Masters with gray hairs remember how open wiring was done thirty years ago, they saw what changes took place in technology fifteen years ago and can compare with in modern ways styling open wiring. So that you have something to compare with and make decisions easier, we’ll do short review all existing and existing methods.
It’s called so beautifully now, but previously it was the only option for open wiring. It was used not only in the bathhouse, but also in residential premises. The wires were fixed on porcelain insulating rollers.
For such wiring, the electrical wires must only be single-core, the cups are fixed at a distance of no more than ten centimeters, plus one at each turn. The wires had to be twisted, and this was a long and tedious task. In addition, the white insulation became dusty and dirty for a short time, and various spider bugs very often took up permanent residence in it.
Today, open wiring using the described method is installed only by great lovers of antiquity, who do not know what appearance it will have in a few years.
More good option, the electrical cables were hidden in plastic pipes, which looked much better on the walls. In addition, plastic pipes served additional protection from mechanical damage.
Disadvantages: complexity of installation and routine maintenance. Electricians still remember how difficult it was to pull cables through pipes, especially if there were bends.
Often the pipes had to be cut and, after pulling the cables, connected with couplings. Another significant drawback is the great difficulty during production. repair work. Due to its low cost, open wiring in plastic pipes is still quite often used today.
According to most professional electricians, open wiring is the best option. Essentially, it can only be called open based on the cable laying technology; in appearance, it bears little resemblance to the usual options; rather, it can be called semi-open.
Manufacturers produce a huge number of options both in the number of cables and in the method of fixation, overall dimensions and the availability of additional accessories. The advantages include ease of installation, durability, safe operation, versatility of use, and the presence of numerous special additional accessories. Additional elements solve issues with internal and external corners, turns, connections of sockets, switches, mounting boxes, etc.
It is this type of open wiring that we will focus on in the article. Before directly considering the issues of fastening cable channels, you should learn a little about their types and technical capabilities.
cable channel
Cable channels are classified according to several important criteria.
| Characteristic | Description | Illustration |
|---|---|---|
| By location. | They can be floor, parapet, baseboard and main. The appearance of each category is maximally adapted to the installation site; it can resemble profile moldings. | |
| According to color design. | There are light, dark and imitation natural wood. | |
| By linear dimensions. | Designed for one, two, three or more cables. External dimensions range from 40×25 mm to 100×60 mm. They may have sharp or rounded corners and increased lid sizes. There are options with high lids; their shelves cover the entire height of the internal elements of the channel - creating the impression of a monolithic product. This not only improves the appearance of the electrical wiring, but also increases its protection from the negative influence of external factors. | |
| By the number of locks - with one or two locks. | Two locks more reliably keep the lid from opening spontaneously and eliminate the possibility of deformation of the lid. | |
| According to the material of manufacture. | Plastic, steel and aluminum. Aluminum ones are covered with polyethylene film to match various types of wood, they go well with existing interiors, but in terms of price they are considered the most expensive option. Plastics do not support open combustion; the use of such channels for laying cables with voltages up to 1000 V is permitted. | |
| According to the degree of protection from dust and moisture. | Certain brands of plastic channels have a degree of protection IP55, which allows them to be used in open areas and in rooms with high humidity levels, and protects against multidirectional splashes of water. This is a very important characteristic for a bathhouse. |
The main parameters when choosing a cable channel are the cross-section and number of cables that are planned to be laid in the network. Of course, you need to pay attention to the appearance, try to choose an option that would harmonize as much as possible with the existing interior of the bathhouse premises.
Step 1. Draw a plan for the placement of electrical networks, devices and equipment.
Consider several options, consider the possibility of increasing the power and number of electrical fittings. Depending on the maximum total power of all consumers electrical energy, select the cable diameter. To make your choice easier, refer to table No. 1.
Experienced electricians do not keep all the values in their heads, they only remember that 1 mm2 cross-section copper cable designed for 1.3 kW of power at a voltage of 220 V, and 1 mm2 of aluminum cable holds only 0.5 kW at the same voltage. The following is simple arithmetic. If a cross-section of 2.5 mm2 is indicated on the copper cable sheath, then it can be used to connect current consumers with a total power of 2.5 × 1.3 = 3.25 kV. Always round up and use this cable at 3.0 kW.
Practical advice. For a bathhouse, it is enough to buy an ordinary plastic box with dimensions of 40x25 mm; a cable that can withstand power of up to 10 kW easily fits into it. In the implementation there are boxes made under ceiling plinth or floor baseboard. An excellent solution, but it needs to be thought through before finishing the walls or floor. We recommend installing the central wiring above the floor and the terminals below. lighting, mounting boxes, sockets and switches should be made from below. But this is not for everyone; you can use other options for installing electrical wiring.
You should have it drawn as general circuit diagram electrical wiring starting from the input distribution board, and a separate circuit for each room of the bathhouse.
Select fastening hardware depending on the wall material. You need self-tapping screws for wood, special hardware for drywall, and dowels for brick.
Each cable channel manufacturer produces a wide range of additional elements: internal and external corners, triangles, plugs, couplings, mounting boxes, sockets, switches, etc. Carefully calculate the nomenclature and total quantity; we recommend taking several pieces in stock. They cost pennies, and in the end it will cost much less than going to the store again to purchase the missing elements.
Step 2. Make the markings. For example, we’ll take a bathhouse that already has fully lined walls and flooring. There is only one option for open wiring in cable channels - on top of the walls. It is better to do the wiring near the floor; in this case, it is much easier to drill holes and attach the cable channel. Working near the ceiling with your arms outstretched all the time is tiring and inconvenient. Moreover, you will have to hold a rather heavy drill and screwdriver in your hands.
Experienced electricians make markings on the walls only for mounting boxes, switches and sockets; cable channels are installed immediately without drawing preliminary lines. Take a section of the channel, place it against the wall, set a level on top (or side) and adjust the spatial position. Next, hold the box with one hand, and with the other hand, drill holes in the bottom for the hardware. This is quite difficult; you not only need to have experience, but also be able to optimally organize the installation process. We will tell you how to make detailed markup for beginners, this will help avoid annoying mistakes.
set of hardware
You need to have a hydraulic level, a rope with blue, a ruler and a pencil.
Don’t be afraid to use blue – the broken lines will be covered with a cable duct. Start making markings from the distribution panel, while at the same time taking into account not only the characteristics of the cables and the placement of sockets, mounting boxes, switches, etc., but also the layout and purpose of the premises.
The markings and calculations are completed, installation can begin.
Step 3. Fastening cable channels. Fastening methods depend on the material used to make the walls and the material of the finishing cladding. Let's consider each option in detail.
construction level
Gypsum boards consist of two layers of paper with gypsum sandwiched between them. The material is relatively new and is very popular among professional construction companies- it is easy to work with, it is very technologically advanced, etc. But consumers cannot say so many good words about this material - the strength of plasterboard boards is below any criticism. Remove the paper from the drywall and it will crumble; any noticeable force on the drywall will not result in visible damage to the surface. Accordingly, attaching cable channels to such material is quite problematic. There is no point in using screws (even special ones). If you “overdo it” a little while screwing, the threads in the plaster will turn and the fastening strength will approach zero.
We recommend using only plastic cable channels on such walls; the use of aluminum ones is highly undesirable. You need to fasten the plastic with liquid nails; in the most critical places you can additionally use special screws.
Practical advice. Due to the fact that plasterboards have a decorative finishing coat, it needs to be checked for adhesion with liquid nails. Not all types of paints and not all types of wallpaper are suitable for gluing. First, glue a small piece of plastic box in some secluded place and check the strength of the adhesive every other day. Everything is fine - you can use this technology.
Apply liquid nails to the box with reverse side thin layer, the application strip should be wavy to increase the adhesion area. There should be just enough glue so that when pressing the cable channels it does not protrude beyond their perimeter. To increase the reliability of fastening, you can additionally fix it with self-tapping screws.
A complex and time-consuming option, it is necessary to use dowels. The advantage of dowels is high reliability, but in our case no noticeable physical activity channels are not expected, the advantage becomes unnecessary, and large labor costs remain. How to attach cable channels to dowels?
Important. Drill carefully, select the correct drill diameter. It should be a few tenths of millimeters smaller than the diameter of the plastic element of the dowel. This element should fit into the hole with little effort.
If the wall is uneven, then choose places for drilling holes in convex areas, this way you will be able to avoid visible deformation of the cable channel. Making a mistake is not a problem. Most metal dowels have a thread; you can unscrew them a little, loosen the pressing force against the wall, and thereby correct the resulting deformation.
In all places where individual sections of cable ducts are cut or joined, additional connecting elements must be secured. This is a general rule for all methods of fixing cable channels.
Professional installers use a pneumatic gun and special nails to fix cable ducts to brick or concrete surfaces. But a pneumatic nail gun is expensive equipment; purchasing it for one bathhouse is impractical.
pneumatic nail gun
For baths - the most common option, fastening is done with self-tapping screws, the length of the screws is approximately 1.5÷2 centimeters. On a flat surface, you can first drill holes in the cable channel at a distance of up to twenty centimeters, and then use them for fixation. It's easier, but longer. If there is practice in carrying out construction work, then self-tapping screws can be screwed into the bottom of the channel cable and the wall at the same time.
Problems may arise when laying exposed wiring along clapboard walls. The lining boards have a profile; screws should be fastened carefully. If the self-tapping screw hits a convex section of the profile, great, you can tighten it completely. If you have to screw a self-tapping screw into the concave part of the profile, do not tighten the self-tapping screw all the way, make sure that it does not disrupt the linearity of the plastic channel.
We have already advised you to buy special additional elements for passing external and internal corners, connections at right angles, tees, etc. All joints can be filed at right angles; the cut may not be perfectly smooth. Overlay elements will cover problem areas, the connection will be beautiful, and the work will be significantly speeded up. You can cut a plastic cable channel with a hacksaw, special mounting scissors, or a cylindrical grinder (grinder) with a metal disc.
What to do if for some reason there are no additional elements, how to cut the channel so that the connection is not noticeable?
First use standard long channels, do not rush to cut them into pieces. You should always have all the pieces at hand, among them you can choose the length you need and not touch the whole one. To do this, it will be necessary to move the socket a few centimeters in one direction or another - no big deal.
If you need to store the purchased cable channels for a long time, then place them on a flat surface, do not allow direct contact with them. sun rays. Over time, all plastics, when exposed to sunlight, darken and lose their plasticity. Don’t believe manufacturers’ advertisements about “complete resistance” to UV rays thanks to modern technologies, various innovative additives do not completely protect plastic from such influences, but only slow down the process of physical aging.
Mounted cable channel
Modern residential building is saturated big amount electrical equipment, the operation of which requires connection to a 220 or 380 V network, i.e. presence of a large number of electrical wires. At the same time, the use of computer equipment in the residential sector is growing rapidly for various purposes. All this leads to the need to lay and fasten numerous wires.
Power and information wiring wires are designed for stationary operation. This means that once the installation is completed, they must be secured securely. Further in the article we will look at popular options for fastening wires and cables to the wall and ceiling, depending on the type of installation.
Open laying of reins is characterized by simplicity and high speed of implementation. Its disadvantage as a method of fastening wiring is the deterioration of the aesthetics of the premises. Therefore, open cable routing is used:
Regardless of the area of application of open fastening, the project author can use a number of means.
Wiring bundles, often also called (decorative) cable trays, are extruded from a fire-resistant polymer. As a means of forming cable routes, they are very common when installing office electrical wiring. They are not often found in city apartments, but when laying wiring in country houses they are very popular due to the ease of installation.
They are closed products with a base and a removable or hinged lid to ensure aesthetics and fasten the harness. The removable cover is attached to the base with side latches as shown in Fig. 1. Channels can have a rectangular or triangular cross-section. Rectangular channels are installed horizontally at a height of about 80 cm along the perimeter of the room; with their help, descents to switches are often made.
Rice. 1. Examples of single-section cable ducts of various cross sections
Triangular hollow plastic skirting boards are convenient because they secure the edges of the carpet.
There are also segment-type channels that can withstand high compressive forces and are designed for unprotected floor mounting.
Inside a channel of any type, removable or integral partitions can be provided, which form separate sections for wire harnesses and allow compliance with safety standards. fire safety.
The channels are equipped with a number of accessories:
An example of a channel with accessories is shown in Fig. 2.
Figure 2. Decorative cable channel with accessories Due to the fact that decorative boxes combine best properties open and closed gaskets, they are unique with a set of advantages such as:
The main means of fastening the cable channel is a screw screwed into a pre-installed plastic plug. The distance between the attachment points is approximately 50 cm.
Plastic and metal staples are the most common wire holders for open wiring. They are a small part with a recess for round cables and a hole for a fastening element. With plastic brackets, the fastening screw or nail is often already installed in the housing during production, which makes installation easier, fig. 3.
Figure 3. Plastic bracket with screw The recesses and, accordingly, the staples have different sizes. Due to better aesthetic parameters, fastening with plastic brackets is advisable in residential areas.
Metal staples can work to clamp and hold down. The latter are divided into single-legged and two-legged. Their design is clear from Fig. 4.
 a) |
 b) |
Rice. 4. Options for single-leg metal staples: a) clamp type; b) clamp type
The bracket is functionally similar to the dowel-clamp, which is shown in Fig. 5. It differs only in the method of attachment. For installation, a hole is drilled in the wall, and a clamp pre-attached to the cable is inserted into the hole, if necessary, driving it there with a hammer.
Rice. 5. Dowel clamp When installed on the ceiling, this component takes on the functions of a plastic suspension.
A plastic clip or cable clamp can be considered the second most popular among simple fastening elements. Holds the cable in working position due to the compressive action of spring jaws. Not recommended for use as a mounting pendant. The design is clear from Fig. 6.
Rice. 6. Clip for cables of different diameters In most cases, the main element of fastening the clip is a screw, which ensures reliable fixation. Clips for adhesive installation are also available.
The clip sizes are for single wire. If it is necessary to lay several wires, the clips are installed next to each other, for which the contacting side surfaces are equipped with a system of protrusions.
A special feature of using this type of clip is strict control over whether the mounting hole corresponds to the diameter of the wire.
Clips large sizes They are also used for fastening thin-walled metal pipes and flexible cable ducts with a corrugation diameter of up to 50 mm.
The insulator is a small barrel with an additional circular groove, offset from the transverse axis of symmetry, and a central hole for a mounting screw. Due to the groove, a characteristic cap appears on the insulator, which is clearly visible in Fig. 7. The edges of the housing are smoothed, which protects the wire insulation from damage and improves aesthetics.
Rice. 7. Colored ceramic insulator Previously made exclusively from ceramics white. Now, due to the growing popularity of retro style when decorating apartments, colored ceramic insulators are widely available.
The insulator is used to fasten the twisted wire, and when fixing the wire, the pairs are slightly moved apart and placed under the cap on the fixing groove. When changing the direction of laying, the insulator is installed directly at the top of the corner, and the wire, due to the relatively low strength of the turns, must be additionally fixed to it with wire.
The well-known effect of sagging wires is eliminated by choosing the distance between the insulators. The recommended value of this parameter is 0.5 m; if necessary, it can be increased to 80 cm.
A tie clamp is a universal fastening element that is designed to secure conductors. Most often used as part of other fastening elements. Some types of clamps do not require additional components when forming cable routes.
The clamp is a plastic belt with an integral lock, which is designed as its extension, Fig. 8. The belt is grooved, which prevents it from coming out of the lock. The lock can be supplemented with a ring that allows you to fix the clamp with a screw on any flat surface.
Ties are also used as fastening elements when laying out wires and pipes on cable trays.
Rice. 8. Screed clamp with additional mounting platform A remarkable feature of plastic ties is their ease of use. To fasten, the belt is threaded through the hole of any fastener, wrapped around a single cable, a bundle of wires, or, then the tie is secured by tightening the belt.
A not fully tightened tie acts as a hanger, replacing the metal tape.
Despite the widespread use of twisted pair, when connecting to a network landlines The TRP subscriber telephone cable is still in use. Because of its characteristic appearance, this wire is often called a “telephone noodle.”
To fasten the TRP, ordinary shoe nails or other suitable size nails are used, which are driven into the wall through a polymer constriction specially provided for this purpose between two insulated copper conductors, Fig. 9.
Rice. 9. Cross-section of the TRP cable (“telephone noodle”) and nail orientation during fastening Hidden installation is used when there is a suspended, suspended or false ceiling in the room. The nature of the area of operation makes it possible to reduce to a minimum the requirements for the aesthetics of hidden fixation elements.
This simple mounting component is a plastic square piece that front side which has one or two eyes. After installing the pads, the cable can be secured with ties.
Rice. 10. Platform with two pairs of eyes for tie rods Less common are platforms with a plastic clamp integrated into it.
The platform can be secured with glue or a screw (less often two, for example see Fig. 10). When fastening with a screw, the central part of the platform is provided with a mounting hole.
A dowel-clamp or a dowel necklace as a fastening element is a combination of a dowel with a mounting platform. Involves the use of a separate screed. Sometimes the tie is an integral component of the dowel; this design is shown in Fig. eleven.
Rice. 11. Dowel clamp with integral tie To increase the fastening strength, the usual notch is replaced with developed ribbing of the plastic dowel rod with round pads of small thickness. During installation, the dowel is driven into a hole whose diameter is slightly smaller than the diameter of the fins. The holding force is increased by bending the plates back.
Quick-drying compounds, the functions of which are most often assigned to alabaster or gypsum, are used to secure a cable or tube in a groove. When using this method, the groove with the cable or tube laid in it is covered with a small amount approximately every 50 cm installation staff. This and the rest of the part is covered with mounting tapes.
The strengths of this fastening method are low cost, high installation speed, complemented by the possibility of installation without special fasteners. Main disadvantage- low channel capacity (no more than two wires), as well as the difficulty of laying a corrugated tube in the groove.
We must also not forget that the laid wire is difficult to replace if it fails.
Clips are structurally similar to clips and are often combined with them into one group. The main difference is a different principle of fastening the wire: with a rigid integral clamp. A variant of the design of this element is shown in Fig. 12.
Figure 12. Clip-clamp with latch Cable clips can also have a group design, as shown in Fig. 13. The group fastening component is characterized by the presence of several mounting sockets for wires or plastic pipes, closed by a common fixing bracket.
Rice. 13. Three-post group clip-clamp Clamps as fastening elements, due to their increased structural complexity, have more high cost compared to classic clips. They are attractive because they allow you to fix cables of different diameters. At the same time, in addition to rigid fixation, the wires can serve as a free support component.
When constructing external wiring, only black plastic components should be used. The black color of plastic is given by gas soot, which is introduced into the feedstock. This additive is an excellent stabilizer and prevents the decomposition of plastic under the influence of the UV component of sunlight.
A common way to attach a cable to a previously laid one is blunder. This method is directly prohibited by the current rules for professional installation and it is useful to extend it to the domestic area. The reason for the ban is that the design of the fastening element is designed for those masses and mechanical loads of any kind that are typical for a single cable or a group of them of a certain size. If the load is exceeded, the element may collapse.
When installing fasteners such as a single-legged metal bracket or its plastic analogues at the points of flat turns of the cable line, the fastening elements should always be located on one side as shown in the left part of Fig. 14.
Figure 14. Layout of fastening elements for single-leg brackets when turning the cable: left - correct, right - incorrect The frequency of installation of point fixation elements depends on the rigidity of the cable. Based on the provisions of the “Guidelines for the construction of linear structures of local communication networks”, it is advisable to adhere to the values given in the table.
Conclusion.
The process can use a large number of cable fastening elements, cable harnesses and cable route pipes. The choice of a specific fastening method is carried out taking into account the ease of installation, local characteristics of the room, aesthetic parameters of the solution, and fire safety requirements. Both single and group installations are possible. Reliable fastening is achieved by complying with standards regarding the selection of components and monitoring the distance between fixation points.
The choice of accessories that make life easier for craftsmen of all kinds is simply enormous today. The market segment intended for the hard work of electrical installation workers was no exception.
Depending on the method of laying the wires, the fasteners for the electrical wiring also differ. In this article we will try to cover the entire modern assortment, so it will be useful for both working craftsmen and those who prefer to do everything with their own hands.
Having secured it so that later, when plastering or sealing grooves, it will be securely fixed and not interfere? To do this, it is important to remember two rules: place the wires geometrically correctly in the places recommended for this and use reliable fastenings. Which of them are provided for hidden installation, we will look at in this chapter.
This mount is one of the most common. It is quite easy to install and provides reliable fixation, and the price of this product will not greatly burden your wallet. There are several varieties of this fastening, differing from each other not only externally, but also functionally.
So:
How to properly install wiring in the house
Advice! If you decide to use this type of fastening outdoors, make sure that the clamps used are UV resistant. The instructions on the label will clarify this information— most often such ties are black.
The following is a fastening made in the form of a clamp. This design is more durable than a dowel-clamp, since a metal screw is used for spacers, thanks to which, if necessary, the entire structure can be easily dismantled and moved to another location.
The wire is fixed simultaneously with installation to the wall. It is important that the diameter of the cable being fastened clearly corresponds to the diameter of the clamp, which is necessary in order to avoid sagging or squeezing of the wire insulation.
Another type of fasteners is a PP type dowel. It has several varieties, differing from each other in shape and size, which are determined based on the type of wire being fixed.
Installation is similar to the installation pad or “bracket”, the only difference is that the cable is pressed directly against the wall. Also, using this fastening, you can install pipes. If necessary, this connection can be easily dismantled.
If at the right moment you didn’t have a single staple at hand, and the store household goods far away, then do not rush to get upset, because making a homemade analogue will not take much effort and time.
For work you will need: regular dowel-screws or dowel-nails, as well as two-core wire or galvanized iron plates. We cut the wire (iron) into pieces 5–7 cm long. We make a hole in the middle and insert our dowel there. Everything is ready, you can clearly see the result in the next photo.
It is also possible to use single-core wire (wire) - in this case, the dowel must be wrapped with wire at the base of the cap.
A quick-hardening gypsum solution is ideal for fixing the cable in the groove. This method requires a certain skill, since the time before hardening is very short, and you need to work it out very quickly. Therefore, mix the plaster in small portions.
To make the task easier, we will offer one original way to secure the wire before the mixture hardens. If the groove has smooth edges, then use pieces of corrugation that will serve as spring spacers. This is quite enough to hold the cable.
If the electrical work in the house is carried out after renovation, then the open wiring method is used for this. It is simpler to implement, but due to the fact that the wires remain visible, it requires greater care during installation, and the fastenings used here, in addition to the main function, should add some aesthetics.
One of the most comfortable, beautiful and at the same time inexpensive ways open mounting, is fastening using cable channels. It is a rectangular pipe with a removable front panel, which is attached to the wall using ordinary self-tapping screws, dowel screws or nails.
After installation, a group of wires is placed inside and closed with a lid. You can easily choose the one you need color scheme and even texture, thanks to which this mount will discreetly fit into the interior of your room.
There are more complex options, one of which is shown in the diagram above. Most often they are presented in the form of electrical skirting boards. To install such a system, certain qualifications will be required.
This type of connection is intended for fastening cables placed in an additional insulator - a polymer corrugation. Due to its rough appearance, it is most often used in inconspicuous places and technical rooms; it is also perfect for installation outdoors.
To install the clips, use self-tapping screws or dowel screws, and then simply snap the corrugation into them. The resulting connection will be very reliable and practical.
Today, when creating an interior in a “retro” style, they often use the open installation method, which was used at the dawn of the age of electrification, for which modern manufacturers They produce special wires and fasteners. This wiring looks very nice wooden houses.
The cable is fixed using a ceramic insulator, which provides a safe gap between the conductor and the wooden base. During installation, be careful not to overtighten the screw to avoid damage to the insulator.
In the photographs above you can see the types of brackets for direct mounting of wires to a surface. Their installation is simple and intuitive, but due to the danger of direct cable contact with the wall, use this fastener only if the wires are double or triple insulated. Most often they are used to fix television cables.
If you need to secure the wire in places where damage to the surface is undesirable (furniture, tiles), then use mounting pads. They come in various shapes and colors, but they have the same function - you just need to glue such fasteners into Right place, and you can stretch the wire.
How to properly conduct wiring in a house if it is not possible to drill the surface in the places where the cables are located, or if the type of conductor has unusual specifics? To do this, rare, but no less useful installation devices will come to your aid.
So:
The reader who has read this article will probably understand how to properly conduct wiring in a house and what devices will suit him best. However, we strongly recommend that you watch the video presented on this page. Perhaps you will discover something new.
When installing wiring, one of the tasks is correct fastening cable. It shouldn't take much time, but it should be reliable and safe.
Fasteners for the cable are selected depending on the method of laying it and the base material to which the wire will be fixed. Let's start with choosing the material.
All bases are divided into soft and hard, but there are also thin and brittle ones. Soft bases include wood, and plaster can also be included here. If you need to attach the cable to these bases, nails or self-tapping screws are most often used. The process of installing fasteners is known to everyone and does not take much time.
Rigid foundations include concrete, reinforced concrete, and brick. Fasteners with dowels (dowel-nails) are installed in such bases. The process of installing a dowel is longer - you first have to drill holes and insert a plastic plug, only then install the fasteners. But in such materials this is inevitable. Exception - brickwork. If you place fasteners in a seam, you can use nails. But the fastening in this case will not be very reliable.
Brittle bases. This category includes plasterboard and building blocks made of lightweight cellular concrete of any type. For these bases there are special dowels that have large area stop than standard ones. There are also glue-based fasteners for lightweight cellular concrete.
Special butterfly dowels for installation in drywall or foam concrete
Thin bases. These are plastic, fiberboard, chipboard and other similar materials. If you need to secure the cable on such a surface, use thin nails and staples; if there are a small number of conductors, use adhesive-based fasteners. Usually these are small plastic elements with adhesive tape with a protective strip attached to the back side. During installation, the protective strip is removed and the fasteners are installed with glue. It will not withstand heavy loads, but you can organize the wiring harness that goes to the desktop.
Most standard fasteners can be fixed either with nails or self-tapping screws, or with dowels. In accordance with the type of material, its strength and density, choose the type of fastening elements.
There are a few exceptions. For example, U-shaped staples from a construction stapler can only be installed in soft substrates or chipboard, and dowel clips are not suitable for them.
Regardless of the type of fastener chosen, it is worth following simple rules for its location. In this case, the cable fastening will be reliable.
This is all general rules cable fastening. This is not a dogma, but their implementation makes the work easier and guarantees normal results.
At open method gaskets try to use the least visible types of fasteners. Such cable fastening cannot be completely invisible, but it may not attract attention.
We must try to make the cable invisible...
If you have a stapler on your farm, you can fasten a small-diameter low-voltage cable easily and quickly. There are special U-shaped brackets on sale. They are designed precisely for these purposes. There are two types:
There are also special cable cleats with a plastic housing (pictured on the right). They are more expensive, but due to the plastic housing there is less chance of crushing the wires or damaging the insulation.
The brackets can be made of galvanized steel or stainless steel. The legs can be regular or pointed. The second option fits easier even into dense substrates such as chipboard. As you understand, this fastener is not used for serious conductors, but for wired internet, telephone, etc. very convenient.
Fastening cables of different diameters is most often done using staples and clips. They are made from metal and especially durable plastic. Plastic clips are used to secure wires indoors; metal clips can also be used outdoors. The metal can be galvanized or painted, but it is better to find ones made of stainless steel for outdoor use.
The most inconspicuous of the clips are small plastic clips with nails (upper left corner in the photo). They are used if it is necessary to stretch one thread of cable. The work is progressing quickly - I put a nail in place and drove it in. The remaining staples are more noticeable, but stronger and stiffer wires can hold them.
There are also plastic clips for attaching the corrugated protective shell to the wall. There are them in the form of several rulers, and there are one at a time. So you can secure both a single conductor and a group of cables.
The same clips can be used to secure cables suitable diameter. For very hard ones, it is better to use metal staples, and for conductors of medium hardness, these are also suitable. Clips with a lock are good for these purposes (pictured below on the left). They can also be used to secure cables to the ceiling.
There are cable fasteners based on plastic dowels. The plastic used is heavy-duty, so the area of use is not limited - it can be installed in both brick and concrete walls. There are several types:
All these types of fasteners are inexpensive, but do their job well. They are even better to use than with metal nails - there is less chance of damaging the insulation. Since they are inexpensive, they can be used to secure cables in a groove.
When laying hidden in non-combustible foundations, the cables are laid in a special groove cut into the wall. These grooves are called grooves, and the process is called gating or gating. In order for the cable to stay in this groove and not fall out, it must be secured in some way. There are several ways to fix:
If hidden wiring is done in flammable walls - wooden, frame, etc. - according to fire safety requirements, they must be laid in a non-flammable protective shell. The non-combustible shell is either corrugated hoses made of non-flammable plastics, or all-metal boxes. When using corrugated hoses, the fastening method is the same as when fixing the cable. The difference is in the diameters of the required fasteners.
When using metal boxes, they are fixed in the wall, and then cables are laid in trays. This method is more often used in frame housing construction, because sanding channels in wooden walls significantly reduces their heat-insulating properties. In addition, a wooden house constantly changes its size and rigidly fixed boxes can become a problem. When laying wiring in wooden houses, they often use open laying in cable channels or do.
Often when installing electrical wiring it is necessary to lay large quantity cables To minimize the time required to attach large bundles of wires, you can:
A combination of these methods can also be used. When using tape, it is attached along the edges. Due to its rigidity, it holds even hard conductors or corrugated shells well. If necessary, you can install fasteners between the cables, but you must be careful not to damage the insulation.
If there are not very many cables on the ceiling, you can use ordinary fasteners - clamps, ties, clips, homemade clamps, etc. But they are inconvenient to install - you have to work for a long time with your hands raised, and even hold the tool and cable in them. Hard work.
If the ceiling is suspended, the cables can be secured to hangers. In this case, use ordinary plastic clamps (tightenings), which secure the wires above the level of the future ceiling. In order not to damage the sheath or even the cores, it is better to lay the wires in a protective corrugated hose. This will also make the wiring safer from a fire safety point of view.
Large bundles of cables on the ceiling are easier to lay in trays. They are available in wire and metal (solid metal and perforated). In apartments and houses, wire ones are usually used. They cost and weigh less. They are attached to the ceiling with adjustable hangers.
This type of cable fastening also requires the installation of hangers, but the number of fasteners is much less. Another advantage of this method of laying cables is that it is easy to replace or lay new ones if necessary. The downside is that the trays are not very cheap.
More and more equipment is appearing in our homes, and it all has wires. There are often about a dozen wires running to the desktop. To prevent them from getting confused, it is better to organize them. For this there is different types plastic platforms. Some collect wires into bundles, while others, on the contrary, allow each thread to be routed separately.
Some of this cable fastening goes with self-tapping screws or nails, and some is based on Velcro. The second option can be safely installed on furniture. The adhesive adheres well to a laminated or varnished surface and there is no need to make holes.
When laying cables aerially, they must be secured to poles, walls of buildings and other objects. There are fasteners for self-supporting and conventional cables. Ordinary cables cannot be suspended between poles without support - they will not withstand the load and will break. For such conductors, a cable is stretched between the supports and the cable is attached to it on hangers. In this case, the load falls on the cable, and not on the cable. There are any ways to attach a cable, but the most common is to make a loop around a pole and secure the end. For intermediate posts you can use any affordable way- two separate cables, a driven hook, a suitable bracket.
The cable is fastened to the supporting cable using supporting clamps. They come under cables different shapes, sections. It is also possible to use ties made of UV-resistant plastic. Sometimes, to save money, the cable is screwed in with pieces of wire, twisting it. This method is the least reliable - under heavy loads, the twist may not hold the wire, it will sag and break.
For self-supporting cables, the fastening usually consists of two parts - brackets or clamps that are attached to the wall or pole, and clamps that cling to the installed bracket and hold the cables. Clamps are used only on poles. They are especially convenient for reinforced concrete pillars- there is no need to drill holes, which is very difficult.
There are several types of brackets. They are selected depending on the type of base (wooden, steel, concrete, aluminum) and the planned load. By purpose there are:
Suspensions or clamps are attached to the brackets. They are selected depending on the type of cable, its cross-section, etc.
Any office and household electrical appliances actively used by modern consumers are connected to the network using wires. The latter must be safely and correctly placed in a house or building, and then securely fixed, thereby ensuring the durability of their operation.
There are several ways to attach the cable to the wall. The choice of a specific option depends on the characteristics of the room and the type of electrical wiring installation, which can be open or hidden.
In wooden residential buildings and buildings, outbuildings, and car garages, electrical wires are most often laid on top of the existing decorative wall cladding. This technique is called open installation. Fastening in this case is carried out using:
The most popular is the first method of fixing electrical wires. To implement it, cable channels are used, which have an affordable cost and attractive appearance. Their self-installation does not require special skills. All work is carried out quickly and without serious difficulties.
The cable channel is a plastic box of a certain size. It is allowed to lay one or more wires in it. The procedure for this type of fastener is simple:
Then the electrical wiring is placed in a box fixed on the surface and the cable channel is covered with a lid that has special latches.
In wooden outbuildings (baths, barns), porcelain insulators are used instead of cable ducts. They are additionally supplied with a mounting bolt.
Porcelain products are fixed to a vertical surface using self-tapping screws. Then the electrical wires are twisted into a bundle and pulled from above onto the insulator.
Specialized stores sell cables that are initially assembled into one bundle. They do not need to be twisted additionally before use, which is very convenient for home craftsmen.
Fastening the cable to the wall using clips is performed in cases where the wiring is placed in corrugated pipes.
If the vertical base is made of brick or concrete, holes are first made in it with a puncher. Dowels are installed in the drilled holes. Pipes with electrical wires are fixed with clips.
WITH wooden walls everything is much simpler. No holes need to be drilled. It is enough to secure the clip to the selected area using self-tapping screws.
Nail staples are most often used for fixing to walls. electrical cables small cross-section, telephone and television wires, Internet lines. Such fasteners are made of plastic. They are flat and round.
The nails that come with the plastic products allow you to securely attach the staples to the walls. This installation method is ideal for cases where wires are installed above baseboards in an apartment, office or residential building.
If the installation of electrical conductors is carried out under the plaster in special grooves, the wires are fixed differently. Hidden wiring is done through:
Plastic dowel products are characterized by ease of installation, low cost and high reliability. They are designed for installation:
To install the clamp, drill a hole in the selected location on the wall. Drive a dowel into it. Fasten the cable. The screed is mounted in the same way, which is additionally equipped with an expansion peg.
Homemade staples are made of aluminum or galvanized thin steel in sheets. The fastener manufacturing scheme is simple:
Attaching the cable to the wall using brackets does not take much time. The procedure is as follows:
The cable is placed in the center of a self-made bracket. All that remains is to securely fasten it with the ends of a metal blank.
If you don’t want to make holes in the wall, drive fasteners into them, and fix the cables using gypsum or alabaster-based solutions. Water is added to the selected material. Stir the composition. It should have a fairly thick consistency.
The resulting solution is applied with a spatula on top of the cable laid in the groove. The interval between lumps of the mixture is maintained within 15–40 cm. Disadvantages of the technique:
The last method of fixing wires is aimed at the laziest. It involves the use of special Velcro - products, one side of which is equipped with self-adhesive tape. Such designs make it possible to attach cables to furniture (tables, cabinets), tiles and other smooth vertical surfaces.
A variety of fixation options allows self-taught craftsmen to select the best way arrangement of electrical wiring in your home, no matter what material it is built from.
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