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Sooner or later the time comes when old toilet the apartment becomes unusable and has to be replaced with a new one. Most often, replacing a toilet may seem expensive to the average resident if a plumber is called out. However, armed with a certain set of tools and using some skill, you can replace the toilet on your own, and the recommendations below will help you carry out this procedure efficiently and at minimal cost.
Before replacing the toilet, do not forget to drain the water!
First of all, you need to decide whether it will be complete replacement unit, or, say, partial replacement of the toilet cistern. In the first case, you should start by choosing a model of a new toilet, namely by selecting a unit suitable sizes and configurations. Just like the old toilet, the new device must provide users with conditions of maximum comfort, therefore, immediately before replacing and installing the toilet, it is necessary to take measurements of the toilet, and taking these indicators into account, choose the model that will fit into the room correctly. Namely:
It should be taken into account that when replacing a toilet in an apartment, some models will move significantly forward due to the mounting features.
If you only need to replace the toilet tank, it becomes impractical to purchase the entire set (toilet plus tank). One way or another, any plumbing store can offer flush tanks of any configuration: built into the wall, installed on the toilet shelf, and also installed near the ceiling. You should choose from the presented assortment based on the characteristics of the room and your own preferences.
Now directly about replacing the old toilet. The whole process begins with dismantling the old unit. If we are talking about replacing a relatively new device connected to a sewer system from plastic pipes, there shouldn't be any problems here. But if, for example, you have to replace the toilet in a Khrushchev-era building, then everything is much more complicated.
In this case, a variety of difficulties may arise. Thus, dismantling the tank may be complicated by the poor condition of the fastening elements. Over many years of service, the mounting bolts rust, making their removal difficult. When dismantling the toilet itself, as a rule, similar problems arise with fasteners, as well as difficulties in disconnecting the outlet from the cast iron sewer. In those years, such connections were made by sealing tow with subsequent sealing with cement mortar. Of course, undocking such connections is a very labor-intensive process.
If, when replacing an old toilet with a new one, there is no need to maintain the integrity of the old unit, then the old toilet can simply be broken into several parts with a hammer. Only a qualified specialist can dismantle the toilet while maintaining its integrity. After all fasteners are disconnected, the most difficult task– the disconnection of the outlet from the sewer pipe has been overcome, you can begin installing a new toilet.
As a rule, the entire sequence of installing a new unit is described in the attached instructions, and the video about replacing the toilet presented on the website further clarifies the installation picture, so we will focus only on the key points.
So, replacing a toilet with your own hands at the stage of installing a new device includes the following steps.
Thus, this quick guide with a photo on how to replace a toilet will help you not only carry out the whole range of measures on our own, but also save on the services of a plumber, as well as gain invaluable experience in replacing plumbing fixtures.
The need to install new devices arises when carrying out overhaul or due to plumbing failure. Replacing a toilet with your own hands allows you to save a lot of money, and knowledge of the process will help you choose the best way its installation. In this case, the help of professionals is not required.
High-quality preparation for replacing an old toilet with a new one is the key to a successful result. First of all, you need to acquire a set of tools, building materials and detailed instructions for those who are doing this kind of work for the first time.
It is not always necessary to change a plumbing fixture if there are malfunctions in the sewer system. If water is constantly leaking from the tank in the bathroom, this is a serious reason to think about it.
When it drips onto the floor, and all the pipe connections are in order, then the cause of the problem is usually a chip or crack. In this situation, it is possible to eliminate the leak only temporarily - the toilet should be replaced as quickly as possible.
If water from the drain tank flows into the sewer along the wall of the bowl, then most likely the installation new plumbing is not required, since the cause of such a malfunction is most likely a leaky valve. Since everything internal elements For cisterns They are sold separately, they only need to be exchanged for new products.
Plumbing faience and porcelain are rather fragile materials that are characterized by instability to sudden temperature changes. The enamel can become covered with a network of cracks, spoiling the external aesthetic component of the device and threatening complete destruction of the bowl. If this product develops chips or other problems, the toilet should be replaced as soon as possible.
No toilet user can know exactly when ceramic coating it will not withstand and will burst under the influence of water currents, the weight of a person or as a result of internal stress. It’s good if the residents are nearby at this moment and one of them can quickly eliminate the emergency situation, otherwise the toilet of the neighbors living on the floor below will need to be repaired.
Another sign of a plumbing problem is the presence of unpleasant odor. Most often, it is caused by improper installation of the sewer system, as a result of which the drainage stagnates in the pipes. When everything turned out to be in order with the pipeline, and the earthenware is clean, the cause of the smell should be sought in the fact that the glossy coating has begun to deteriorate.
If the integrity of the enamel is damaged and the porous structure of the sanitaryware begins to come into contact with impurities, it begins to absorb unpleasant “odors.” It will not be possible to cope with these odors, since the destruction process is irreversible. In this case, it is impossible to do without replacing the old toilet with a new one.
Another important reason for dismantling old and installing new plumbing is the planned renovation of the bathroom. Few property owners decide to keep the same fixture when changing the design of their bathroom.
Since new, more modern products appear on sale regularly, updating a bathroom with replacing plumbing fixtures can transform its interior beyond recognition. Regardless of whether you select classic version or an unusual model from a catalog, the process of how to properly change a toilet occurs in the same sequence.
Before carrying out renovations in the bathroom, you should carefully prepare for it. You especially need to think about how to change the toilet in an apartment with your own hands when the residents continue to use the toilet.
IN in this case Plumbing fixtures should be changed as quickly as possible, but without proper organization carrying out repair work this becomes impossible. First of all, make a choice suitable model, prepare all the tools and Construction Materials, and then begin to implement their plans.
The most important thing before installing and dismantling the toilet is to purchase a new plumbing fixture. Depending on the selected model, a set of tools and materials is prepared to perform the replacement.
There are two types of toilets:
Floor-standing models are more popular and their choice is huge. They come in “compact” and “monoblock” types, with separate tank and bowl, as well as with a hidden drain system.
A monoblock is a product that combines a water tank and a bowl into a single system. In a compact toilet, these two parts are sold as a set and are connected during installation - this is the most popular option, presented on domestic market sanitary products.
A retro model, during installation of which the tank must be placed under the ceiling and connected to the bowl with a pipeline, in last years are becoming increasingly rare. In them, to flush, you need to pull a string or chain with a handle. Such plumbing fixtures look appropriate in a bathroom decorated in the appropriate style.
A modern solution is the arrangement of a hidden drain system. Before replacing an old toilet with a new one of this type, it is necessary to consider the construction of a false wall, behind which the flush tank with the installation system will be hidden. Externally, hidden models look very neat, since only the drain button will be located on the wall, and utility lines will remain hidden.
cup wall hung toilet not placed on the floor. It is hung on anchor bolts mounted into the wall. As a result, there is free space under the bowl and it can be used to advantage. This design is also advantageous from a hygienic point of view. It is not difficult to wash the floor underneath, but dirty residue often collects around the floor product.
Another important point that should be taken into account before replacing the toilet with your own hands is the direction of release from the bowl, which comes in three types:
The most popular option is to use a direct horizontal outlet. During its implementation, the toilet is connected to the sewerage pipe at the same level. The oblique release was used mainly during the years of Soviet multi-story construction, but it can still be found now.
As for devices with a vertical drain, they are usually used in homes in America and China. Its convenience lies in the fact that the toilet can be placed anywhere in the bathroom, and communications are laid in interfloor covering. This arrangement option can also be implemented in domestic sewer systems, but only in private households.
Before carrying out this type plumbing work Prepare in advance everything you need to replace the toilet from a standard set of tools. Its configuration may vary depending on the condition of the outdated toilet equipment that needs to be dismantled, as well as on the type sewer pipes and how to attach the new device.
You will definitely need the following tools:
You will also need personal protective equipment - special gloves and goggles. A hammer drill is used to create holes in concrete for dowels onto which a new plumbing fixture will be attached. An adjustable wrench is required for work related to connecting water supply lines.
When tightening the screws, use a flat or Phillips screwdriver, and to reliably seal the joints, use a gun into which a bottle of sealant is inserted. A hammer and chisel are used when replacing a toilet in a Khrushchev building with a cast iron pipe connected to an old sewer riser installed in Soviet years. To check the correct installation of the bowl, use a building level.
In addition to a set of tools, before changing the toilet with your own hands, you need to purchase building materials for installation, including:
When exchanging a toilet - an old product for a new one - the main point is to ensure a reliable seal. Any loose connection or gap may result in a leak. When connecting a plumbing fixture to the sewer system the best solution will use silicone sealant in the cylinder.
Before replacing a toilet in an apartment or house, you should purchase plastic corrugated pipe products to connect it to the pipeline that discharges wastewater. This product is convenient because it is flexible and suitable in most cases. When bending, the corrugation can take different positions, compressing and stretching. It is suitable for both horizontal outlet and angled outlet.
To seal the joints, use sealing tape or do it the old fashioned way, using tow. The set of fastening elements includes screws, bolts, dowels, nuts, washers, plugs for connecting all components and carrying out installation work. If any fasteners are missing, they can be purchased additionally.
To change a toilet with your own hands, first dismantle it. If the device is not too old, there are usually no problems with this process. When the model of plumbing and cast iron sewer pipes are still Soviet-style, in this case you will have to work hard.
If the device is not in very poor condition, the dismantling process will not be too labor-intensive:
In the past century, all installation work was done in such a way that the plumbing would last for decades. Until now, when replacing a toilet in a Khrushchev building, you can find a device mounted on cement mortar and embedded in a screed with rags wrapped around the base and finally covered with paint in several layers. In this case, its connection with the sewer pipe is covered with a thick layer of solution.
Now this installation method looks ridiculous, but until home craftsman there is no need to dismantle a rare device. In cases where ceramics are not a concern, the toilet bowl can be dismantled in parts. To do this you will need a hammer and chisel.
You must first knock at the junction of the bowl and pipe, while simultaneously rocking the mount. If the structure does not give in, you should hit the neck of the plumbing fixture and it will crack. After this you can remove it. The main thing is not to hit the cast iron pipe with a hammer, since it is fragile and will crack easily.
After you have managed to remove the toilet with your own hands, you can begin installing the new product. Depending on the model purchased, the installation process will differ. Installation of a plumbing bowl with floor option fastenings and attachments with a hidden tank are produced different ways. Cope with toilet installation work home handyman Detailed instructions may help.
In order to replace an old device with a floor-standing product of the “compact” type when installed on a tiled floor, you need to use step by step description How to replace a toilet yourself:
Finally, check all joints, as well as threaded connections for leaks. If no deficiencies or deficiencies are found, you can use new plumbing equipment.
The process of how to change a toilet of this model yourself is simple, since modern products are designed in such a way that when they are replaced, the floor covering remains intact.
It should be noted that the work regarding how to change the toilet yourself conventional design for a suspended product with a hidden drain container, differs from the previous version in greater complexity. In this case, it will be necessary not only to replace the plumbing equipment, but also to repair the floor covering, build a false wall with its further finishing tiles or other modern materials.
You have to attach the hanging bowl to a durable installation. After finishing the walls, fixed metal carcass will not be visible. When carrying out renovations in a combined bathroom, when decorating the interior, it is advisable to install a wall-mounted washbasin and a bidet of a similar design.
A detailed description of how to change a regular toilet to a wall-mounted one is as follows:
Despite the fact that the process of replacing an old toilet with a wall-mounted product takes a lot of time, the result of such a repair looks stylish and expensive. The work of installing an electronic plumbing fixture with the addition of automatic hygiene functions has much in common with fastening and connecting a conventional product, but there are still some nuances.
The fact is that to connect a smart toilet hanging type it is necessary to provide its power supply. For this purpose, a separate line is usually laid, since smart equipment is sensitive to voltage drops in the network.
Before changing the toilet in an apartment or house, you need to carefully study the instructions of the manufacturers of these products. It is almost impossible to avoid mistakes when dismantling and installing plumbing fixtures in the absence of relevant experience.
There are several types of plumbing work, during which novice craftsmen perform incorrect actions. Knowing them will help you avoid unpleasant surprises during installation activities.
To prevent liquid from stagnating in the sewer pipes, it is necessary to maintain a slope when installing the drainage system. According to building codes and regulations, it should be from 3 to 5 percent in the direction of the sewer riser. If the question is being considered not only of how to change the toilet, but also of moving it to another place, this should not be forgotten.
When moving the bowl of the device 1 meter from the riser, it must be raised by 3 - 5 centimeters. And this rule applies to every meter by which plumbing equipment will be displaced. Provided that building codes are followed, there will be no problems with the functioning of the sewer riser.
Some property owners rush to replace the toilet at the very beginning of the bathroom renovation. Experts advise avoiding such actions if possible. The fact is that earthenware plumbing is fragile and during further construction work in the room there is a high probability that it will be damaged. Therefore, it is advisable to change the toilet with your own hands as a last resort.
If a bidet is already installed in the bathroom, the hanging bowl should be positioned flush with its top edge. Only in this case the plumbing fixtures look harmonious in the interior of the room and are convenient to use.
When replacing sewer pipes, inspections must be installed. Access to hatches should always be free - you can use aesthetic doors to cover them. This requirement should not be neglected, since in case emergency situation you will have to use revisions.
Replacing an old toilet with a new one without the help of a professional is quite risky, especially if you have no experience. At self-installation When it comes to plumbing, the main thing is to take your time and follow the instructions.
Capital or redecorating toilet room It is rare to do without replacing the toilet, because the reason for this procedure can be not only its deplorable technical condition, but also its obsolescence. At the same time, people are interested in the question of how to change the toilet themselves not only for the purpose of saving money, but for the purpose of personal control of the quality of the operation carried out by hired workers, because A toilet is a rather fragile thing, and its incorrect installation may not be detected at first glance. The skills to independently replace a toilet will also be needed in the event of force majeure circumstances related to the performance of the plumbing.
Before you change the toilet completely yourself, you need to complete a whole range of preparatory measures:
After checking that there is no water in the water seal and the toilet tank, as well as preparing the tools, you can dismantle the toilet.
To change the toilet yourself you will need a whole set of tools:
The toilet is cleaned, the space is freed up, the tools are prepared - this means you can dismantle the old device and install a new one.
Important: In any case, the operation of dismantling an old toilet often turns into a “punitive operation” of an unwanted plumbing fixture. Wherein Special attention pays attention to the integrity (there should not even be cracks) of the sewer insert, otherwise it will have to be replaced with the possible replacement of the entire riser. In addition, it is unacceptable for ceramic remains of the toilet bowl or other large-sized debris to enter the sewer system. Therefore, hammer blows on cast iron, steel or plastic communications are not allowed, and the walls of the pipe are cleaned carefully, blocking the passage with a large polyethylene plug.
When considering the question of how to change a toilet quickly, but still independently, you must remember that the process itself may take several days, because one thing is replacing a toilet in an already renovated room (i.e., only replacing a similar device), and another thing is This is the refurbishment of a toilet with the installation of another modification of the toilet. Therefore, the installation of a new device can have two outcomes:
1. Simple replacement of plumbing fixtures with similar ones, when the dimensions and design for connecting communications are the same. To put the toilet into operation, it is enough to attach it to the floor with a specialized kit mounting bolts, install the tank with its secure fastening (do not forget to place the rubber seal correctly), assemble and configure the fittings for automatically filling the tank with water, connect the water supply and sewerage communications.
2. Installation of a new device with modernization requires preparatory work:
It is necessary to check and coordinate the selection of adapters on the methods of connecting communications, for which flexible water hoses and sewer adapter pipes with rubber seals are selected. It is necessary to pay attention to the length of communication connectors, which should not be small. To simplify the sewer connection, corrugation is often used.
The end of the process is the attachment of the toilet to the floor and its complete assembly with the connection of all communications. Organize the initial start-up of water by smoothly, partially opening the tap, because... Leaks may be detected, which will require immediate shutoff of the water.
Advice: To improve the sealing of communications in areas of prefabricated units, use silicone sealant, just do not forget that it takes time to cure, so you will have to wait a couple of hours before operational tests.
We all want this unpleasant moment to come as late as possible, or even to bypass us altogether - when we have to replace the toilet because it is becoming unusable. Oddly enough, you can easily do the work yourself, although you will need minimal skills in working with a drill or hammer drill. It's good if you know how to lay tiles or fill screed. But even if you haven’t had to do this, if you have a strong desire, you can learn it from videos on the Internet. We will look in detail at how to replace the toilet with a new one and what you will have to pay attention to.
A toilet like this adds style and sophistication to the bathroom.
Today there are a great many various models toilets that can satisfy the most sophisticated tastes and needs of customers. No matter which one you buy, it will still not affect the final result of the installation. Here's what you'll have to consider to ensure the result exceeds all your expectations:
Let's say it like it is - remove it old toilet It won't be easy to do it yourself. There are rare occasions when it is not too securely in place and all you need to do is disconnect it from the water and sewer supplies. But if you ordinary apartment c, then things are not so smooth, since, as a rule, the toilet is walled up in the floor, and it is not possible to get it out of there. Then you will have to break the toilet with your own hands.
Use construction gloves, because broken ceramics sharp corners and you may cut yourself when cleaning up the shards from the floor. In addition, use safety glasses to prevent small debris or dust from getting into your eyes.
When dismantling the cast iron tee, note that it has one outlet with a diameter of 10 cm for the toilet and 7.5 cm for other sewer pipes. Since you will be replacing the pipes with plastic, you will need a 5 cm bend so that you do not have to install a reduction in the tee. You can replace such a tee due to its large dimensions - a plastic one will be more compact. You need to remove it carefully by loosening it so as not to accidentally damage the one standing on it. sewer riser intermediate tee.
Toilet replacement process
Of course, you remember that if you have ceramic tiles on the floor, then the floor must be level. If you neglect this detail, the toilet may split or crack. But if you don’t have tiles, then be sure to make smooth screed. After completing the work, leave the floor to dry for at least three days. This is due to the fact that the toilet will be mounted using toilet dowels, and in order to securely fasten them, you will need a reliable base. So it’s better to take your time than to redo it later.
Since you are replacing the toilet yourself, you can now proceed to preparing communications:
Work on fixing and installing the toilet proceeds as follows:
That's all the subtleties of replacing a toilet. In conclusion, I would like to note the following: if you find out another way to change a toilet with your own hands, this does not mean that it is wrong. There are simply always several methods for solving a particular issue.
Now we will show in all details the process of replacing an old Soviet toilet with a new Russian one. Look what we have at the moment:
The toilet is a Soviet type, connected to a cast iron sewer, buried in the floor. We will dismantle this toilet and put a new one in its place.
This three way faucet will be connected to washing machine and a toilet hose. Let's start by removing this old blue toilet.
You can see the numbers on the toilet: 1989 is the year of its manufacture. It is inserted into cast iron sewer. Our task is to break it there in order to remove it from the cast iron, and also to beat it from below in a circle in order to simply remove the toilet from the floor.
At the entrance to the cast iron we hit it with a hammer, and break it from below with a hammer drill.
The old toilet was taken to the trash heap. Now our task is to remove all the debris and free the entrance to the sewer from fragments of the old toilet and cement. We knock out the whole thing with a hammer and chisel so that the cast iron becomes clean.
They knocked out large pieces of the toilet bowl, plus it was sealed with cement and plaster, and cleaned the socket with a knife. The cast iron must be clean, without cement, because the cuff will be inserted here. If you don't clean it completely, the cuff simply won't fit. Try not to get large pieces of what you knock out into the sewer. Small ones are still possible, but large ones can do a lot of things.
Here's what we bought at the store for work. Firstly, 5 kg tile adhesive to fill the hole from the old toilet. Secondly, the cuff, here is a black transition to cast iron:
We will stuff this cuff into cast iron pipe. There’s also this short corrugation and eccentric cuff:
Let's see which of them is better suited for connection. The fact is that the owners bought this long corrugation:
These are usually sold in stores. If we put it up, the owners will simply press their knees against the door. Maybe the door won't even close. Therefore, we will install either an eccentric collar or an imported short corrugation. Let's see what will be better in our case. We coated the bottom at the entrance to the sewer with sealant so that nothing would leak from there:
Use a hammer to hammer in the black transition collar. After it stands up, you can mount modern communications. This is what it looks like with the cuff:
Now you can insert the 110th plastic modern sewer or corrugation directly into this black cuff. Everything will be fine. Now let's measure the corrugation.
This is how we will connect the toilet to the sewer:
The eccentric collar fits here fine. We'll push it in deeper and coat it with sealant to make sure - and everything will be fine. The eccentric cuff fits here perfectly to prevent the toilet from moving forward.
We take a marker and mark where the toilet will stand, as well as the places where we will screw the bolts.
Here are our marker marks. We measure the distance from the line to the toilet hole.
Here is the hole where the bolt will be inserted. We mark them on the floor, where we will drill holes for dowels. We marked two holes, one of them was in the pit.
We have an installation kit that the manufacturer provides for the toilet, that is, two short bolts and two 8 mm dowels.
All this will not suit us. One bolt, which is not in the hole, will still be of sufficient length, and the second, which is in the hole, will definitely be short. Therefore, we will use different bolts and different dowels. We have normal dowels from our stock.
One bolt, which is longer, will be screwed into the hole. Here are two normal dowels, 10 by 70 or 10 by 60. They hold well thanks to the protrusions, do not rotate, and what is good about them is that they have a wide entrance hole, it is easy to get into them with a screw. Now let's start the actual drilling. Since we will be drilling into tiles, and we don’t have drills or drill bits for tiles, we only have a hammer drill, we will drill gradually.
First, a five-point drill, we use it to go through the tiles, but we don’t drill into the concrete. Then a 6 mm, 8 mm drill and final drilling with a 10 mm drill. Naturally, we will drill without beating, so as not to split the tile. Then, when we drill through the tiles with a dozen, we can already drill through the concrete with beating. Let's show stasis the finished result:
The tiles are Soviet, they went through without any problems. Modern tile sometimes it can be very difficult to drill, sometimes you just can’t drill at all if it’s porcelain stoneware. You can’t take porcelain tiles without a drill on tiles. We quickly drilled everything, installed two dowels, now we need to fill the hole left from the old toilet tile adhesive or whatever you have: cement, cement-sand mixture. This hole is in our way; one side of the toilet fits right into this hole.
It happens that the hole does not interfere, then the new toilet is simply placed on top. In this case, the hole is very disturbing to us, so we will cover it with tile adhesive. It turned out like this:
The hole was filled with cement, leaving only the place where the screw would be screwed in and where the dowel would be.
The preparatory stage is completely completed, we are starting to assemble. What does our toilet, the so-called “compact”, consist of?
Toilet fittings, which are installed in the tank, drain and filler:
And the cover:
We need to put all this together, then install it on our bolts that we have prepared, and when the tile adhesive dries, we can use it. Let's start assembling. We take a bag of fittings, this fittings are from Kirov, the so-called “Kirovskaya”. It is of normal average Soviet quality, works for about five to six years, then requires replacement.
Usually the float requires replacement, but the drain can also be replaced.
Let's start with the drain. This part is installed on the tank, screwed on, and the drain valve is simply snapped into it from above:
Fill valve or float:
Bag with all accompanying accessories. Nuts and gaskets for the float, for its installation, this nut is screwed here:
This is a gasket that is placed between the tank and the toilet:
Flush button and mounting kit for attaching the tank to the toilet:
Instructions, passport. Now we will show you how to mount all this fittings on the tank. Here is our tank:
This is a big plastic nut. The gasket comes here, it is inserted from the inside into this central large hole and tightened from below.
Tighten by hand and add a little wrench. This thing then just snaps on top:
Now we need to mount the float. Its installation kit includes a nut that is screwed from below, a gasket for the float itself and this filter:
Insert the filter here:
It will retain rust and various dirt that flies from the water supply. Then we insert the cone gasket with the cone down onto the float:
We insert the float into the hole, it is specially designed for it:
We insert it and secure it with a nut. First we tighten it by hand, then another quarter turn or a little more tighten it with a wrench - and that’s it, the float won’t leak. This completes the assembly of the tank.
The next step is to screw the tank to the toilet. These bags contain an installation kit for connecting the tank and toilet:
We put such a plastic washer on the screw, then we put a conical gasket:
We insert the screw into the tank from the inside into these holes:
We insert it so that the gasket is pressed and water does not leak. Thus we assemble two bolts. Then we move down. We put a rubber gasket on the bottom, then a plastic gasket, and screw it all in with a nut.
The most important thing here is not to over-tighten. If you overtighten, your tank will simply crack, and you will run to the store for a new tank. Now we will show all this. Everything is ready to install the tank, put the gasket here:
It serves to seal the connection between the tank and the toilet. Then we take our two ready-made bolts, which we will use to fasten them from below. We take the tank itself, install it, insert the bolts into the holes, and place them level. If you place them unevenly, the white gaskets may also be placed unevenly, in which case they will leak later.
So, now you need to screw this mounting kit from below:
First we put on the rubber gasket, then the plastic gasket and nut. We support the screw from here, we insert everything here.
There is no need to rush here, this is a responsible matter. The rubber gasket was inserted, the plastic gasket was inserted. Of course, it is better to do this work together, but you can do it alone. We tighten the nut as far as possible by hand, then tighten it with a wrench. Also the second bolt. To tighten the bolts we use a regular 10mm wrench and a 10mm tubular wrench:
In this case, the bolt heads are 10 mm in size. We do this: we place a regular box wrench on the bottom and tighten it with a tubular wrench on top.
You need to tighten it until the tank stops wobbling. You can’t overtighten it too much, otherwise it will simply crunch. Now we will show what happened in the end. Top view: one bolt, second bolt under the float.
Here is the installed float, the installed counterpart for drain valve. Now the bottom view: the lower part of the float, this is where the inlet hose will be attached:
One bolt with a tightened nut and the second, also tightened:
Make sure the bolts are tightened evenly so that the tank sits level. Here the distance should be the same everywhere, the gasket should be pressed so that water does not flow here.
We have installed the tank, let's start installing the toilet.
Naturally, our floor is uneven. We spread a little glue along the perimeter of the toilet along the mark to compensate for the unevenness of the tiles.
We take the toilet itself, insert it into the sewer, align it with the marks and screw it on. We press down the toilet a little so that the excess tile adhesive comes out.
This is how we placed it according to the mark, now we need to drive it in and tighten the bolts. It's done like this. Here is a bolt and a gasket so that the toilet does not crack if you overtighten it. Decorative hat on top:
Prepare a long bolt for the right side and a short one for the left. We are looking for holes to get into the dowels. As we have already said, we have special dowels, they are easy to get into.
Here is the prepared screw, on the other side exactly the same. Screw it on. We have a special tool for this.
Here's a ratchet for quick screwing, with a 10 mm head. There is also a regular 10 mm wrench, which we simply use to reach the right moment.
The toilet stands and does not wobble. The final assembly remains. What does this mean?
We connect this hose to a three-way tap:
At the bottom of the tank we connect it to the bottom of the float, then install drain fittings, lid with button, toilet lid:
That's it, the owners can use it. Of course, the cement must dry, this will take about 5-6 hours.
Look what a wonderful toilet it is, how wonderfully and professionally it was installed.
The last stage remains - hydraulic tests. We supply water and check that it is not leaking from anywhere. The leak can, firstly, come from the three-way tap where water is supplied, and secondly, from under the bolts that secure the tank to the toilet, from under the gasket between the tank and the toilet, and from the inlet to the float. Now we will check all this. Open the tap cold water– the toilet began to gurgle and water flowed into the tank. The float worked and the water pressure stopped. We check under the toilet, where we have two bolts. They shouldn't be wet. The floor is dry, the bolts are fine, the water supply is also dry. Now we flush the toilet and check that there is no leakage from behind the toilet, under the toilet and from the front. Nothing leaks anywhere, you can put covers on, and when the cement dries, you can use it. This is how we dismantled soviet toilet, and in its place they put a new Russian one.
All rights to the video belong to: Master Lancaster
