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Staircase from profile pipe– 2 best options for home and garden

Square or rectangular hollow metal pipes have long become almost the main material for the construction of lungs frame structures in private construction. The familiar do-it-yourself extension ladder made from a profile pipe is found in almost every dacha.

To weld it from the pieces of material left after the construction of a fence or gazebo, you don’t need a lot of intelligence, weld the crossbars between the guides and use it. Today I will talk about the calculation and assembly of more complex marching and screw structures from the same profile pipe.

What you need to know when calculating any staircase

The calculation of a staircase made from a profile pipe is not much different from the calculation of similar structures made of wood or concrete. Such calculations cannot be called too complicated, the instructions are standard, but you should not neglect the stage of drawing up a drawing or at least sketching a sketch, with laying out all the dimensions and angles.

Calculation of the marching structure

Marching structures are rectilinear structures that do not have smooth bends or turns. There are also stairs with an intermediate turning platform, and if all the flights joining them are straight, then such structures also belong to the flight.

• You should start by measuring the height of the future flight of stairs. This is the easiest way to do it. The flight height refers to the distance between the floor of the lower and upper floors. In other words, you need to add the thickness of the interfloor ceiling to the height of the ceilings;
• In order to make it comfortable to walk on your stairs, you need to clearly calculate the dimensions of the tread and riser. The tread refers to the platform on which we place our feet, and the riser is the vertical distance between the treads. In both cases there is a comfortable operating range, so for the tread it lies in the range of 200 - 400 mm, and for the riser 150 - 200 mm;

• But it is equally important to maintain the correct relationship between the selected values. There are also a couple of formulas to calculate this ratio. I prefer A + B = 470 mm (“A” is the height of the riser, “B” is the size of the tread). In addition to it, there is another formula 2A + B = 640 mm, to be precise, not exactly 640 mm, but from 600 mm to 640 mm;
• The minimum width of a stationary home span starts from approximately 800 mm;
• Once you have calculated the appropriate tread and riser sizes for you, you can already calculate the number of steps (the height of the span divided by the height of the riser) and the horizontal distance from the beginning to the end of the span (the number of steps multiplied by the size of the tread);

With a ceiling height of more than 2.5 m, the horizontal distance (along the floor) from the beginning to the end of the flight starts at approximately 5 m. For small rooms, it makes sense to build a turntable with a rotation of 90º or 180º.

• Now we just have to find out the most important thing. What will be the size of the future stringer made from a profile pipe? The Pythagorean theorem will help us here. For those who have forgotten a little, I remind you that the square of the hypotenuse should be equal to the sum squares of legs (a² + b² = c²). We have two legs, this is the flight height and the horizontal size, all that remains is to calculate the hypotenuse, which is actually our stringer made of a profile pipe;
• There is one more point that must be taken into account when calculating: the angle of inclination of the march. So, according to SNiP, for stairs in residential premises this angle ranges from 23º to 37º. If it’s less, then it’s already a ramp, and if it’s more, then you’ll get tired of climbing those steps.

So that you fool yourself less with all the calculations, in the table below I have collected the most popular parameters of direct marching structures:

When calculating, it is extremely rare to obtain integer, convenient numbers. So, it’s better to round the data up, so it will be easier for you to work in practice.
And the error that remains is compensated by the height of the first stage. Believe me, if it is a little smaller, no one will even notice.

Calculation of a spiral staircase

Choice in favor spiral staircase, is most often done due to a lack of space, although in some cases this decision is caused by the designer’s original idea. The price of such work for professionals is much higher, so it makes sense to calculate and assemble the supporting frame of the staircase from a profile pipe with your own hands. Moreover, this is not much more difficult than working with a straight march.

As in any business, there are 2 ways, for the lazy and for the persistent. If you don’t want to bother with calculations, then you can use a calculator for calculating spiral staircases, of which there are now plenty on the Internet. And for those who are persistent, I will further tell you how this is done manually.

First, let's look at the parameters and notation. By the way, the same notations are used in most electronic calculators.

• “H” is the vertical height of the structure. That is, the height of the ceiling, plus the interfloor ceiling;
• “H¹” is the interturn distance. This should be understood as the distance from the step you are standing on to the step above you. Naturally, this parameter should not be less than average human height, about 185 cm;
• “h” is the height of the tread, this is what we called the riser in the staircase;
• “h¹” - tread size or step depth, as you like;
• "R" - outer radius along the edge;
• “R¹” is the working radius or the one along which a person will climb the stairs;
• “r” is the radius of the central support.

• Along the working radius line, the depth of the tread should be in a range that is comfortable for a person, it is the same as in the case of linear marches of 200 - 400 mm;
• The width of the tread next to the central support must be at least 100 mm;
• The minimum span width is 1 m, but if you are not going to make railings, then this value increases to at least one and a half meters;
• In spiral staircases, the risers are usually left open, this is much more convenient. Compared to marching structures, a slightly larger variation in riser heights of 120 – 220 mm is allowed here.

As in the case of marching structures, you need to start with preliminary measurements. This includes the outer radius of the structure, the height of the staircase and where you plan the entry point and exit point, this is called the angle of twist of the structure. After this, you can start making calculations.

For example, I took fictitious values, you will naturally substitute your own. Let the outer radius “R” = 1000 mm, the height of the structure “H” = 3000 mm, the twist angle ω = 360º, that is, the entrance and exit are located above each other.

With this data we can find the working length of the march “L”, that is, the size of the stairs along the working radius line. It is believed that the working radius is about 2/3 of the maximum. Starting formula L=2πR¹.

Now we find out the number of steps:

• Let the tread size “h¹” be 250 mm, the basic formula is n=L/h¹;
• Therefore, 4190/250=16.79. The number of steps cannot be fractional, so we round up to 17, in addition, our top step coincides with the floor level, as a result we get 16 pure steps.

If we take the minimum size (100 mm) of the tread at the central pillar, then we can fully calculate the dimensions of the entire tread, only for this we will also need to find out the length of the structure along the outer radius “Lext”.

Lext = 2πR = (2*3.14*1000) = 6280 mm. Now we substitute everything into the starting formula.

h¹ = (7536/17) =369 mm

The height of the riser here is calculated in exactly the same way as in the flight span. The total height “H” is divided by the number of steps “n”, resulting in:

h = (H/n) = (3000/17) = 176 mm.

Correction of the ratio of steps is also permissible here and is done according to the same formula as for a linear march, only the designations change slightly.

2h + h¹ = 600 ... 650 mm. After correction we get a riser height of 190 mm.

But that is not all. We still need to calculate the dimensions of the upper exit platform. As you remember, our twist angle is 360º, the height of the riser in our case is 190 mm, the total height is 3000 mm.

In other words, by going up 4 steps, we will lose the height of 760 mm. If we take into account the thickness of the ceiling, then we have about 2m left. Therefore the width upper platform should not exceed the width of 4 treads, otherwise tall people will catch their heads.

Both when designing linear flights and when calculating a spiral staircase, try to ensure that the number of steps is always odd. The fact is that it is subconsciously more convenient for a person to start and finish a movement with one leg.

Assembly of structures

If you can handle the calculations and drawing up a sketch, marking the pipes for the future staircase will not be difficult for you. Therefore, we will go straight to the question of how to weld a staircase from a profile pipe.

Theoretically, of course, such a structure can be assembled using studs and bolts, but, not counting the complications in the calculations, the time and effort required to assemble this staircase will take at least 3 times more.
Plus, this option is not considered absolutely reliable, since the bolts tend to loosen during operation. Therefore, I do not advise you to get involved with such models.

Assembling the march flight

Linear marching structures can be of two types: a staircase based on a powerful, flat profile pipe and various designs with broken stringers.

Designing and welding the first option with a solid, straight pipe is much simpler and takes much less time, but the price of such a structure is slightly higher. This is due to the fact that as a base you will have to buy a square profile with minimum cross-section 100x100 mm, although I recommend taking from 150x150 mm. Such stairs are much more reliable and look better.

In addition, the platforms on which the treads will be attached should not be more than half narrower than these same treads. Consequently, it will be necessary to weld additional metal sheets with a thickness of 3–4 mm, and such an amount of thick, high-quality metal will inevitably lead to an increase in the cost of the project.

As you understand, on a flat inclined pipe, the horizontal treads will need to be secured somehow. Consequently, the sites will have to be welded on. You can do them in two ways.

1. After we have calculated the angle of inclination of the pipe and marked the places where the steps are attached, pre-cut metal sheets are welded horizontally to the base along the entire width of the profile pipe, and wooden treads will subsequently be screwed onto them. But naturally, one horizontal seam cannot withstand such a load, so supports will have to be welded between the sheet and the pipe. These can be metal plates, pieces of reinforcement or profile pipes of a smaller cross-section. As you can see, it’s nothing complicated, but to be honest, this option doesn’t look very nice;
2. I like the second option better, it is simpler and looks more aesthetically pleasing.. The supports for the platforms here are cut from the base profile pipe and sheets for the treads are welded onto them. To do this, mark a cut on it at the calculated angle, take a grinder and. From the side, such a cut will look like a triangle, and from the front side it has the shape of the letter “P”. Further along our cut we weld this support to the base pipe. The diagram shows both options.

Since the entire structure will actually be based on one pipe, the weight there will be serious and there will be colossal point pressure at the junction of the profile pipe with the floor.

In order to distribute it evenly over a larger area and insure against the lateral tipping of the ladder, you need to go to the base of the pipe and the fixation point to interfloor covering weld metal plates with a thickness of 5 mm. The dimensions of such plates should be slightly more area steps.

Now let's look at assembling a staircase based on a broken version of the stringer. In addition to cost, such designs are good for their low weight. After all, they use pipes of a much smaller cross-section.

It is believed that optimal size is 40x60 mm. More is possible, less is not advisable.

Here, as in the case of a straight stringer, you can cook it in two ways:

1. According to the first method, the profile pipe is cut into separate sectors corresponding to the dimensions of the treads and risers, plus a margin for the thickness of the pipe. After which all these pieces are welded together into a finished string. In theory it sounds simple, but in practice there is too much welding work and it is not a fact that you will be able to weld everything smoothly everywhere;
2. According to the second option, everything turns out much more elegant and faster. The idea is to use a grinder to cut out sectors in the form of isosceles triangles from a straight pipe, leaving only one wall intact. After this, we bend the pipe and weld the connection. I have shown what it looks like in the diagram.

As for the plates for support points, for a profile pipe with a cross-section of 40x60 mm it is enough to weld squares of approximately 200x200 mm and secure them to 4 anchors. Although, if possible, of course, it is better to connect two or more broken stringers on a single monolithic plate.

Assembly of the screw structure

Installation here begins with the installation of a central supporting round and preferably thick-walled pipe. The load on it will be serious and here the savings may come back to bite. As I already said, the pipe cross-section starts from 100 mm, this minimum width tread at the base.

Naturally, the pipe itself from below must be based on a thick, reliable platform. If you are installing a ladder at the construction stage, then in order not to spend money on an expensive thick iron sheet, you can weld a cross from the same profile pipes at the bottom. Then wall it all up in a screed.

The supports themselves for the treads can be made of two types. What is it in bearing capacity, and in terms of aesthetic characteristics they have little to show for it. Here it all depends on what section of the profile pipe is at hand:

1. If you have a thin tube 20x20 mm or 30x30 mm, then it is better to weld the frame around the perimeter of the tread, in a closed loop. In order not to measure each arc separately, you should immediately make a pattern from wooden blocks stuffed onto a sheet of chipboard. With such a device, all you have to do is insert the cut tubes into your pattern and “tack” them by welding;

1. There is less hassle with the second option. But it uses profile pipes with a minimum cross-section of 40x60 mm. There is no need to construct any patterns here. Simply cut pipe sections along the working radius of the stairs. At the outer end, in the shape of the letter “T”, weld a piece of the same tube, slightly smaller than the width of the tread, and at the end weld this entire structure to the supporting pipe.

In both the first and second cases, one fixation point on the support is not enough for the step. Therefore, I recommend welding additional support under the step frame. There is no guarantee that you will be able to weld everything firmly and efficiently, and with a support the reliability of the step increases significantly.

Finishing work

Most often, the frame of a staircase from a profile pipe is lined natural wood. According to my observations, it is much cheaper, beautiful and reliable.

When selecting a board for treading, the most important thing is strength, so its thickness should be at least 40 mm. The thickness of the facing for risers and side string, if required, does not have of great importance, since these parts of the staircase carry only an aesthetic load.

Don't forget that you are dealing with metal, and as you know, it can rust. I don't think you're going to spend a fortune on a homemade stainless steel ladder. Therefore, after assembly, you first need to clean it with a file or better than a grinder all welds. After this, degrease or prime the structure and finally apply 2 - 3 layers of good paint.

Many people recommend powder coating the metal. So, things like powder coating or nickel plating of metal can be done exclusively in the factory at professional equipment. At home, you can only paint or varnish the stairs.

Conclusion

For self-made a staircase frame made from a profile pipe fits perfectly. It's much easier than building stairs from wood, plus durability metal structure much higher. In the photo and video in this article it is given additional material for the manufacture of stairs. If your question remains unanswered or you have something to add, write in the comments and we’ll talk.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Metal is reliable and durable material, which serves for decades. With welding skills, you can make a lot of useful things from metal parts. household or garden plot: wall and floor hangers, graceful miniature shelves, coffee table for a gazebo, a multi-tiered flower stand. The pinnacle of craftsmanship is a useful and impressive product - a do-it-yourself staircase made from a profile pipe. Let's consider three options that are suitable for self-production.

Staircase without railings made of metal profile and wood

Advantages of a metal profile

During dacha work or construction, they often use wood: boards, logs, bars, lining, plywood - forgetting about practical metal blanks. Under influence external factors(dampness, wind, temperature changes) easy to process, but having a weak structure wooden crafts crack, dry out, and lose their attractiveness, while properly processed metal retains its performance properties for years.

Profile metal pipes - factory products, differing in shape, length and cross-section parameters

A metal corner is suitable for the construction of lightweight products, but it is inferior to the profile in terms of strength. Under the influence of gravity, a structure made from an angle or channel is deformed, causing its functionality to become unusable. More reliable products can withstand greater loads, so experts recommend welding stairs from a profile pipe.

Here are a few properties that characterize metallic profile How perfect material for the construction of a staircase frame:

• allows you to create a screw, marching or autonomous type of structure, straight and with turns, without much difficulty;
• can be used both in combined structures (with wood, plastic, glass) and alone;
• has wide painting capabilities - there are dozens of solutions for decorating metal surfaces special paints traditional colors and metallic shades;
• the shape and dimensions of the profile are ideal for assembly, which allows you to spend a minimum of time on welding the structure;
• The service life of the finished structure is estimated at tens of years (much depends on the quality of welding).

When making calculations for assembling a staircase from a profile pipe, you will understand that the cost of the structure is small compared, say, with an analogue from natural stone or expensive wood.

Options for self-assembly of stairs

The simplest way check the quality of welding and strengthen your skills in working with a welding machine - make a small device with 7-10 steps, with which you can climb to the roof of a barn, remove apples from trees or paint the walls of a house.

Video: Staircase made of profile pipe

Extension ladder for household work

There are several ways to assemble it yourself ladder from a profile pipe. If you are not familiar with the intricacies of working with a welding machine, the steps can be fixed with bolts and angles, but the welded structure is more durable.

Instead of a ladder, you can make a stepladder - a structure convenient for construction work

So, we need:

• profile pipes 200-250 cm long with a cross-section of 40 mm – 3 pcs.;
• steel plates of similar section – 4 pcs.;
• metal corners– 12-16 pcs.;
• Workbench;
• domestic welding machine;
• a set of 3 mm diodes;
• grinder with metal discs;
• sandpaper(grinder);
• Coatings for metal (paint, anti-corrosion primer).

The structure of the metal staircase is welded from a profile and corners

Before welding a staircase from a profile pipe, you need to cut one blank into several pieces of 30 cm each - you will get steps. Their number depends on the length of the profile: for example, from a two-meter workpiece you will get 6 small sections.

This is what it looks like metal carcass with markings and a set of rungs for an extension ladder

Progress:

• we make markings - on long crossbars we mark welding places, the intervals between marks are 25-30 cm;
• if corners are needed for additional fixation, weld them first;
• In order for the structure to gain stability, we weld the crossbars and the outer steps, thus obtaining a rectangular frame;
• weld the remaining short sections;
• We make the ends of the profile blind - for this we use metal plates;
• we clean out uneven seams;
• primed and coated with special paint.

If you need a longer ladder, use a different profile, for example, with a section of 50 mm. The heavier and longer the structure, the more powerful and thicker the pipe should be.

Spiral staircase to the second floor

Construction screw type used when there is a shortage of space or there is a need for an additional original design element. In the preparation process, you need to purchase a tool: a welding machine with diodes, circular saw, a hacksaw, a file, a sander, a hammer, a tape measure and a marker. The simplest option is a staircase leading to the second floor from a profile pipe in the form of a pillar, to which steps are attached in a spiral.

A spiral staircase to the second floor, assembled from a metal profile and wooden steps, is not only functional and convenient, but also serves as decoration for a house made of brick or wood

A thick-walled pipe acts as a support round section, the length of which depends on the distance from the floor of the first floor to the floor (or ceiling) of the second floor. From the second pipe, with thin walls but a larger diameter, it is necessary to make sleeves, the optimal length of which is 22-25 cm. The sleeves will be strung on support pillar one after another with already welded step frames. Attacks come in various shapes (rectangular, oval), but the most good option- an elongated isosceles triangle, the apex welded to the sleeve.

Interesting design solution– moving the spiral staircase outside and designing the entrance to the second floor from the street

Progress:

• We weld the frames for the steps to the sleeves.
• We string the sleeves onto the central support.
• Install the support post on concrete base, fix it in the upper part.
• We give the steps the desired position, weld the sleeves together.
• To add strength, we connect the steps with metal posts and outside.
• We clean, prime and paint the entire structure.
• We decorate the steps (boards, thick plywood, sheets of metal are suitable).

In addition to the profile, stringers are often used for the installation of screw structures - durable metal beams.

Video: DIY staircase

One-march descent into the cellar

To homemade staircase from the profile pipe to the cellar was durable, stable and convenient, it is necessary to make the correct calculations. Usually adhere to following parameters:

• width – 90-110 cm;
• comfortable tilt angle – 45º;
• distance between steps – 15-20 cm;
• step depth – 30-35 cm;
• railing height – 70-90 cm.

The profile parameters depend on the size of the staircase. You will need thick metal crossbars that will act as stringers, and a profile of a smaller cross-section for welding the frame of the steps.

We assemble the structure in next sequence:

• we cut the profile for stringers and steps into separate fragments;
• we install the stringers in the place intended for them: we fasten the upper part with bolts to the platform or a special crossbar, and concrete the lower part;
• if spans are required, we install gratings (made of metal profiles or thick reinforcement);
• We weld the blanks for the steps to the stringers, maintaining the same interval, and ensuring the parallel arrangement of the metal parts;
• we clean the seams, prime and paint;
• metal or wood sheets For the steps we fasten with bolts.

Profile stairs will last long enough if done accurate calculations. After installing the main parts - the frame and steps - do not forget to enhance the structure with decorative details or decorations for the railings.

Exist various ways design and production of stairs. The choice depends on the style of the interior and the personal preferences of the residents. Quite popular among the many options is a staircase made of a profile pipe. To get this reliable design, you can contact special companies or call a private master. But, if you have the necessary skills, it is possible to make a staircase from a profile using your own efforts, using our instructions.

Advantages of a staircase made from a profile pipe

The design has a number of positive features:

• The ability to create any type of staircase: both a regular marching staircase and a spiral or extension staircase. The values ​​of the bends and angles parameters will not particularly affect the complexity.
• Structures that use metal can be combined using wood, glass, plastic or even concrete to design the steps. This will allow you to select appearance, matching the interior.
• Profile pipes can be easily painted using any color powder method. Today, gold, silver and black with light metallic paints are especially popular.
• High reliability and strength are the undeniable qualities of stairs made from profile pipes.
• Good performance properties, durability. The material is resistant to mechanical and atmospheric influences.
• In order to make a staircase from a profile pipe with your own hands, it will not take much time if you have good welding skills.
• All complex frame elements can be completed without outside help, correct cutting of workpieces is important. The rest of the work is welding the elements.
• Installation of the staircase is easy to carry out at any stage of repair or during construction.
• The cost of the profile is not high. An ordinary family can afford such a frame.

Features of work

When making a staircase from a profile pipe, it is necessary to take into account a number of features:

• The staircase structure already bears heavy loads, and besides, metal is a fairly heavy material, so it is recommended to avoid additional weighting, for example, in the form of concrete steps.

Birch plywood can be used as a material for the steps of a profile pipe staircase, and plastic gratings can be used for railings.

• Anti-corrosion treatment and painting - required condition For metal stairs, and its placement does not matter at all - indoors or outdoors.
• To connect elements supporting structure you can use bolts, but this is not the best reliable option. Classic welding of parts will be safer during operation. But at the same time, it is important to have a welding machine available and do everything with extreme caution. If you do not have welding skills, then it is better to entrust such work to professionals.
• In the case of installing a ladder made of profiled pipe as a fire or emergency ladder, it is necessary to take into account the possibility of the formation of vibration processes. In order to avoid this, despite the strength of the material, it is recommended to reduce the span struts as much as possible or to further strengthen them.

Preparatory work

To determine the need for a material, you need to do small drawing future design, on which the dimensions are indicated. They will allow you to make calculations - the number of steps, the height of the structure, etc.

And of course, any work with metal is not complete without:

• a welding machine and a pack of electrodes for it;
• grinders and metal circles;
• a hammer drill and a set of drills so that it is possible to install fastening crutches;
• hammer and markers with meters.

For a staircase that has a complex structural shape - for example, a helical one or with a turning platform - it would not be superfluous to number all the elements so as not to get confused during the work process.

Materials for the steps are also prepared at this stage.

Making a flight of stairs

Once again, it is worth recalling the loads on the staircase structure. They oblige all work to be carried out correctly and efficiently to ensure safe operation.

A staircase made of profiled pipe may have one or two stringers. This will depend on how wide you want the future product to be. Undoubtedly, large quantity stringers will affect the strength of the stairs, which will lead to additional costs for materials and labor. If you are still planning one load-bearing support, then you can weld additional consoles on the side. This measure will help avoid sagging of the treads when exposed to heavy loads.

Let's consider the most simple design stairs made of profiled pipe.

Stages of work

• The process begins by scalding the contour, the result of which should be the resulting rectangle. We will install a stage on it later.

Steps for external stairs can be made from reinforcement bars. It will cost less than wood and will last longer.

• As a base we will use a profiled pipe with a cross-section of 10x10 centimeters. The advantage over a channel is that its use will reduce possible vibration without additional strengthening measures.
• Guides are made by cutting the profile pipe so that the part at the cut point fits tightly onto the support at one end. The opposite end should be adjacent to the top support. This can be done by welding to both edges of the platform. They will help fixation. If we are talking about a simple flight of stairs, then the floor and ceiling will become such supports.
• In order to be able to install the steps, it is necessary to weld the support frame. Do this between two supports.
• To attach future steps, it is necessary to provide holes on the support frame. The treads are attached to anchor bolts.
• The installation of railings and other attributes is carried out at the final stage, but the places for their fastenings must be prepared in advance.
• The product is painted at the stage when the entire structure from the profiled pipe is assembled.
• If you want to leave a gap between the wall and the staircase structure (usually this is done to make it more comfortable to glue wallpaper or use other materials to decorate the wall), then it is necessary to provide additional reinforcement to the structure. To do this, three crutches are hammered into the wall. The remaining segments of reinforcement can be used as these elements. These crutches must be driven under the main load-bearing inner tube and cook.
• When making an external rack, metal pipes are often used. A platform is welded onto its bottom, and top part cut according to the slope load-bearing beam, then it’s all cooked.

The use of a support pipe will help reduce possible vibration. And it itself can be used in the interior as a support for decorative elements. for example, for flower pots.

• Fences can be mounted on the side of the frame. The material depends only on your taste. This arrangement of fencing will lead to an increase in the working width of the staircase span.

Making a spiral staircase

Its production is somewhat different from the marching one.

Stages of work

• We will use round profile pipes as support. Its length is selected in accordance with the height of the premises in which the staircase is installed.
• To fasten the treads, use a profile pipe of a larger cross-section, cutting it into 23-26 centimeters.

For correct installation steps must be cut perpendicular.

• For fastening, you can use special sealing rings, which are welded into the sleeves and ground.
• You can make a jig as a template (so that the steps are the same). To do this, use a pipe mandrel and wooden slats(can be replaced with pieces of chipboard). They must be glued in such a way as to give the element the shape of a step.

• The frame is assembled by placing sleeves on the central post. The resulting structure is installed on the prepared site, and the lower part of the rack is concreted to ensure greater strength and reliability.

• Next, the steps are set at the required angle and welded together using small racks.
• The steps are laid after the priming is completed and the painted surface has dried.

Making a “Goose Step” staircase

Staircase "Goose step" made of profile pipe

You can make a “goose step” staircase using a profile pipe square section . There are no special instructions for this type of construction. The frame will be a load-bearing stringer, made at a large angle (usually more than 40 degrees).

The difficulty here is only in making the steps, but you can use the creation of a template that will simplify the task a little, eliminating the need to constantly monitor the correctness of the angles.

The seams of the frame must be thoroughly sanded after finishing the welding work. Then a primer is applied using anti-corrosion compounds. After this, they begin painting.

We must not forget that the steps must be mounted on a ready-made painted structure in order to avoid damage to the material of the steps, except in cases where the treads are made of metal.

Any modern construction project involves arrangement flights of stairs connecting floors of a residential building. At the same time, the most technologically advanced materials are used to manufacture the frame of the staircase, which includes profile pipe.

In this article you will learn how to make a staircase from a profile pipe with your own hands, and you will also be able to familiarize yourself with all the advantages of the described design.

Interfloor staircase structures made of pipes look great in the interiors of modern country houses, office premises and other buildings. In addition, for the manufacture of stairs of this class, a metal profile with a cross-section of 60x40 mm is widely used today, the size of which is considered the most optimal.

This choice is explained by the fact that smaller sizes reduce the strength of the structure, and larger profiles make it too bulky and heavy.

Advantages of profile structures

Choosing a profile pipe for arranging a flight of stairs will provide you with a number of undoubted advantages:

• high strength and reliability of structures of this class;
• good performance and durability;
• the use of well-established technologies that significantly reduce time and labor costs;
• the ability to vary the configuration of staircases using modern elements decor;
• quite reasonable price.

Note!

The technologies used in the production of the profile allow it to be painted in any color (by powder coating method). At the same time, you can choose a color that optimally matches the interior of the room you are furnishing.

Note that silver, gold and black colors are currently considered the most fashionable.

We also note that this design provides the ability to prepare a straight march, allowing you to change the direction of its installation by 90 and 180 degrees.

Organization of work

When installing the base (frame) staircase design profile pipes are installed and fixed on the platform in pairs, after which steps from the material chosen by the developer are mounted to them.

The procedure for preparing the staircase frame may look like this:

• preliminary marking and cutting of profile blanks,
• installation of frames for steps,
• production of steps,
• their installation and welding.

Note!

This procedure for organizing work requires the mandatory use of welding equipment, as well as possession of skills in handling it.

Manufacturing procedure

As an example, we invite you to consider the technique of making stairs with steps made of wood and a frame made of profile pipe. The frame base of this design is a profile pipe with a diameter of 60 mm in combination with a corner with a standard size of 40x40 mm.

The process of arranging such a structure includes the following operations:

1. First of all, the required number of steps is calculated, as well as their main dimensions (height and width).
2. After this, you can proceed to pouring a concrete platform, which acts as the base of the entire structure and provides the required angle of inclination. The level of this platform is the zero level on which the first step of the staircase will be placed.
3. Immediately after this, you can proceed to the installation of a profile pipe, which, on one side, is welded to the tabs in the platform, and on the other, attached to anchors tightly fixed in the wall.
4. After this, metal corners are welded to the pipe, all dimensions of which must be maintained with the specified accuracy.
5. Upon completion of the main work, railings (railings), which can be made of either wood or metal, are mounted on the side of the staircase frame.

Design Features

Note that by installing the railing on the side of the supporting frame, you will be able to increase the working width of the flight of stairs. It should also be taken into account that between ready-made design and the wall must leave a passage sufficient not to interfere with the ongoing repair work. To avoid vibrations that sometimes occur when moving along stairs, it is recommended to limit the length of the racks in its spans.

In addition, to make a staircase from profile pipes with your own hands, you will definitely need auxiliary materials, among which the most commonly used are glass, wood, stone and even ceramics. The use of any of these materials not only increases the operational advantages of any staircase structure, but also provides it with a completely modern and attractive appearance.

Note!
Structures of this class are used not only as staircases in multi-story buildings, but also often form the basis of the building’s porch.

Video

A typical metal staircase frame looks like this:

Photo