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» Do-it-yourself potbelly stove: diagram of a homemade potbelly stove for a summer house and garage. Long-burning potbelly stove: a simple design for making with your own hands The best option for a potbelly stove made from a pipe (drawings)

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove: diagram of a homemade potbelly stove for a summer house and garage. Long-burning potbelly stove: a simple design for making with your own hands The best option for a potbelly stove made from a pipe (drawings)

Heating technical premises often becomes a real problem. Electricity is expensive, resulting in high heating costs. The best way out is to use alternative energy sources. This can be firewood, coal, anthracite and much more.

Furnaces of various formats are used to burn solid fuels. One of them is a potbelly stove, characterized by extreme simplicity and low cost.

In this review we will talk:

  • About the features of potbelly stoves;
  • About the materials needed for their assembly;
  • ABOUT step by step assembly potbelly stoves.

Upgrading the potbelly stove will also be considered, which will help increase its efficiency. The article will be interesting - read and get acquainted.

What is a potbelly stove?

Potbelly stoves have been known among our compatriots for a very long time. They gained their popularity due to their extreme simplicity. A simple metal box with a door and a blower - and the simplest version of the stove is already ready. Considering the ingenuity of our people, this world has seen many different bourgeois women, delighting their owners with the coveted warmth. Let's see what you can assemble such a stove from:

You can make a potbelly stove not only from a used safe or a well-worn gas cylinder, but also by simply welding several sheets of durable metal together.

  • From an old gas cylinder - great option, all that remains is to find the cylinder itself (you will get a horizontal or vertical stove). Plump modifications are suitable here, since thin and tall oxygen cylinders are too narrow;
  • From an old flask - someone probably has such a thing lying around in their garage or barn. There is already a door here, all that remains is to attach the chimney;
  • From old barrel– they are often used to make homemade potbelly stoves long burning, since the capacity of the barrels allows you to organize a large combustion chamber;
  • There is no point in throwing away the old safe, it will still serve.

Homemade potbelly stoves can also be made from sheet metal - for this you need to arm yourself with suitable tools.

The construction of a potbelly stove is extremely simple. Its basis is a certain capacious container, which plays the role of a combustion chamber. A pipe emerges from its upper or rear part, to which the chimney is attached. In the front part there are two doors (less often one) - fuel is loaded through the large one, and ash is removed through the small one. The internal space is divided by a metal grate through which air is supplied - through which the ash formed during the combustion of wood is removed.

The lower door simultaneously acts as a blower - by adjusting the degree of its opening, you regulate the intensity of the flame and the temperature in the room.

The dimensions of the potbelly stove can be very different, for example, 250x450x450 mm (WxDxH). A gas cylinder will make a larger and more efficient stove. Most big size the stove will be made from a barrel - after all, the internal volume of 150-200 liters accommodates a huge amount of firewood. You can make a unit of almost any size - you don’t even have to worry too much about strictly observing the dimensions indicated in the drawings.

Scope of application for potbelly stoves

These simple stoves are in great demand. For their work they use firewood, coal, coke, wood waste and many other types of fuel, pleasing with its unpretentiousness and stable operation. Such a stove can be placed in the garage - it will take up minimal space, but will provide the room with pleasant warmth. If you have a large supply of firewood or access to a cheap source of solid fuel, feel free to build a long-burning potbelly stove.

Wood is the simplest, cheapest and most widely available type of fuel for stoves. However, its consumption leaves much to be desired.

A mini potbelly stove can be used to heat a barn or home utility room that does not have heating. Agree, doing something here in winter is not so comfortable - your teeth chatter and your muscles cramp. And with the stove, things immediately go smoothly - just have time to add firewood so as not to freeze.

Long-burning potbelly stoves are useful not only for the garage, but also for any other premises, including residential ones - these can be temporary buildings, cottages, poultry houses, premises for keeping livestock and much more. In general, the scope of their application is huge. They are most in demand in towns and villages where there is no gas, but residential and non-residential buildings need to be heated somehow.

Advantages and disadvantages

Let's see what's good about homemade potbelly stoves made by folk craftsmen:

  • Cheap - most materials can be found for free or you can pay mere pennies for them;
  • Omnivorous - in fact, any solid fuel can burn in a potbelly stove;
  • Simple design - if we look at the drawings, we will not find anything complicated in them;
  • Possibility of cooking - for this purpose, potbelly stoves are equipped with cooking holes with lids;
  • Ease of operation - provided there is a good chimney, the potbelly stove will work properly and without causing smoke in the entire room.

Unfortunately, heating with a potbelly stove also has its disadvantages:

  • Low efficiency of the stove - without proper modernization, most of the heat will fly into the chimney;
  • Not the most respectable appearance - although some craftsmen make real works of art out of potbelly stoves;
  • High body temperature can cause burns;
  • High fuel consumption - in order for the stove to retain heat for a long time, without requiring the burning of tons of wood, you will have to resort to tricks.

Despite some shortcomings, simple potbelly stoves wood burning stoves are still in demand among those who need heat in the absence of a gas main.

How to make a potbelly stove with your own hands

You can make a potbelly stove with your own hands surprisingly quickly. First you need to decide what material it will be made of. Prepare the following tools:

A home-made potbelly stove can have the most intricate and elaborate appearance. Show your imagination and you can get a unique thing, which cannot be found anywhere else in the world.

  • Grinder (angle grinder);
  • Welding machine;
  • Sandpaper and file for processing metal edges;
  • Tape measure for measuring sizes;
  • A powerful drill and suitable drill bits.

Let's see how to cook a potbelly stove with good heat transfer for a summer house or garage from an iron barrel.

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove from a barrel

The simplest option is a potbelly stove made from a large-volume barrel (150-200 liters). It needs to be supplemented with grates, doors and a chimney. We begin the manufacture of the stove by constructing a reliable non-combustible base. The best option– lay out a small brickwork on which the barrel itself will stand. It will take several days to make it. After this, we proceed to further work.

In the front wall of our potbelly stove, you should cut a rectangular hole for the loading door - use a metal jigsaw for this. The resulting piece of metal will act as our door - we attach a rotating lock, handle and hinges to it. After this, we weld the second part of the loops to the barrel. We weld on the opposite side metal loop, into which the constipation will fit.

At the bottom you need to make an ash pan with another door. We allocate 10-15% of the total volume for it. We make the door using the method described above, but it should be narrower - the ash is raked out through it, and it also serves as an ash pit. Optimal height– 40-50 mm. Next, we proceed to the manufacture of grates:

  • Cut off the top lid of the barrel;
  • We make a grate from segments metal pipes(you should get a circle with long slits);
  • We weld the grate with inside barrels, between the loading door and the ash pan door.

An old can or flask is also a great option. Using it, you free yourself from the need to weld the loading door.

We make a hole in the lid with a diameter of 100 mm, weld a small piece of pipe of the same diameter here - this will be the chimney hole. Next, weld the lid in place. Our potbelly stove is ready, all that remains is to attach a chimney to it and we can start testing - load the wood and try to light the flame.

We have made a long-burning potbelly stove with our own hands - it has an extremely large combustion chamber. Please note that you can make a cooking hole in the top lid - its diameter is 100-150 mm. Instead of a barrel, you can easily use a gas cylinder or a piece of pipe suitable diameter. Remember that a potbelly stove made from a pipe and a cylinder must have a sufficiently large diameter (at least 350-400 mm).

If necessary, you can make a similar potbelly stove in a horizontal design - you just need to slightly change its design. Otherwise, the assembly principle does not change.

The most efficient stove is a pyrolysis stove, which burns the remaining flammable gases and releases a large amount of heat compared to other stoves. There is no need to think that this will be a complex unit. Making a potbelly stove of this type will take you about 20 minutes longer than a conventional unit without pyrolysis. Let's see how it is produced.

A unit welded from sheet metal with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm. Using thin iron does not make much sense - the stove will be too thin, the heat will bend it, and in the end it will be destroyed by corrosion. So find steel thick enough so that you don't have to make a new furnace every heating season.

We need to cut out seven pieces of metal (our iron thickness is 3 mm):

The main advantage of using sheet metal is that you can make a potbelly stove of any size and volume.

  • Two pieces measuring 450x450 mm are the side walls;
  • Four pieces measuring 450x250 mm are the front, rear, top and bottom walls;
  • One piece measuring 440x240 mm will be the grate;
  • Two pieces measuring 244x350 mm will be the internal partitions.

Thus, we will get a Loginov furnace, which has two internal partitions to increase efficiency. These same partitions will be responsible for pyrolysis.

We make two doors in the front wall - in accordance with the instructions described above. Next, we weld all the pieces into a metal box without a top lid. The next stage is making the grate. To do this, we take a metal sheet and make many holes in it with a diameter of 10-15 mm. We fix the grate at a height of 80 mm from the bottom of the stove. Next, we weld the partitions, placing them at a height of 60 and 120 mm from the top cover.

We make a couple of small holes on the back surface and weld thin metal tubes (10-15 mm in diameter) into them. They should be located above the lower partition, extending to the front wall. Their length is about 150 mm - secondary air will be sucked through them. The tubes are welded before securing the second partition.

We prepare the top cover - we cut a hole in it with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney. If necessary, we supplement the wood-burning stove cooking hole. We weld the lid to our stove - everything is ready! Now we install the stove on staff position and let's start testing. And yes, don’t forget to attach legs to it or install it on a non-combustible base (for example, made of brick).

The height of the chimney for potbelly stoves is at least one meter. Optimal indicator– 1.5-2 meters from the horizontal outlet or top cover.

Modernization of potbelly stoves

Now you know how to properly make a potbelly stove so that it can be used for heating country house, garage or utility room. But we need the furnace to be efficient - to provide maximum energy while burning a minimum of fuel. You will be surprised, but one possible variant We have already considered modernization - the pyrolysis unit presented above is an improved version. Take out the partitions from there, and you will get the most banal stove-stove.

The choice of chimney pipes should be approached with special attention- pipes that are too thin or poorly welded will quickly burn out, which will lead to smoke in the room.

Not only pyrolysis will help increase the efficiency of the stove. If you look at the drawing of the potbelly stove given above (made of sheet metal), you will notice that the unit is covered on three sides with metal sheets. They are spaced 50 mm from the body and play a protective role. But that's not all - in internal space draft is formed, the process of convection occurs. Thanks to this, the efficiency of the potbelly stove increases.

The next stage of modernization is the creation of a chimney bend. The thing is that a gigantic amount of heat escapes through it into the atmosphere. By increasing the length of the chimney using a horizontal section, we can use it to heat the room.

The disadvantage of this approach is the deposition of soot on a horizontal area. Often homeowners prefer to assemble simple and useful homemade products

from scrap and unnecessary materials, instead of buying ready-made ones. And a potbelly stove is one of these useful devices.

The main feature of a potbelly stove is that it heats up as quickly as it cools down. Therefore, the scope of its use is narrowed mainly to those rooms where it is necessary to provide rapid heating, while the appearance of the device is often completely unimportant for the user.

You can make a potbelly stove with your own hands, and, if desired, modernize it to achieve more efficient heat transfer. Are you also thinking about assembling such a homemade product and don’t know where to start? We will help you complete the task - the article discusses the assembly procedure various options

homemade stoves, drawings and diagrams are provided.

Also discussed in detail are ways to improve a homemade potbelly stove, as a result of which the efficiency of the stove will become noticeably higher.

The choice of furnace design depends on what material is used as fuel. Each user himself determines the degree of its availability and economic feasibility.

It is the combustible material, which has different temperatures and combustion patterns, that dictates the principles for creating different modifications of the device. The shape of the potbelly stove can be different, often it depends on the availability. This could be an old can, a gas cylinder, a metal container - whatever is at hand. The main thing when choosing it is the thickness of the metal and the shape, which requires a minimum of alterations.

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A grate made of grate (it can be welded from reinforcement) is placed at the bottom of the chamber, under which ash will accumulate. You can also arrange hob. It is easier to do this on a horizontally located cylinder by welding corners on it on both sides.

It’s good if the barrel initially has legs. If not, you need to weld them or install the stove on bricks.

A potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder can also be used as a basis for the further construction of a hot water column, as it is also called “Titan”. To do this, a stainless container is installed on top of the stove, through which the chimney pipe passes.

The water in a wood boiler heats up quickly, and little firewood is used - in summer time One bookmark in a small firebox is enough.

A metal container with walls at least 3 mm thick is also suitable for a potbelly stove. The open top of the container is closed with a circle of metal sheet and brewed.

A hole is cut out in the lid or wall for the chimney. Its diameter should be at least 100-150 mm. The top of such a potbelly stove will heat up so much that you can cook food and heat water on it.

We also have more on our website detailed instructions with diagrams and drawings for manufacturing.

Features of a sawdust stove

If there is no shortage of sawdust on the farm, then this type of fuel will fully justify its use. Such a potbelly stove does not require frequent loading - the compacted sawdust inside does not burn, it smolders slowly, releasing thermal energy gradually and providing heat for a long time.

A self-made sawdust stove operates on the principle of long-term combustion. The slow combustion process saves resources - heat does not immediately fly out into the chimney, heating the atmosphere

The basis of the furnace can be a metal barrel with an open top (if the container is sealed, the top is cut off) or a pipe with a diameter of 300 to 600 mm.

Then a metal circle is cut out of a sheet three or more millimeters thick, which should be smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel. In its middle, a hole with a diameter of 100 mm is cut under a cone for compacting sawdust.

The workpiece is welded to the walls of the barrel. Using this circle, the ash pit is fenced off - in it, with the help of shavings or wood chips, ignition will be carried out. The height of the ash pan should be 100-200 mm.

Below the welded circle, a window is cut out, which will serve as a blower. Curtains are welded to the cut piece of metal, making a door for the same hole.

An exit to the chimney is made in the lid of the container. The lid must fit tightly onto the potbelly stove and be made of a fairly thick sheet, otherwise it will quickly burn out.

In order for sawdust to burn gradually, it is necessary to ensure a limited supply of oxygen to the fuel compartment. To do this, a cone-shaped core is inserted inside the firebox, sawdust is poured around it and compacted. The cone is carefully removed, turning, and the lid is put on the barrel.

The same model can be improved by adding an additional cylinder. In this option, the sawdust will be in the inner chamber, and the space between the two compartments will serve to burn gases and increase the heating area. In this option, the outlet of smoky gases is arranged in the lower part of the stove.

How can you improve your potbelly stove?

An ordinary potbelly stove has a lot of positive qualities, but also has many significant disadvantages. It is unable to accumulate heat and heats the room while the fire is burning. Requires continuous fuel supply, on average every 30-40 minutes.

In addition, a large amount of heat escapes through the chimney into the atmosphere, bringing no benefit. That is why work on improving the potbelly stove is ongoing.

The standard design of a potbelly stove has many modernized designs that allow:

  • save fuel;
  • increase the efficiency of the stove;
  • increase heat capacity;
  • reduce the frequency of fuel filling.

The most common methods for increasing the efficiency of a potbelly stove are creating a slow burning mode, a gas afterburning system, and installing heat-resistant lining of the internal walls.

You can also improve the quality performance of the stove by increasing the heat transfer area using welded pipes and an installed fan that will drive air flows through them.

The industrial model of such a potbelly stove is called “Buleryan”, but besides it, there are many more various designs made in a handicraft way. We recommend watching detailed master class By homemade production.

You can increase the heat transfer time if you line the stove with brickwork. Such a potbelly stove will heat up more slowly, but will also give off heat longer, maintaining the temperature in the room for some time after the fire has died down.

Are you interested in brickwork? We have it on our website detailed guide do it yourself with diagrams and drawings.

Option #1 – stove with increased fuel load

This model is designed to increase efficiency and continuous burning time. The basis is taken as a horizontal rectangular potbelly stove on massive, stable legs and complemented with a cassette made of a blind sealed cylinder. Such design additions significantly increase its efficiency.

A flange is welded to a cassette cylinder about 400 mm high. After installing the cylinder into the burner hole, its edge should fall 5-10 mm below the stove plate. To make it easy to install and remove the cylinder, handles are welded to its body.

The cylinder is filled with firewood in such a way that there is some space between them and when installing it on the stove, they can immediately fall onto the burning coals

How does a potbelly stove work:

  1. The lower part of the firewood, falling on the coals of the preparatory ignition, flares up. In this case, the upper part, located in the cassette, will not burn due to lack of oxygen, but will dry under the influence of hot smoke.
  2. Under the weight of its own mass and as it burns, the firewood gradually falls into the firebox.
  3. The hot gas, which is in the cylinder for some time, gives off heat to it, thereby increasing the heat transfer area in the room. In this case, the cylinder cover can serve as a cooking surface.
  4. At the same time, the temperature of the exhaust smoke decreases, which means the heat capacity and efficiency of the potbelly stove increases.

As a result of this modernization, the time interval between laying firewood increases and the efficiency of using the stove increases.

Option #2 – long-burning potbelly stove “Bubafonya”

The low efficiency of a conventional potbelly stove is a fact that has long been known and verified by many users.

One of the methods to increase it is to slow down the combustion process by limiting the flow of air into the combustion chamber. This improvement can be found in such stoves as “Bubafonya” and “Filipina”.

This stove model is used in non-residential premises- workshops, greenhouses, and other outbuildings. To work for 9-12 hours, one stack of small firewood, chips, and sawdust is enough. Coarsely chopped and damp firewood cannot be used in this heating device model.

A potbelly stove can be created from any metal tank. Most often they use a barrel of fuel and lubricants or an old cylinder.

Manufacturing is carried out in the following sequence:

  • A combustion chamber is prepared from an accessible cylindrical container, in the upper part of which a hole is cut for the chimney.
  • A circle is cut out of metal (at least 10 mm thick), slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel.
  • A hole with a diameter of 100-150 mm is made in the center of the circle (the exact size depends on the diameter of the rod pipe used).
  • Ribs up to 50 mm high are welded onto one of the planes of the circle.
  • A pipe is welded to the center of the circle. Its length is calculated so that the piston, when lowered, rises above the reservoir lid by approximately 100 mm. If you leave the pipe longer than necessary, draft will arise in it and it will begin to smoke.
  • Next, they build a lid that will fit tightly on the barrel and cut a hole in it that fits the piston pipe

You can further increase the efficiency of this model by organizing the supply of air from the street into the firebox. Thus, heated air from the room will not fly out into the chimney.

Option #3 – furnace with secondary combustion “Filipina”

The furnace uses two methods to increase its efficiency, based on the principles of long-term combustion and pyrolysis. To make it, you will need two gas cylinders, which will serve as chambers for primary and secondary combustion.

The sequence of actions for making a potbelly stove is as follows:

  1. The cylinders are prepared for use by releasing the remaining gas from them and filling them with water. Without this procedure, it is absolutely impossible to cut them, otherwise the sparks that are formed during the operation of the angle grinder can provoke a gas explosion, a certain amount of which always remains in the cylinder.
  2. In the first cylinder, which will serve as a chamber for the firebox and ash pan, remove the tap and cut off the top (it is used to make the door), and cut out a hole for installing a chimney.
  3. Opposite the hole for the chimney, a pipe is welded, the other end of which should not rest against the lid of the second chamber, leaving free space for smoke to escape.
  4. At the outlet of the pipe from the first cylinder, a metal ring is welded; it will serve as a support for installing the upper cylinder. Holes are drilled in it.
  5. A metal ring is also welded to the second cylinder where the top is cut, in which the locations for the holes are marked, focusing on the holes already made in the first ring.
  6. Before finally installing the second cylinder, an air supply pipe is inserted into it.
  7. Place the upper chamber on the pipe, aligning the holes, wind a heat-resistant rope between the rings, and secure the connection with screws.
  8. The chimney exit is made from the bottom of the secondary combustion chamber.

To obtain a stable structure, reliable legs are welded to the lower chamber. Install the door on the awnings. It can be further improved by adding the ability to regulate the air entering the firebox.

A potbelly stove is a compact iron stove with a chimney at the top. It consists of a chamber into which solid fuel is poured, a grate in the form of a metal grate, a pipe - a chimney and an ash pan for collecting ash.

If you know how to handle a welding machine, the device is easy to make, and at the same time, it will serve faithfully in unheated room, in field conditions, in the absence of centralized heating, for decades.

How to do it yourself?

Manufacturing options:

Rectangular oven

It is a metal box; you can independently weld the structure from steel sheets. For a rectangular potbelly stove, an old car tank or box will do just fine.


Typically, this form is chosen when it is necessary to cook food on the stove.

On the spacious platform you can place 2 large pans or containers for heating water at once.

The manufacturing principle is simple: doors are built to cover the ashpit and combustion chamber, a hole is made for the chimney, combustion products must leave the room in a timely manner, otherwise you can inhale carbon monoxide.

From a gas cylinder

The most common type of potbelly stove. The cylinders have thick walls, making the stove durable, mobile, and fireproof.


First, a drawing is drawn and markings are made. The combustion chamber door will be located in the center of the cylinder. The blower is in the same plane, only 10–12 cm lower.

Instructions:

  1. We take an angle grinder, cut out both doors, draw a closed line between them.
  2. Along the line cut the balloon into 2 parts.
  3. At the bottom We weld the grate - the ash pan.
  4. Install grate, weld both parts again.
  5. For valve make a hole with a radius of 10 cm.
  6. For hood insert a hole into the pipe, weld objects together by welding.
  7. Simple stove from the cylinder is ready, you can use it, add fuel and check its operation.

For cooking on the top of the stove, the design is slightly different:

  1. Cut off the top of the balloon.
  2. Inserted inside and the rods are welded.
  3. Top side a hole for the pipe is cut. You can heat and cook food at the same time.
  4. The hole is welded, the valve is screwed in, a comfortable handle is adjusted.
  5. From the pipe, barrels can also be made into a furnace. The barrel or pipe must be selected according to its diameter.
  6. Below the barrel pipes, cut 2 holes for the firebox and ash pan.
  7. Make the doors.
  8. Do framing holes made of metal strips.
  9. Under the fire door At a distance of 10 - 12 cm inside the barrel, weld brackets in the corners, the grate will lie on them, pre-weld it from any fittings.

When making a stove from a pipe, weld the bottom, as well as the part on top:

  1. Down to the bottom weld 4 legs.
  2. On a surface cut a hole, weld a pipe to it, this will be a chimney.
  3. Weld the hinges to the previously cut holes, install the doors. Also, mark and attach a hook so that the doors lock tightly.
  4. For design aesthetics process all welding seams, clean them 10. Paint the outside of the device with heat-resistant paint. Whatever the factory product, you can sell it or successfully use it yourself.

Working furnace

The option is distinguished by a specific odor that oil waste will emit during fuel combustion, even in the presence of an exhaust hood.

Instructions:

  1. To make this model, pick up sheet material at least 4 mm thick, a chimney pipe, and individual small structural elements.
  2. Do it on a sheet precise markings of all elements, having previously drawn a drawing.
  3. Embed all elements with a grinder, clean the edges of the parts. Drill holes round shape in the pipe.
  4. Top of the tank cut a hole for the pipe off center to the left.
  5. Offset to the right Drill a hole on the circle for the connecting pipe.
  6. It turned out to be 2 circles, weld them to the pipe; the thickness of the upper tank will depend on its length.
  7. Decorate the bottom part of the stove in the same way., but now cut the hole right in the center of the marked circle.
  8. Cut side by side second hole, attach the sliding cover to it.
  9. Weld to the bottom plane 4 legs.
  10. Clean seams after welding, paint the surface with high temperature resistant paint.
  11. Connect the chimney to the stove. The waste will be poured into the lower part of the tank; after the paper is ignited, the sliding lid closes and the waste begins to burn. Oxygen will penetrate through the holes, and the waste will burn intensely.

Necessary materials, tools

Before starting work, prepare the tools:

  • metal brush;
  • chisel, pliers, hammer;
  • tape measure, chalk;
  • drill with metal drills;
  • sander;
  • metal circles;
  • welding machine;
  • protective mask;

For the body you will need a pipe 30 cm in diameter, at least 5 mm thick. Can be used instead of a pipe sheet metal the same thickness.

For the chimney, you should select a pipe 12 cm in diameter, with a thickness of at least 3 - 4 mm. To prevent burnout, a metal box is suitable for the ash pan, so you need to choose durable sheet metal.

Step by step guide

First you need to cut the metal, taking into account the thickness and length of the required blanks.

Remove the chamfers from the parts, touching the stove will be safer, and the welding seams will be stronger:

  1. Check that the parts are correctly marked before you start cutting them. When cutting, take into account the thickness of the oven walls, as well as the thickness of the circle.
  2. Remove the chamfers from the prepared parts for safety from accidental contact with a hot device.
  3. Check all part markings.

The structure is installed in the following sequence:

  1. Connect welding machine to the network.
  2. Take electrode with a thickness of 4 - 5 mm, taking into account the sheet or pipe.
  3. Install current on the device is up to 160 A.
  4. Put it on special glasses and overalls, protect your hands with gloves.
  5. To the bottom of the oven weld three walls.
  6. Bottom of the device place it at least 5 cm from the floor.
  7. Connect parts at right angles. Check their perpendicularity with a level.
  8. Where you need it, straighten the corners of the parts.
  9. Weld parts and joints relative to the floor level, at an angle of 45 degrees.
  10. Weld a partition between the ash pit and the firebox, having previously cut holes so that ash does not accumulate.
  11. Endure the distance between the holes is at least 5 cm from the walls of the stove. The distance between the partition and the bottom of the structure must remain at least 10 cm.
  12. Last but not least by welding, cut holes for installing the chimney on the rear panel homemade stove.
  13. Make your markings, drill rectangular holes in the places intended for the firebox and ash pan.
  14. Combine with a partition all the lower parts of the holes. The distance between the walls of the firebox and the upper side edges should be at least 3 - 5 cm. The opening for the vent is slightly smaller, but not more than 5 cm.
  15. Bulgarian cut two holes from metal and form doors. Weld them onto the canopies, raise the blower as much as possible to the top of the slab opening so that they do not sag in the future under the influence of high temperatures.
  16. To the doors Weld the bolts, they should open and close easily, without obstacles.

After all welding work, check the quality of the seams and tap them. If there are defects, correct them immediately. At the end of the work, weld top part devices.

How to make a long-burning potbelly stove?

To ensure that the potbelly stove radiates heat for as long as possible without adding another portion of firewood, and does not burn out quickly, it is possible that the fuel will not burn, but smolder, the heating process without adding firewood can be extended for several hours.


Making a stove for long burning is somewhat different from the usual design.

The best cylinder for the stove is:

  1. Cut the top off of it, this will be the stove lid.
  2. Make a hole at the top and side of the stove, this will be the hood.
  3. Make a hole in the center so that the balloon can be easily inserted.
  4. Weld to the cut hole of the pancake a pipe, slightly longer than the cylinder. The pipe will serve as a blower, and oxygen will flow into the furnace, and the fuel will not smolder and not burn.
  5. Cut off part of the cylinder in the center, insert a pipe into the hole as a blower. The operating principle of a long-burning potbelly stove is to create pressure inside the chamber. After the firewood ignites, a heavy metal circle plunges inside and begins to put pressure on the fuel, creating pressure on it, the fuel begins to lack oxygen and slowly smolder. The smoke, going upward, comes out through the chimney, the room will not be smoky.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any other heating device, the stove has both pros and cons.

The undoubted advantages of a homemade stove are:

  1. Compact size.
  2. Use of any available fuel, can be heated with peat, firewood, sawdust, wood chips, and coal.
  3. Low cost of manufacturing the device, you can basically make do with handy materials.
  4. Installation of the structure does not require laying a foundation or chimney.

The disadvantages of the stove include:

  1. Fairly high consumption fuel material, the principle is this: while you heat it, it’s warm. To keep the room from cooling down, you need to add fuel more often, otherwise you may simply freeze.
  2. Furnace walls They become very hot and can cause burns if they come into contact.
  3. Can't be allowed coals falling out of the stove can cause a fire.

Where can it be used?

Stoves were popular in the first half of the last century. They warmed the soldiers' dugouts, dugouts, and heated carriages.

Today the stoves are still heated garden houses, garages, warehouses, greenhouses, that is, where there is no gas pipeline, and electrical devices They are ineffective and burn a lot of electricity.

Types of homemade potbelly stoves

The material for the construction is cast iron or stainless steel. The stove consists of a container, an ash pan, a pipe, a chimney, and a combustion door.

They are distinguished by type:

  • pyrolysis furnaces;
  • with a cooking platform on top for cooking;
  • furnaces lined with a casing for efficient heat transfer. For homemade products, you can pick up an old cylinder, a barrel, a large vat, or a can. Furnaces can be cylindrical or rectangular in shape;

Installation safety rules

Any homemade heating device is designed to heat the room, making it more comfortable, but at the same time, such devices are far from safe and are fraught with ignition and fire.


When installing the structure, it is very important to follow safety rules:

  1. Bake must be installed on a fire-resistant surface, otherwise the floor may burn out. To do this, it is good to lay brick or tiles on the floor.
  2. Stove walls should not overheat too much; for this purpose, special drywall and other non-flammable material are used in production.
  3. Highly flammable materials Do not place it near the firebox, it may catch fire.
  4. Take care about ventilation in the room where the potbelly stove will be located. Carbon monoxide should come out in a timely manner and not accumulate inside the room.
  5. Use in production only high-quality, fire-resistant material.
  1. If there are panel or wood walls in the house install the stove at a distance of 1 meter from them.
  2. Be sure to mount chimney preferably from one section.
  3. When passing a pipe through a wall install a brick thermal barrier. Do not use concrete for these purposes; it crumbles quickly.
  4. For garage would be better suited The potbelly stove is being worked on, so don’t rush to throw away the car rims.
  5. Don't put on the stove near flammable materials.
  6. Pipe section It is above the roof that is made of non-flammable material, so the stove will cool much more slowly.
  7. Think it through ventilation system, there should be no burning in the room.
  8. Lay out the floor and walls near the structure with a brick, or facing material, the stove is a fire hazard. The same applies to the chimney; the distance to the walls and ceiling must be at least 1.2 meters.
  9. Set for security purposes metal fencing around the device.
  10. grate It’s better to make them from cast iron grates in a set, so they will be easier to pull out of the firebox.
  11. Install all chimney parts only at the top of the structure, they must withstand high temperatures of over 300 degrees.
  12. Treat seams after welding with durable and high-quality sealant.
  13. Do not clean the pipe with a brush, metal objects, the pipe walls can quickly become leaky.
  14. Installing a chimney, make an anti-rain canopy, rain moisture will not get inside the pipe.

Most of us have probably heard about such a stove as a potbelly stove. In terms of its design, it is a metal structure equipped with a chimney. Such stoves were very popular in the first half of the 20th century. But after some time, when gas stoves began to be installed in houses and central system heating, they began to be forgotten.

Subsequently, they were remembered during the Second World War: during these years, when there was no central heating, potbelly stoves helped keep the rooms warm. These homemade stoves are often used to heat dugouts, dugouts and heated cars. In the 50s of the 20th century, owners of summer cottages remembered these stoves and installed them in their garden houses. These days they are still popular primarily as a means of heating. utility rooms area 10-15 sq. m. They do an excellent job when used in garages, small country houses, greenhouses, etc.

High popularity of potbelly stoves ensured their dignity, which they have in sufficient quantities:

However, potbelly stoves cannot be considered an ideal heating device. Therefore, while getting acquainted with their advantages, it is also necessary to pay attention to the disadvantages. Although heating such a furnace takes a minimum of time, the achieved They don't hold the temperature for long. For this reason, you have to regularly add fuel to them. In this regard, they are noticeably inferior to long-burning stoves, which do not need to be given attention throughout the day. The amount of thermal energy generated by a potbelly stove is not enough to provide comfortable temperature in a large room. It has a rather low efficiency of 5-10%. According to this indicator, it is inferior to most modern heating installations.

How to increase furnace efficiency?

This problem is relevant for many industrial production masters and ordinary craftsmen. To get an idea of ​​this process, you should first find out how a potbelly stove works and become familiar with some important points.

Chimney diameter

When using potbelly stoves, the main thing is to ensure that a smaller amount of flue gas comes out through this chimney compared to the volume produced by the firebox. If this problem is successfully solved, the gases will remain in the pipe and move around the furnace space a certain number of times. This will cause air circulation, which is prerequisite, ensuring fuel combustion. As a result, when leaving through the chimney pipe, these gases will already have a lower temperature.

This problem can be solved by determining the optimal chimney diameter. This can be considered a size that three times the volume of the firebox oven in cubic meters. However, if gas circulates in a metal box, it will quickly lose its temperature.

To avoid rapid cooling of gases and to ensure their complete combustion, it is necessary to change the fuel combustion process so that it takes place in the pyrolysis mode. You can create it using high temperature. Moreover, even if you try to use dry furniture as fuel, you will not be able to achieve the desired effect.

You can try adding coal regularly, but using such raw materials cannot create optimal conditions for the pyrolysis process. This is only possible if the oven operates in smoldering mode and naturally switch from one operating mode to another. Now we come to the next important point.

Steel three-sided protective screen

It should be placed in such a place that it is removed from the body of the stove at a distance of 50-60 mm. Thanks to it, more than half will be reflected towards the furnace infrared radiation, which will ensure the temperature the firebox needs. It is very important to choose the correct distance between the furnace and the shielding element, since this can significantly affect the economic component of the design. The use of wood and coal at the very beginning of the combustion process ensures thermal energy production a lot.

Bearing in mind that the supply of firewood and coal is constantly in short supply, it is important to ensure that the very first portions of heat end up in the room and do not go down the chimney.

Among the currently known methods of heat transfer, convection has no equal in terms of efficiency. In practice, it is implemented by heating the air near the stove so that it spreads throughout the entire room. This problem can be solved using the screen.

Although the heating temperature of the lower layer of the potbelly stove is not so high, heat still radiates downwards from it. This creates a risk of fire in the room. For this reason, as a base on which the potbelly stove will be placed, it is necessary to use a metal sheet that provides removal 30-40 cm from the stove. Moreover, under it it is necessary to place an additional sheet, which can be made of asbestos or basalt.

It is worth noting that a potbelly stove is not able to 100% maintain the pyrolysis mode. This is due to the fact that after entering the chimney pipe, the gases leave it without having time to give up their heat. This can be achieved if you correctly approach the installation of the chimney pipe, choosing the most optimal design for it.

This problem is solved as follows: the chimney design must have a vertical part reaching a height of at least 1 meter. It should also provide a layer of thermal insulation, which can be used as basalt wool.

A pipe should come from it, located at a slight angle and having a similar diameter. She has special name - hog. With its help, conditions will be created under which it is possible to ensure the combustion of gases, as a result of which the heat supplied to the room due to them will increase by 30%. The length of such bars can reach 2.5-4.5 meters. It should be placed no closer than 1 meter from the walls and ceiling. There should be a space of 2 meters wide between the bottom of the stove and the hog. It would be useful to provide protection for it based on a metal mesh.

Ever since its appearance and popularization, the potbelly stove changes were made to their design. As a result, today they are ovens long burning, characterized by ease of operation and high level efficiency. Modern version These furnaces no longer have grates, and an air choke has appeared at the ash-burner, the main purpose of which is to regulate the thermal power and combustion mode. To ensure long combustion, air enters the fuel from above.

Among the various options for potbelly stoves, cast iron stoves demonstrate the highest energy intensity. Such devices could even work without a screen. It was this feature that was taken into account when it was decided to use them for heating army barracks. In our country, they have been manufacturing army potbelly stoves for a long time, and there are no complaints about the quality of their work. These installations differ in many respects, including dimensions.

Assembling a potbelly stove with your own hands

In terms of design, such a stove includes a firebox with a grate, a blower ash collector and a chimney. Any building is suitable as a place to install a potbelly stove. The main thing is that there is a possibility for the chimney to be brought outside. If you have an empty gas cylinder lying around, you shouldn’t get rid of it. You can find a use for it if you make a potbelly stove body out of it.

Materials for assembling the stove

To make a potbelly stove with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

  • steel grate;
  • steel corners;
  • chimney pipe;
  • steel sheet;
  • door.

Necessary take a gas cylinder and mark the place at the top where the iron rim with the tap is located. It needs to be removed, for which you can use a hammer.

Then you need to cut a hole for the door, calculating its dimensions in advance.

The corners will be used for a frame for the door, for the manufacture of which you will need welding.

After the frame is welded to the cylinder, you need to install the door on the bolts, for which you will first have to make the necessary holes for them.

In a place corresponding to the bottom of the oven, you should cut holes for the grille, after which it must be welded. On the other three sides it is necessary to install steel sheets using welding. They will serve as walls for the future furnace. The result should be a box with a door that does not have a top part. The box must be welded to the bottom, and this must be done so that the open side is adjacent to the door. Next, you need to install a damper, with which you can change the mode of air supply to the furnace firebox.

To make the stove-stove stable, it is necessary to weld the legs to the gas cylinder. A hole is made on the back side through which gas will escape from the chimney. After this, they begin to assemble the chimney, providing it with a turn that will allow the heat to leave the room with a slight delay.

The above diagram is applicable for making a potbelly stove with your own hands based on a 40 liter milk can.

How to make a potbelly stove from steel sheets with your own hands

The design of the firebox of such a stove should include partitions that will save you from the need to spend a large amount of fuel to maintain the operation of the stove.

Materials for assembling the furnace

To make a similar version of a potbelly stove, you The following materials will be required:

The first thing you need to do to build a potbelly stove with your own hands is a drawing that will simplify the task of making it for you. Next, you need to take the sheets and cut out elements for the stove body and two partitions from them. The latter must be installed in the upper part of the firebox, in the future they will provide a complex, winding path for flue gases, which will provide more high efficiency generation of thermal energy by the furnace.

At the top you need to do chimney hole with diameter 110 mm. You also need to place a hole under hob, the diameter of which should be 150 mm.

Next, we take the sidewalls and attach them by welding to the bottom of the body. It is necessary to weld steel strips 30 mm thick to the walls. They will serve as the basis for the lattice. It can also be created from a steel sheet, in which you first need to make a hole with a diameter of 20 mm. To create a grate, you can use reinforcing bars or purchase finished goods in the shop.

Conclusion

Although the potbelly stove seems to be a rather outdated version of the heating device, it is still remains in demand. In stores you can find many options for modern stoves, but it will be better if you make a drawing for it yourself. This will allow you to create with your own hands a stove that will completely suit you in all respects. In addition, there will be no problems with this, given that such a stove has a simple design, and its manufacture requires available materials, which can be found in almost every household.

The potbelly stove always came to the rescue in emergency situations and was a reliable assistant for summer residents, motorists with a garage, as well as owners of small private houses.

Today she often acquires new look, developed by interior designers, therefore fits well into the halls of elite mansions. Is it possible to make this useful, and sometimes simply necessary heating device do it yourself if you don’t have enough experience in welding and cutting metal?

Of course, yes, and yes again, in order to cook a potbelly stove you only need to understand general principles welding metals, even if you end up with a crooked seam, you can always clean it up with a grinder; look at the photo below to see what kind of stove was welded by a beginner who had only used a welding machine twice in his life:

Tools required for work

For the manufacture of any metal structures you need a certain set of tools, which include:

  1. Welding machine, at least 200A and electrodes, protective mask and welding suit;
  2. Grinder (grinder), cutting and grinding wheels on metal. Some shaped parts can only be cut with a gas cutter.
  3. Skimmer(hammer);
  4. Metal brush;
  5. An ordinary hammer, chisel, pliers;
  6. Tape measure, folding meter and chalk for marks;
  7. Drill and drill bits for metal.

Types of homemade potbelly stoves

For different rooms you can choose your own type of potbelly stove that best suits your needs technical specifications and in appearance. They are made from metal tanks, medium-diameter pipes, barrels, gas cylinders and sheets with a thickness of at least 3-5 mm.

For heating in a garage, any of the potbelly stove options is suitable, but for use in a residential area, it is better to avoid some models.

Therefore, you need to consider the most popular options for potbelly stoves in order to find out which one to choose and make yourself.

Potbelly stove for mining - simple and cheap

This is exactly the option that is not suitable for use in premises where people live. The explanation is simple: when burning, waste oil emits a specific smell, even if there is a good exhaust system.

For manufacturing you will need sheet metal thickness 4-5 mm, from which everything will be cut necessary details. A pipe is also needed for the manufacture of some elements of the potbelly stove and chimney.

In the diagram presented, everything is clearly visible dimensions of parts that needs to be prepared.

  • All elements are accurately marked on a metal sheet and cut out using a grinder. All edges of the parts are carefully cleaned.
  • Round holes are drilled in a prepared pipe of the required height. It will connect the upper and lower containers of the potbelly stove.
  • A hole is cut in the upper plane of the upper tank, in the place indicated according to the diagram. required diameter. It is offset from the center to the left and will be intended for the chimney pipe. On the bottom wall, the hole is offset to the right side of the circle, and the connecting pipe will enter it.
  • Two circles are welded to a section of pipe that will determine the thickness of the upper tank.
  • The lower part of the stove is made in the same way. Only the hole for the pipe to enter is cut in the center of the circle. In addition, another one is cut out, which will serve as a neck for filling the stove. A sliding cover is attached to it.
  • Three or four legs are welded onto the lower solid plane.
  • For rigidity, the upper tank is connected to the lower one with metal brackets.
  • To ensure that the stove is beautiful and does not rust, all welds are thoroughly cleaned, and then all surfaces are painted with protective heat-resistant paint.
  • The last step in the work is connecting the stove to the chimney.

Such a furnace works as follows: waste is poured into the lower tank, then using a splinter or rolled paper, it is ignited through the hole. The sliding cover on the hole is closed after the waste inside the tank ignites. Oxygen entering through the holes in the pipe that connects the two tanks promotes intense combustion. Hot air passing through the top of the stove heats it to a high temperature, so you can easily heat a kettle on its surface. Since there is always spent fuel in the garage, there will never be any problems refueling the potbelly stove.

Potbelly stove from an old barrel or pipe

This stove can be made from an ordinary metal barrel or pipe of a certain diameter. It is quite suitable for installation in a residential area of ​​a summer house, and if it is beautifully and neatly designed, it can also be suitable for a residential building.

  1. At the desired level of the future furnace, mark and cut out two rectangular holes, which will be the entrances to the firebox and ash pit.
  2. The cut out parts will be useful for making doors. They are framed with metal strips, bringing them to the required size, and a special handle with a latch is installed.
  3. About ten centimeters below the firebox door, corner brackets are welded inside the barrel or pipe on which the grate will be laid.
  4. You can weld the grate yourself from reinforcement.
  5. If the stove is made of a pipe, its bottom and upper part are welded.
  6. The legs are welded to the lower bottom part.
  7. A hole for the chimney is cut in the top panel and a pipe is welded into it.
  8. Then the doors are installed on the fixed hinges. According to their location, the hook for the lock is marked and secured.
  9. In order for the oven to have aesthetic appearance, all welding seams must be thoroughly cleaned. If the oven is then coated with heat-resistant paint, it will be impossible to distinguish it from the factory product.
  10. Then, when the stove is completely ready, it is connected to a chimney leading outside.

Generally , good option potbelly stove, if there is enough space for it in the room, since this model will take up enough large area. It should be noted that the top panel of the potbelly stove is large enough, and you can easily install a kettle or, for example, a frying pan on it.

Potbelly stove made from a bad gas cylinder

The gas cylinder has an almost ready-made shape for a good potbelly stove.

  • The top of the cylinder with the tap is cut off, and a plug is subsequently welded to this place.
  • In its bottom part it is cut out square hole, which will serve as the entrance to the firebox. The cut out part should also not be thrown away. It is scalded, and thus the door panel will be ready.
  • A handle lock is attached to it, and the door is installed on welded hinges.
  • Holes are made on the wall of the cylinder, which will be the bottom of the future stove - they themselves will act as a grate.
  • Under them, a box made of thinner metal is fixed by welding. This will be an ash pit for disposing of waste from burnt firewood, which will also act as an ash pit. The door must also be secured to the ash pan.
  • After this, the legs are welded - they can be made from metal corner or pipes.
  • A round hole is cut out in the upper rear part of the stove and a chimney pipe is welded into it.
  • If necessary, you can also install a hob on top. To do this, on the top of the cylinder it is enough to weld a frame from steel reinforcement. On such hob It is quite possible to place two items - for example, for cooking and heating water.

A potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder is perfect for both garage space, and for a room in a country house.

One of the home craftsmen shares his experience on how to make a potbelly stove with your own hands from a cylinder with a vertical arrangement:

Video lesson on building a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder

Potbelly stove made of rectangular sheet steel

This is probably the most optimal, an aesthetic, compact option from all the potbelly stoves proposed above. It is best suited for heating residential premises. The design of this stove is clearly visible in the two diagrams presented.

Compact, easy-to-use “Gnome”

The first of them shows the “Gnome” stove. It has a simple structure: two chambers - a firebox and an ash pan, a chimney pipe and legs.

The second diagram shows a more complex internal design of the potbelly stove, which will help it retain heat for a longer period. This potbelly stove is worth considering.

  • To make this stove you will need sheet metal with a thickness of at least 3 mm, a corner 5 × 5 cm, a chimney pipe, and a burner cover.
  • Markings are made on metal sheets and all the necessary details are drawn: the walls of the stove, the bottom of the potbelly stove, the hob; grate, two internal metal plates that direct the flow of burnt gases, their afterburning, and delay the rapid release of heat.
  • Two rectangular holes for the firebox and ash pan are cut in the front wall of the stove. Here, doors with locks and latches for them will subsequently be attached to hinges.
  • A neat opening for the burner is cut out in the upper plane (depending on the size of the purchased part), as well as a hole for the chimney.
  • The legs are attached to the lower, bottom part.
  • The place where the grate will be placed is marked on the side panels. Corners are welded to these places, they will become brackets for the grate.
  • In order to make a grate, you can drill a large number of round holes in a sheet of metal, or weld a grid from reinforcement.
  • In the upper part of the potbelly stove, at a distance of 16 cm from the hob, a plate is welded, its length being 8 cm less than the depth of the potbelly stove, i.e. it should not reach the back wall of the oven body by 8 cm.
  • The same plate is welded to back wall, is 8 cm higher than the first plate, it should not reach the front panel by 8 cm. Thus, after installing all the parts, a labyrinthine the corridor along which the hot air, heating these plates and preventing the heat from immediately escaping into the pipe.
  • Next, you need to assemble all the parts of the potbelly stove together by welding. All joints of parts must be reinforced with a metal corner.
  • Lastly, the chimney pipe is welded and all welding seams are cleaned.
  • To give the potbelly stove a spectacular look, it is painted with heat-resistant paint.

Rules for safe installation of a potbelly stove

In order for a homemade one to bring only comfort and warmth to the house, and not create problems, it is necessary to follow safety rules.

  • The stove is installed on a fire-resistant surface. It can be arranged from tiles or in the form brickwork. The walls around the stove also need to be protected from overheating. This can be done using fire-resistant special drywall or other non-combustible material.
  • Flammable materials must not be placed near the firebox.
  • The room where the stove will be located must have a good ventilation system. This is important to ensure that there is no risk of carbon monoxide accumulation in the room.
  • To make any potbelly stove, you must use only high-quality material.

The potbelly stove will serve effectively and for a long time, it will a good helper in household chores and will warm you up on winter evenings. The main thing is to think through the model well, make it carefully, and comply with all the requirements for safe handling during operation.