What kind of materials are not used for the construction of baths - bricks, foam concrete and gas silicate blocks and much more. But only a tree is able to create that unique microclimate that will favorably affect the well-being of visitors to the steam room. Yes, and the look is much more pleasant, more familiar wooden panels. And even if the bath is built of wood concrete, stone or other similar material, nothing will prevent you from sheathing the inner surfaces of the walls and ceilings with wooden clapboard with your own hands.
Lining as a product was first used for lining the walls of wagons. This is where its name came from. The difference from simple edged boards was the presence of grooves along the long sides of the lining, which ensured maximum contact between adjacent panels. The sheathed wall was obtained without cracks and gaps, smooth and quite beautiful in appearance.
Along with technological progress, production also stepped forward. different types lining. Today it is produced in several versions of the profiles themselves, which differ in size, quality, material of manufacture.
Note! On sale you can find lining made of plastic, but such panels are suitable only for lining the dressing room and changing rooms in the bath. Plastic does not withstand high temperatures and is not suitable for finishing a steam room. Wooden products, in turn, regulate the level of humidity by absorbing or evaporating water from their surfaces, and some types of wood additionally emit aromatic components that have a beneficial effect on the human respiratory system.
Lining made of wood can be ordinary or euro. The first has a roughness and pile on its surface, the second is perfectly smooth. On the back side of the eurolining there is ventilation ducts, which prevent the accumulation of moisture (condensate) and relieve stress in the material. According to , humidity wooden products allowed within 12 ± 3%, however, ordinary lining can be made of wood with a moisture content of up to 25%, which can lead to deformation during the operation of the bath. Proceeding from this, we will choose a suitable wooden lining for the lining of the bath.
wooden lining
Lining is made from wood conifers and leafy. The best options for a steam room are aspen, linden, cedar, spruce, alder, oak, pine.
| Wood | Color | Properties | A photo |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aspen | White, acquires a silvery sheen. Barely visible yellow growth rings. | Lightweight, withstands high humidity and temperature well. Over time, it hardens so much that it is difficult to drive even a nail into the aspen panel. Does not emit resin, does not heat up. |
|
| Linden | Light, brown, less often reddish shades. There is a matte finish. | The fibers are homogeneous, the surface heats up a little, in the steam room it releases healthy aroma components. Upon contact with linden wood in a humid environment, iron oxidizes and rusts, streaks appear. |
|
| Linden Canadian or Siberian cedar | Brown with a pink tint. | One of the most expensive and healthy wood species. Does not rot, withstands mechanical loads well, does not crack. |
|
| Beige, brown with red tints. Darkens with time. Pronounced pattern of growth rings and resin channels. | Good mechanical properties, viscosity, warping is moderate. Does not cause difficulties in processing. It emits resin when heated, so it does not bypass for sheathing those surfaces in the steam room with which tactile contact is possible. Not suitable for lining the ceiling of a steam room, or repeated heating of the steam room is required, followed by removal of the resin that has come out (repeat the procedure until all the resin comes out of the lining). For a bath, pine lining is better to choose Extra class. |
|
The following table lists the classes and their descriptions. It is worth knowing that wood with large quantity knots heat up faster, can burn. The marking is the same for all types of wooden lining.
| class or grade | Description |
|---|---|
| Extra | No cracks, knots or other defects. The surface is perfectly smooth and even. |
| A or 1 | The surface is smooth or slightly rough. There are 1 healthy knot per 1 linear meter (knot diameter not more than 1.5 cm). when drying - no more than the width of the panel. There can be pitchers and resin pockets of 2 pcs. by 1 r.m. |
| B or 2 | A lot of knots, of which there can be no more than 2 pieces falling out. by 1 r.m. There may be through cracks up to 1 mm wide and up to 15-30 cm long, hairline cracks are allowed along the entire length of the board. The presence of wormholes (3 pcs. per 1 r.m.) and rot (no more than 1/10 of the panel) is allowed. Grade B lining is suitable for painting. |
| C or 3 | The quality is low. Lots of different defects. Such lining is suitable for upholstery of technical rooms or rough work. |
The norms of defects according to GOST are indicated in the table below.
It remains only to choose the lining profile, because. Each one has its own set of nuances.
| Profile | Description | Scheme |
|---|---|---|
| Standard | It looks like a classic quarter-board lining. It has a thorn-groove connection, and the thorn is shorter than the groove to prevent deformation. |
|
| Calm or Kolkhoz Woman | It differs from the previous one by rounded edges and the presence of reverse side channels to prevent the accumulation of condensate. |
|
| Produced in accordance with DIN 68126. Has an elongated spike. After mounting the lining, the surface of the wall is ribbed. |
|
|
| Soft line or soft line is a symbiosis of Euro and Calm lining. Soft rounded corners, elongated tenon, embossed texture of the wall after panel assembly. |
|
|
| It is applied to finishing of external walls and rooms. Stylized as a rounded log. There is a thorn-groove connection, front side usually rounded, and the wrong side is flat or with channels for ventilation. |
|
For example, let's take a bath 3x3 meters with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters. Sheathing will be carried out on all walls and ceilings, the floor is not taken into account in the calculations.
Suppose there are two rooms in the bath - a steam room 2x3 and an entrance hall 1x3 meters. We calculate the area of \u200b\u200bsheathing the steam room.
We calculate the area of \u200b\u200bsheathing the hallway.
The total sheathing area will be 31 + 23 = 54 square meters. From this figure, subtract the area of window and door openings, and then add a 15% margin of material for trimming.
The price of lining is indicated for square or linear meters, less often - cubic meters.
You can calculate the difference in price if you find out how many planks of lining are required for sheathing inner surface baths.
The most popular profile size is as follows:
The following tables will help you find out how much square meters material in one cubic meter, calculate the number of packages (1 package \u003d 10 lining panels) and determine the cost of cladding the room.
Advice! You should not buy lining without packaging (shrink film) - this is a low-quality product that will quickly lose its properties and the bath lining will have to be completely or partially changed.
The lining in the baths is fixed vertically and horizontally. But a more rational option for a bath is a horizontal one.
Consider a number of advantages of this type of attachment:
When erecting and finishing turnkey baths, builders often mount the lining vertically, choosing panels that are suitable in height and installing them without trimming. With vertical fastening, it is easier to arrange corners, the work takes a little less time. But saving time often “goes sideways”, because if from an accidental blow, fallen coal or high humidity the vertical board will be damaged, the entire wall will have to be disassembled.
Before finishing the walls and ceiling of the bath are insulated. It is best to use mineral (stone) wool or other heaters that do not deform when heated and do not emit harmful chemical fumes into the air. A layer of foil vapor barrier is necessarily fixed on top of the insulation. Ruberoid and glassine are not used in the bath. The furnace and ventilation system are mounted before the installation of the lining.
pvc lining
Even if the ceiling is made of wood, you can’t just nail the lining to it with nails. Consider step by step process ceiling lining.
Step 1. Assembling the crate on the ceiling
The crate will consist of slats with a cross section of 2x5 cm to 5x5 cm. The slats must be fairly even and dry.
The slats will be fixed on top of the foil, under which there is already a crate for insulation. The optimal distance between adjacent rails is from 40 to 60 cm.
Note! It is understood that the crate for the insulation was attached using a level and plumb lines, and as a result, a horizontal ceiling surface was obtained without distortions.
The slats will be perpendicular to the direction of the lining planks. We fix the first rail at a distance of 10 cm from the wall, using yellow-passivated stainless wood screws 7-10 cm long. We screw in the screws every half a meter. It is recommended to pre-drill holes in the rails for self-tapping screws so that the wood does not crack.
We fasten the second rail strictly parallel to the first at a distance of 45-60 cm. The ends of the rails should be 10 cm from the nearest walls. We continue to work until the last rail of the crate is installed. We constantly check the correct fastening of the rails, using a stretched fishing line / cord or laser level. If a horizontal deviation is detected, small wooden wedges are placed between the foil and the rail.
In some cases, when it is required to make a lower ceiling in the bath, metal hangers are used to fasten the crate.
In this case, first on the ceiling with long self-tapping screws (dowels with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 80 mm are used only for ceilings made of concrete and other dense materials), suspensions are fixed, after which the sheathing beams are horizontally attached to them (self-tapping screws with large threads are used, length 3 .5 cm). It is more convenient to do the work together, so that the assistant holds the second end of the rail and monitors the correct position of the crate.
It is advisable to impregnate a wooden crate with an antiseptic so that it lasts longer.
Note! You can first assemble the crate of the ceiling and walls, and then proceed to the installation of the lining or completely sheathe the ceiling, and then attach the slats and wooden panels to the walls.
Step 2. Mounting the lining on the ceiling
It is not necessary to make through holes in the lining and hammer nails into it. This is not only ugly, but will also lead to corrosion of hardware and the appearance of rusty spots on the ceiling.
To fix the lining, you can use either a set of clamps with nails, or staples 38 or 40 mm long. Staples 25 mm long are not used.
Before attaching the first bar, a spike should be cut from it. To do this, we draw a straight line with a pencil, cut the board along with an electrolobe, apply it to the place of the future location so that the panel is 1-2 cm away from the walls.
On a note! If you are working alone, use panel supports. This will make it much easier to keep her.
We fasten the first panel of the lining with self-tapping screws to the crate. We maintain a step of 50-80 cm, we use only stainless screws. If you want to drown the heads of the screws in the thickness of the lining, drill holes for the screws, and then countersink each of them (holes).
Consider the method of fastening with clamps. Metal clamps are inserted into the groove of the first board.
Each of them has three holes, into which either 2 nails included in the kit are driven in, or a bracket is shot. Kleimers are inserted with a step corresponding to the step of the crate, so that the lining is attached to the rails, and not to the foil and insulation.
If instead of kleimers are used staples, then they shoot into the groove of the lining board at an angle.
When the first board is fixed, the next panel is inserted into its groove with a spike. To seal the connection, we take a wooden “chock”, apply it to the end of the panel and easily tap it along the entire length.
There is another way to seal the connection. You will need a wedge, a clamp with a clamp and a hammer. We fix the bracket on the lath of the crate, insert a wedge between the bracket and the end of the lining, knock on the wide end of the wedge with a hammer.
We continue to sheathe the ceiling, if necessary, cutting out holes for lamps, a ceiling ventilation grill, and other decorative elements.
The last board of the lining may have to be cut lengthwise. We measure the distance from the wall to the last inserted plank, make markings, cut out the panel, insert the part of the board with the spike into the groove.
To seal the connection, a bracket is useful. We insert it into the gap between the wall and the lining, tap it with a mallet.
Note! Periodically, you need to check the parallelism of the lining boards. For this, it is convenient to use a tape measure. We insert the "tongue" of the tape measure into the gap between the first panel and the wall, measure the distance to the end of the last panel attached to the ceiling. We repeat the operation on the opposite side of the ceiling, the distance should be the same. That is, if on one side 5 panels nailed to the ceiling are 60 cm wide, then on the opposite side it should also be 60 cm.
The last board, as well as the first, is fixed with self-tapping screws.
Step 1. Mounting the battens on the walls
We fasten the first rail with self-tapping screws to the very bottom of the wall, at a distance of 1-2 cm from the floor.
We nail the following rails in the corners of the room.
Also, slats will pass near windows and doors. To make the work go faster (or in the absence of a screwdriver), you can nail the slats with a nailer (suitable for nails up to 65-160 mm long) or a staple gun (the length of the staples for a 20 mm thick rail is from 38 to 51 mm), but it is important to drive in nails and staples not perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle (from top to bottom), so that the hardware tightly holds the wood even with its thermal expansion.
After all the vertical rails are installed, the crate is nailed around the door and window openings, you can proceed to the installation of horizontal rails, the first of which is mounted with an indent of 10 cm from the ceiling. The danger of breaking through the foil with sharp edges is minimal, so the chamfer can no longer be grinded. Be sure to check the correct position of the installed rails.
For convenience, the distance between the top rail and the floor is divided into equal sections of 40-50 cm, with the resulting pitch, horizontal bars of the crate are fixed using 90 or 100 mm self-tapping screws (holes are drilled under them with a drill) or nails.
Note! The crate described above is suitable for mounting the lining vertically. For a horizontal arrangement of lining strips, horizontal rails are first attached to the wall, and vertical ones on top of them.
It is worth noting that if the walls of the log house are sheathed with clapboard, and there are no layers of insulation and foil (for example, in the dressing room), then the crate is assembled on aluminum hangers. They are fixed to the logs of the log house with self-tapping screws, after which the slats are attached, leaving a gap of 5-10 cm for ventilation.
Step 2. Mounting the lining on the walls
If a lining boards will be arranged vertically, then we fix the first bar from any of the corners of the room.
It is worth carefully measuring the length of the panels, because between the floor and the wood, as well as between the already sheathed ceiling and the wooden wall planks, it is necessary to leave a gap of 2 cm.
To beautifully decorate the corner, cut off a spike from the board. We apply the lining to the crate, check the verticality, screw in the screws.
We insert the second board into the groove of the first panel. We seal the connection with a mallet. Next, we fix with clamps or brackets (the installation method is identical on walls and ceilings, detailed instructions described above).
If a lining will be located horizontally, installation starts from the ceiling.
We drill holes for self-tapping screws, apply the board to the crate (necessarily with the groove down) at a distance of 2 cm from the floor, check the horizontal position. We screw into drilled holes self-tapping screws. We leave a small gap between the ceiling and the first panel, which will be closed with a plinth. We insert clamps into the groove of the first panel or shoot the brackets.
We insert the second board with a spike into the groove of the one above. We check their parallelism, after which we again fix them with clasps or staples.
When all the walls are sheathed, all that remains is to install the skirting boards (on the floor or additionally in the corners and under the ceiling), ceiling lamps and sockets, and make shelves. On this, the lining of the bath inside the clapboard is completed.
During the construction of the bath, there comes a moment when it is necessary to decide on its interior decoration. Here it is very important to choose a material that will not only be beautiful and functional, but will also be able to withstand the specific microclimate of this room. Based on this, many are wondering how to inexpensively sheathe a bathhouse inside and what qualities should the selected material have? A properly equipped steam room is the key to a comfortable and pleasant stay, which is why the finishing of all its surfaces must be approached as responsibly as possible. In this article, we will consider in detail the process of landscaping this room, starting from the choice of materials and ending with the technology of their installation.
To the question of how inexpensively sheathe a bathhouse inside, there is one correct answer - with a tree. Why exactly them? Because it is the only 100% natural material that meets all the requirements for use in rooms with high humidity and high temperatures. This finish gives the space a special aesthetics, creates a pleasant atmosphere, and most importantly, perfectly retains heat.
For those who are interested in how to sheathe a bathhouse inside, besides wood, we should mention glass-magnesium sheets. it new material, which is made from wood chips and fiberglass with the addition of various binders.
Plates are produced in light colors and can be used in rooms with high humidity. Since this is a relatively new product, it is rarely used for bath cladding, so we will not dwell on it for a long time.
From wooden materials are actively used: block house, panels and lining. For a bath, these options are considered the most suitable.
Being engaged in finishing walls and ceilings, it is not at all necessary to limit yourself to any one type of wood. The combination of various varieties that differ in shade will make it possible to make a more interesting and extraordinary design. But, before deciding which tree to sheathe the bath inside, you should take into account the properties and performance characteristics of each tree species.
Facing the ceiling and walls, it is better to use larch, linden, aspen and cedar. It is extremely undesirable to place pine materials in the steam room, since when heated they emit a pungent odor into the air, which can interfere with a comfortable rest. 
But for finishing dressing rooms and rest rooms, this option is optimal. Pine has a beautiful texture, is easy to process and has a very attractive cost.
It is better to sheathe the steam room and the washing room with linden and larch. 
These tree species are able to retain their original color for a long time and practically do not heat up under the influence of high temperature.
To finish the surfaces of the steam room, only high-quality materials should be selected. Most often, lining is used here. For a bath, a board of the highest class from hardwood is chosen.
The slats are located in a horizontal or vertical position and are fastened with nails, adhesives or staples in a secret way. In order to ensure reliable retention of heat and steam inside the room, a layer of heat-insulating material is placed on the walls. 
For this purpose, can be used:
It is very important that there is air space between the lining and the insulation. This can be achieved by mounting the crate on which the facing material will be installed. The distance between the rails should be no more than 50 cm.
The finished frame and lining are covered with an antiseptic. Processing is carried out before assembly. Wall cladding starts from any corner of the room, fixing the boards on both sides, with any of the above fasteners.
The temperature in the steam room at floor level usually does not exceed 30 degrees, so they can be made of any material. It is more important to make the correct and quick draining of water from the bath. The rough floor is covered with a plank flooring, on which a polished floorboard or ceramic tiles.
Comparing these two coatings, it should be noted that the tile is more durable. This is due to the fact that under the influence of moisture, the wood darkens, rots and fails after a while. Ceramics, in turn, is not afraid of humidity, temperature changes and is not subject to rot and mold.
Despite this, very often it is wooden floors that are laid in the baths. This material harmonizes perfectly with the surrounding interior and is much more pleasant when touched with bare feet.
Considering how it is inexpensive to sheathe a bath inside, it is worth dwelling in detail on the installation technology of both options.
floor finishing process wooden materials very simple. First of all, the logs are laid on which the boards are mounted. They are placed on brick columns, which are installed on the base of the floor. For a log, choose boards measuring 20 x 20 or 25 x 25. They are laid in increments of no more than 1 meter. The floor level in the steam room must be 10-15 centimeters higher than in other rooms of the bath. This is necessary so that warm air does not leave the steam room for as long as possible. For laying the finished floor, grooved or edged material is used, at least 30 cm thick. 
Before sheathing the bath inside with a board, all lining and logs must be pre-treated with an antiseptic composition. This will protect them from colonization by microorganisms and extend the life of the wooden floor.
For safe movement for floors, you should choose tiles with a rough surface. This will make them less slippery when in contact with water.
For styling ceramic coating it is necessary to make a solid concrete base. The surface must be perfectly clean, even and dry. Immediately before laying, the tiles are soaked in water for a couple of minutes. This is necessary so that it does not absorb moisture from the solution and the floor lining is of the highest quality and durable.
From the most noticeable corner of the room, begin laying the tiles using a sand-cement mortar or moisture-resistant adhesive. At the end of the work, the seams are hidden with a special moisture-resistant grout. It helps protect tiles from mold. 
For more comfortable movement on the tile, you can place flooring on the floor, knocked down from wooden slats. Such designs are convenient in that they can be taken out of the steam room to dry.
In order to properly plan your own budget, you need to understand how much it costs to sheathe a bath inside. The final amount depends on who will perform the finishing work and how high-quality material is chosen for finishing. 
If you plan to hire specialists to equip the bath, you need to be prepared to pay for their services. So, the installation of the crate is estimated at 130 rubles per m2. Facing the walls and ceiling with clapboard will cost the owner of the premises from 350-500 rubles per m2.
In the event that the walls inside the bath will be sheathed with their own hands, only the costs of acquiring lining and related materials are taken into account.
A board of the highest quality made of linden costs about 500-600 rubles per m2.
Lining made of larch will cost 250-350 rubles per m2, while material made of coniferous wood has a price tag of 150-200 rubles m2.
To these costs should be added the cost of fasteners, bars and thermal insulation.
In this article, we found out how and with what it is inexpensive to sheathe a bath inside. In order to save money, the interior arrangement of the premises can be done independently, without resorting to the expensive help of specialists. After facing the floors, walls and ceiling, you need to take care of lighting and furniture installation. A variety of shelves and hooks will not be superfluous, on which you can put personal items and hang towels. After completing all the work, you can start bathing procedures and enjoy your vacation with relatives and friends.
The history of such a simple but necessary invention as a bath goes back to far, far years, but even today, this building practically does not lose its relevance. A shower and a bath cannot completely replace a bath, because in it you can not only get rid of dirt, but also improve your health. Typically, a bathhouse consists of a dressing room, a sink and a steam room, but the last two items are often combined.
When building each of these rooms, it is necessary to decide how best to sheathe the bath from the inside, because the air temperature in the room, as well as the amount of fuel needed to heat it, will depend on this. In this article we will talk about all the most popular and reliable options for lining the bath from the inside.
Do not rush to think about how it is better to sheathe a bath inside, because sheathing may not be needed at all. A task inner lining bath is to save internal warmth for a long period of time, which will significantly reduce fuel consumption and heating time. Thus, we can conclude that the sheathing is an integral part of the bath, but this is not entirely true, because the bath, built from solid timber using old technologies, does not need additional insulation (for more details: "Sheathing with a pair of clapboard - how to do it right").
Having built a bath from cheaper materials, you will have to think about choosing a sheathing material.
First of all, it is necessary to mention the main characteristics that the selected material should have:
Speaking specifically about how you can sheathe the bath inside, it is worth mentioning the lining, block house and magnolite. Of the three options presented, it can also be difficult to choose one, so below we will talk in detail about each of them.
Lining is the most popular material for bath sheathing, because it combines all the most necessary qualities: reliability, beauty and reasonable price.
Also lining has a number of useful properties:
Next, it is worth talking about the right choice of material. First of all, pay attention to the fact that the price for lining up to 1.5 m is slightly lower than for material from 2 m, so it is worth choosing a short length. When installing a short lining, use a rail in the middle to avoid various difficulties (more: "Which lining is better for a bath - an overview of materials for a bath, dressing room and shower room").
It is also worth paying attention to the wood from which the lining is made:
You can see an example of such a skin in the photo.
If you can’t decide how to sheathe the steam room inside, except for the lining, then remember the block house, because it has similar qualities, but a different appearance. The block house has a semi-oval shape, so the walls made of this material look like a log house, which gives your bath a “historical naturalness”. The strength and resistance to various influences of the block house are quite high, but it is recommended to carry out bactericidal treatment once a year.
Block house is classified by quality:
The block house is made from various woods, but only hardwood and coniferous materials are suitable for a bath. Remember that using spruce and pine is highly discouraged, because you can burn your skin on their heated surface.
It is modern, however, not the most best material for sheathing baths in the construction market.
If you are thinking about how to sheathe the dressing room inside except for the lining, then you can undoubtedly resort to this option, in addition, it is perfect for other rooms due to its qualities:
This sheathing is made from the following materials: fine wood shavings, magnesium and other non natural ingredients reinforced with glass mesh. By making the bath sheathing from such material, you reduce the environmental component of the room.
Conclusion
Now you are familiar with all the options for the interior lining of the bath and you can independently decide how to sheathe the sauna inside, starting from your own desires and financial situation.
What materials are not used for the construction of baths - bricks, foam concrete and gas silicate blocks and much more. But only a tree is able to create that unique microclimate that will favorably affect the well-being of visitors to the steam room. Yes, and the look is much more pleasant, more familiar wooden panels. And even if the bath is built of wood concrete, stone or other similar material, nothing will prevent you from sheathing the inner surfaces of the walls and ceilings with wooden clapboard with your own hands.
Lining as a product was first used for lining the walls of wagons. This is where its name came from. The difference from simple edged boards was the presence of grooves along the long sides of the lining, which ensured maximum contact between adjacent panels. The sheathed wall was obtained without cracks and gaps, smooth and quite beautiful in appearance.
Along with technological progress, the production of various types of lining also stepped forward. Today it is produced in several versions of the profiles themselves, which differ in size, quality, material of manufacture.
Note! On sale you can find lining made of plastic, but such panels are suitable only for lining the dressing room and changing rooms in the bath. Plastic does not withstand high temperatures and is not suitable for finishing a steam room. Wooden products, in turn, regulate the level of humidity by absorbing or evaporating water from their surfaces, and some types of wood additionally emit aromatic components that have a beneficial effect on the human respiratory system.
Lining made of wood can be ordinary or euro. The first has a roughness and pile on its surface, the second is perfectly smooth. On the back side of eurolining there are ventilation ducts that prevent the accumulation of moisture (condensate) and relieve stress in the material. According to GOST 8242-88, the moisture content of wooden products is allowed within 12 ± 3%, however, ordinary lining can be made of wood with a moisture content of up to 25%, which can lead to deformation during the operation of the bath. Proceeding from this, we will choose a suitable wooden lining for the lining of the bath.
The lining is made from softwood and hardwood. The best options for a steam room are aspen, linden, cedar, spruce, alder, oak, pine.
WoodColorPropertiesPhoto
| Aspen | White, acquires a silvery sheen. Barely visible yellow growth rings. | Lightweight, withstands high humidity and temperature well. Over time, it hardens so much that it is difficult to drive even a nail into the aspen panel. Does not emit resin, does not heat up. |   |
| Linden | Light, brown, less often reddish shades. There is a matte finish. | The fibers are homogeneous, the surface heats up a little, in the steam room it releases healthy aroma components. Upon contact with linden wood in a humid environment, iron oxidizes and rusts, streaks appear. |  |
| Linden Canadian or Siberian cedar |
Brown with a pink tint. | One of the most expensive and healthy wood species. Does not rot, withstands mechanical loads well, does not crack. |  |
| Beige, brown with red tints. Darkens with time. Pronounced pattern of growth rings and resin channels. | Good mechanical properties, viscosity, warping is moderate. Does not cause difficulties in processing. It emits resin when heated, so it does not bypass for sheathing those surfaces in the steam room with which tactile contact is possible. Not suitable for lining the ceiling of a steam room, or repeated heating of the steam room is required, followed by removal of the resin that has come out (repeat the procedure until all the resin comes out of the lining). For a bath, pine lining is better to choose Extra class. |   |
The following table lists the classes and their descriptions. It is worth knowing that wood with a large number of knots heats up faster and can burn. The marking is the same for all types of wooden lining.
Class or varietyDescription
| Extra | No cracks, knots or other defects. The surface is perfectly smooth and even. |
| A or 1 | The surface is smooth or slightly rough. There are 1 healthy knot per 1 linear meter (knot diameter not more than 1.5 cm). when drying - no more than the width of the panel. There can be pitchers and resin pockets of 2 pcs. by 1 r.m. |
| B or 2 | A lot of knots, of which there can be no more than 2 pieces falling out. by 1 r.m. There may be through cracks up to 1 mm wide and up to 15-30 cm long, hairline cracks are allowed along the entire length of the board. The presence of wormholes (3 pcs. per 1 r.m.) and rot (no more than 1/10 of the panel) is allowed. Grade B lining is suitable for painting. |
| C or 3 | The quality is low. Lots of different defects. Such lining is suitable for upholstery of technical rooms or rough work. |
The norms of defects according to GOST are indicated in the table below.
It remains only to choose the lining profile, because. Each one has its own set of nuances.
ProfileDescriptionScheme
| Standard | It looks like a classic quarter-board lining. It has a thorn-groove connection, and the thorn is shorter than the groove to prevent deformation. |   |
| Calm or Kolkhoz Woman | It differs from the previous one in rounded edges and the presence of channels on the reverse side to prevent the accumulation of condensate. |   |
| Produced in accordance with DIN 68126. Has an elongated spike. After mounting the lining, the surface of the wall is ribbed. |   |
|
| Soft line or soft line is a symbiosis of Euro and Calm lining. Soft rounded corners, elongated tenon, embossed texture of the wall after panel assembly. |  |
|
| It is applied to finishing of external walls and rooms. Stylized as a rounded log. There is a thorn-groove connection, the front side is usually rounded, and the wrong side is flat or with channels for ventilation. |   |
For example, let's take a bath 3x3 meters with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters. Sheathing will be carried out on all walls and ceilings, the floor is not taken into account in the calculations.
Suppose there are two rooms in the bath - a steam room 2x3 and an entrance hall 1x3 meters. We calculate the area of \u200b\u200bsheathing the steam room.
We calculate the area of \u200b\u200bsheathing the hallway.
The total sheathing area will be 31 + 23 = 54 square meters. From this figure, subtract the area of window and door openings, and then add a 15% margin of material for trimming.
The price of lining is indicated for square or linear meters, less often - cubic meters.
You can calculate the difference in price if you find out how many planks of lining are required to sheathe the inner surface of the bath.
The most popular profile size is as follows:
The following tables will help you find out how many square meters of material are in one cubic meter, calculate the number of packages (1 package \u003d 10 lining panels) and determine the cost of lining the room.
Advice! You should not buy lining without packaging (shrink film) - this is a low-quality product that will quickly lose its properties and the bath lining will have to be completely or partially changed.
The lining in the baths is fixed vertically and horizontally. But a more rational option for a bath is a horizontal one.
Consider a number of advantages of this type of attachment:
When erecting and finishing turnkey baths, builders often mount the lining vertically, choosing panels that are suitable in height and installing them without trimming. With vertical fastening, it is easier to arrange corners, the work takes a little less time. But saving time often “goes sideways”, because if a vertical board is damaged by an accidental impact, fallen coal or high humidity, the entire wall will have to be disassembled.
Before finishing, the walls and ceiling of the bath are insulated. It is best to use mineral (stone) wool or other heaters that do not deform when heated and do not emit harsh chemical fumes into the air. A layer of foil vapor barrier is necessarily fixed on top of the insulation. Ruberoid and glassine are not used in the bath. The furnace and ventilation system are mounted before the installation of the lining.
Even if the ceiling is made of wood, you can’t just nail the lining to it with nails. Consider the step-by-step process of ceiling sheathing.
Step 1. Assembling the crate on the ceiling
The crate will consist of slats with a cross section of 2x5 cm to 5x5 cm. The slats must be fairly even and dry.
The slats will be fixed on top of the foil, under which there is already a crate for insulation. The optimal distance between adjacent rails is from 40 to 60 cm.
Note! It is understood that the crate for the insulation was attached using a level and plumb lines, and as a result, a horizontal ceiling surface was obtained without distortions.
The slats will be perpendicular to the direction of the lining planks. We fix the first rail at a distance of 10 cm from the wall, using yellow-passivated stainless wood screws 7-10 cm long. We screw in the screws every half a meter. It is recommended to pre-drill holes in the rails for self-tapping screws so that the wood does not crack.
We fasten the second rail strictly parallel to the first at a distance of 45-60 cm. The ends of the rails should be 10 cm from the nearest walls. We continue to work until the last rail of the crate is installed. We constantly check the correct fastening of the rails, using a stretched fishing line / cord or a laser level. If a horizontal deviation is detected, small wooden wedges are placed between the foil and the rail.
In some cases, when it is required to make a lower ceiling in the bath, metal hangers are used to fasten the crate.
In this case, first on the ceiling with long self-tapping screws (dowels with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 80 mm are used only for ceilings made of concrete and other dense materials), suspensions are fixed, after which the sheathing beams are horizontally attached to them (self-tapping screws with large threads are used, length 3 .5 cm). It is more convenient to do the work together, so that the assistant holds the second end of the rail and monitors the correct position of the crate.
It is advisable to impregnate a wooden crate with an antiseptic so that it lasts longer.
Note! You can first assemble the crate of the ceiling and walls, and then proceed to the installation of the lining or completely sheathe the ceiling, and then attach the slats and wooden panels to the walls.
Step 2. Mounting the lining on the ceiling
It is not necessary to make through holes in the lining and hammer nails into it. This is not only unsightly, but will also lead to corrosion of the hardware and the appearance of rust spots on the ceiling.
To fix the lining, you can use either a set of clamps with nails, or staples 38 or 40 mm long. Staples 25 mm long are not used.
Before attaching the first bar, a spike should be cut from it. To do this, we draw a straight line with a pencil, cut the board along with an electrolobe, apply it to the place of the future location so that the panel is 1-2 cm away from the walls.
On a note! If you are working alone, use panel supports. This will make it much easier to keep her.
We fasten the first panel of the lining with self-tapping screws to the crate. We maintain a step of 50-80 cm, we use only stainless screws. If you want to drown the heads of the screws in the thickness of the lining, drill holes for the screws, and then countersink each of them (holes).
Consider the method of fastening with clamps. Metal clamps are inserted into the groove of the first board.
Each of them has three holes, into which either 2 nails included in the kit are driven in, or a bracket is shot. Kleimers are inserted with a step corresponding to the step of the crate, so that the lining is attached to the rails, and not to the foil and insulation.
If instead of kleimers are used staples, then they shoot into the groove of the lining board at an angle.
When the first board is fixed, the next panel is inserted into its groove with a spike. To seal the connection, we take a wooden “chock”, apply it to the end of the panel and easily tap it along the entire length.
There is another way to seal the connection. You will need a wedge, a clamp with a clamp and a hammer. We fix the bracket on the lath of the crate, insert a wedge between the bracket and the end of the lining, knock on the wide end of the wedge with a hammer.
We continue to sheathe the ceiling, if necessary, cutting out holes for lamps, a ceiling ventilation grill, and other decorative elements.
The last board of the lining may have to be cut lengthwise. We measure the distance from the wall to the last inserted plank, make markings, cut out the panel, insert the part of the board with the spike into the groove.
To seal the connection, a bracket is useful. We insert it into the gap between the wall and the lining, tap it with a mallet.
Note! Periodically, you need to check the parallelism of the lining boards. For this, it is convenient to use a tape measure. We insert the "tongue" of the tape measure into the gap between the first panel and the wall, measure the distance to the end of the last panel attached to the ceiling. We repeat the operation on the opposite side of the ceiling, the distance should be the same. That is, if on one side 5 panels nailed to the ceiling are 60 cm wide, then on the opposite side it should also be 60 cm.
The last board, as well as the first, is fixed with self-tapping screws.
Step 1. Mounting the battens on the walls
We fasten the first rail with self-tapping screws to the very bottom of the wall, at a distance of 1-2 cm from the floor.
We nail the following rails in the corners of the room.
Also, slats will pass near windows and doors. To make the work go faster (or in the absence of a screwdriver), you can nail the slats with a nailer (suitable for nails up to 65-160 mm long) or a staple gun (the length of the staples for a 20 mm thick rail is from 38 to 51 mm), but it is important to drive in nails and staples not perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle (from top to bottom), so that the hardware tightly holds the wood even with its thermal expansion.
After all the vertical rails are installed, the crate is nailed around the door and window openings, you can proceed to the installation of horizontal rails, the first of which is mounted with an indent of 10 cm from the ceiling. The danger of breaking through the foil with sharp edges is minimal, so the chamfer can no longer be grinded. Be sure to check the correct position of the installed rails.
For convenience, the distance between the top rail and the floor is divided into equal sections of 40-50 cm, with the resulting pitch, horizontal bars of the crate are fixed using 90 or 100 mm self-tapping screws (holes are drilled under them with a drill) or nails.
Note! The crate described above is suitable for mounting the lining vertically. For a horizontal arrangement of lining strips, horizontal rails are first attached to the wall, and vertical ones on top of them.
It is worth noting that if the walls of the log house are sheathed with clapboard, and there are no layers of insulation and foil (for example, in the dressing room), then the crate is assembled on aluminum hangers. They are fixed to the logs of the log house with self-tapping screws, after which the slats are attached, leaving a gap of 5-10 cm for ventilation.
Step 2. Mounting the lining on the walls
If a lining boards will be arranged vertically, then we fix the first bar from any of the corners of the room.
It is worth carefully measuring the length of the panels, because between the floor and the wood, as well as between the already sheathed ceiling and the wooden wall planks, it is necessary to leave a gap of 2 cm.
To beautifully decorate the corner, cut off a spike from the board. We apply the lining to the crate, check the verticality, screw in the screws.
We insert the second board into the groove of the first panel. We seal the connection with a mallet. Next, we fix with clamps or brackets (the installation method is identical on walls and ceilings, detailed instructions are described above).
If a lining will be located horizontally, installation starts from the ceiling.
We drill holes for self-tapping screws, apply the board to the crate (necessarily with the groove down) at a distance of 2 cm from the floor, check the horizontal position. We screw the screws into the drilled holes. We leave a small gap between the ceiling and the first panel, which will be closed with a plinth. We insert clamps into the groove of the first panel or shoot the brackets.
We insert the second board with a spike into the groove of the one above. We check their parallelism, after which we again fix them with clasps or staples.
When all the walls are sheathed, all that remains is to install the skirting boards (on the floor or additionally in the corners and under the ceiling), ceiling lamps and sockets, and make shelves. On this, the lining of the bath inside the clapboard is completed.
Files for download: DIN 68126 (standard for the manufacture of eurolining) and GOST 8242-88 (standard for the manufacture of wooden lining, plinths, etc.).
The most important room in the bath is the steam room. In addition to its main function, it must satisfy aesthetic needs, because where it is beautiful to spend time is much more pleasant. Consider how to finish the steam room inside so that it pleases with its appearance.
Traditionally, wood is used for sheathing the steam room, which allows you to give the room a beautiful appearance, creates a healthy atmosphere and retains heat. However, there are many different types of wood and of course the question arises, what kind of wood is better to sheathe the steam room?
For the production of finishing material for the bath, various types of wood are used. However, it is not recommended to take coniferous wood for sheathing the steam room, since it can release resin when heated strongly (read: "Finishing a steam room in a bath with your own hands - from floor to ceiling"). It is best to use such types of wood for finishing a bath as linden, larch, oak, aspen. If you really want to enjoy the coniferous aroma during bathing procedures, then you can finish with cedar material. It is durable and not resinous.
When choosing how to sheathe a steam room in a bath, you should pay attention to such points as:
When choosing which tree is better to buy for a steam room, you should pay attention to linden. Lining from such a tree is considered the most optimal material. Linden wood has low thermal conductivity, is easily processed, and releases useful essential oils.
aspen also good stuff for the steam room, as it is durable, strong and has healing properties. And another advantage is high price.
When deciding which tree to sheathe the bath inside, you can opt for larch. It has a positive effect on the human body, has a high density, strength, low thermal conductivity, does not absorb moisture. In general, this wood has all the necessary qualities and is perfect for finishing a bath.
In the steam room, as a rule, benches, shelves, headrests are installed. They are easy enough to make, so you can do it yourself. Bath furniture is recommended to be made from the same type of wood that was used for sheathing the walls of the steam room.
Now the African oak or, in other words, abashi, has become widespread.
It has such advantages as:
The disadvantage of abasha is the rather high price.
Sheathing the steam room, the lining can be mounted vertically or horizontally (for more details: "How to fix the lining in the bath - the rules and sequence of installation"). If a horizontal arrangement is chosen, then the lining should begin to be nailed from the bottom up. This technique will prevent water from seeping into the joints.
First you need to install vertical racks between which the insulating material will be laid. To do this, markup is made, which should start from the corner. The distance between internal parties racks should be 59 cm. Such a step will allow you to correctly lay the insulation of the desired thickness.
There are some peculiarities when cladding the walls of a log bath. It is quite difficult to fasten the sheathing boards in a vertical position and not everyone decides to do this work on their own. To obtain the desired result and avoid errors, it is necessary to process the side of the vertically positioned racks turned to the logs. See also: "How and with what to process the lining in the steam room - tips from practice."
To do this, you need to make a special copier. It is a thin ruler, which is pointed on one side and has holes along the entire length that match the diameter of a pencil. A stand is taken and pressed against the wall, then with the help of a copier, lines repeating the shape of the log house are drawn and drawn.
Next, the racks are processed in accordance with the drawn lines. It is enough to make sure that the rack with a step of 60 cm is tightly adjacent to the logs in several places. The vertical level must be strictly observed. The length of the contact surface should be about 2-3 cm, this will be enough. Be sure to board for the steam room is processed antiseptic.
The next step is to attach the protective membrane. This must be done from the bottom up, while each subsequent film should go onto the already fixed one by 20-30 cm. The upper edge is attached to the logs with a stapler, one of the options is selected for overlapping places: glue with tape, upholster or use self-adhesive tape. See also: "How to make a steam room in the bath correctly and beautifully."
A protective film is aligned under the racks installed in accordance with the markings. To do this, use a level or plumb line. To fix the material to the logs, galvanized screws or nails are suitable. Can be done without screws great length: a blind hole is drilled in the rack, which should be a few millimeters larger than the diameter of the screw head.
It is necessary to pull the rope from above and below the wall, it must be tied to the extreme racks. It will help align and install the internal racks.
Stretch and straighten protective film it is necessary in such a way that air does not get between the open logs. Otherwise, such a mistake will lead to the fact that both the frame and the lining of the steam room will begin to rot and deform, as a result, bath procedures will no longer benefit the body.
During the installation of the corner posts, it is necessary to immediately lay the insulation material.
Before proceeding with the finishing work, it is necessary to prepare the material that will be used to finish the steam room. Lining before fastening to the walls must be acclimatized in the room in which it will be used.
In the steam room, the floor must necessarily be higher than the floor level in other rooms. Shelves are installed about 10 cm above the heater. Benches and shelves should not have sharp corners. Inside the steam room, only natural materials should be used.
It is very important to choose which wood to sheathe the steam room with, as not all types of wood are suitable for this. You should also take into account all the features of the finish of the important premises baths, on which it depends whether the procedures taken will be useful.
To date, there are many finishing materials. However, not all of them are suitable for lining the bath from the inside.
In this article, we will look at how to sheathe a bath inside and how to do it yourself?
The main thing to remember when choosing a material for sheathing:
One of the most suitable materials is wood. Exploring the pros and cons of different types of wood, we decided that the ideal option for cladding a bath inside is a lining made of linden. It has low thermal conductivity, is easy to process, and also releases essential oils that have a beneficial effect on human health. The price for it is not much different from the price of lining from other types of wood.
First you need to prepare the necessary tools and materials during the installation process:
Attention!
In the process of warming the bath, use goggles and a respirator or other means to protect your eyes and face.
In contact with the mucous particles of the insulation cause irritation.
We fasten strips of aluminum foil for a bath horizontally with a stapler, from the bottom up, overlapping the previous strip of each next by 5-10 centimeters. We glue the joints with aluminum tape to prevent moisture from getting under the vapor barrier.
Tip: in order to avoid chips in the lining, drill small holes in the places where you will screw in the screws.
Despite all the advantages of wood, it also has disadvantages - over time, wood under the influence of moisture undergoes decay, which significantly worsens its appearance and reduces its service life. In order for the lining in the bath to please you with its beauty and durability for a long time, there are many materials to ensure the protection of wood from moisture, insects and other adverse environmental factors.
We will consider several types of wood processing products:
The most accessible means for processing is paint, but it is ineffective, and its use inside the bath is undesirable, since many types of paints break down and release harmful substances under the influence of high temperatures.
Such solutions mainly provide non-complex protection, their action is aimed at some specific protection, for example, there are agents with antiseptic properties, there are also agents for protecting wood from fire.
The most suitable, in our opinion, means is special varnish coatings, as these compounds provide comprehensive protection against insects, cracking and moisture. In addition, with the help of such a composition, it is possible to give the lining different shades without disturbing the natural wood pattern, thereby helping to achieve the desired result in the design of the bath.
So, after you have installed all the cladding elements and decided on the type of protective coating, it remains only to process them all wooden surfaces inside the bath. One of the possible results can be seen in the photo. In this article, we looked at how to sheathe a bathhouse inside with a linden clapboard.
It is not recommended to use non-natural materials for the interior decoration of the bath. High temperature and constant humidity make it necessary to use only stress-resistant types of sheathing for decoration. One of the classics is lining. You can find out how to sheathe a bath with clapboard inside by reading the article to the end. We will help the reader not only complete the interior decoration, but also show how to choose the material.
Steam room trimmed with linden clapboard, covered with heat-resistant oil 
Linden lining should lie down unpacked before finishing Lining for the interior decoration of the bath is chosen depending on the purpose of a particular room, the degree of humidity in it, the temperatures used, etc. All material is divided according to several criteria: size, what it is made of, type of wood.
You can subdivide the material by size :
According to its composition, the material is divided into: vinyl, plastic, wood and metal. For a bath, the best option is made of wood, the rest for facade decoration.
The steam room trimmed with aspen clapboard looks attractive It is important what type of wood the product is made of. For a bath, wood trim with the lowest thermal conductivity is used: linden, aspen, abachi, cedar, alder. Moreover, you can not take any cedar, but only the northern one. It has less resin and when heated, the walls and ceiling will not start to cry. Larch species have a lower density of wood and with tactile contact in the bath, the lining will be more pleasant, even at high temperatures in the steam room. Such lining is more expensive, but the costs will be justified. Each of the types under consideration is better suited for different bath rooms.
Aspen: has a beautiful reddish tint and increased moisture resistance. In terms of durability, aspen can only be compared with larch. Upon contact with water, aspen wood does not collapse, but rather hardens. It is better to use for finishing the rest room, washing department. The only negative is the high price, because of which it is not recommended to use it in the steam room and dressing room.
The original version of the steam room trimmed with lime lining Linden: Lining has become traditional for finishing the bath from the inside. Linden does not heat up at high temperatures and has a pleasant whitish color. But linden has a serious drawback - if not treated with antiseptics and protective compounds, it quickly begins to darken and rot.
Cedar lining in combination with linden looks great Cedar: This is a coniferous tree, but its structure is low density, so it is often used for baths. Cedar has excellent antiseptic properties and, when heated, gives off a pleasant smell. But it is not recommended to use it in a steam room, since there is still some percentage of resin in it.
Alder lining in the interior of the bath looks original and modern Alder: has a pleasant pinkish hue with a pleasant velvety texture. Holds temperature well and is not afraid of moisture. The baths can be used in any part.
When choosing lining for finishing a bath, it is better to take Extra or AB grade chamber drying. Since changes in temperature and humidity in the baths occur constantly, it is impossible to use material with inaccurate or curved shapes. And in higher grades this is unacceptable.
Aspen lining is sewn onto the ceiling Before finishing, you need to decide whether only the walls or the ceiling will be poured. To do this, you can see photos of finished works and stop at the design you like.
It is necessary to sheathe the bath inside starting from the ceiling. Only after this wall. But first the walls need to be waterproofed and insulated.
Scheme simple option clapboard lining of the steam room of the bath It is not necessary to insulate all the walls of the bath, especially if it is a small summer log house 3x3 m in size. In such, only the steam room is insulated. In other cases, the entire Russian bath from the inside, including the dressing room and the relaxation room.
As a heater, you need to choose a fire-resistant material, such as bosalt wool. It is better not to consider all materials like polystyrene. The insulation is attached to a pre-prepared crate od which is attached to the vapor barrier. Due to the large temperature difference, condensate can accumulate on the walls, the vapor barrier will protect the insulation.
Glassine should be fixed on top of this structure. It will play the role of waterproofing. All seams are glued with a special water-repellent glue. Then everything is covered with foil, it will reflect heat and prevent steam from escaping. You need to fasten the foil between the crate using a construction stapler or buttons with an overlap of 10-15 cm.
The walls of the bath begin to be sheathed from the opposite corner from the entrance Before fastening, the lining must be unpacked and kept in baths for 1-2 days. The fact is that manufacturers, in order to protect the material after chamber drying, pack it in an airtight film. And getting into natural environment wood absorbs moisture from the air and swells a little.
After that, you need to choose how to process the material. It is better to take the composition intended directly for baths. These contain antipyrines and moisture-resistant components.
Fasten the lining begin with ceiling finish. The first bar should be fixed opposite the door. There are two ways to fix the links in the baths:
Since the lining is thin, it is inconvenient to hammer in the whole nail with a hammer. To simplify, use a tool - doboynik
To the wall, the links must begin to be fastened from the most prominent corner to the door. Mount it in exactly the same way as on the ceiling.
A ventilated gap of 4-5 cm should remain between the lining and the walls. A gap of 3-4 cm is also left between the walls and the ceiling. In order for the air to pass well under the lining, planks are attached to the main crate. Finishing material will be attached to this second crate. Lathing step 40-50 cm. The direction is perpendicular to the fastening of the sheathing.
After fastening, the bath is thoroughly warmed up and see what happens after cooling. Incorrectly fixed links are additionally strengthened with carnations.
We examined how to do the interior decoration of the bath with a clapboard with our own hands. Observing all the technique and watching the thematic video in this article, even a beginner will be able to handle the work with his own hands.
Wood is an ideal finishing material for a bath
The Russian bath is primarily known for the presence of abundant steam inside the room. This effect occurs due to the bare log cabin without special processing. Heat retention in Ancient Russia was achieved by creating especially dense and massive walls, which, at the same time, could absorb moisture from the air and retain it for a long time. In addition, such walls were needed to transfer heat into the bath. Many heard the loud hissing of the walls, which is why various stories were born in Russia. In fact, the hissing was from the wood, which absorbed the damp steam and set in motion the condensation effect. Most people tried to build a bath from the thickest log cabin, as this provided high-quality heating.
In those days, it took a long time to melt the bath, about 4 hours. It should be remembered that wood is a hygroscopic material, which quickly becomes unusable. Then it was the cheapest and most common resource. But today everything has changed radically. A modern bath requires a special approach to wall decoration. The main goal now is a tangible reduction in heat energy costs and an acceleration of the heating time. At the moment, the finishing of the bath is most often carried out using a special material - lining. You should know how to sheathe a bath with clapboard in a quality manner so as not to have problems in the future.
The heating of a steam room with lining becomes much easier, firewood is consumed in small quantities. The only drawback is that the bath does not retain heat so well, so you have to use fuel much more often. Steam is created thanks to modern furnaces and steam generators. At the same time, it is necessary to constantly monitor its supply and control the presence of heat inside the room.
High-quality lining prevents the formation of various bacteria, mold and fungus, while controlling the level of humidity inside the bath itself. The main requirements for the material are high moisture resistance and environmental safety.
Initially, the lining for the bath was made in a quarter and in a tongue and groove. Because of this, over time, the slats shifted and the pressed joints collapsed. At the moment, almost all lining is made in the groove and in the crest.
Advice from the master!
It is important to know: in order to save money, try to search and purchase a lining of 1.5 m in length at the building materials warehouses. It costs much less than a material of 2 m. It is quite simple to process a lining with such a length in a bath. It is only necessary to sheathe the junction with a rail. At the same time, you will save a lot on building materials.
Sheathing a bath with clapboard can be carried out in 2 ways: vertical and horizontal. Most experienced bath attendants agree that it is not best idea. The reason for this is the different temperature of the wood from below and above, which will directly affect the service life of the material. Finishing the bath with clapboard horizontally will contribute to a more uniform distribution of temperature. In addition, horizontal cladding allows you to visually increase the height of the wall in a small steam room.
Benefits of horizontal bath cladding.
Please note: in the case of fastening the lining on horizontal pattern it is necessary to direct the groove downwards.
Advantages vertical plating baths.
Installation of finishing material
After weighing the advantages of each of the schemes, you can choose the most suitable option. Remember that the horizontal sheathing method will achieve the effect of a real Russian bath.
Advice from the master!
Finishing the bath clapboard vertical pattern which in turn ensures high temperatures. You will have a real sauna.
The plating procedure consists of 4 stages, each of which does not take very much time. Finishing a bath with a clapboard with your own hands is a simple process. Follow the instructions on how to properly sheathe the interior of the steam room with clapboard, and you will succeed.
Before fixing the lining inside the bath, you need to carry out preparatory work. If there are differences on the walls, it is necessary to level them with putty. Ceiling and wall coverings are treated with antifungal mixtures. Then the electrical wiring and pipeline are placed. After purchasing the lining, you need to bring it into the bathhouse and leave it there for a couple of days so that it gets used to the atmosphere of the room.
Wooden blocks are used as a frame. Their size is selected based on the density of the insulation.
Frame for lining installation
Then it is necessary to attach the bars randomly on the wall and mark points on it for mounting metal suspensions. The bars are placed in a row and the distance between them should be about 44-48 cm.
Important to know: it is desirable that the metal parts be made of galvanized iron. In the case of using other materials, traces of rust appear on the wood after a while. Wooden blocks also need to be treated with an antifungal mixture so that the lining is protected from harmful bacteria from all sides.
Holes are drilled for dowels and metal hangers are fixed. Wooden bars are attached to them. Various fastener options can be used, depending on the method of fastening the lining. Keep in mind that there should be good ventilation between the bars. Near door and window openings, the bars must be fixed vertically with an indent of 25 mm from the edges.
It is important to know: the first row of the frame should begin with longer bars, short ones are attached to the next row. The entire frame must be in the same plane. When installing, keep an eye on each row. In the case of a large drop, a material is laid under the bar, which acts as a gasket.
Before the final lining of the bath with clapboard, thermal insulation must be laid under it. It must be placed between wooden blocks. Many are accustomed to using mineral wool as a heat insulator. It is worth knowing that this type of insulation does not cope with high level humidity. It is recommended to pay attention to foam glass. This thermal insulator has good moisture repellency and copes well with heat retention. At the same time, foam glass is completely harmless to humans. In addition, vapor barrier material does not need to be laid on top of it. But if in doubt, you can use this type of insulator. It is glued on with adhesive tape.
Starting to sheath the bath from the inside, it is necessary to cut the lining. After that, you should cut off the spike at the first segment and place it in the right place.
The final stage - applying an antiseptic
Sheathing should start from the side of the corner. For strengthening, it is recommended to use clamps. First, they must be driven into the groove of the segment, and then installed in the frame. Each subsequent segment is superimposed on a part of the previous one and is also driven in.
In conclusion finishing works it is necessary to apply a protective layer on the lining segments. To do this, use oil mixtures or wax. Caring for lining lining requires special care. Solvents and abrasives must be avoided.
Advice from the master!
If the segment is severely damaged, it is necessary to change it. Do not forget to periodically update the protective layer on the surface of the lining. You can evaluate the finished bath, lined with clapboard, by examining the presented photos.
Forest, baths, log cabins, there are no problems in acquiring them, any whim for your money. Would you like a turnkey bath?
Have you decided to do the finishing of the built bath with your own hands? The choice of finishing materials is put at the forefront and the first thing that comes to mind is wood and wood products.
Following the folk wisdom “it is better to see once than hear a hundred times”, we turn to video intros. The understanding comes that there is a variety of different materials and it is simply necessary to obtain information about its properties, otherwise the bathing process, instead of pleasure, can bring disappointment.
The construction of the bath and materials for finishing the bath are made from different constituent elements that require their selection according to their quality and application.
So:
Attention: Distinctive feature the house block is served by its chamber drying, which prevents the deformation of coniferous and deciduous trees from which it is made.
For outdoor finishing works, panels made of coniferous trees(pine, spruce) or larch with a width of 130mm and above.
Installation can be divided into separate stages, instructions and technology for performing work do not cause difficulties:
Attention: To prevent the accumulation of moisture in the grooves, the block house is fastened with a spike up.
It is possible to complete the material for the interior decoration of the bath according to the climate of the bath departments. Finishing the dressing room, rest room and other rooms where there are no high temperatures can be done with pine.
It belongs to cheap, affordable, easily processed materials with a beautiful structure, an exciting smell and healing properties. Materials for finishing the steam room and washing department are selected from deciduous trees (linden or larch).
They are great for a hot bath, retain their color and do not burn the body when in contact with it. The interior of the Russian steam bath, from the point of view of contemporaries, is simple and concise.
This is what creates an inexplicable charm, attracts and makes you come back here again and again, in order to once again leave the problems and bustle of city life for a while and organically feel like a piece of nature.
So:
It is not recommended to use chipboards, paint or varnish the wood in the interior decoration of the bath.
The floor in the bath is lined with high-quality material, taking into account the characteristics of the room:
Types of wood for the dressing room, rest rooms and steam rooms:
It is pleasant to feel such a surface with bare feet and the wood perfectly retains heat.
Attention: For the manufacture of shelves, sunbeds and benches, do not use cypress and white fir wood with a heavy odor that can cause discomfort and discomfort.
Factory materials that have previously undergone heat treatment serve and operate much longer than those purchased on the occasion and on the cheap. This factor must be taken into account when buying, as well as the quality and quantity of materials used, which determine the cost of finishing the bath.
The steam room is the most important place in the bath. To enjoy staying in a steam room and to feel the maximum benefit from its effect on the body, you need the right wall decoration.
The effect of the visit will be even more enhanced if the decoration of the steam bath is done by hand.
To the question "How to finish the bath inside?" it can be unequivocally answered that the most suitable material is - special panels for wall cladding, the main advantages of which include:
The best breeds Deciduous (aspen, larch, linden, alder, ash-tree) have long been considered the initial for the manufacture of lining, since the walls of them allow the room to warm up quickly, while they themselves remain comfortable for a person in terms of temperature.
This type of material does not emit resinous substances when heated and therefore will not harm health.
Of the listed species, the most preferred (and not only for wall cladding) is larch, but it is also the most expensive material in terms of cost.
Linden lining it is desirable to process with a special composition (of course, from natural ingredients) in order to preserve its original - almost white - color.
Aspen lining due to its hardness is also good sheathing material, but experts prefer use it for ceiling and walls.
durable, resistant to decay is ash, with the help of a beautiful core of which you can achieve an attractive effect.
Alder, which has a strong, even structure and a pleasant light brown color with a peculiar pink tint, can be a worthy finishing material ( especially inside the bath, built of foam blocks).
Not advised to take birch as a starting material for lining due to its loose structure and susceptibility to drying out during harvesting.
If, for some reason, you still have to make lining from this breed, then you must take into account that it has a loose structure and in the process of preparation for use it will subject to shrinkage.
A relatively new material that professionals advise using to cover the walls in a steam room is a lining made of African oak Abash(or Abashi).
Such a coating has most valuable properties , thanks to which this material is considered almost ideal:
At this material there is only one drawback - it is quite high cost. But it is covered by those properties, which were mentioned above.
From whatever source material the lining is made, it must be preliminarily well dried and processed so that it does not have any roughness.
It is unacceptable to trim steam room coniferous species (spruce, pine). The reasons for this are as follows:
Hardwoods such as oak and walnut are not recommended. This is explained by their high heat capacity, which leads to the accumulation and retention of heat on their surface.
In the steam room, the walls of which are sheathed with clapboard made of oak or walnut, usually It's difficult to breathe. In addition, accidentally touching them can burn the skin.
Do not cover the walls in the steam room with chemical materials: varnish, stain and other similar compounds.
It's connected with harmful effects of chemicals on the human body at very high temperatures.
Basic moments interior decoration in stages:
For vapor barrier most often used aluminum foil, as well as foamed polymeric materials (polypropylene). The advantage of polymeric materials is that they simultaneously possess both vapor and thermal insulation qualities.
These foil-laminated materials not only help to maintain a high temperature in the steam room, but also resist the accumulation of dampness and the appearance of fungus.
Sequencing:
For a step-by-step guide on how to properly sheathe the walls and ceiling with clapboard, see the video instructions:
Learn more about the secrets of finishing the bath from the video below:
To perform the interior decoration of the bath, you need knowledge of the properties of wood and stone, safety requirements and minimal skills in working with wood. We will talk about the materials and types of finishes recommended for use in the bath, and the skills of a joiner and carpenter will have to be acquired along the way.
Regardless of what kind of bath you have - Russian, Finnish sauna or Turkish hammam, a bath is high temperature and high humidity. Without finishing, without isolating the walls, floor and roof, you will be forced to heat the steam room for hours, and with it the surrounding air, throwing money literally into the wind.
Due to the difference between the outside and inside temperatures, moisture will condensate on the walls, which over time will lead to the formation of fungus, mold and decay. wooden structures. If the building is made of masonry material (brick or blocks), a steam room without finishing threatens to burn when in contact with a red-hot wall. Only in the case when the bath is cut down from logs or folded from timber, can it be left without additional finishing if the thickness of the walls provides standard resistance to heat transfer. If this is not the case, we return to reading the first sentence of the paragraph.
If the bath is made of logs, complete interior decoration can be omitted
There are many requirements for the decoration of the bath in terms of safety:
The walls and floor of the bath are most often insulated with stone or basalt wool, but this is not the best option: mats and slabs mineral heaters contain a small amount of bituminous binder, which evaporates under the action of high temperature, as well as the smallest particles of fibers that cause irritation when deposited on the skin.
A safer and more economical option - foam glass insulation - avoids these disadvantages. Vapor barrier is performed with aluminum foil or foiled polyurethane foam, which belongs to the group of non-combustible materials and will serve as an additional heat insulator.
The interior decoration of different rooms in the bath performs different tasks, in accordance with them, and choose the type of finish.
| room | Peculiarities | Type of finish | ||
| Floor | Walls | Ceiling | ||
| steam room | High temperature - fire protection of wood is required. Humidity - impregnation with antiseptic and fungicide is required | Ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware with waterproofing, hardwood flooring, drainage | Hardwood cladding, stone or brick cladding at the heater | Hardwood false ceiling |
| washing | Humidity - materials are needed that allow periodic washing of surfaces | Ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware with non-slip surface, drainage | Tiling or finishing with materials that allow wet cleaning | moisture resistant painting or suspended ceiling |
| Restroom | No requirements | Wood or underfloor heating with tiles | No requirements | No requirements |
For steam room cladding, it is better to use hardwood, which does not emit resin when heated. When choosing a material for wall cladding, one must remember that a bath is not only pleasant, but also useful. Inhaling phytoncides secreted by a heated tree into the steam room, we increase the body's resistance to colds, and heal the respiratory tract.
| Type of wood | Advantages | Flaws |
| Oak | Sturdy wood, durable, great looks | Slips when wet, high price |
| Ash | Durable wood with beautiful pattern, resistant to decay | High price |
| Birch | Light pleasant aroma | It is susceptible to decay, does not hold its shape well at high temperatures |
| Linden | It has a pleasant color, heating up, exudes delicate fragrance, resistant to rot and high temperatures, affordable | Not |
| Aspen | Low price, light pleasant aroma | Subject to rotting, over time changes color to dirty gray |
| Alder | Beautiful appearance, reasonable price, odorless, does not absorb odors, durable | Not |
If you are interested in a budget option for finishing - choose alder, if there are no cost restrictions, then the best option is ash.
Bath, trimmed with ash clapboard, will look prestigious and expensive
For lovers of coniferous smells, a combined finish can be offered: where contact with the skin is possible, we make hardwood finishes, and, for example, we sheathe the space under the shelves with cedar, larch or pine.
For lining the wall section near the heater, it is necessary to choose a material with high heat capacity and thermal conductivity, which ensures maximum accumulation and uniform heat transfer. The structure of the stone must be homogeneous so that it does not explode when water enters. Stones are selected round or oval with a smooth surface for free air circulation, optimal size- from 5 to 21 cm. Another requirement is environmental safety: when heated, they should not emit harmful substances.
| Mineral | Properties |
| Gabbro - diabase | Gabbro - diabase is the most affordable and popular option. The stone is dark gray, almost black in color with low water absorption, excellent heat capacity and very durable. Unfortunately, with strong heating, it emits an unpleasant odor, and when essential oil enters, it forms carbon deposits on the surface. |
| Soapstone | Talcochlorite is durable, strong, has excellent heat capacity, it comes in colors from light gray to cherry. In order to exclude dusting, the stones are washed and calcined before the first use. It has a pleasant, light steam with a healing effect: it reduces pressure, heals the respiratory system and skin. Negative characteristic - high price. |
| Basalt | Basalt is the hardest stone of all volcanic rocks. He only has positive characteristics- it is strong, durable, has a large heat capacity, tolerates temperature changes perfectly, does not emit harmful substances. I am pleased with the availability even the price. |
| Jade | Jadeite is a semi-precious stone, so do not be surprised at the high price of this mineral. The color from white through emerald green to black makes it attractive in appearance, and its medicinal properties were appreciated even in ancient China. An excellent choice for people who care about their health. |
| Crimson quartzite | Raspberry quartzite, just like jadeite, is attractive in appearance with its bright color and has excellent operational qualities - hardness, durability, heat resistance, low water absorption and environmental safety. It perfectly tolerates high temperatures, you can pour water on it without fear of an “explosion”. When buying, you should avoid split stones, as they will continue to crumble. |
| white quartz | White quartz is not very durable and does not tolerate high temperatures, but due to its spectacular appearance belongs to the most expensive stones: this translucent mineral consists of silicon and oxygen molecules, and when heated, it releases ozone, which makes the steam room with it especially useful. |
The ceiling in the steam room above the heater, as well as the wall behind it and the floor around it, requires protection with fireproof material. Above the heater, you can make a plot false ceiling from soapstone slab. Soapstone is a versatile material for heater stones, floor and ceiling wall cladding. A more budget option is a metal sheet above the stove, the foundation and wall cladding of solid, well-fired bricks.
Soapstone can be used not only as a material for stones, but also as a wall and ceiling decoration behind the heater
The floor in the steam room is made of concrete or ceramic tiles, with waterproofing and a drain for draining water. Hardwood flooring is laid on top.
A washing room with open shower screens requires the installation of channels, drains and a moisture-resistant finish: facing with ceramic tiles or other durable and moisture-resistant material that can withstand elevated temperatures.
If it is planned to install individual shower cabins, such a finish is not required, you can sheathe the walls with clapboard, paint them or plaster them with moisture-resistant decorative plaster.
In order for water not to affect the frame of the sink, it is tiled
It is desirable to perform floors with heating. The tile should be with a rough surface, excluding slippage. It is undesirable to make an oak floor in wet rooms, as it is very slippery when wet. A coating of coniferous wood is welcome, especially larch, as the most resistant to decay.
The area of the floor near the font, where significant spills of water are possible, is best made of ceramic tiles with a ladder.
The ceiling of the washing room will have to be washed periodically, respectively, the material must withstand processing detergents: larch lining, metal rack or cassette suspended ceilings.
The rest room has no restrictions on decoration, with the exception of a warm floor - it's always nice to walk barefoot on warm wood. The rest of the interior design depends on the taste and requirements of the owner of the bath.
In this steam room, the woodshed serves interesting element interior 
Soft diffused light and heat from a brick Russian stove will create an unforgettable experience of visiting the bath 
Protective lampshades made of rails protect the lamps from mechanical influences and create directed streams of light 
It is very comfortable to take bath procedures in a small steam room 
The interior of the steam room is very decorated with a combined layout of lining made of different types of wood. 
A steam room for a large company should be heated by a high-powered heater
In order for the bath to be beautiful, you need to choose reliable and high-quality Decoration Materials and mount them in accordance with the specifics of the premises described in the previous sections.
The choice that takes into account the size of the building, personal taste and financial component will be optimal for each owner of the bath. In order not to make a mistake when buying material, you must first:
To determine the need for materials, it is necessary to know the surface area to be finished. All calculations are done in meters.
For the floor and ceiling, multiply the length of the room by its width. To get the area of the walls, we calculate the perimeter of the room: add the length and width and multiply by two. The product is multiplied by the height of the ceilings. From the result we subtract the area of doors and windows, if any.
In rooms with complex combined finishes, the area of each section is calculated separately.
When choosing a material, it is necessary to pay attention first of all to the quality of the goods.
For example, here is the specification of the material for finishing the steam room:
In the same way, the need for wood is calculated for the remaining rooms.
For calculation paintwork materials the surface area should be multiplied by the paint consumption, which is usually given on the package in liters per square meter. The product will show how many liters of paint you need to buy.
All goods must be bought with a margin of 10%, taking into account the tolerance for waste and defects in work.
To finish the bath with your own hands you will need:
Work is carried out after laying electrical wiring and ventilation ducts starting from the floor. The floor of the steam room is raised 10-15 cm above the level of adjacent rooms. After the clean floor is laid, proceed to the decoration of the walls. The ceiling is completed last.
A frame made of wooden beams is mounted on the walls and ceiling
On the heat-reflecting layer, a counter-lattice is mounted under the finish coating
Wall cladding. The lining is attached to the frame in accordance with the selected layout. Nails are hammered into the grooves so that they are not visible on the finish. Nail the plinth.
For finishing the premises in the bath, you can choose different types of wood with different shades of color.
Installation of the false ceiling frame. To the floor logs or to the walls of the 100x50 timber with a vertical orientation, the frame of the false ceiling is attached. The distance between the bars should correspond to the width of the insulation board minus 5 mm for the spacer.
The ceiling installation is started after the wall cladding
Installation of heat-reflecting material. Foil or foil material is fixed in the same way as on the walls.
Clapboard ceiling lining. It is carried out similarly to wall upholstery. The section of the ceiling above the stove-heater is protected by non-combustible material: sheet of stainless steel or board material. Attached ceiling plinth.
A foil vapor barrier is attached to the insulation, and then a lining is nailed to the finished crate
Having become acquainted with the requirements for the premises of the bath and having studied information about correct execution finishing, you have received the necessary theoretical knowledge. The work does not require special professional skills and is within the power of any homeowner.
