Below we list the pros and cons of using the technology of building houses from SIP panels.
Structural Insulated Panel (SIP), or structural insulating panel (SIP), is universal for walls, ceilings and roofs of low-rise residential buildings. It is three-layer, consists of facings (two moisture-resistant oriented strand boards - OSB) and a core (expanded polystyrene sheet), glued together under pressure polyurethane glue.
Standard panels have a height of 2.8 or 2.5 m (with a width of 1.25 m) - they are used for the walls of the first and second floors, respectively. With classical technology with platform floors, the height of the panel is equal to the height of the rooms without finishing. However, if the house is planned to have a ducted ventilation, air conditioning and air heating, and the floors are on joists, then the ceilings will drop by 15-20 cm. Therefore, it is advisable to order panels 3 m high for the first floor (alas, only some companies make them), and for the second - 2.8 m.
Products are produced in thicknesses of 224 (12 + 200 + 12), 174 (12 + 150 + 12) and 124 (12 + 100 + 12) mm. Of the first, floors and roofs are erected, the second in central Russia are optimal for external (as well as internal load-bearing) walls, the third are suitable for.
There are also cheaper products on the market with linings 9 mm thick, but they are only suitable for walls and partitions of small one-story buildings.
Companies that build houses from SIP panels recommend making one that fully meets the concept of a prefabricated building. Piles for a house with an area of up to 150 m² can be installed in two to three days, and with the help of a special installation - in one day; Assembling a grillage from a channel or timber frame will also not take much time.
The force of frost heaving is many times greater than the load from light walls made of SIP panels. In such conditions, piled and insulated shallow foundations work best.
(their most common diameter is 108 mm, length - 2.5 and 3 m) are placed under external and internal main walls, as well as crossbars (they are needed to reduce the span of beams) in increments of 1.5–2 m. Such a base leads well itself on heaving soils and practically does not settle under light walls - provided that the laying depth was determined not randomly, but as a result of test screwing with force measurement: the blades of the piles should rest on dense layers of soil.
To last for more than 50 years, you need to purchase steel piles with a thickness of at least 4 mm with cast tips, which resist corrosion much better than welded ones; After installation, they should be filled with concrete. One support, including installation, will cost 2,400–2,700 rubles, that is, the cost of a foundation for a house measuring 8 × 10 m will not exceed 100 thousand rubles. True, finishing the basement will require additional costs: you will have to install cement-bonded or glass-magnesite sheets (for facing with tiles or stone) or decorative panels on the frame.
Main alternative pile-screw foundation- traditional for country house construction a shallow-buried strip 0.3–0.4 m wide and 0.6–0.8 m high. If you prepare concrete yourself rather than buy it at a factory, such a foundation will cost slightly less than a pile foundation, but the construction time will increase by at least 3 weeks . The key to the reliability of a strip foundation is a correctly executed reinforcement frame; it should be designed in accordance with SP 63.13330.2012 (the main requirements are the presence of at least two reinforcing belts and reinforcement coefficient of at least 0.1%). The base of this foundation cannot be erected on heterogeneous soils with quicksand. The lightweight one is optimal for swampy areas with highly heaving and weak-bearing soils. The slab is poured on top of a sand-gravel drainage pad, a layer of extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of at least 100 mm and a waterproofing substrate. The minimum thickness of the slab is 200 mm, and it must be reinforced with a two-level frame made of rods with a diameter of 12 mm. To protect the walls from water (mainly melt water), it is worth erecting a reinforced concrete plinth 0.3–0.5 m high along the contour of the slab. It is advisable to insulate the blind area and the plinth with 50 mm thick EPS sheets.
It is advisable to strengthen the foundation made of steel piles with a grillage made of a channel or I-beam. The grillage rand beams must be welded to each other and, in addition, welded to the piles. Metal parts must be protected from corrosion and isolated from the wooden frame with rolled waterproofing.
When installing a floating strip foundation, there is no point in going deep into clay soil - it is better to build up the above-ground part, which will serve as a plinth. The reinforcement frame should be knitted with galvanized wire. The connections must be strong and durable, because the frame must work as a single unit throughout the entire service life of the foundation.
Despite the fact that the technology is considered unified, each company and even team has its own methods of assembling enclosing structures - successful and not so successful.
Construction requires products of both standard and non-standard sizes - lintels over openings, partitions, roofing elements, etc. Large companies with their own production line carry out cutting only in factory conditions. Small firms and “autonomous” teams often cut out the required fragments on site using a circular saw and a foam grater (using this tool to select grooves along the perimeter of the panels). With this method, there is a high risk of violating the geometric dimensions of rooms and openings, and the appearance of gaps at the joints of parts.
The construction technology involves the installation of a hidden frame, the parts of which are inserted into the grooves of the panels. For the frame, select chamber-dried lumber should be used, impregnated with an antiseptic composition, and for floor beams it is advisable to use either a wooden I-beam. Alas, sometimes under-dried products are used, which can warp, which will lead to the appearance of cracks and deformation of walls and ceilings. The junction of panels with frame elements is always sealed with polyurethane foam. However, some teams are accustomed to assembling racks from two boards, simply tightening them with screws without any sealing of the seam. In this case, 150 × 100 mm timber can be installed in the corners. It seems that this should increase the strength of the frame of the house, but in practice such a solution only guarantees freezing of the corner in the harsh winter.
Attic or floor attic floor can be built either using SIP panels or using traditional technology with insulation with mineral wool or other materials.
Sometimes you can hear that a roofing cake based on SIP panels is more resistant to moisture (after all, expanded polystyrene has extremely low water absorption). However, the constant presence of moisture (which can seep through roof covering or coming from below in the form of steam) leads to the destruction of panel coverings (OSB). In addition, at temperatures above 80 ° C, the process of thermal destruction of expanded polystyrene begins.
Therefore, it is necessary to provide a ventilation gap between the SIP panels and the roofing material. You can’t do without a layer of vapor barrier on the side of the premises, as well as a ventilated ridge.
The load-bearing part of the roof made of SIP panels includes a ridge beam, purlins (parallel to the ridge load-bearing beams) and layered rafters, the function of which is performed by the beams between the panels. Installed panels covered with a continuous carpet of rolled vapor-permeable waterproofing, then a slatted sheathing is installed, to which a roofing covering (for example, profiled steel sheets) or another layer of OSB is attached, which serves as the basis for flexible bitumen shingles.
Air handling unit should be placed in a soundproofed room: the noise during its operation reaches 45 dB. From installation in risers, behind false ceilings and inside the ceiling, air ducts are laid - usually round section with a diameter of 100-150 mm.
SIP panels insulate heat well, but are not able to accumulate it. As a result, the so-called thermos effect occurs in the house: after airing the room, the outside coolness remains for a long time. And you have to ventilate regularly, since in sealed rooms the air quickly becomes saturated with moisture and carbon dioxide. As a result, the benefits of using effective insulation are greatly reduced, and fluctuations in temperature and humidity create discomfort.
Only a forced supply and exhaust system with heat recovery, which will provide zonal air exchange, can radically change the situation for the better. The main element of such a system is a recovery unit. For a cottage with an area of about 120 m2, where a family of three or four people lives, an installation with a capacity of 180-250 m3/h is sufficient, the price of which will be 60-250 thousand rubles. depending on the design and manufacturer. The cost of the system with installation varies between 350-700 thousand rubles. without taking into account the costs of creating hidden cavities for laying ventilation ducts.
In the vast majority of cases, the inside of walls made of SIP panels is sheathed with plasterboard, sheets of which can be attached directly to the internal OSB. The sheathing is made of two layers, providing channels for electrical wiring in the first layer (the cables must be placed in protective corrugated pipes or PVC boxes). With the traditional method of installing gypsum boards (using lath or steel sheathing), pipes and cables are laid in cavities under the sheathing.
A curtain façade is most often installed outside. In addition, plastering is possible, but in order to avoid cracks it is advisable to use technology wet facade, With , wooden planks, composite panels.
Building a house from SIP panels with your own hands.
Here we give a summary of tips for building houses from general plan sip panels:
In the vast majority of cases, two types of foundations - on screw piles and shallow-buried strip foundations - can completely solve the problem of reliable support for a Canadian house in the Moscow region.
If you make a concrete pile foundation (below the freezing depth) for a lightweight Canadian house on heaving soil, it is better using TISE technology (with widening of the lower part of the piles) and with high grillage (with a gap between the grillage and the ground).
This is correct in theory. In practice, in the Moscow region, bored piles are often made under SIP houses without widening, and often the grillage is supported on the ground (low grillage).
Problems do happen, but in most cases, lightweight houses on such foundations stand without problems. The fact is that a powerful reinforced concrete grillage not only prevents uneven subsidence of the piles under the weight of the house, but also compensates for the uneven pushing out of the piles by the lateral forces of frost heaving. In essence, we are dealing with a “floating” foundation of an unreasonably expensive and complex design.
Why are such foundations made? The answer is simple: “Customers love it.”
Clients like a lot of things that are harmful. For example, it is beautiful when the foam protruding from the joints of SIP panels is neatly cut off.
But this cannot be done outside. Until the exterior finishing of the house begins, the polyurethane foam is destroyed by ultraviolet radiation from the sun. Pruning only speeds up this process.
The best for a house made of SIP panels pile foundation — screw. The blade of a screw pile performs the same function as widening the lower part of a columnar foundation made using TISE technology: it reduces the pressure of the loaded pile on the ground and prevents it from being pulled out by the forces of frost heaving of the soil.
Thus, the screw pile, working as an anchor, provides a fixed point of support if the piles are screwed below the freezing depth into the load-bearing (!) soil..
Due to the increased rigidity of SIP structures, they are less sensitive to seasonal ground movements. For small ones country houses most suitable inexpensive option- foundation on pillars.
As a rule, these are small concrete blocks, installed on a sand bedding (necessarily at the corners of the house, the joints of load-bearing walls and several intermediate ones).
Construction using Canadian technology is possible at any time of the year. A great time for construction is winter. Due to rain, construction may take a little longer. Measures must be taken to prevent dirt from entering the construction site.
There may be problems with access to the site. In terms of weather, summer is the most favorable season for DIY construction. But summer has its own difficulties due to the growing excitement for construction market with quite understandable consequences.
Important question: What structural elements of a house should be assembled from SIP? External walls are always assembled from SIP panels. The walls turn out surprisingly warm and smooth.
Domestic load-bearing walls It is also advisable to assemble it from SIP panels. The issue of partitions is secondary. Partitions can be assembled from anything even at the final finishing stage. Most often, partitions are assembled from SIP panels with a thickness of 124 mm.
The use of SIP panels for the assembly of zero and attic floors or roofs is justified by their high thermal insulation ability.
SIP flooring does not require a subfloor. Finish floor coverings (laminate, linoleum, carpet, etc.) are laid directly on the SIP floor.
Use SIP for assembly interfloor overlapping is possible, but not entirely advisable due to low impact noise indicators.
Making a complex roof from SIP panels is problematic. It is possible to assemble a roof of any complexity from SIP, but a reasonable question arises - why, if a proven classic rafter system with insulation is simpler?
It is not recommended to use beams made from boards assembled at a construction site for joining SIP panels due to the risk of cracks forming. A massive wooden beam If you can find the required cross-section in the markets, it’s only raw.
This requires clarification. Concepts dry or raw lumber (timber, boards, etc.) are used only for household level. In fact, all lumber contains moisture. Excessively damp wood has many disadvantages, one of which is shrinkage (change in linear dimensions).
Moisture in wood is present in 2 forms - free (capillary), filling cell cavities and intercellular space (up to 70%), and bound (hygroscopic), located in cell membranes (about 30%).
Removal free removal of moisture (often called plant sap) occurs quite quickly and easily during atmospheric drying. Moreover without change linear dimensions and volume of wood. Only its density decreases. Very often, a board from which a significant part has been removed is called “dry.” free moisture.
The problem is that wood shrinks later, namely through evaporation. related moisture! It is at this stage that the linear dimensions of wooden lumber are significantly reduced.
During forced chamber drying, dry-looking coniferous lumber shrinks up to 12% in the transverse direction to the fibers!
Due to the anisotropic structure of wood, removal related moisture is accompanied by cracking and warping. Therefore, truly dry lumber can be distinguished from raw lumber without a moisture meter. presence of cracks.
To remove most of the bound moisture, forced (chamber) drying is necessary. Therefore dry edged There is no lumber on the markets. All that is sold is a cheese cutter - freshly sawn wood, which must be dried in a chamber.
Kiln-dried lumber is expensive. In addition, after drying to the required moisture content, edged lumber loses its GOST dimensions.
Planing (sizing) eats up a few more millimeters of thickness and width, which ultimately makes such lumber unsuitable for joining SIP panels with polystyrene foam thicknesses of 100 mm, 150 mm and 200 mm.
Massive timber with a thickness of 100x150 mm and 100x200 mm of chamber drying is almost impossible to find. Solid timber requires particularly mild drying conditions, i.e. special equipment.
Regular drying chambers designed for drying boards up to 50 mm thick for further planing into moldings or for the production of laminated veneer lumber, I-beams, furniture panels, etc.
Today there is no acceptable alternative to massive rectangular beams for joining 174 or 224 mm SIPs in floors and roofs. Wooden I-beams (I-Joist, etc.) with a height of 200 mm are rather weak for this purpose.
A massive rectangular beam of 100x200mm can replace a 300mm I-beam in terms of rigidity and strength, but you can’t fit it into a 224mm SIP panel.
LVL and laminated timber are expensive. For example, the retail price of laminated timber 100x200 mm is 650 rubles. per m.p. (May 2013). This is more than 30 thousand rubles. per m3.
Floors and roofs are places where insulated classic beam (rafter) structures compete with SIP structures in terms of price, manufacturability and other parameters. If technical details You are of little interest, go straight to the next point.
Often, especially in small buildings, the device of zero overlap and SIP roof is the most optimal solution. But for large spans, traditional floors on wooden beams may be better than SIP floors.
It's not just a matter of price. We wrote about the problem of connecting beams in floors and roofs above in the previous paragraph. There are other reasons to take into account when making your decision:
The SIP panel by its design is a wall panel and is designed to bear large longitudinal loads. As a ceiling, the SIP panel does not have any special advantages, although it has good bending strength.
The ground floor and interfloor floors of a house must not only withstand certain loads, but also be sufficiently rigid (not bend too much). The floor should not “walk” under your feet. It is easier to assemble a floor of the required rigidity from beams of a suitable cross-section.
SIP floor panels are often made narrower (usually twice as large - 625 mm). Joining the panels on floor beams. This means that the main load-bearing element the ceiling made from SIP panels is still the same wooden beam. The rigidity of a beam is determined not so much by its cross-sectional area as by its height and shape. And 200 mm, which is dictated by the “slab” panel, is good for spans of up to 4 meters.
If the spans are longer than the length of the SIP panel, then the strength of the floor depends on the beams (at the transverse joints of the panels, the entire load falls on the beams)! For this reason, for spans of more than 5 meters, it is better not to make SIP floors - the pitch of 625 mm of beams with a height of 200 mm is too large (according to SNiP, the permissible span for a beam of 200x100 mm with a pitch of 625 mm is less than 5 m).
If floor beams are installed with a pitch of 625 mm, as in a SIP floor, then sewn onto the beams at the top and bottom OSB boards-3 and without glued polystyrene foam they will work like shelves on an I-beam! OSB-3 slabs for covering floor beams, unlike SIP, do not need to be cut into strips 625 mm wide. It will take half as many self-tapping screws for installation (saving effort and time).
The ceiling must have the same thickness everywhere, but the spans it covers are most often different. The beams can be laid out in different directions and with different steps, thereby optimizing material consumption. Usually the largest spans are above the living room. There it is advisable to make the ceiling stiffer by reducing the pitch of the beams and (or) increasing their cross-sectional area.
When making floors from SIP, this possibility will most often not be available. The overlap will turn out to be weak in some places, and vice versa in others. Cover the spans above the bathroom, hallway, etc. beams 200x100 mm with a pitch of 625 mm - this is luxury.
The photo shows that the main damage to the SIP sheathing occurred in the area of the panel joints. The most likely reason is the penetration of steam under the waterproofing substrate of soft tiles from the attic through poor-quality joints of SIP panels. When installing soft roof directly on the SIP surface it is necessary to vapor barrier the joints SIP panels on the premises side. You can use adhesive tape:
This rule should also be followed when decorating external walls with SIP. If something that impedes the escape of steam is mounted directly on the SIP sheathing without a ventilation gap, the joints of the SIP panels on the room side should be well vapor-insulated. As they say in the birthplace of SIP technology, "That's why foam plus tape makes so much sense to us."
For the same reason, it is undesirable to vapor barrier SIP structures of the zero (lower) floor from below from the underground side. This is often done with bitumen mastics because “customers like it.” This does not increase the service life of the ceiling. It is necessary to take care of good ventilation of the underground by installing a sufficient number of vents in the basement!
If the ventilation of the underground is poor, bitumen mastic will hide from view problems with OSB-3 sheathing that may occur due to constant moisture, which will not allow taking the necessary measures to eliminate the causes in a timely manner. The same thing can happen as with OSB-3 under a bitumen roof in the photo above.
For external protection of enclosing structures from moisture, special vapor-permeable membranes (wind protection) are used, which protect the structure from precipitation and wind, but do not prevent steam from escaping from the structure to the outside.
It doesn't have to be film. Many Decoration Materials can perform the function of vapor barrier of the building envelope.
For example, a 12 mm thick OSB-3 board prevents the diffusion of water vapor as a vapor barrier (Sd > 2 m according to DIN 52615), so SIP panels do not need a vapor barrier.
Other examples are elastic plaster, laminate on a synthetic backing, etc. Linoleum will protect the lower floor from both steam and moisture.
The basic rule for constructing multilayer enclosing structures is that the vapor permeability of the wall should increase from the inner surface (warm room) to the outer surface (street). If you do the opposite, give steam from warm light indoors entrance and make it difficult to exit, then it will remain in the enclosing structure, wetting and destroying the building material.
If subsequently, at some point in the joints of SIP panels, a space unfilled with foam is discovered, there is no need to panic. The defect can be easily eliminated at any time. It is enough to make a small hole in the SIP panel sheathing and foam the voids polyurethane foam.
If the exterior decoration of the house is postponed, it is better to hide the external walls of the SIP house from the effects of ultraviolet radiation and slanting rains. Unprotected from sunlight polyurethane foam quickly breaks down, wood dries out and cracks (especially on sunny side). Because of this, during heavy slanting rain, moisture can penetrate into structures.
To prevent this from happening, you need to seal the resulting gaps with mounting material. Increased attention should be paid to protecting the joints of walls and ceilings from rain. The simplest and most inexpensive way is to sheathe the outside of the walls with a membrane (wind protection) that does not allow moisture to enter the walls, but allows steam to escape outside.
A few notes on the operation of a “freshly built” SIP house. For various reasons, the design of a house may contain excess moisture. Most often it is bad weather. It is rarely possible to assemble a house without rain.
Excess moisture from the structure enters the air, so in the initial stages of operation of the house it is possible high humidity indoor air. During this period, increased attention to ventilation of the house is necessary.
Insufficient ventilation can lead to problems, since humidity and heat are a fertile environment for blackness and even mold to appear on the surface of wood. Ventilation and treatment of problem areas with a protective composition effectively eliminates adverse effects. But it is better not to allow them.
You need to be especially careful during the cold season. Despite the cold, at first the windows in all rooms should be kept slightly open. Turning on the heating in a clogged room can cause the air humidity to rise so that the dew point is on the surface of the walls.
Unfavorable conditions for wooden structures may occur when heating only parts of the rooms. Water vapor from warm rooms enters cold rooms and condenses on the walls there. Dampness forms with all the ensuing consequences.
The construction industry is gaining momentum and improving every day. Thanks to these processes, it is possible to build a massive house of any number of floors at minimal cost. Moreover, such a building will have high quality. Besides high level You can evaluate the strength of SIP panels by watching the video in this article. In our article we will get acquainted with the advantages and disadvantages of such material, and how to build a house from vulture panels.
Do-it-yourself construction of houses from vulture panels is gaining momentum in popularity. Why is this happening? Sip panels have the following advantages compared to other materials:
Attention! Such unique features make it possible to make almost any type of building from Sip, from warehouses to country cottages.
In this section, we need to consider all the disadvantages of the material for building a house from vulture products without unforeseen problems:
If you have already decided on the material, and this is Sip panels, then below we will look at how to build a house using Canadian technology with your own hands.
The construction of buildings from such material includes some construction stages:
Let's look at each stage of work in more detail.
Before you begin building a facility using SIP panels, you must perform the following series of actions:
Now we can begin laying the subfloor. To do this you need to use panels. We lay them over the entire area of the building, but before that we need to waterproof it. Either bitumen mastic or roofing felt will help us with this. Each groove should be treated with sealant - this is necessary for merging the panels.
Attention! In order to secure the parts more firmly, you can use self-tapping screws, and then lubricate all the ends with a special agent.
After the previous stages are completed, construction of the frame house can begin. To do this you should do the following:
With such a construction there is no need to create truss structure, since the structure can withstand heavy loads. Also, for this stage there is no need to additionally perform steam and waterproofing. You can watch the video of building a house from sip panels in more detail. In general, the process of installing a roof is carried out according to the same scheme as installing walls.
If the walls are made of Sip panels, then the building receives a large number of advantages over other types. Thus, they are characterized by a smooth and even surface. That is why finishing work is much easier than for other materials. To do this, you can use drywall, without installing the frame. You can also use clapboard, siding, tiles or stones. You can attach finishing products using construction adhesive.
Attention! Flooring can be created using parquet, tiles, linoleum and other options.
By constructing a building from sip panels, you can achieve a very stable and reliable result. Plus, the price will pleasantly surprise you.
Construction of houses from sip panels has become widespread in Canada and Europe. Today this method enjoys well-deserved popularity in our country. Many companies provide these services, but due to the ease of use, it is possible to build a house from sip panels yourself, without the involvement of qualified performers. If you follow simple technology, you can a short time get a decent result.
Sip panels are three-layer sandwich panels. Between two layers of solid sheet material there is a heat-insulating and sound-proofing layer. OSB boards are most often used as outer layers; polystyrene foam is used as a filler. Mineral wool is used less frequently for filling, since this significantly increases the weight and cost of the elements. The outside is treated with fire-fighting and antiseptic impregnations. Sip sandwiches are produced in various thicknesses - 124; 174 and 224 mm, depending on the purpose. The main linear dimensions are 2500*1250 mm and 2800*1250 mm, although products of other sizes can be ordered. 
The popularity of this product is due to big amount advantages:
The disadvantages include:
You need to take a responsible approach to choosing SIPs so that they meet all the specified requirements. The presence of impregnation for biological protection, fire-resistant and moisture-resistant coatings, the thickness of the frame coating and the density of the insulating layer.
The most important step is the selection and correct construction of the foundation. The light weight of the structure allows the use of any type of base: shallow-depth tape, monolithic or columnar type. Most often, screw piles are used, which reduces the construction time to 2-3 days. This process is carried out as carefully as possible, avoiding errors and inaccuracies. The installation of a pile foundation can be done with your own hands. The site is marked according to the project, starting from the corners. Axial threads are stretched between the corner pegs and locations for the piles are marked. The distance for adjacent supports is 2-2.5 m. After which the piles are twisted to the required depth, below the freezing point of the soil for this climate zone.
Using a level, a single level is found for the entire frame. Horizontal leveling can be done by additional twisting or cutting off excess. The twisting fitting method is not recommended, as this loosens the soil. After this, we connect the “heels” of the piles using a metal channel, lay a waterproofing layer, for which we use roofing material, and mount the strapping beam on top using bolted connections.
You can assemble a complete floor from sip panels with your own hands. To do this, frame slabs are laid over the area, having previously been treated with waterproofing mastic. A connecting beam is used as a lag. At all joints for better sealing polyurethane foam sealant is applied. After this, to improve strength, all connections are fastened with self-tapping screws in increments of 10-15 cm. Often, an additional boardwalk is mounted on top of the “pie” using self-tapping screws. Finally, a strapping is installed, along which the walls of the future home will be directly assembled.
Despite the apparent complexity, building walls is also quite doable with your own hands. We begin assembling the structure from the corner, for which we align the corner panels horizontally and vertically, using building level for quality control. Next, from the exposed corner multilayer slabs, we install the subsequent ones ourselves, heading in two directions to the next corners. We glue each connecting groove using mounting sealant. Upon completion of the construction of the walls of the first floor, we lay a strapping board on top, which will act as a base for the interfloor ceiling. 
We install the floors by analogy with the floor, performing step-by-step technology for laying slabs. If necessary, we strengthen the structure additional beam. In the ceilings, it is necessary not to forget the technological holes for ventilation ducts and other communications. With the help of connecting board releases, you can form a base for balconies, loggias, and various decorative structures.
The fastening of the structural elements of the second floor is similar in design to the installation of sip sandwiches on the first level.
When arranging a roof, for small volumes you can do without installing a rafter system, since the panels have the necessary safety margin. This method saves a significant amount of money. At large areas roof rafters must be installed. But even in this case, the savings are noticeable, because the use of additional waterproofing films and other coatings is eliminated. On top, for ventilation, a slatted sheathing is installed and the final finishing of the roof is carried out with any chosen material: metal tiles, ondulin, etc. 
When the work is done correctly, we obtain smooth and even surfaces that can easily be finished with any material. For internal space plasterboard is most often used in bathrooms and kitchens - ceramic tiles. Siding and decorative plasters are suitable for the street.
Thus, the widespread use of sip sandwiches for the construction of buildings is due to the undoubted advantages of the material, the ability to perform the entire complex of work with your own hands, as well as significant savings during the construction process and subsequent operation.
Instructions for assembling a house from sip panels. SIP Houses are produced at the SIP 47 plant as a house kit, that is, a set of plank elements and SIP panels made with high accuracy based on the project chosen by the customer. The house kit made from sip panels can only be assembled at the construction site, like a children's construction set. All products are marked, and a wiring diagram is attached to the set of elements, following which you should make installation sip panels. Before starting work you need to study wiring diagram and check the completeness of the package.
In order to better understand the installation features, you need to have an understanding of SIP panels.
Screwdriver (assembly with screws)/ nailer (assembly with nails);
Chainsaw;
Circular Saw;
Roulette;
Building level;
Thermal knife for making a groove in SIP panels.
SIP panel(structural insulated panel) is a building product that includes two OSB (oriented strand) boards with an insert of insulation - expanded polystyrene foam (EPS) between them, connected and pressed using a special glue under a pressure of 20 tons. This structure allows the panels to perform a dual function - they serve not only for heat and sound insulation of enclosing structures, but are also able to withstand significant compressive and bending loads. Therefore, these products are suitable for the construction of all types of buildings. They are used for walls, partitions, as floor slabs and roof coverings. 
The thickness varies in these sizes from 68 mm to 244 mm. A frequently used sip panel with a thickness of 174 mm (with a thickness of PPS 15 cm, OSB 12 mm) width 1,250 m; length from 2.5 m to 2.8 m.
For the construction of enclosing walls, standard sip panels of 17.4 cm are used, for floors and roofs - 17.4 - 22.4 cm thick. Products 12.4 cm thick are used for partitions in the house.
Sip panels are lightweight - no more than 20 kg/m2, which allows them to be installed by two or three people and without the use of a crane, and can also be easily processed and cut using hand-held power tools.
Foundations can be monolithic strip, pile, and design in the form of a monolithic ribbed slab. The type of foundation should be selected based on the properties of the soils underlying the structure at the construction site. When choosing the type of foundation, it is recommended to use pile foundation– the most suitable in terms of simplicity of design, relatively low cost, possibility of use in most types of soil conditions and ease of combination with the base of a prefabricated SIP house structure. 
To support the harness at the top steel pipes protruding above the ground surface, special heads with a horizontal metal plate are installed, or a steel beam from a channel can be laid with the shelves up. In the latter case, the strapping beam is attached to the steel beam with anchors every 50 cm. After the screw piles are immersed in the ground, they are united by a lower strapping or support beam with a section of 200x200 mm, which is the load-bearing basis of the entire designs SIP at home. The strapping beam is attached to each pile with self-tapping screws with a diameter of up to 12 mm.
The strapping beam must first be impregnated with a fire-retardant composition, and a gasket made of bituminized paper, roofing felt or other rolled waterproofing materials is laid between its lower surface and the support plates of the heads. 
If the support beam is laid on metal beam or on strip or slab foundation waterproofing must be laid under the entire lower surface of the beam.
The strapping beam is installed exactly according to the markings corresponding to the layout of the SIP house and its assembly room scheme. 
At corners and intersections, the beam elements are connected to each other by tie-in brackets and fastened with 8x180 mm self-tapping screws. The fastening to the brackets is time-tested; the brackets can withstand heavy loads and do not burst. Provide additional rigidity and strength in critical areas.
In the case when the support beam is laid on a horizontal concrete surface other types of foundations, it is secured with anchor bolts, which must be buried into the body of the foundation by at least 100 mm with a length increment of 500 mm.
After installing and securing the lower support beam to the foundation, a SIP floor is mounted on it, including: wooden beams-logs 100x150, connecting inserts between panels made of timber with a cross-section of at least 50x150 mm and SIP floor panels. The logs are installed in the grooves located in each sip panel along the perimeter. First, the first vulture floor panel is laid on any of the corners, the groove at the end is filled with foam from mounting cylinder. A short connecting beam with a cross-section of 50x150 is inserted into this groove, which is fastened through the OSB board sheathing with screws with a diameter of 3.5 mm and a length of 40 mm on wood every 15 cm in length. Then a groove is foamed at the end of the second sip panel, and it is joined to the first sip panel. In this case, the protruding part of the connecting beam fits into the groove of the second product and is also fastened with screws for woodworking through the sheathing.
How many screws do you need for one SIP panel? In increments of 15 cm, on average, one panel 2500x1250 mm will require 100 pieces. self-tapping screws, 80 pieces for half 600x2500 mm.
After connecting and securing the first row of basement vulture panels to each other along the outermost span of the vulture house, located near end wall, a joist beam is installed along the entire length of the span. Before this, the grooves of the products are filled again assembly room foam and the beam slides into this groove. 
The subsequent assembly of panels, connecting bars and installation of joists is carried out in the same way, until one continuous plane of the vulture floor is formed. For fastening wooden beams Wood screws with a diameter of 4.2 mm and a length of 75 mm are used for flat floor products. In places determined by the installation diagram, reinforced beams and timber are installed. The entire ceiling is fastened through the joists to the strapping beam with self-tapping screws measuring 8 x 280 mm. 
The resulting open ends of the vulture ceiling of the first floor of the house are sewn up with a board having a section of 50 by 150 mm or 100/150 mm on all sides. 
Design The first floor of a house made of sip panels is a frame consisting of wooden posts and SIP wall parts attached to the lower framing beam, posts, and fastened together. At the initial stage of assembling the enclosing structures of the walls of the first floor of the house kit, boards with a section of 25x150 mm are placed on the solid basement floor for each wall, the layout of which must correspond to the design layout and installation diagram. The strapping boards are attached with self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4.2 mm and length 75 mm to the ceiling every 40 cm. Marking for laying the strapping must be done with maximum accuracy without deviations from the diagram, so as not to cause difficulties in the future. It should be noted that there should be gaps between the edge of the basement floor, which coincide in thickness with the sheathing of the vulture panel made of OSB board - 12 mm, as indicated in the installation diagram. The strapping boards are laid without breaks in places corresponding to the location of the openings for installing doors in order to increase the accuracy and speed of their installation. Later, after installing the sip wall panels, cutouts are made in these places, so this must be taken into account when placing self-tapping screws. The main stage of wall assembly can begin from any corner of the SIP house, where a vertical stand with a cross section of 100 by 150 is first installed mm, which is attached to the bottom trim board with two self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4.2 mm and a length of 7.5 mm, the first panel is mounted to it. 
Next, on one of the corner sip panels, the side groove is filled with mounting foam, then the product is placed in the design position with fastening to the rack. In this case, the stand should fit tightly into the side groove of the sip panel. After checking the vertical position of the element using a plumb line or level, the panel is attached to the trim board along the bottom edge and the stand using galvanized wood screws with a diameter of 3.5 mm and a length of 40 mm on each side from the bottom and along the side edge after 15 cm. 
In the same way, another vertical beam and a second flat wall product are installed, adjacent to the corner of the house on the other side. After checking the verticality, both corner wall products are additionally secured to each other using structural screws with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 200 mm in increments of 50-60 cm in height. 
Starting from the first corner sip panels, racks and ordinary sip panels of external and internal walls are sequentially mounted in each direction. Before installing each element, the side grooves are foamed, the sip panels are attached along the side edges to the vertical beams and from below to the trim with screws with a diameter of 3.5 mm and a length of 40-45 mm every 15 cm on both sides. 
At corner joints and T-shaped joints of walls, the products are additionally sewn together with structural self-tapping screws with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 230 mm every 50-60 cm in height. The installation of the walls is completed at one of the corners, in the reverse order to the installation operation of the first corner - a vertical beam is inserted into the side edge of the last SIP panel, pre-filled with polyurethane foam, covering the end part of the wall. The SIP panel is attached to a vertical beam and strapping with self-tapping screws with a diameter of 3.5 mm and a length of 40-45 mm in increments of 15 cm on both sides. 
Next, two corner vulture panels are tightened using structural self-tapping screws with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 230 mm in increments of 50 cm in height. The last operation to install the walls is to connect them with the top trim board. To do this, the grooves at the upper ends of the installed sip panels are filled with polyurethane foam, after which the strapping is placed in them board with a cross section of 50x150 mm, which is attached with self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4.2 mm and a length of 75 mm to the vertical posts, then all wall sip panels are attached to it with screws with a diameter of 3.5 mm and a length of 40-45 mm on each side in increments of 15 cm. 
If house made of vulture panels, multi-storey, then after assembling the structures of the first floor, the installation of the interfloor ceiling is carried out. All operations are carried out similarly to the installation of a basement floor. Then the installation of the second floor is carried out in exactly the same sequence as the installation of structures first SIP floor of the house. Then everything is repeated on the next floor.
The final stage is the installation of the attic floor, after which the roof. When constructing an attic floor, vulture wall panels of complex shapes are used - trapezoidal and triangular, on which the rafter roof parts rest. The roof includes a frame consisting of racks, rafters, purlins, Mauerlat, elements of valleys and ribs at fractures, as well as special SIP roof covering panels. These products, when roof not gable, they can also have both rectangular and more complex geometric shape– trapezoidal or triangular, so first you should carefully consider the installation diagram and outline the assembly order. In the case when top floor The SIP of the house is not attic; first, a mauerlat made of timber with a cross-section of 100x150 mm is installed on top of the plane of the attic floor along the perimeter of the walls. Then racks 100x100 mm, united by a ridge beam measuring 100x150 mm and rafters measuring 40x200 mm, resting on the ridge with the upper end and the lower part on the Mauerlat. 
If the SIP roof has a complex configuration, then the frame is supplemented with intermediate purlins and details for the arrangement of valleys and ribs at the outer corners of the intersections of the roof planes. Mauerlat, ridge beams, purlins and other parts can have a trapezoidal cross-section, which is given to them during the manufacture of a house kit at the factory in order to accurately fit all roofing elements to each other. All elements of the roof frame are held together with galvanized self-tapping screws 8x280 mm, one at each fastening point. If necessary, in some places metal connecting plates with holes for screws are used. After assembling the supporting frame of the roof, roofing sip panels are installed, which are attached to the load-bearing elements in a similar way to the design of the fasteners used when assembling the floors. If necessary, the edges of some panels can be cut using power tools at certain angles on the construction site, for example, when it is necessary to form a ridge joint joining two panels. 
If you find it difficult to understand these instructions for installing a SIP at home, we recommend that you contact the SIP 47-Factory SIP specialists.
