A jigsaw can be called a universal tool that allows you to carry out direct and figured cut the most various materials- from soft wood to steel and glass. It is worth noting that the tool itself is universal, but not its equipment: cutting of each material is carried out using a specific type of blade. However, in order to choose the right file, you need to find out what criteria to use during the selection process. In this article we will talk about what jigsaw blades are, what types of jigsaw files there are, and also how to insert a file into a jigsaw.
If you go to a store and say you need jigsaw blades, the salesman will show you a variety of various options. They come in various lengths, widths and thicknesses, and have different size teeth and shank type.
Jigsaw files, based on the material being processed, are classified into:
Based on the type of operations performed, saws are divided into two categories:
If you look closely at jigsaw files, you can see that they have different sizes tooth alignment and sawing edge geometry. Not only the cleanliness of the cut depends on the type of wiring, but also what material such a file can be used for working with. Highlight:
The most significant parameter for a file is the grade of steel from which it is made. The files bear the following markings:
However high quality steel is not a guarantee that the file will cope with the assigned tasks. An important role is also played by:
An important parameter in choosing a jigsaw file is the type of its shank. There are such shanks:
The accuracy of the device and the level of its performance directly depend on the features listed above. However, there are other factors on which the ease of working with a jigsaw depends. In the process of working with a jigsaw, every master is faced with replacing the saw blade. The most common type of shank is European or “Boshevsky”. It features a cross configuration. Such canvases can be bought in every store, this is their main feature.
The most common methods of fastening the canvas are:
In more budget options The block, tightened with two screws, clamps the blade with a cut. Such screws are located in the frontal plane. This system has high compatibility, but is inferior in other respects. For example, a crookedly clamped fastener can cause misalignment. If this happens, additional wedging needs to be done. Impacts of the saw on the workpiece with the butt end cause the front block to break in half or the screw threads to break. Such problems can arise if the tool is not handled correctly.
The most convenient are jigsaws equipped with a quick-release blade fastening system.
A significant difference from “regular cartridges” is that there is no versatility. Only blades with the same shank are suitable; in addition, there is some play. However, often this does not play a big role, because the choice of paintings is simply huge. since there are a huge number of paintings. The disadvantage of quick-release locks is the limited thickness of the blades. Inserting the blade in these jigsaws is quite easy.
Fastening the blade in jigsaws with a fastening method using locks implies the following sequence of work:
In order to insert the blade into a device with a screw fastening system, you need to do the following:
July 19Let's try to understand the labeling of such a common consumable as a jigsaw file.
The purpose is determined by the color of the shank on the side of the alphanumeric designations. If the shank
Now let's go over the alphanumeric symbols mentioned above. Let's go in order.
First comes the letter T or U. It indicates the type of fastening of the file. More common T-mount, but there is also a U-shape - see diagram 
The letters M (Makita) and F (Fein) may also appear
The following numbers indicate the working length. They can be 1,2,3,7
The second and third numbers show the purpose of the file itself.
F - bimetallic files. They are of the highest quality: they cut cleaner and faster, last longer
O - narrow files for curved cuts
P - thicker files, due to which they move less from side to side and the cut is perpendicular to the surface.
R - regressive blades, that is, with a reverse tooth
X - universal blade (for any materials)
Then comes the steel grade
HCS(high carbon steel) - high carbon steel, its hardness is 45-48 HRC. This steel is optimal for working on soft materials (wood and its derivatives - MDF, chipboard, fiberboard, as well as plastics);
CV(chrom vanadium) - Chrome is vanadium steel, its hardness should be 50-52 HRC. It is more wear-resistant compared to the previous one. Used for the same materials;
H.S.S.(high speed steel) - high-speed steel, also known as high-speed steel, hardness of at least 61-65 HRC, used for processing hard materials (aluminum and other non-ferrous metals and even mild steel). Compared to HCS, HSS files are thinner, but have significantly greater hardness;
BIM(bi-metal) is a combination of HSS and HCS steels in one sheet. Files of this kind are expensive and are usually used for professional use. They take both wood and metals well;
H.M.(hard material) - the hardest grade of steel, tungsten carbide hard alloy, hardness 79 HRC. Such blades are suitable for special types of work - cutting fiberglass, tiles and aerated concrete.
This classification is quite arbitrary and is not followed by all manufacturers. Therefore, it is worth discussing each file separately.
T101B- this is a fairly short fine-toothed file (length 74 mm). Designed for working on soft wood, plywood up to 30 mm thick. The fine tooth allows for a clean cut. 
The same thing, but with the teeth in the opposite direction. Excellent for cutting materials where chips on the front surface are undesirable (for example, tabletops). During operation, additional force is required to press the jigsaw onto the material, since the working stroke throws the tool upward.
T101P- has a larger tooth compared to T101B (4.5 mm). Allows you to cut the same materials, but their thickness can reach 45 mm.
Even longer file (91 mm), maximum thickness reaches 65 mm.
A narrow thin file with a fine tooth (1.4 mm) is used for clean curved cuts of wood and its derivatives with a thickness of 1.5 - 15 mm.
Short, fine-toothed bimetal file. Designed for sawing laminated materials up to 15 mm thick. - the same, the nose has a larger tooth (2.7 mm), the thickness of the materials reaches 30 mm.
The same, but with a reverse tooth.
This is a file with a fairly thick blade and large teeth (4 mm). The teeth are set apart. Due to its thickness, the file is more stable in one plane and does not move to the side. Disadvantages - it is a rough cut with a lot of chips.
The same thing, but with a bimetallic blade, it is more expensive, cuts longer and has a better length of 74 mm.
This file is twice as long as the above one - it is 126 mm.
T345XF is another long bimetal file (106 mm). Its tooth is quite large. Designed for cutting wood with nails, plastic, metals (including aluminum).
T118A- a short, fine-toothed file for metal sheets no more than 13 mm thick.
T318A- this is a longer file, great for cutting metal pipes with a diameter of no more than 65 mm.
T118G- the file has the finest teeth (0.7 mm) and is designed for cutting on the thinnest sheets of metal (0.5-1.5 mm)
T234X, T123X are universal saws for cutting various types of wood, plastic and metal.
Thin saw blade of stainless steel(up to 2 mm)
Longer file for steel 2-5 mm thick
Fiberglass file. Thickness limit 65 mm
Drywall saw and cement particle boards up to 50 mm thick
Longer blade (106 mm), which makes it possible to cut materials up to 85 mm thick
T101A- file for plexiglass up to 20 mm thick
T113A- file for leather, rubber, cardboard up to 50 mm thick. It has no teeth and has a cutting edge similar to a knife.
Longer saw blade for similar materials up to 100 mm thick. Has a wavy blade
T130Riff,T150Riff - files designed for cutting ceramic tiles. They are equipped with diamond coating. T130 is intended for rough cuts, and T150 is for finishing cuts.
T308B, T308BF - file, for cutting materials laminated on both sides. Thanks to two rows of teeth, the number of chips is minimized. This is a fairly thin file, so it shakes quite a lot from side to side.
There is a jigsaw not only in every workshop, but also, perhaps, in every home. This tool has gained such popularity due to its versatility and compactness. With its help, you can cut various sheet materials: wood of any species (from the softest to very hard); sheet metal; plastic; glass and ceramics, etc.
To work with a particular material, you need to choose the right saw blade (more often called simply a “file”), since the quality, cutting speed and overall ability to work depend on it. This will be discussed in this article.
Each saw has its own unique parameters, the combination of which determines the material that can be cut with it, as well as other cutting characteristics: the quality and speed of the saw. In addition, each file has design features, allowing you to use it with one or another. A separate article is devoted to this, but choosing the “right” file will be discussed in this article.
First you need to decide on the list of saw blade parameters that need to be taken into account. So this:
Let's look at these parameters in more detail.
To determine the standard for fastening the saw blade to, you need to look at the passport of your power tool - this should be indicated there. Although quite often several files are included in the kit and by looking at them, you can understand the type of shank that suits you.
Listed below are the main types of shanks found today.
The T-shank type is the most common type nowadays. This solution turned out to be the most successful and was “adopted” by a large number of power tool manufacturers. This type is often called Boschevsky, because it was the Bosch company that first offered to the market this type fastening the file. Subsequently, other manufacturers began to support this type of shank. Such companies include:
and others.
Shank having U shape, is considered an American standard, however, it can be considered obsolete, since it is almost never used now, although previously this type of shank was used on jigsaws with screw and block clamps from famous manufacturers:
This is Makita's proprietary shank type. These files are distinguished by their reliability and strong base. This blade can now also be considered outdated and is suitable only for some Makita jigsaws. In this regard, when changing the blade, it may be difficult to purchase it, since the demand for them is now very low, it will be difficult to find such files in the store.
This type of shank is very similar to the T-shaped one, but unlike it, it is proprietary to Bosch, and accordingly is suitable for jigsaw models only from this manufacturer. This type of fastening can also be considered outdated, and therefore it is very difficult to find it on sale.
So, to summarize, it becomes clear that the T-type shank is now some common standard and it superseded all other modifications that had previously taken place. Thus, this greatly simplifies the task for us (consumers) - there is a large selection and there is no need to think too much about shanks, although it is also necessary to know that, theoretically, I can come across non-standard options.
Like any object in Euclidean space, a file has three geometric dimensions: length, width and thickness. Each of these parameters is important and affects the result of the work in its own way. Now about this in more detail.
The parameter is clear and understandable - the longer the file, the greater the thickness of the sawn workpiece can be. The range of saw blade lengths for jigsaws is very large - from 40 mm to 250 mm. It would seem that you need to take the longest file and you won’t go wrong. Yes, a long saw is good, as it allows you to cut thick workpieces, but there are a number of issues.
It is important to pay attention to important point– to cut thick workpieces, you need not only a long saw blade – you need enough power for the jigsaw to cope with the load. If you don’t take this factor into account, you can simply ruin the tool - the jigsaw can simply “burn out.”
For an even saw (in a straight line), wide files are more suitable, since due to their width they prevent the cut from being pulled to the side. Accordingly, the wider the file, the more even the cut it can give. With narrow files the situation is the opposite - they are used where you need to make a figured or radius cut, respectively, the narrower the file, the greater the curvature of the cut.
And the last, but not least important parameter is the thickness of the file. The thicker the blade, the stronger the file, and accordingly, the more resistant it is to the applied forces and will not “be pulled” to the side. It would seem - the conclusion is obvious - we take the thickest files, however, as in the case of length, it is necessary to point out a number of circumstances. The thicker the file, the wider the cut width, which means:
In addition, it should be mentioned that not all thick files are suitable for the quick-release mechanism.
As always - there is not one universal solution for all occasions. Each time you need to support a file that is suitable at the moment, for the given task, and, of course, for your tool. You probably shouldn’t run to the store every time and select saw blades, but simply have a set of the most commonly used saw blade options.
The geometry of the cutting edge and the tooth set play an important role. The speed and quality of the cut depends on this. Obviously, the wider the teeth are spread in different directions, the wider the cut will be, and due to the fact that the blade itself does not rub against the edges of the cut, there is less resistance, less heating and a higher cutting speed. Of course, the flip side of these benefits is poor quality saw, as well as the difficulty of making an even cut due to the “pull” of the file to the side (since the blade is not fixed in the plane of the saw). There are several types of cutting edge geometry:
Each of these types of geometries has its own characteristics. Let's take a closer look at them.
This type of geometry is used for simple hand saws and consists in the fact that the teeth alternately move left and right. It is clear that in this case the blade practically does not rub against the walls of the saw, sawing is easy and fast, but talking about the quality of the cut and evenness in in this case no need to. This type of wiring is quite popular, as it is easy to manufacture and has its undeniable advantages.
For saw blades with this type of setting, the cutting edge has a wave shape, with several teeth falling into one half-wave and each of them has a different deviation from the central axis. This type of setting gives a clean cut, so it is mainly used when sawing hard wood, metal, etc.
As in the case of the “Milled with classic set” option, the teeth are alternately set in different directions, but at the same time they undergo an additional processing process - grinding. In this case, the cut is much cleaner, but the speed of work is maintained. This type of wiring is used for sawing, VDF, MDF, etc.
With this option, the teeth are almost not set, but they are specially sharpened and polished. When sawing with such blades, a very clean and even cut is obtained, but the speed of work suffers accordingly and a greater number of revolutions (saw frequency) of the tool is required.
From the very beginning, jigsaws were used exclusively for, but over time, the versatility of this tool has significantly expanded the scope of its use. Thus, at the moment you can cut almost any sheet material– this includes wood of various species and densities, metal, glass, ceramics, various glued and pressed boards (fibreboard, MDF, etc.). Manufacturers of saw blades, when developing specific models of files, determine its purpose by the type of material being cut; accordingly, the entire variety of saw blades for jigsaws can be divided into the following groups:
Let's take a closer look at each group of these classifications.
Sawing wood is the main purpose of a jigsaw, which is why there is the greatest variety of wood saws. This is dictated great variety types of wood and various boards derived from it (fibreboard, fiberboard, etc.).
All wood files are divided into several categories:
Quite often you need to quickly saw off a workpiece and the quality and cleanliness of the cut is not at all important. In this case, special files are used, which have some distinctive features:
In furniture production, cutting parquet board and in other cases, a high-quality and clean cut is required. For this purpose, special files are used, which can be recognized by the following distinctive features:
Typically the teeth point towards the jigsaw. This is done so that the main cutting movement occurs at the moment of retraction of the file (movement of the file towards the jigsaw), while the master does not experience special effort when sawing. The disadvantage of this principle is that chips from the file are obtained on the side that is visible to the master - where the marking line is. But sometimes it happens that you need to do the opposite in order to front side the cut (without chips) was exactly from above. In this case, special files with teeth are used that are directed away from the jigsaw. Sawing with such files is accompanied by increased efforts by the master, who must overcome the force of pushing out the file with a jigsaw.
A jigsaw is a universal tool - it allows you to make figured cuts, that is, with small radii of curvature, and in some cases it is even possible to “turn on the spot” (make the saw not smooth, but at an angle). For such a cut, special files are again needed - they are easy to recognize - they have:
A blind cut is a cut when the size of the maximum overhang of the file is less than the thickness of the workpiece.
This topic is quite controversial and there are many opinions on this matter. Nevertheless, we will state our position. A blind saw is possible and does occur. But you need to understand a number of points:
The file must have a special shape of the last tooth and the tip of the file, as shown in the picture.
When making a blind cut, the entire saw blade is used - this is for her maximum load and the load on the jigsaw itself. In addition, the cut is made in such a way that the last millimeter (or two) of the wood is simply crushed, so there are shock loads on the holder at the moment of maximum projection of the saw. Thus, it is not recommended to make a blind cut on hard wood, or on soft wood - for example, but the master must understand that the wear of the tool at this moment increases many times and the likelihood of breakdowns is very high.
The main work of sawing metal is done with a grinder, but sometimes you need to make a curved or radius cut. In such cases, a jigsaw with a special file will help. You can saw both steel blanks and non-ferrous metals. Metal is much denser than wood, so when working with metal you need to understand that the jigsaw works under a heavy load and you need to load it wisely.
Metal files are usually made of durable alloys and have fine teeth with wave winding (see above).
The jigsaw is easy to cut various types polymer materials, plastics, plexiglass, etc. There are specialized files for sawing these materials, although in practice wood or metal files are usually used. A simple rule works: the denser the material, the smaller the saw tooth should be, so simple wood saws are suitable for most plastics. It must be remembered that sawdust from plastic begins to melt at high temperatures; in this case, the saw teeth become clogged with melted plastic and lose their sawing properties. Therefore, it is important to monitor the temperature of the file and not overheat it; accordingly, you need to cut at low speeds and regularly let the file cool.
Exist various situations when it is necessary to saw various exotic materials that are not typical for sawing with a jigsaw - glass, ceramics, etc. There are special-purpose saws for these purposes. They are rare and unique, nevertheless they still find their place among craftsmen who work with these materials.
Manufacturers of saw blades must label them so that users can navigate the parameters and purpose of the proposed saw blades. There are various classifiers, but at the moment the most popular is the standard from Bosch, which is the leader in this topic.
The main marking is usually done on the shank, and Additional Information indicated on the saw plane.
| Position in code | Description | Values |
| First character (letter) | Shank type | "T" - T-shaped shank type "U" - U-shaped shank type "M" - Makita shank |
| Second character (number) | File length | “1” – short (up to 75 mm) “2” – standard (75-90 mm) “3” – extended (90-150 mm) “7” – long (more than 150 mm) |
| Third and fourth character (numbers) | Purpose of the file | /no information/ |
| Fourth character (letter) | Tooth size | “A” – small (metal, laminate) “B” – medium (wood, fiberboard, MDF, etc.) “C” and “D” – large (quick cut) |
| Fifth character (letter) | Additional Information | “F” – bimetallic blade (considered the strongest and most durable) “O” – narrow blade (for figured cutting) “P” – thick blade (allows you to cut strictly perpendicular to the surface) “R” – with reverse tooth “X” – with variable tooth size (universal blade, suitable for cutting any materials) |
The color of the shank can also tell the master about the purpose of this file:
On the neck of the file (between the shank and the saw plane) there is a marking of the type of material from which the file is made.
| Marking | Material |
| CV | Chrome vanadium steel (for wood and wood panels) |
| HCS | High carbon steel (for wood and wood-based panels, as well as plastic), |
| H.S.S. | High speed steel (for ferrous and non-ferrous metals) |
| H.M. | Hard alloy based on tungsten carbide (for ceramics, fiberglass, etc.) |
| BM(BIM or Bi-Metal) | Highly elastic combination of HSS and HCS (professional saw blades for wood and metal) |
Purpose of the file:
| Marking | Purpose |
| Wood | For soft wood and fiberboards |
| Hardwood | For hardwood and laminated panels |
| Inox | For stainless steel |
| Alu | For aluminum |
| Metal | For tin, metal profiles and pipes |
| Fiber&Plaster | For fiberglass |
| Soft-material | For soft materials(rubber, foam, cardboard, etc.) |
| Acrylic | For polycarbonate and plexiglass |
Clarifying information defining the type of work:
| Marking | Type of work |
| Basic | Standard blades for quality cuts |
| Speed | Fast cutting files |
| Clean | Blades for clean cutting (without toothing) |
| Progressor | Universal files with variable tooth sizes |
| Flexible | Blades with wavy layout for cutting metal |
| Special | Files for cutting ceramics, plastic and other highly specialized work |
Jigsaw files photo
The marking of jigsaw files can tell you a lot, including its purpose - you just need to look closely at it, meet and decipher familiar symbols, and everything immediately becomes clear. This is, of course, if you know how it is read. That is why, when studying replacement jigsaw blades, you need to start with their markings. As a rule, it is a set of Latin letters and Arabic numerals. The first is a letter and it indicates the type of shank. Typically, these are the letters "T", "X" or "U" - the latter is very rare, but the former is widespread and indicates that the shank is T-shaped.
Jigsaw blade: photo shank
Following the first letter there is a series of numbers - as a rule, there are three of them, but it is the first of them that is important. It indicates the length of the canvas:
After the numbers, there are letters again, but this time, they do not indicate the type of shank, but the size of the teeth - as a rule, this letters A,B,C and D. “A” is the smallest tooth, and “D” is the largest. "B" and "C" should be understood as intermediate options.
Quite often, in the marking of jigsaws, there may be not one letter at the end, but two - the last of them indicates unique qualities consumables. Let's look at them in a little more detail - we won't write large lists. As they say, only the most necessary and common:
What else can you read when studying the inscriptions that are applied to the jigsaw blade? In principle, you can additionally learn about the material that was used to make it. By and large, this is not important, but if you want to buy a really high-quality canvas that can work for a long time, you need to have this information. Between the T-shaped protrusions of the shank and the saw blade itself, you can find three Latin letters, which tell about the material from which the file is made. There are not many options here - only four:
I would like to note right away that the main purpose of an electric jigsaw is to work with wood and materials made on its basis (chipboard, plywood, ...) - everything else is, as they say, a secondary use. For this reason, jigsaw files for wood have a lot of varieties - they can differ both in the size of the tooth and the angle of its sharpening, and in the shape of the file itself. In general, without delving into the study of these instruments, we can distinguish two main types:
Well, as for the subtypes of these wood blades for a jigsaw, you shouldn’t bother with them - as a rule, this is more of a specialized tool, and it’s not a fact that it will show itself in the best way. Let me give you a simple example - blade T101BR, with a reverse tooth direction. One of the recommended uses for this file is on a laminated surface. Practice shows that an ordinary wood blade with fine teeth can do a good job - a reverse blade cuts worse and also creates vibrations and a lot of inconvenience in work.
Any jigsaw file for metal has a fine tooth and its marking, last or penultimate, always contains the Latin letter “A” - this is due to the strength of the material. The harder the material, the finer the tooth needed to cut it. There are no special varieties of blades for metal - the only thing that can be mentioned here is the shape of the cutting edge.
In many ways, the purpose of metal files for a jigsaw is determined by other factors - you need to understand that every different type metal has its own characteristics. For example, aluminum is a soft and tough metal - if you use a standard blade with a fine tooth to saw it, then most likely it will be ineffective and will clog. For of this material files are produced separately - for example, blade T224D, with Alu written on it.
And finally, a few words about the so-called special jigsaw blades - most of them have narrow specialization, and they can only be used on certain materials. In particular, there are separate saws for plastic, aluminum, profile metal, pipes, ceramics, cement, sandwich panels and even boards with nails. The most notable of them, so to speak unique in their kind, can be called a diamond jigsaw file, which is used for very hard materials and ferrous metals, and the so-called jigsaw file. The latter cannot be used in mass production - it cuts confidently, but slowly.
Various jigsaw blades photos
In principle, all that can be highlighted in the entire variety of replacement blades for jigsaws is that there is not much left to say. For household use, you don’t need to buy absolutely all types of files - there is a so-called “gentleman’s set” that includes five files that can cope with all household needs. These are the T101D (for rough cutting of wood), T101B (for fine cutting of wood), T101BR (for finishing work with a reverse tooth), T119BO (for shape cutting of wood) and the standard metal file T118A. These jigsaw files will fully satisfy any home craftsman.
Author of the article Alexander Kulikov
