Instructions
First of all, choose the wood depending on your purpose. Linden, aspen, poplar, willow, and alder are suitable for storing honey. Oak is best suited for pickling, pickling or soaking. For other needs, beech, spruce, fir, pine, cedar, larch or birch are used.
Blanks or rivets are made from raw wood, from the lower part of the trunk. Radially split the lump of wood, which is 5-6 cm longer than the future stave, into blanks 5-10 cm wide (for sweet clover 15 cm) and 2.5-3 cm thick. Then store the blanks for a month or more in a room with natural ventilation for drying.
Treat the dried workpieces with a plow and plane, first with outside, checking the curvature using a template taken from the finished product. Then process side surfaces with a jointer, also taking into account the curvature according to the template, and internal ones, to reduce the thickness in the middle, with an ax.
For the taper of the tub and the convexity of the barrel, the size of the stave expansions has a ratio of 1.7-1.8 between the widest and narrowest parts. For a tub, the lower end is wider; for a barrel, the middle of the stave is wider.
To make hoops, take a hot-rolled steel strip 1.6-2 mm thick and 30-50 mm wide. To calculate the length of the future hoop, add twice the width of the strip to the dimensions of the barrel at the screed site. Bend the tape into a ring, punch or drill holes and rivet with soft steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm.
Flare one edge of each hoop with a hammer on an anvil. Based on their location on the barrel, the hoops are called as follows: the central one is “onion”, the outermost one is “morning”, the intermediate one is “neck”.
Collect at flat surface, pressing two rivets against each other to the morning hoop with staples. Then, one by one, we insert the next rivets, assembling the first half of the barrel, and also the second half. Tapping with a hammer, we push the hoop until the edges of the rivets are tightly connected.
If there is a gap that the last stave won't fit into, don't be afraid to trim it to the desired width, or remove another narrow stave and insert a wide one.
Trim the ends of the frame with a hammer, put on the onion hoop and push it in until it stops using a hammer. With the base level, tighten the other edge of the frame with a rope loop with a lever. Having installed the second morning hoop, level the ends of the rivets with a humpback plane, 2-3 mm from the hoops.
From one edge of the frame, use a mortar to make a groove with a depth and width of 3 mm with inside, into which you will subsequently insert the bottom.
Assemble the bottom from boards fitted at the edges, pinning them together with staples, and then cut them along a pre-drawn circle. Insert the bottom after slightly loosening the hoop, adjusting the tightness of insertion and pressing with light blows of the hammer. The second bottom is also inserted on the other side, with the only difference that a filling hole with a diameter of 30-32 mm is first drilled into it, to which a plug is fitted.
What can be compared to, for example, a cucumber or a tomato pickled in an oak tub? And honey is perfectly stored in a linden barrel, Apple juice, you can cook kvass in it. Finally, an oak tub with a lemon or laurel tree today will not spoil the interior of even a city apartment. You just can’t find these simple products either in the store or on the market. But you can make a barrel yourself, and although this task is not an easy one, an amateur craftsman is quite capable of handling it.
Rivets
First of all, you need to choose wood. Oak and pine are not suitable for storing honey - honey darkens in an oak barrel, but in a pine barrel it smells like resin. Here we need linden, aspen, plane tree. Poplar, willow, and alder will also do. But for pickling, pickling or soaking, there is nothing better than oak - such a barrel will last for decades. For other needs, you can use sedge, beech, spruce, fir, pine, cedar, larch and even birch.
Usually the lower part of the trunk of old trees is used for rivets; it is called “riveter”. But a tinkerer will choose blanks from ordinary firewood and adapt a thin trunk to the job. It is best to make rivets from raw wood. First, the block of wood - it should be 5-6 cm longer than the future rivet - is split in half, gently tapping the log on the butt of the ax. Each half is then again split into two parts and so on, depending on the thickness of the chock (Fig. 1), in order to ultimately obtain blanks 5-10 cm wide (for sweet clover - 15 cm) and 2.5-3 cm thick. You need Just try to keep the split radial - this will protect the riveting from cracking in the future.
The chopped pieces are dried in a room with natural ventilation for at least a month. To speed up the process, you can use a dryer. The dried workpiece is processed with a plow or sherhebel and a plane. First, the outer surface of the riveting is planed. In this case, to check the curvature of the surface, you should make a template in advance (Fig. 2), cutting it out of a thin plank along the already finished product. Next, the side surfaces are planed, also checking their curvature against the template.
The riveting can be tubular - in which one end is wider than the other, and barrel - with an expansion in the middle. The magnitude of these expansions determines the taper of the tub and the convexity of the central part of the barrel. It is enough if the ratio between the widest and narrowest part of the riveting is 1.7-1.8 (Fig. 3).
Processing of the side surface is completed by jointing. It is more convenient to do this by moving the workpiece along the jointer (Fig. 4). At the next stage, we process the internal (in relation to the finished barrel) surface of the stave, cutting off excess wood with a plane or even an ax (Fig. 5). After this, the barrel stave can be considered ready, but the barrel stave still needs to be thinned to 12-15 mm in the middle (Fig. 6). Don’t be confused by the fact that the rivets can have different widths - we take the best we can from each piece.
Hoops
Barrel hoops are made of wood or steel. Wooden ones are not so durable, and they are a hundred times more hassle, so it is better to use steel ones. The hoops are made from hot-rolled steel strip with a thickness of 1.6-2.0 mm and a width of 30-50 mm.
Having measured the barrel at the place where the hoop is tensioned, we add double the width of the strip to this measurement. Using a hammer, we bend the workpiece into a ring, punch or drill holes and install rivets made of soft steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm (Fig. 7). One inner edge of the hoop must be flared by striking the pointed end of a hammer on a massive steel stand (Fig. 8).
Based on their location on the product, hoops are divided into fart hoops - the central hoop on the barrel, morning hoops - the outermost hoops, and neck hoops - the intermediate hoops.
Assembly
A grandmother brought a crumbling tub to a handyman with a request to put it back together. Tom had never had to do this before, but he did not refuse the old woman. I came up with the following: I threw a rope on the floor and laid out the rivets on it one after the other. Then he pressed them down with pillows and pulled the ends of the rope together. Gradually removing the pillows, I brought the outer rivets together and secured them with a hoop.
Coopers make it easier...
The product is assembled on any flat surface. First, two rivets are attached to the hoop opposite each other with special staples bent from hoop iron (Fig. 9). Then, by attaching rivets to one of them, we will get to the other, which will tighten the assembled half of the barrel. Continue assembling until the rivets fill the entire perimeter of the hoop.
Lightly tapping the hoop with a hammer, we set it down and check whether the edges of the rivets meet tightly. To achieve contact between the rivets over the entire side surface, you need to add a rivet or pull out an extra one and then install a permanent hoop. By the way, if changing the number of rivets does not give the desired effect, you just need to narrow one of the rivets or replace the narrow one with a wider one.
Having leveled the ends of the frame with light blows of a hammer, put on the middle hoop and push it until it stops using a hammer (Fig. 10).
Having placed the frame on a flat surface, we describe the cut line with a pencil using a block (Fig. 11). Having installed the morning hoop, we cut off the frame 2-3 mm from it and clean the ends of the rivets with a plane. We do the same with the other end of the frame.
When making a keg, after attaching the onion, neck and morning hoop on one side, the other side must first be tightened. Coopers have a special device for this - a yoke. Home master can use cable, rope, chain or wire for the same purposes. You can tie a noose and gag it, or tighten the ends of the cable with a lever (Fig. 12).
There is no need to steam or boil the core, as some experts recommend, before tightening. Occasionally, however, it happens that the rivet does not bend along its entire length, but in one place and therefore cracks. However, in such cases the cooper will prefer to simply make a new stave.
Donya
The assembled frame is cleaned from the inside with a plane or sherhebel, and the ends of the frame are cleaned with a humpback plane (Fig. 13).
Now you need to make a groove in the frame (Fig. 14). The cutter of the tool can be made from hoop iron, or even better, from a saw blade. The depth and width of the groove should be 3 mm (Figure 15).
First, from sweet clover with planed outer side and the bottom shield is assembled using the jointed side surfaces (Fig. 16). The clover is fastened with nails, as shown in the figure, for which nests 15-20 mm deep are pre-drilled. The radius of the future bottom is found as the side of a regular hexagon inscribed in the circle of the morning groove on the frame of the barrel. However, you need to cut out the bottom with a margin, deviating from the intended circle by 1-1.5 mm. After cleaning with Sherhebel, chamfers are cut from the edge of the bottom (Fig. 17) so that three millimeters from the edge the thickness of the wood is 3 mm - this is necessary for the tightness of the connection between the bottom and the frame in the morning groove (Fig. 18).
We do the first fitting - having loosened the hoop, we put in the bottom, inserting one side of it into the groove, and then lightly hitting the rest of it with a hammer. If the bottom is tight, you need to further loosen the hoop, and if it is too loose, tighten it.
After stuffing the hoop, make sure there are no gaps. An ideal result is rarely achieved the first time. Even if the cracks are not visible to the eye, you can find them by pouring a little water into the barrel. If it flows between the rivets, it means the bottom is too big and needs to be slightly planed. It's worse if water leaks through the bottom or through the mouth groove. Then you will have to disassemble the frame and narrow one of the rivets.
Before installing the second bottom, a filling hole with a diameter of 30-32 mm should be drilled in it. The plug is made as shown in Fig. 19, its height should be no less than the thickness of the bottom, but the plug should not protrude beyond the plane of the frame edge.
How long does a barrel last?
First of all, it depends on the operating conditions. But it is important to remember that painting filling containers oil paint should not be used: it clogs the pores, which contributes to the rotting of the wood. It is advisable to paint the hoops - they will not rust. For decorative purposes, a barrel or flower tub can be treated with mordants.
The brown color of oak is given by slaked lime mixed with a 25% ammonia solution. Black - a solution of iron sulfate or an infusion of iron filings in vinegar for 5-6 days.
A decoction of the rhizomes of woodruff (Asperula odorata) colors linden and aspen red. The decoction gives a red-brown color onion peel, brown - fruit decoction walnut. These dyes are both brighter than chemical ones and more stable.
It is also important to remember that wood is better preserved at constant humidity. Therefore, dry containers should always be kept dry, and bulk products filled with liquid. Both cannot be placed directly on the ground. It is better to place a brick or plank under the barrel than to subsequently get rid of rot by cutting the chimes.
But no matter how long a barrel made with your own hands serves, all this time it will be a pleasant reminder to the owner of the difficulties overcome in understanding the secrets of the ancient craft of a cooper.
Any gardener knows what soil acidity is. Basically everyone encounters soil that has increased acidity and this must be fought. One of the best ways normalize acidity - use dolomite flour.
A very practical and comfortable reusable mask will be a real salvation in difficult times. It’s easy to sew such a mask with your own hands, especially if you have sewing machine. However, sewing a fabric mask by hand is not difficult. You only need a few simple materials and some free time to sew enough reusable masks for yourself and your loved ones!
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If you have your own dacha, then why not make a hammock, which will be so comfortable to read your favorite book.
Knitting is a fascinating and painstaking work, and many people, especially women, engage in this craft. But several centuries ago in some territories everything was completely different. For example, in France. There, open sources write, representatives of the stronger sex knitted. And in 1527, the first knitting trade union was founded in the capital. Only women were not allowed there.
I want to replace old strawberries with young ones by growing seedlings from seeds. Is this method too risky, and which varieties should I prefer? A. Perevalova
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What can be compared to, for example, a cucumber or a tomato pickled in an oak tub? And in a linden barrel, honey and apple juice are perfectly stored, and you can make kvass in it. Finally, an oak tub with a lemon or laurel tree today will not spoil the interior of even a city apartment. You just can’t find these simple products either in the store or on the market. But you can make such a barrel yourself, and although this task is not an easy one, an amateur craftsman is quite capable of handling it.
Step 1. Selecting wood
Before creating a barrel with your own hands, you need to choose wood. Oak and pine are not suitable for storing honey - honey darkens in an oak barrel, and smells of resin in a pine barrel. Here we need linden, aspen, plane tree. Poplar, willow, and alder will also do. But for pickling, pickling or soaking, there is nothing better than oak - such a barrel will last for decades. For other needs, you can use sedge, beech, spruce, fir, pine, cedar, larch and even birch.
Usually the lower part of the trunk of old trees is used for rivets; it is called “riveter”. But a tinkerer will choose blanks from ordinary firewood and adapt a thin trunk to the job. It is best to make rivets from raw wood.
Step 2. Splitting the lump
First, the log - it should be 5-6 cm longer than the future stave - is split in half, gently tapping the log on the butt of the ax. Each half is then again split into two parts and so on, depending on the thickness of the chock (Fig. 1), to ultimately obtain blanks 5-10 cm wide (for sweet clover - 15 cm) and 2.5-3 cm thick. You just need to try to ensure that the split goes radially - this will protect the riveting from cracking in the future.
Step 3. Drying the workpiece and processing
The chopped pieces are dried in a room with natural ventilation for at least a month. To speed up the process, you can use a dryer. The dried workpiece is processed with a plow or sherhebel and a plane. First, the outer surface of the riveting is planed. In this case, to check the curvature of the surface, you should make a template in advance (Fig. 2), cutting it out of a thin board according to the finished product. Next, the side surfaces are planed, also checking their curvature against the template.
Riveting can be tubular - in which one end is wider than the other, and barrel - with an expansion in the middle. The magnitude of these expansions determines the taper of the tub and the convexity of the central part of the barrel. It is enough if the ratio between the widest and narrowest part of the riveting is 1.7-1.8 (Fig. 3).
Processing of the side surface is completed by jointing. It is more convenient to do this by moving the workpiece along the jointer (Fig. 4).
Step 4. Processing the riveting from the inside
At the next stage, we process the internal (in relation to the finished barrel) surface of the stave, cutting off excess wood with a plane or even an ax (Fig. 5). After this, the barrel stave can be considered ready, but the barrel stave still needs to be thinned to 12-15 mm in the middle (Fig. 6). Don't be confused by the fact that the rivets can have different widths - we take the best we can from each workpiece.
Step 5. Preparing the hoops
Barrel hoops are made of wood or steel. Wooden ones are not so durable, and they are a hundred times more hassle, so it is better to use steel ones. The hoops are made from hot-rolled steel strip with a thickness of 1.6-2.0 mm and a width of 30-50 mm.
Having measured the barrel at the place where the hoop is tensioned, we add double the width of the strip to this measurement. Using a hammer, we bend the workpiece into a ring, punch or drill holes and install rivets made of soft steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm (Fig. 7). One inner edge of the hoop must be flared by striking the pointed end of a hammer on a massive steel stand (Fig. 8).
Based on their location on the product, hoops are divided into fart hoops - the central hoop on the barrel, morning hoops - the outermost hoops, and neck hoops - the intermediate hoops.
Step 6. Assembling the product
A grandmother brought a crumbling tub to a handyman with a request to put it back together. Tom had never had to do this before, but he did not refuse the old woman. I came up with the following: I threw a rope on the floor and laid out rivets on it one after the other. Then he pressed them down with pillows and pulled the ends of the rope together. Gradually removing the pillows, I brought the outer rivets together and secured them with a hoop.
Coopers make it easier.
The product is assembled on any flat surface. First, two rivets are attached to the hoop opposite each other with special brackets bent from hoop iron (Fig. 9). Then, by attaching rivets to one of them, we will get to the other, which will press the assembled half of the barrel. Continue assembling until the rivets fill the entire perimeter of the hoop.
Lightly tapping the hoop with a hammer, we set it down and check whether the edges of the rivets meet tightly. To achieve contact between the rivets over the entire side surface, you need to add a rivet or pull out an extra one and then install a permanent hoop. By the way, if changing the number of rivets does not give the desired effect, you just need to narrow one of the rivets or replace the narrow one with a wider one.
Having leveled the ends of the frame with light blows of a hammer, put on the middle hoop and push it until it stops using a hammer (Fig. 10).
Step 7. Trimming the frame and final screed
Having placed the frame on a flat surface, we describe the cut line with a pencil using a block (Fig. 11). Having installed the morning hoop, we cut off the frame 2-3 mm from it and clean the ends of the rivets with a plane. We do the same with the other end of the frame.
When making a keg, after attaching the onion, neck and morning hoop on one side, the other side must first be tightened. Coopers have a special device for this - a yoke. A home craftsman can use a cable, rope, chain or wire for the same purposes. You can tie a noose and gag it, or tighten the ends of the cable with a lever (Fig. 12).
There is no need to steam or boil the core, as some experts recommend, before tightening. Occasionally, however, it happens that the riveting does not bend along its entire length, but in one place and therefore cracks. However, in such cases the cooper will prefer to simply make a new stave.
Step 8. Cleaning the frame from the inside
The assembled frame is cleaned from the inside with a plane or sherhebel, and the ends of the frame are cleaned with a humpback plane (Fig. 13).
Now you need to make a morning groove in the frame (Fig. 14). The cutter of the tool can be made from hoop iron, or even better, from a saw blade. The depth and width of the groove should be 3 mm (Figure 15).
Step 9. Making the bottom shield
First, a bottom shield is assembled from a sweet clover with a planed outer side and jointed side surfaces (Fig. 16). The clover is fastened with nails, as shown in the figure, for which nests 15-20 mm deep are pre-drilled. The radius of the future bottom is found as the side of a regular hexagon inscribed in the circle of the morning groove on the frame of the barrel. However, you need to cut out the bottom with a margin, departing from the intended circle by 1 - 1.5 mm. After cleaning with Sherhebel, chamfers are cut from the edge of the bottom (Fig. 17) so that three millimeters from the edge the thickness of the wood is 3 mm - this is necessary for the tightness of the connection between the bottom and the frame in the morning groove (Fig. 18).
Step 10. Fitting the bottom shield
We do the first fitting - having loosened the hoop, we put in the bottom, inserting one side of it into the groove, and then lightly hitting the rest of it with a hammer. If the bottom is tight, you need to further loosen the hoop, and if it is too loose, tighten it.
After stuffing the hoop, make sure there are no gaps. An ideal result is rarely achieved the first time. Even if the cracks are not visible to the eye, you can find them by pouring a little water into the barrel. If it flows between the rivets, it means the bottom is too big and needs to be slightly planed. It's worse if water leaks through the bottom or through the mouth groove. Then you will have to disassemble the frame and narrow one of the rivets.
Step 11. Installing the second bottom
Before installing the second bottom, a filling hole with a diameter of 30-32 mm should be drilled in it. The plug is made as shown in Fig. 19, its height must be no less than the thickness of the bottom, but the plug must not protrude beyond the plane of the frame edge.
Step 12. Painting
First of all, it depends on the operating conditions. But it is important to remember that you should not paint filling containers with oil paint: it clogs the pores, which contributes to the rotting of the wood. It is advisable to paint the hoops - they will not rust. For decorative purposes, a barrel or flower tub can be treated with mordants.
The brown color of oak is given by slaked lime mixed with a 25% ammonia solution. A black solution of iron sulfate or an infusion of iron filings in vinegar for 5-6 days.
A decoction of the rhizomes of woodruff (Asperula odorata) colors linden and aspen red. The red-brown color comes from a decoction of onion peels, and the brown color comes from a decoction of walnut fruit. These dyes are both brighter than chemical ones and more stable.
It is also important to remember that wood is better preserved at constant humidity. Therefore, dry containers should always be kept dry, and bulk products filled with liquid. Both of them cannot be placed directly on the ground. It is better to place a brick or plank under the barrel than to subsequently get rid of rot by cutting the chimes.
But no matter how long the barrel serves, all this time it will be a pleasant reminder to the owner of difficulties overcome in understanding the secrets of the ancient craft of a cooper.
You can buy almost everything today. But here wooden barrel, really high quality, good quality, is quite difficult to find, and besides, it is expensive. There is one more point that not everyone takes into account - it is not a fact that the finished barrel will be suitable for a specific purpose. The reason is the mismatch of wood species. The conclusion is clear - make the barrel yourself. And if you understand the drawings and nuances of the work in detail, then it will not turn out to be in any way complicated or impossible to do with your own hands.
Strength combined with ease of processing.
Heavy weight.
Recommendation – it is advisable to use it for the manufacture of relatively small barrels for transportation (storage) of bulk materials.
High cost of material. To make a high-quality barrel, you will have to use wood that is at least 80–100 years old.
Recommendation - if the barrel is intended for storing (fermenting) products, aging wines, and so on, then you should choose oak boards.According to reviews from those who have already made a wooden barrel with their own hands, you can also use such types of wood as linden, ash, aspen, and mulberry.
The choice of material is a rather specific issue. If a barrel is needed to store stocks of wine (cognac, vodka), sourdough (pickling) of cucumbers, watermelons, apples, and so on, then best tree for her - oak. This is undeniable. But to spend such wood (taking into account its cost) to make a container with your own hands in which you are supposed to store cement, sand, bulk products, is hardly correct. Other “simpler” breeds are also quite suitable for these purposes.
Based on its purpose and installation location, the dimensions and design features. There is some confusion with the concepts in everyday life. In principle, both a tub and a barrel are containers of a certain capacity that are assembled by hand from separate boards (rivets, frets in the language of professionals). The only difference is in geometry. The pictures explain everything well.
What is defined for a drawing:
To simplify calculations, it is advisable to focus on standard data that is used by specialists when drawing up drawings of barrels.
The algorithm of actions is clear from the figures, which indicate the main stages of the work.
But some explanations will not be superfluous.
Staves can be made from logs or boards. The first option is preferable, although doing it yourself is much more difficult. The fact is that only the lower part of the tree trunk, from roots to branches, is used to make a barrel. You will have to chop the logs (blocks) yourself.
What's special?
To facilitate bending, the rivets are given an irregular geometry. The thickness at the ends of each board should exceed the same parameter in the center by approximately 0.2. That is, if you plan to assemble a barrel with your own hands from 10 mm boards, then they are trimmed so that in the lower and upper parts of the container their thickness is at least 12.
Various sources indicate periods that are measured in months, or even years (up to 3). On this point, it is necessary to focus on local conditions, initial porosity and its porosity. Recommendations for artificially accelerating this process when doing work yourself are not entirely useful. Without practice, it is difficult to determine optimal mode for the same electrical cabinet and the time the wood is kept in it. Experienced craftsmen It is advised to wait until the moisture evaporates from the wood naturally.
You just need to place it in a room with proper conditions - a temperature of at least +20 ºС and good ventilation. You may have to wait 2 or 3 years. But a high-quality barrel is not made “in one day,” and this must be understood.
If we're talking about about containers for household purposes, then you can dry the rivets even on the stove. But in any case, a barrel is not assembled from raw boards. Within a couple of weeks (due to wood shrinkage), cracks will begin to appear between them. Verified.
Finding metal strips and drilling holes for rivets with your own hands is easy. The only thing you should pay attention to is that it is better to take tool steel. It is characterized by increased tensile strength and corrosion resistance. If you pre-treat it with drying oil and then burn it (for example, with a blowtorch), you will get hoops of an original light brown hue.
It is cut from a shield, which is assembled with your own hands from pre-prepared boards. Moreover, using a different technology than frets (sidewalls). Their thickness does not change along the length. To ensure the tightness of the joints, the ends are milled, that is, the assembly is carried out according to the well-known “tongue and groove” principle. In some cases, special (sealing) strips are installed.
The sequence of actions is shown in this figure.
Such work cannot be done alone; 2 - 3 assistants will definitely be needed. The rivets are placed along the lower hoop with maximum fit. If the last board does not “fit”, it should be lightly trimmed to size. This is where spare parts come in handy, since the first or even the second time, with your own hands, without experience, you may not be able to fit the “finishing” board. A small overkill with the wood sample, and it will have to be rejected.
And only after this the hoops are tightened (if they are adjustable) or finally seated in place (in height).
How to treat the outside of the barrel is decided on the spot (“sandpaper” and by hand, sandpaper/machine), but after this it is advisable to cover the container with beeswax (a thin layer). This will ensure additional protection wood from external factors.
Good luck to you, aspiring coopers!
For the construction of a bathhouse you can choose traditional version– cut down a small one or build a steam room according to frame technology. A sauna - a barrel made with your own hands from specially prepared boards - looks much more attractive and original. Since the method of assembling a house-side structure is of interest to many homeowners, we suggest considering the manufacturing procedure in this article.
The building is similar to a barrel not only externally, but also structurally. The structure consists of the following elements:
Steam room, washing room and dressing room in the form of a classic round barrel
Reference. There are more complex designs, made in the form of a rectangle with rounded corners or an oval, shown in the photo below.
The first step is to decide on the project and layout bath rooms– the future dimensions and foundation of the structure depend on this. Please note important point: the side walls are made of solid boards made specifically for the bathhouse, so the length of the structure directly depends on the length of the lumber.
Construction and interior layout barrels are developed depending on the selected type of bath and other wishes of the homeowner as follows:
A beginner who decides to build a barrel-shaped bathhouse on his own is not recommended to start with large structures equipped with several internal partitions. Make a one-room sauna 2 m long - if desired, it can be loaded on a trailer passenger car and take it to a resting place near a reservoir.
The beams and boards for a bathhouse made in the form of a barrel must be sawn from hardwood - aspen, linden, and so on. Of the coniferous species, the use of cedar and larch, which are resistant to temperature changes and moisture, is allowed. Pine and spruce, when heated strongly, release resin, whose drops can burn people in the steam room.
Advice. If the choice of wood is limited only coniferous species, for the cladding of the upper part of the body, select boards without knots, which are sources of resinous discharge.
To make a barrel-type sauna, purchase the following timber:
The number of boards on the end walls of the barrel is calculated as follows: the area of the circle is determined, the resulting value is divided by the width of the product and multiplied by a safety factor of 1.2. Do not forget to add bars - power jumpers that connect the boards to each other during the panel assembly process.
Side paneling timber is calculated by the circumference divided by the width of the board. Apply a safety factor since the wood must be mortise-and-tongued on a woodworking machine.
Note. On sale it is not difficult to find ready-made kits for assembling bathhouses - barrels of various sizes and layouts. But often the quality of these products does not correspond to their cost.
What else will be needed in the process of building a round bath:
If you plan to use the barrel year-round, it is worth making external insulation. Suitable thermal insulation material– mineral wool, polymers are not recommended.
Since the walls of the bathhouse are joined in a special way - like log cabins, all boards need machining using cutters on a machine, cutting out semicircular grooves by hand is unrealistic. The developer needs to contact a woodworking workshop and provide sketches with the parameters of the workpieces. The exact dimensions of the ridges, grooves and profile of the cutter are indicated in the drawing.
To facilitate further construction works Process the trimmed workpieces in advance according to the instructions:
Advice. Cover the surfaces of the workpieces going outside and inside the barrel with different protective compounds. Apply from inside special remedy for baths and steam rooms.
After painting, stack the boards to dry, laying thin strips between the tiers. How to lead correctly preparatory work, look at the video:
As mentioned above, a barrel-sauna is made with your own hands from two (minimum) round edge elements connected by profiled cladding boards. Therefore, construction begins with the assembly of the ends of the barrel using panel technology.
Place 2 support beams on a flat area and begin assembling the rear blank wall in the following sequence:
Advice. It is not necessary to tie the blanks into a shield with two long jumpers. Place 4 crossbars shorter and closer to the edge - the product will look more aesthetically pleasing.
When assembling, the groove of each subsequent beam is put on the ridge of the previous one, as builders of log houses do. This method connection prevents precipitation from entering the joint. Fit the boards tightly; if necessary, use clamps and wedging.
The front wall is made in a similar way, only the base serves door frame. Twist it with self-tapping screws from the beams, having previously secured it to the stands with clamps and aligned the diagonals with a tape measure. To trace the circle, nail a temporary board to the box with the center on it.
After sawing off the excess, sand the ends of both pieces and install the door. It would not hurt to additionally secure the outer boards of the wall with long furniture screws screwed into the adjacent board bars. How to make the round walls of a barrel-sauna, watch the video:
The structure needs to be assembled locally - it is quite cumbersome to move. But first you need to make stands - legs located under the outer walls and partitions. For making, use as much as possible the scraps of materials left over after assembling the front and back walls. One of the design options is shown in the photo.
Installation of the sauna barrel is carried out in the following order:
Important point. A version of a traditional Russian bathhouse with a washing area is installed at a slight slope to the side back wall. A hole is drilled at the lowest point of the floor to drain water.
The finished barrel body should be protected from precipitation so that top part the smaller baths got wet. It is recommended to use the budget method here:
If insulation is needed, the shingles are nailed to the body in several layers - the gap between the plywood and outer surface barrels will increase. There you can put mineral wool covered diffusion membrane. The procedure for assembling the bathhouse is shown in detail in the next video:
Once installation is complete, proceed to interior design barrels. The following work remains to be done in the bathhouse:
Under the barrel - Russian bathhouse, it is advisable to dig a pit in advance to drain water through a hole in the floor. There is another way of drainage - connect a flexible pipe to the drain, laid to a storm drain gutter or other place.
If you decide to self-production baths are barrels, be patient and big amount free time. The author of the videos presented here spent about 1 month building it from scratch. Add time costs to resolve unforeseen delays and problems associated with lack of experience. There is a way to reduce construction time - order ready set craftsmen, and only do the installation yourself.
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