A neighbor once complained to me: “For some reason, the ovaries on our cucumbers in the greenhouse are turning yellow. I feed them, sing them, but they don’t want to grow and turn green - they bloom beautifully and then dry up.”
I went to my neighbors’ greenhouse and looked at their cucumber plantings, reminiscent of a jungle of intertwined vines with huge leaves. It was difficult for light to penetrate through these thickets.
Here and there in the greenery were visible bright flowers, and almost no fruit was visible, that is, for the sake of which all this was started. Everything became clear to me. First mistake: the plants don’t grow.
It is necessary to promptly remove everything that is trying to grow from the axils of the first three to five leaves, and pinch all the stepsons that form above above the second leaf. Many gardeners are afraid of pinching, mistakenly believing that this procedure will reduce the yield.
However, this must be done without fail and ruthlessly. Stepchildren that will grow from the axils no longer in the main vine, but from the axils of the stepchildren, i.e., the so-called second-order shoots, need to be pinched after the first leaf. The second mistake: the plants are planted too densely.
They do not have enough feeding area, so they cannot feed their numerous ovaries. It’s these extra ovaries that dry up. And you must definitely take into account the recommendations on the bags.
If it is written that 2.5 plants need to be planted per 1 m2, then this is how it should be planted, i.e. for 5 plants you need 2 m2 of land. Third mistake: the housewife constantly feeds her cucumbers with manure, and her plants grow by leaps and bounds - they are warm, humid, satisfying. But when plants enter the fruiting stage, their needs change.
Now they require not only nitrogen and phosphorus, but also increased phosphorus-potassium nutrition. Therefore, to fertilizing from mullein infusion or grass, you need to add a glass of ash and a tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate.
Or you can take a complete mineral fertilizer - azofoska, Kemira, or dissolved fertilizer. Fourth. Often, not only parthenocarpic varieties and hybrids are planted in greenhouses, but also bee-pollinated ones.
U modern varieties The flowers are predominantly female and require a pollinator. But many gardeners don’t do this, or don’t know. Fifth.
There is no need to grow greens to a huge “Russian” size, because this will inhibit the growth of subsequent cucumbers. And here’s what you need to know. The plant always blooms “with a reserve” in case of unfavorable conditions, that is, it produces more ovaries than it can then feed.
Therefore, when all the flowers are pollinated, the plant begins to shed excess ovaries. Thus, the drying of part of the ovaries is a normal process. Our task is to help the plant feed more offspring.
Now gardeners are keen on growing so-called bunch hybrids, in which from 2-3 to 5-10 ovaries are laid in each leaf axil. They are valued for the abundance of ovaries and greens; their gherkin fruits are not large.
And it’s more difficult to work with them - you need to keep as many ovaries as possible in the bunch and not let them dry out. Inexperienced gardeners usually grow from these ovaries 1-2 cucumbers per node, the rest of the ovaries turn yellow and fall off. I, too, did not succeed in everything right away, however, year after year, by trial and error, I learned to save 3-5 ovaries, and even more. To save most of the ovaries, you must follow several agrotechnical rules. First, the soil should be nutritious, loose and moderately moist. By the beginning of fruiting, the bushes should be well developed, with a strong stem, with a powerful root system, with healthy leaves. During the fruiting period, you need to regularly, once a week, feed the plants with the same fertilizers as regular, non-bunched, cucumbers.
The filling of greens will speed up if you place a barrel of fermenting grass or manure in the greenhouse. However, overfeeding with a large amount of nitrogen does not benefit the cucumbers - the number of ovaries in the nodes decreases. You need to constantly monitor the greens: as soon as they reach the right size, cut them off immediately and under no circumstances leave them on the bush for even an extra hour, because overgrown fruits inhibit the growth of subsequent greens.
This is very important. The soil must not be allowed to dry out. In this case, some of the ovaries will definitely dry out. Usually in hot weather the plant seems to be preparing for the fact that there will be little moisture in the soil, so it simply forms few ovaries in a bunch. All bunch hybrids are very light-loving, so they need to be planted in the most illuminated place in the greenhouse.
With a lack of light, the number of ovaries in the bunch decreases. In addition, you need to know what kind of hybrid you are growing - bee-pollinated or not, whether they need a pollinator or not, whether you need to attract pollinating insects to the greenhouse or not. Parthenocarpic hybrids also have their problems.
So, scientists have found that in cool rainy weather the degree of parthenocarpy decreases. In this case, the ovaries do not grow for a long time. Parthenocarpy also decreases if they were not pinched in time. side shoots. Therefore, you need to monitor the timely formation of the bush, and in bad weather it is recommended to spray the plants with Epin, Zircon. “Garden Affairs” No. 5 (30), May 2009.
It’s such a shame when cucumbers in a greenhouse turn yellow. What is the cause of this disaster and what can be done to save the situation and still get a good harvest? If the yellowing of the leaves is not accompanied by wilting, most likely the cause is a lack of nutrients.Why do the fruits and leaves of cucumbers turn yellow? Experts identify several of the most common causes.
Cucumber is a very moisture-loving plant (like pepper), so you should not neglect the rules of watering this vegetable. These rules are simple: to prevent the cucumbers from starting to get sick and turn yellow, the water for watering should not be cold (watering from a hose is not suitable). Water should be settled.
During the fruiting period, watering should be increased more often. In cool weather, plants are watered daytime, and on sunny warm days - in the morning. If the days are hot, then in the mornings only refreshing watering is done, and in the evenings - normal.
The depth of the moistened soil should be sufficient to root system cucumber plants developed deeply, and not superficially. Regularity of watering is crucial: you only have to miss watering the plants a few times, and this will immediately affect the quality of future fruits. So, lack of moisture entails yellowing of the plant itself and the new ovary of cucumbers. Yellow spots indicate a lack of potassium, and light green spots are a sign of magnesium deficiency.
This means that cucumbers need to be fed. Weather conditions are often the reason why cucumbers turn yellow. Cold, wet weather caused by late frosts can damage plants.
If rotting of the ovaries occurs, you need to urgently remove the already faded flowers and treat the cut with potassium permanganate (solution). To prevent further bacteriosis, spraying is carried out with either 1% Bordeaux mixture or 0.4% copper oxychloride.
It is worth noting that peppers can also turn yellow and lose leaves if they are exposed to temperatures up to +120°C for a long time. The composition of the soil is critical. Lack of nitrogen and poor soil - here common reason why plant development is disrupted.
It is important to ensure that there is no overdose in the amount of fertilizer, which, in turn, leads to oppression and yellowing of seedlings and their fruits. Before planting cucumber seedlings and after the harvest is harvested, manure must be applied to the soil. And during the growing season, complex feeding is considered mandatory. mineral fertilizers, containing phosphorus, fluorine and potassium, and liquid mullein.
Powdery mildew. If light, resembling white coating spots that gradually increase in size are a sign of infection. The leaf dries and turns yellow.
How to deal with this trouble? If you do not worry about measures to destroy powdery mildew, next season she will certainly make herself known.
Fungicide preparations “Topsin”, “Bayleton”, “Karatan” will help. The main disease of cucumber in our area, in which the leaves turn yellow, is false powdery mildew(peronosporosis). It is also worth paying attention to those resistant to this disease cucumber varieties. Fusarium wilt. Dangerous fungal disease, causing the death of cucumbers in a greenhouse.
Penetrating into the capillaries of the plant, the spores of this fungus completely block the access of food to the fruits and leaves. In greenhouses where infection has occurred, it is required complete replacement soil. In addition, you need to regularly change the variety of plants. Melon aphids.
Special preparations work well against these pests: Belofos, Arrivo and the like. Root rot. The leaves, both of young plants and adults, begin to turn yellow from below. This is caused by significant temperature differences between day and night.
The cause may be watering with too “cold” water. Weakened plants become sick first, then the infection begins to spread through the soil to other cucumbers.
Preventive treatment (twice) with Previkur in the root area can prevent this unpleasant disease. Downy mildew (pernosporosis). This is common among melons and cucumbers, the disease appears in greenhouses under conditions high humidity air and soil, against the background of dense planting of seedlings.
Affected fruits shrink and turn yellow. The first signs of damage may appear immediately with the onset of fruiting. In this case, the crop may be completely destroyed. How can you tell if your plants are sick?
Acute-angled, dark green spots appear on the lower leaves. Preparations to combat pernosporosis - Bordeaux mixture or copper chloride (for the first treatment), "Bravo", "Avixil" (for the second treatment after 7 days).
Return to contents
Plants are overloaded with ovaries. In a greenhouse, cucumbers and peppers develop very quickly. But, in order for the fruits not to turn yellow, for further development You should not leave more than 25-30 ovaries.
By removing new shoots in a timely manner, delays in the development and formation of greens can be prevented. If this rule is not followed, the result may be underdeveloped, small and yellow fruits. The fertilization process has not taken place sufficiently. This happens when hybrid varieties that require artificial pollination are used in a greenhouse. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J84NeIvz16ICucumbers, like peppers, also turn yellow naturally when they reach their maturity, but are mainly used for food cucumber fruits are only green. This list of reasons why cucumbers turn yellow in your greenhouse will help you choose best way how to preserve your harvest.
Some summer residents are familiar with the problematic situation when, for no apparent reason, the ovaries of cucumbers turn yellow and fall off. What factors contribute to the development of such an unpleasant phenomenon, and what must be taken into account in order to avoid it? As observations show, most often summer residents who grow this crop in film greenhouses face the problem of drying and falling of cucumber ovaries (this aspect will be discussed in more detail below) . And most often favorable conditions For this problem to arise, oddly enough, it is the gardener himself who creates it.
According to experts, the ovary of cucumbers begins to turn yellow and fall off for several main reasons, namely:
Let's try to look in more detail at each of the above reasons why the ovaries on cucumbers dry out. As you know, cucumbers are plants that are extremely demanding of light, the lack of which has a detrimental effect on their growth and development. Therefore, if you intend to grow this crop in greenhouse conditions, even at the stage of constructing a cultivation structure, learn how to properly install a greenhouse on the site so that the building is fully illuminated. A lack of light can also be caused by the abundance of green space grown in the greenhouse.
Often, beginning gardeners try to plant as much as possible in the greenhouse space. more plants, completely overlooking the fact that after a while they will begin to obscure each other. Therefore, before you start growing cucumbers for seedlings, try maximum accuracy calculate how much it will be needed, adding about 10% more so-called to the resulting amount. “insurance” bushes. Do not forget that modern cucumber hybrids (especially parthenocarpic hybrids) have a developed vegetative system, so they should be planted taking into account the recommended feeding area for each individual plant.
Thus, parthenocarpic hybrids are planted one (less often two) plants per 1 square meter. m, and bee-pollinated hybrids - 2-3 plants per 1 sq.m. By not observing the prescribed frequency of planting, you can further provoke the fact that the grown plants will shade each other, and the formed ovaries of cucumbers will begin to turn yellow and fall off. The absence of periodic pinching, due to which this is done, can also lead to drying out of the ovaries. correct formation bush.
If you do not pay attention to this in a timely manner, the branching side shoots, growing, will obscure each other. It is necessary to pinch top part shoots, not allowing their length to exceed 20-25 cm (such long shoots weaken the plant as a whole and cause the ovaries on cucumbers to begin to turn yellow and fall off). The process of forming a cucumber bush begins with the so-called. procedures for “blinding” the leaf axils, in which the buds of flowers, tendrils and lateral shoots are located.
As these parts of the plant grow, they will require more and more nutrition, which will lead to a weakening of the mother bush. Timely removal of the rudimentary elements hiding in the leaf axils will ensure that the mother bush will not waste its resources on the development of unnecessary shoots and will be able to develop a strong vegetative system. The number of “blinded” axils depends on the variety - so, in relation to cultivation in film greenhouses, it is recommended , so that on bee-pollinated varieties there are at least three of them (on one specimen), on parthenocarpic varieties - at least eight. 2) Violation of the temperature regime of the soil and air. The optimal air temperature for growing parthenocarpic varieties before fruiting is considered to be the range of +22..+24° in in clear weather, +20...+22° - in cloudy weather and +17°...+18° - at night.
When the plants begin to enter the fruiting phase, these indicators should increase to approximately +23...+26°, +21°...+23° and +18°...+20°, respectively. In turn, for growing bee-pollinated varieties, the presented temperature indicators increase by approximately 1-3° for both phases. The most comfortable soil temperature for growing this crop is considered to be +22°…+24°.
The critical point is considered to be the interval +13...+15° - if the soil cools to this temperature, the tender ovaries of cucumbers will turn yellow and fall off. Here we should talk about why cucumber ovaries dry up and fall off in film greenhouses. Most often, this occurs as a result of overheating of plantings and sudden temperature changes that occur due to the fact that the polyethylene coating perfectly transmits heat, as a result of which inner space greenhouses can heat up to 40° (or higher) in hot weather.
At night, the film coating releases heat, which leads to strong cooling of the air inside the building, and this inevitably leads to the fall of the ovaries. 3) Violation of mineral nutrition. The ovaries of cucumbers may turn yellow and fall off as a result of a violation of mineral nutrition, and this reason may not only be a deficiency certain elements, but also in their incorrect proportions. In addition, this may be due to a violation of the temperature, air-gas regime and air and/or soil humidity. Parthenocarpic varieties and hybrids are more dependent on this factor, since developing a powerful vegetative system, they need abundant watering, which, in turn, turn, can provoke the leaching of potassium and nitrogen from the soil.
With an acute deficiency of these elements in parthenocarpic varieties and hybrids of cucumbers, the ovaries begin to turn yellow, dry out and fall off. Therefore, during the fruiting period, do not forget to periodically feed the plantings with nitrogen-potassium fertilizers. 4) High yield of hybrids Modern hybrids are characterized by high yield - especially parthenocarpics.
In the axils of almost every leaf they have an ovary (sometimes even several), and it is natural that a plant that spends all its resources on the full development of the ovaries will get rid of excess load. To influence this process, it is necessary to remove the ovaries in a timely manner - even before the flowers bloom. 5) Deficiency or excess of moisture in the soil When growing cucumbers, it is necessary to take into account that the soil moisture before the crops bear fruit should be slightly lower than during the fruiting period.
At the entire stage of fruit ripening, the soil should be as saturated with moisture as possible. However, do not forget that watering the plants cold water(10°-15°) is strictly forbidden - otherwise, this will lead to massive falling off of the ovaries. Speaking about watering, we should mention one technological trick that is often resorted to in order to increase the number of female flowers - for this, during the period of flower formation, cucumbers do not water for several days to dry the soil.6) Poor work of bees due to unfavorable weather conditions. Often, cucumber ovaries dry out and fall off due to bad work bees, which do not fly in cloudy weather, and in hot weather, rarely fly into a stuffy, sun-heated greenhouse.
At temperatures above 35°, even if an insect transfers pollen to a flower, it will become sterile. As a result, the unfertilized cucumber ovary will dry out and fall off. Did you like the article?
Click the buttons and share with your friends!
Parthenocarpic cucumbers are increasingly gaining popularity among gardeners, especially when grown in greenhouses. The reason is simple: for good harvest A green vegetable does not require pollination by insects at all. The plant has only female flowers and the ovaries form independently, and in large quantities.
However, in order for the harvest to be not only large, but also of high quality, parthenocarpits require a little more attention than ordinary varieties. The fact is that such plants grow very quickly, forming many new shoots. Therefore, most of the nutrients go to new ovaries. Since there are so many of them, the fruits grow slowly. It seems that this situation happened to the author. To redistribute the consumption of nutrients and direct them into the growth of cucumbers, the plant should be pinched.
Pinching is different from ordinary cucumbers. Non-hybrid varieties usually begin to form after the fifth leaf, since male flowers are formed on the main shoot.
In parthenocarpits, flowers grow in the same way, but it must be taken into account that they female, so you shouldn’t pinch after the 5th leaf.
It is better to do the formation this way:
The main shoot must be secured, and when it acquires maximum length, also pinch it or throw it over a support (so that it grows towards the ground).
For secondary shoots that appear from lateral shoots (not the main ones), after the first leaf, the growth point should be removed.
If the bush was formed correctly and on time, but the set fruits still do not grow, the reason should be sought in the following:
Parthenocarpic varieties of cucumbers during the period of fruit formation and ripening require weekly feeding, for example, mullein infusion with urea.
To obtain a cucumber harvest, female flowers must be pollinated by male flowers. But in practice, it often happens that only male flowers grow on a cucumber, and female flowers form much later. Gardeners call such an unpleasant phenomenon “barren flowers on cucumbers” and make every effort to fight it.
Therefore, we suggest you figure out why there are a lot of barren flowers on cucumbers and how to fix it.
Stages of development of cucumber flowers: above - male, below - female Cucumbers are monoecious plants, that is, they produce both male and female flowers on the same plant. As a rule, first male flowers form on the main shoot, female and hermaphrodite flowers mixed with male ones begin to form closer to the top, and over time, predominantly female flowers appear on the side shoots. But not all varieties produce male and female flowers at the same time. Considering that cucumber flowers bloom for only one day, this can become a serious problem.
Fortunately, this problem can be helped by artificially “stimulating” the plant to quickly form female flowers.
Do not forget that there are seedless (parthenocarpic) varieties of cucumbers that do not require pollination, and self-pollinating cucumbers, which have both a stamen and a pistil on one flower. But if we're talking about Regarding ordinary cucumbers, give preference to proven varieties from reliable producers that are suitable for your climate.
It’s one thing if you sow cucumbers from purchased seeds from a trusted manufacturer. It’s another matter if you decide to prepare cucumber seeds yourself. Ideally, for planting, you should take cucumbers that are four years old, or at least two or three years old, taken from a female cucumber. The female cucumber differs in appearance from the male cucumber in its tetrahedral shape, and has four, rather than three, seed chambers. Plants obtained from the seeds of a male cucumber (with three seed chambers) will a priori produce a lot of barren flowers.
Too fresh, last year's seeds also produce barren-flowering cucumbers. But if you really can’t wait to plant the seeds you received from cucumbers last year, warm them up for one or two months in a warm place - above the radiator, or simply hang them in the kitchen close to the ceiling. Alternatively, roast fresh cucumber seeds for two hours in drying chamber or oven at a temperature of 50-60 degrees, but this method must be used with great care.
Do not forget to prepare the seeds for planting - this not only improves the germination and vigor of seedlings, but also stimulates the production large quantity female rather than male flowers on cucumbers. To do this, cucumber seeds are soaked either in a solution of potassium permanganate, boric acid, or in commercial preparations according to the instructions.
And let us remind you once again that cucumber hybrids (F1) do not produce offspring.
The homeland of the cucumber is India, and India means light, warmth and moisture. And if climatic conditions in your region they are far from Indian, you will have to work hard, otherwise, barren flowers on cucumbers are guaranteed.
- proper watering cucumbers. Cucumbers need abundant watering, but not always - only before flowering and already during fruiting. During flowering, watering cucumbers is temporarily stopped. Why do they do this? Finding yourself in extreme conditions(V in this case- this is a lack of water), the plant urgently tries to leave offspring. This is the law of nature, and we will use this trick. But don’t overdo it - as soon as the soil dries out and the leaves of the plant wilt, a lot of female flowers will form on the cucumber vine. At this time, you can resume watering. Water for watering cucumbers should be taken not cold, but cool, summer water - around 25 degrees. When the air temperature is below 13-16 degrees, cucumbers should not be watered.
-cucumber lighting. Cucumber beds should not be made in shaded areas - light is vital for this plant. Education barren flowers on cucumbers It may also be due to too dense crops, when the plant does not receive enough light due to the shadow of its own lush leaves and vines.
- heat. At air temperatures above 27 degrees, the pollen of male flowers becomes sterile.
When there is a “skew” in nutrition, barren flowers also form on cucumbers. The most common type of nutritional imbalance is fattening of cucumbers, that is, too much nitrogen fertilizers against the backdrop of a shortage of potassium and phosphorus. The plant finds itself in such comfortable conditions that he has no need to take care of the offspring, and only male flowers are formed on such cucumbers. Therefore, in addition to nitrogen-containing fertilizers, do not forget to feed the cucumbers with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers: for example, before flowering, add a solution of mullein or chicken manure to the cucumbers, and during fruiting add superphosphate, potassium sulfate, or simple hood wood ash.
By the way, due to a lack of carbon dioxide, the formation of female flowers may also be delayed. Therefore, it would not be amiss to loosen the soil more often after watering or rain, cover the plants with mullein, install barrels with mullein directly in cucumber greenhouses - all this will help increase the concentration carbon dioxide, and the cucumbers will bloom less empty flowers.
As already mentioned, female flowers on cucumbers are formed mainly on the side vines. Pinching the cucumber vine will stimulate the growth of side shoots, which is what we are trying to achieve. Therefore for cucumbers early date ripening after 8-10 leaves, and for late ripening cucumbers - after 6-8 leaves, pinch the main shoot. This will not only reduce the amount of barren flowers on the cucumbers, but also reduce the thickening cucumber plantings, which will have a positive effect on the pollination of female flowers.
Finally, I would like to note that if there are a lot of barren flowers on the cucumbers, do not pick them off. If you correct the situation according to the recommendations described above, female flowers will soon appear on the plant, which someone will have to pollinate. Otherwise, the cucumber ovaries will turn yellow and fall off unfertilized. Thus, there should also be a barren flower on cucumbers, and having done its job - pollinating female flower, it will fall away on its own, without your help.
Before you find out how to increase the ovary on cucumbers, you need to know the main reasons for their wilting and drying of the ovaries.
The reasons for yellowing of the ovaries of cucumbers may be: characteristics of the cucumber variety, temperature changes, irregular watering, thickened planting of cucumbers, lack of nutrients, improper formation of bushes, as well as various plant diseases. All this can be monitored, prevented in advance and prevent yellowing of the ovaries on your plants. 
Yellowed ovaries inevitably fall off and cannot produce a harvest; accordingly, the yield of cucumbers from your plot decreases sharply. Therefore, it is in your interests to eliminate all causes of yellowing and falling of the ovaries.
Modern productive varieties cucumbers, especially those that do not require pollination, are distinguished by a large number of ovaries; they are located in each leaf axil. The plant cannot “feed” such a quantity of fruits, so it gets rid of some or all of the ovaries at once. To prevent this from happening, you should remove excess ovaries, cutting them off before the flowers bloom. On average, 25-30 fruits can form and ripen on one cucumber bush. 
Provided that only part of the ovaries turn yellow and dry out, and the rest develop normally, nothing needs to be done, the plant itself knows how many fruits it can feed.
It is not always possible to create favorable conditions for growing in a greenhouse. vegetable crops, many summer residents complain about temperature changes. So, during the day the sun heats the greenhouse, and at night it becomes cool, which leads to undesirable changes. As a rule, it is difficult to influence the temperature, so it is easier to provide the plants with good nutrition.
Cucumbers love water very much, but there are nuances here. Before cucumbers bloom and during fruiting, cucumbers need to be watered often - 3 times a week, and in hot weather - every day. However, during flowering, for the formation more female flowers, it is recommended to stop watering for several days so that the soil dries and the leaves wilt slightly. After the appearance of female flowers with ovaries, watering is immediately resumed, and in larger volumes than before flowering. If the soil is too dry at this time, the cucumber ovary will fall off. 
Another important point– do not water cucumbers with cold water. The temperature of water and soil should be approximately the same, around 23-25 degrees (ideally). Watering cucumbers with cold water not only promotes the appearance of a large number of male flowers, but also leads to yellowing and falling off of the cucumber ovaries.
Many people make this mistake and it often leads to the ovaries starting to turn yellow. Be sure to remove everything that somehow tries to “climb out” from the axils, which are located in the area of the first 3-5 leaves. In addition, all those stepsons on cucumbers that will definitely grow a little taller will need to be pinched above the 2nd leaf. Many people simply don’t do this at all, thinking that if they carry out pinching, the yield will be significantly reduced. But it is still necessary to do this. It often happens that stepsons actively grow from the sinuses, which are not present on the main lashes, but from those sinuses that are located on the stepsons. It is these same shoots that are called second-order shoots. They will definitely need to be pinched after the 1st leaf.
If cucumbers are planted too densely, the plants, during the growth process, suffer from a lack of nutritional area, which leads to the development of diseases and the fall of the ovaries. To avoid these unpleasant moments, always carefully study the information about planting frequency located on the back of the seed packages. And, following these instructions, carry out planting work. 
A very common cause is a lack of all essential nutrients in the soil. The fact is that for the formation of a fruit from the ovary, a lot of a substance such as potassium is consumed from the soil. If there is not enough of it in the ground, then the ovary cannot properly set and produce a harvest.
That is why it is necessary to constantly feed cucumber plants. During fruiting, cucumbers need potassium, and small quantities nitrogen. There is a lot of potassium in wood ash. And urea can act as a nitrogen fertilizer. However, it is best to feed cucumbers with liquid chicken or cow droppings.
Of the pests that bother cucumbers, the most annoying is the aphid, which affects plantings both open ground, and in greenhouses. Due to the precocity of this crop, use chemicals dangerous, so it is better to give preference to biological products such as Verticillin. You can also fight aphids with a strong stream of water or by rubbing the affected leaves with ash.
To strengthen plant immunity and prevent diseases such as ascochyta blight, powdery mildew, downy mildew, it is worth using “Gaupsin” or “Mikosan”. It is recommended to treat cucumbers with biological preparations after germination, when planting seedlings, during flowering and, of course, when the first signs of disease appear.
The more developed the root system, the stronger the plant. To have large, powerful roots in cucumbers, this needs to be done from the very moment of planting the seeds:
In order for plants to remain healthy throughout the growing season, it is necessary that the soil around the base of the stem is always dry. This will help avoid rotting of the root system. On those days when it is dry and sunny weather, with temperatures above +25 C, the temperature in the greenhouse can be very high even with regular ventilation.
It is also important to remember that both sprinkling and proper watering of cucumbers should be carried out with warm, heated water. The water temperature should be about +200C +250C, or even better, approximately the same temperature as the soil in the greenhouse. This will avoid damage to the surface root hairs and get a decent harvest from the plant. 
How to feed cucumbers to grow? The question is quite important, since cucumbers love well-fertilized soil, warm temperature and it is best to plant them in greenhouses or greenhouses.
In order for cucumbers to form multiple ovaries and have less empty color, it is necessary to use special preparations that help plants in this matter. Most often, summer residents and gardeners use preparations such as Epin or Zircon.
These products must be used according to the instructions included with the package. It is categorically undesirable to deviate in one direction or the other.
In addition, a remedy such as boric acid. This one is cheap affordable drug increases crop yield, stimulates germination planting material, and also nourishes the roots of plants.
Stepchildren of a cucumber are shoots that take away the plant’s strength, as a result of which it does not bear fruit. To avoid this, excess shoots must be removed. Usually, side shoots in the axils of the first 6 leaves are considered unnecessary. In addition, it is also recommended to get rid of ovaries in the axils of the first 4 leaves.
The pinching procedure must be carried out very carefully. It is extremely important not to damage the main shoot, as well as its flowers. To prevent this from happening, you need to slightly pull the leaves back with one hand, and carefully pinch off the excess sprout from the stem with the other. If cucumber planting is done correctly, the first cucumbers should appear by mid-July.
You can plant cucumbers when the stepsons reach a size of 4-6 cm. This way they can be seen better, but the plant has not yet spent too much effort on such stepsons. But if the stepsons reach sizes greater than 20 cm, then the loss of harvest may be 2.5 kg.
The pollination problem can be solved in the following ways. If you plan to grow cucumbers in a greenhouse, then it is better to take seeds of self-pollinating varieties. In open ground, you can use any variety - in this case, pollinating insects will come to the rescue. But even if you initially made a mistake with the variety for the greenhouse or the insects hid in cold summer conditions, you need to take pollination into your own hands. The greenhouse must be opened during the daytime. This will allow insects to fly in and also reduce too much high temperature in the heat of the moment. You can also use mechanically, i.e. independently transfer pollen from male flowers to female flowers. It is easy to distinguish them: the flower on the ovary is female, the barren flower is male. You need to touch the male flower with a soft brush, and then carefully, trying not to shake off the pollen, touch the female one. Repeat the procedure until all the flowers are pollinated.
Such a crop as cucumber is very common among summer residents. This vegetable is not very demanding, it grows both in greenhouses and in open ground, and shows excellent yield. But often gardeners, expecting a rich harvest, already at the stage of fruit formation on the cucumber vine, notice that there are ovaries on the cucumbers, but they stop growing. There are several reasons for this development of events.
If a summer resident is faced with the problem of ripening cucumbers on his plot, the main thing is not to despair and accept drastic measures. Otherwise, you may get too low a harvest of this crop or even be left without it. Having determined why the ovaries do not grow, you can take appropriate measures.
Sometimes gardeners have the following problem: there seems to be flowering, but for some reason the fruits are not formed. The cucumber has two types of inflorescence: male and female. And if there are no ovaries, it means that the plant has few female inflorescences, or they are not pollinated.
If at the beginning of flowering the cucumber has barren flowers, this is normal. A little later, the female ones should appear and begin to bear fruit. But if a lot of time has passed, and there are still no ovaries, then we need to act.
The reasons why there are no ovaries are different. But most often this happens due to the following reasons:
The late appearance of flowers is primarily due to poor quality seeds If seeds are planted with little time, they will actively produce male flowers, and female flowers will appear much later.
To prevent the late appearance of inflorescences, you need to plant seeds that are about two to three years old. In this case, female flowers appear simultaneously with male ones. But if the age is not known, then they can be warmed up before planting or, conversely, hardened with cold.
If there are no ovaries, then you need to look at the growing conditions. Perhaps the lighting, air or soil conditions are not suitable for cucumbers. If it is too cold, then the plants grow poorly and do not absorb useful material. Low illumination and high temperature environment very bad effect on plants. They stretch out, and the stems turn out to be frail and unhealthy, which may result in fruiting failure.
It is necessary to water in moderation so that the roots, especially before flowering, are moist all the time. But too much water will have a very bad effect. Because of this, ovaries may not form. In this case, the soil must be left without watering for several days. This will make it dry and the plant stems will wilt a little. Then many female inflorescences will appear. In this case, the main thing is not to overdo it with drought, otherwise it will only get worse.
Ovaries may also not form due to the fact that there is a lot of nitrogen fertilizer in the soil. The cucumbers then abundantly grow green mass, and at the same time many barren flowers are formed. If this happens, then in this case it is necessary to feed with phosphorus fertilizer. Dilute two large spoons in a bucket of water and apply to the soil. You can also make an infusion of ash and pour it over it.
An excellent impulse for the appearance of female inflorescences is shortening the tops of the stems. Thanks to these actions, the cucumbers will stop growing in length and female flowers will appear on the side stems.
When the situation is corrected and fruiting is restored, some begin to remove the male flowers. But if you leave them, they will not have any negative effect and will contribute to pollination, but their removal can lead to bad results. So you should leave the empty flowers, the plants will only be better for it.
