Even the most reliable plumbing fixture can break down. It is especially unpleasant if this product is used daily by all family members. If the toilet cistern fittings have failed, you don’t want to wait a couple of days for a plumber to come, don’t you agree? Moreover, such a problem can be successfully solved on your own.
Before you begin the repair, you need to understand the design of the tank, the structure of the drain mechanism and understand the principle of operation of the drain. The article discusses in detail all of the above points, and also describes possible breakdowns toilet fittings and ways to eliminate them.
The toilet occupies a central place in any bathroom. If you can do without a shower or bathtub using a tray for ablutions, then the toilet is an indispensable device not only for every family member, but even for some pets.
Therefore, it is simply necessary to know its features and structure so that on a Saturday morning you do not find yourself face to face with such a breakdown.
You can repair or replace the tank fittings yourself. The main thing is to turn off the water before starting work and read the manufacturer’s recommendations for adjusting the structure
Toilet tanks differ in the material they are made of, the method of installation and connection to the water supply, and the type of button/lever location. And the price range of this type of plumbing fixtures is very wide - from inexpensive domestic models to exclusive design options from famous plumbing manufacturers.
According to the material of manufacture, they are distinguished the following types toilet cisterns:
The drainage fittings used for toilets are mainly made of plastic. This applies even to expensive models.
Only in exclusive versions do plumbers use metal fittings. Moreover, it is made of brass and bronze alloys
Earthenware tanks received recognition and wide spread throughout the world. It is this material that can most often be found in bathrooms where a pair of toilet + cistern is installed.
Earthenware products are produced as domestic producers, and famous Western companies. Choose the most best option for your bathroom will not be difficult
Plastic models drain tanks have a flattened shape. This is due to the specifics of their application - the so-called when the flushing device is installed in the wall. The design is reliable, easy to maintain and has a long service life.
Plastic toilet tanks must have an inspection window after installation. It is usually located behind the flush button
Cast iron tanks– this is a relic of the past. Heavy, bulky and unpresentable designs are still used by many zealous residents of our country. But during repairs, old cast iron products are often replaced with beautiful ones. modern plumbing.
Depending on the method of connection to the water supply, there are toilet tanks with upper and lower connections. The latter are more preferable - they look more presentable and create less noise during operation.
The option with top liner is produced by many Russian plumbing companies. To reduce noise when filling the container after draining, the fittings have been improved
There are three possible ways to install the cistern:
Top mount- This is a retro option. This arrangement drain device used in retro-style bathrooms.
Retro-style toilet cisterns are very popular among owners of large bathrooms. In a modest bathroom such a product would be inappropriate, and its price is very high
Toilet installation is used for hanging models when the tank is hidden in the wall. This allows you to save space in the bathroom and harmoniously fit the plumbing into general style bathroom/ toilet room.
Cisterns built into the installation, hidden by a false wall, have a higher price compared to inexpensive domestic plumbing fixtures made of earthenware
Mounting on a toilet shelf – traditional solution. These are the usual models of a plumbing pair, when the drainage system is attached to the shelf of the toilet bowl.
Advantages: simplicity and affordability. And the choice is very wide - you can choose both a domestic version and elite plumbing fixtures from Italian, French or German manufacturers.
A flush cistern on the toilet shelf is the most convenient option to maintain. If there is a need for repairs, it is easy to get to the fittings
Inside each flush cistern there is a shut-off valve to control the operation of the toilet. For many models, the fittings come complete with all the necessary fasteners and nuts.
Based on the method of water supply and installation location in the tank, the following types of fittings are distinguished:
Top connection design built into the collection tank. A flexible water supply tube is connected from above. This must be taken into account, because such fittings are not suitable for every model of cistern. Basically, only domestic manufacturers provide top connections in their plumbing products.
Fittings with bottom connection Comes complete with most Western-made waste cisterns. Moreover, the design is plastic, but the quality of all components is high.
Most often you may encounter the following problems:
Problem #1. Filling does not occur if the inlet membrane is severely clogged. Then you cannot do without cleaning or replacing it. If the membrane is in working condition, but the tank is not filled with working fluid, then you need to check the correct functioning of the float. Perhaps it's coming.
In built-in models, inspection, adjustment and repair of fittings passes through an inspection hole hidden behind decorative panel with button
Problem #2. Water constantly flows into the toilet, increasing the meter readings cold water. This problem occurs when large debris or other objects get into the tank. Anything unnecessary interferes with the normal operation of the tank’s filler fittings. It is also necessary to remove foreign objects from it.
It can also cause misalignment, loosening or breakage of the float. You can repair the float valve without much difficulty with your own hands:
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Before we begin repairing the float valve that controls the water supply to the tank, we turn off the water supply to it
We flush all the water from the toilet tank by pressing the key, button or handle intended for this purpose.
Unscrew the screws attaching the valve to the float located around it
If necessary, move the device holding the toilet tank float
Remove the membrane or washer from the valve locking mechanism. If they are damaged, replace them with similar ones.
Using vinegar and a brush (or an old toothbrush), remove calcium and rust deposits around the float valve.
Reinstall the membrane or washer, assemble the plumbing fixtures, and close the tank with a lid.
We check the operation of the repaired float valve. If everything is in order, we proceed to operation
Step 1: Turn off the water supply to the tank
Step 2: Flush all water from the sanitary cistern
Step 3: Unscrew the fasteners around the valve
Step 4: Offset the Float Holder
Step 5: Removing the Valve Washer or Diaphragm
Step 6: Remove any sediment around the float valve
Step 7: Reinstalling the Washer or Diaphragm
Step 8: Check Float Valve Operation
If everything is in order with the float, you need to check the condition of other plastic parts of the fittings - the rod, the diaphragm lever or the float spoke.
Problem #3. When I press the flush button, nothing happens. Here you have to check for gaps in places where they should not be - at the joints. Also, the plastic parts of the fittings may be broken, which is especially common in cheap models that have served for more than 3 years.
A frequent cause of disruption of the water supply to the tank is the inappropriate length of the drain and fill tubes or their damage. To combat the situation, we take the following steps:
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If the water flows into the tank too weakly or splashes when entering, check the condition of the drain-overflow mechanism. The overflow tube should be approximately 1 cm below the drain button or handle
If splashing occurs when draining water from the tank, shorten the filler tube to the required length
If damage is found on the filling tube or its condition does not inspire confidence in long-term service, cut off a tube of equal length. It should be equal in diameter to the worn tube
Insert a new piece into the seat of the old filling tube and, if necessary, adjust it to length
Step 1: Checking the Overflow Tube Position
Step 2: Check the condition and length of the fill tube
Step 3: Cutting a new filler tube for replacement
Step 4: Putting the New Tube in Place
Problem #4. Another problem that arises with the toilet cistern is leaks at the threaded connections. To eliminate this problem, you will need to replace the sealing gasket. If this part has not yet worn out, then you need to check whether the nuts are tightened well and whether there are any distortions.
Regardless of the model and brand of toilet cistern, the fundamental purpose of the cistern shut-off valve remains the same:
The cistern fittings kit consists of the following elements:
The design of the tank draining and filling mechanisms depends on the type of installation.
Type 1- a cistern suspended high above the toilet. This type is familiar to almost every resident of our country. Not too pretentious in appearance, it nevertheless has undeniable advantages:
Type 2– a flush cistern installed on the toilet shelf. In the majority modern apartments and public institutions this type of device is used.
Type 3– a tank built into the wall. It looks more like a thick-walled polyethylene canister.
All manipulations to replace the fittings of such a tank are carried out through the drain button hole.
In order to successfully install a toilet or bidet, you need to know what it should be like, this is necessary so that the pipes do not become clogged and wear out ahead of time. The most important and up-to-date information.
If the toilet “does not leak”, then the water consumption is minimal. However, in addition to paying for water, it is necessary to regularly check water meters. There is a lot here about the cost, conditions and frequency of this procedure. useful tips, how to save on checking meters!
It is hardly worth considering in our time the installation of drain fittings for suspended structures: They have long lost their relevance.
Therefore, in the future we will only talk about shut-off valves of the most common types - cisterns installed directly on toilets.
According to the method of activating the drain device, the mechanisms are divided into two groups:
In modern models of tanks, such a mechanism is practically never found. It is preserved only in fairly old models;
The piston movement in Croydon valves is vertical. This design is installed in old-style tanks.
By moving, the lever forces the piston to move in a horizontal direction. The piston, periodically in contact with the seat, regulates the flow of water into the tank.
A gasket is mounted at the end of the piston, which blocks the water flow when the piston presses on the seat. Tanks with piston valves are found in many Russian apartments.
The plastic piston, moving under the action of the lever, also moves the membrane. It blocks the water inlet. Diaphragm valve is latest achievement in the production of flush cisterns.
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The tank can be filled in two ways:
A tank with a side inlet fills with water noisily, while with a bottom supply, water fills the container almost silently.
But many manufacturers began to supplement the tank fittings with a side inlet with an outlet pipe. It is made of soft plastic and directs a stream of water to the lower zone of the container.
Thanks to this addition, The flush tanks with side inlet stopped making noise.
Drain cisterns supplied to retail chains are, as a rule, equipped with the necessary set of fittings.
And the majority of users are not interested in exactly what mechanisms ensure the normal functioning of the device.
But time passes, and the tank ceases to cope with its task. It is at this moment that the user has to get acquainted with his device and solve the problem of purchasing spare parts.
Moreover, the problem is not that they are difficult to buy, but how to buy a quality product.
Quality of cistern fittings plays a huge role in its normal functioning.
It is faulty mechanisms that cause various problems. For example, water begins to seep into the toilet bowl, causing the snow-white surface of the toilet bowl to become covered with red streaks.
Read more about the types, costs, sizes of toilets and bidets, what is typical, installation methods and selection tips only on our website.
Sewer pipes require periodic cleaning. About cleaning methods, cost, special devices for this procedure and much more, let your sewage system function as it should.
Or the flushing mechanism ceases to control the volume of water released. Such troubles can happen due to various reasons, but the most common ones are the following:
So, in what cases does it become necessary to replace fittings:
But if after adjusting it nothing has changed, it means the float is damaged: it lets water in, becomes heavier and sinks to the bottom. In this case, you will have to purchase a new float.
It's very inexpensive - just about 4 rubles. But in practice, if the float malfunctions replace the entire float valve. This node costs on average 200 – 300 rubles.
The cost of this element depends on the method of its manufacture:
Many users often wonder: is it worth replacing individual elements of tank fittings?
After all, if the mechanism begins to wear out, then one breakdown will be followed by others. It is safer to replace the entire set of fittings.
In addition, it is very difficult to find, say, a membrane or a float for an imported flush tank. A Replacing a part with a non-original one often does not lead to the expected result.
The cost of a set of fittings for a Polish-made Cersanit tank with a bottom water supply is 650 rubles. The kit includes:
The fittings for the Vidima tank are 1250 rubles. But for products of this brand You can order the membrane separately. It will cost 300 rubles.
Hybner cistern drain with stop function 1800 rubles.
The tank drain valve made in Spain by Jika costs 2800 rubles. The product is available in two versions:
The Jika flush valve can be used in the ROCA and JIKA collection cisterns:
Domestic-made fittings are much cheaper. For example, fittings "Way of life"(produced in Pskov) will cost the buyer from 250 to 340 rubles.
Moreover, the manufacturer states that everything plastic elements are made from virgin polypropylene, and shut-off valves are produced with the addition of natural rubber.
Interesting options are offered by the Ryazan company "Center heating equipment and plumbers." They produce brand fittings "RBM" with three types of valves:
They can be used in tanks with both side and bottom water supply. They have models with rod and push-button start mechanisms.
Universal design:
It’s even strange that now a cistern suspended high above the toilet is not in fashion, yet it seems that it really is the most efficient, after all, the speed of water flow is a fairly important factor. I even wanted to make one like this at home, I’ll have to find out if it’s possible to do this now, otherwise I was recently in a plumbing store, but I didn’t see anything like it.
I really like the hidden toilet flush barrels that are built into the hay. There is only one button visible on the face. Unfortunately, such a system is very expensive, and not everyone can afford it. Recently I began to think about the economy of the toilet flush barrel. Today it is very actual question for all. Are there systems that allow you to save water?
Complies with the requirements of TU 4953-001-02903999-2014
Purpose of the product
The fittings for the flush tank are designed to fill the flush tank (popularly the cistern) with water and supply it for flushing into the toilet.
Security measures
The materials used for the manufacture of fittings are not emitted into environment harmful substances and do not provide harmful effects on the human body through direct contact. Working with fittings does not require special precautions.
Specifications
Completeness
The fittings kit includes:
Product storage and care
The fittings should be stored packaged in dry indoors at a distance of less than 0.6 m from heating devices.
The use of detergents that contain abrasive, acidic and alkali-containing substances, or organic solvents is not allowed.
Manufacturer's Warranty
The guaranteed service life of the fittings is five years from the date of commissioning, but not more than six years from the date of release. The service life of the fittings is 6 years.
The product warranty does not apply in the following cases:
To increase the reliability and durability of the fittings, it is recommended to additionally install a filter in the water supply network.
Installation of fittings
The fittings are supplied in assembled form, equipped and configured for a specific type of tank
After installing the fittings, do not allow the moving parts of the valves to touch each other or the walls of the tank.
When connected water hose to the intake valve, hold the valve from turning.
To avoid leakage from under the gasket, tighten the wing nuts evenly on both sides.
Check that there is a gap of 3 - 19 mm between the tank cap and the push-button assembly inserted all the way into the thread of the release valve (without screwing it in).
To reliably center the threads, before screwing in, make 1–2 turns counterclockwise until a characteristic click is heard, which will indicate that the thread has “sat” into place.
Adjustment of fittings
limits 3...19 mm, it is necessary to adjust the release valve in height
(see Fig. 2 and the table for setting the height of the fittings), Disconnect rod 23 from
overflow housing 12. Press out the cup latches 10 and move
racks 6 up and down, achieve a gap of 3...19 mm.
Attach the rod to the overflow body.
disconnect rod 2 (see Fig. 1), move
float up or down and reattach
craving for him. Minimum distance between
water level and the upper edge of the tank 45 mm.
(see Fig. 2). To do this, unscrew the bayonet cap 9 and move the pipe
overflow to a position where the mark on the pipe corresponds to the level
water in the tank. Tighten the bayonet cap.
* For fittings with extended post
** when adjusting to this division, remove the overflow pipe 7
Fittings for flush cistern, Installation of toilet lid
Looking at the ingenious interweaving of sewer, water pipes, hoses, having “talked” a lot with gentlemen plumbers from the housing department who arrived on a regular visit regarding an extraordinary blockage or leak, after a superficial study of the structure of the toilet, having re-read a bunch of responses and advice from experienced people, Volence-Nolens comes to I conclude that a toilet with a bottom water supply is the best option. 
The undoubted advantages include:
The efficiency of sanitary equipment directly depends on the quality of cleaning sediment from the outlet pipe elbow; this function is performed by the fittings for the toilet flush cistern.
Initially, the diameter of the water intake pipe is measured with a tape measure or ruler. At 1.5 cm the eyeliner is 3/8 inch, at 2.0 cm it is ½ inch.
It is better to buy fittings of the same model as the old one. To do this, dismantle the failed mechanism and show a sample to the sales consultant. Nowadays, fittings are often sold already assembled, which does not require additional effort. 
How the fittings for a toilet cistern with bottom supply are arranged
The materials from which the fittings are made are plastic, metal, bronze. Plastic is the most popular, but fragile material, the cost of a product made from it is low, bronze is correspondingly more durable material and the cost of a product made from it is quite high. There is nothing complicated in the structure of the cistern fittings. Despite the variety of models, the principle of constructing reinforcement is the same. 
The fittings intended for the lower supply are divided into:
The push-button device, in turn, is divided into:
Materials and tools required for installation and replacement of fittings
Even a non-professional can install the mechanism in the flush cistern. Initially, you should read the instructions included with the kit; you shouldn’t neglect to study them.
Fittings for a toilet with a bottom connection, which device is better?
No living space can be imagined without an equipped toilet room. In order for the toilet to function correctly, it is necessary to select and install fittings in the cistern. Modern toilet fittings with bottom or side connections can last a long time if they are selected and installed correctly.
Internal structure of the toilet cistern
Modern shut-off valves for toilets come in two types:
Fittings with bottom connection
The components of the lower reinforcement are:
Tank fittings with bottom connection
The main advantages of lower reinforcement are:
Fittings with side connection
The fittings for a toilet with side connection include the following structural elements:
Toilet fittings with side connection
TO positive qualities lateral reinforcement include:
The only one negative factor is the appearance of noise when filling the tank with water.
Replacement of toilet fittings is required when malfunctions in the operation of the system are detected. In order for a new device to serve for a long time, when choosing, you should be guided by the following aspects:
Types of reinforcement depending on the material used for manufacturing
Sealing elements for fittings
Set of elements for fastening fittings
Installation of fittings in the drain tank is carried out according to the following scheme:
Installing the inlet and drain valves
Fittings correctly located in the tank
Water supply for the cistern
Setting the required water level in the tank
Rules for connecting the handle for draining water
An absolutely unqualified person can independently select fittings for a cistern, knowing the basic rules. When installing fittings, the main thing is to strictly adhere to the diagram described above and check the tightness of the resulting connections.
Fittings for a toilet with bottom and side connections: rules for selection and installation
Plumbing repair is a delicate matter, which is why most people prefer to turn to specialists. But it is not always possible to call a professional, and in most cases the breakdown can be completely repaired on your own. For example, a toilet cistern that is always “noisy” without a break and water constantly flowing inside the faience throne will certainly lead anyone to the conclusion that repair of the cistern fittings with a bottom line or other manipulations inside are required storage tank. It is quite possible to perform such an operation with your own hands. 
The constantly flowing water in the tank itself can signal several types of breakdown:
Worn locking membrane. This often happens during long-term water outages; rubber that has become wet during operation dries out and cracks. New fittings for the cistern with bottom connection will be required.
Incorrect float level relative to overflow. All you need to do is adjust the position of the float inside the tank, which can be done in a matter of minutes.
Leaks inside the filling fittings or failure of the locking mechanism. Such breakdowns can be eliminated by replacing the entire assembly.
Also, wear of the gaskets can lead to a leak at the junction of the supply hose and the tank. This problem can be solved by replacing a damaged gasket, replacing the entire worn hose, or a new shut-off valve for the drain tank with a bottom connection. Leaks are also possible at the places where the tank is attached, which may indicate its incorrect installation or damage during operation. In any case, first you need to finally decide how serious the breakdown is, identify the faulty unit and calculate own strength, since after careless intervention in the plumbing system, the costs of a specialist can increase significantly. 
To identify the causes, you often have to look inside the drain tank; this is done quite simply. Most existing systems, except for the completely outdated ones with ropes, have working buttons or a rod that is attached using internal thread. By unscrewing this element from the main part of the fittings, you can remove the tank lid and look inside. The fittings for a flush cistern with a bottom connection differ in that the water-carrying hose is connected more secretly to the toilet cistern, namely from the back and bottom. 
If you have come to the conclusion that it is necessary complete renovation such a unit as fittings for a drain tank with a bottom connection, then you need to decide on a replacement. Unfortunately, obsolete types flush fittings will have to be replaced along with the tank, or even the entire toilet, so their repair comes down to temporary measures or the use of handicrafts. But the majority modern models flush tanks are compatible with universal fittings. When choosing suitable model fittings, it is important to decide on the connection, bottom or side, while the method of activation, button or pull lever can be selected to your own taste. Push-button fittings can be made with two buttons with the implementation of an incomplete drainage mode; when choosing such a model, it is worth considering the capacity of the tank. You should also know that different manufacturers have their own design and assembly of fittings for a drain tank with a bottom connection, so selecting a failed individual part can be extremely difficult. 
If your fittings for a drain tank with a bottom connection require replacement, and you decide to do the repairs yourself, you will need to prepare workplace and some set of simple tools. First of all, it is necessary to shut off the access of water to the tank and drain the water. Working with plumbing means possible splashes of water and drops on the floor, so it’s worth stocking up on a rag or sponge. Threaded connections on tanks they are usually tightened only by hand, since the main material of the fittings is plastic. You may need pliers or an adjustable wrench for overtightened nuts. To rinse the tank and remove plaque, you may need detergents used for bathtubs or tiles.
As a standard, the fittings consist of two independent units: a water inlet valve with a locking system and a manually controlled flush valve. Often, only one of the components requires replacement, which can be taken into account when purchasing. To remove the inlet valve, you must first unscrew the flexible hose and then the retaining plastic nut, after which the entire valve structure can be removed through the top of the reservoir.
The flushing mechanism in universal fittings is secured with an external nut, to access which you will have to remove the entire tank. First, remove the special bolts that hold the water tank in place, then turn the tank for convenience and unscrew the outlet valve nut. If the supply hose is of sufficient length, the procedure for replacing the outlet valve of the fittings can be carried out without dismantling the inlet mechanism. 
Installation is carried out in reverse order. Manufacturers clearly indicate in the instructions where to use special gaskets. All connections must be tightened without the use of wrenches or other tools. First, install the drain fitting into the tank and secure it with a nut. The two screws securing the tank to the toilet should be tightened simultaneously and evenly to avoid distortions in the joint. Attaching the inlet valve must also be done by hand; these precautions protect the fragile porcelain of the tank from chipping and soft gaskets from chafing.
If you come across identical fittings for a cistern with a lower connection on sale, as was before, the adjustment can be made according to the marks of the old mechanism. In another case, you will have to adjust the product to its location right in the tank, fortunately this is not particularly difficult. Universal fittings are equipped with special movable connections with latches, allowing the device to be adjusted to a large number of tank models. First, adjust the inlet valve so that the level of collected water is sufficient, but does not exceed the drain hole of the outlet valve. It is better to check immediately by filling the tank with water. in the usual way through the supply hose. Next is the adjustment drain valve according to the height of the tank, the button without screwing in should be several mm higher than the level of the lid. Later, during installation, the button will move down and become flush with the surface of the tank. 
For a comfortable atmosphere in the house, it is necessary that the plumbing work properly. At the same time, I would like to note that the sewerage system and toilet, which are its components, play an important role. In turn, for the toilet to work well, you need to pay attention to it technological features, its design, as well as the condition of the reinforcement.
Before deciding how to choose fittings for a toilet, let’s try to understand what should be understood by the word “fittings”. This word should be understood as all the constituent elements that are aimed at ensuring the operation of plumbing, which includes, among other things, the toilet.
According to the functions performed, the following types can be distinguished:
Each type constitutes separate mechanisms, which, nevertheless, are closely related to each other. The latter circumstance leads to the fact that if one of them breaks down, the second one stops working too.
The function of filling the tank, as described earlier, is assigned to the mechanism in question. Let's highlight its main details. Thus, the shut-off system is a set of shut-off valves, levers, float and supply fittings.
Several levers usually form a single set of metal or plastic parts connected to a float. To make the latter, foam or a hollow plastic balloon is usually used; it is designed to regulate the water level in cistern and determine when the tank is full.
In this case, all shut-off valves operate as follows. First, the liquid fills the drain tank. In this case, the float rises to a certain limit.
As described earlier, the float and levers are connected, therefore, when the float reaches a certain limit, the lever acts on a valve specially installed for locking, and the flow of water is blocked.
You can also highlight different types fittings according to the location of the liquid supply. Thus, water, if there are fittings for a toilet with a side connection, can flow from the side, while the water supply is usually located on top.
With this arrangement, water is usually drawn in with great noise. The least noise is created by water supply from below. Water can also be supplied from above, but this is a rather rare design.
Thus, fittings for a toilet with a bottom connection seem to be the most preferable.
Let's consider the principle of operation of the fittings that ensure the drainage of water. Components such fittings will be:
At the same time, there are several systems that differ in design. So, there is a full flush system with a button; a system with two water drainage modes, provided special function- you can interrupt the drainage of liquid.
In the latter case, an analogue of a key is used that releases either the water completely or partially. I would like to make a separate point about the rod fittings used for the toilet, which operate on the basis of the rod.
There are three types of float valves. These are piston-operated valves equipped with a special lever. “Croydon” - this mechanism was used previously, in modern toilets, as a rule, it is replaced by another. A valve based on a silicone or rubber membrane that replaces a gasket.
It should be added that if the float fails, the entire locking system will have to be replaced completely.
When choosing fittings for a toilet, pay attention to the choice of high-quality, durable plastic parts so that the fittings are resistant to overheating and cooling and can withstand mechanical loads.
The membrane valve must be selected taking into account the fact that salt-rich water with impurities quickly damages the membrane. It is also recommended to choose products of a good brand to exclude defects. It is also useful to familiarize yourself with photos of toilet fittings before purchasing.
If problems arise during the operation of plumbing, then to eliminate them it is worth following a certain algorithm. First, find out the causes of the breakdown, adjust the water flow level, and replace worn parts.
Then you should clean the channels, as well as system parts, from plaque and dirt. In case of serious damage, you should contact a specialist.
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