselves, but behind adjacent cabinets, and holes should be made in the rear walls of the furniture so that there is easy access to turn it off. Optimal height The location of the points is considered to be 30–60 cm from the floor.
When installing sockets and switches above the countertop, they must be located at a distance of at least 60 cm from the water source.
When installing a hood in the kitchen, the socket for it is mounted at a distance of at least 2 meters from the floor or 10 cm from the edge of the upper cabinets, and it is important to take into account the fact that the point should be located on the side of ventilation pipe, providing open access to it. Above upper cabinets kitchen set, you can place sockets for lighting fixtures built into the top row of furniture and for lighting the work area, if separate switches are not provided for them. You can also place a socket for a fan, if one is built into the ventilation duct. Thus, all sockets can be divided into three levels: lower, middle and upper.
This approach to arranging wiring allows you to correctly distribute points along the walls of the kitchen for their rational use. In addition, there is good opportunity lay out the wiring relative to the power of the devices used, because for some of them it is recommended to run a separate line to the electrical distribution panel. When working in the kitchen, it is important not only to determine correct height sockets and switches, but also to make a power reserve in case the kitchen is equipped with new equipment or replaced old technology to a more powerful one. As for the installation of switches in the kitchen, they are usually located on the side of the open part of the doors at arm's length, which is usually 80–100 cm.
A couple of decades ago, the issue of installing sockets in the bathroom was practically not discussed, but today it is simply necessary to have an socket in the bathroom, and their number is not limited to one. Judge for yourself, the first thing you need to do is to allocate a personal point for the washing machine, since using an extension cord to connect the equipment is not recommended in principle. It is advisable if a separate line is provided for it with the obligatory connection of an RCD on it. For greater convenience, its location is recommended at a height of one meter. This is done so that at any time it is possible to disconnect the device from the network.
In houses where a boiler is responsible for the hot water supply, a separate line with an RCD and an outlet located in close proximity to the device must be allocated for it. It is also allowed to install socket blocks above the countertop in the bathroom. They are used for hair dryer, electric razor and other small equipment. An important limitation when installing them is that they must be located at least 60 cm from the water source. All sockets in the bathroom must be equipped with grounding and a moisture-proof screen that will protect them from splashes.
When choosing a socket, you need to pay attention to the markings. It looks like this: IP XY, where X is the degree of protection against dust. Y is the degree of protection against moisture (for use in the bathroom you need to buy models with a number of at least 4). The current strength of the purchased product must be 16A. It is possible to install sockets with a parameter of 10A, but they can only be used for low-power equipment. When laying wiring to sockets, you must ensure that you use copper cable with three conductors (phase, neutral and ground) with a cross section of 2.5 mm.
The cable must be laid directly from the distribution panel, that is, a separate line must be allocated to the bathroom. Wiring is being laid in a hidden way– in grooves or behind drywall. This approach eliminates the possibility of accidental damage and contact with water. The installation of sockets in the bathroom should be preceded by a well-designed project, in which all distances will be measured to the nearest centimeter. Only in this case can you safely use the equipment and carry out water procedures.
Switches, as a rule, are never installed in the bathrooms themselves, but are located in front of the entrance to them. The installation height of switches usually starts from 80 cm.
Competent wiring in living rooms It will not only allow you to functionally enjoy all the benefits of civilization, but also protect yourself from numerous network filters and dangling wires. Unfortunately, in typical new buildings, and even in old housing stock, designers are limited to two to three outlets per room, which modern realities negligible. So there is an overload in the power grid, countless power outages. And what’s even worse is fires. Therefore, having thought about the design of the room, you definitely need to think about what height to install the sockets and where it is best to place them. After arranging your furniture in your sketch, place power points within arm's length of each area where you plan to spend your time.
So, let's look at the location of sockets and switches near the bed. Firstly, their number depends on the number of people who will rest on the bed. If this is a family bed, then it is necessary to place a block of sockets on both sides of it. Their distance from the floor will depend on several factors. If bedside tables are placed close to the bed, then it is convenient to place the sockets with a distance of 10–15 cm up from them. If there are no bedside tables, then choose any place near the bed at a distance of 30–90 cm from the finished floor covering.
Switches for overbed sconces and general light should be located next to the sockets in this block. If you plan to place lamps on nightstands near the bed, then you should definitely add an extra socket for them. This rule also applies to the location of sockets on both sides of the sofa in the living room. Sconces are rarely used in halls, but floor lamps are quite common, so an extra socket at a distance of 30 cm from the floor to connect the device will be very useful.
In addition to 220 V outlets, install special USB ports for recharging modern gadgets - phones, smart watches, etc.
For the TV, if it will hang on the wall, install a block of five sockets at a distance of 130 cm from the floor. Or 30–60 cm from the floor, if a place has been prepared for it on a low cabinet. The unit consists of 3 electrical sockets, an antenna socket and an Internet connection. Equipping workplace, you need to provide two socket blocks. The first is located above the surface desk(this is approximately 90 cm from the floor, and the second one is made only 30 cm above the floor). A desktop computer will be connected to it.
If you plan to install a dressing table in the room, which is especially important in bedrooms, then the same rules apply for them as for the work area - 2 blocks at a distance of 30 and 90 cm from the floor. When installing electrical wiring, do not forget to place several blocks of sockets around the perimeter of the room to connect a vacuum cleaner, humidifier and other devices. Switches are usually located at the entrance near the door, at least 10 cm from the opening and at a height of 75–90 cm. Some install switches on the corridor side. For greater convenience, do not forget to install duplicate (pass-through) switches to regulate the light, especially if your lighting is not connected to a smartphone or control panel.
When planning the wiring, you should not lose sight of such rooms as a balcony, hallway, storage room and the like, because the sockets and switches installed there play an important role. Let's start with the hallway - the first room that greets everyone who comes into the house. Here it is necessary to provide a light source. The height of this switch, like the others in the home, should be 75–90 cm. As for sockets, if the size of the room is small, then one double socket will be enough to connect a vacuum cleaner and a shoe dryer. If the corridor is elongated, then you can provide a block of sockets on each of its sides. Their distance from the floor is 30–40 cm, but if this is inconvenient for you, then you can choose this indicator yourself depending on your personal preferences.
If you plan to equip a work area or recreational area on the balcony, then you should also take care of arranging power supplies there. If you plan to place a desk for work, then, as already described above, install two socket blocks on different heights. If the room will be used only for recreation, 1–2 blocks of sockets at a height of 30 cm above will be sufficient.
If you plan to install an air conditioner in the apartment, then provide an outlet for it, 30 cm away from the ceiling.
Installing sockets and switches in an apartment according to European standards is not convenient for everyone. When installing wiring and determining locations for future power sources, first of all, rely on the design project of the room and personal needs.
Correct placement of sockets is very important to increase reliability, increase comfort and correct distribution of electricity in the room. Therefore, most people, when replacing wiring, ask a reasonable question: “at what height from the floor should the outlet be made?” Today we will try to comprehensively answer this question, providing all the necessary and useful information for you that may be useful when installing sockets in a residential area.
Naturally, young people strive for a more modern “European standard” in order to keep up with the latest fashion trends. The old guard prefers the “Soviet standard”, when the socket is placed at a height of about 1 meter, at waist level. It’s worth mentioning right away that there is no “European standard”. There is only a small list of restrictions that exist solely to ensure fire safety.
In the USSR, sockets were placed at a height of about 90 cm above the floor, which corresponded to the then standard. This method can compete with the so-called “European standard”, since it has many advantages:
This method is gaining increasing popularity in the post-Soviet space. The sockets are placed at a height of 30 cm from the floor, which also has some positive aspects:
The PUE regulates the placement of sockets as follows:
Correct placement of the outlet follows from following these rules:
There are no clear rules at what height sockets should be installed in the kitchen. But there is a certain standard that was formed on the basis of standardized sizes of kitchen furniture. According to this standard, sockets are placed on three levels.
First level. Standard height placement in the kitchen - 10-15 cm from the floor. Great for various electrical appliances, such as dishwasher, refrigerator, electric stove, etc.
Second level. Next come the sockets for portable electrical appliances: kettle, microwave oven, blender, etc. They require a height of 110 to 130 cm.
Third level. It is characterized by placement of sockets at a height of 200-250 cm. A stool may be required for easy access to them.
The bathroom is a place that is almost permanently high humidity. Therefore, for maximum safety, it is necessary to install the electrical outlet together with a splash-proof cover. The minimum height for the socket is 15 cm to prevent water from getting inside. All safety precautions and common sense must be followed during installation.
For ease of use of various devices, you can use the following socket height parameters:
In the bedroom, sockets are installed on both sides near the double bed to connect electrical appliances to the network without getting up. It is also recommended to place switches nearby.
At a height of 30 cm, a socket for a vacuum cleaner is installed, the cord from which should be able to stretch freely in any direction. Near the table there are sockets for a computer or other equipment.
Here everything depends on the owner’s imagination. The number of sockets is calculated so that it is enough for all the equipment that will be in a given room. But it is better to use several levels: first and second, in order to ensure convenient use of all electrical appliances.
Electrical sockets are installed at a height of 0.15-0.2 m above the table surface and 0.3 m above the floor. Other accommodation options depend on your convenience.
If you have an idea about how to install an outlet in an unusual way, it is better to first look at a photo of such an outlet location on the Internet. This will save you from possible problems.
You can install sockets in your home at your own discretion, but following the rules described above. Therefore, it is not necessary to adopt any of the standards. You can place sockets based on your own ease of use.
It is necessary to choose a placement that will allow you to use various electrical appliances without any problems. For example, the most convenient placement of bedside sockets is 70 cm. At this height it is quite comfortable to use a gadget that is connected to the network.
It is better to place sockets for the TV closer to the floor, behind the TV itself, so that the wires do not interfere with movement. Convenient location necessary in order not to use extension cords.
The key importance in choosing the location of outlets is safety and comfort. By following these two factors, you can simplify your life as much as possible. This should not be neglected. Good luck.
Installing a socket or switch is not so difficult - it is more difficult to decide on their location, because moving and dismantling it will be much more difficult when the repair is already completed.
When renovating a room, the question arises of the installation height of switches and sockets. Many craftsmen resort to such an installation method as the European standard. For some users, this is not only modern, but also comfortable.
In this case, the distance from the floor cannot exceed 90 cm. If we take into account the average height of an adult, then, when passing by such a device, you can easily turn it on or off by simply raising your hand to it, without the need to further bend or stretch it. But this does not mean that such a height and switches (European standard) is the only correct solution. This or that device can be placed at any level and place convenient for the user, while observing safety measures.
There are three main methods that are used when installing a switch.
Common in Soviet time, when the installation height of switches and sockets was approximately 160 cm from the floor. Users are accustomed to the switch being located at eye level, this rational approach when there is low furniture in the room.
This is also protection from small children who like to click them. IN in this case such pampering is excluded.
Eurostandard. The height from the floor to the installed switch is only 90 cm. This is very convenient, because when passing by, you can easily move your hand and press it.
Installation in the place where it is convenient for the user. Exist non-standard solutions in design and interior that do not allow the switch to be positioned according to generally accepted standards. Therefore, if there are no safety claims, the device can be installed anywhere.
Soviet approach. In this option, the height of the sockets from the floor is not less than 90 cm.
The European standard provides for the installation of sockets at a shorter distance from the floor - 30 cm. Moreover, this option is more comfortable, since it is more convenient to connect equipment and hide its wires.
When choosing an installation option, you should remember the purpose of the room and what devices will be connected. So, in the kitchen it would be wrong to place sockets on the floor, because all the equipment is located at table level. Therefore, it is more convenient to use the outlet at the same level.
Let us note one more nuance. Old style sockets do not always allow you to connect modern device. It is better to choose units of the European standard, then there will be no need to use adapters, which can lead to a voltage drop and fire.
The differences in sockets of the European standard and the Soviet one are in the diameter of the pins, while for the “Europeans” they are 0.8 mm larger. Also different distance between them. Naturally, the current strength is different. Soviet ones only have a range from 6.3 to 10 A, but European ones have a range from 10 to 16 A, which increases the possibility of using various equipment.
Users note a significant difference in the convenience of the “Soviet” installation and the European standard in favor of the latter.
You need to install a socket or switch in a place where it will be practical and comfortable to use, of course, without forgetting about safety precautions. Floor sockets are a viable solution only in the required location.
In rooms that have large area, you should install several switches to ensure maximum comfort of movement in the dark.
Care should be taken when installing sockets in sanitary facilities. They must be provided with a special device that protects against current leakage, that is, they must be grounded. It is advisable to take the outlet (for example, for a washing machine) outside the room.
Sockets in the kitchen deserve no less attention, especially in places where there is a large concentration of household appliances. The sockets need to be installed 5-10 cm higher than the tabletop.
A few extra outlets in the kitchen won’t hurt either, since there’s always the possibility that you need to connect a couple of extra appliances at the same time.
The number of switches and sockets in the house should be taken to be sufficient for the comfortable use of electrical appliances and lighting.
The installation height of switches and sockets in the kitchen is a separate issue, since there is high humidity and the risk of flooding.
For sockets from the floor 10 cm.
Sockets for built-in appliances should be installed no lower than 30 cm from the floor, but no higher than 60 cm.
The wire from the device to the outlet should not be longer than 150 cm.
The distance from the hood to the appliance should not be more than 20 cm.
If the socket needs to be installed under the sink, then its degree of protection against moisture must be appropriate (at least IP 44).
For other household appliances, sockets can be installed anywhere in the apron. But you should remember that it is prohibited to install them directly above the stove or sink, for drawer, for built-in appliances.
The now fashionable “European standard” is nothing more than something adopted from the masters Western Europe standards for installing sockets and switches.
But no documents are provided in this regard. There are standards that regulate the installation height of switches and sockets. SNiP 31-110-2003 is one of the documents in which the corresponding numbers are written.
It contains rules and some provisions for the installation of such building elements. It states that installing a switch in the apartment from the side door handle should not be higher than 1 meter from the floor. And the height of the switches is public place should not exceed 1.5 meters from the floor.
Sockets must be equipped with special protection against children, especially in rooms where their presence is expected for a long time. In schools, sockets must be located at a height of more than 1.8 meters from the floor. There is also GOST R 50571.11-96, which contains regulations on the installation height of switches and sockets in sanitary facilities.
High-quality installation of electrical switches and sockets is the key to safety and comfort. Purpose repair work improving the design of the entire room and providing access to devices.
Mostly, switches are carried out before finishing work begins. This brings with it the following significant advantages:
Significantly improved design.
You can increase the number of required sockets.
The location of the devices is selected taking into account the arrangement of furniture.
It becomes possible to install modern sockets, the boxes of which completely prevent pulling out together with the plug.
Hidden wiring and the selected installation height of switches and sockets contribute to the harmonious appearance of the room.
Wiring power and reliability are increased.
What should be the height of sockets from the floor in modern premises? The main requirement for this indicator is safety during operation of sockets and switches. That is, the height should be such that during use, sockets and switches are protected from mechanical damage and moisture.
Additionally, it is important to take into account the length of the wires of electrical appliances - the height of the power sources must be such that the wire is in a free position without tension.
Today there are no strict rules regarding how to install sockets and switches, which does not limit the flight of imagination of designers when developing exclusive projects. Nevertheless, certain standards established by the PUE will have to be adhered to, at least to avoid ignition of the electrical wiring.
The maximum height for the location of power sources is no more than a meter from the floor, for switches - 1.5-1.7 m from the floor. These standards were used back in Soviet times.
Nowadays, the location of sockets and switches more often involves compliance with European standards, taking into account the characteristics of the room and the vision of the overall picture by the owner and designer.
The height of sockets and switches is not categorical, but most often sockets are located at a distance of 30 to 40 cm from the floor, and switches - from 80 to 100 cm from the floor.
Both options have both advantages and disadvantages. Installation the old fashioned way with switches at shoulder level and sockets at a distance of 90-100 cm from the floor may seem most convenient to some. This option is as safe as possible for children.
As for the sources of electricity, in the “Soviet” version of installation they are more convenient because they are at an acceptable height - frequent switching on and off of devices will not require physical effort. On the other hand, devices that constantly operate from the mains without being turned off are best combined with power sources at a distance of 30-40 cm, which allows the wires to be masked.
The following rules will help you correctly design the distance and location of power sources and switches:
Use these simple tips, install sockets and switches, not forgetting common sense and most importantly - safety. And remember that a small error of a centimeter or two will not affect the final result.
Below we will consider rational options installation of switches and power supplies in premises depending on their purposes.
The kitchen is a room where sockets play a particularly important role, if only because all the work here is based on the use of electrical appliances. Every day in the kitchen they turn on and off the oven, microwave, blender, food processor, coffee maker, juicer and other important components of the comfortable life of a modern person. The refrigerator, dishwasher, and some have a stove and freezer are constantly running from the mains.
In order for the location of sockets and the height of switches to be rational, design must begin with creating an accurate kitchen layout that takes into account the location of furniture and electrical appliances.
There are certain standards for installing sockets in the kitchen, adhering to which you can achieve maximum convenience and safety in the room during the operation of electrical appliances:
If the kitchen has additional lighting in wall cabinets, then it would be correct to place sockets for them at a distance of 5 to 10 cm above them.
But for built-in equipment, in addition to the requirements regarding the location of sockets and switches, you need to take care of access to them without restrictions.
The peculiarity of the bathroom is a high and constant level of humidity. Therefore, the installation height of sockets and switches must be designed taking into account the basic requirements of GOST and PUE.
Obviously, sockets are installed at a certain distance from the shower stall and sink. The distance between them should be at least a meter. As for height, here you need to take into account average length cords intended for the operation of electrical appliances.
For built-in appliances (washing machine) - 20-30 cm from the floor.
Bedroom and living room
The best option in this case is to install sockets at a distance of 70 cm from the floor. This distance will allow you to use a bedside lamp without the discomfort associated with a lack of wire, charge gadgets, and adjust the lighting level right in bed.
It is important to consider the placement of additional power sources in work area and near dressing table, if there is one. At what height should the socket be installed in this case? A suitable height would be 30 cm from the floor near the desktop (a block of several sockets would be appropriate) and 15-20 cm from the surface of the dressing table for ease of use of small electrical appliances (hair dryer, curling iron, etc.).
In the living room, there must be several sockets behind the TV at a distance of one meter from the floor. Additionally, it will be necessary to provide sockets for other devices operating in the room, taking into account its division into functional areas. A backup outlet for an air conditioner, fan, humidifier or iron is always useful.
The Electrical Installation Rules (ELR), mentioned above, represent certain requirements for the installation of switches and sockets in different types of rooms.
Plug sockets can be installed:
Switches for main lighting should be located at a distance of 0.8 to 1.7 meters from the floor in ordinary premises, and in institutions for children - at a distance of 1.8 meters. A switch installed under the ceiling requires a cord to be connected to it.
In bathrooms, showers and other rooms with high humidity plug sockets can only be installed in hotel rooms and residential apartments. All switches and sockets in this case should be located at a distance of 0.6 meters in relation to the shower stall opening.
Plug-in power supplies in residential premises and places where children stay must be equipped with protective device, covering access to them when the plugs are removed.
The distance from sockets and switches to parts of electrical installations and gas pipelines should be 50 centimeters. Switches should be installed correctly on the wall at a height of up to a meter from the side of the door handle or under the ceiling with a cord.
An important point in conclusion: after completing the electrical installation work with connecting sockets and switches in accordance with the PUE, it will be necessary to carry out electrical measurement work. This will help to ensure safe operation of electrical appliances in the future and to identify possible failures in the operation of the electrical network.
