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» DIY clinker tiles. Do-it-yourself facade tiles. Making paving slabs with your own hands at home

DIY clinker tiles. Do-it-yourself facade tiles. Making paving slabs with your own hands at home

  • Semi-dry pressing method

These technologies differ in the method of molding clay products.

In the first method, a somewhat moistened source material is pressed on special equipment, after which the molded product is placed in a firing oven without pre-drying. The product obtained in this way has a low density, which significantly reduces its strength. But, this production technology makes it possible to obtain clinker with low thermal conductivity, which in many cases is valued more than resistance to mechanical stress.

It is this temperature that ensures the transition of the starting material to stronger physical states. It should also be said that the main component of the cost of clinker tiles is energy resources; energy consumption for such firing is 4 times higher than the requirement for conventional processing of clay products.


09/11/2013 at 17:09

  1. Materials and equipment
  2. Production technology
  3. Wall decoration

Every owner of a country property wants his house to be not only durable, warm and cozy, but also to look attractive from the outside. There are many beautiful and durable materials for finishing the external walls of a house. These are facade tiles, vinyl, plastic, metal, polymer and insulation façade panels, fiber cement and porcelain slabs various sizes, colors and textures. They can be attached to walls either with self-tapping screws or with special glue. Facade panels, although their price is low, require certain skills and the involvement of specialists for their installation. The optimal solution for finishing the walls of a house would be facade tiles. Its installation on the wall does not require the involvement of specialists or specific construction equipment.

Today, construction stores sell various types of facade tiles, which are distinguished by a wide variety of colors and unexpected design solutions. In these stores you can purchase, among other things, plastic molds for them. The Forteza panel has the most interesting execution and design. These products are clinker facade tiles made in the form of blocks. Despite the affordable prices, in order to cover the entire house with facade tiles, you will need a considerable amount of money, which not everyone has.

Modern technologies can significantly reduce the cost of cladding a private house.

It is quite possible to make tiles with your own hands at home, and you do not need special production equipment for this.

Materials and equipment

To make tiles with your own hands, you do not need industrial-sized premises. This work can be organized in a barn, garage or even outside under a canopy. Tiles can be made from various materials. So, the basis for manufacturing can be the following types of material:

  1. Concrete.
  2. Starting putty.
  3. Alabaster.
  4. Gypsum.
  5. Clay.

At home, it is preferable to produce facade tiles using vibration casting technology. Clinker tiles, despite their obvious quality and strength, require firing. This requires special equipment, which is incompatible with savings.

The solution that is poured into molds may contain various fillers that give the finished product a certain appearance and properties.

The following materials can be used as a solution filler:

  1. Sand.
  2. Small shells.
  3. Plasticizers.
  4. Dyes.
  5. Glitter.
  6. Glass chips.

Considering that there will be no load on the tiles, the main task in its production will be to get rid of air bubbles, which can cause cracking and destruction in extreme cold.

Based on this, you will need the following tools and equipment to produce facade tiles with your own hands:

  • vibrating table;
  • concrete mixer;
  • hammer drill with mixer;
  • trowel;
  • wide spatula;
  • trays for molds made of plastic;
  • old bathtub or plastic water tank with a capacity of 100 liters;
  • form;
  • drying cabinet for placing molds.

If the home owner is not in a big hurry, then to make the solution there is no need to purchase a concrete mixer, but to prepare the solution in small portions 10-12 liters in buckets using a hammer drill with an attachment. A vibrating table is quite convenient equipment for the production of facade tiles. But given its cost, you can either make an analogue yourself, or vibrate manually.

Production technology

Work on the production of facade tiles should be carried out at temperatures from +15°C to +30°C. This temperature range contributes to the highest quality hardening of the solution. To comply with safety precautions, you must wear safety glasses and gloves. The room in which production is carried out must be well ventilated. First of all, the forms are prepared. They are installed on a vibrating table or on the surface of a regular table. The inner surface is lubricated with vegetable oil or liquid soap.

Business: production of clinker bricks and tiles

This will make it easier to separate the tiles from the mold. After this, a solution is prepared for pouring into molds.

Preparation of the solution

Solution recipes may vary. In the case of preparing cement tiles, the technology is as follows: pour 1 part sand and 0.5 parts water into a concrete mixer (bucket) and mix for 1 minute. Then 2 parts of cement and 1 part of water are added. After stirring for 2-3 minutes, add 4 parts sand and 0.5 parts water. The solution is mixed. It should not be liquid, but resemble a modeling solution. When the solution has reached the desired consistency, dye is added. After 1-2 minutes of stirring, the solution is ready.

Laying out the mortar and hardening period

The next step is to lay out the solution into separate forms. This is done on a working vibrating table. The solution is gradually added with a trowel and distributed between the individual forms with a wide spatula. All this time the form is subject to vibration. You can easily see air bubbles coming to the surface. When all separate forms filled, their general leveling is carried out with a wide spatula. At the same time, the solution is removed along the sides of the mold. The mold is then placed on a pallet in a drying cabinet or on a rack. Holes for self-tapping screws can be provided in the forms.

The hardening period lasts 2 days. All this time the forms are not disturbed. Next, the mold is lowered into a bath of warm water at a temperature of +40°C to +60°C for 2-3 minutes. After removing the mold from the water, the tiles are removed from it. This is done by hand or by tapping with a rubber hammer. The tile is ready. It will be suitable for mounting on the wall in 7-10 days.

Wall decoration

Installing facade tiles on the wall is not difficult. Vertical and horizontal frame elements are attached to the wall using self-tapping screws. The tiles are secured to the frame using clamps and self-tapping screws. Mineral slabs can be laid between the frame elements. basalt wool. This will significantly insulate the house. After this, sequentially screwing the clamps to the frame with self-tapping screws, the cladding of the house is mounted from home-made facade tiles.

If one or more tiles break, such a facade will be easy to repair. To do this, you should have several dozen facade tiles in stock. They need to be stored indoors or under a canopy.

Clinker tiles owe their unique qualities to manufacturing technology, which makes it possible to obtain such material from ordinary clay. The technology for producing clinker tiles was developed several centuries ago, and today there are practically no changes in it, although the equipment used has been significantly improved.

What are clinker tiles made from?

In the manufacture of clinker tiles, natural materials such as clay are used; natural dyes can be used to diversify the color range. It is possible to obtain a high-quality product only if you use clay that has a minimum amount of impurities and is refractory. Deposits of such material are available in a few countries, which is why we can single out a number of states in whose territory enterprises operate for the production of high-quality clinker. These include Germany, the Netherlands, Poland, Spain and a number of other European countries.

Basic clinker production technologies

IN industrial production Two technologies for manufacturing clinker tiles are used:

  • Semi-dry pressing method
  • Extrusion technology for the production of clinker tiles

These technologies differ in the method of molding clay products. In the first method, a somewhat moistened source material is pressed on special equipment, after which the molded product is placed in a firing oven without pre-drying. The product obtained in this way has a low density, which significantly reduces its strength. But, this production technology makes it possible to obtain clinker with low thermal conductivity, which in many cases is valued more than resistance to mechanical stress.

Extrusion technology involves the use of a special device - an extruder. Essentially, this is a large auger grinder through which wet, plastic clay is passed. After grinding the material, molding is performed using a special, most often vacuum press. The resulting workpiece is pre-dried and only after that is sent to the kiln for firing. It is in this way that most clinker materials are produced; they are distinguished by their high density, which provides high strength, resistance to abrasion and other types of mechanical and chemical influences.

The main feature of production, which is what distinguishes clinker tiles, is the firing technology at high temperatures. Ordinary clay products are exposed to temperatures of about 800-900 degrees. In clinker production, kilns are used whose operating temperature is 1100-1450 degrees.

It is this temperature that ensures the transition of the starting material to stronger physical states.

Production and manufacturers of clinker tiles as a universal facing material

It should also be said that the main component of the cost of clinker tiles is energy resources; energy consumption for such firing is 4 times higher than the requirement for conventional processing of clay products.

Equipment for clinker production

The production of high-quality clinker tiles is impossible without the use of special equipment. To provide quality production line should include:

  • Extruder (with appropriate technology).
  • Equipment for molding and pressing. Apply various designs pressing equipment, most often these are vacuum, belt, lever and rotary models.
  • Pre-drying chambers are now mostly electric; they vary in power and volume of loaded material.
  • The main equipment for the production of clinker tiles is, of course, a kiln. Serious enterprises use so-called tunnel kilns; the time when clinker was produced in small kilns using coal has already passed. Although such devices can be found in small private factories for the production of clinker products, this is mostly an exception.


A tunnel oven is a structure 150 or more meters long. It is equipped with a heating source, which is an open fire. Blanks of clinker elements are placed in special trolleys, which move at low speed through the kiln. Thanks to this, gradual heating, firing and cooling of the clay occurs. Furnaces of this type operate in continuous mode, maintaining constant temperature necessary for high-quality firing of products.

The production of clinker tiles requires significant energy costs; in addition, the delivery of material for production is also expensive due to the geography of high-quality clay deposits. All this has a significant impact on the pricing of the final product. But the increased price of clinker is more than offset by its performance qualities, which makes its use quite popular in various areas of the construction industry.

09/11/2013 at 17:09

Making facade tiles with your own hands

Making facade tiles with your own hands is one of the options that is used to save money. For this production you need:

  • Buy and prepare molds for tiles;
  • Purchase and assemble a vibrating table;
  • Mix the mixture for making;
  • Form a shape on the vibrating table;
  • Keep the products directly in the molds for several days;
  • Make formwork of finished tiles;
  • Use the finished tiles for their intended purpose.

Do not forget that before filling the molds with the mixture, they should be treated with an antiseptic or anti-stick compound.

In such conditions you can reduce your cost facing material, however, the façade tiles themselves will most likely be far from ideal.

Stages of manufacturing facade tiles

Quarry jobs

Work on the extraction of material, its transportation and storage.

The process of making clinker tiles

To increase elasticity and improve molding properties, the material is soaked and frozen in open air for about a year.

Treatment

In order for the mechanical processing of the material to be successful and of high quality, clay processing machines are used. They are needed for processing and separating excess inclusions.

Molding

The following methods are used for molding: casting, semi-dry pressing, plastic molding.

Drying

Drying is carried out so that the molded facing tiles do not crack during firing and shrink evenly.

Burning

The final stage is the firing process, during which the structure of the facade tiles and its technical properties are formed.

The video below shows how facade tiles are made with your own hands.

What are facade tiles made of?

To create facing tiles, both clay and concrete mixtures are used. For concrete mixtures, the vibration casting method is relevant. This method allows you to obtain concrete tiles with a low level of porosity. This technology makes it possible to use crushed stone, sand, plasticizers, cement, pigment and standard equipment as raw materials. homemade: concrete mixer and vibrating platform.

Plastic molds are suitable for making artificial stone from gypsum and concrete. However, you should remember that you cannot make molds from plastic that will absolutely replicate natural stone, since subsequently you will not be able to remove plaster or concrete stone from the plastic mold.

Forms for facade (cladding) tiles.

Concrete tiles: a short excursion

Molds for the production of concrete tiles

We offer plastic molds for facade tiles at manufacturer's price. When making molds for facing tiles, we use 2 mm thick ABS plastic. Products made in ABS forms acquire an aesthetic appearance, strength and wear resistance, which is especially important for exterior finishing.

Our catalog presents the most popular forms for tiles: facade stone ( fake diamond) of various types, brick tiles, wood, sandstone and other materials. We can also make products according to your requirements custom design, any complexity and geometry, in any volume.

Our molds for tile production can withstand up to 200 concrete pours, while the manufactured products have an impeccable appearance and do not require additional external processing. Durable, wear-resistant, but light and convenient forms of facade tiles allow you to speed up the production process, and the resulting high-quality product is easier to sell and costs 40-60% more.

If you want to buy forms of facade tiles, but did not find the required models in the catalog - contact us. We will advise you on our products and produce the products you need.

  • Tile mold No. 1
  • "Puzzle brick"
  • 640x445x20 mm
  • 4.32 pcs/m2
  • ABS 2.2 mm - 520 RUR/piece
  • Tile mold No. 2
  • Facade "Sandstone"
  • 510x480x18 mm
  • 4.1 pcs./m2
  • ABS 2.2 mm -450 RUR/piece
  • Tile mold No. 3
  • "The brick is smooth"
  • 500x500x18 mm
  • 4 pcs/m2
  • ABS 2.2 mm - 450 RUR/piece
  • Tile mold No. 4
  • "Large brick"
  • 500x500x18 mm
  • 4 pcs/m2
  • ABS 2.2 mm - 450 RUR/piece
  • Tile mold No. 5
  • Facade "Old masonry"
  • 500x500x18 mm
  • 4 pcs/m2
  • ABS 2.2 mm - 450 RUR/piece
  • Tile mold No. 6
  • Facade "Booth"
  • 500x500x18 mm
  • 4 pcs/m2
  • ABS 2.2 mm - 450 RUR/piece
  • Tile mold No. 7
  • Facade "Chopped stone"
  • 500x500x18 mm
  • 4 pcs/m2
  • ABS 2.2 mm - 450 RUR/piece
  • Tile mold No. 8
  • “Cracked brick” facade
  • 500x500x18 mm
  • 4 pcs/m2
  • ABS 2.2 mm - 450 RUR/piece
  • Tile mold No. 9
  • "Antique brick 1"
  • 500x500x18 mm
  • 4 pcs/m2
  • ABS 2.2 mm - 450 RUR/piece
  • Tile mold No. 10
  • "Antique Brick 2"
  • 500x500x20 mm
  • 4 pcs/m2
  • ABS 2.2 mm - 450 RUR/piece
  • Tile mold No. 11
  • Facade “Smooth stone”
  • 500x250x16 mm
  • 8 pcs/m2
  • ABS 2.2 mm - 210 RUR/piece
  • Tile mold No. 12
  • "Torn Stone"
  • 500x250x16 mm
  • 8 pcs/m2
  • ABS 2.2 mm - 240 RUR/piece
  • Tile mold No. 13
  • Manhattan facade
  • 500x500x20 mm
  • 4 pcs/m2
  • ABS 2.2 mm -450 RUR/piece
  • Tile mold No. 14
  • "Stone siding"
  • 600x200x20/10 mm
  • 8.3 pcs/m2
  • ABS 2.2 mm - 400 rub/piece
  • Tile mold No. 15
  • "The brick is smooth"
  • 1000x500x18 mm
  • 2 pcs/m2
  • ABS 2 mm - 650 rub/piece
  • Tile mold No. 16
  • "Brick Bassoon"
  • 1000x500x20 mm
  • ABS 2 mm -650 RUR/piece
  • Tile mold No. 17
  • "Smooth puzzle brick"
  • 640x445x20 mm
  • 4.32 pcs/m2
  • ABS 2.2 mm - 520 RUR/piece
  • Tile mold No. 18
  • "Three boards"
  • 900x445x20 mm
  • 2.2 pcs/m2
  • ABS 2.2 mm - 600 RUR/piece
  • Tile mold No. 19
  • "Brick puzzle block"
  • 1125x500x40 mm
  • 1.77 pcs/m2
  • ABS 2.2 mm - 820 RUR/piece
  • Tile mold No. 20
  • Molding for openings
  • 500x90x50 mm
  • ABS 2.2 mm - 500 RUR/set
  • Tile mold No. 21
  • Wave
  • 1000x500x20 mm
  • 2 pcs/m2
  • ABS 2.2 mm - 650 RUR/piece
  • Tile mold No. 22
  • Clinker brick
  • 1000x500x20 mm
  • 2 pcs/m2
  • ABS 2.2 mm - 650 RUR/piece
  • Tile mold No. 23
  • Sandstone
  • 1000x500x20 mm
  • 2 pcs/m2
  • ABS 2.2 mm - 650 RUR/piece
  • Tile mold No. 24
  • Smooth
  • 120x60x2 /4.5 cm
  • 1.39 pcs/m2
  • ABS 2.2 mm - 850 RUR/piece
  • Tile mold No. 25
  • Smooth
  • 60x30x2 cm
  • 2.78 pcs/m2
  • ABS 2.2 mm - 450 RUR/piece
  • Pano form No. 31
  • 1020x340x25 mm
  • ABS plastic 2mm
  • Price: 680 rub/piece
  • Pano form No. 32
  • 1020x340x25 mm
  • ABS plastic 2mm
  • Price: 680 rub/piece

Technological features

When choosing ABS forms for facade tiles, pay attention to how ready-made ones will be joined cladding panels. There are forms with a groove lock, which creates less problems when sealing seams, but adds difficulties when removing formwork and transporting tiles (more waste). ABS forms rectangular shape easier to manufacture and practically not damaged during transportation, but they require effort and time when sealing seams, since the joints have to be puttied to give the building’s facade an aesthetic appearance.

Ready-made facade panels are attached to the wall with glue and special anchors, for which some of our forms have markings for holes.

Do-it-yourself paving slab production at home

The production of paving slabs using vibration casting technology is an interesting home business with small investments. This business idea has 2 main advantages: 1 good profitability, 2 the production process itself is exciting (you want to work more and more).

You don't need self-motivation to exceed production plans. If you adhere to all the rules of technology, then the entire production process resembles a game. The tiles are made so simply, quickly and beautifully that it is impossible to tear yourself away. The more you "play", the more you earn. This is probably an ideal business with elements of gamification.

It does not require large expenses and its profitability is above 100%.

Paving slabs are a building material that has stable demand and the longest active sales season. After all, tiles are laid even at temperatures below zero. Moreover, this business has no production waste. Defective products can be recycled. This is a very important advantage.

Organization of home tile production

This business idea is optimized for home business and is not difficult to implement if minimum investment. Stages of organizing a manufacturing business at home:

  1. We make a vibration table with our own hands (the diagram is shown below).
  2. We also make polyurethane molds ourselves ( detailed description in a business idea).
  3. Concrete mixer for 130 l. It’s better to buy (this is the most expensive equipment in this business).
  • cement grade A-Sh-400 (more is possible High Quality, don’t skimp on cement!);
  • dropout;
  • pigment dye;
  • plasticizer C-3 liquid (an analogue or substitute is possible, most importantly it is of high quality);
  • water.

Additional tools:

  • bucket 10 l.;
  • collection shovel;
  • trowel;
  • latex gloves.

To make the entire production process feel like a game, we need to prepare everything correctly without any compromises. Let's consider basic stages production:

  1. Preparation of semi-dry colored concrete for vibratory casting.
  2. Vibratory casting of paving slabs and curbs in molds.
  3. Daily exposure and stripping.

Mix for making paving slabs

Before starting work, you should moisten the walls of the concrete mixer with two buckets of water. After wetting the walls with plain water for 2 minutes, pour out all the water from the concrete mixer. This technique will allow us to mix the semi-dry concrete mixture more efficiently. In addition, the concrete will not stick strongly to the walls of the mixer and it will be easy to clean after use.

Production stages in detail. Proportions of mixture components for the manufacture of colored paving slabs and borders.

Colored semi-dry concrete for vibratory casting. Recipe for preparing a composition of colored semi-dry concrete:

  • buckets of cement A-Sh-400;
  • buckets of water;
  • dropout buckets;
  • 200g. pigment dye;
  • plasticizer in accordance with the instructions for use indicated on the canister (different manufacturers of plasticizers dilute with different concentrations).

First we prepare the pigment dye. It must be at least 2% of the volume in the mixture for the color to be truly high-quality. Dilute it in a separate container with water 1:10 (200 ml of dye 2 liters of water). Mix thoroughly using a mixer. If the dye powder is poorly diluted with water, it will not only give a poor color, but will also form lumps of shells in the structure of cast concrete products. They will have to be discarded and sent for recycling.

When preparing semi-dry colored concrete, it is very important to strictly adhere to the ratio of all components and mix them thoroughly in a concrete mixer. If there is 30% more water than the norm, then the strength of the finished product will drop by 2 TIMES!

Too much dye has a negative impact on strength. In general, the presence of dye negatively affects strength, therefore colored tiles should be done in 2 layers (the top layer with dye, and the bottom without).

This technique will not only increase the strength of thin concrete products, but will also reduce dye costs by 2 TIMES! This is a significant saving because this component is the most expensive in this mixture. Such savings significantly affect the cost of paving slabs. Moreover, the color quality remains at the same level.

Add plasticizer for paving slabs C-3. Thanks to the plasticizer, concrete plasticity properties, which are needed to create complex shapes, are improved at the micro level. The quality of the plasticizer can be easily checked by making a separate test composition and increasing its dose 10 times. Then plasticine is obtained from concrete. This clearly shows what is happening at the micro level. But the plasticizer brings several other benefits. Firstly, tiles made with a plasticizer will dry faster and are ready for stripping within a day (without a plasticizer after 5 days). The plasticizer also gives strength to concrete products. It is important that it is of high quality.

Pour 2 buckets of water (20 liters) into a concrete mixer. We start the concrete mixer and add 3 of the same buckets of cement. Stir until a homogeneous suspension is formed. Then add the pre-prepared dye. Next we add screenings - 4 buckets. Follow all these tips in order of actions. After all, semi-dry concrete mixture is very difficult to mix well. Semi-dry concrete for vibratory casting - ready!

Technology for the production of thin-walled concrete products

Vibratory casting technology for paving slabs:

  1. We lay out the polyurethane molds on the vibrating table. Polyurethane is neutral to concrete, which cannot be said when speaking about plastic. Polyurethane molds do not need to be washed (which will save the production cycle time by 2 TIMES!). It is more durable, and concrete products made in it acquire a glossy effect (with a very smooth surface). Polyurethane products You can pour it yourself at home.
  2. Semi-dry concrete is poured using a construction trowel. When all the forming containers are filled, the vibrating table is turned on. Under the influence of vibration, liquid is pushed out of semi-dry concrete and the concrete already takes on an elastic form (in appearance it somewhat resembles a vein). When you look at this process, it seems as if a stone is turning into water. The vibration should continue until a milky foam begins to form in the center of each mold. This takes about 3-4 minutes. Then turn off the vibration and, to make sure that everything is done correctly, turn one of the forms over. The contents must not fall out. This is how low-liquid concrete is compacted. Accordingly, the strength of such a concrete product is very high.
  3. Paving slabs should be placed for curing and drying in a room protected from moisture and sun. In a day it is ready for stripping.

After stripping, we wipe the container and repeat this creative process in a repeat cycle.

DIY vibration table

We manufacture a working vibrating table for the production of paving slabs and other thin-walled concrete products using vibratory casting technology. For this we need:

  1. Sheet of metal with a thickness of 5mm and dimensions of 1.5m. x 1m. for making tabletops.
  2. Squares with a thickness of 3mm, side dimensions 5cm x 5cm.
  3. Springs – 4 pcs. with an outer diameter of 5cm and an inner diameter of 4.5cm. The coil pitch is approximately the same as that of motorcycle shock absorber springs. But the height of the springs is no more than 8 cm.
  4. Pipe sections – 4 pcs. to create bowls for springs. Their dimensions: internal diameter - 5.2 cm, height - 3-4 cm.
  5. Electric sandpaper with a power of 1 kW. with two white emery stones (stone diameter 10-15 cm, thickness 2-3 cm) on the through shaft and with protective covers.
  6. A galvanized sheet (10cm x 50cm) and two large bolts with countersunk heads (diameter 10mm, length 10cm with fine thread step 1), to secure the emery to the table.
  7. Two counterweights (diameter 12 cm, thickness 2 cm). They should be secured to the through shaft of the sandpaper and covered with protective covers.
  8. Toggle switch, cable and plug.

We assemble all the parts into a whole device, as shown in the schematic diagram. 2 holes are drilled in the center of the tabletop for mounting an electric motor with counterweights on the bottom side. From the bottom using welding machine cups are welded at the four corners opposite the table legs. The lower part of the table is made from squares - the legs, which are connected to each other for strength. Springs are attached to the legs, onto which cups with a tabletop are placed.

Making and laying facade tiles with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

An electric sander with a power of 1 kW is screwed onto the underside of the table using a galvanized sheet (which acts as a clamp). It also creates vibration due to the rotation of the weight with an offset center. The farther from the center, the stronger the vibration.

A homemade vibrating table will cost several times less than a factory one. But its capabilities are quite sufficient for home production.

When loading the table with forms of concrete, it is important not to overload it and take into account that the less weight is on the table, the higher the vibration. The level of vibration must be such that the concrete in the forms does not bounce off their walls.

Attention! The vibration weight must be securely fixed to the emery shaft. Safety comes first!

Too much or too little vibration negatively affects the quality of products. In the center homemade table there will be particularly low vibration. While in places where springs are installed, vibration may be increased due to accumulation. That's why homemade vibration table should not be loaded onto 100% of the surface. When laying out the forms, do not place them in the center or in the corners. Thus, the table will be loaded at approximately 70%, and the vibration in the molds will be uniform.

Most importantly, do not forget to follow safety precautions!

DIY molds for paving slabs

Polyurethane molds have a number of advantages over plastic.

Polyurethane is absolutely neutral to concrete. This eliminates the need for plastic mold release agents. But the main advantage of polyurethane molds is the elimination of a labor-intensive process such as washing each vessel.

Regular plastic containers need to be washed every time before vibration casting. This takes up the largest part of the work time. In home production, washing plastic molds will reduce productivity by 2 TIMES! Polyurethane molds only need to be wiped with a slightly damp cloth.

To pour polyurethane molds yourself you need to:

  • a collapsible box that will act as formwork;
  • finished concrete product (tiles, border, sill, etc.);
  • release agent that is neutral to polyurethane;
  • components A and B for preparing the polyurethane itself.

Step-by-step description of cold casting of polyurethane molds at home:

  1. Preparing a product that will act as a sample model for the mold. The sample model and formwork should be thoroughly wiped and dried. Then apply a release agent evenly with a brush to the surface of the model and the formwork. The layer of release agent should be so thin that it is possible to transfer the structure of the decorative pattern to the form (for complex patterns, the separator can be heated with a hairdryer after application to increase the efficiency of transferring the relief). Then let the grease dry for about 10 minutes.
  2. Preparation of liquid polyurethane before casting the mold. Using an electronic laboratory scale, we weigh the components (polyol part A) and (isocyanate part B) for mixing in a 1:1 ratio. The temperature of the components should be room temperature plus 21-24 degrees. When mixing, it is better to use containers with the same volume of ingredients. For 2 to 4 minutes, mix with a mixer at medium speed, rotating counterclockwise to prevent the formation of air bubbles.
  3. Filling the formwork with liquid polyurethane. After mixing, we have no more than 10 minutes to fill the formwork efficiently while the “lifetime” of the compound continues (the process of transition from a liquid to a gel state). Advice: it is better to fill it from one corner so that the polyurethane evenly covers the surface of the sample model like a flow of volcanic lava before filling it to the required level in the formwork.
  4. Stripping. After casting, the product should not be disturbed for 24 hours. And after 24 hours, stripping must be done very carefully so as not to damage the still fresh form. The resulting mold can be used no earlier than after 4 days, so that the mold gains its maximum strength and lasts several hundred shaping cycles.

Advantages of figured paving elements

Paving slabs are the most rational covering for areas for a number of main reasons:

  1. Mobility. The tiles can be removed and moved to another location. Can be replaced in parts if damaged during use. For example, the appearance greasy stains from automobile oil, etc.
  2. Health safety. The tiles do not emit a toxic odor in the heat like asphalt.
  3. Strength. The tiles are not pierced by plants, as in asphalt. It does not crack under the influence of temperature changes like poured concrete.
  4. Aesthetics and beauty. Thanks to creative ideas, a whole technology in landscape design FEM (curly paving elements) has been created. From different colors and shapes of thin-walled concrete products, you can make entire masterpieces.
  5. Affordable price per square meter.

There are many other minor advantages in FEM coating (water absorption between joints, high-quality load distribution on the surface, etc.). The list goes on. But this is enough to evaluate the benefits of this building material and its demand for construction market in the long term.

Let's consider two options for tile production. The first is made of concrete, which is much more accessible to most people. You will need white Portland cement, sand and small crushed stone, as well as lime or another plasticizer. Be sure to use modifiers to increase frost resistance and water repellency.

The principle of making concrete tiles by vibration casting is as follows: the mass is poured into a mold, then the blanks are placed on the vibrating table platform and the equipment is turned on. After removing air and compacting, the molds are dried.

To color concrete tiles, pigment is poured into the liquid mass at the mixing stage. A more economical option is to apply paint to the inside of the mold.

Use of polyurethane matrices

Clinker tiles are made slightly differently. The clay mass is mixed with modifiers, then it is poured into a vibropressing machine, which forms blanks by compressing the mass under pressure and vibrating it. After this, the clay is allowed to dry and sent to the kiln to fire. For clinker and porcelain stoneware, the temperature is raised to 1300 degrees, for terracotta – to 1000.

Types of stone-look facade tiles

At one time in Western Europe there was a search for a material that was not inferior in its properties to stone, thus, by firing and pressing clay with brick, this product was obtained. The meaning of the word tile has its roots in the German language, and is literally translated as “brick”. Factory-made clinker tiles have a durable composition due to heat treatment and are only a type of ceramics, having their own advantages over it.

It is quite easy to make yourself, its technology is simple, and as a budget option it works well.

Initially, you need to prepare a model of the product itself from plasticine, coated with sealant and wait for it to dry. Afterwards, a solution of gypsum, sand and cement is prepared, color is added, the ingredients are mixed and poured into molds. 15 minutes is enough for the product to be ready, and in order to prevent it from crumbling and smearing, it should be treated with a primer. It is worth keeping in mind that a handmade product will have different characteristics from its factory counterpart. The versatility of the material is surprising; its choice is limited only by the preferences and capabilities of homeowners.

You can make facade tiles to look like stone yourself

There are several types:

  • Under natural stone;
  • Clinker tiles;
  • Under ordinary brick.

Houses made from natural stone, all the advantages are with of this material, this is durability, strength, and presentable appearance. But, there is one big disadvantage - the cost.

Facade tiles

Facade tiles are mainly used if it is not possible to carry out facing work using bricks. Tiles do not have a load-bearing function, and when a wall is erected, such material is not involved in installation. The cladding is carried out after the wall has been erected..

The thickness of façade tiles is generally 14mm. Considering this thickness parameter, the method of covering a wall with this material can be called gluing. For reliable fastening to the wall surface, a special adhesive composition. Using tiles, you can cladding not only the exterior of the building, but also the interior.

Among the variety of tiles, the following can be distinguished::

  1. Clinker room. Has a high level of density, has a wide variety geometric shapes in which it is produced.
  2. Porcelain stoneware. Became quite popular for last years. The shape in which it can often be seen is a square or rectangle. Has enough large sizes, thanks to this, it is not only profitable to use, but also convenient, since installation with help is simple and does not take much time.
  3. Polymer sand. The main purpose of this type of material is decoration. Thanks to this type of tile material, a wide variety of design ideas can be realized.

There are also less popular types, such as:

  • ceramic;
  • basement;
  • under a stone;
  • under brick;
  • basement

Necessary equipment

The equipment for making facade tiles with your own hands depends on the raw materials used. The easiest way is to use concrete. To make tiles you need a good mold and a vibrating table.

The form can be made of plywood, plastic, wood or polyurethane. The best material is polyurethane. Using it you can convey the texture of the future tile in the smallest detail. Due to this, you can ideally create an imitation of natural stone and other building materials.

A large number of home craftsmen make a vibrating table on their own. This requires a metal frame, a sheet of metal or other material for the tabletop, a motor from washing machine and springs.

Vibropressing technology is also used in the production of facade tiles. Thanks to its use, the density of raw materials is reduced without a large amount of water.

In some cases, a kiln is used to ensure that terracotta, clinker or porcelain tiles are fully prepared. In these furnaces, the workpiece is fired at a temperature of 1 thousand to 3 thousand degrees.

note
The main advantage of making tiles yourself is the ability to give it the desired shape and texture. You can experiment to make exclusive products, for example, make a non-standard shape or use a different composition of raw materials.

Purpose, range of forms for artificial stone

We offer a wide range of matrices for the production of facing and facade tiles of various shapes, textures, and sizes. In the catalog of the Formpark online store you will find products made from polyurethane, regular and ABC plastic. Each material has its own advantages. A common feature of the matrices is their reusable use, long service life and the possibility of obtaining an attractive product in the final result.

Polyurethane molds for facing stones and tiles for house facades are durable and economical in the production process, since there is no need to buy special equipment for their use. optional equipment And.

ABS matrices and PVC plastic from Standardpark and European manufacturers Taboss, Alpha are impact resistant and big amount possible fills.

Save with us

Finished products that are produced using these matrices ideally imitate rock or another type of building material (cobblestones, bricks, gas blocks, wood, etc.). This type of cladding is very popular because it makes the façade of the building richer and more sophisticated. Instead of building a facade from natural stone, they simply use a concrete textured analogue. Injection plastic dies for making stone exactly repeat the lines and irregularities of natural material, sometimes so believably that you can’t even tell the difference. This is profitable and allows you to save money.

If at the time of manufacture you add the necessary iron oxide pigment to the solution, you can get a tile of the required color, or simply paint it in the desired color after its installation. Artificial stone is lighter in weight than real stone, so it is easier to transport it to its destination, and it is even better to organize production nearby and avoid transportation altogether.

The assortment is very large - at least 65 varieties of matrices. The price is favorable! You can ask our manager or receive an answer by email. Therefore, buy molds for facade tiles from the manufacturer in the Formpark online store. Make, use, sell, grow your business!

Materials and equipment

To make tiles with your own hands, you do not need industrial-sized premises. This work can be organized in a barn, garage or even outside under a canopy. Tiles can be made from various materials. So, the basis for manufacturing can be the following types of material:

  1. Concrete.
  2. Starting putty.
  3. Alabaster.
  4. Gypsum.
  5. Clay.

At home, it is preferable to produce facade tiles using vibration casting technology. Clinker tiles, despite their obvious quality and strength, require firing. This requires special equipment, which is incompatible with savings.

The solution that is poured into molds may contain various fillers that give the finished product a certain appearance and properties.

The following materials can be used as a solution filler:

  1. Sand.
  2. Small shells.
  3. Plasticizers.
  4. Dyes.
  5. Glitter.
  6. Glass chips.

Considering that there will be no load on the tiles, the main task in its production will be to get rid of air bubbles, which can cause cracking and destruction in extreme cold.

Based on this, you will need the following tools and equipment to produce facade tiles with your own hands:

  • vibrating table;
  • concrete mixer;
  • hammer drill with mixer;
  • trowel;
  • wide spatula;
  • trays for molds made of plastic;
  • old bathtub or plastic water tank with a capacity of 100 liters;
  • form;
  • drying cabinet for placing molds.

If the home owner is not in a big hurry, then to make the solution there is no need to purchase a concrete mixer, but prepare the solution in small portions of 10-12 liters in buckets using a hammer drill with an attachment. A vibrating table is quite convenient equipment for the production of facade tiles. But given its cost, you can either make an analogue yourself, or vibrate manually.

Plastic cladding

Plastic cladding has recently become increasingly widespread.

PVC trim

Flexible PVC trim is very easy to install.

PVC tiles are made from amorphous polyvinyl chloride. Talc, wood flour, filler and plasticizer are added to it.

Element sizes:

  • 15x15;
  • 20x20;
  • 30x30 cm.

Slab thickness- 1–2 mm. They can have different colors and designs.

Polyvinyl chloride is resistant to aggressive chemical environments and is moisture resistant, so cladding made from it can be used in damp rooms.

A shower cabin lined with such material will last a very long time.

Polystyrene boards

Polystyrene cladding can only be installed inside the house.

Polystyrene tiles began to be produced recently. It is used for finishing interior walls and partitions. The façade cannot be covered with it.

Element sizes:

  • 10x10;
  • 10×15;
  • 10×30 cm.

Their thickness- 1.35 mm.

This lining is glued to polymer mastic. For better adhesion, sills are made on its back side along the edges, and square convexities are made along the entire surface.

The colors, patterns and textures of polystyrene cladding are very diverse.

Advantages of polystyrene finishing:

  1. High strength.
  2. Light weight.
  3. Variety of colors and textures. This type of wild stone coating is very popular. “Coconut” tiles are also common.

Flaws:

  1. The coating cannot withstand high temperatures.
  2. It has a short service life.
  3. Polystyrene has low fire resistance.
  4. He is afraid of organic solvents.

Quartz vinyl

Quartz-vinyl coating has increased strength.

The composition of this finish includes 60–80% quartz, 10–15% vinyl, as well as pigments, a plasticizer and a stabilizer. The material is used for cladding indoor floors.

Advantages of coverage:

  1. High strength.
  2. Low thermal conductivity.
  3. Moisture resistance.

Manufacturing process

The entire process that needs to be completed in order to create facade tiles with your own hands can be divided into several stages.

Such as:

  • creating forms;
  • preparing the solution;
  • final stage;
  • Direct receipt of the finished product.

Making molds from polyurethane

Initially, you need to decide on the appearance of the tiles that need to be made. In addition, you need to determine all the parameters of its dimensions.

It is very important to correctly make its front surface. For simplicity, you can use ready-made products made of natural stone, which you need to imitate

In order to make the mold, you need to use a two-component polyurethane casting compound. Such solutions have the necessary level of performance characteristics that remain with the finished product.

The whole process can be represented as follows:

  1. For the base, you can use a piece of plexiglass, the size of which is slightly larger than the area of ​​the stone. It should be placed face up.
  2. After this, it is necessary to measure the level at which the sample stone exceeds and draw a contour for the construction of future formwork. The height of the formwork should exceed the sample by 2 cm.
  3. The stone, having been removed from the base, using silicone sealant, attached to the plexiglass, adhering to the applied contour on the formwork.
  4. After the solution has been poured into the formwork for the form, you need to wait some time for it to harden. Often it takes 24 hours for this process.

How to buy molds for facade tiles

In order to place an order, you need to fill out a form, you can download it from the link. You can also call the phone number listed on the website or write by email. We will answer all your questions.

Mold for warm tiles “Smooth brick”ABS price: 1600 RUR

Mold for warm tiles “Lugansk stone” ABS price: 1600 RUR

Mold for warm tiles “Athensian masonry”ABS price: 1600 RUR

Plastic molds “Shell rock” ABS price: 1300 RUR

Plastic molds “Rocky Mountain” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Leningrad Stone” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Arbat” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Bridge stone” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Big sandstone” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Nubby”Price ABS: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “English large”ABS price: 1300 RUR

Plastic molds “Limestone”ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Panel chipped”ABS price: 1400 RUR

Plastic molds “Rust”ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Smooth brick”ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Georgian brick” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Belgian brick” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “English brick”ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Limestone panel” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Rostov stone” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Dolomite” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “France” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Pebbles”ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “River Pebbles”ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Skol”ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Chopped edge”ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Balkan” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Ancient mosaic” ABS price: 1400 RUR

Plastic forms “Window Framing”ABS price: 1300 RUR

Plastic molds “Slate”ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Old Castle”ABS price: 1400 RUR

Plastic molds “Surgut Besser” Price ABS: 1300 RUR

Plastic molds “Surgut Besser – corner element” ABS price: 1300 RUR

Plastic molds » “Old Fortress” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Ungel stone” ABS price: 1300 RUR

Plastic molds “Plinth slab” Price ABS: 1300 RUR

Plastic molds “Old Castle” (panel)ABS price: 1300 RUR

Plastic molds “Fork” (smooth brick)ABS price: 1400 RUR

Plastic molds “Fork” (Belgian brick) ABS price: 1400 RUR

Plastic forms Panel “Cracked brick”ABS price: 1400 RUR

Plastic molds Fork “Rostov”ABS price: 1400 RUR

Plastic molds Fork “Rostov” (smooth)ABS price: 1400 RUR

Plastic forms Panel “Smooth”ABS price: 1400 RUR

Plastic molds Panel “Litestone”ABS price: 1400 RUR

Plastic forms Panel “Nevsky Stone”ABS price: 1400 RUR

ABS price: 1400 RUR

Types of tiles for interior work

Of course, you can also use natural facing brick, but even if such a load on the floors is permissible, then in order to make ideal masonry for jointing, at least a little experience of a mason is necessary, since the rows must be even.

Interior finishing of brick walls can be done with clinker tiles, but due to its high cost and resistance to temperature changes, it is more advisable to use it for finishing facades. Clinker tiles are also used for cladding stoves and fireplaces.

Most often, artificial rigid or flexible brick tiles are used for interior decoration imitating natural material. It is cheaper, and installation can be carried out by anyone with even very little experience in performing this type of work. For the manufacture of such facing material, various building materials can be used.

Stone-effect tiles imitate natural materials well, and there are no problems with their installation, since they are of the correct shape, and with the help of flexible tiles, various surfaces can be finished, including columns, external and internal corners Therefore, it will not be difficult to imitate brick walls with your own hands.

Review of manufacturers

For choice indeed quality tiles You should give preference only to the most popular and well-established manufacturers. These include:

  • Stroeher, a German manufacturer of tile materials, adds mineral granules and modifying components to its raw materials, which improve the frost resistance of the coating. Facade tiles Stroeher has a 25-year lifetime warranty;
  • King Klinker is one of the best Polish companies for the production of cladding coatings and produces high-quality tiles with very low water absorption. Before molding, polymer compounds are added to the solution to form a protective film on the surface of the tile;
  • Litos - facade tiles are made by hyper-pressing from a cement composition with the addition of kaolin substances. Thanks to this, the coating has high technical indicators, such as strength and frost resistance.

Making façade tiles is a relatively simple process that requires the craftsman to accurately carry out the work at all stages. At the same time, the quality of the future coating is largely determined by the composition of the raw materials and the uniformity of the prepared solution.

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Manufacturing of molded products for decorative stone

Molds for artificial stone, just like for tiles, can be made with your own hands or purchased ready-made, complete with materials for making products.

The most convenient to use are considered to be rubber, silicone and polyurethane molds, from which the stone is easiest and fastest to remove after the mass has hardened.

Considering that the cost of ready-made forms is high, it makes sense to consider the possibility of making them at home.

Dependence of the price of silicone and polyurethane on the brand

The best option is to make a mold from polyurethane. Packing material weighing 7 kg will cost no more than three thousand rubles, while it will be possible to make several forms of the sizes you need from it. If you decide to use silicone, then it is best to select a vinegar-based material made in Europe.

To make it easier to remove finished products from the mold, it is useful to use matrix separator, which is simply made from gum turpentine, beeswax and paraffin. To prepare the mass, wax and paraffin are melted in a water bath, adding turpentine at the end. The mixture is used to lubricate the sides of the mold and the surface of the stone.

Instructions for making a mold from polyurethane or silicone are as follows:

  1. Select several stones that you think are suitable as samples.
  2. Place them face down on a sheet of chipboard or fibreboard, a few centimeters apart.
  3. Treat the smooth side of the stones with silicone and press firmly into the surface.
  4. Treat the contours of the stones with sealant to prevent air from getting under them. Silicone for aquariums is suitable for filling, which will help avoid leaks.
  5. Let the sealant dry for several hours.
  6. Prepare the formwork at a distance of a few centimeters from the stone.
  7. Seal the edges and corners of the formwork with silicone to prevent leakage of polyurethane.
  8. Allow the mixture to dry (at least 12 hours).
  9. Lubricate the formwork and samples with the wax mixture prepared earlier and let dry for two hours.
  10. Prepare the polyurethane mixture.
  11. Fill the matrix with silicone or polyurethane. Pour out the polyurethane in a thin stream, and pour the silicone with a brush dipped in soapy water.
  12. Disassemble the formwork after 24 hours and remove the stone models from the mold.
  13. Dry the finished products for two weeks.

In this way, you can prepare the required number of molds with samples of artificial stone that suit you, reducing the cost of purchasing finished products and materials for home decoration by an order of magnitude.

Stages of work on the production of facade tiles

All work on creating facade tiles can be divided into the following stages:

Production workshop for the production of facade tiles

  1. extraction, transportation and storage of material (quarry stage);
  2. material processing (mechanical stage);
  3. molding of products from processed materials;
  4. drying;
  5. burning.

Quarry mining. The technological process for the production of facing tiles begins with the quarrying of materials for its production. To increase the elasticity of components (for example, clay) and thereby improve their molding properties, they are soaked and frozen for a year.

Raw materials for the manufacture of most types of facade tiles are mined in quarries

Processing stage. To provide quality machining material for the production of facade tiles, this is done using clay processing machines. Their task is to isolate and process third-party inclusions.

Tile forming process. In the process of forming facade tiles, two methods are used:

  1. semi-dry pressing;
  2. plastic molding.

Drying process. After molding, the material must be dried. Otherwise, the lining will crack during firing and will not shrink evenly.

Tile drying machine

Firing process. At the final stage of manufacturing external facing tiles, a firing process takes place, which contributes to the formation of the structure of the material and its technical properties. In the production of facade tiles, in addition to clay, a concrete mixture is used. It is this that allows you to create the cladding yourself at home.

The vibratory casting method is used for the concrete mixture. This method guarantees production with low porosity and allows the use of sand, crushed stone, cement, various pigments and plasticizers in the manufacturing process. Standard equipment for home production is a concrete mixer and a vibrating platform.

Solution

The solutions that are used to make tiles with your own hands come in a wide variety.

IN in this case an example of the most popular mortar based on cement is given:

  • It is necessary to pour 1 part sand and 0.5 water into a container suitable for mixing the solution. The composition must be mixed for 1 minute;
  • after this, cement (2 parts) and water (1 part) must be added to the resulting mass. Mix everything thoroughly;

NOTE!
The consistency of the solution after mixing should be similar to the solution intended for modeling. The mass must not be liquid.

When the required consistency has been achieved, the coloring pigment can be added.

After stirring the composition for 2 minutes, we can assume that the solution for facade tiles is ready.

  • When the required consistency has been achieved, the coloring pigment can be added. After stirring the composition for 2 minutes, we can assume that the solution for facade tiles is ready.

Forming

The process of laying out the prepared solutions into molds must be carried out on a vibrating table, which must be turned on during the process. It is necessary to fill the molds with the composition in portions; for this you can use a trowel or a wide spatula.

The composition must be subjected to vibration during the laying process. This allows air to be removed from the mass.

After the mass has been spread out over all forms, it is necessary to further level the surface using a wide spatula. It is also necessary to remove the composition that got on the sides of the molds.

The last thing to do is at this stage- This is to put the filled containers with the composition in a drying cabinet or place them on a rack.

The duration of the period required for the tile to harden is two days. During this time, the molds with the solution should not be touched..

IMPORTANT!
After the specified period, you can begin to remove the finished tiles from the molds. To do this, they are first immersed in water whose temperature is 40-60 degrees Celsius and left for 2-3 minutes.

After the tile is removed from the water, the mold should separate well.

To make the process easier, you can use a rubber mallet and lightly tap it on the surface of the mold..

Forms for facade tiles

One of the main points in the process of creating tiles or artificial stone for facade cladding is the shape. This device is made from ABS plastic.

This material is the most widely used among others, but silicone, polyvinyl chloride or polyurethane can be used for such purposes. These materials are capable of providing a high-quality result that will have the desired degree of matte or will be glossy on the surface.

As for molds made from PVC or plastic, they are convenient to use because they do not require lubrication and steaming, since the concrete mixture that is poured into them is not capable of sticking.

A good option regarding the material from which molds can be made is polyurethane. It is characterized by good strength and durability. If the mold is made of polyurethane, then it can be used for quite a long time, using it to produce 1000 or more tiles. In addition, this shape gives the tile an ideal glossy surface:

There is a wide variety of types of shapes that are used to create facade tiles.

Among the main ones we can highlight:

  • limestone ore;
  • marble;
  • cut limestone;
  • cliff;
  • dolomite.

IMPORTANT!
By creating tiles yourself, you can make a shape that is not similar to any of the ones listed. Thus, the tiled facade of the building will be one and only of its kind.

Types of molded products

A wide selection of products for casting facade tiles and stones open up many opportunities for the implementation of unique design ideas in the direction of facade finishing. The most striking examples of products:

  • limestone ore;
  • figured slate;
  • dolomite;
  • marble ore, etc.

Please pay attention to the fact that the work of laying finished facade tiles or artificial stone requires certain calculations to ensure that the masonry is smooth and durable. . During the installation process it will be necessary to use not only a level, but also such important materials like a rod and plumb line

During the installation process, it will be necessary to use not only a level, but also such important materials as a lath and a plumb line.

Before you proceed to laying tiles or stone, you will need to prepare:

  • buy, go make molds for products with your own hands;
  • assemble or buy a ready-made vibrating table;
  • mix the composition for stone or facade tiles;
  • prepare the mold on the vibrating table;
  • let the finished product sit in the mold for 24 hours;
  • carry out formwork.

Finished products can be immediately used for finishing the facade, or can be packaged for further storage.

If you are not yet ready to make molds, then you can purchase ready-made products, the cost of which will vary depending on the material from which they are made.

Whose products to choose

Molds for the production of facade tiles are produced by a large number of companies not only in Russia, but throughout the CIS. Therefore, the choice should be made based on trust in one or another manufacturer. Products under the following brands are especially popular among companies:

  • Taboss;
  • Fistone;
  • Alpha.

And this is only a small part of foreign and domestic producers whose main activity is the production of molds from plastic and polyurethane. The Polish company Taboss is known far beyond its borders. Its products are widely represented in many countries of the world, including Russia. The main activity of the company is the production of plastic molds. They are distinguished by a wide range and high quality. The cost of such products is 127 rubles per piece and is one of the highest among analogues.

Among domestic manufacturers, the products of the Novosibirsk company Fistone are in particular demand. It produces polyurethane molds, as well as related products for making tiles at home. The products of this manufacturer are presented in various models, which allows you to select them in accordance with the overall design of the building. Prices for such forms reach 2,600 rubles per piece, which is not cheap at all.

Let's watch the video, the stages of making a mold for tiles on your own:

One more is enough renowned manufacturer Such products are produced by the company Standardpark from St. Petersburg. IN the lineup Its products include a large number of tile shapes of different sizes and styles. They are made of polypropylene and polyurethane and are of high quality. The cost of such forms depends on their size, the material used and starts from 40 rubles per piece.

Manufacturing technology

But it’s not enough to just choose the right form for the production of facade tiles. You also need to make it correctly. First of all, it should be taken into account that work related to this is carried out at temperatures from 15 to 30°C. This is necessary so that the solution hardens efficiently and there are no air bubbles in it.

We must not forget about observing safety measures when performing work. For this purpose, it is recommended to use safety glasses and gloves. If the production of tiles takes place indoors, then exhaust ventilation must be organized in it.

Molding of facade tiles

The forms are placed on a working vibrating table and filled out ready-made solution using a trowel - a narrow mason's trowel. If the solution does not include natural crumb fillers and dye, then pigment is first added to the molds with a layer of 1-1.5 cm, after which they are gradually filled flush with the edges with the main composition. This allows you to get a tile with a front surface uniformly painted to a depth of 1.5-2 cm.

Considering high cost vibrating table and the labor intensity of making it yourself, when molding tiles you can do without it. If you install a sheet of steel or chipboard (chipboard) on two supports, and place polyurethane forms on it, then the mixture can be compacted in the forms by tapping the sheet from below with a hammer.

After compacting the mold, being careful not to deform it, transfer it to a horizontal surface for two days. During this time, the products are not moved or touched.

Exposure of molds and products to direct sunlight and high temperatures is unacceptable, as this reduces the strength of the tiles and the turnover of polyurethane molds.

Features of molds for tiles and stones

Typically used for making products ABS plastic, as well as a number of other materials, among which the most popular are silicone, polyvinyl chloride and polyurethane. It is these materials that make it possible to obtain products with the required degree of matte and glossy surface. Molds made of PVC and plastic are especially convenient because they do not require lubrication and steaming, since the concrete mixture does not stick during the process of preparing products with their help.

An interesting material option for molds is polyurethane, which is especially strong and durable.. Products made from polyurethane can be used to cast more than a thousand slabs, the peculiarity of which will be an ideal glossy surface.

Do-it-yourself production of facing tiles

Facing tiles or artificial stone are essentially an element of decorative facing stone (terracotta tiles). If we talk in simple words about production at home, then a liquid solution, already colored in a color palette, is poured into molds.

The tile is taken out of the mold, the material is ready, but only after it has completely hardened.

In the process of improvement, the following types of finishing can be distinguished: interior - on a gypsum base, exterior - on a cement base. The main thing is not to forget that a large part of success is the selection of quality components, as well as reducing the use of water, this will result in a more solid product.

The production of facing tiles can be divided into three stages

All production can be divided into 3 stages:

  • Preparation of tools and raw materials;
  • Preparation of the form;
  • Making stone.

The production of facing tiles should be done in the warm season, for example, in summer, but the product should be dried away from sunlight, protected from rain and wind. Having a certain set of equipment will only be beneficial; to the basic one you can add a concrete mixer, a vibrating table, a mixer for mixing and a drying cabinet

There is nothing complicated in manufacturing using a simplified algorithm; by following certain rules and paying attention to the quality of the products used, you can make decent facing tiles with your own hands.

Laying tiles

Level the surface of the building walls in advance. In addition, it is best to carry out insulation and treatment against fungus.

The tiles are laid using a special adhesive that is resistant to weather conditions and temperature fluctuations. Use compounds that are not afraid of moisture, but this is not necessary, unlike the frost resistance criterion. Since the weight of the finish is significant, the adhesion of the solution to the surface must be appropriate.

Stages of installation of homemade facade tiles

Laying is carried out under favorable conditions weather conditions. The temperature should be between 5-25 degrees Celsius. When it's cold, the properties of the glue deteriorate, it freezes, and when it's hot, the moisture evaporates too quickly.

Apply the solution both to the wall and to the tile itself. If the layout is complex, it is better to use the second option. Remove any glue protruding from the seams after final fixation of the material. The gaps are filled with waterproof fugues, for example, cement-latex. It is best to use a syringe so as not to stain the tile itself. After drying, the facades are treated with a water-repellent liquid, for example, a water repellent. This is especially true for concrete and clinker samples. After such work, the cladding will last you much longer.

on the wall is not a big deal. Vertical and horizontal frame elements are attached to the wall using self-tapping screws. The tiles are secured to the frame using clamps and self-tapping screws. Between the frame elements you can lay slabs of mineral basalt wool. This will significantly insulate the house. After this, sequentially screwing the clamps to the frame with self-tapping screws, the cladding of the house is mounted from home-made facade tiles.

If one or more tiles break, such a facade will be easy to repair. To do this, you should have several dozen facade tiles in stock. They need to be stored indoors or under a canopy.

How to make tiles with your own hands

The process of manufacturing facade tiles consists of several stages:

  • material extraction;
  • transporting it to a storage location;
  • processing;
  • molding;
  • drying;
  • firing

It all starts with quarrying - extracting material to create products. Most often, clay is used, which is soaked and frozen at low temperatures for 10-12 months.

For high-quality processing of prepared material, they are best suited special machines, which will allow you to detect and process unwanted inclusions. At the molding stage, processing occurs in several ways: plastic molding, casting and semi-dry pressing. The finished products are dried to prevent shrinkage and cracks in the future, after which they are fired to form the finished façade tiles.

In addition to clay, concrete mixture is suitable for making tiles, from which it is easier to create products at home from do-it-yourself molds. The process most often uses the vibration casting method to ultimately obtain slabs with low porosity on the surface. By preparing a mixture of cement, sand and gravel, it can be painted with coloring pigments. As for the equipment necessary for the work, it will be enough to have a regular concrete mixer and a vibrating platform.

Please note that plastic molds are suitable for making products from plaster and concrete, but not from clay. In addition, plastic is not a suitable material option for making molds intended for decorative stone, which ideally follows the structure of natural stone.

Let us note that making facade tiles today is an activity that anyone can master. The material is easy to use and allows you to create a finish that protects the facade and gives it a special texture. Molds for casting products are distinguished by their plasticity and practicality, allowing you to make with your own hands materials of the desired color and texture that are as visually close to natural as possible.

Preparing the filling solution

After the glue has dried, begin preparing the polyurethane mass for pouring.

The required quantities of polymer and hardener are poured into two separate dry and clean containers in the required proportions. Then pour them into a third dry and clean container and mix thoroughly with your hands, touching the walls of the container.

When working with the components of the compound, you should use protective clothing, gloves and goggles, avoiding direct contact of the polymer with the body. If the solution gets on your skin, wash it off immediately running water with detergent!

Before filling the formwork with the compound, you need to dry brush the matrix with a thin layer of polyurethane to reduce the number of air bubbles that form on the surface of the sample when adding the bulk of the mixture.

One of the corners of the base is raised, and the filling of the formwork with polymer begins from the lower corner, while simultaneously introducing the composition and lowering the raised corner. When the base is in a horizontal position, the thickness of the polyurethane layer above the top point of the matrix should be 2-3 cm.

The compound, depending on the type, hardens in about a day, after which the matrix is ​​removed.

Handmade clinker tiles

Laying under brick does not differ significantly from laying conventional ceramics. Regardless of the application surface, it must be cleaned of dirt and properly primed. It is also necessary to take a responsible approach to the choice of glue, because it must absorb moisture well and be resistant to frost

It is worth paying attention to the treatment of the seams between the tiles; they must be properly sealed.

Clinker tiles have a number of advantages

If we break down all the work step by step, it looks something like this:

  • Surface preparation;
  • Marking;
  • Adhesive solution;
  • Laying tiles;
  • Seam processing.

The properties of clinker are very attractive; the tiles are resistant to cold, durable, easy to maintain, have a low level of water absorption, and are resistant to mechanical impact. This is a large number of advantages. Homemade tiles are in no way inferior in quality to the factory-made alternative. In addition, such a house will look very solid and attractive, and its facade will not lose its character over time. appearance.

Good afternoon, dear users of our site. This article will talk about concrete tiles, which you can make with your own hands and decorate your fence with it in the future. Below is a technological illustrated map with which you will learn this useful skill.

Initially, you will need to get special tools and accessories. The most important device is plastic molds(photo1). You can buy them in a specialized store. The second important point is the presence of a vibrating table (photo 2). You can either buy it or make it yourself. We won’t dwell on this now. The second thing you need is a heating bath. It is done extremely simply: take any metal trough. It fits on its bottom metal grid. Afterwards the container is filled with water. A regular boiler is placed on the grid directly into the water (it is advisable to use a more powerful one). Do not forget to make grounding from the body of the metal trough. Regarding materials, the special components required are: plasticizer, mold release agent. What it is and why it is used, you will find out a little later. As for lubricant: any lubricant with a thin oily consistency will do.

So, the process of making tiles is initial stage involves the preparation of forms. Your task is to cleanse the facial plastic surface from dust and dirt. Also, the front surface is coated with lubricant. This is necessary so that in the future the form can easily lag behind the concrete product. In addition, the presence of lubricant allows you to achieve a smooth surface on the finished product. After applying a layer of grease with a brush, it must be removed with a rag. Only a thin film of lubricant remains on the form, which is what we need.

When preparatory work With the forms completed, we proceed to the next step: lay out the forms on the vibrating table (photo 3). After this you can start kneading concrete mortar. The ingredients for the mixture are standard: water, cement and sand. However, it is important to add a plasticizer as well. This substance has an oily structure, a pungent odor and a black color. Thanks to the plasticizer, concrete gains strength faster and also becomes more plastic, which extends the life of products made from it. The mold is filled using a single-layer system. The ratio of cement and sand is 1:2 (1 cement, 2 sand). The concrete being mixed should have approximately the same consistency as in the photo below (photo 4).


In the third step, fill out the forms with the prepared solution. Then we turn on the vibrating table so that the concrete is properly compacted and fills all the grooves (photo 5). Remove excess solution in the mold with a trowel. Upon completion of this work, the forms are placed in a warm, non-humid room for drying for approximately 17-18 hours (photo 6).


The tile should be removed from the mold by first heating it in the bath. Thanks to this method of removing the product from the mold, the edges do not break off, and the speed of the process increases significantly.

You can see what the finished frozen product looks like in the photo below (photo7) (photo8) (photo9).



Once you have made a sufficient number of tiles and given them the necessary time for the concrete to gain strength, you can begin facing works fence Concrete tiles are attached to the base in the same way as any other tile: with tile adhesive. The seams between the products are filled with fugue. After attaching the tile to the fence, you can paint it. It is best to use a spray bottle for these purposes.

The finished painted tiles on the fence look like this:

After reading this article, you may get the impression that making concrete tiles yourself is an expensive, unjustified process. In fact, this is not so, since a person using this technology not only saves material resources, but also receives a product that is not only inferior in quality, but even superior to what can now be purchased in stores. Also, such tiles have an order of magnitude longer service life, especially when compared with dry pressed products.

Video:

Good luck to you in all your endeavors!

Despite the huge selection of ready-made finishing materials, various homemade products are always relevant, giving an exclusive interior or facade. Various variations of decorative tiles imitating brickwork, which decorates any room. In this article we will look at two methods for producing such an imitation - with completely different raw material bases and technologies, they are united by simplicity and accessibility.

Decorative tiles from DSP for interior and exterior decoration

This method was shared in a comment by a member of our portal with the nickname Albeduin.

Albeduin FORUMHOUSE Member

A method of making decorative stones without pouring each into molds, such tiles can be made in the simplest way. Price Supplies per 1 m² - within 15-30 rubles.

DIY decorative brick.

The price was relevant three years ago, even taking into account the rise in price, it has not fundamentally increased, especially considering that not only raw materials become more expensive over time, but also a square of finished tiles today costs a lot.

Solution

The mortar is prepared from sand, cement, water and acrylic primer (concentrate) - it is the primer that provides the mortar with uniformity and elasticity, and the finished tile with increased strength. The ratio of cement and sand is 1/3, primer is about 100 ml per bucket (half a glass, added after mixing the CSP). The solution is made quite liquid, but holds its shape and does not float thanks to the primer.

Equipment

The process of making tiles consists of several stages and does not require expensive equipment or special materials, but you will have to make a couple of special devices yourself.

Frame– base and sides made of plywood, 6-8 mm thick, ends made of wooden blocks. To ensure high adhesion of the tile to future substrates, the back side is also made textured, with characteristic roughness, by laying a backing under the laminate on the plywood. The dimensions of the frame are arbitrary and are tied only to the result - for what purpose and what size the tile is needed.

Masher– assembled from wood and plastic, designed for cutting the total mass in a mold into tiles. The frame is made of wooden slats, on which a plastic cutting part protruding to the thickness of the tile is fixed. Topicstarter suggests using school rulers as knives, but there are a lot of variations.

Albeduin simplified the task as much as possible for everyone interested, accompanying the description of the work procedure with graphics.

Making tiles

The form is placed on a table, workbench or any other flat surface and fill it with mortar - it needs to be laid out from one edge and leveled using a rule or spatula, finishing to the end. To give relief to the front tiled surface, after leveling the solution, they pass over it with a trowel “touch-to-touch”, after which they again level it along the edges of the frame. The result is voids and grooves, but with a smooth edge.

After about 15-20 minutes, when the solution begins to harden, the tiles themselves are formed with a press; they do not need to be cut through, a seam of half the thickness is sufficient. The frozen tile will easily break into segments, and less effort will be required during molding. After molding, use a spatula to cut the mortar around the perimeter of the frame - to avoid problems with removing the blanks. The pieces are left in the frame for three days; if a large volume is needed, several frames are made and stacked on top of each other when drying.

After three days, they begin to remove the semi-finished products - remove the frame and pull the workpiece towards you by the backing until the edge of the base coincides with the seam, and carefully break it off. Albeduin advises breaking off four tiles in fragments, this will simplify painting, and then breaking into segments. The tiles are stacked and left for another four days to dry.

The tiles are painted with tinting pastes, but they are added not to the paint, but to the acrylic primer. There are no exact proportions, since there are many manufacturers and different concentrations. The approximate ratio is one-eighth of a tube per liter of primer, but pay attention to the recommendations for use; do not exceed the maximum proportion. To obtain a shade close to ceramic brick, three colors are used - yellow, red and black. The paste of each color is mixed separately and applied to the tiles with a brush one at a time.

First comes yellow, this will be the base, it will be completely absorbed into the surface. After it dries, red is applied, since the tile has already absorbed the yellow primer, the permeability has deteriorated, and the red will partially spread into the voids. The black color is diluted thinner, and it will practically not be absorbed and will collect in the voids, giving a light tint.

This layer-by-layer coloring not only gives a more natural color, but also protects the tiles from external influences, and it can be used both indoors and on the facade.

If you wish, you can “play” with any shades, adjusting them to the interior.

Broken-shaped tiles are obtained by cutting segments not with a crusher, but with the edge of a spatula; otherwise, the technology is no different. You can grout the seams with the same mortar from which the tiles are made - DSP with primer. You should not use ready-made grouting compounds, as they are designed for a smooth surface, but in relief homemade tiles will clog tightly and ruin the whole look. When grouting with a solution, after drying, an indelible coating also forms, but it is easily removed - after the joint has dried, go over it with a brush dipped in primer.

Corner Tiles

Corner tiles are also made using this production technology; it is more complicated, but also quite doable at home. Depending on the desired angle, the frame is assembled not rectangular, but triangular. For those who know how to work with wood and have electric jigsaw, assembling a form from plywood and timber will not be difficult. Especially with a visual aid from Albeduin.

But not only the shape is different, there are also nuances in the manufacturing process.

The substrate is not only placed separately in each cell, but is also positioned so that the grooves on its surface run horizontally. This is done to hold the solution on an inclined base.

The solution is made thicker than for flat tiles and with a double dose of primer, since it should be more elastic, not rise beyond the rule and not fall out of the cells. With a thick mortar, you won’t be able to get the texture with slaps; the relief is pressed arbitrarily with the tip of a trowel or spatula.

Removal - as in the first option, the blanks are pulled out of the mold after three days, carefully prying them off together with the substrate, but for drying they are not stacked, but placed on an edge and the substrate is torn off. If it does not come off (due to an increase in the amount of primer in the solution), leave it for another couple of days.

Division - break the tiles into segments when they lie on the edge, with a pulling movement (you cannot pull) by the short side (up). To simplify breaking, even during the molding process, through notches are made along the ribs, and not just trimming along the perimeter of a large segment.

The strength of such facade tiles is best evidenced by the fact that on the base own home Topixarter, she has been feeling great for seven years now. And on the wall in the unheated utility room, nothing happened to it for several years.

Decorative gypsum brick

And for making imitation brickwork using a method from a portal participant with the nickname Vodnik-k2 even simple devices not required - gypsum “bricks” are made directly on the walls.

Vodnik-k2 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I would like to present to your attention gypsum plaster for antique brickwork with my own hands. When choosing a decorative finish to match the coffered ceiling in the hallway, we settled on old brickwork. But we decided not to use ready-made materials, but to make brick-like plaster.

Vodnik-k2 offers its own solution to the problem, embodied in the corridor - gypsum plaster under antique brickwork, the cost of which is about 70 rubles per m² (the price of plaster, pigment and protective coating).

Although the technology itself is absolutely simple, the monotony of the process is somewhat annoying for “the best thing for knitting lovers.”

DIY gypsum brick. Preparation

Prime the walls, beat off (using chalk strings or draw according to the rule) boundaries on them, observing the dimensions of a real brick (every second row is enough). Make a stencil: four bricks, you can cut it out of 5 mm plexiglass (plexiglass).

Preparation of the mixture - dry bag gypsum plaster(25 kg), dry pigments: ocher (1 l), red (0.5), brown (0.6). All dry components are thoroughly mixed in a large container (for convenience), and the gypsum base is poured out first. The easiest way to measure pigment is with a measuring cup (kitchen utensil). Mix the mixture with water (you can add a little primer, the composition will be more elastic) until the consistency of sculptural clay (thick, but easy to mold). The resulting effect depends on the consistency; a thick mortar is used for old bricks, and a thinner one is used for new bricks.

Application

The stencil is applied to the wall and the solution is applied, it does not matter what tool is used for installation, even with your hands, if it is more convenient, the main thing is to rub it in properly. The excess is cut off with a spatula, and since the batch is relatively sticky, it pulls behind the tool to be torn off, resulting in the characteristic relief of ceramic bricks. Before removing the stencil, the boundaries of the “masonry” are cut with an awl (spatula, knife) so that the edges do not lift up. After removing the stencil, the surface of the tiles is slightly smoothed with the flat part of the spatula. Manufacturing process decorative brick is repeated over the entire surface allocated for imitation.

For sealing seams Vodnik-k2 I used a homemade grout from a mixture of gypsum mounting adhesive and dry sand (fraction 0.75), taken in equal parts and sealed with a primer. I squeezed the mixture out of the bag (if you don’t mind, a large culinary syringe will do), and, if necessary, trimmed it with a spatula and brush.

After the plaster has completely dried, the walls are covered with protective and decorative compounds. Which one depends on the desired effect. The topic starter was coated with butediene styrene latex diluted 1/6 with water. You can apply the product with a brush, roller or garden sprayer. If the coverage area is small, a nozzle on plastic bottle. Latex increases the adhesion of plaster to the wall and evens out its permeability. To make the plaster moisture-resistant and provide the possibility of wet maintenance, it is coated with a water-repellent agent after latex. You should not overuse latex impregnation - one layer allows you to decorate the product, gives a pleasant, silky shine, after two there will be a gloss, which will not add to the appearance of the brick.

A large number of facing building materials are produced for façade finishing. Each of them has its own characteristics and advantages. But many are often stopped by the cost of the material.

Therefore, they resort to an alternative solution - making facade tiles with their own hands. This allows you to save money and give the facade of the building the appearance that you will like. In this article we will tell you about some of the secrets of the process of making tiles at home.

Choice of material - what affects it

When choosing a material for making tiles with your own hands, you need to understand that it serves a role not only for decoration. The finishing must reliably protect the facade from the negative effects of the environment.

In order to minimize the cost of producing facade tiles, the following factors are taken into account:

  • Cost of material for manufacturing.
  • Availability of cooking technology.
  • Shape and dimensions of the product.
  • Availability of decor and color shade.

Important! For the production of cladding, you can use different dry mixtures ranging from ordinary concrete and ending with special compounds.

Selecting forms

It is important to understand that the factory technology for manufacturing facade tiles is not suitable for home use. The only thing that can be introduced is the vibration casting method. As for the forms, the cost of a quality product is high.

The purchasing decision depends on the scope of work. One high-quality mold is designed for up to 1500 tile production cycles. If you need to produce up to 20 squares of tiles, then buying an expensive mold will not justify the investment. In this case, it is better to do it yourself. Therefore, it is important to make the correct calculations.

Important! It is not always possible to make a mold at home so that the tiles turn out to be of high quality, which will affect the aesthetics of the final result.

Therefore, if you do not have the ability and opportunity to make a high-quality mold with your own hands, it is better to purchase it.

Necessary equipment

The equipment for making facade tiles with your own hands depends on the raw materials used. The easiest way is to use concrete. To make tiles you need a good mold and a vibrating table.

The form can be made of plywood, plastic, wood or polyurethane. The best material is polyurethane. Using it you can convey the texture of the future tile in the smallest detail. Due to this, you can ideally create an imitation of natural stone and other building materials.

A large number of home craftsmen make a vibrating table on their own. To do this, you need a metal frame, a sheet of metal or other material for the countertop, a motor from a washing machine and springs.

Vibropressing technology is also used in the production of facade tiles. Thanks to its use, the density of raw materials is reduced without a large amount of water.

In some cases, a kiln is used to ensure that terracotta, clinker or porcelain tiles are fully prepared. In these furnaces, the workpiece is fired at a temperature of 1 thousand to 3 thousand degrees.

note

The main advantage of making tiles yourself is the ability to give it the desired shape and texture. You can experiment to make exclusive products, for example, make a non-standard shape or use a different composition of raw materials.

Two simple manufacturing methods


Step-by-step instruction

Now let's look at the step-by-step process of how to make facade tiles with your own hands. All work must be carried out at temperatures from +15 to +30 degrees Celsius. This temperature range will provide ideal conditions for the product to harden.

note

For protection purposes, gloves and goggles are required. The room should be well ventilated.

First, molds for casting are prepared. A vibrating table is also installed. You can use a regular table.

Further work has the following sequence:


Complete hardening can take up to two days. During this time, the forms cannot be touched. After this period, the forms are immersed in a container with warm water up to +60 degrees Celsius for three minutes. Afterwards they are removed from the water, as well as the tiles from the mold.

It is necessary to remove it carefully so as not to damage the workpiece. You can use a rubber mallet or light hand movements. The facade tiles will be completely ready for further cladding after 10 days.

Conclusion
As you can see, DIY tiles are a doable task. By making it yourself, you will save your family budget, but you will also need to spend time and effort on the production process itself.

But the end result will not leave you and those around you indifferent. To consolidate all the material presented, we recommend that you watch the prepared video.