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» Installation of lining: instructions for installing wooden panels and caring for them (80 photos). Rules for fastening eurolining How to install eurolining and what fittings are needed

Installation of lining: instructions for installing wooden panels and caring for them (80 photos). Rules for fastening eurolining How to install eurolining and what fittings are needed

Eurolining is a fairly popular finishing material in Russia. According to their own technical specifications it is ideal for any living space. This material is a lining made of wood, which is produced according to European standards. Eurolining is different greater durability to moisture and at the same time easy to install. We also note that this material is environmentally friendly and allows you to hide unevenness on the walls without the use of putty and other materials. In addition, the lining makes the room visually larger. But how to properly attach eurolining to the wall and ceiling? Let's look at it in our article today.

Preparation of material

Before attaching the eurolining, you need to prepare the material. Although it is more resistant to moisture, it is still recommended to further protect the coating. For this it is processed by special means, which prevent rotting and mold development. After this treatment, the boards need to be dried and brought into the room where the finishing will be done. What is it for? The lining is brought in to adapt the material. This will prevent shrinkage. Also, before installing eurolining in a bathhouse, for example, you need to decide on the type of lumber. It is divided into several groups:

  • Premium Has exclusively flat surface.
  • A. There may be up to two knots on each linear meter.
  • B. A couple of resin pockets and knots are allowed.
  • C. This is a low quality material with many through holes.

Lathing

Next comes the sheathing. It will serve as a frame for attaching the lining. This sheathing is made from wooden slats. They are directed in accordance with the chosen option for laying the material. When laying horizontally, it is required vertical arrangement slats and vice versa.

Using self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws, you need to secure the boards tightly to the wall. It is necessary to maintain a step of half a meter. When installing each board, you should measure the structure building level. Experts recommend leaving a gap between the underside of the lining and the wall for ventilation. This will extend the service life. Some people maintain this gap for insulation. The latter is usually mineral wool. The gap can be adjusted by the thickness of the board, which is used for the frame. The sheathing itself must also be treated with a protective antifungal agent. But this operation is not performed if steel profiles are used instead of slats. They are installed in the same way, using self-tapping screws.

As for the method of finishing the ceiling, most often experts use frame method. There are special requirements for the ceiling. The roof must be durable, without cracks or tears. Otherwise, the wood will rot. How to attach eurolining to the ceiling? Laying technology of this material practically no different from the walls, except that the joint between the latter and the ceiling is covered with a baguette. This way we will give the structure an aesthetic and complete look.

Types of fastenings

Before attaching eurolining to the wall in a bathhouse or in another room, you need to choose the method in which the material will be mounted to the sheathing. The lining itself looks like a plank. There is a groove on one side and a tenon on the other. The latter is inserted into the groove of the next board. There are several mounting methods:


But no matter what method is used, you should work carefully so as not to damage the board. It is fragile and may crack during installation. The lining must not be allowed to split.

Installation using self-tapping screws

Typically this technology is used in cases horizontal laying. Sheathing begins at the top or bottom of the wall. But it is important that the starting surface is as flat as possible. For fastening, a drill is used to make a hole in the board on the tenon side. The drill must have the same diameter as the self-tapping screw. As for the depth, it is enough to make a hole of 9 millimeters.

Installation is carried out according to the following scheme:

  • The board is applied to the place where it needs to be secured.
  • The correct position of the element is checked by the building level.
  • Using a drill, holes are drilled through the tenon into the sheathing.
  • Self-tapping screws are screwed into both edges.
  • The remaining (central) fasteners are only screwed in halfway. This way we will ensure an even fit of the lining. Next, all the screws are screwed in until they stop.

This is a simplified assembly method that can produce high-quality results.

Nuances

But there are also some disadvantages of the method. First of all, you need to know how to work with self-tapping screws. If handled carelessly, they can easily split the eurolining. Also, a similar fastening method is not used in the loggia, since the horizontal arrangement of the boards visually reduces the height of the already small room.

Staples

This method is more complex and requires experience with a tool such as a construction stapler. How to properly fasten eurolining in in this case? Here you need to start working from the top. So the lining is applied to the sheathing and its position is measured using a building level. Adjust the board according to it. Staples are driven into the tenon at an angle of 45 degrees. If you use the stapler correctly, there will be no difficulties in attaching the boards. The staple will go into the tree as much as possible.

Among the disadvantages this method It should be noted that there is a need for a special tool (in this case it is a stapler, which not everyone has in stock and is quite expensive). But at the end we get a secret fastening. Externally, the coating will appear clean, without foreign objects.

Nails

How to attach eurolining to the wall using this method? To do this you need to use galvanized nails. The installation method is practically the same as described above. However, the use of nails requires a hammer. It allows you to completely recess the cap. Without this tool, it will be difficult to drive the next board into the groove onto the nailed tenon.

What are the advantages this method? Here you get the most hidden fastening possible. The result is a beautiful wood surface. Sometimes the nails are installed not in the tenon, but on the board itself. But this method is not recommended for living rooms. This can only be done in utility rooms and other utility rooms.

We use a dowel

How to fasten eurolining using a dowel? You need to start installation only from the floor. The dowel represents wooden product cylindrical shape. It is used to hide technical finishing details. Today, a dowel can be used to cover the screws that secure the bottom plank from the floor. In this case, the starting eurolining is mounted with the tenon facing upward. It is fastened with self-tapping screws or staples so that the visible fasteners are covered with a groove next lining. As for the topmost board, it is also fixed and covered with a dowel. The latter is cut off or polished at the end of the work.

Among the disadvantages of this method, it is necessary to note the need to process the dowel after facing. This does not need to be done using other methods. Among the advantages is a smooth surface without metal inclusions. Experts also say that this method is the most practical among others.

We use clamps

This method is used for thin eurolining, since the clamps cannot withstand heavy loads. They are an improved steel bracket.

How does installation take place in this case? Installation must begin from the ceiling. The first lining is attached using self-tapping screws. Again, it is important not to split the part when screwing it in with a screwdriver. Then the board is closed with a dowel. The clamps are located on back side thorn. To go in the right direction, it is screwed to the wall. Then the new one is driven with a groove to the first board and this process is repeated, screwing the clamp.

What is the advantage of this method? Experts note that using this method, you can save on purchasing screws and nails. But you need to understand that this method is only relevant for lining with a small thickness and low weight. For high-strength models, this method is not suitable.

Let's sum it up

So, we found out how to attach eurolining. As you can see, there are several ways and each is unique in its own way. However, the most popular among all is the staple method.

How to fasten eurolining in the absence special tool? You can use galvanized nails. This is especially true if a secret method is needed. Using metal sheathing Experts advise fastening the boards with self-tapping screws.

Eurolining is a modern, attractive material, which is used for covering a wide variety of rooms. It has numerous advantages, including not only beautiful appearance, but also environmentally friendly, excellent heat and sound insulation. This lining consists of planks made of natural wood, which are laid on the surface in the most different ways. Let's consider how the eurolining can be fastened.

Eurolining is a modern, attractive material that is used for covering a wide variety of rooms.

To make surface cladding using wooden lining, you must follow these rules:

  • Before covering, it is recommended to lay a sheathing of wooden slats on the surface of the walls or ceiling in increments of up to half a meter;
  • after this, you need to cut the strips to the required length in order to save time during installation and not be distracted by such work;
  • installation is carried out according to the chosen method;
  • do not forget to use special external and internal corners, floor plinth, they will help hide the joints and give the surface a more decorative and attractive appearance.

Fastening with self-tapping screws

Wood screws are most often used as fasteners for eurolining. As a rule, this method is used when it is necessary to cover horizontal surfaces, when all the boards must be laid very securely.

In this case, you can start covering not only from the floor, but also from the ceiling; there is no fundamental difference. Before laying the lining, you need to drill holes in the boards for self-tapping screws so that the relatively thin board does not crack when covering it. Such holes should be made near the edge where the tenon is located; the diameter should be equal to the size of the screws used for fastening. The depth of the holes is up to ten millimeters.

The installation itself is carried out in this way: the board is applied to the surface, after which the evenness of its laying is checked. Next, the panel is attached with self-tapping screws to the surface of the base, after which the remaining fasteners are inserted, all of them are carefully tightened. This method is quick and easy to assemble, but for residential premises it is recommended to use hidden cladding methods.

Hidden mounting options

Eurolining has numerous advantages, including not only a beautiful appearance, but also environmental friendliness, excellent heat and sound insulation.

When installing any finishing material I want to get not only a beautiful surface, but also to hide traces of fasteners as much as possible. In the case of wooden lining, there are many ways to make your dreams come true. Concealed fastening, which allows you to hide the fixing elements as much as possible, can be done using nails, dowels and special clamps.

Secret fastening of eurolining is most often carried out using special brackets, since it is this that ensures the most high quality the resulting cladding. To perform installation, it is necessary, in addition to the calculated quantity sheathing material, use an industrial heavy-duty stapler.

Laying the lining should begin only from the ceiling, and not from the floor.

The first board is mounted in this way: having attached it to the wall, you need to drive in the staples at an angle of approximately 45 degrees relative to the plane of the wall. When fastening, all brackets must go completely into the wood so as not to interfere with the installation of the bottom board. In this way, all other elements of the lining are attached.

One of the most simple methods Eurolining fasteners that provide hidden fastening are the use of galvanized thin nails. The method is similar to using staples, only in this case you need to use a special hammer to ensure that the caps are completely embedded in the wood. The nails are driven into the tenon, which is then completely covered by the lock portion of the next board. It is necessary to carefully ensure that all the caps are recessed into the material, otherwise the top board will not be able to lie down normally, and the coating will be uneven and unattractive.

If the eurolining is fastened with the help of hidden clamps - clasps, then such fasteners are not noticeable from outside, it does not interfere with the expansion or shrinkage of the tree, and helps to avoid splitting of the panels.

If the lining is attached to the wall using dowels, then you need to start from the bottom. First wood sheet in its lower part it is screwed with self-tapping screws, which are then covered with dowels. After this, you need to drive staples or screw screws into the lock tenon, which is located on top of the board, but in such a way that their heads are completely closed when laying the next board. By covering the tenon of one board with the bottom of another, we create a strong overlap and hide all traces of fastening. The result is a wooden wall surface that is not damaged by any metal fasteners.

The last top board is attached to the wall using self-tapping screws covered with dowels. After this, the wall cladding is completely finished, the protruding parts can be cut off and carefully sanded.

We use clamps

What is a clamp? This is a metal plate made from thin galvanized steel sheet. Completed fastener in the form of a bracket of a special design. This method allows you to make a hidden fastening, that is, no traces of fixation will be visible on the wall surface. Fastening eurolining in this way begins with the clamps being screwed to the wall surface using self-tapping screws.

The staples should fit onto the back surface of the board tenon. The first board is fastened with self-tapping screws, which are then covered with dowels, then you need to move down towards the floor, strengthening individual elements linings for brackets. This option is not only simple, it provides a beautiful, durable surface.

Eurolining is a very attractive finishing material with which you can completely transform any room, giving it comfort and warmth. It is executed from natural wood, is not only durable, but also has excellent sound and heat insulation properties. It is easy to attach such material to the wall surface; there is no need for experience or expensive tools. You can choose any method of laying lining that is suitable for you, which not only makes the work easier, but also makes it very fast, providing a beautiful wooden surface walls

The difference between “eurolining” and wooden lining is that it is produced according to the European standard DIN 68126. Improved and modernized wood processing technologies make this environmentally friendly and safe material highly resistant to moisture. Significantly simplify installation and extend service life.

To install the eurolining yourself correctly, you will need the necessary tools:

  • electric jigsaw;
  • ruler with level;
  • hammer;
  • perforator;
  • wood screws;
  • mounting thread;
  • drill;
  • clampers.

You can calculate the coverage area using the width of the working panel, which is 88 mm. Difficulties with the ceiling area arise quite rarely, but for ease of calculation, the surface of the walls is divided into separate rectangles. The length of the board should be equal to one of the sides of the resulting sectors. Depending on how the window or doorway is located, the other side will be of arbitrary size.

Be careful when using in calculations not the working width, but the actual width of the board, which is 96 mm; its error will be 7%.

Eat simple instructions, which does not require a specific classification of the master. It describes in detail how to properly secure the lining. It includes several points - from wall preparation to final finishing.

PREPARATION

Before you install wood paneling you need to do it indoors in advance best option electrical wiring. After the finishing process is completed, the wires will be hidden under the panels. These wires are placed in special channels called corrugations, which are made of non-flammable material.

Boxes with boards must be opened and kept in this condition for 24 to 72 hours. This is necessary so that the material can get used to given climate, temperature and humidity in the room. As a result, shrinkage or expansion of the panels at the joints can be avoided.

The appearance of the lining will change over time depending on how you fasten the eurolining. Differences in color and texture are very noticeable, as they are made from solid wood. Therefore, before installation, you need to select the most suitable sequence of boards, it depends on the chosen laying direction. Directions can be: diagonal, vertical, combined and horizontal.

Attention: when finishing the ceiling, panels located along the incident rays of light from the window can significantly increase the volume of the room.

INSTALLING THE LATTING

  • It doesn’t matter what type of wood is used for the sheathing, the main thing is that this material is artificially dried;
  • Sheathing boards are attached to load-bearing slats with a cross-section of 20 by 45 or 30 by 45 mm;
  • Using a level you can check the correct installation;
  • The distance between the slats should be 0.4-0.8 m.

The direction of the lathing depends on how the eurolining is attached:

  1. The slats are attached to the ceiling and floor in a diagonal or horizontal position;
  2. It is necessary to install the slats horizontally when vertical cladding, from wall to wall. It's better to start at the top and gradually move down.

THERMAL INSULATION

If you are sheathing the room yourself, use mineral wool as insulation. Cotton wool fills the space between the lining and the wall well.

For additional hydro- or vapor barrier, a water-repellent film is attached on top of the wool with a stapler, with the silver side facing inward. This can be Tyvek, Izospan or other waterproofing materials.

KLEIMERS

Clamps are hidden clamps that are used to secure eurolining. From the outside, this fastener is invisible, does not cause the wood to expand or shrink, and helps to avoid splitting of the panels. Fasteners for eurolining are made of galvanized steel, which is located under reliable protection from corrosion.

Galvanized nails, screws and clamps are sold in sets of 100 and 200 pieces. About 20 clamps are needed for one square meter of eurolining. The price of the package depends on the completeness. When purchasing, pay attention to the elasticity of the retainer, the presence of coating and the thickness of the plate.

Pay attention to the first panel when fastening with self-tapping screws. Then the protruding part of the clamp is inserted into the groove of the board, and the base is screwed or nailed to the supporting rails. Each subsequent strip and fastener fit into the groove pressed by the clamp with its tenon, covering it with itself. Under required size The last board is adjusted and cut. Hitting the end with a hammer if the boards are joined with some force is not recommended. Hitting with a hammer can split a tenon or groove. In these cases, a piece of slats is placed under a hammer.

Attention: if the eurolining is mounted horizontally, then the planks are positioned with the tenon facing upward to avoid moisture accumulation in the grooves.

FINISH

When you complete the sheathing, treat the surface with an antiseptic; it protects the wood from fungus and rot. To brighten the wood texture, use wax or stain. The interior looks beautiful with a matte varnish coating.

Let’s conclude that it won’t be difficult to figure out for yourself how the eurolining is attached. The good thing about the workflow is that installation can be done quickly and easily. And another plus is that at the end of the work there is very little waste and garbage in the room.

Eurolining today is one of the most popular materials for home decoration, and it will be useful to learn how to install eurolining yourself without outside help. It should be noted that this process is quite labor-intensive, but despite this, everything can be organized with your own hands.

Preparatory work

In order to avoid problems during the installation process, you must know several rules, the implementation of which is mandatory:

  • It is necessary to store the lining correctly. It must be in packaging, in a room without strong changes temperatures to Sun rays did not come into direct contact with the material, and most importantly, the room where the lining will be stored must be dry;
  • two days before the start of work, you must remove the material from the packaging;
  • before starting repair work, it is necessary to remove all dust and dirt from the material. This can be done with a dry cloth;
  • don't forget to treat the lining antiseptic and leave it for a while - so that it dries;
  • Do-it-yourself installation of eurolining can be done at temperatures not lower than +5°C, while the humidity should not exceed 55%;
  • in the event that you will cover the lining with any decorative coatings, the best option will complete this work before you begin installation, then the material will be painted evenly.

Advice! You should not use varnish for painting eurolining, which is intended for use in baths. Choose formulations for external or interior work- depending on the use of panels.

We calculate the material

In order to correctly calculate the required amount of material for covering the walls and ceiling, you will need to take into account the dimensions of the surface that you will cover and the width of the board. It is also necessary to take into account that the longitudinal tenon, when attaching the board to a wall or ceiling, will fit into the groove of the previous board, which means its width will decrease by 10-12 millimeters.

Example:

  1. The sheathed surface is 2.5x4 m.
  2. The width of the board is 96 millimeters.
  3. Taking into account the insertion of the tenon into the groove, we get: 96-10 = 86mm.
  4. We carry out further calculations using the formula: 4000/47 = 47 boards of 2.5 meters each.
  5. We attach the lining to the wall.

In order to create stylish interior in the room, you must strictly follow the rules for attaching eurolining. If you follow the instructions, you will eventually get Beautiful design, and the lining will serve you for a long time.

You must understand that material can be attached directly to the wall only if the surfaces are perfectly flat (unfortunately, very rarely walls and ceilings are perfectly flat); moreover, they must be made of wood.

It is strictly prohibited to attach eurolining to walls made of brick and reinforced concrete., therefore, in order to create on your walls or ceiling beautiful design from eurolining, you need to install a sheathing made of wooden beams.

Installing the sheathing


Lathing is wooden slats, most often their thickness is about 30 mm. They are attached to the ceiling, floor or wall, thereby forming a so-called frame for further installation of the lining. The installation of the sheathing must be perpendicular to the fastening of the lining. To make it clearer, let us explain: if the lining is attached vertically, then the sheathing beams should be positioned horizontally, and vice versa.

The slats are attached to each other at a distance of 60-80 mm, this is if you make a frame on the wall. If you install the lathing on the ceiling or floor, then this distance will be 40 mm.

Tip: Do not forget, when installing the sheathing, you must use a level or plumb line so that the entire structure is level.

Some people do not understand why such a structure as a sheathing is needed. After all, installing it takes a lot of time. In fact, it is necessary for several reasons.

If you want your interior to be ideal, even and proportional, then installing the lathing is a mandatory step in creating a composition from. The second reason is the presence of ventilation of the boards, which is necessary for the normal functioning of air in the room.

Do not forget! The ideal slats for creating a frame are 35x55 mm. They should not have any blemishes and they should be even.

How to fasten the lining

There are several ways to attach the lining, which we will present to you now. The design should be smooth and beautiful.

We fasten with self-tapping screws:

  • First, you must drill a small hole in the lining to secure the self-tapping screw, and this must be done from the tenon side;
  • when we install the lining. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the holes we made. Don’t forget to cover their caps with a dowel;
  • If the dowels protrude, they are cut off after all the work. Don't forget to sand the surface afterwards.

Fastening with brackets:

  • In this way, the material is usually attached to the ceiling from the floor.
  • Fastening is done using a stapler, which drives the staples at an angle of 45° into the tenon, thereby making it possible to install subsequent boards without interference.

We fasten with nails:

  • This method is not much different from the previous one.
  • The difference between them is that in this method they use .
  • To ensure that the nail heads do not stick out and are not visible, you will need a tool such as a hammer, because sticking heads will not allow you to continue installing the next board.

We fasten with dowels:

  • The method under consideration involves installation from below, and no other way.
  • We secure the first board from below with self-tapping screws, and from below. Don't forget to screw the hats with a dowel.
  • After the work has been done, we proceed to install the next panel. IN top part the previous board directly into the tenon, screw the self-tapping screw so that its head is level with the tenon itself (with its surface).
  • The next board is placed on top of the attached board, which, in turn, covers the fastening of the previous one. That is why the method is called secret fastening. It should be noted that the use of both staples and screws is appropriate here.
  • After the installation process is completed, you can begin trimming the protruding dowels. If you do the whole process correctly, you will end up with a flat and smooth surface.

Any of these methods will give you a positive result, but only if you do everything correctly and consistently.

So, instructions for attaching eurolining:

  • Let's start by taking one panel and setting it strictly vertically. In order for everything to work out clearly, you need to use a level, and throughout the entire process, this is the only way you will ensure that the entire structure you are building will be level.
  • Do not forget that you will need to fasten the first board exactly from the corner (which side does not matter, you want it on the right, or you want it on the left).
  • The boards that you will place next should be placed towards the previous board with a tenon. We secure the board in any way you choose. If you have any questions, see our

It is difficult to find a more common finishing material than lining, which people love largely because of its versatility and low price. Meanwhile, it has another noticeable advantage that cannot be ignored - it is easy to attach. Almost every person, armed necessary tools and materials, he can independently attach it to the wall. However, in order to be absolutely sure of the result, especially if you are doing it for the first time, it would be useful to learn about the main intricacies of this simple operation. Today's step-by-step instructions are devoted to how to properly attach the lining to the wall.

Characteristics of the material. All the pros and cons


Materials of natural origin have always been held in high esteem by people. Even at a time when environmental safety issues were of little concern to anyone. Mostly modern lining made from wood species that grow almost everywhere:

  • aspen;
  • cedar;
  • Linden;
  • coniferous species.






also in Lately Plastic lining has gained particular popularity. It imitates wood, but is cheaper. Some people look at such a “surrogate” with a fair amount of disdain, but as sales of finishing materials show, they are a small minority.




Let's take a look at its main trump cards:

  1. simple processing;
  2. long-term preservation of operational properties;
  3. camouflage of utility lines;
  4. high sound insulation performance;
  5. visual appeal.




What can you say about the disadvantages? Every material has them, and lining in this sense cannot be an exception.

  1. sensitivity to moisture and temperature changes;
  2. the possibility of drying out and cracking under the influence of specific temperature conditions;
  3. the potential for fungus to appear (how to get rid of fungus on walls);
  4. flammability:
  5. Availability harmful substances(for plastic lining)




Don’t be in a hurry to get upset: almost all of these advantages can be easily corrected if you attend to preventive treatment with antiseptics and water repellents in a timely manner. Only after this can you confidently attach the lining to any wall surface, knowing that nothing bad will happen to it over time.


There is another option for using metal lining:

  • steel;
  • aluminum.





Such material will definitely not rot or deform, and will not release life-threatening substances. However, it tends to get hot, so you should avoid placing it in areas exposed to the sun, or near light sources or water pipes(read about how to hide pipes without installing them in the wall).


Some tips for the right choice There will definitely not be any extra material. Moreover, there are a lot of options on the market, and it will not be easy for a beginner to figure out which material is best to attach to the wall.

  1. try to choose boards with the maximum width - this makes it easier to carry out subsequent installation of the material;
  2. in the case of vertical fixation of the lining, ensure that its length coincides with the height of the room;
  3. the optimal choice of wood for a bath - deciduous for the steam room and coniferous for the shower or dressing room;
  4. The main criterion when purchasing is the dryness of the material; if you notice even slight moisture, refrain from purchasing, as installation will be impossible.

Preparatory moment. Marking and counting


It is present in every type of installation work.

  • take all necessary measurements in the room;
  • calculate the required amount of finishing material;
  • decide how many consumables you need to purchase for the frame structure;
  • equip your work area, having gotten rid of everything unnecessary, if there is any large furniture nearby, then it is better to cover it with film to avoid contamination.

Preparation of tools and materials


Here, even a beginner who has never taken on any kind of home installation is difficult to surprise with anything. The same classic set of tools:

  • perforator;
  • screwdriver;
  • level;
  • cord plumb line;
  • meter;
  • pencil.

And here it is necessary materials:

  • bars for sheathing;
  • dowels;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • nails;
  • clampers.


And, in fact, the lining itself. Nothing will work without her!

Frame installation


The main thing you have to face at this stage is the choice of location battens.

  • horizontally;
  • vertically.


To do this, you need to proceed from how you will attach the material to the wall:

  • if the lining is located vertically, then the sheathing must be fixed in a horizontal position;
  • if the lining is placed horizontally, then, accordingly, the frame must be mounted vertically.








Everything else is according to the scheme:

  1. prepare wooden blocks with a thickness of 1 centimeter and drill holes in them with a minimum pitch of 50 centimeters, they should be approximately 1.5 mm smaller than the diameter of the screws;
  2. attach the bars to the wall and mark points through the holes for subsequent drilling;
  3. drill holes in the wall according to the marks and insert the prepared dowels;
  4. fix the bars to the dowels, controlling the accuracy of fastening using a level; you can also make a plywood spacer under the rail for comfortable work or buy leveling wedges in the store and install the sheathing in this way with minimal effort.

Installation of lining


We have already noted above that clapboard boards can be mounted on the wall both horizontally and vertically. Each option has its own nuances, determined by the specifics of use in a particular room.

Vertical arrangement

  • visually increases the height of the room;
  • expands its upper and lower boundaries;
  • recommended for use in bath rooms, as it promotes optimal air circulation.

Fixation method: finishing nails, clamps, decorative screws.



Installation nuances:

  1. fixation should begin from the corner;
  2. after the board is level, it is nailed, and the head is bitten off with a side cutter; if clamps are used, then they are nailed to the frame, and the other part into the groove of the board;
  3. when fixing the lining on the wall, check every 5-10 boards to ensure that the levelness is maintained; a corded plumb line is ideal for this;
  4. the last lining is adjusted to the desired size using a hacksaw.






Horizontal arrangement

  • increases the width of the room;
  • suitable for high rooms;
  • emphasizes the visual volume of the room.

Fixation method: finishing nails, clamps, self-tapping screws.




Installation nuances:

  1. Fixation should begin from the ceiling and gradually go down;
  2. check the evenness of the landing every ten boards;
  3. the last board is cut to required sizes using a hacksaw for wood;
  4. all fragments are knocked close to each other with a hammer;
  5. the joint between the wall and the floor can be covered with a beautiful plinth.




An informative video on the features of installing lining:


Of course, having carefully studied the proposed step by step instructions, you are unlikely to become a pro, but you will definitely prepare for your first “acquaintance” with the material. Here's a couple more to follow up good advice, which will help you avoid common mistakes among beginners when attaching popular materials to the wall:

  1. store-bought lining must be unpacked and placed front side on any flat surface - it is advisable to let it sit for a couple of days and only then proceed with installation;
  2. the minimum permissible room temperature during direct installation is 5 degrees Celsius, if lower, any operations with the material should be postponed until “better times”;
  3. after the lining is already fixed to the sheathing, it is recommended to cover it with varnish - this way you can achieve different types textures on the surface: glossy, matte, with the effect of wet asphalt, stone, etc.;
  4. You should not attach hardwood paneling to the wall if we're talking about about external work - only coniferous species are used for this purpose;
  5. if you plan to use the lining in the bathroom, toilet, balcony or kitchen, then it is best to use Alternative option made of plastic or aluminum - will last much longer;
  6. but for the bedroom, hall, hallway, classic wooden lining- perfect option;
  7. do not use plastic elements in the steam room - heat provokes the release of chemicals that can negatively affect the health of you, your guests and loved ones.











Conclusion

Of course, knowing how to properly attach lining to a wall can come in handy more than once in your life. Especially if you get your own home - and systematically arrange all these countless square meters for yourself. There is absolutely nothing complicated about this - installing lining on a wall is one of the simplest finishing operations, and visible difficulties are nothing more than fleeting moments that easily go away with the accumulation of your experience.
You can improve your skills all your life - and why not start learning new things with the operation we were talking about today? To further expand your installation skills, we advise you to read the article: “How to attach drywall to a wall: 2 methods with photos and videos.”








Photo: vk.com