The main task of renovation in apartments and houses is to bring the walls to normal condition. Just a few decades ago, practically no one had heard of perfectly smooth walls. They leveled it out based on the “at least somehow” principle. The situation can be corrected according to all the rules: delete old plaster and re-plaster along the beacons. This is reliable and correct, but at the same time difficult, expensive and time consuming. It is much easier to use dry methods: level the walls using plasterboard ( plasterboard sheets).
The second problem that is most often solved in the process repair work, is a redevelopment. Old partitions are removed and new ones are installed in their place. Decorative and interior partitions are also installed using plasterboard. This article will talk about how to level and install plasterboard walls with your own hands: photos, videos.
To begin with, it is worth considering cases when there is a need to level the surface of existing walls. There are several options for attaching plasterboard sheets to walls:It is mounted from jumpers and racks, but is attached directly to the wall itself. Too large differences are much more difficult to compensate for; first you will have to look for the most protruding parts on the wall. Then there are two ways: the first is to try to reduce the differences by cramping the most protruding places, the second is to focus on them, laying additional bars everywhere.
The main disadvantage of fastenings on wooden blocks is that if they are used insufficiently dry (with a humidity level above 20 percent), they may “lead” during drying, and therefore the entire structure will become warped. There is also a possibility of wood destruction by fungi and pests. Despite this, some regions prefer this method, since prices for lumber are much lower than for profiles.
The profiles are mounted on special clamps, from which the frame is assembled so that the front part of the lintel and the rack lie in the same plane. Since the gypsum boards are located at a decent distance from the main wall, electrical wiring and communications can be laid between the wall and it. Another advantage of a profile frame is the possibility of installing a sound absorber and insulation. The disadvantage of this option is that without insulation it conducts sounds well: blows on the wall sheathing sound similar to a drum.
In other words, installing gypsum boards with glue. Use “liquid nails” or special mixtures. This method is available if the plane of the walls is relatively flat, with minor differences 2-3 centimeters. Glue is applied to the surface of the walls or sheet (in piles if there are differences, and in strips if the walls are smooth), then the sheet is mounted in place, leveled using a level, secured with supports and wedges.
The latest technology, placing drywall on glue, is the fastest, but it also has disadvantages. There is not glue under the sheets everywhere, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is quite problematic. If you have previously planned to attach something to the wall, install a mounting beam as an additional beacon when setting the level or lay a continuous layer of glue. Then the problem will be solved.Another disadvantage is small differences; the surface is not perfectly flat (a difference of 2-3 millimeters). Between the “pieces” of glue, the gypsum board bends a little. However, this method is great for quickly leveling walls.
So, when gluing a sheet to a wall, no fasteners are required; we will mainly talk about a metal frame. The screws for fastening to wood are exactly the same, they just use special screws for wood.
Purpose of plasterboard sheets and their sizes
A few words about how to lay gypsum boards on walls and what sizes they come in. Standard sizes are: height – 2.5 and 3 meters, width is always 1.2 meters. Sometimes there are “non-standard” ones, a little shorter in length. Small sheets are much easier to work with, but there are more seams that need to be sealed. GKL thickness:
It is often said that nine-millimeter sheets are ceiling-grade. But manufacturing companies do not have such recommendations. Any manufacturer markets thin sheets, such as those used for finishing uneven surfaces.
Bevels are made along the entire length of the edges of the sheet, which are necessary in order to glue the reinforcing tape and seal it with putty. It is the side on which there is a bevel that is the front. It should be turned indoors.
How to join sheetsIf there is a need to join plasterboard sheets in height, try to position the joints so that a long line does not form; they are laid offset or staggered, preferably so that the offset does not exceed 60 centimeters. Long joints are places where cracks form. By moving the seam, with almost a hundred percent probability you will get rid of cracks.
If the wall is sheathed with several layers of plasterboard, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet on top should be installed with a shift of half the width (60 centimeters).
During installation, plasterboard sheets are pressed against the frame and secured using special self-tapping screws with flat heads and screwdrivers. If the frame is metal, use TN25 screws (25x3.5 millimeters), in stores they are called “for drywall.” Color – white or black (more often broken), length – 25 millimeters. For a wooden frame, similar-sized screws with a flat head are selected.
When installing fasteners, it is very important to tighten the self-tapping screw to the required depth: the head should be recessed in the sheet, without tearing the cardboard; it should also be screwed perpendicular to the plane of the sheet, thus reducing the likelihood of damaging the layer of cardboard responsible for rigidity.
When assembling the frame on solid wall the gaps between the posts should not exceed 60 centimeters. Then it turns out that each plasterboard sheet is attached to three verticals: one in the middle of the profile and two along its edges. In this case, the sheet border falls in the middle of the profile.
Having made an indent of 10-12 millimeters from the edge, screw in the screws. They can be shifted or placed above one another. The installation step is 250-300 millimeters. Fastened along the middle profile and along the perimeter.
Another very important point is the height of the installed sheet; it should be 10-12 millimeters shorter than the height from the floor to the ceiling. Such a gap must be left in case of shrinkage, so that the partition or wall has the opportunity to compensate for changes in height without cracks (this is especially true for panel and wooden houses). Perhaps these are all the main points of working with drywall.
First you need to mark the place for the partition. The easiest way to do this is with laser level(laser plane builder). This straight line is applied to the ceiling, floor and walls. If you don't have a laser level, you'll have to use a plumb line and building level (High Quality). Then, using a level, transfer it to the wall. If both lines are vertical on the walls, the connecting straight line should be located strictly above the line on the floor; this is checked using a plumb line. It is necessary to achieve the most perfect match, since the quality of the work depends on this.
Guide profiles are mounted along the intended line on the ceiling and floor. They are marked PN or UW – load-bearing profile. Most often they are fastened with dowels - 6*60 or 6*40 millimeters, the distance between the dowels is no more than 40 centimeters.
PN profile has standard height walls (depth) - 40 millimeters, but can be of different widths 100 mm, 75 mm or 50 mm. The width of the supporting profile will determine how thick the soundproofing material or insulation can be placed there, as well as the thickness of the partition.
Racks are installed in the guide profiles. They are marked PS or CW - rack profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves increase bearing capacity, make it tougher. The width of the rack profile depends on the width of the supporting one; they must be identical. It is between them that the insulation is installed.
The posts are attached to the guides in several ways. The first one is mainly used professional builders. They work with a cutter - a tool that bends and breaks metal to the sides and fastens two parts. During independent repair work with gypsum boards, amateurs attach them to “fleas” (“seeds”, “bugs”) - these are small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom (TEX 9.5). They drill into the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no holes need to be drilled). The racks are secured on each side with two self-tapping screws.
An important point, if you are installing a partition on the ground floor or in a high-rise building, then instead of the ceiling guide and the joint of the rack, apply special film or some other material that will prevent squeaking. During walking, vibration occurs, which is transmitted to the profiles; as a result, the profiles rub and a creaking occurs. In the second option, you need to make the racks one centimeter shorter. It is more correct, since the shrinkage of the house is provided for, and there are no annoying sounds.
The next step is to install the mesh (no more than 60 centimeters). The distance is determined by the width of the plasterboard sheet, which is usually 120 centimeters. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that the sheet is attached to three racks, so there should be 60 centimeters between the verticals. If the gap is still more than 60 cm, but less than the width of the sheet, a vertical profile is also placed between them, or the sheet will sag and wobble in this area. Another important point is that the first rack must be attached to the entire area of the outer profile, therefore the distance should be slightly less than 57.5 centimeters.
It is advisable to strengthen the profile to which you will attach windows and doors. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of the appropriate size. It is secured with self-tapping screws inside the profile. To prevent the beam from twisting, you need to use only dry wood. After the racks are set and secured, the structure is given rigidity using jumpers.
Jumpers are pieces of rack profiles that are installed horizontally. As a rule, jumpers are placed at the height of the junction of two sheets; they must be secured. Otherwise, in increments of 60 to 80 centimeters. If the wall is small, place 80 cm, if small, 60 cm is enough. It is worth noting that the crossbars above the doors are prerequisite when covering gypsum boards. It is also advisable to reinforce them with a wooden block.
After installing all the crossbars, you can begin laying electrical wiring and communications. Preferably everything electric wires install in a corrugated sleeve. If the partition is mounted on wooden frame or in wooden house, it must be made of metal. In houses/apartments made of non-combustible materials, in plasterboard walls on a galvanized frame, the use of polypropylene corrugated hoses made of non-combustible material (marked “NG”) is allowed.
After laying communications, they begin to install plasterboard sheets. They are installed exactly as for cladding. First, on one side, then on the other, a sound insulator or insulation is installed between the bars (profiles) of the frame. Next, the wall is sewn up with gypsum board on the other side. For partitions and walls, conventional insulation is used.
In principle, you can use any other insulation, but the above are considered the most effective.
How to cut drywall?
When covering walls with plasterboard sheets, you will have to cut the sheets, since it is not always possible to install them entirely. To do this, you will need a stationery knife, a long, flat object (rule, level, beam, board, ruler, etc.) and a wooden block. When cutting curved lines, you may need a jigsaw, but there will be a lot of dust. Sequencing:
Unfortunately, not all features of this process can be described; some are better seen with your own eyes. Therefore, we have selected videos that relate to the assembly of the features of working with drywall. Most often, the videos presented relate to the assembly of a frame from profiles. Since this is truly one of the most labor-intensive works, and how smooth the partition and wall will be depends on how correctly the frame is formed.
How to strengthen the racks in the partition?
This is a non-standard way of assembling the frame, but the racks are really rigid. This method must be used if you are building a full-fledged partition between rooms from gypsum plasterboard, in which case reinforcement will definitely not be superfluous. The downside is that it will take much more time, and the price of such a frame is higher.
Which profile is better: corrugated or smooth?
On the market there is various models profiles, including those with rough sidewalls and walls. With the same thickness of metal, it is stiffer. How good he really is, look at the video.
Installation of interior partitions made of plasterboard seems to many to be a complex process, accessible only experienced craftsmen. By following our step-by-step instructions, you can easily install interior partition with your own hands, without any special skills.
Drywall is one of the most convenient materials for installing interior partitions.
Benefits include:
A Few Basic Steps detailed instructions and a minimal set of tools will allow you to create a simple plasterboard partition with your own hands.
Before you begin installing the partition, you need to carefully consider its design, operational functions, and design. To do this, do detailed drawing rooms with a future wall.
If necessary, visit local BTI authorities to approve the project.
Empty the room as much as possible from furniture, or cover it with film.
Decide what material you will make the frame from. The base can be metal or wood. Metal profile - convenient and reliable option, Unlike wooden beam, does not require drying to prevent deformation twisting, or treatment with antiseptics. The profile is resistant to moisture, fungus, and mold.
Think in advance about all communications passing through the partition, wiring, and the position of sockets.
You will need 12.5mm or 9.5mm drywall. 12.5 mm sheets are most often used. You can also use the “nine”, provided that the profiles are arranged more frequently. However, keep in mind that in this case the sound-absorbing and vibration-resistant properties of the structure are reduced. Also, to install a partition in a room with high humidity, it is recommended to use GKLV (moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets).
A sealing tape is placed at the joint between the profile along the contour of the partition and the enclosing structures.
Starting (guide) profiles and rack profiles are used:
When the partition requires special strength, in the case of hanging shelves or cabinets on it, you should purchase reinforced profiles instead of racks, or strengthen regular profiles with embedded wooden blocks.
When creating an opening in a frame, we recommend using timber embeds that need to be inserted into the cavities of the frame profiles. The beams should be dried, slightly less in thickness than the profiles. So, for example, a 9.5 cm beam is inserted into 10 cm metal racks.
Surface Mounts:
Sound and thermal insulation materials(if desired) are placed inside the partition. Good sound insulation is provided by dense mineral wool mats, while polystyrene foam is clearly not suitable for this.
And also prepare your tools:
Once everything is ready, you can begin building the structure. This work consists of two main stages:
Before installing the metal frame of the structure, use a pencil level to make appropriate marking lines on the floor, ceiling and walls. IN in this case, it is most convenient to use a level. Also mark the placement of vertical profiles in 600 mm increments.
Pin on outside guide profiles and sealing tapes.
Then screw them with the grooves up along the perimeter using self-tapping screws and/or dowels (depending on the surface material). The fastening step is 40-50 cm. If the walls or ceiling have significant differences or surface curvature, level them using pads or wedges.
When installing the frame, you must first provide an opening for the interior door.
Form the frame for the door in the following sequence:
In the grooves of the ceiling and floor starting bars insert the posts every 60 or 40 cm (the smaller the intervals, the stronger the structure). You can set it at 120 cm, but such a partition will be extremely fragile, decorative, and is unlikely to be suitable as an interior partition with a doorway.
Before screwing the rack profiles to the guides, attach a plumb thread to the opposite walls to adjust the level and, making sure that the structure does not have bends/distortions, secure the racks.
To create stiffening ribs, in places where the horizontal joining of plasterboard sheets will take place, install jumpers from the profile. To do this, cut off pieces of the profile with metal scissors and secure them to the posts. This is usually done before installing gypsum boards, but it is easiest to install them after covering one side of the partition.
Before installing the first sheet, it is necessary to note the accuracy of its fit to the wall and, if necessary, cut it to the shape of the wall (if it has a level difference). Difficulties should not arise with the covering of partitions of complex shapes, especially with inclined planes or shaped elements.
If the ceiling height is greater than the length of the plasterboard, the sheets are laid in a checkerboard pattern. The easiest way is to secure all the whole sheets first, in the first row from the floor, in the second from the ceiling, and so on, alternating. After this, pieces are cut to completely fill the surface of the partition.
The gypsum board fastening step at the edges is 20-25 cm, in the middle you can make gaps of 30, but the same 20-25 cm is more convenient, since most manufacturers put a marking line on the sheets taking into account this distance, which is very convenient for beginners. The screw heads should not be deeply recessed into the sheet or left sticking out on the surface. It is better to make it flush with the heads slightly immersed. It is not recommended to twist screws into the edges/edges; make an indent of 2 cm.
When installing one side in the frame cavity, heat/sound insulating materials can be fixed.
ATTENTION! You should not trim gypsum boards with an angle grinder, as beginners often do, the room will be covered with white dust, and the edges will look torn and sloppy. It is enough to cut the cardboard on both sides along the dividing line, slightly pressing a construction knife into the plaster, and then break the sheet, resting along the cut line on the flat edge of the table or placing a thick board under it. advice from professionals regarding working with drywall will also help
Basic rules for installing gypsum boards:
That's all. The partition remains to be puttied and covered with any suitable finishing material.
When arranging your home, it often becomes necessary to erect new partitions and interior walls. This could be a full-scale redevelopment, or a desire to split an existing room into two parts or to form rooms in a new building, which is made into a single space. For the construction of new internal partitions plasterboard and metal profiles are used. This material it is so convenient and easy to use that it is possible to build plasterboard walls with your own hands without even resorting to anyone’s help. However, despite the above statement, in the process of forming walls from gypsum plasterboard there are many nuances that should be taken into account. This is the only way to achieve a reliable and durable design.
First, let's decide what we need to build a wall from materials and what tools we need to work with.
To ensure the strength and correct configuration of the wall, a frame should be initially erected. It is executed from metal profile, which is specially designed for drywall and a number of accessories for its installation.
The profile of two main standard sizes is mainly used:
In addition, for each standard size there are profile options such as support (C) and guide (U). The guide option is a simpler option U-shaped profile with smooth walls, a support profile is inserted into it at the end. The support profile, in addition to the U-shape, has a special ribbing made by pressing to obtain greater bending rigidity.
As a result:
To build a simple partition with a width of 50, 75, 100 mm, only CW and UW profiles are used. For wider walls with communications, the CD and UD profiles are used, and two parallel guides are mounted on each side of the wall at the required distance.
To secure the profile to the frame you will need a straight hanger and a universal connector (crab). You can do without the latter. The elements must be twisted using flea screws with a “drill” tip and self-tapping screws for fastening drywall to metal with a countersunk head and a piercing tip (3.5x35 mm). In the course of describing the technology for constructing a plasterboard wall, it will become clear how many screws of each type are needed. To secure the entire frame to the main walls, you will need plastic dowels with impact screws.
Plasterboard sheets for wall construction are selected with a thickness of 12.5 mm, always with a wide chamfer on the sides. If the wall is formed in the kitchen or bathroom, then moisture-resistant gypsum board is selected. They can be distinguished by color, because moisture resistant sheet- green, regular - gray.
As a result, you will need to build a wall:
plasterboard, CD, UD, CW, UW profile, wooden beam or AU profile, screws, dowels, sealing tape, mineral wool, metal corner.
If you do not fully understand the specifics of the types of profiles, read about their designations and differences.
You will need the following set of tools and measuring instruments:
So, with the assignment of profiles and the choice of tools completed, you can begin planning and placing the future wall. The floor and adjacent walls to which it will be fixed new wall, must be at the stage immediately before finishing, that is, the floor is level with a screed, the walls are plastered. For example, consider the formation of a wall from the UW, CW profile. On the floor we mark the placement of the future wall. The following points are taken into account:
Having decided on the first line on the floor, you can transfer it to the ceiling and walls. A plumb line is used for this. If you can use a laser level, this will greatly simplify the task.
Important:All profiles that are attached directly to the floor, ceiling and existing walls are mounted using a sealing tape between it and the supporting surface. The first to be fixed are the UW profile guides to the floor and ceiling. They are secured with dowels and impact screws every half meter and along the edges.
Support posts made of CW profile are attached to the edges of the guides. Also, racks are installed in places where a door or window opening will be formed, which are necessary during construction interior wall from plasterboard. It is best to attach the profiles first to the bottom rail. Then it is threaded into the upper guide and installed strictly vertically in level. Only after this is it fixed to the upper guide. When positioning these profiles, allowance is made for covering strips of plasterboard over the profile. Profiles are installed front side inside the opening. The racks are secured to the guides using flea screws.
The structure of a plasterboard partition.
Support profiles around the perimeter of door and window openings it is necessary to strengthen it with wooden blocks, which are inserted inside the profile and secured with self-tapping screws. The bar is selected according to the width of the profile. If an AU profile is used, then you can do without bars.
The next step begins the installation of vertical CW support profiles along the entire length of the frame. The first profile from the adjacent wall is installed at a distance of 550 mm, all subsequent ones are strictly at a distance of 600 mm from each other, measuring the distance from the middle of each profile. The vertical installation of the profiles must be checked.
In order to mark the top of the doorway and the horizontal edges of the window openings, the same UW guide profile is used. A piece of profile is cut 30 cm larger than the width of the opening. On the front side, on the bend of the side bends of the profile, marks are placed at a distance of 15 cm from each edge. The distance between the marks is equal to the width of the opening. The profile sides are cut at an angle of 45 degrees, starting from the edge of the profile to the mark and to the base of the profile. After this, the edges of the profile are bent, and a U-shaped structure is obtained.
The resulting blank is placed with its bent edges onto the posts on the sides of the opening and raised to the required height. It is secured using self-tapping screws, which screw the edges of the profile to the posts. The resulting oblique ears, which formed on the main horizontal part of the workpiece, are also screwed on. The perimeter of window openings is formed in the same way.
This completes the formation of the frame. You can proceed to the process of fixing the drywall sheets. The sheet sizes are standardized: 1200x2000 mm, 1200x2500 or 1200x3000 mm. In most cases, ceilings in residential areas are higher and are at least 2.75 m, so one sheet of height may not be enough. Small strips of drywall will need to be added.
The first sheet that will be installed close to the edge, most often to the adjacent wall, must be removed from the side chamfer. To do this, a strip 50 mm wide is cut along its entire length on one side.
Result of work
An ordinary construction knife with replaceable blades. The sheet must be placed on a flat, hard surface. Mark the cut line with a pencil and make an incision with a knife. upper layer cardboard After this, the sheet is shifted along the cut line to the edge of the support and carefully broken. Having returned the sheet to its original position, it turns on its edge and bends. The cardboard is also cut on the second side, but not all the way through. By turning the sheet over and moving it to the edge of the support, you can finally chip it off.
To provide a gap that can be properly sealed later with putty, a bevel is formed on the cut edge of the sheet with an inclination of 22.5 degrees or close to it. A special plasterboard plane is used for this. Also, a chamfer is made on the edge of the sheet that will be adjacent to the gypsum board strip located above or below the sheet.
Attach the sheet to metal frame should be done using 3.5x35 mm self-tapping screws. The edges of the sheet are secured first, followed by the edges and the midline. For this purpose, there is a special marking marking the position of the screws every 250 mm. The distance between the screws can vary from 10 to 25 cm, but no more. The screws are screwed in so that the caps go slightly deeper into the plasterboard and do not stick out above the wall level.
Important: The sheets are secured at a distance of 10-15 mm from the floor. This is necessary to ensure the integrity of the structure during operation.
Having secured the first sheet, the remaining distance to the ceiling is measured and the corresponding piece of plasterboard is cut off. It is also chamfered on the sides where it will dock to the bottom or top sheet and to the ceiling.
Subsequent sheets are installed entirely without chamfering and in a checkerboard pattern. That is, after the first row, a whole sheet of drywall is installed under the ceiling, and the missing part is installed below. Thus, one side of the wall is sheathed.
Before covering the second side, you can lay the wires if necessary. To pass through the rack profiles, holes of 35 mm in size are made in them, strictly in the middle of the profile at the required height. It is advisable that the edges of the hole be concave to one side and bent so as not to subsequently damage the wires. The wires are mounted in accordance with the requirements in a corrugated pipe.
Mineral wool is used for this. This will make the plasterboard wall less transparent to sound, because without soundproofing all the noise from one room will be heard in another. It is easier to use a rolled version of this material with a width of 600 or 1200 mm. The second option is cut in half lengthwise. The cotton wool is placed tightly between the rack profiles without gaps. There is no need to secure it further. For reliability, you can form horizontal lintels from wooden beams along the width of the wall, on which mineral wool of a shorter length than the height of the ceilings will rest. This method is suitable for places where there is a risk of moisture getting inside the wall. However, sufficient ventilation of the interior must also be ensured.
After this, you can sheathe the second side of the wall. After the second side of the wall is sheathed, you can begin filling all the end surfaces.
Between the sheets of plasterboard there is a distance of 100 mm formed by chamfers, which is slightly recessed. The joints are glued with serpyanka mounting mesh and compared with general level walls with starting putty. Finishing putty is applied to all places where screws are installed or to the entire surface, especially if the wall will subsequently be painted or pasted over. thin wallpaper. Using abrasive mesh and a trowel, the putty layer is finally leveled. After this, the wall is ready for cladding with any suitable material.
In new apartments with a large area and in old apartments with an outdated layout, there is a desire to remodel the premises for yourself. From one large room you can always make two smaller ones. For these purposes, interior partitions made of plasterboard are used. They are effective solution in this situation due to its lightness and ease of installation. Also, their construction does not need to be coordinated with anyone.
Such partitions can be used to divide a nursery where children of different sexes live. Or the living room can be turned into two bedrooms. Regardless of the situation, the process of erecting plasterboard partitions in a room will be the same.
Any design must have a number of positive qualities so that it can be used in practice. Let's consider what advantages plasterboard partitions used in an apartment room can provide.
Having decided on the need to use partitions to divide the space in the room, you should understand the tools and materials that will be required for the work.
Of course, drywall comes in number one. Typical used wall plasterboard 12.5 mm thick. The sheets have a standard width of 1.2 meters and lengths of 2.5 and 3 meters. There are other parameters, but these are standard. It is better to take shorter sheets, as they are easier to carry into the house. You can take fire-resistant sheets (they have cardboard Pink colour). In this situation, they will be appropriate if the children's room is divided, and power cables will be laid in the partition itself.
Soundproofing material is fixed thanks to metal profiles An interior partition made of plasterboard with sound insulation will allow your roommates to comfortably listen to music, watch a movie or have a quiet conversation. Since the room is divided into two parts, the use of soundproofing materials is necessary. They are installed in a metal frame.
Various profiles that can be used to assemble the frame
To assemble the frame you will need metal profiles. The standard length of such profiles ranges from 3-4 meters (shorter ones are more convenient, since it is easier to bring them into the apartment without cutting or bending). What profiles may be needed?
Installation of interior partitions made of plasterboardinvolves creating a frame from profiles. But which profiles to take, because I have them all different size? It is necessary to select the size so that the rack profile fits tightly into the guide. We need to look at this first. Otherwise, if you take 28x27 mm guides and 50x50 mm racks, you won’t be able to assemble anything. If a 50x40 guide profile is used, then 50x50 mm racks will be just right.
To attach all the elements of the interior partition from gypsum plasterboard you will need:
In addition to the fasteners, you will need special tools for the job. Without them, installation of a plasterboard interior partition will not be possible. Such tools include a screwdriver, drill, level, plumb bob, tin snips, construction knife, hammer and tape measure. However, this list is not complete or mandatory. Some tools will not be needed, but others may come in handy instead (hole saw, cutter, hammer cord, hammer drill, edge plane, etc.).
When the partition for dividing the room is assembled, it will need to be prepared for finishing. For these purposes you will need:
The quality of the partition depends on the correct layout of the room. It is necessary to decide on the place where the partition will go. Using a laser level, lines are drawn on the ceiling, walls and floor. If it is not there, then you will need to draw the first line on the ceiling. To do this, you will need a water level and a long ruler (guide profile).
Using a plumb line, the extreme points of the line on the ceiling are transferred to the floor. Now there are two points on the floor, between which another line is drawn. You can use upholstery cord. Next, the only thing left to do is to draw lines on the walls in a similar way, focusing on the mark that is already on the floor and ceiling.
When you assemble interior partitions from plasterboard with your own hands, they usually have a doorway, although not always. The space under the doorway also needs to be marked in order to know where to place the profile on the floor and where to insert additional racks with mortgages.
The interior partition should not rest against the window The base of the frame is assembled from guide profiles that are attached along the perimeter of the future partition. It is most convenient to start from the ceiling. The guide is pressed against the ceiling and a hole is drilled using a drill. Then a dowel is hammered in, which presses the guide to the surface. The fastening pitch is 0.5-1 meter, depending on the upcoming operational loads. Perhaps only a couple of hangers will be hung on the partition, or maybe it will be tiled and several massive shelves for books will be attached to it.
Don't forget to use sealing tape wherever the profiles come into contact with any surface. Thanks to this, the soundproofing characteristics of the partition are improved.
The rest of the profiles are attached to the ceiling in the same way as the guide. It is not necessary to join them together in the corners. Still, the drywall in the corners cannot be secured with self-tapping screws. Now the perimeter of the future partition made of metal profiles and drywall is ready.
Location of profiles in the frame It is necessary to insert racks to strengthen the structure. They are inserted in increments of 40 to 60, depending on how the drywall sheets will be attached later. The fact is that the joints of the sheets must fall on the profile. Typically, racks are installed in increments of 60 cm with the expectation that the entire structure will be additionally reinforced with jumpers.
The studs should be installed sideways so that drywall can be attached to them on both sides. In other words, the ribs of the rack profile must run parallel to the plane of the frame.
When assembling an interior partition from plasterboard with your own hands, it is important that the gypsum board lies flat on the frame. Therefore, the racks are attached to the guides using special tool cutter. If it is not there, then use small metal screws. Screw in two screws in each place where the rack profile enters the guide (a total of 8 screws for each rack). However, the caps stick out a little, which is why the drywall also does not lie perfectly flat.
Jumpers make the entire frame more durable If the vertical posts were installed in 40 cm increments, then you can do without jumpers. If the pitch is 60 cm, then you need to install several horizontal jumpers for greater durability designs. Simply cut a profile from guides that are mounted horizontally between the vertical posts. The fastening step is 50-60 cm. The jumpers are also fastened with “bugs” or using a cutter.
Jumpers can be specially installed in places where future shelves are attached to make their installation even more reliable. You can insert a wooden beam into such a jumper if you plan to hang something massive on the wall.
Depending on the thickness of the interior plasterboard partition, you can choose how to fill the resulting void. The thickness is the sum of the width of the guide and two thicknesses of the gypsum board. The width of the guide is the same as the height of the rack profile (not to be confused with the length) and is selected individually by each person. This width gives a certain emptiness inside the partition.
You can assemble two frames for partitions at a distance of 10-20 cm from each other. They are then covered with plasterboard, and a thick partition is obtained. This step is taken when they are going to place a lot of things inside such a structure.
There is enough space inside the structure to stretch the power cable to connect an outlet or wall lamp. Such cables must be corrugated for fire safety purposes.
Soundproofing material must not be subject to combustion In most cases, the cavity is filled with soundproofing material. Therefore, vertical racks are often installed in increments equal to the width soundproofing material. Then it fits without the need for additional trimming and does not tilt to the side. Soundproofing of interior plasterboard partitions should be carried out after one side of the structure is sheathed with plasterboard.
Soundproofing material fits comfortably into the grooves of the upper and lower profile. It will rest against the back of one post profile, but will fit well into the intercostal space of the second post. For this reason, the racks are placed so that they all face the same direction. Some people prefer to install two posts back to back so that the soundproofing fits into them and does not rest against anything.
Horizontal jumpers also serve as additional fixation for sound insulation. Although this is not all that critical, because everything will ultimately be pressed down with sheets of drywall.
It is worthwhile to dwell separately on those cases when it is necessary to install a door in interior partitions. We will not consider the process of installing the door itself, but we will focus on how to correctly make an opening for this very door.
Interior door not so heavy as to damage the partition structure Before you make an interior partition from plasterboard, you need to decide where the door will be located. After calculating the doorway, the points where it will be located are marked on the floor. It's not just the width that needs to be taken into account door leaf, but also herself door frame Therefore, calculations are carried out carefully.
The floor profile is laid on both sides up to the doorway. A rack profile is inserted into each end of the guide, which goes all the way to the ceiling. Between these two profiles there will be a doorway. To indicate the height of the opening, a horizontal jumper is installed between the two profiles. All actions are carried out using a level, because errors here are especially dangerous.
Nessesary to use wooden blocks, which are inserted into the racks and jumper. They must fit tightly into the profile, after which they are fixed with self-tapping screws. The upper jumper is additionally fixed with nails, two of which are driven into its end. The resulting doorway, although it came out of a metal profile, was reinforced with wooden blocks.
When the frame of the interior partition is ready, then it’s just a matter of small things, because there is nothing complicated about covering with plasterboard.
The resulting interior partition cannot remain in this form. It should be prepared for finishing.
Self-tapping screw caps do not require preliminary priming All self-tapping screw heads must be puttied. The joints between sheets of drywall are first primed and then puttied. At the same time, priming makes sense only if the edges of the sheets have been chamfered. Using a primer will improve the adhesion of the starting putty to the gypsum board surface. After applying the putty to the joints, you need to use a serpyanka, which will prevent the putty from cracking in these places in the future. The corner parts of the interior partition must be puttied and reinforced with a special reinforcing corner.
When the putty dries, you will need to treat it sandpaper to remove lumps and sagging that could have formed during the work. After this, the entire plasterboard interior partition is primed and puttied. Second layer if necessary finishing putty can also be treated with sandpaper.
Now the interior partition can be painted or covered with wallpaper of your choice.
A partition constructed from plasterboard makes it quite easy to divide one room into the required number of rooms. Because this work is no different great complexity, anyone can do it House master with a minimum of basic skills.
For a partition built from plasterboard (GCR) for the purpose of zoning a room, first of all, you will need gypsum board sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm or more. Sheets of thinner thickness may be useful for sewing curved areas, if any.
The price of one sheet of gypsum board measuring 1200x2500mm and 12.5mm thick starts from 100 rubles and depends on the brand and type of material.
Types of drywall that can be used as part of a partition
To form the frame you will need the following metal profile elements:
Appearance of the guide profile
Elements of the rack profile are equipped with special bends
This is what the corner profile elements look like
The design of the arched profile makes it easy to give it the required shape
Lighthouse profile T-shaped configuration
All of the listed elements are sold in lengths from 2.75 to 6 m. It must be remembered that their thickness affects the strength of the finished partition and, naturally, the price.
To achieve the required level of strength, you should consider the design of the partition, which at the same time will allow you to determine the required quantity starting materials. The design diagram is carried out to the required scale. It reproduces the dimensions of the future partition and reflects the placement of drywall sheets. A horizontal jumper must be planned at each joint.
An example of a drawing of a partition created from plasterboard
The number of racks and their location is determined by the likely load that will be applied to the future wall.
Those places where it is planned to hang furniture structures or decorative elements must have additional reinforcement.
Frame installation process
To complete the work, you should prepare the following materials and tools, some of which we have already talked about earlier:
Work begins with markings applied to the floor, walls and ceiling. The elements of the guide profile are fixed along these markings with preliminary laying of a sealing tape under them.
The first rack is placed directly against the wall, and the rest are installed in increments:
The racks are fastened to the guides using a cutter.
Covering the frame with plasterboard
Fixation of gypsum boards is carried out using self-tapping screws having a length of 25 mm, and their installation should be carried out according to a previously developed scheme. Self-tapping screws are screwed in at the edges of the sheets in increments of 150-200mm, and in the middle - 300mm.
Having sheathed one side, cotton wool or polystyrene foam and the necessary communications are placed in the partition. After this, the second side is covered.
If there should be a door in the partition, then work must begin by arranging the doorway.
The best option is to install a wooden beam into the cavity profile elements, forming a doorway. The timber is fastened to the profile using screws.
Doorway created using wooden beams
If the use of wooden beams is not possible, then the supporting post can be strengthened using a guide profile.
Having completed installation, the plasterboard partition must be prepared for exterior decoration. For this:
After this, the entire surface of the gypsum board sheets is puttied and sanded. Upon completion of all the above operations, the partition is completely ready for the type of finishing that will allow it to fit into general interior apartments.
From the above, we can conclude that it is quite possible to equip a plasterboard partition on our own. To make this task easier for you, we suggest watching the following video:
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