For comfortable living in a house, only walls and ceilings are not enough. You definitely need to think about heating frame house. Due to the fact that there are several heating systems, the choice is complicated. Let's try to put everything in its place!
Initially, frame houses came to us from Canada and the USA. Approximately 95% of such houses use air heating . This system requires that the heating of a frame house be designed together with the construction of the structure. Therefore, it is important to establish close communication with the system designer and the house designer. Thanks to this interaction between specialists, the air ducts will be hidden as much as possible in the ceiling structure.
With proper, coordinated work in the bedrooms, living room, corridors and dressing rooms, the heating system itself can be completely invisible. To ensure that the ceiling height is not hidden due to pipes, we recommend using an American duct joining system. In this case, they are joined together using special rails. Thanks to this, the metal parts will not stick out. This will increase the air space of the room, the stay in which will be more comfortable, and breathing will become much easier.
A gas heater supplies warm air to the ductwork system, causing air-fired heating to warm the entire home. As additional options, you can install an electronic filter, a humidifier and an ultraviolet air purification lamp into the system. An electronic filter, using cassettes built into it, ionizes the air space of the premises. During its use, all dust particles stick to special plates. In the future, when the filter becomes clogged, it is enough to rinse it under running water.
An evaporation unit is installed in the humidifier, through which water flows. Evaporation of liquid from its surface occurs due to blowing warm air, which is supplied from the air duct through the inlet channel. Using special sensors that are built into the return air duct system, the humidity in the house is monitored. To disinfect the air, they cut into the system of channels that provide air heating. ultraviolet lamps. They, with the help of a working element, ensure the removal of all pathogenic bacteria.
Air heating is controlled in a frame house thanks to a programmed thermostat. Some of them have Internet access. The priority in this case is that the adjustment can be done remotely.
The thermostat has heating ranges that are time-adjustable. Due to this, you can set different temperature levels for certain periods of the day. So, for example, when no one is at home, the air heating of the rooms can be reduced by a couple of degrees, and when you come home from work, the system itself will increase the temperature. This will save significant money. Also, using the ventilation panel, you can set the required ventilation mode.
Many people know that one of the most effective coolants is water. To use it to warm up the house, it is more traditional to use systems. Main feature This type, and at the same time the disadvantage, is that it warms up, first of all, the walls and only then the air. The temperature around the floor will always be several degrees lower than at head level.
This is determined by the laws of physics - warm air rises upward, and cold air is below. Therefore, the feet will always be located in a cold space. To heat a frame house with water radiators, it is necessary to lay pipes, radiators and risers along the walls. In this case, all heating elements will be visible. Therefore, a more careful design selection is required.
Probably, many remember that recent period when they installed in all apartments and houses. For a more presentable appearance, it was necessary to paint the radiator unit once every 1–2 years. But despite this main drawback, today they have the leading ability to withstand high pressure. They can also boast a long service life.
If the main thing when choosing is price, then you can pay attention to steel radiators. They look quite attractive. In terms of performance, they have good heat transfer and convection. Thanks to its price and positive characteristics, they have become widespread. But their main disadvantage is their susceptibility to corrosion.
Heating of the house can be carried out using aluminum radiators, which are divided into extrusion and cast. Cast ones have proven to be better in quality heating systems. An important advantage of aluminum radiators is their low weight and high heat transfer. The ease of their maintenance includes the fact that each section can be replaced individually. But when choosing such radiators, you should know that they do not like sudden pressure drops and are sensitive to chemical composition in the coolant. Also requires special attention connection of all sections. There are times when the thread fails.
Among the radiators that incorporate the characteristics of steel and aluminum heaters, bimetallic ones can be distinguished. Their ribs and outside surface made of aluminum. Inside there are steel channels through which water circulates. Essentially, it's almost the same aluminum radiator, only steel tubes are not subject to corrosion due to contact with water.
Thanks to aluminum, rooms warm up very quickly. Also to positive property can be attributed to the ability to withstand high pressures. These radiators boast excellent heat dissipation, attractive appearance and practicality. But, unfortunately, such heaters have a high price.
This type of heating is one of the youngest and modern systems. It uses pipes laid in the floor through which circulates warm water. In such a system, plastic tubes are laid evenly over the entire area of the room, thereby reducing temperature differences in various parts rooms.
The heated air will be evenly distributed throughout the entire volume of space. But what is important for health is that your feet will always be warm!
This system can reduce heating costs by heating water between 30 and 50 ºC. The room is quickly heated due to the uniform rise of heated air from the floor to the ceiling. Therefore, staying in a room with a lower coolant temperature is significantly more comfortable compared to other heating systems.
It can also be emphasized that with this heating option there are no batteries. Therefore, there is no need to think through the design combination of radiators with the interior. There is also room cleaning positive traits, which consist in the absence of dust on the floor. When there are small children in the house, the use of such a heating system will be invaluable. The child will play on a warm floor and there is no need to worry about drafts.
Among the disadvantages is that to install this system you have to raise the floor by 10 cm. It is much easier to do this when the house is just being built. You will also have to choose more carefully flooring, since warm floors are demanding on the thermal conductivity of the flooring. It is not recommended to lay thick carpets or use coatings with low thermal conductivity in places where pipes are laid. This will reduce the efficiency of the underfloor heating system significantly.
When choosing this type of heating, you should remember that it will be a huge problem to repair it. Therefore, it is necessary to comply with all available technology for laying and connecting pipes. It’s better not to save money and buy quality materials. It would be a good idea to entrust the installation process itself to specialists who will provide a guarantee for the work done.
Among modern heating systems frame houses You can also highlight a warm baseboard. It is a type of water heating. The point here is that radiators are laid along all the walls. They are only 20 cm high. The tubes and radiator elements themselves are hidden under a decorative protective profile. So small and great aesthetic appearance will add special sophistication to any room.
Its heat exchanger is made of copper-aluminum materials, so it has very good heat transfer. It is not susceptible to corrosion and is not afraid high pressure. The heat from such a baseboard is evenly distributed throughout the room, due to which there are no cold zones. Therefore, it is very comfortable to be in such a room.
I ask those who know to help with the boiler room piping diagram.
We are still almost illiterate in this matter
But we still tried to sketch out the diagram ourselves (we UNDERSTAND that not everything is in order there!)
Input data:
BOSCH 6000 BOSCH WBN6000-24H - wall-mounted gas single-circuit boiler with a closed combustion chamber,
BOSCH WSTB 200 C - floor water heater indirect heating, 200 l,
Gas, water - centralized.
Combined system - TP + radiators (possibly) - 1st floor, radiators - 2nd floor.
Frame house, 150 sq. m.
Input data:
House - frame, walls - 200 mm basalt wool(with cross insulation), siding, OSB, gypsum board. Windows-thermal package-2, 70 profile.
Gas, water - centralized, electricity - 10.5 kW, VOC.
Ventilation - PVU with recuperator.
Planned:
1st floor - TP (perhaps not enough, you will have to add radiators), 2nd floor - radiators. The coolant is water.
Questions:
1. TP in the vestibule is recommended - explain why not water?
2. Is it possible to cover the dressing room and vestibule with one branch of the TP? What is the best way to do this?
3. In the living room - entrance glazed door 1800x2000 (thermal package-2, 70-profile), threshold - aluminum, with thermal break.
How to minimize the flow of cold from the door into the room by laying TP pipes?
It is also possible to connect radiators to the living room-kitchen system.
4. Is the pipe still d16 or d20? Would STEP 150 over the entire surface be correct?
5. The pipe in the project was proposed by RAUTHERMS (REHAU), there is also a proposal for UNI-FITT 16 x 2.0 PE-Xb/EVOH, but for now we are inclined in favor of COMPIPE PE-Xa single-layer (good discount). What should you choose?
6. Foundation - slab, pie - from bottom to top - waterproofing (film), PSB-35 100 (two layers of 50 each), reinforcing mesh, TP pipe, semi-dry screed 50-70 mm.
We are planning to do the screed ourselves, so, naturally, it won’t be possible in one day. How to correctly position the damper tapes in this case?
7. Financial issue regarding collectors and mixing units - not cheap... we don’t want to spend extra money for the sake of the brand (there are 2 different ones in the offer).
What to do - which is better to choose? Or is there a third option?Perhaps there should be some other questions, but for me, what I have already figured out is already like a flight into space
We should quickly finish the communications and move into a house (we live in a rented house, we pay a mortgage for the construction site), but difficult and very difficult engineering issues for us are not quickly resolved...
It’s kind of boring to make final decisions ourselves...We will then live in this house, and we would only like peace of mind..
Regarding hiring an outside specialist, please do not mention it, this would probably be a solution to many problems... But we simply physically no longer have the funds for this...
Therefore, I ask for wise advice and recommendations...
Maybe you can also advise where to go for piping the boiler room...
Thanks in advance to everyone who responded...
Heating of a frame house can be carried out in any way available to you: from a Russian stove to the hi-tech technology of a heat pump or solar collector. The most important thing is to understand that in itself frame house neither warm nor cold. It is inert because its walls do not produce a single joule of energy. All the energy that will be used to heat the room is produced inside the frame house and it doesn’t matter what source. It is important that thermal energy dissipated into environment from home as slowly as possible. That is why we paid so much attention to insulation frame walls, building up the barrier between the internal space of the house and the infinite entropy of the universe. So, how can you get thermal energy at home:
1) Burn natural or liquefied gas;
2) Burn diesel fuel;
3) Burn coal or firewood (pellets, briquettes);
4) Use electricity to heat water and air.
In a separate line, we can mention energy-efficient technologies that make it possible to partially use the free energy of the sun, the bowels of the earth, etc.
All energy processing processes (combustion and heating) usually take place in a device that we usually call boiler. Depending on the fuel, it can be: liquid fuel, gas, solid fuel, electric, combined
Having received energy, it is necessary to distribute it among the rooms, and, if possible, save part of it for the future.
Here, in brief, are all the basics of heating engineering that you need to understand when planning the heating of a frame house.
Which boiler and fuel source should I choose? It depends on the funds you have. Of course, natural gas is the most convenient solution. Firewood, especially if it is free, can be very profitable, but you have to throw it into the firebox by hand.
So, classic scheme heating a frame house can be imagined like this:
1) The energy source is located outside. For example, firewood in a woodpile or natural gas in a Gazprom pipe;
2) In the boiler room there is a boiler that produces thermal energy from raw materials;
3) Thermal energy is supplied through pipes to underfloor heating loops or radiators.
There are, of course, options with infrared films, warm air heating and heat pump. But in most cases in modern house You will come across the diagram listed above. New heating systems are just entering the market and have not yet become widespread. When you choose a heating system for your frame house, first of all, evaluate the price of raw materials: what is cheaper for you now and will be available at a low price tomorrow. Everything else depends on the technical implementation.
For my frame house I chose the following solutions:
1) Due to the lack of opportunity to connect to the village gas pipe I chose electricity, wood and solar energy as the energy source for heating;
2) In the boiler room there is an electric boiler that heats water for the heat accumulator in the night electricity tariff mode; in the evening, it is possible to use a fireplace with a water jacket; on a sunny day, a vacuum collector on the roof heats water in the heat accumulator using free energy from the sun;
3) The heating system in the premises is represented by a water-heated floor in a screed.
This may not be a solution for everyone, this is just my choice. If you have gas, change all systems to 1 wall-mounted boiler and forget about all the bells and whistles. If you don't like heated floors, place radiators under the windows. Now there are a lot of interesting solutions on the market that can make any dreams come true: air heating, heat pumps, infrared heaters, solar collectors, fan coils and chillers...
The heating floor installation scheme was pre-designed and purchased installation materials(pipes, fittings, sensors). On the subfloor made of osb 18.3 mm I laid an inexpensive vapor barrier film. In my case, it was reinforced Izospan D. I taped the joints and attached the film with a stapler. Vapor barrier in in this case performs 2 functions: when pouring the screed, it prevents cement laitance from seeping down into the ceiling and insulation; together with the vapor barrier of the walls and ceiling, it creates a closed loop of a vapor barrier membrane.I laid a road mesh on the film with parameters 200 x 200 x 4 mm. The heated floor pipes will be attached to it in the future. The mesh is attached with self-tapping screws and pieces of punched paper tape to subfloor. Due to the fact that the mesh is not immersed in the middle of the screed, its reinforcing properties are reduced, but for normal operating conditions inside a residential building they are quite sufficient.
According to the project, we lay out a 16 mm PE-RT pipe. The length of 1 loop should not exceed 70 m. Ideally, the length of all pipes should be balanced, which allows for preliminary design. The pipes were laid in a snail pattern and secured with conventional electrical clamps.We install the floor collector, assemble all the pipes using fittings in common system. It is best to check the tightness by pumping air up to 6 atm. Do not pay attention to clever arguments on the Internet, which are reprinted from site to site, that pipes “stretch” under pressure and there is a certain graph of pressure loss over half an hour. All this is nonsense - a sealed system holds 6 atm. If the pressure decreases, listen to the whistling air near the manifold, use a soap solution and look for where the air is leaking. if we cannot find the place of insulation, then we check each loop, cutting off the others. I repeat, a sealed system holds pressure.
We install beacons (if necessary) and prepare a 3:1 sand-cement screed with plasticizer and fiber. You can mix with shovels or a concrete mixer, but we must remember that it is difficult to do this without crushed stone. Pay special attention to the production date of the cement and try to buy a “fresh” product. I poured the screed in strips along the beacons, since I did not have the skill to install a semi-dry one. After pouring there is no need to cover the screed with polyethylene. Simply closing the windows and doors is enough. Before pouring, do not forget to attach a damper tape around the perimeter of the rooms, which can easily be made from a thick laminate backing. When pouring, be careful with the pipes and control the pressure in the system. After the screed has hardened, remove the beacons and rub over with fresh solution. The height of the screed in my case was 50 mm. If you are planning to install a screed according to wooden floors- calculate spans taking into account additional load. Typically, a mass of 200 kg per m2 is taken for a residential premises. The weight of the screed depends on the concrete composition and thickness. We add the weight of the screed to the standard load on the floor and calculate the cross-section of the floor joist taking into account the full load.The collectors are installed on each floor and have special balancing valves that regulate the coolant flow in each loop depending on the indoor temperatures.
I especially want to dwell on the choice of coolant. Now, in addition to the usual water, non-freezing liquids have begun to be actively used, which reduce the risk of freezing of the heating system if it is stopped in winter. Please pay attention to the parameters of your boiler. Some manufacturers do not provide warranties on boilers unless water is used. In my opinion, in the event of a system breakdown, it is better to provide an additional source of energy for the circulator pumps if the issue cannot be resolved short term- It’s better to drain the system and do repairs. In this case, a fireplace or something from the series about stove heating will help you.
The boiler is connected to radiator lines or underfloor heating collectors according to standard schemes boiler room piping. I am a small expert in this matter, so I will not waste your time. In my case everything was done according to standard scheme using copper and soft solder. Required elements piping: circulator pump, safety group, taps for replenishing the system with water and draining it. In general, classical system closed type heating.
IN Lately many people prefer quiet high-rise buildings to the bustle of the city country cottages. Buy ready house with all the amenities not everyone can afford. Self-construction made from familiar materials like brick or modern foam blocks will also cost the owner a tidy sum. The construction of a frame house will allow you to significantly save costs.
It is a multilayer structure in the shape of a sandwich. The basis is a frame made of timber, which is sheathed with outer and inner layers. The inner layer is a heat-insulating filler.
This design allows you to increase the heat-saving capacity of the building several times. But the house itself is not a source of heat, so in harsh winter conditions it is necessary to provide a frame-panel house.
Depending on the type of source, the heating system can be used as follows:
What heating to choose for a frame house? Let us consider the features of all varieties in more detail.
Heating a frame house with electricity provides three options:
Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. The first method is more expensive in terms of energy consumption. The second one is more economical, but severe frosts one such source will not be enough to heat the entire house.
Convector heating
The number of convectors should be calculated on the basis that one heating element serves an area of 20 m². Installation costs are quite small, but if you take into account the constantly growing cost of electricity, heating a frame house with convectors will be quite expensive.
Warm floor
This type can be used for any floor covering - ceramic tile, laminate, parquet, linoleum. To heat a room with an area of 20 m², it is sufficient to lay heating pipes in a frame house on an area of 15 m². Only the free space of the room is used; there is no need to install a heating system under the furniture.
Laying features
The correct layout of pipes is carried out according to project diagrams or the drawing is carried out independently. Equip electric heating frame house does not present any particular difficulties, but in order to get high-quality coating It is advisable to adhere to the following recommendations:
So, a frame house is heated, the video will clearly demonstrate all the details.
Electric boiler
The use of home heating based on an electric boiler is more popular than others. The main element in them is the heating element, which allows you to transform electrical energy in the warmth. Compared to heating with convectors, heating a frame house with an electric boiler will be very economical in terms of energy consumption.
Installing heating in a frame house , Be sure to comply with electrical safety requirements:
Before starting installation work, you must make sure that the walls can support the weight of the boiler. Also, so that there is free access to it, when possible works for repairs.
gas heating system for frame house
Gas heating of a frame house also has its pros and cons. Despite the relatively low cost natural gas Compared to electricity, the cost of installing such heating will be quite high. If we take into account the fact that assembling a house is valued for its low construction costs, then furnishing an expensive gas equipment will be unprofitable.
On high cost Heating of a frame house is influenced, first of all, by the fact that it is impossible to carry out installation on your own. The installation of gas equipment will require special permits, as well as a mandatory project certified by all authorities. In addition, only qualified specialists can install heating a frame house with gas.
It is based on the principle of increasing the thermal efficiency of the building. The walls have an insulated structure due to their multi-layer nature. A factor to consider in this case is additional ventilation. It is necessary to ensure that the walls “breathe”. It is mainly used in Europe and America.
Two conditions in this case - forced ventilation and air heating of a frame house, using special heat exchangers. Air heating of a frame house allows you to significantly save a significant amount; the price depends on the capabilities of the owner. The unit can be equipped with cheap mechanical filters or use a more expensive option. Air option in our country it is used only as stove heating for a frame house.
It is based on natural resource – solar energy. To do this, you will need a special device - a solar collector. You can purchase it ready-made, or you can also make it yourself. In order to make heating for a frame house with your own hands, you will need:
The battery is installed on the roof. The area where the arrangement will be carried out should be black for better heat transfer. The container should be placed in the attic. It must be carefully insulated and insulated to retain heat.
You can purchase and install ready-made solar collector heating for a frame house. Reviews show that the option installed independently will cost the owner less investment.
More on the topic.
.jpg)
