In the spring, when most flower crops have not yet woken up from hibernation, daffodils, by their appearance, tell us that winter is finally gone. Nature has endowed him with a cheerful color, a golden crown and unusual grace. It’s simply impossible not to fall in love with them! Their yellow and white colors are pleasing to the eye.
They are one of the first flowers to begin to delight us with their bloom. Depending on the variety, flowering can last from April to June. Daffodils are less afraid of frost than tulips. They grow on almost any soil, except very heavy soil, and quite quickly develop the territory “offered” to them. The growth, size and color of flowers does not depend on their location. Whether it is a sunny or shady place, it doesn’t matter, they will not lose their qualities.
Currently, more than two tens of thousands of varieties of daffodils with six main colors are known (yellow, white, orange, green, pink, red). Well, there are countless color variations! In addition to their external beauty, they have an intoxicating spring aroma.
The peak flowering of daffodils occurs in the third year of life, because the formation of the bulb is slow and ends precisely in the third year.
There are very few problems with maintenance and care. Like any bulbous plant, in the spring, after harvesting, it is necessary to loosen the soil superficially and fertilize it three times during the growing season (during the period of mass germination, budding and flowering). But, if you limit yourself to just one feeding, the plant will not be offended and will develop normally. For feeding, you can use nitrophoska or ash.
Daffodils can grow in one place for up to 5-10 years. During this time, many bulbs are formed and, of course, the plants become crowded, flowering decreases, and replanting is required.
When transplanting, there is no need to separate the daughter bulbs from the mother bulbs. They will separate themselves when the time comes. And keeping the mother and daughter bulbs in their natural state gives new plantings of daffodils the opportunity to gain strength faster. Transplantation can be carried out both in spring and autumn. The plant tolerates it painlessly even in a flowering state, adapts well and blooms well in the next season.
To prevent the formation of seeds and thereby deplete the plant, you need to regularly remove faded flowers. There is no need to touch the foliage until it completely dries out, giving up all its nutrients to the bulb for formation. Many flower growers, including me, practice weaving braids from leaves - unusual and original.
After the foliage has completely withered, you can begin digging up and dividing the daffodils. Before young roots appear, the bulbs need to be planted in the ground, because during planting they break very easily and new roots form only the next year. And unrooted bulbs freeze in winter. On the contrary, they are well rooted and winter well, even without shelter, even in the northern regions.
Being poisonous and containing the alkaloid narcissin, the bulbs can serve as protectors for their other bulbous counterparts (snowdrops, tulips, crocuses, lilies), i.e. all gnawing “enemies”, be it mice, rats and other “saboteurs”, bypass their bulbs.
When cut, narcissists prefer to be alone. Peduncles do not have leaves; it is better to pick them rather than cut them. This should be done when the buds are only slightly open.
Thanks to its grace and unpretentiousness, this flower is a favorite in the spring garden.
IN winter period daffodil bulbs can be used for forcing. Any variety is suitable for this.
So should you plant daffodils? Well, of course you need to!
We determine the place for lilies based on the illumination of the area and the acidity of the soil in the area under the flower beds or flower beds. The fact is that lilies are generally unpretentious flowers; the only thing they have increased demands on is the composition and acidity of the soil. In practice, with the exception of our rather rare American hybrids, they prefer neutral and very slightly acidic soils. Snow white lily, Martagon lilies, Tubular hybrids - grow well on slightly alkaline soils.
However, when planting lilies, consider the appropriateness of the color combination. The lily itself is a royal plant, it is good when planted in a group, but preferably at least 5 bulbs (they grow slowly) of the same variety nearby. The exception is LO hybrids and OT hybrids - they are very large and begin to crowd each other, they can be planted one bulb at a time in flower beds with other less spectacular plants.
The problem with lilies is that after flowering the stems are ugly, they gradually dry out, they need to be covered with other flowers or greenery.
Therefore, you need to plant more around the lilies. low growing plants or flowers such as heuchera or astilbe. Lilies look better in a group surrounded by other, less expressive flowers and plants.
Some people think not ideal solution joint plantings lilies and roses, but this opinion is a matter of taste; it is quite possible to plant these plants next to each other, especially if they are in the same color scheme, lilies in the foreground, low floribundas in the background.
Generally in landscape design and from the point of view of agricultural technology, lilies are best combined with peonies, thanks to their beautiful openwork foliage, which remains decorative until the end of summer: peonies in the foreground, tall lilies in the background. If we look at peonies and lilies in a bouquet, they don’t fit at all and don’t look right in place, but it’s a different matter in flower beds - the peony fades, the lily blooms framed by the green foliage of peonies.
What else to plant next to lilies: speedwell, perennial phlox, delphiniums, cannas, rudbeckias, cypresses, thujas, ferns, perhaps garden carnation, cereals, pike grass, ryegrass, fescue.
Tulips, asters, daisies, and dahlias do not go well with lilies; gladioli are rather questionable.
Asian hybrid - Purple Eye lily, Tango series
When designing a multi-level flower garden, lilies get a place, depending on the height of the variety, usually central, but low varieties of lilies go to the foreground.
Option for a flower garden with lilies: first row: heucheras, second - aquilegias, third - peonies, fourth - lilies, fifth - chrysanthemums and phlox.
Asian Hybrids (AZ) and LA hybrids grow well only in sunny areas, at least 4 hours of sun per day in the morning or late afternoon, i.e. very light shading. Martagon lilies and Oriental hybrids prefer light partial shade; they should be placed in flower beds in such a way that when the hot sun hits the flowerbed, they are shaded by taller flowers or shrubs.
Conventionally, lilies can be divided into two groups according to the requirements for:
Lovers of neutral or slightly acidic soils, well fertilized - Asian hybrids, American hybrids, LA-hybrids (hybrids from long-flowered lily and Asian species). They grow poorly in calcareous soils, but also poorly in very acidic soils.
Lovers of neutral or slightly alkaline soils: Tubular hybrids, Martagon lilies and Candidum hybrids, which are quite rare and grown in containers. Therefore, for these lilies, the soil must be limed if necessary - approximately 200-500 g per 1 m2 of lime must be added half a year before planting (depending on the initial acidity of the soil - see). At spring planting We lime the bulbs in the fall; in the fall, we prepare the soil in the spring.
All types of lilies do not tolerate heavy clay soils, retaining moisture for a long time, this causes the bulbs to rot very quickly. Sandy and peat soils are also unsuitable - they are too poor, dry out quickly, and peat soils are also acidic.
As a rule, it is impossible to simply bury lily bulbs in any place you like - you need to thoroughly prepare the soil: fill it with organic matter in advance, it is advisable to add several buckets of leaf humus (soil from under birch, linden, aspen trees).
If the soil is clayey, dilute with 1 bucket of sand and 1 bucket of peat or 2 buckets of leaf humus per 1 m2 of flower bed.
If it is sandy, add 2 buckets of leaf humus and 1 bucket of loam or peat to the flowerbed. If there is neither peat nor loam, you can take garden soil from beds where cucumbers, cabbage, beets, cabbage, radishes or radishes, possibly strawberries were previously grown, but do not use soil from beds where tomatoes, potatoes and other nightshades were previously grown .
You cannot fill the flower beds with fresh manure and insufficient humus - large doses of nitrogen will lead to botrytis damage and rotting of the bulbs. You also need to make sure the soil is well drained.
The fertile layer of soil for lilies is no more than 40-50 cm; in addition, when preparing a flower bed or flower garden, you need to add 5-10 kg of humus, 100 g of superphosphate and 50 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m2 of land.
The general rule is to grow lilies in one place for no more than 3 years, but Martagon lilies and Tubular hybrids can be replanted every five years. LO hybrids and OT hybrids can be replanted even less often - once every seven to eight years, if they have enough space. This is due to the fact that over several years the lily bulbs grow, become overgrown with daughter bulbs, deplete the soil and require replanting.
But if the lilies grow poorly, get sick, are depressed and bloom weakly, it is worth reconsidering the timing of replanting; perhaps they do not like the proximity to other plants (they consume food too intensively or require more frequent watering than the lilies need), perhaps they are not happy with the acidity of the soil or its mechanical composition.
The most optimal time for planting Asiatic lilies and LA hybrids is in the fall; when planted in spring, lilies may bloom only a year later, or they bloom this year, but much weaker. Although the problem with autumn planting lilies arise if you don’t guess the timing: when the autumn is warm and long, some bulbs can germinate after planting, under cover, we will not see how the sprouts become covered with ice during frosts, and such lilies do not bloom the next year or freeze completely.
In general terms, planting dates depend on the climate in your area - in the southern regions of Russia it is traditionally planted later - in October-November, in the northern regions - no later than September, in the Moscow region and the Central region - September-October. During this time, lilies have excellent time to take root before winter.
It is better to plant oriental lilies and OT hybrids in central Russia in the spring, since they have a later flowering period and by the beginning of autumn the bulbs are not yet ready for planting. But if the autumn is promised to be long and warm, it is quite possible to plant Oriental lilies in October; they will have time to take root. If autumn is cold, damp and early frosts, postpone planting until spring, when the soil has warmed up well.
The general rule for digging up bulbs for transplanting or propagation is: a month or a month and a half after flowering.
Planting bulbs
Before planting, you need to protect the plants from diseases; to do this, you should soak the bulbs in the drug Maxim, or a strong solution of Fitosporin-M with the addition of the stimulant zircon.
Rules for deepening lily bulbs: the depth does not depend on the height of the variety, but on the size of the bulb - the optimal is 3 times the height of the bulb. How larger than an onion, the deeper they need to be buried, but even the largest ones are no deeper than 25 cm from the surface of the soil.
Add another 5 cm to this depth, i.e. make the hole deeper and pour 5 cm of coarse grain into the bottom river sand. Then plant the bulbs on the sand bed. The roots need to be carefully spread to the sides.
Candidum hybrids are never buried deeply; a maximum of 3 cm of soil should be sprinkled.
There is a distance of 20 cm between the bulbs of oriental or trumpet lilies. Asiatic lilies grow faster, they need to be planted less often - leave 30 cm between the bulbs, when planting LO hybrids and OT hybrids, the distance between the bulbs increases to 40-45 cm.
After planting, the bulbs need to be watered, but not diligently, not like vegetables. Then mulch better than straw. IN further watering regular, but before watering, make sure the soil under the mulch is dry.
If you bought autumn lily bulbs with sprouts, what should you do with them if it is no longer the season, for example, the end of summer? Lily bulbs that have sprouts are ready to immediately start growing stems and are even ready to bloom, and this is extremely undesirable. The chances of such bulbs surviving are approximately 1:1. And only if you carefully break out the sprouts and leave the bulbs in the refrigerator in the vegetable compartment, packed in slightly damp sphagnum moss until the optimal planting time. By the way, the scraps need to be powdered with charcoal, ground cinnamon or foundationazole powder. Then wait until autumn and plant in a prepared place.
If you nevertheless planted lily bulbs with sprouts in August or September, they sprouted and even started to bloom, do not allow this to happen, just remove the buds, and insulate the plants properly for the winter.
Lilies also need to be transplanted to a new location in the fall. Try to use fresh planting material dug up this year from friends, rather than purchased in a store.
If you are planning to leave, move and want to keep the lilies for yourself, then keep in mind that you can dig up lilies a maximum of two months before planting in a new place, but not earlier than a month after flowering. The fact is that you won’t be able to store the bulbs in the refrigerator for more than a couple of months; even in the cold they will begin to germinate. In nurseries and garden centers Lily bulbs are stored in special refrigerators at a temperature of minus 2 °C, but at home it is difficult to reproduce the exact temperature.
These lilies were dug up immediately after flowering, the bulbs are not ripe, small and weak, they need another 1-1.5 months after flowering to gain weight.
First you need to cut the stems at a height of about 10-15 cm above the ground. Carefully dig up the bulbs and shake off the soil. Rinse the bulbs in water and inspect them. If there are damaged scales, they need to be removed and the bulbs treated in a solution of foundationazole, maxim or phytosporin.
Next, you need to decide whether division is necessary: if you want to propagate lilies, it is better to separate those that are easily separated, otherwise you will have to wait. If you do not plan to propagate, you simply need to remove the excess bulbs.
If the nest of bulbs is dense, none of the bulbs themselves are easily separated, they can be cut off with a clean knife, but each part must retain a part of the bottom with a bunch of roots.
Important: OT-hybrids of lilies and LO-hybrids form children much smaller than Asian hybrids; it is better to separate them when they are ready to break off without touching the mother’s bulb.
For bulbs prepared for transplantation, all cuts and breaks must be disinfected (with a fungicide) or charcoal, cinnamon. Trim the roots, leaving a root beard of no more than 10 cm.
Important: all Lilies Candidum hybrids have sub-bulbous roots that are perennial; they cannot be cut off, but must be protected when replanting.
Do not leave the bulbs to dry in the open air for a long time; if replanting did not work out on the same day, or you want to save them for someone, you need to wrap the bulbs in damp sphagnum moss or damp burlap.
If mice are rampant in your area, there is a way to save lilies from destruction - plant them in metal or plastic mesh, wire baskets. It is important that the basket or net protects the bulbs on all sides. In this case, a plastic vegetable box is not suitable - the mice will get to the top. We do not recommend planting lilies in plastic bottles with holes on the sides - if there are few holes, the lilies will suffocate.
You need to look in household or construction stores mesh with a cell no more than 1 cm, cut out the bottom and high walls from it, fasten them with a plastic tie. The width of the mesh or box should be generous in order to protect growing young onions, at least 30 cm in diameter if there is one onion.
If the plantings are large and it is impossible to plant in a net, use an ultrasonic mouse repeller.
Usually in the spring it is advisable to plant only Oriental lilies and OT hybrids; they are the ones that go on sale the most - fresh imports of lilies from Holland come to Russia in January-February. After purchasing, we cannot plant immediately; we need to save them until spring. But lilies cannot be stored indefinitely; when sprouts appear, they will need to be planted. Therefore, do not buy lily bulbs with sprouts at the end of winter - they still have to be preserved until May.
Use either a plastic bag with holes in the top or a paper flour bag.
Either small sawdust, sphagnum moss, or fibrous peat is poured into it - in any case, the material should be slightly damp. It is very important that the bulbs do not dry out; Oriental lily hybrids are especially sensitive to drying out. Of all materials, moss is the best.
The bulbs can be placed in plastic cups in moss, covered with film on top, and holes can be made in the sides with a hole punch.
Storage temperature: 0+2°С, it should not fall below zero. Once a week, open the box, quickly inspect the bulbs for drying out or waterlogging. But don’t keep it warm for long - inspect it, ventilate it, put it away.
If the bulbs are perfectly preserved until spring, we plant them in due time, when the ground thaws and warms up.
If the bulbs in the refrigerator have sprouted about 2 cm, they need to be planted. To do this, prepare containers and nutrient soil in advance (drainage to the bottom of the pots).
We plant the bulbs as usual at the appropriate depth. We keep the containers cool at 10-12°C. When planting weather arrives, when the ground thaws (end of April - May), we plant it in the garden using the transshipment method - we do not disturb the roots, we move the entire earthen ball into the hole.
If the planting time is delayed, the lilies remain in the container, try not to let them bloom, pluck out the buds.
About container sizes: flower pots or plastic buckets 2-5 l (depending on the size of the bulbs), there are 1.5-2 cm holes at the bottom, they need to be covered mosquito net(cut along the bottom of the pot) or place a coconut shard with the hump up on each hole. It is best if the container is made of loose material and can be cut before transplanting. Keep in mind that lily roots grow approximately 15-20 cm, that is, the height of the container should be approximately 40 cm.
Large varieties Asiatic lilies and LA hybrids, like Martagons and OT hybrids, are not grown in containers. But there are low-growing varieties of Asian and Oriental hybrids, reaching no more than 60-70 cm in height (minimum 30 cm), which can be constantly grown in a large container, planting 3-5 bulbs together.
When to plant tulips, daffodils, lilies, crocuses and other bulbous plants in the fall? Lunar calendar
Autumn bulbous flowers should be purchased and planted in the fall and bloom the following spring. These are: tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, imperial hazel grouse, decorative onions, muscari, crocuses, small bulbous plants(Scylla, Chionodxa, Pushkinia, Scilla). Out-of-season bulbous lilies are planted both in spring and autumn. When planted in spring, out-of-season bulbous bulbs bloom the same year, and when planted in autumn, the next year. You need to order and pay for bulbous plants with delivery by mail in advance so that you will already receive the package by the time of planting season. find out favorable days for purchasing and planting bulbous plants according to the Lunar sowing calendar of the gardener and gardener for 2015.
How to choose good bulbs
When purchasing tulips, daffodils, lilies and other plants, pay attention to the size of the bulb; the quality of flowering depends on it. Inspect the bulbs. They must be dense, in no case withered, have no soft rotten places, or the smell of mold. Pay attention to the bottom of the bulb - it should be dry and dense, this is the key to the health and vitality of the plants. At the bulbs low-growing varieties and plant species, the bulbs are smaller, this is normal.
In hyacinths, the color of the covering scales of the bulbs, as a rule, resembles the color of the inflorescences. In addition, in pink violet, blue hyacinths the bulbs are usually wide-conical, in yellow and orange - narrow-conical, in white - ovoid. Varieties of different colors should have different colored bulbs.
It is very risky to buy lily bulbs after forcing. They are very light, since their scales have depleted the reserve nutrients. They don't bloom the next year. If you are attracted by the price and are willing to skip two or three flowering seasons, you can buy lilies after forcing them.
How to properly treat bulbs before planting
Remove packaged bulbs from packaging at home and immediately discard severely damaged ones. Before planting, clean newly purchased bulbs and treat them for infections. Bulbs infected with penicillium rot often go on sale. The disease manifests itself in the form of gray-green sporulation on the integumentary scales of the bulb. If the penicillium spots are small, the bulb can be cured. Often, on apparently healthy bulbs, if you remove the integumentary scales, you can find the first signs of fusarium: grayish depressed spots surrounded by a brighter border. They should be removed to avoid introducing infection into the garden. Peel the bulbs, sprinkle the sections with crushed coal or powdered fungicide. Let the cut dry and slightly cork for 2–3 days.
Before planting, treat the bulbs in a liquid disinfectant (Vitaros, Maxim) according to the instructions.
Better days for treating plants and planting material from diseases and pests according to the lunar calendar of the gardener in 2015 - these are August 6, 10-12 and September 1-5, 11, 12, 29, 30.
How and where to plant bulbous plants in the garden
The planting depth of the bulb can be calculated using the “rule of three”: from the bottom to the soil surface there should be a distance equal to the height of the bulb multiplied by 3. On heavy soil, it is better to reduce the planting depth by 20%.
During the growing season and flowering, bulbs need sun, but when they are dormant, light is not so important. Small bulbous flowers that bloom in early spring can be planted among deciduous trees, which bloom around the time the foliage of these flowers dies.
Bulbous plants do not tolerate stagnation of water, but, as a rule, they are demanding in terms of nutrition and moisture during the growing season. The best choice for them - nutritious and moisture-absorbing, but well-drained loamy soil. On sandy soil additional watering and enhanced fertilizing are required.
Plants whose bulbs need to be dug up for the summer (tulips, hyacinths, hazel grouse) can be planted in flower beds with fast-growing annuals and biennials: nasturtiums, aromatic tobacco, violas, forget-me-nots, daisies. They will decorate empty spaces in the flower garden.
When should you plant autumn bulbs?
First, in late August - early September, plant small-bulbous plants: scylla, muscari, pushkinia, chionodoxa, crocuses.
Gradually progress to planting daffodils in late August/early September, then plant tulip bulbs around mid-September. It is better not to rush into planting hyacinths. The most favorable moment is the second ten days of October, when the temperature reaches about +8°C.
Is it possible to plant bulbs, for example, in July–August? Yes, but they begin to take root at a soil temperature of about +10ºС, and until this time they will lie in the ground, where they lie in wait onion flies, wireworms, weeds and various diseases.
Is it possible to buy bulbs late - at the end of autumn - and how to plant them?
You can buy unsprouted bulbs at fall sales. Many companies offer good discounts on so-called expired bulbs. Bulbs can be planted in slightly frozen soil without compromising flowering the following year. When planting, such bulbs must be covered for the winter. The bulbous shelter should be dry and well ventilated.
To plant small bulbs in cold soil, you must first place them in a pot with garden soil, using a drill or crowbar, make a sufficient depression in the frozen soil, place the pot, bury it with the removed soil, mulch the planting site with peat and cover the top with a covering material (spunbond, lutrasil).
If, during late planting, the bulbs (corms) were covered on top with spruce branches (film, non-woven material, foliage, etc.) or a large layer of compost, then in the spring, before flowering, the mulching layer must be raked off and the covering materials removed.
The best days for preparing plants for winter and installing shelters according to the Lunar calendar are 2-5, 7, 8, 10-12, 14-18, 20, 22-26, 29 and 30 September and 1-5, 7, 19, 28, 29th of October. These same days are suitable for mulching plantings.
When to buy lilies: autumn or spring?
The most favorable time for planting lily bulbs is early September. Bulbs planted at this time will take root well and overwinter well. But in the fall it is difficult to find good planting material. Mostly they sell bulbs that are left over from the spring sale and have been in the refrigerator for almost a year.
The main flow of planting material comes to us from countries with a longer growing season, where bulbs are dug in October-November. Therefore, we receive a new harvest in the spring, from industrial cold storage. In the fall, on the shelves, as a rule, there are bulbs that have been stored for a year, ready to start growing, and sometimes even bulbs with sprouts. It is better not to buy such lilies. Therefore, it is worth buying bulbs only from local producers in the fall, and imported ones in the spring.
Many people buy lily bulbs in winter, in January and February, when the first exhibitions begin. These bulbs should be refrigerated and stored in packaging. If the sprouts become large and continue to grow, then the bulbs should be planted in a container and kept in a cool, bright place.
Is it possible to buy lilies with sprouts? In spring you can buy lilies with sprouts. In the fall, you should not buy lilies with sprouts. They will continue to grow when planted and will die at the first frost.
The best lunar days to purchase bulbs and planting material at Sowing calendar gardener and gardener - September 14, 15 and 16. October 14 and 15, 2015.
On these days, according to the Lunar calendar of gardeners and gardeners in 2015, it is better to refuse to purchase plants: August 1, 8, 9, 14, 29 and September 4, 5, 13 and 28.
When to plant lilies - in spring or autumn?
It is better to plant purchased lilies in the fall. Then the timing can be varied, since the bulbs are at rest and will not begin to grow. The optimal time for planting lilies is the end of August, September and even October. Don't plant lilies too late as they take time to establish. When planted late, the bulbs do not have time to grow sufficient root mass and overwinter worse.
When planting lilies late, it is better to make a shelter. Cut branches of shrubs and arrange them over the bulbs in a “hut”. Cover with oak leaves (they are the least likely to rot and cake). Cover the top with an inverted vegetable box, then with a waterproof material (the ends of the box should be ventilated). Press down the cover with heavy objects.
You can plant purchased lilies in the spring. When planted in spring, the bulbs bloom the same year. But when planting in spring, you most likely have bulbs from cold storage, and when you transfer them to warmth, they grow quite quickly. Therefore, the time for planting will be quite limited. You need to have time to plant the bulbs while the sprouts are still small. If they have reached 10-15 cm, then the bulbs need to be planted sideways so that the sprouts are placed in the groove next to them almost horizontally. They will gradually take on a vertical position and the plant will bloom in the same year, although it may be weaker. When planting in spring, the bulbs spend time growing the root system to the detriment of growth and flowering, and sometimes they simply rot next winter.
Optimal time for planting and replanting lilies in regions with short summer(Moscow region, Leningrad region, Ural, Siberia) - mid-end of August. In the southern regions, planting dates are shifted about a month later, in the northern regions, on the contrary, earlier.
The optimal time for transplanting and planting lilies in central Russia is August-September, in the southern regions - October. In principle, you can plant later, when the soil temperature is close to zero, but in this case you will have to cover the plants well for the winter.
When to plant and arrange daffodils
Daffodils should be dug up later than tulips, as soon as the foliage has almost completely turned yellow (June-July), and planted earlier - before the end of September. The optimal time for planting daffodils is the second half of August, since the roots of daffodils grow most actively in September. In central Russia, daffodils are planted from approximately August 20 to September 1. If they are planted later, along with tulips, they will not have time to develop root system, which means they will survive the winter worse.
It is better to mulch daffodil bulbs planted after dry storage (without roots) with fallen leaves (layer thickness at least 10 cm); this operation will not be needed in the future, since daffodils can grow in one place for 5–7 years. The only exception is split-crowned daffodils, which are mulched annually.
When to plant hyacinths
Hyacinth bulbs are planted in conditions middle zone Russia (Moscow region, Leningrad, Vologda, Kostroma and other regions) and the Southern Urals in late September - early October. Like tulips, when too early boarding hyacinths may begin to grow and die in winter, and in late winter they will not have time to take root before the soil freezes to the planting depth. However, hyacinths can be planted until the first half of November. But then the place should be insulated in advance with leaves or other material from what is at hand, and protected with film from rain and snow. And after planting, re-install the insulation.
Experts advise preparing the site for planting hyacinths in August, two months before planting, otherwise natural settlement of the soil may cause the roots to break off, which will begin to develop in the fall. When planting in holes, it is advisable to add well-rotted compost or peat, if it was not added when preliminary digging the soil.
With the onset of persistent cold weather, it is better to cover the hyacinth plantings. To do this, you can use dry peat, humus, sawdust, dry fallen leaves and spruce branches. In the spring, as soon as the soil begins to thaw, the cover must be carefully removed, since hyacinths sprout very early.
After spring home forcing, hyacinth bulbs can also be planted in the garden. But not in spring, but in autumn. After the leaves wither, the bulbs must be carefully removed from the pot and dried at room temperature, clean from old roots and covering scales. Store in peat, not allowing it to dry out until the beginning of September at a temperature of about +25°C.
The best days for forcing plants according to the Lunar calendar of gardeners and gardeners 2015: October 1, 7, 19, 28, November 1, 2, 15, 16, 30 and December 1, 12, 13, 27 and 28.
When to plant crocuses
Crocus - early spring Flower, therefore, most varieties of this plant need to be planted in the ground before winter, that is, in the fall, in September-October. Planting crocuses on the lawn under fruit trees, next to the water well, where the soil later freezes, will allow you to plant plants even in November. But if you want to get blooming crocuses next spring, you should order and purchase crocus corms at the end of summer.
There are also autumn varieties of crocuses; they bloom in August-September. Their bulbs need to be planted in summer (July-August). Such crocuses are more whimsical and require careful care, weeding and watering. Therefore, they are less popular than early flowering ones. When planting crocus bulbs, you must take into account their light-loving nature: if there is not enough light, the buds do not open.
How to plant crocuses after forcing
Indoor crocuses - plants that bloomed in a pot indoors - after forcing, can be planted again in the garden. After flowering, remove the faded inflorescence so that the plant does not waste energy trying to form seeds.
Gradually reduce watering, stimulating the flow of nutrients into the bulb. When the leaves turn completely yellow, remove the bulb, dry it at room temperature, and clean it of old roots and covering scales.
After forcing, crocus bulbs can be planted in the ground as early as May, after the soil has thawed. The plants will not bloom this season; it is unlikely that they will produce full blooms next year.
When to plant small bulbous plants
Small-bulbous plants (crocuses, kandyki, chionodoxes, muscari, scylla, pushkinia, corydalis, galanthus and others) can not be dug up for several years until they grow. When plants begin to crowd each other, usually in June, when the leaves turn yellow, the plants are dug up, divided and replanted in a new location.
In the second half - end of August, new planting material is planted. Plants must have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. On lighter soils, the bulbs are planted a little deeper, and on heavier soils, a little shallower than the standard recommended depth. It is better to bury small bulbs - baby bulbs - less than adult bulbs.
When to plant tulips
The optimal time for planting tulip bulbs in central Russia (Moscow region, Leningrad region, Non-Black Earth region) and regions with short summers (Ural, Siberia) is at the end of September - beginning of October, when the soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm is about +10°C, and Before the soil freezes, plants have time to form roots (about 20-30 days). Plants that do not have time to take root well will receive less nutrition and will be stunted in growth. Immediately before planting, it is recommended to soak the bulbs for 30-60 minutes in a 0.5% solution of potassium permanganate or special disinfectants (for example, Maxim).
During a prolonged warm autumn, mulch the tops of the tulips with a 10 cm layer of peat so that the plants are not damaged by subsequent frosts.
When to plant tulips according to the Lunar calendar
Tulips that do not require digging for 3-6 years: Kaufman, Foster, Greig, species, as well as Darwin hybrids, Triumph, Simple early and Simple late. They are best planted with drought-resistant perennial species with shallow root systems, such as sedums. In summer, the bulbs of such tulips do not want moisture. Planted sedums live in a flower garden for 3-6 years, and when the time comes to dig up the bulbs, the clumps of sedum are carefully removed with a shovel, and after harvesting the tulips they are returned to the flower garden.
When to plant imperial hazel grouse
Usually hazel grouse are planted in the garden in September-October. Forced later planting of bulbs requires mulching the planting site and covering it with oak leaves for the winter. Hazel grouse bulbs do not have covering scales, so they must be handled with the utmost care, avoiding drying out and mechanical damage.
This article was automatically added from the community
Along with harvesting, the main autumn activity for gardeners, there are other things to do at this time of year. important matter: planting flowers. In this case, from the first days of spring, flower beds, edgings, and mixborders will delight you with beautifully flowering plants. The choice of flowers for planting in the fall is quite large. The main criterion for selecting such flora is high winter hardiness.
It is recommended to protect plants native to the tropics and subtropics from the tests of Russian frosts. It's better to grow them seedling method and post in open ground in the spring. By the way, these representatives of the flora in our latitudes are often cultivated as annuals. The most striking example is.
Most gardeners have a very poor idea of what annual flowers can be planted with seeds in the fall. The “standard set” usually includes self-seeding of cornflowers, bluebells, poppies, calendula, marigolds and asters. You can also plant such plants as cosmos, eschscholzia, and other less popular, but no less beautiful plants on your site for a long time.
ON THE PICTURE: The main advantage of planting annuals in the autumn is that they bloom much earlier than plants planted in the spring.
ON THE PICTURE: Perennials planted in the fall bloom in the first season.
Benefits of autumn planting seeds
Planting flowers in the fall eliminates watering and the winter hassle of growing seedlings. Besides:
The snow that melts in the spring provides the seeds of plants planted in the fall with sufficient moisture. As a result, they develop faster and better than their spring “companions.”
Inspect the planting material. If you find a bag of frost-resistant seeds whose shelf life is coming to an end, do not delay sowing until spring. When stored indoors, their germination rate decreases every day. Whereas autumn sowing will give a chance for germination. Even if the experiment fails, there will be time for replacement after the snow melts.
Seeds are sown after the autumn cold sets in - at the end of October–November, but the site must be prepared in advance. The soil should be dug up and fertilizer applied. For 1 m2, the following fertilizer composition and volume is suitable:
Depending on the preferences of the future inhabitants of the flower garden, the soil is limed or acidified. The soil is leveled with a rake and grooves are made.
It is recommended to sprinkle the planted seeds with peat or humus. If you cover them with earth, then winter months it will inevitably become denser, thereby complicating the germination of seedlings. Soil “substitutes” will avoid such problems. The crops are covered with sawdust or spruce branches; the main protection will be provided by the snow cover.
When sowing in autumn, the depth of seed placement should be reduced. In addition, it is necessary to increase the rate of planting material by about a third to compensate for possible losses.
Many bulbous plants are not adapted to wintering in the ground. Sub-zero temperatures are detrimental to underground shoots, . But the cold is not scary.
ON THE PICTURE: Planting lilies in the fall has long been tested. Before the onset of winter, the bulbs have time to take root, actively grow in the spring and, as a result, begin flowering early.
When to plant in the fall depends on the local climate. In Siberian conditions the deadline will be the end of August, in outskirts of Moscow- October. In the southern regions The procedure can be carried out until the end of November. You should focus on the air temperature, it should drop to +10°C and no longer exceed this mark.
Planting lilies in the fall is preceded by site preparation, taking into account the fact that the plants will live in one area for three to five years. It is recommended to dig up the soil, add humus, superphosphate and potassium sulfate.
In some cases, liming is necessary, since the snow-white lily and tubular hybrids do not tolerate acidic soil.
Having decided when it is most favorable to plant lilies in the fall in your area, dig holes. The depth of each hole is three times the height of the bulb. Place a layer of sand on the bottom and straighten the roots. Fill it with sand first, then soil. Water and mulch the plantings: oriental species with peat/sawdust, snow-white lily and hybrids with a mixture of humus and wood ash. At this point, the program for planting lilies in the fall can be considered completed. Covering with spruce branches will be required only if a sharp drop in air temperatures occurs before snow falls.
Transplanting lilies in autumn also gives good results. It is carried out once every five years, usually a month after the end of flowering. The stem is cut as close to the surface of the earth as possible, the bulb is carefully dug out, trying not to damage the roots. Remove dead scales and separate the babies. It is advisable to keep the bulbs in the solution for 30–40 minutes. Further transplant lilies in the fall completely coincides with the primary planting of plants.
Gardeners often wonder at what interval autumn period plant tulips to enjoy the beauty of flowering from the first days of spring.
Just like with lilies, you should focus not on the calendar, but on the climate and weather. Early planting leads to the appearance of sprouts that are not able to survive the first winter frosts. Later turns into belated flowering. Therefore, to choose the time, you need to monitor the soil temperature. As soon as it reaches +5–7°C, you can plant the bulbs in the flowerbed.
In the middle zone optimal timing from September 15 to October 5. In warm autumn, you can shift the dates by 5-10 days. When the soil temperature is higher, the bulbs take root more slowly and are more often affected by diseases. If the soil is dry during planting, watering is necessary.
The best planting material will be purchased immediately before boarding. But it is quite possible to use bulbs and tubers purchased in advance. It is only important to follow the storage rules: place in sand or peat and keep in the basement or refrigerator. You should avoid purchasing sprouted bulbs; dormant bulbs are suitable for autumn planting.
Herbaceous ones can live in one place for a long time. However, it is recommended to rejuvenate five-year-old plants: divide and replant. This procedure has a beneficial effect, stimulates active growth and abundant flowering. Tree peonies are more susceptible to stress from replanting; until the bush reaches 10 years of age, it is better not to disturb it.
The best time to replant both herbaceous and tree peonies, considered to be the end of August–beginning of autumn. By this time, the plants have already faded and have time to grow new roots, which will greatly facilitate rooting in a new place. However, when choosing a transplant date, you should also focus on your climate zone:
The rhizome is carefully dug up and divided into parts, leaving each with at least three buds and three adventitious roots. The sections are processed and dried.
Replanting peonies in spring is not prohibited. But only the autumn procedure guarantees 100% rooting, as well as flowering next summer. Therefore, if you are wondering when you can replant peonies, choose autumn.
Forming the perfect flower garden for summer
When selecting plants for planting in the fall, adhere to the basic rule for forming a flower garden: the center of the flowerbed should be occupied by tall plants with wide leaves; short, beautifully flowering species should be allocated zones along the edges.
To make your flower garden happy with bright colors all summer long, make a flowering calendar for your plants. Select varieties and species whose flowering follows one after another.
