Without a ventilation system apparatus, nothing can be done basement, since if there is a lack of constant flow of cool air, dampness cannot be eliminated. In basements and cellars, as a rule, not only canned foods are stored, but also fresh vegetables and fruits, which “breathe,” which inevitably causes moisture to accumulate in the room. In addition to this problem, the walls can absorb moisture from the ground from the outer edge if the waterproofing of the base of the house and the basement was poorly organized during construction.
IN in this case, 2 doors are made, one insulated - for winter, and the second - in the frame version, with a small mesh attached to it. The fence is needed to prevent small rodents from getting into the cellar.
The insulated opening is removed in summer period for continuous ventilation of the cellar. If the room above the basement is insulated, then winter period Ventilation sessions are allowed.
If the pipe heads are placed exactly in a vertical position, they should be protected from precipitation, dust and debris getting inside by placing a metal umbrella or ventilation deflector on top. 
Natural ventilation is based on the difference in pressure and temperature indoors and outdoors. Effective operation largely depends on the correct location of the pipes. So, the supply opening must be at the top at a maximum of 250: 300 millimeters from the floor, and the exhaust opening must be 100: 200 millimeters below the ceiling.
It is currently unacceptable to place it lower, otherwise the ceiling will begin to get wet.
This method of ventilation may undoubtedly be insufficient for a large cellar room, or if it consists of many rooms.
IN forced ventilation method There are always the same channels (pipes), but fans are installed in them to generate forced air movement.
In the lightest modes forced type, the cooler is discharged to the exhaust duct. In a similar way, an artificial thinning is formed in the room, facilitating the proactive entry of cool air into the basement through the supply passage. The performance of the propeller you choose will depend on the size of the room.
They do it differently - they install fans on both the supply and exhaust paths. This happens significantly in voluminous, complexly configured basement rooms. Here you will definitely need the support of a professional to calculate the consistency of the inflow and outflow of the atmosphere, that is, the diameters of the channels and the power (performance) of the fans installed in them.
For each type of ventilation, be sure to wisely make your choice regarding the diameters of the pipes. The calculation methods used by high-class designers are very difficult, and presenting them in their entirety has practically no meaning. However, when installing ventilation in a small private cellar, it is permissible to use a simple calculation methodology.
Thus, with certain assumptions applicable in the information criteria, it can be assumed that for the purpose of 1 square meter of the cellar area, 26 square cm of the ventilation duct section is required. So, for a sample, you can estimate what pipe diameter will be needed for a cellar on a scale of 3 times 2 meters.
Finding the area of the room:
S = 3 by 2 and = 6 square meters
According to the confirmed compliance, it will require a pipe of the following size:
T = 6 times 26 = 156 square centimeters
It remains to find this radius of the pipe:
R = root (T divided by PI) = root (156 divided by 3.14) will be approximately 7.05 cm
Therefore, the diameter of the supply pipe is:
The diameter will be approximately 14 cm = 140 millimeters.
If only a supply pipe is introduced into the basement, and the role of the exhaust pipe will be played by a hole, in this case it is possible to slightly increase the profile of the inlet channel by defining a pipe with a diameter of 150 millimeters.
To guarantee air exchange, it is customary to install a pipe with a diameter of 10, we expect 15% larger than at the entrance, on the exhaust duct.
Dв = Dн add 15% = 140 add 21 and it will be approximately 160 millimeters.
After spending necessary calculations, taking into account all the nuances described above, it is allowed to proceed to the installation of ventilation.
Approximate location of supply and exhaust pipes.
The supply pipe is permanently placed below.
Possible location of the supply pipe.
To provide effective use a cellar needs to be built in it proper ventilation. Well installed ventilation system will help normalize air exchange, eliminate excess moisture and make the room suitable for storing food and preservation. We’ll look at how to make ventilation in the cellar below.
Most private houses are equipped with a basement. This premises provides its owners with additional usable area, which is often used as a storage room, sauna, work room, office, gym or rest room. The most common option is to use the basement as a cellar - a place to store food. At the same time, you do not need to go outside to get the necessary products during the cold winter months.
In order for the cellar to function correctly, certain requirements must be met when arranging it, namely:
1. Lack of light.
The absence of windows in the cellar is mandatory, and the inclusion electric lighting should be periodic, only during the presence of people in it.
2. Defined temperature regime.
For cellar equipment, basements are used, which must have contact with one of the external walls building.
3. Availability of fresh, clean air.
This condition will help to organize a properly installed cellar ventilation system.
4. Air humidity.
The humidity in the cellar should be about ninety percent; this factor depends on properly organized ventilation.
The most important condition for the proper functioning of the cellar is the presence of a ventilation system. Right organized ventilation creates an atmosphere that will help store food in the cellar for a long time. Lack of ventilation increases humidity, leads to the formation of fungus and mold, as well as food spoilage. Excessive ventilation will cause vegetables and fruits to dry out due to strong drafts. Therefore, the ventilation equipment must be correct so that there are optimal conditions for storing food.
To organize a proper ventilation system, two air ducts are required. The first is for supply purposes, and the second is for exhaust purposes. As a material for air duct equipment, it is allowed to use pipes made of asbestos, PVC or galvanized steel of a certain diameter. The calculation of the required diameter is made based on the relationship that for one square meter 25 square centimeters are required from overall size pipes.
We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the basic requirements for installing the main components of the exhaust system:
1. Pipe exhaust purpose. Helps remove stale air from the room. Its installation is carried out in one of the corners of the cellar, while its lower part is located at the very top of the room. The passage of the air duct through all rooms is vertical, and then it rises above the ridge part by half a meter. To reduce the amount of condensation in the inside of the pipe, the air duct needs to be insulated. This procedure will help prevent the formation of frost in winter time of the year. To carry out insulation work, you will need another pipe of a larger diameter and mineral wool. The first pipe is placed in the second, and the space between them is filled with insulation.
2. The supply pipe provides the cellar with fresh street air. The pipe is installed in the corner, which is located opposite the exhaust type pipe. The height of the open end of the pipe from the floor is half a meter. This pipe passes through sections of the floors and rises thirty centimeters from the floor.
Tip: To prevent rodents or other insects from entering the cellar, it is recommended to install a fine mesh on the upper section of the supply pipe.
Air moves through ventilation ducts due to the difference in the specific gravity of warm and cold air masses. If the temperature difference is too large, drafts occur, and if the temperature difference is too small, air stagnation occurs. Therefore, it is necessary to install special valves that regulate the air flow on the supply and exhaust pipes.
To check that the ventilation system is working correctly, take a thin piece of paper and place it against the opening of the ventilation pipe. If the sheet sways slightly, then the system is working properly. Another test option is to install a tank with hot coals in it in the basement. If the smoke comes out through the exhaust pipe, then the system is working.
Tip: To improve air exchange, try adjusting pre-installed dampers. To increase draft, you should increase the size of the exhaust pipe. If the ventilation does not work when performing these steps, install combined type ventilation.
To install this type of ventilation, care should be taken to install a fan whose power does not exceed 100 W in the air duct responsible for removing air from the room. This procedure will ensure the availability of fresh air.
Natural ventilation is supply and exhaust system, providing ventilation of fresh air and removal of musty air. This system requires the presence of mines, which are organized in the form of two pipes:
These pipes are installed on opposite sides of the cellar walls. It is recommended to comply with the most long distance between pipes The supply shaft is installed in the lower part of the wall, and the exhaust shaft in its upper part.
This placement of pipes is explained by a physical phenomenon, which indicates that warm air is located on top, since it is lighter, and cold is located on the bottom. That's why Fresh air, entering from the supply pipe, it heats up and rises to the top, where it is removed using an exhaust shaft.
During the winter season cold air even heavier, so ventilation occurs faster. This is associated with an increase in air exchange during the cold season. When setting up the system natural ventilation this location of the mines in opposite direction is mandatory. At the same time, the most the best material for the pipe there is asbestos. To create rarefied air, a reflector is attached to the pipe, which also improves ventilation. When arranging a basement that is located in a region with a warm climate, this system will not work. In this case, it is recommended to install combined ventilation systems.
This ventilation system is universal and suitable for rooms with any microclimate. It can work in both warm and cold weather. Its installation involves the installation of two shafts, the same as in the previous system:
The main difference between this system and the previous version is the temperature difference that is formed when installing a small exhaust fan on the air duct pipe. In this case, air exchange increases and ventilation works in any conditions.
The cost of such fans is affordable, and energy consumption is minimal. The efficiency of its operation exceeds the cost of its purchase, so in the basement with a combined ventilation system there is a healthy microclimate that promotes year-round preservation of products.
Owners who have an individual garage often set up a cellar in it, since with a small investment they get a fairly spacious room for storing products and preserving them.
Considerable attention should be paid to the arrangement of the cellar ventilation system in the garage, since not only the food, but also the car will suffer from its improper installation. High humidity will cause corrosion and damage to all the tools in the garage.
There are two types of organization of cellar ventilation in the garage:
1. Natural ventilation system - air removal based on the principle of heat exchange. Air exchange occurs due to the fact that warm air rises to the top, and cold air is located below.
2. Forced ventilation system - installation of mechanical blowers that help organize air exchange. This system is more effective, although it requires additional financial investments.
Installation of a natural ventilation system is carried out by installing two pipes for air intake and supply. To avoid the appearance of zones with stagnant air, the pipes are located in opposite corners of the room.
There are two ways to install exhaust pipes:
The length of the pipe should be such that its upper part is 50-100 cm above the roof of the garage. The minimum length of an exhaust pipe is 250-300 cm. To enhance ventilation, it is recommended to install a deflector on the top of the pipe, which increases the intensity of air mass movement. In addition, the deflector will prevent dust and dirt from entering the cellar.
The most effective deflector is a diameter that is twice the diameter of the pipe. In order to save money, it is possible to self-made deflector, from a tin bucket or plastic.
Installation of the supply pipe implies its location half a meter higher from the floor and half a meter from its upper cut and ground level. A grid with a medium or small cross-section of cells is installed on the upper cut.
To calculate the diameter of the pipes, you need to know the area of the room. For example, in a cellar with an area of 15 square meters, it is necessary to install a ventilation pipe with a diameter of 22.5 cm. Since a room area measuring one square meter requires 1.5 cm of pipe diameter.
Purchase option available plastic pipes, since they are cheaper than asbestos, and also have a light weight, resistant to moisture, frost and mechanical damage.
Air ducts made of tin are the most irrational, although their cost is quite low, they are completely unstable to mechanical damage.
The presence of dampers will help control ventilation. Dampers can be purchased or made by yourself. The only requirement for dampers is that their size must completely cover the air duct. It is recommended to close the air ducts during severe frosts to avoid food freezing.
When installing forced ventilation, you need to take into account electrical safety rules. Connecting the hood should only be carried out if you have special skills. Otherwise, it is better to entrust this process to professionals.
Required condition proper operation fan is the presence of waterproofing of all wiring. Since due to the formation of condensation it will quickly fail.
1. To ensure high-quality ventilation, you will need the following equipment:
2. If in the cellar appeared unpleasant odors, mold, mildew - exhaust system not working correctly.
3. If the humidity in the cellar is too low, it is recommended to install a box with wet sawdust or wet sand in it.
4. When too high humidity In the cellar, careful ventilation of the room is necessary. IN autumn time It is better to open all the valves and doors in the basement to avoid the accumulation of dampness in it.
6. If the main purpose of the cellar is to preserve wine in it, an automated climate control system should be provided. To do this, you need to purchase special equipment that will regulate the humidity and temperature conditions of the room.
7. When installing split systems in a cellar, it is recommended to seek the help of specialists who will help carry out calculations and compare the area of the room with the power of the devices necessary to create a comfortable microclimate.
8. Another way to determine the correct installation of ventilation in the cellar is a lit match; the quality of ventilation depends on how quickly it goes out.
9. Factors on which the quality of natural ventilation of the cellar depends:
10. Use duct fan with low performance, it is connected to asynchronous motors two types:
More high efficiency has the second option, although its cost is slightly higher than that of the synchronous one.
11. In addition to ensuring proper ventilation, the basement requires proper waterproofing and thermal insulation work. Even at the stage of construction of the cellar, it is necessary to provide for impregnation of the floor with the help of penetrating materials and insulation mineral wool. These works will help make the microclimate of the cellar favorable for food storage and preservation.
If the building does not meet the listed requirements, it is worth thinking about the need for high-quality ventilation. To create such an air cycle, 2 types of ventilation are used - passive and mechanical.
When laying the foundation, vents are left in the basement above the cellar. They are covered with iron bars to prevent pets, pests and debris (leaves, branches, waste paper) from getting inside. When frost begins, place on top of the grate thick fabric for insulation and is pressed down with an iron sheet. With proper design, the cellar will maintain the temperature acceptable for storing food even in winter. 
This is the simplest way of arrangement, but it does not provide enough good ventilation, and precipitation (snow, rain) will in any case fall into the vents and accumulate.
If it is not possible to make two separate vents, you can split one in half. The first part with a wind deflector directs fresh air into the room, the second is slightly covered from parallel blowing and will serve as an exhaust hood.
Cellars large sizes It will no longer be possible to provide high-quality ventilation with niches alone - air circulation is necessary here. But you can do ventilation in the cellar with your own hands quite quickly and without great expense, and a full-fledged ventilation system will allow you to store any things in the future without the risk of damage.
A significant disadvantage of natural ventilation is its dependence on weather conditions. In the complete absence of wind, the air flow is extremely weak, therefore it can be considered an intermediate solution and a “framework” for the mechanical one.
First you need to decide on the diameter of the pipes, calculate the volume of the chamber and the required amount of air for normal circulation, after which a ventilation scheme for the cellar is drawn up. The formula is quite simple: 1 cm of pipe diameter is 13 sq. cm. sections. For 1 sq.m of cellar you need 26 sq.cm of section. That is, with a cellar of 10 sq.m. the diameter is calculated as follows: 10 sq.m (area) * 26 (required cross-section per meter): 13 (section per 1 cm of diameter). 
Simply put, the area is multiplied by 2 - the diameter of the pipe is obtained. If the air duct rectangular shape– we take the calculation of 1 sq.m. room area = 26 sq. cm. duct area (in this case, area 230 sq.cm = duct size 10x23 cm). Ventilation of a cellar in a garage is done according to the same principle, but taking into account the design features - it cannot always be removed directly.
Since the garage is used mainly for storing products that are more resistant to temperature and moisture, there is less dependence on ventilation, but the car still needs air circulation to prevent condensation from accumulating.
After this, the required length is measured, and installation work can begin.
The air duct is led through the ceiling in the corner of the cellar to the roof, always above the level of the building - otherwise the draft will be unstable and depend on the direction of the wind. A damper is attached at the bottom for adjustment, and a mesh (from birds and debris) and a “fungus” from rain are placed on top. You cannot place it end to end, otherwise air will not flow freely, but a “mushroom” that is too high is useless by default, since rain and snow rarely fall vertically, and the wind will blow them into the pipe. If there is already a ceiling above the cellar ( concrete wall, slabs, bricks) - instead of one large passage, you can make several smaller ones, but equal in total area/diameter. Proper ventilation of the cellar in winter will protect food from icing and completely allows for the “division” of pipes.
The inflow is located diametrically to the hood - in the opposite corner at a distance of at least 0.5 m from the floor. The size of the supply channel can be made slightly larger than the hood for reliability and better air supply. Similar to a hood, it is installed on the roof and is also equipped with a mesh and rain protection. It is important that the supply pipe is at least 0.5 m below the hood, otherwise the system will close and air will not flow due to the same pressure in both channels. 
After installation, it is necessary to check the traction.
No sensors - just hold a burning lighter to the exhaust vent for 5-10 seconds. If the flame burns evenly and is “pulled” into the channel, everything is in order. If it goes out, it means that air is not coming in or coming out. In this case, the flame is applied to each channel in turn for testing. Near the inflow, it should tremble from the wind flow; if it burns perfectly evenly, the pipe is either clogged or incorrectly installed. Change the height, increase the diameter - this should solve the problem.
Unlike passive ventilation, mechanical basement ventilation in a private house does not depend on the weather, wind strength/direction and other details. Moreover, existing passive ventilation will serve as the basis for creating forced circulation. Actually, the basic principles of the design are no different - both pipes are located diametrically, both lead to the top, both are protected from debris and precipitation. Forced ventilation is equipped in two ways.
An electric fan is mounted on the hood, blowing air out of the room. As a result, a small vacuum is formed inside, which itself will draw in outside air. An alternative is an inlet fan for better air pumping, but the load on it will be slightly increased if the hood is not wide enough. Ideally, you should install speed-controlled fans on both channels and set them to the same speed. 
Since the humidity in basements is higher than under normal conditions, it is better to use low-voltage fans and additionally insulate the wires and contacts and first consult with professionals on how to make ventilation in the basement with your own hands.
An alternative is deflectors. They are placed on the hood instead of a hood and rarefy the air in the pipe, creating increased draft. Another option is turbines. The force of the wind rotates the shaft, it transfers force to the fan, which improves the outflow of air. Both options do not require electricity, but when installing them, you need to adjust the draft. 
There is only one downside to deflectors and turbines - they are also dependent on the wind and in its absence will not bring much benefit. It is better to strengthen the exhaust fan with a fan in such cases.
A DIY video of cellar ventilation will help you better understand all the details - visual perception much more effective than any text.
Proper ventilation is the key to a good indoor microclimate. The absence of dampness, mildew, mold, and the maintenance of temperature and humidity conditions are indicators of the correct operation of the system. When deciding to build a home cellar, you need to consider all the nuances in order to ultimately obtain the appropriate storage regime for fruits, vegetables, and canned products.
The best ventilation, which is justified in all respects, for the construction of a cellar with natural air exchange. Requirements that a food storage room must meet:
For proper operation of the ventilation system, two openings are provided in the cellar, which allow for the influx and removal of air masses. Pipes of the required diameter and length are supplied to these holes. Therefore, when designing a system, correct calculation is very important. Their location is important for proper air movement.
If the cellar is located under a building (house or garage), then the pipes are located in the walls of the building. In a separate building they are brought out through the ceiling. Large volumes of cold air must not be allowed to enter. At the same time, stagnant basement odor must be constantly removed.
Two pipes (air supply and exhaust) made of asbestos or galvanized iron. What should be the length of the pipe is calculated as follows: the exhaust pipe runs along the corner of the cellar, starting one and a half meters from its floor (approximately 20 cm below the ceiling) and ending on the roof, at least 0.5 m above the ridge. Correct height affects the level of traction.
The supply pipe is installed in the opposite corner from the exhaust pipe, at a height of up to 0.3 m from the floor level. The diameter of the pipes is calculated based on the values approved by standards, so per 1 sq. m of cellar area – 26 sq. cm pipe section.
Let's say the cellar area is 10 square meters. m, then using the formula for the area of a circle, we will find the pipe cross-section we need.
R= √S/π = √(26x10)/3.14= 9.1 cm. This means the cross section the required pipe– 18 cm.
When making calculations, keep in mind that if the calculated diameter is, for example, 12.8 cm, you need to take higher value – 14.
Important! In order to obtain proper ventilation of the cellar, the cross-section of the exhaust pipe must be calculated with a coefficient of 1.15. That is, for a cellar with an area of 10 square meters. m - 20 cm (18x1.15), and for 5 sq. m – 16 cm.
Insulation of the exhaust pipe in the place where it passes through attic space, is required when installing it. The pipe, which performs the functions of removing warm air, forms on its inner surface condensate. It freezes in the cold, reducing, and sometimes completely blocking, the path of exhaust air. It is also necessary to protect the exhaust and supply pipes with canopies that will not allow precipitation to get inside.
Attention! Adjust air exchange using dampers that are built into the pipes. Thanks to such devices, it is possible to change the intensity of incoming and outgoing air masses.
For small rooms, ventilation in a cellar with one pipe is advisable. It is made two-channel. You can make a ventilation pipe for a free-standing cellar from boards 3-4 cm thick. It is a hollow rectangular structure with sides of 18 cm each. Inside there is a diagonal partition. To regulate the inflow and outflow of air, each channel has a valve.
Important! Supply and exhaust pipes should not be located at the same level. This rule does not apply to single pipe ventilation.
To install such ventilation, it is necessary to comply required condition– it should not disturb the comfort of the residents of the house with the odors that are present in the cellar. This fact may indicate that the cellar ventilation is not working properly.
The ventilation device in the cellar located under the house must be carried out in compliance with regulatory requirements to the installation of pipes and their sizes, depending on the height of the building and the area of the cellar. Only cellar ventilation with two pipes can be installed in the house.
After completing the installation of ventilation in the cellar and all related work, you need to check how well it works, isn't it excess humidity. The effectiveness of the work can be checked using a regular match. To do this you just need to light it. As you know, from a school physics course, combustion is supported by oxygen, but if the air is supersaturated with carbon dioxide, then combustion is weak or completely absent. This means that a lit and brightly burning match indicates the presence of oxygen in the air and good operation of the system, while an extinguished match indicates that the ventilation is not working properly.
In a new cellar, after “commissioning” it is necessary to check the operation of the ventilation system
You can determine what the humidity is in the cellar using the long-known method - “a glass of water.” Poured into a glass cold water so that its walls fog up. After standing in the cellar for some time, the moisture from the glass will evaporate - ventilation copes with this indicator. If condensation flows down the walls of the glass in streams, the microclimate of the cellar does not meet the requirements. You can get rid of dampness by changing the operation of the ventilation system. As a preventive measure, paint the walls with slaked lime. Also, you can always keep a bucket of lime in the basement, which perfectly absorbs moisture.
In order for the ventilation of the cellar in the house to work correctly and meet all the requirements, such a stage as design cannot be neglected. After all, a malfunctioning system will subsequently not contribute to the preservation of products, but, on the contrary, will spoil them, at the same time growing mold fungi.
A cellar is a room that is completely or partially buried in the ground and is intended for storing vegetables. It is the location in the soil that distinguishes the cellar from the so-called basement, the premises of which are located in ground floor buildings. Due to the location of the cellar in the ground, the temperature in its room is almost equal to the temperature of the soil at the cellar level. In areas with cold winters, the cellar is located below the freezing point of the soil.
If we take into account that the soil temperature below the freezing point is always positive and is in the range of +5-+10 C, then in a well-made “correct” cellar this temperature level is also maintained both in winter and summer.
Cellar walls can be made of any building material: wood, brick, concrete or natural stone. Additional thermal insulation is not used.
But not only temperature is important for the preservation of vegetables. The level of humidity plays a significant role in this process: too damp air in the cellar can cause mold and rotting of vegetables, and a lack of moisture in the air will lead to their drying out.
As a rule, the soil at the freezing level always contains some amount of moisture, determined climatic conditions terrain and location level groundwater. This moisture is enough to maintain comfortable storage conditions for vegetables.
Any other source of moisture is not needed in vegetable storage.
Therefore, for the construction of a cellar, a dry plot of land is always chosen, where the risk of flooding by melt water or rain is minimal. To protect against precipitation, a canopy is built over the cellar or placed under outbuildings or a garage. It is not recommended to store vegetables under a living space. The fact is that root vegetables emit carbon dioxide, the entry of which into residential premises is undesirable.
If groundwater is close, the area for cellar construction must first be drained.
Thus, in a properly constructed cellar there is no excess water, and the humidity level is determined by the moisture content in the soil at the level of its freezing, that is, for most of Russia at a depth of at least one and a half meters.
However, excess moisture in the cellar can appear if it is not used correctly, and the largest amount of it is formed in the summer, in hot weather. The fact is that it is at this time of year that it is customary "dry out" the cellar by forcing hot summer air containing water vapor into it. When hot air masses come into contact with cold cellar walls, condensation forms on their surface, which often causes mold to form in the basement. After such ventilation and “drying”, the cellar may become unsuitable for storing vegetables.
That is why the issue of ventilation is especially important for him!
The basis of the principle of natural ventilation in the cellar is the movement of air masses from the supply opening to the exhaust opening, which ensures a constant supply of fresh air into the room and the removal of air masses that carry away excess moisture and carbon dioxide.
It should be remembered that the presence of moisture in the cellar is a necessary condition preservation of vegetables, and the presence of pronounced air flows can also cause drying of vegetables and fruits. Therefore, the ventilation system in the cellar is characterized by a low level of air exchange, at which the level of humidity and temperature remain constant.
To do this, two ventilation ducts are installed in the cellar: supply and exhaust. In spacious storage facilities, the supply and exhaust ducts are located at opposite ends of the room. This is done so that the air flow moving from the inlet to the exhaust captures and carries away exhaust air and moisture. The farther the supply and exhaust openings are located from each other, the longer the air flow will be and the better the ventilation of the cellar will be.
The outlet of the supply channel is located at a distance of 3-5 cm from the floor level. The inlet of the supply channel should be located on the street, as close to ground level as possible and located on the north side of the house. Along it, cold, heavy air, trying to fall down, will flow by gravity into the cellar.
In the cellar, positive temperature is maintained due to internal heat land. Warmer air, enriched with moisture, rises and accumulates under the roof of the storage facility. It is here that in the upper part of the cellar it is necessary to place the exhaust vent of the ventilation system with its outlet to the outside along the southern wall of the building. To ensure traction, the exhaust duct is made as high as possible.
To control the ventilation system, both supply and exhaust are equipped with rotary dampers. In the off-season, the dampers are fully opened, and in winter, during severe frosts and in summer during hot periods, they completely block. True, more often cellar owners replace the rotary valves with rags, but this does not change the essence of the matter.
If the cellar is small
In small cellars with an area of up to 3 m2, supply and ventilation duct located in close proximity. Often, a wooden box with two passages is used for this: along one of them, extended from the ground level to the cellar floor, fresh air is supplied, and through the second, laid from the internal level of the ceiling of the cellar and brought up to the outside, exhaust air masses are removed. As a rule, a small flow from the supply channel to the exhaust channel in small cellars is quite sufficient.
This combined design is made in order to save building materials, but at present it is still more convenient to place the supply and exhaust ducts separately, on maximum distance from each other.
Typically, natural ventilation in the cellar is sufficient to maintain comfortable conditions for storing vegetables. It should be remembered that the cellar and basement are different rooms. Supplies are stored in the cellar. There are no workshops or warehouses for unnecessary things.
The humidity level in the cellar is always higher than the humidity level in living quarters, and air exchange in it does not provide comfortable conditions for the permanent presence of a person. Forced ventilation in the cellar is installed only if the existing ventilation system cannot cope with the task. For example, in a spacious vegetable storage area of several hundred square meters, equipped with one supply and exhaust duct, you can additionally use forced ventilation.
To do this, just install a fan in the exhaust duct. The vacuum it creates will provide additional air flow into the room.
In small cellars forced ventilation Can only be used in dry, cool weather. In hot weather, air from outside entering the cold cellar will provide it with condensation and instead of the expected drying of the room, you will get dampness and mold.
