Both the construction of new housing and major repairs in a house or apartment involve a considerable amount of electrical work. This includes organizing the introduction of a common power supply line, creating a grounding loop and potential equalization, installing a distribution board with an energy meter, laying in-house electrical networks and distribution boxes, and, finally, installing lighting devices and custom electrical fittings - switches and sockets.
By and large, this, of course, is a task for electrical specialists. However, many works can be carried out independently, provided that you home handyman there are basic concepts in the field of physics, electrical engineering, organization of internal electrical networks and skills in general construction and electrical installation work. But it is also very important to know where exactly to place and at what height to install sockets and switches. There is a lot of debate on this issue, but there are still certain official rules and unofficial recommendations that need to be understood in more detail.
It should be noted right away that finding exact uniform standards for the height of installation of switches and sockets is quite difficult, for the simple reason that they do not exist. Some references to existing “European standards” are just a desire to copy the established fashionable trend of “European renovation”, the established tradition of installing electrical appliances in Western Europe.
By the way, installation standards existed for some time - it was they that guided builders when constructing residential buildings of mass multi-story buildings. Then all sockets were placed at a height of 900 ÷ 1000 mm from the floor surface (on level lowered hand), and switches - 1600 ÷ 1700 mm (at level eye). In most apartments old building Such wiring can still be seen today. Many homeowners are accustomed to it, consider it convenient and have no intention of changing it.
What explains these parameters is difficult to say now. Perhaps this was caused by safety reasons - all sockets with wires coming from them are always in the field of view of residents, and children cannot reach the switches. On the other hand, the most dangerous points - sockets - remain accessible to children, and there are no special safety considerations in this, but a child under 8 ÷ 10 years old cannot put out the light on his own. Other probable cause such an installation was always carried out in rooms on top of the walls, and such placement of switches and sockets made it possible to significantly save on cables (on the scale of mass construction carried out in those years, the savings were serious).
However, today the accepted European standards are more in use, rather than the traditions of installing these elements of electrical fittings. What are they?
Some construction reference books give the following recommendations(taking into account planning at the stage of building a house):
How is this convenient? Sockets and included power cables are not noticeable and do not spoil the appearance of the room, and you can turn the light on or off with your hand down. It is possible to teach children to be independent (with adult supervision, of course) - the switch is within their reach .
It’s worth mentioning right away that such “standards” exist only for ordinary living rooms. In other places, for example, in kitchens, the rules will be completely different - this will be discussed below.
There are special requirements for installing sockets and switches in institutions associated with children - in schools, kindergartens, etc. There, in order to avoid uncontrolled actions of children with electricity by teachers or educators, these fittings are installed equally high - at a height of no lower than 1800 mm.
So, if we talk only about the installation height of sockets in residential premises, then any owner of an apartment or house has three options:
1 — When making repairs, do not change the location of sockets or switches, or carry out the initial installation according to the usual “Soviet standards” if this seems more convenient and safer.
2 — Redesign the arrangement of the fittings elements according to the European traditions, which were mentioned above.
3 — Provide your own location based on personal preferences and convenience - this in no way contradicts the existing rules.
There are significantly more restrictions and recommendations for other installation parameters - they are set out in the current operating rules for electrical installations (PUE), and they must be taken into account:
Special socket placed on the baseboard - right at floor level 
The optimal solution for apartments where young children live - sockets with protective curtains 
To finish the issue with the bathroom, you can add that you should not install sockets close to the floor surface. “Design” does not play a special role in such conditions, and it will be more convenient to use a hairdryer, curling iron or electric razor from an outlet located at a height of one or even one and a half meters. In this case, placing an outlet above the washbasin is absolutely excluded.
In any case, no matter how the electrical fittings are located, it will be necessary to replace the old sockets with new ones, the so-called “European format”. Their hole diameter is 0.8 mm wider than the old domestic ones, and the distance between the contact pins of the corresponding plug is also slightly wider. Such sockets can withstand much larger loads - usually they are designed for currents of 10 or 16 A, respectively, for a load of 2.2 kW or 3.5 kW, respectively. (For comparison, old sockets withstood 6 A, that is, only 1.3 kW, which in the conditions of modern saturation of human life with electrical appliances is clearly not enough).
In addition, if there are no outlets connected to the old location ground loop- you will have to deal with this closely - most modern electrical appliances have three-pin plugs with grounding to ensure the safety of users (for some powerful household appliances connection to ground loop is simply a prerequisite). Several are in a special publication on our portal.
Sockets, switches and frames
Once done general repairs, then it is worth checking the cable part - if the wiring is aluminum, it is recommended to replace it with copper, with a cross-sectional area of at least 1.5 mm². This cross section should be sufficient for fairly high currents. True, if you plan to install high-power household appliances, it will be necessary to lay more powerful lines.
| Core cross-section copper wire, mm² | maximum current at long-term load, A | maximum power load, kW | rated current actuation circuit breaker, A | current limit actuation circuit breaker, A | scope of application at home (apartments) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1.5 | 19 | 4.1 | 10 | 16 | lighting, alarm devices |
| 2.7 | 27 | 5.9 | 16 | 25 | socket blocks, floor heating systems |
| 4 | 38 | 8.3 | 25 | 32 | HVAC equipment, water heaters, washing machines and dishwashers |
| 6 | 46 | 10.1 | 32 | 40 | electric stoves and electric ovens |
| 10 | 70 | 15.4 | 50 | 63 | power input lines |
It probably makes sense to dwell a little on the correct placement of electrical wiring.
Each outlet (or outlet block) must be powered from its own junction box 
After some time, and this happens quite quickly, the location of such non-standard wiring is forgotten even by its masters. Moreover, this will be a “surprise” for the new owners of the apartment. When trying, for example, to harmlessly hang a mirror or shelf, there is a high probability of hitting a drill on a live power line with all the sad consequences - a short circuit and the need for large-scale wiring repairs.
If you plan to screed, then corrugated plastic pipes are sufficient If the wiring is flooded concrete screed, then it is usually placed in a corrugated plastic pipe.
There is no specific answer. You can find recommendations - install them 1 piece at 6 ÷ 10 square meters area. However, apparently, these “standards” are somewhat outdated, since the equipment of housing with electrical appliances is constantly growing. Therefore, it is probably advisable to think in advance about the placement of the main instruments and devices, to set a certain reserve in order to exclude in the future the use of all kinds of tees or extension cords. It is best if a plan is drawn up in advance with a fully thought-out arrangement of household items and the location of power points.
A well-designed diagram will be of great help in carrying out electrical installation work. If you plan, then it is better to refer to a special publication on our portal, in which this issue is presented in more detail.
Cables and wires for construction and repair
The kitchen is a special room for many reasons. Firstly, in terms of the degree of humidity and saturation with evaporation, it differs significantly from all other rooms. And secondly, modern kitchen– this is the center of maximum concentration of all kinds of household appliances. Many electrical appliances are used simultaneously during cooking or other household operations, so the level of total load is usually the highest here.
The table below shows the characteristics of the main kitchen electrical appliances - you can estimate the level of energy consumption when performing certain household tasks. If you consider that many of them require separate power lines, then you can imagine how many connection points need to be equipped in the kitchen (it is clear that tees in such conditions absolutely unacceptable and pose a serious fire hazard):
| Type of household electrical appliance | Average power consumption | Features of connecting to power supply |
|---|---|---|
| Electric stove or hob | from 3500 to 12000 W | Individually routed power line |
| Electric oven | from 2500 to 10000 W | similarly |
| Washing machine | from 1500 to 3000 W | similarly |
| Water heater | from 2500 to 7000 W | similarly |
| Dishwasher | from 1500 to 3500 W | similarly |
| Microwave | from 700 to 2500 W | Can be connected to a regular 16 A outlet |
| Refrigerator (peak value - only at start-up) | from 500 to 2000 W | similarly |
| Electric kettle | from 700 to 1500 W | similarly |
| Kitchen processor | from 500 to 1500 W | similarly |
| Bread maker, steamer, etc. | from 700 to 2000 W | similarly |
| Toaster | up to 1000 W | similarly |
| Kitchen hood | from 500 to 1500 W | similarly |
| Waste shredder | from 400 to 1000 W | similarly |
Obviously, a lot of sockets are needed. In addition, it makes sense to think about installing several additional switches - for example, for the one installed in kitchen sink waste shredder and for additional lighting of the workspace in the area of the cutting table, stove, sink.
Here there can be no talk about any standards for the installation height of sockets - their location should be Firstly, provide convenience, the ability to access when such a need arises, safety of use, maximum protection from moisture, for stationary equipment - concealed placement of wiring. There can be many options here - one of them is shown in the figure:
It is clear that there are many options for placing built-in equipment, and if we add to this the variety of desktop electrical appliances and the features of their use (for example, there are housewives who whose favorite kitchen accessories are constantly “registered” on the desktop), then, most likely, the spirit of absolutely identical schemes will not be found. Therefore, there can be no copying here - the plan for placing the equipment and laying out the wiring to it is drawn up by each owner individually, but taking into account general principles.
An important condition is that the total power of all lines supplied to the kitchen should, with a large margin, ensure the possibility of simultaneous inclusion of all points of consumption. In practice, of course, this should not be allowed under any circumstances, but insurance is still necessary.
Various models power outlets for 32 and even 40 amperes - used for high-power household appliances — On the wall, high up no higher than 100 mm from the floor level - this will allow you to place these fittings behind a standard removable furniture plinth.
- In kitchen cabinets - provided that this piece of furniture does not have retractable or folding elements - shelves, drawers, brackets, etc., which could snag an electrical cable.
- On the walls under the sink - at the maximum possible distance from water supply and sewer pipes. In this case, the outlet must be sealed with a moisture-proof cover.
— On the wall above the kitchen cabinets. There are usually sockets for range hoods, additional lighting devices, and sometimes for a built-in microwave or refrigerator. The height of the sockets in this case is no less than 50 mm above the level top surface closet
Instead of such wall-mounted placement of socket blocks, special retractable or folding modules have now begun to be actively used - in the form of opening “books” or “columns” with sockets that slide up to connect.
Hidden socket block in the form of an opening “book” It’s very convenient - the wall surface is “clean” and appears only when needed, and even when using the device, the connection point is removed from the table surface.
Another option for hidden placement of sockets is a rising “column” What other principles should be taken into account when placing sockets:
When planning the installation of power lines in the kitchen, of course, you should proceed from the actual characteristics of household appliances. It would probably be better to contact an electrical engineering organization - specialists should help draw up a project taking into account all the nuances and safety requirements. Based on this diagram, it will be possible to draw up a drawing with the placement of sockets “on the ground” - to determine the places for making sockets building in the wall and cutting out grooves for them.
It is possible that it will be possible to save some money on laying lines. For example, if the total power of the washing machine and dishwasher does not exceed 4 kW, then they can be “placed” on the same power line with a wire with a cross-section of 2.5 mm². Often one line is enough for a refrigerator and a specific outlet group. However, conclusions should still be drawn by a professional in this matter.
The location of power supply points, the installation height of sockets and switches is a serious issue that requires planning, drawing up diagrams, and calculating their number for each room.
If you approach the installation with advance planning, you won’t have to unwind the extension cord, trip over the carrier, and plug everything in there, thereby overloading the outlet or even the network.
Our material will help you determine the optimal amount of electrical fittings and the rules for their location. We will also tell you about all the intricacies of placing and installing electrical points in an apartment or house.
It is estimated that each person uses approximately six different electrical appliances per day. And the number is constantly growing. New devices and gadgets are appearing, without which it is difficult to imagine life.
Appliances fill our homes, but the number of outlets remains unchanged. Cases when a person runs around the house or office in a panic, looking for a free connector to charge a smartphone, are happening more and more often. What's the end result? You have to turn off the printer or something else.
To avoid similar situations It’s not difficult, you just need to know how to position the connectors correctly. Then using them will become as comfortable as possible.
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We must not forget that products may be subject to even greater danger. Since the bathroom is at risk of flooding, fixing products below 150 mm from the floor is completely unsafe. If water gets into the socket, the threat to life is simply colossal.
The reasons for this may be various situations, from a leaking faucet or pipe, to breakdown of household appliances or forgetfulness of the owners.
Home theater or simple, or better than two. The first is for the TV receiver itself, and the second is for the satellite receiver. The height level should be determined based on the location of the TV itself. It can stand on a cabinet, be mounted into a wall, or fit into a special cell of a furniture wall.
The power cord must not dangle or be under tension. It should be completely hidden behind the screen.
Every year, more and more intelligent technology is being developed to ensure human comfort and time. Naturally, the amount of equipment, and therefore in some places, is simply off scale. It is imperative to provide for the connection of a hood, possibly a washing machine, dishwasher, or electric stove.
But the main thing is a refrigerator, a microwave oven or a slow cooker, sometimes both. Mixer, juicer, food processor, toaster, blender, coffee maker and TV - this list is probably endless.
Placement of electrical fittings in residential buildings, public buildings and industrial premises must correspond to their comfortable and safe use. At the same time, the installation points of switches and sockets on walls indoors should be at a safe distance from powerful electrical appliances. One of important parameters placement of fittings on the wall is the installation height of sockets and switches from the floor.
It is unlikely that anyone will confirm the existence of any strict standards for the installation of sockets and switches. IN regulatory list there are two documents that address this issue - these are the Code of Rules for the design and installation of electrical installations - SP 31-110-2003 and the Rules for the Construction of Electrical Installations - PUE-7.
This documentation provides advisory advice on the installation height of sockets and switches. The same applies to the myth about the existence of some kind of “solid European standard” in this regard. In old houses built during the Soviet era, certain standards were followed for the placement of sockets and switches at a height from the floor of the room.
In Russia, public buildings use an electrical network with a voltage of 220 - 240 volts. This is explained by the fact that the current does not exceed 16 A. The sockets are used to connect household and office equipment. Typically, the fittings have two sockets (0 and phase). To connect powerful consumers (up to 3.5 kW), an additional grounding terminal is installed in the socket housings.
Sockets are distinguished by type of installation:
Overhead fittings are used for external electrical wiring. These types of housings are used in rooms with wiring located on the surface of the wall enclosure. External laying of wires is arranged in rooms with wooden walls or in rented offices. The new tenant seeks to adapt the electrical wiring to his needs. Conducting external wiring is much easier than ditching a wall and making redecorating premises.
The base of the socket has mounting holes for screws or dowels. Having secured the terminal pad, wires are connected to it. Then screw the socket housing. Overhead devices are usually manufactured in a single design.
Socket terminal for hidden wiring placed in a box recessed into the wall. Round holes are drilled or punched in the wall with a hammer drill, into which boxes with wires are inserted. In addition to the two wires of the electrical network, a third ground wire can be connected.
Accessory bodies may have several pairs of detachable holes. There are single rosettes on sale that can be grouped by placing them in a common decorative frame.
Such groups of electrical connectors are installed both horizontally and vertically. In addition to these types of recessed connectors, there are remote sockets. By appearance they are no different from conventional built-in models. A special feature of the remote design is that a coil of wire is hidden in the wall. The connector is removed from the socket and pulled out to the required length - up to 3 meters or more.
The retail chain offers sockets with different additional functions- cases with backlight, plug ejector, moisture-proof cover and others.
In addition, sockets are equipped with protective shutdown devices that turn off the power when an unauthorized power leak is detected. Fittings with a timer turn off the current supply at a specified time. This is convenient for connecting heaters and other household appliances without your own device. The power outlet can display on its panel the amount of energy consumed in watts.
There are designs with a locking device that close the contact holes. They are used where small children may be. The accessories may have a USB input for charging gadgets.
The groups of connectors include sockets with sockets for connecting cable Internet and TV signals. Such structures are also installed in single versions.
Household switches, together with sockets, make up a complex of electrical equipment in residential and public buildings.
Depending on the installation method, switches can be surface-mounted or built-in. Installation of devices occurs in the same way as installation of sockets.
Considering the entire range of switches on the electrical market, you can distinguish devices based on their operating principle:
The most common devices are key switches. They are easy to use. Their external form can be of different designs. Standard devices are manufactured in the form of one-, two- and three-key designs. With their help, you can turn on certain groups of light bulbs in ceiling and wall hanging lamps lighting fixtures(chandeliers, sconces). Installing and replacing switches of this type is easy and simple.
These devices have not been produced for a long time. They can be found in old houses and industrial premises. It should be noted that rotary switches tolerate high levels of humidity well and practically do not break. The design of the devices leaves much to be desired. Their work is accompanied by loud clicks.
The principle of the device is that a microswitch is installed under the key. The light is turned on by silently pressing your finger on the top panel of the device.
Switches with motion sensors are installed in passage rooms (corridors, staircases). They can be rectilinear, with a large viewing angle, and circular - with a 360o view.
The device has a timer that allows you to set the time to turn on the light. The use of such devices brings significant savings in energy costs and significantly extends the service life of light bulbs.
A built-in microcircuit under the top panel of the switch is activated when you lightly touch the surface of the device with your hand. The use of such devices eliminates the occurrence of short circuits, which increases the service life of the lamps.
A receiver of infrared radiation connected to the relay is mounted in the switch body. The sent signal in the form of an infrared spectrum beam from the control panel “forces” the relay to open or close the contacts.
The range of the remote control is from 20 to 25 meters. Using this system, lighting can be controlled from anywhere in the room.
The switches are equipped with sensors that respond to the degree of natural light in the room. When twilight or cloudy weather begins, the sensor sends a signal to the relay. The reverse process occurs when intense natural lighting of the interior space is restored.
Knowing the specific structure of electrical fittings, you can plan their location in height from the floor. The approximate position of the electrical fittings also depends on the purpose of the room. All heights of electrical devices are the distance from the floor to the center of the front panel of the fittings.
The room can be a hall with an entrance door. The switch is best located in close proximity to front door. The height from the floor should correspond to the level of the door lock handle. This usually equates to a height of 80 - 90 cm from the floor. When entering and leaving an apartment or house, a person’s hand moves at the same height of the handle and switch. Even in the dark you can quickly turn on the light.
Keyboard, point, touch or motion sensor switches are installed in the corridor. A device with a motion sensor is installed under the ceiling.
As for the outlet, it is installed in the corridor to connect the vacuum cleaner. To prevent the cord from sagging, the socket is placed at a height of 150 - 200 mm from the floor. If the corridor is quite long, then two power points are installed.
In the living room, the overhead lighting switch is installed at a height of 80 cm from the floor. If a chandelier with five light bulbs hangs on the ceiling, then two-position switches are used to vary the lighting intensity of the room. One key turns on three lamps, and the other lights up the other two lamps.
Models of switches for the living room can be keyboard, point, or touch. In the halls large sizes Dimmers are often installed.
There may be several sockets in the living room, depending on the number electrical appliances and equipment. The power point is hidden behind the body of a TV, stereo system, etc. If the equipment is installed on a table or on a furniture shelf, the socket is placed at the height of the device.
It is convenient to plug a floor lamp or vacuum cleaner into an outlet at a height of 150 - 200 mm from the floor. The air conditioner is connected to the power point at its level indoor unit. As a last resort, the socket is placed behind the body upholstered furniture. The height of the power point can be set at the discretion of the homeowner.
Bedside tables are usually placed on both sides of the head of double furniture. Sconces are placed above them. For convenience, sockets are installed above each bedside table. If the standard height of bedside furniture is approximately 53 - 55 cm from the floor, then the connection point is placed slightly above the surface of the cabinet at a level of 60 - 65 cm from the floor.
Double sockets are installed so that you can connect lighting and Charger phone or laptop at the same time. The connectors are used for temporary connection of household appliances such as an iron or vacuum cleaner.
They rarely use overhead lights in the bedroom, so I install the switch at the same height as in the hallway. For overhead lighting, all types of switches are used, except dimmers and motion sensors.
The overhead lighting key switch is installed at a standard height - 80-90 cm from the floor. The socket is placed above the table at a height of 70–80 cm from the floor. To protect the child from accidental electric shock, the socket is installed with a locking device.
The height of the table with built-in cabinets and drawers is 85–87 cm. Blocks of sockets are installed above the table. The number of connectors in the block depends on the power needs of several kitchen electrical appliances (electric kettle, food processor, coffee grinder, etc.). To prevent appliance cords from bending sharply, sockets are placed at a height of 160–170 mm from the table surface. The socket for the refrigerator is installed at the rear of the unit body - at a height of 900 mm.
The kitchen overhead lighting switch is installed outside in the hallway at a standard height from the floor (80 - 90 cm). Mount switches of key, point and touch type.
Above the sink, on the side of the mirror, at a height of 80 cm from the floor, install one or two sockets for an electric razor, hair dryer and hood fan.
For a Jacuzzi and a vertical shower, sockets are placed at a height of 50 to 80 cm from the floor. Sockets must have moisture-proof covers.
I install a key switch or another type outside the bathroom at a standard height of 800–900 mm.
Before arranging furniture and household appliances, you need to develop a design for electrical wiring in the premises of a new house or apartment being renovated.
It is necessary to establish the horizontal and vertical dimensions of the position of sockets and switches. In each case, determine the models and types of R&V.
It is useful to create a specification for electrical fittings. This will help you navigate when purchasing R&V - both in model and price format
If there are small children in the house, take this circumstance into account when determining the height of the location of certain RiV models.
Motion sensors and dimmers can significantly save your energy bill.
The structure of the vertical fences of the premises will help you choose the type of installation of power supply devices - overhead or built-in R&V.
The choice of installation height for sockets and switches affects not only the safety of residents, but also ensures a comfortable stay in the house or apartment. The choice of height of sockets and switches can be correlated with the “European standard” or other requirements, the main thing is that the installation height meets the two above-mentioned conditions - safety and comfort.
The issue of placement of sockets and switches is a matter of ease of use of the entire power supply system at home. When doing repairs, you should immediately think about at what height and where all the switches and sockets will be located so that they can be used as conveniently as possible.
Choosing a variety of switches and sockets is not a problem today. The choice is great - for every budget, from the most simple devices to “smart”, with additional functions. It remains to determine the optimal height for the location of electrical fittings so that it meets the principles of ergonomics and convenience for all inhabitants of the house without exception.
Let us immediately note that there are no strict rules regarding the height of sockets and switches. There is SP 31-110-2003 “Design and installation of electrical installations of residential and public buildings”, but it focuses more on basic standards artificial lighting certain premises. In particular, the document states that if the corridor is longer than 10 meters, it must have two light control sources. Regarding the height of the location, it is indicated that it is advisable to place sockets and switches at a height of up to 1 meter.
Important! If sockets can and should be placed in each room on different heights, then you should select one for all switches. In this case, the devices must have a single switching position. This is explained simply - a person gets used to turning on the light in each room with the same movement of his hand and does it in the future without thinking. Therefore, the same arrangement of switches is as convenient as possible - even in an unfamiliar room you can control the light instinctively.
So, to summarize - all switches should be located at the same height in each room. The optimal height from the floor is 90 centimeters. It is at this height that door handles are traditionally located. Ideally, the switches are located on the handle side interior door. In this case, opening the door to the room right hand, you can turn on the left light at the same time. And vice versa. No unnecessary movements or inconveniences.
An exception is the bedside lamp switches - in this case it is important that you can reach them with your hand without getting out of bed. The location of switches-chains of sconces and floor lamps is regulated by the placement of the light sources themselves.
Important! Children's question. If the switch is located low, 90 centimeters from the floor, some are afraid that the child will play with it, simply “click”, admiring the blinking lights. Remember that at 5-6 years old, even earlier, children already understand perfectly well why switches are needed and will not just touch them. And the electrical fittings themselves are designed for a service life of up to 50 years. You don’t want to change the location of the switches in 5 years? Or do you have to follow your baby for the first few years and turn on the lights because he simply can’t reach the control panel? Do everything at once to suit adult needs, including sockets. It is better to buy protection for a child for the first time, the simplest plugs, for example, than to later change the location of the devices and make new repairs.
If we have decided on the height of the switches, then with sockets everything is more complicated. This question depends on what exactly, where exactly, you will include. That’s why it’s so important to understand at the beginning of the renovation where the furniture will be, where there will be a computer desk, a TV, an ironing board, and a place to charge gadgets. Only in this case will it be possible to place all sockets at the optimal height.
For example, on kitchen apron According to experts, there should be at least three sockets. In one place or in different places - it's up to you. The standard height of sockets is from kitchen countertop- 8-10 centimeters.
As you can see, you can also place sockets in the kitchen work area at the top, under the cabinets. But dangling wires can be annoying and unsightly. It is advisable to hide sockets for the refrigerator and oven behind the household appliances themselves. Typically, these devices are constantly connected, the outlet is rarely used, so it is better if it is not conspicuous.
Important! According to safety requirements, it is not recommended to place sockets in the bathroom and toilet below 1 meter from the floor. They should be separated from the washbasin by 20-30 centimeters. However, many people hide the socket for washing machine with a standard height of 85 centimeters behind it. Or they place sockets under the sink, behind cabinet doors. In any case, it is advisable to choose sockets with a screen to protect them from moisture.
The standard height of sockets for extension cords, iron, vacuum cleaner is 25-30 centimeters from the floor. At the same height, it is advisable to place sockets under the desk to connect the computer system unit. If sockets are needed above a chest of drawers, a cabinet, or a desk, they should be separated from the tabletop by 10-15 centimeters.
We state: unlike the location of switches, we cannot give you clear, unambiguous recommendations at what height you should install sockets in each room. It all depends on the number of household appliances, their location, and the needs of the family. Use our recommendations, think about the location of furniture and appliances, and only then will you find the answer to the question about the optimal height of sockets.
They strive to organize electrical wiring so that it is safe and easy to use.
To do this, you should decide what the optimal height from the floor is, as well as.
Regulatory documents covering issues of organizing power supply, such as PUE-7 (“Rules for Electrical Installations”) and others, do not contain general requirements regarding heights and switches.
Therefore, in most cases, the assignment of these parameters is left to the discretion of the object owner. IN special cases The following rules apply.
Clause 7.1.50 PUE-7:
Code of rules for the design of residential and public buildings SP 31-110-2003, section “Design and installation of electrical installations of residential and public buildings, clause 14.33”:
GOST R 50571.11-96 (IEC 364-7-701-84) “Electrical installations of buildings”, part 7 “Requirements for special electrical installations”, section 701 “Bathrooms and shower rooms”. The document considers the installation of electrical sockets and switches in the specified premises. These requirements are taken into account when laying electrical wiring in any rooms with high humidity.
Installation height of sockets and switches according to GOST and PUE
SP 76.13330.2016 (SNiP 3.05.06-85) “Electrical devices”:
In the general case, when the electrification facility is not mentioned in the above documents, the USSR has developed the practice of installing electrical installation equipment at heights:
In common parlance, this installation method is called the “Soviet standard”.
The word “standard” does not imply a normative document, but an established tradition.
Since the 90s when performing major repairs V existing houses and during the construction of new ones, sockets and switches began to be installed en masse, following the example of Western European countries:
This installation method is called “European standard”. Like “European-quality renovation”, it is conditional. Contrary to popular belief, it is impossible to talk about the absolute superiority of the European standard over the Soviet one. Everyone has their own strengths. According to the European standard, switches are installed at a height of 0.9 m.
The location at a height of 0.9 m is convenient for the following reasons:
Sockets are placed at a distance of 0.3 m from the floor. The wire of the connected device does not block the space near the wall, but lies almost entirely on the floor. The Soviet standard provides for installation of switches at a height of 1.6-1.7 m.
Advantages of installing switches at a height of 1.6-1.7 m:
Differences between Soviet and European standards for installing switches
Sockets are mounted 0.9-1 meters from the floor. Advantages:
The given rules are general. But some areas of houses and apartments have their own laws.
There are requirements of PUE-7 that are relevant for this premises.
When installing electrical points minimum distance should be:
This exhausts the requirements of regulatory documents regarding the kitchen. But there are other rules dictated by life experience and common sense.
The kitchen is divided vertically into three zones, this is due to two factors:
These vertical zones are:
Built-in socket blocks mounted in a countertop or cabinet are very convenient. The unit connects to an outlet on the wall (in the lower zone) and works similar to an extension cord with several outlet sockets. When not needed, it slides under the countertop or into a cabinet, so that only the elegant lid remains on the surface.
When designing electrical wiring in a bathroom, due to high humidity- safety should always be a priority:
For a washing machine, you can make an exception - install the socket slightly lower. The rest is guided by personal preferences and ease of use.
Installation height of sockets and switches in the bathroom
For safety reasons, when installing wiring in the bathroom, it is recommended to follow the following rules:
In the bedroom, it is customary to install combined appliances (switch plus socket) on both sides of the bed, at such a height that they can be conveniently operated by the resting user. Usually it is 60–70 cm.
Location of sockets and switches in the bedroom
If there are nightstands next to the bed, the electrical installation points are mounted just above them. It is also desirable to have a low socket for a vacuum cleaner (up to 30 cm) in a place from which the wire can easily reach anywhere in the room.
In other rooms there are general rules except for a few special cases:
In rooms where small children live, it is recommended to install sockets with plugs in the lower zone (up to 30 cm).
About the installation height of sockets and switches from the floor in the video:
The issue of choosing the height and installation location of sockets and switches should be approached with all due care, because in case of an error, relocation will be very expensive. It is useful to first draw a plan in order to reliably assess the convenience of the adopted placement. In the kitchen and bathroom, it is important not to forget about other communications, so that between them and the sockets the ones mentioned in this material minimum distances.
