Two questions most often asked by buyers: why don’t they bloom? large leaf hydrangeas, and if they bloom, then why not blue flowers?
To get guaranteed flowering, you need to try - after the first frost, tear off the leaves and leave the top two. Remove old branches - this stimulates the formation of powerful basal shoots, cut out weak shoots, they are unproductive and often die in winter. Do not cut off the apical buds under any circumstances - the largest inflorescences develop from them, and some varieties bloom exclusively on the tops. Gently bend the remaining shoots to the ground, the lower the better, do not isolate them from the ground in any way (this is a common mistake), top part the bush should lie on the ground. Cover the tops with lutrasil (spunbond, agril) and cover the entire plant with peat or ordinary soil (I take it from the beds and take it back in the spring). There should be at least 10-15 cm of soil above the plant, and if you are not sure about the frost resistance of the variety, you can cover the top with lutrasil-60. In fact, the process is not complicated, and the result exceeds expectations.
In the spring, you have to dig up hydrangea late, sometimes in early June, because... flower buds are afraid of return frosts. But, if you live in a country house, then you can take a risk - dig it up, and if there is a threat of freezing, wrap the bush with lutrasil in 2 layers. When removing the shelter, carefully fold back the lutrasil along with the soil so as not to damage the buds, which by this time are usually already moving forward. Raise the shoots and shade them with lutrasil for the first time, remove it on a rainy or cloudy day.
Large-leaved hydrangeas bloom very early; their inflorescences become colored already in early July, when paniculata are just gathering their strength.
Why did the blue hydrangea suddenly turn pink? The fact is that hydrangeas need aluminum salts to form blue inflorescences, for example, “Rainbow” hydrangea coloring agent. It must be applied in liquid form, but if it is worth rainy weather, then you can bury a teaspoon in several places around the bush, it will slowly dissolve and be absorbed by the plant. But aluminum only works on very acidic soil, so during the season it is necessary to acidify the soil several times - 50 g citric acid dissolve in 10 liters of water and pour the soil under the plant in several approaches so that the solution reaches even the deep roots. To prevent water from spreading, make a cushion of soil around the plants. These activities should be carried out at the end of August-September, that is, at the time of flower bud formation for the next year, but if you did it at another time, it will not be worse, and then your hydrangea will again have blue inflorescences.
Hydrangea is a shrub of magnificent beauty. In gardening, it is valued for its variety of inflorescence shapes, varied color palette, and very simple care. Often, it turns out that a person buys secondhand blooming hydrangea, replants it, but the inflorescences gradually begin to fade, and over time it dries out completely. So, why doesn't hydrangea bloom? In this article we will try to understand this issue.
Hydrangea belongs to the Hydrangeaceae family, which contains about 70-80 plant species. Most species are shrubs 1-3 m high, some species are small trees, the rest are lianas. Most plants are deciduous. Hydrangeas bloom from spring to late autumn. The flowers are collected at the end of the stem into beautiful large inflorescences.
The shape of the inflorescences can be:
Inflorescence color:
There are varieties that simultaneously combine several colors in color. The acidity of the soil directly affects the color of the inflorescences.
Hydrangea fruit – 2-5 – separate capsule with numerous small seeds.
This shrub is native to North America, East and South Asia.
Quite a large number of types of hydrangeas are known - these are shrubs, trees and vines. More and more often they can be found in garden plots in Russia. The most common are:
In addition to the above species, there are others, but they are rarely seen in our gardens.
For indoor growing One type of hydrangea is used - this is Hydrangea macrophylla. This species was brought over 200 years ago from China. This plant blooms from spring to late autumn.
Many who grow this plant often wonder why hydrangea does not bloom?
There are actually a lot of reasons:
Hydrangea flowering can be easily restored. You just need to follow all the rules of care, including remembering to periodically apply fertilizer.
Hydrangea – light-loving plant. But bright sun rays and strong winds can harm it. Grows well in shady places. Hydrangea loves fertile, acidic, loose soil.
Landing rules:
Even a beginner in gardening can quickly learn how to care for this plant. You just need to water it in a timely manner, loosen the soil and prepare the plant for wintering. You also need to know the amount of fertilizer application. If their number is too large, then too voluminous inflorescences will form, and under their weight the branches may simply break.
Hydrangea propagation is carried out in the following ways:
The most effective and easiest way is to propagate hydrangeas from cuttings.
The main diseases that affect this luxurious plant:
But in addition to diseases, hydrangea can be plagued by various pests and insects:
To prevent and control pests and insects, the soil should be treated with various chemicals: insecticides, antifungal drugs, pesticides, folk remedies.
Hydrangea is at the peak of popularity today. It is used to create different floral ensembles and garden styles.
With the help of hydrangea, unique compositions are created in the garden. It can be used in pairs with lilac, spirea and mock orange. You can also combine this plant with other garden flowers that have a similar shape. This creates an amazing effect during the flowering period.
If hydrangea is planted near a pond, then it can be combined with plants that love moist soil, for example, hosta, astilbe, and bergenia.
Hydrangea can be more than just a garden decoration. Since ancient times, the Cherokee Indians have used hydrangea root for kidney problems.
It has the following medicinal properties:
Hydrangea is used to treat:
Sore throats. Flowers and leaves are used. 1/10 tbsp. Pour boiling water over the mixture and bring to a boil. Leave for 1 hour, then strain. Take 100 ml 3 times a day warm 30 minutes before meals.
Diarrhea. Fresh crushed leaves are used. 2 tsp leaves per 1 cup of boiling water. Leave for about an hour, then strain. Take 2 tbsp. 3 times a day before meals.
Cystitis. Fresh leaves or branches are used. Preparation: pour crushed leaves or branches with alcohol in a 1:1 ratio. Let it brew. Take ½ tsp. 2 times a day.
Hydrangea is one of the most beautiful garden plants, whose flowers can be of many shades. There are different varieties of hydrangeas, but they all have rather large inflorescences, consisting of many small fruiting and several large sterile flowers. Hydrangea begins to bloom at the age of five, but sometimes mature plant does not bloom. There may be several reasons why hydrangea does not bloom in the garden.
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The main thing when buying hydrangea is to choose the right variety, which will be able to take root in the climate of the region and survive the winter cold. If the variety is chosen correctly, the lack of flowers may be caused by one of the following factors:
Before purchasing, you need to ask the seller under what conditions the hydrangea was grown - in a greenhouse or in open ground. A greenhouse flower will need a long time to acclimatize, so you shouldn’t wait for flowers right away.
In order to speed up the process of the flower getting used to new soil When replanting, it is recommended to leave a lump of soil on the roots in which the hydrangea originally grew.
In the first two months, fertilizers are applied on average once every two weeks. It is better to choose a fertilizer specialized for hydrangeas, but fertilizer for azaleas and heather is suitable. A plant that has been drip-watered with the addition of fertilizers will not be able to feed on its own in the open ground - such a flower is weaned off an excess of complementary foods gradually, over the course of a year or two.
Hydrangea should be planted in early spring, after the snow has melted, but before buds appear on garden trees.
It is best to make holes for the bush about half a meter in diameter and about the same depth. When planting, the roots are trimmed a little; this is not necessary for young plants.
In the center of the planting hole, you need to make a small earthen mound and distribute it evenly. root system along the slopes. The soil is compacted tightly and then watered abundantly.
Mulching the soil is done in the spring before flowering and in the fall, before hiding the plant for the winter. The layer of mulched soil should be about 8 cm thick. For broadleaf and paniculate hydrangeas, it is better to choose loamy soil with the addition of peat.
In hydrangea, flowers are located on the shoots of the previous year, which is why, if pruned annually, hydrangea does not bloom. Although hydrangea grows quickly, inflorescences form only on healthy and strong shoots. In spring, you can prune dried and frozen branches, but you should not do this in early spring.
The best time for hygienic pruning is mid-April and early May.
Only dried and non-viable shoots need to be removed. You can also thin out the bush by removing weakened zero shoots. When pruning more than two or three mature buds from one branch, flowering may not occur.
Before the onset of cold weather, it is better to cut off all the inflorescences, but all viable buds should be left.
You cannot overfeed hydrangea flowers with nitrogen fertilizers, otherwise it will freeze in winter and die. For hydrangea, fertilizers should be applied in the following sequence:
Young hydrangea may also need aluminum salts. Ammonium sulfate, fertilizers with super-phosphate, as well as specially developed fertilizers with all the microelements necessary for the flower are well suited for hydrangeas.
Starting from the end of September, you will need to wrap the hydrangea with greenhouse film or lutrasil in two layers.
You can hide the plant for the winter starting in mid-October. Before covering the plant, you need to cut off all the inflorescences, leaving the buds. Plants under five years old are immediately covered with earth or peat, but old thick bushes can be broken in this way.
In order for the hydrangea not to be damaged, it is necessary to build a bedding of stones, branches, leaves and coniferous branches, and carefully lay the plant on it so that the stem and shoots are not damaged, secure it with ropes, and make an earthen mound on top. In the spring, it is necessary to remove the embankment, but until the end of May, in case of night frosts, it is necessary to cover the hydrangea with lutrasil or film. This is especially important for young plants - it will help preserve more shoots and viable buds.
Hydrangeas are moisture-loving, but different varieties have different lighting requirements: some species need to be planted in shaded areas, while others, on the contrary, in the sun. One of the most capricious species are broad-leaved varieties - they require large quantity moisture, and grow mainly in places with good lighting. It is necessary to maintain a balance between lighting and hydration of plants.
For irrigation, you need water with a slightly acidic environment; tap water is not suitable, as it will shift the balance to the alkaline side, which will harm the plants. You can water it with rainwater, or let it sit with tap water for several days. If watering is urgently needed, you can boil the required volume of liquid in an open container - this will help evaporate impurities harmful to plants and eliminate excess water hardness.
To maintain soil acidity, you can add to the liquid during watering. a small amount of citric acid, kefir or weak vinegar solution.
In the hot season, the plant needs to be watered quite often and abundantly, about 20 liters per adult plant, but excess moisture must not be created - otherwise the root system will rot. In rainy summers, the frequency of watering decreases several times.
You can judge the acidity of the soil by the change in color of hydrangeas: acidic soil the flowers have a bluish tint, white or orange on neutral soils, and when the soils are leached they turn pink or lilac.
It is best to propagate hydrangea by cuttings in early July and until mid-July; it is best to take cuttings from young plants. You need to choose shoots without visible diseases, not withered, with large buds. Cuttings need to be cut in the morning to protect them from drying out; it is better to do this from the sides of the plant.
The tops with buds must be trimmed, cut off lower leaves and soak for several days in a solution that stimulates growth. You can make the solution yourself by adding a small amount of honey to the water.
After callus has formed, the shoots are planted in a richly moistened mixture of sand and peat, made in a ratio of one part sand to two parts peat. It is advisable to water the cuttings daily and also spray the leaves. IN suitable conditions The shoots will take root within a month.
It is impossible to propagate hydrangea by seeds in the open ground - it is necessary to grow the plant in a pot for the first two years, and then replant it in garden soil with all precautions. Experienced gardeners can try to plant offspring, propagate by layering, or divide the bush into several parts.
In order for the plant to show itself in all its glory, you need to choose a frost-resistant variety that will not die after wintering:
Before purchasing, you should pay attention to the presence of buds: if there are any, the plant has been artificially fed, and it will be more difficult for it to take root. If you properly care for the plant and provide it with the necessary amount of moisture and fertilizer, it will delight you with lush inflorescences and a variety of colors.
Very often we have questions about why this or that plant does not meet our expectations; our task is to analyze this topic in as much detail as possible.
Why doesn't hydrangea bloom? Do flower growers know these secrets of care?
But in fact, there is not much you need to know in order for this wonderful flower to decorate your yard or garden. The only question is whether you are ready to spend a little time and effort to learn these tricks or decide to leave it to others.
First of all, you will need to decide on the variety of this wonderful flower, since much in the life of the plant depends on your climate. In addition, you need to remember that proper pruning promotes the development of the flower and vice versa. And lastly, hydrangea is a very delicate flower and often gets sick, so be prepared to strictly adhere to a number of rules. Read on for more details about all this and more.
There can be many reasons why hydrangea does not bloom. The garden beauty is capricious. To grow this magnificent flower in your garden and enjoy its blooms, you need to make some effort.
Hydrangea feels uncomfortable in open places, being under the scorching rays of the sun all day. The tender leaves of many varieties droop lifelessly and burn in the heat.
In a sunny place, the plant will be saved by low planting. Tree trunk circle the bush should be 10 cm below ground level. It must be mulched with coarse-fiber peat or sawdust to the surface of the ground. In such conditions, the plant can develop and bloom normally.
In hot and sunny regions it is better to grow paniculata hydrangea. With regular moistening, it will withstand direct sunlight all day long without harming flowering.
In deep shade, under the crowns of large trees, hydrangea is unlikely to delight with its lush color. The perennial does not develop well in heavy shade, regardless of which variety is planted. If flowers appear, they will be sparse and underdeveloped.
All varieties of plants prefer places where the sun's rays fall only before lunch. In such conditions, hydrangea blooms especially brightly, magnificently and for a long time.
If the place for the shrub is chosen poorly and the situation cannot be corrected in any way, you need to replant it. This should be done only as a last resort, since the plant does not tolerate transplantation well. Most the right time for transplantation - autumn. At this time, the perennial is dormant.
Hygrophilia is the main feature of hydrangea. The shrub has the botanical name Hydrangea. Translated from Greek, “hydrangea” means “vessel of water.” If there is a lack of moisture, the plant stops blooming. Its roots should always be kept moist. Do not allow the earthen ball to dry out near the roots. If the weather is dry, without watering the hydrangea may die.
In cool weather, it is enough to water the flower once a week. On hot and dry days, watering should be done every 3 days. The young plant also needs additional moisture until it is 1 year old.
If the soil is clayey, water less frequently. Water will stagnate in heavy soil. If there is excess moisture, hydrangea may reduce or stop flowering. An abundance of water leads to rotting of the roots and death of the plant. Oakleaf hydrangea tolerates moisture accumulation near the roots more difficult than others. It only needs well-drained soil. To prevent water from accumulating in clay soil, you need to add pine bark to it.
In a garden surrounded by large and powerful hydrangea trees, there will not be enough moisture. The roots of the trees will take water from the flower. Even if tree roots are removed when planting a perennial, they will grow within a year.
Very often after disembarking a healthy flowering plant V open ground, it loses its decorative qualities and stops flowering. A sharp deterioration in the condition of the flower is due to the lack of usual feedings.
Hydrangea sellers often abuse fertilizers and overfeed the plants, achieving lush flowering and rapid growth. Getting into natural conditions, the flowering bush begins to hurt.
It is not able to independently absorb the necessary substances from the soil. Such a plant may die if emergency measures are not taken.
In the first year, you need to regularly fertilize hydrangeas, gradually reducing the dosage. It is important to create ideal conditions for the plant in the first months after transplantation, avoiding drying out and stagnation of water in the root zone. When the hydrangea gets stronger, it will begin to develop and bloom.
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Hydrangea does not respond well to excess fertilizer in the soil. It is especially harmful to apply to the soil in summer and early autumn. nitrogen fertilizers.
They are used to enhance the growth of green mass and do not promote flowering in any way. And the rapid growth of shoots in the fall means that they do not have time to ripen before the cold weather and freeze.
Proper feeding of the plant is carried out several times a season.
With the help of fertilizers you can change the color of the spherical flowers of the bush. A solution of water and alum (ammonia or potassium) will give blue shades, and lime will increase the pink tones.
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To protect hydrangea from severe frosts, in the fall they begin to prepare it for winter. In areas with a warm climate, it will be enough to cut off the inflorescences and wrap the bush with agrofibre, but where the winter temperature drops below 25 degrees, it is necessary to make a more reliable shelter.
Old inflorescences are cut off, the branches are bent to the ground and covered with peat, earth or sawdust. To do this, the bush is fenced with boards to create a box - the branches are placed in it. To avoid bending them too much, dry grass or leaves are first placed on the ground and branches are placed on this cushion. The box is also boarded up on top, and after heavy snowfall it is additionally insulated with snow.
In the spring, with the onset of warmth, the entire structure is removed, and the plant is rejuvenated by pruning. In the event of spring frosts, which are so frequent in Russia, the bush must be covered with agrofibre - if the flower buds that have just begun to develop freeze, the plant will not bloom this year.
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If at autumn pruning If the buds of future flowers are removed, the plant will not bloom in due time.
Hydrangeas should be pruned only when necessary. Young plants should not be touched until they begin to bloom. The first flowers appear on the perennial after 2-3 years. Paniculate hydrangeas can bloom only in the 6th year.
In the fall, most varieties of hydrangeas do not need to be pruned. It is better to carry out spring pruning at a later date, when the damage caused to the bush by frost is visible. Remove frozen buds, shoots and broken branches.
To enhance flowering, last year's shoots must be shortened, leaving 1-3 strong pairs of buds. One pair is left on a thin shoot, and several inflorescences will fully develop on a thick one.
Large-leaved hydrangea blooms from the upper buds of last year's shoots. Therefore, it is important to preserve the tops of young shoots that did not bloom last year. The lower buds on the shoots rarely bloom. Old shoots that are more than 4-6 years old do not produce flowers, so they need to be removed.
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It’s worth saying right away that the lion’s share of hydrangea diseases is transmitted through seedlings. Therefore, you should buy hydrangea seedlings only from reliable nurseries, and when propagating hydrangeas from cuttings, be sure that the parent plant is healthy. Most often, hydrangea diseases occur when high humidity air, especially with very dense plantings.
Another group of hydrangea diseases occurs due to a lack of certain substances, primarily chlorosis, which manifests itself as yellowing of hydrangea leaves. This is where we begin our review.
Hydrangea chlorosis occurs due to metabolic disorders in the plant. It experiences iron deficiency, as a result of which the hydrangea leaves turn yellow, lighten, and the veins on the leaves remain dark in color. If you try to ignore this hydrangea disease, over time the plant will weaken and lose its beauty.
Most often, the leaves of hydrangeas growing on soils rich in lime and overfed with humus turn yellow. But what to do if the hydrangea leaves have already turned yellow?
For faster restoration of the bush it is recommended spraying hydrangeas preparations Agricol, Iron Chelate, antichlorosis, ferovit, ferrylene, micro Fe, Brexil. In particularly advanced cases of hydrangea chlorosis, these drugs should be applied at the root.
Another option - treatment of hydrangea for chlorosis with potassium nitrate solution(40 grams of potassium nitrate per bucket of water) and iron sulfate(iron sulfate) in the same concentration. After 2-3 waterings with saltpeter, wait three days and water with a solution of ferrous sulfate.
Don't be alarmed - in fact, hydrangeas are quite rarely affected by fungal diseases. But it is better to prepare for unpleasant surprises. A universal remedy for fungal diseases of hydrangeas is treatment with copper oxychloride (CHOM) - this is the most suitable fungicide for hydrangeas.
White rot of hydrangeas This fungal disease of hydrangeas begins with rotting of the roots. As a result, the plant does not receive nutrients, it turns brown and dies. If the disease affects young hydrangeas, the growing shoots and leaves darken, begin to rot and become covered with “cotton wool” - a soft white coating. Over time, black inclusions appear in the “cotton wool” - sclerotia. The causative agent of the disease persists in the soil, getting there with plant debris. Treatment of white rot of hydrangeas: Phytosporin has shown high effectiveness for fungal diseases of hydrangeas. Other fungicides can also be used.
Gray rot
Another dangerous disease of hydrangeas, in which the plant tissues become watery and soft. In dry weather, dead tissue dries out and falls out, leaving holes in the leaves and stems. In humid weather, the fungus spreads very quickly, all infected areas become covered with “grey wool”. Gray rot is difficult to eradicate, since this disease is characteristic of almost all garden plants.
Treatment of gray rot of hydrangeas: Dead parts of hydrangeas must be removed. The results are obtained by treating hydrangeas with Pure Flower, Skor, Fundazol.
This hydrangea disease manifests itself in the form of oily spots that darken over time on the stems and leaves. Fungal disease actively develops at high humidity and temperatures of 18-20 degrees.
Treatment of false powdery mildew plants: the plant is treated with a solution of soapy water and copper sulfate (15 grams of sulfate and 150 grams of soap per bucket of water). This hydrangea treatment will help in the early stages of the disease. You can treat hydrangea with fungicides.
Powdery mildew of hydrangeas Eta fungal disease Hydrangeas are characterized by the presence of yellow-green spots on the leaves, which turn brown over time and take on distinct shapes. In this case, a purple or grayish coating is visible on the bottom of the leaf. Over time, the affected leaves fall off. This fungus especially affects young shoots; they become deformed and, as a rule, do not survive the winter. Treatment of powdery mildew: hydrangea is sprayed with fungicides - Alirin-B, Fitosporin-M. If the hydrangea disease has severely affected the plant, you can use Pure Flower, Thiovit Jet, Topaz, Skor, Strobi, Cumulus.
Septoria hydrangea This disease of hydrangeas, like septoria, manifests itself in the form of brown spots of rounded irregular shape, with a light center and a dark rim. Septoria hydrangea affects the leaves, but in neglected plants it spreads to young stems and petioles. Over time, the spots merge and the leaves die. The hydrangea disease Septoria reduces the ability of hydrangeas to overwinter. Treatment of hydrangea septoria: treatment with copper-containing preparations - copper sulfate, copper oxychloride, etc.
Other common fungal diseases of hydrangeas include: common cancer, tracheomycosis wilt, bark necrosis, phyllostictosis and ascochyta spotting. In general, the treatment of hydrangeas for fungal diseases is carried out with fungicides. But fungal diseases are not the worst thing that can happen to hydrangea.
Hydrangea ringspot The most common A viral disease of hydrangeas is hydrangea ring spot. Initially, blurry spots of necrosis in the shape of rings appear on the leaves of hydrangeas, the leaves begin to wrinkle and become asymmetrical. If the plant is severely affected by ring spot, it cannot produce buds, or the flowers turn out small and weak.
Treatment of ring spot in hydrangeas. Unfortunately, this viral disease hydrangeas cannot be treated. It is necessary to carefully monitor the quality of seedlings.
Snails love hydrangeas. Most often this is the common amber snail or the grape snail. They especially like moist, shady, thickened plantings. Snails on hydrangeas eat buds, young shoots and leaves.
Snails pose a great danger to hydrangeas overwintering under cover: the mollusks burrow into the soil around the bush, and as soon as the temperature rises in the spring, they emerge from the ground and feed on the first buds and leaves. Near the hydrangea bush you can see clutches of snails.
How to get rid of snails on hydrangeas: In addition to the mechanical destruction of these mollusks and their clutches in the spring and summer, you can use metaldehyde or “Thunderstorm”.
These toxic drugs should not be placed directly on the ground - they clog the soil and stop working when mixed with the soil. The chemicals are poured into cups and placed horizontally around the bush.
If you notice that small yellow spots have appeared on the back side of a hydrangea leaf, which over time merge into a marble pattern, this is a spider mite on a hydrangea. Over time, the affected leaf dries out and falls off. If these hydrangea pests have thoroughly colonized the bush, you can see spider webs with mites (with a small infestation, the spider mite is not noticeable to the naked eye), and necrosis appears.
Treatment of hydrangea against poutine mite: insectoacaracids and acaracids are used - thiophos, preparations Molniya, Akarin, Fitoverm, Vermitek. For mild spider mite infestation of hydrangea, treatment with mineral oil or soap can help.
When settling on hydrangeas, aphids suck the juice from the plant, simultaneously contaminating it with sugary secretions. They, in turn, serve as food for sooty fungi. Aphids on hydrangeas are also dangerous because they can carry viruses. Aphids settle on the lower part of the leaf; if the hydrangea is severely infested, it may turn yellow and the leaves may fall off.
Treatment of hydrangeas from aphids: if the damage is mild, you can simply try to wash off the hydrangea pests with soap and water. Insecticides - Tobacco dust, Iskra, Zubr, Antilin, Fitoverm, Aktara, Akarin, Tanrek, Komandor and other means - are used for large-scale aphids.
This pest lives on the roots of hydrangeas. Microscopic worms - root-knot nematodes - form brown, round swellings on the root, called galls. The galls rot, the roots die, and the hydrangea does not receive nutrients. Most often, this pest of hydrangeas affects young bushes.
There are a lot of insects that can harm hydrangeas: bugs, pennies, leaf-eating pests (weevils, leaf beetles, caterpillars, cutworms, fawns, bronze beetles, earwigs). However, for a healthy, strong plant and caring owner These pests are not particularly scary.
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Hydrangea may not bloom due to the whimsical nature of the variety. Not all types of flower bushes, even with careful care, quickly adapt to a new climate. Sometimes from planting a seedling to the moment of flowering, it takes from five to seven years.
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Hydrangea- a separate genus of flowering plants belonging to the Hydrangeaceae family. The family is represented by small trees and shrubs. The genus includes up to 80 plant species and is widely popular in Asia, Europe and America. Certain species, more adapted to the conditions of detention, are often found in China and Japan. Many varieties have gained popularity among domestic gardeners due to their unsurpassed appearance, durability and unpretentiousness.
Did you know? The plant was named after the beautiful princess Hortense, who was the sister of the prince of the Roman Empire.
Hydrangea largeleaf- tall ornamental shrub, distinctive feature which are uncharacteristically large leaves. In favorable growing conditions and with proper care, it can reach 2.5-3 meters in height. The inflorescences are round in shape and, depending on the species, can have different colors, ranging from soft blue to pink.
In general, caring for this type of flower comes down to caring for the soil, regular watering and periodic fertilization, but creating conditions for soil quality and quantity sunlight a little difficult.
In view of this, there was no need to talk about planting large-leaved plants in our country before. Fortunately, new, more adapted varieties of this ornamental species appear regularly.
Thus, the garden hydrangea variety Blaumais is a modern breakthrough in domestic gardening, because due to the growth characteristics of the shrub, previously only gardeners with great experience. With the development of such varieties, planting has become significantly easier, and the plant’s requirements for care have decreased.
Hydrangea largeleaf, winter-hardy varieties which dominates the domestic market of ornamental plants, easily tolerates complex climatic conditions and changeable weather. Best suited for planting in the middle zone of our country.
Important! Despite the relative winter hardiness of this species, immature and/or young shrubs do not tolerate severe frosts well, so it is strongly recommended to cover the plant for the winter.
Tree hydrangea– one of the most popular types of tall ornamental shrubs. The homeland of this species is North America, where the shrub often grows over 4-5 meters (in Russian gardens it rarely exceeds 2-3 meters). The leaves of the species are large in size, opposite, rich green in color. Inflorescences of spherical shape, reaching 20 cm in diameter, are formed at the top of annual shoots. The original greenish color of the flowers turns into a soft cream color over time.
Selected varieties have a significant number of fruiting inflorescences, but at the same time in Russian gardens you can often find shrubs with absolutely sterile inflorescences. Thus, the variety of adapted varieties of this species makes it possible to make a choice in favor of the shrub that will fit most harmoniously into the garden.
It is noteworthy that annual flower shoots, as a rule, do not have time to fully ripen until autumn, so they freeze over in winter.
However, to restore the bush, a small amount is enough spring pruning and fertilizing with mineral fertilizers. At the same time, annual flowering is guaranteed.
Thanks to the climatic conditions of our region, in Russian gardens it is one of the first to bloom (at the end of June) and continues to bloom until late autumn.
Due to their durability, unpretentiousness and adaptability, tree hydrangea varieties are best suited for the Moscow region. The most common variety within our state is Sterilis, which is characterized by large spherical inflorescences consisting of frequent small flowers reaching 1 cm in diameter.
Tree hydrangea, as a rule, has sterile flowers that provide abundant decorative flowering.
Paniculata hydrangea- a type of ornamental shrub or tree reaching up to 5 meters in height. It got its name due to the special shape of the crown, leaf blade and inflorescences. In the wild, this plant is found in China, Japan, Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands. Moreover, in their natural habitat, trees and bushes of the species often exceed 5-7 meters in height while maintaining proportions to the diameter of the crown.
In Russian gardens, this plant is rightfully one of the most ornamental plants, which, at your own discretion, can be grown in one form or another (bush, single-trunked or multi-trunked tree).
The shoots are brown in color and quickly become woody, which determines their resistance to difficult climatic conditions. Its leaves are oblong and arranged oppositely. Inflorescences are located on most young shoots, which guarantees abundant annual flowering.
The appearance of buds occurs at the end of June - beginning of July, but their blooming is slow, which is why it blooms in full force only in August - September.
The inflorescences of this type of ornamental shrub are pyramidal in shape and consist of a mixture of frequent sterile and fertile greenish flowers, which over time acquire a delicate cream color.
In autumn, with sufficient sunlight, the inflorescences change color to pink, brick or pale purple.
This type of ornamental plant is very unpretentious and resistant even to the conditions of the north-west of our country.
Until recently, only a few were grown in Russian gardens. garden forms and varieties paniculata hydrangea, but thanks to the efforts of breeders, tree and paniculate hydrangeas regularly receive new varieties. Fortunately, almost every new representative of the species, even regardless of climatic conditions, is to one degree or another prepared for cultivation in the gardens of our country.
By now, the most common variety of this plant is Grandiflora, which is characterized by large dense inflorescences (the length of which, as a rule, reaches 30-35 cm), mainly consisting of sterile flowers.
Did you know? Hydrangea paniculata differs from others in its unusually long lifespan and long-lasting preservation of its decorative appearance. A shrub can grow in one place for more than 40 years.
Hydrangea oakleaf– deciduous decorative flowering shrub, reaching a height of up to one meter.
This species is distinguished by unusually large (up to 20 cm in length) 5-7-lobed leaf blades. Depending on the season, their color changes from dark green in summer to purple in autumn. The underside of the sheet is white felt. Outwardly, they are similar to an oak leaf.
Hydrangea oakleaf, whose winter hardiness is one of its advantages, sometimes needs seasonal shelter. As a rule, this applies to young or diseased bushes. Moreover, before wintering, it is best to loosen the soil around it by 15-20 cm. In this way, you can effectively protect the plant’s root system from freezing.
Important! Oakleaf hydrangea is extremely moisture-loving, so it is necessary to provide regular watering in sufficient quantities (based on the size of the plant). Moreover, you should carefully care for the soil, loosening it and promptly clearing it of weeds.
Oakleaf hydrangeas, the varieties of which are optimally suited for growing in Russian gardens, are not very popular, but they fully deserve it thanks to the leaves that are completely unique to this shrub.
Hydrangea petiolate– perennial ornamental plant, which is a flowering vine. It is due to this appearance that this species is also called curly.
In the wild, it is most often found in open spaces Kuril Islands, Sakhalin, China and Japan, where it often reaches 20-25 meters in length.
Under growing conditions in Russian gardens, its size is significantly smaller. The flower is not only simply attached to a support with the help of its aerial roots, but can also spread along the ground, but in in this case the plant will not bloom.
The leaf blade of this species is wide, with a characteristic heart-shaped base. The inflorescences are loose umbrellas, reaching 20-25 cm in diameter. Their color (white-green, lilac, pink and others) depends on the variety.
Petiole view It is highly frost-resistant, but in some cases (in particularly severe frosts) it may freeze slightly. In view of this, in the first frosts it is better to remove young shoots from their support and cover them for wintering under the snow.
We can safely say that this is the species that belongs to the best varieties hydrangeas for creating a hedge. But at the same time, it makes special demands on the conditions of detention, so the species is rare in the vast expanses of our state, but deserves attention.
Important!Petiole hydrangea is extremely picky about the quality and composition of the soil. Thus, any minor deviation from the required maintenance conditions can cause plant disease or even its death.
Hydrangea serrata- a tree-like ornamental shrub reaching a height of up to 1.5 meters. Features a lush crown large diameter and bright green oval-shaped leaves, pointed at the apex. The serrated hydrangea shrub is classified as an annual.
This shrub blooms from late June to September, often surpassing other varieties of hydrangea in beauty. She easily tolerates possible transplants, even despite the quality planting soil, but throughout the entire period of growth and flowering it prefers moderate watering.
For proper and safe wintering of the shrub, it is necessary to trim off the wilted inflorescences and cover them with a thick film. In general, the plant is extremely unpretentious.
It is perfect for planting in garden plots in the middle zone of our state.
Did you know? Hydrangea serrata is fully adapted to the climatic conditions of our region, therefore it is almost never attacked garden pests and diseases.
Hydrangea, whose species and varieties are replete with variety for Russian gardens, invariably attracts domestic gardeners with its amazing beauty and unpretentiousness. This can easily be considered one of the most popular types.
This type of shrub can reach up to 3 meters in height and is distinguished by its oval-lanceolate leaf blades, pointed at the top. External decorative look The plant is provided with many sterile snow-white flowers, united in massive corymbs.
The flowering period occurs in mid-summer and usually lasts about a month. Ripening itself occurs at the beginning of autumn (September).
Hydrangea radiata does not apply to winter-hardy species, and in winter its root system should be carefully protected with dry foliage or mound.
The growth rate of such a plant is surprisingly high, and propagation by cuttings is simple and effective. It is because of this that the plant is very often found in landscape design in the southern regions of the country.
Ash hydrangea– an ornamental shrub (deciduous), capable of reaching up to 2 meters in height. It is distinguished by a large diameter crown, represented by leaves and young shoots drooping from below. The leaves of the plant have a wide elliptical shape and can reach sizes of up to 15 centimeters. Small teeth are evenly spaced along the edges of the leaf plates.
Corymbose inflorescences, as a rule, reach 15-20 centimeters in diameter and bloom in mid-summer (late June - early July).
She without much difficulty tolerates the winter climate of our region, but young garden hydrangeas varieties have reduced winter hardiness, so they may freeze slightly.
A shrub of this species, similar to a tree-like one, does not have any special requirements for the composition of the soil, its moisture and fertility, which is why ash hydrangea can rightfully be considered indispensable for planting as a decorative hedge.
You can plant the following shrubs in your garden: juniper, rose hips, felt cherry, heather, snowberry.
For this type flower, you can choose absolutely any place on the site, regardless of the constancy natural light, watering and soil acidity. At the same time, she retains her decorative properties throughout the growing season.
Based on all of the above, we can conclude that currently numerous types of garden hydrangea have been bred that can easily tolerate the climatic conditions of our region.
At the same time, their unsurpassed appearance tirelessly pleases the eye and creates garden plot amazing beauty, and winter-hardy varieties, which, by the way, are most often found in our region, guarantee the durability and vitality of the plant practically under any conditions of detention.
These plants, combining the beauty of flowering and ease of care, can rightfully be considered the most correct choice for planting in your own personal plot.
agronomu.com
Botanical name hydrangeas – hydrangea– comes from two Greek words: hydor (which means “water”) and angos (which translates as “vessel”). Thus, flowers are vessels with water.
If you look closely, the seed pods of the flower really resemble a jug or flask in shape. And the flower received the poetic name “hydrangea” in honor of Princess Hortense, sister of the prince of the Holy Roman Empire.
This flower belongs to the hydrangea family, which has more than a hundred species. The plant loves moist soil and a cool, but not frosty climate.
Hydrangeas look especially impressive in the autumn, when young buds, flowering seed heads and colorful leaves side by side on the same bush.
One of the most beautiful legends, dedicated to a flower native to Japan. It says that hydrangea flowers appeared on the birthday of Buddha. According to some sources, this happened in 473 BC. The moment the baby was born, magnificent flowers suddenly rained down from the sky, and with them came the nectar of “amacha.”
The Japanese gave the flowers the name "aujisai". Even today, for Japanese Buddhists, aujisai is a sacred flower that is grown in temples.
Very beautiful lush hydrangea inflorescences can be seen in summer cottages and city parks.
But there are also amateurs who grow this plant at home.
And this individual differs from a large garden bush in its dwarf growth, when only a flower cap of a brightly saturated or pale color peeks out from the pot.
It is for the sake of this charm that this culture is planted on windowsills. But it happens that a plant refuses to please others with its inflorescences. What is the reason why Hydrangea does not bloom?
Did you plant the flower correctly?
You brought home a little miracle and are waiting with lust for it to bloom. But for some reason Hortense is in no hurry to do this. First of all, pay attention to the flower pot in which the plant is located.
Transplants should be carried out in the fall, using turf and leaf soil, peat and sand.
Soil acidification
Experienced flower growers know that Hydrangea loves to accumulate aluminum salts. The color of the inflorescences depends on the saturation of this element. The more acidified the soil, the bluer the flowers turn out.
An alkaline environment gives a pink tint, and a neutral one gives a white tint. When we're talking about For acidification, soil additives in the form of sawdust, peat or pine needles are usually used.
For the same purpose, the plant is sprayed with acidified water. lemon juice or watered with alum.
And only an inexperienced gardener introduces nitrogen-containing fertilizers as a nutrient element. Naturally, they stimulate the growth of plants well, but at the same time suppress their ability to bloom - all the energy is spent on forcing.
Temperature and lighting
Despite the fact that Hydrangea is a plant of the southern type, it should not be “bathed” in ultraviolet rays all year round. Let the flower stand on a well-lit windowsill, where only diffused light from the street enters.
In the absence of such conditions, you should not move Hydrangea deeper into the room - such darkening will weaken the plant and cause it to refuse to bloom.
The temperature for budding plays an important role - room temperature is considered optimal (18-22°C). But this is only during a period of active growth.
When the time for seasonal dormancy has come (from late autumn to February), during this time Hydrangea needs to create a cool environment (about 7-10°) somewhere in the basement.
If the plant is left to winter on the windowsill in a warm place, then you should not ask the question “why doesn’t Hydrangea bloom on time?”
Finally 
Flowers should be treated like women, giving them affection and attention. Don't ignore their whims; create the most optimal conditions for development.
And then Hydrangea will certainly reciprocate, giving her ruler a lush ball of inflorescences. And what color you prefer is up to you.
