Jasmine is a multi-stemmed shrub that reaches a height of up to 4 meters. The varieties of Crowned and Small-leaved Jasmine are most often grown in gardens. Let's see what it is proper care behind a bush.
In the garden, jasmine is planted in late spring or early autumn. You can choose almost any place for the plant, as it tolerates shade well. However, with a strong excess of light may not bloom.
The main thing in how to care is the soil. It must be fertile and necessarily loose. A drainage layer with a height of at least 15 centimeters should be laid in the planting hole. This can be any stones or expanded clay, which in case of stagnation of water will divert it from the roots.
The soil for planting the bush should be loose and fertile
The hole for planting should be 50 centimeters in diameter and the same depth. Sand and a mixture of soil and peat are placed on the drainage, after which the plant is placed in the ground and watered abundantly.
When using a shrub as a hedge, you should remember the large size of its crown and make a space between plants of at least 80 centimeters.
Garden shrubs require regular and abundant watering. Lack of moisture leads to deterioration in the growth and condition of the plant as a whole. IN summer period for one watering of an area of size 1 square meter you need at least 20 liters of water.
Like many plants, it does not like waterlogging. To do this, a drainage layer is created during planting.
In winter, watering the plant is not required as it remains in the garden. To withstand cold and frost, its roots are covered with cloth and covered with sawdust. In addition to watering, it is recommended to loosen the soil once every two weeks.
Bush tolerates shade well, but for lush flowering sunlight is needed. Therefore, it is worth choosing an open place so that the sun can freely reach the bush.
sunlight– an obligatory factor for the flowering of shrubs The temperature norm is considered to be from 8 to 25 degrees. IN winter time The main thing is to prevent the root system from freezing.
The plant blooms well and develops only in fertile, loose soil, in which there is no excess moisture. You can prepare the soil for planting yourself. The mixture will require in equal quantities:
In addition to soil, fertilizer plays an important role in development. Fertilizing is done with organic and mineral mixtures. This allows you to get long flowering and a lush bush.
In the first year of the bush’s life, it is fertilized with liquid manure. Starting from the second year, mineral fertilizers are used. It is enough to use them a couple of times a year during the period of active growth.
Over time the bush needs to be rejuvenated, as its old branches become long and bare. This prevents young branches from growing and spoils appearance bush.
The event consists from several stages:
Garden Jasmine periodically needs to be shaped. To do this, gardeners do formative pruning on plants. The event is held after flowering.
The first step is to remove dried inflorescences. Then new shoots are cut off: the green part of the stem. By mid-autumn, new shoots will appear in this place, which will produce flowers for next year.
If desired, reduce the height cut off the longest shoots. For thinning, shoots growing inward and exposed are removed.
Dried parts of the bush require removal first. Due to its strong smell, jasmine is rarely attacked by pests, but due to non-compliance with the rules of care and drought, the plant gets sick and settles on its branches. spider mite, scale insect or aphid.
To kill insects, use a soap solution or specialized insecticidal agents.
He often has leaf shape changes or they fall off altogether. This indicates that the plant does not have enough moisture and should increase watering. The same symptoms appear with excess sunlight.
To correct the situation, the bush is transplanted to another place or shade is created artificially. For example, in the form of a fence or canopy.
Lack of flowering indicates a lack of light, and darkening of the buds means that dry and too warm air is interfering with it.
Garden plant varieties are propagated in several ways:
The longest way. Shrub seeds are planted in beds late autumn or early winter, before severe frosts set in. After planting, the place is covered with spruce branches. In spring, the first shoots appear.
This method makes the plant strong and resistant to diseases and cold. Get flowering plant from seeds it is possible 6-8 years after planting.
In the spring, all shoots are removed from the bush, then in the summer, from the young shoots take the strongest one and is used for reproduction. At the bottom of the shoot, you should tie the branch with wire, which will allow you to get a root in the future.
Then this shoot bends towards the ground and is fixed. After 30-50 days, new shoots appear on the cuttings, which are covered with earth. Closer to autumn, they are separated from the bush and planted separately.
In June, in the morning, a shoot with leaves measuring at least 10 centimeters in size is taken. The cutting is placed in solution for root growth, and then into a greenhouse, where the soil is prepared in advance from peat and sand. The planting depth should be about 3 centimeters.
The distance between the cuttings is approximately 5-6 centimeters. Watering and ventilation during rooting is carried out daily. After a couple of weeks, a root will form, then the cuttings can be planted in the beds.
Cuttings are reliable and easy way bush propagation This method allows short time grow a new bush. Jasmine is dug out of the ground and the root system is divided so that each part has basal shoots.
The best time for the procedure is the end of September or the beginning of October.
Gardeners love Jasmine for its beautiful and fragrant flowering. It happens that a bush does not bloom for a long time. The reason for this may be several factors:
The stems of the plant are green at the beginning of growth, then become yellow, and sometimes covered with brown bark. The leaves are oval, have a rich green color. It blooms from May to July with small flowers with a pronounced honey scent.
Jasmine easy to care for, but it depends on compliance with the rules of cultivation further growth, appearance and flowering.
To popular garden varieties relate:
As a result of crossing these species, other varieties appeared: Efironos, Alabaster, Sambacam and many others.
Its further growth and flowering depends on how the winter goes. Jasmine tolerates cold well, so there is no need to dig it up for the winter.
Covering the bush for the winter instead of digging it up is the right decision Before the onset of severe frosts, the plant cover and leave in hibernation under the snow until spring. Sawdust, spruce branches or spruce branches are used for shelter. After winter, the bush is trimmed and frozen branches are removed.
Gardeners use shrubs to create a living fence. It is planted along the entire perimeter of the summer cottage at a distance of at least 80 centimeters. Jasmine, even in a single bush, gives the garden a magnificent look and delights others with its flowering and scent.
You can plant several varieties at once and then each of them will bloom in turn. throughout the summer. Low varieties are used for rock gardens.
Tall jasmine looks good in front of gazebos and a home lake. Shrubs combine favorably with lilacs and other shrubby plants.
Not just shrubs can be used to decorate gardens and flower beds. We have repeatedly talked about this use of garden flowers. For example, .
Landscape design often turns to this shrub for help Landscape design often turns to this shrub for help Landscape design often turns to this shrub for help
Proper care and attention is all Jasmine needs to good growth and flowering.
Increasingly, in various parks and gardens you can see shrubs up to two meters in height, which are dotted with unusually white beautiful flowers, from which the aroma spreads throughout the area, this is garden jasmine.
This plant also has a second name - mock orange, this flower is very unpretentious and easy to care for, so even a novice gardener can grow it. In today's article we will figure out how to properly care for garden jasmine and in what conditions it is more comfortable for him to grow.
Garden jasmine will grow in both sun and partial shade, but the abundance of flowering in the same bush will be different. Thus, bushes that are planted in the sun bloom better and look more spectacular, while a plant in the shade has more green mass.
Advice: garden jasmine is a frost-resistant plant, but even with all this, when choosing a suitable place for planting, it is better not to give preference to windy areas where there are constant drafts.
Also pay attention to the location of the selected area, is there a possibility that melt water in winter could flood the flower? Excess water can lead to waterlogging of chernozem and, as a result, rotting of the rhizome.
Despite all its unpretentiousness, garden jasmine, as mentioned above, does not tolerate stagnant water. But mock orange bushes have a normal relationship with groundwater, which is located close to the surface of the earth.
Water the bush garden jasmine You need to apply it generously, but do not over-water the plant. Two waterings a week will be quite enough, and water that has been heated and previously settled should be used. A plant that is watered regularly is very cold water, are more susceptible to various diseases.
Mock orange bushes especially urgently need additional feeding during the period of active growth and flowering. Therefore, the first fertilizing should be carried out in early spring, as soon as the snow melts, it is best to use nitrogen-containing fertilizers during this period, they will help the plant actively grow. But at the time of budding and flowering, it is better to use potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.
The bush should be trimmed every 2-3 years, this will help it not to grow too much and at the same time “keep in shape.” Shearing occurs as soon as the plant has flowered or, conversely, after winter, until the bush has bloomed. In any case, pruning excess shoots should be done carefully, because this procedure is not so much aesthetic as it is therapeutic, because after it the plant begins to grow and develop faster. 
There are several methods for propagating garden jasmine, but the most popular are propagation cuttings And dividing the bush. Both the first and second methods can be performed both in spring and autumn, but most gardeners still prefer the period from mid-September to mid-October.
When dividing a bush, you need to dig out the bush very carefully so as not to leave part of the rhizome in the ground, it is better to get the root directly in the ground, and then wash this lump with water, and then remove all the rotten roots. To divide, you need to use a sharp knife; after completing the procedure, parts of the rhizome are planted in separate holes and watered; it is better to treat the cut area with ash.
Garden jasmines are sometimes also called mock orange. Most gardeners believe that a plant grows and blooms “by itself.” But this opinion is not correct. Because if you start to properly care for the bushes, they will bloom even better and more luxuriously. Let's take a closer look at why mock orange does not bloom in some cases, as well as how to care for it.
The most famous varieties The following varieties of mock orange are:
the Innosense variety will grow up to 2.5 meters. Blooms in June. The bush has a spreading crown. Blooms with white, semi-double fragrant flowers. The leaves are green with cream or yellow veins;
There are also varieties that only tolerate warm weather, but there are also those that can withstand even the most severe frosts. It is best to buy mock orange in specialized stores to preserve its quality.
In order for mock orange to bloom magnificently and for a long time in the garden, it is important to plant it correctly. To do this, you need to choose the right place, prepare the soil, and also plant it correctly in open ground.
Read also: Unpretentious perennials - bush carnations
Mock orange will bloom for 50 years if it is watered in a timely manner, the soil is plowed, fertilized, mulched, branches are pruned, and protected from pests.
Stagnant moisture and saline soils with groundwater have a negative effect on mock orange. Therefore, it is recommended to plant the plant on fertile and moist soil. This is the kind of place that will help the mock orange develop and bloom. There are also plant species that can grow in soil with unfavorable environmental conditions.
Jasmines can bloom even in the most shaded places. But they bloom best in partial shade. To admire the flowers of the plant every year, it is recommended to plant mock orange in sunny areas.
The soil for mock orange should be fertile and well permeable. It is recommended to cover clayey areas with a drainage layer: sand, broken brick or expanded clay. Sandy areas can be further diluted with compost or vermicompost. The pits for mock orange are filled with a peat mixture with humus, sand and tree leaves. Immediately before planting, it is recommended to add mature humus to the soil. A little fresh manure can be added to the soil in the fall.
Heavy soil can be lightened by adding weathered peat.
Read also: Gladioli - dangerous diseases and pests
If the plant is transplanted from a pot, the hole is made smaller. Also, after falling asleep with soil, the seedlings need to be watered and mulched with peat or mowed grass.
In order for blooming jasmine to please with its flowering duration, it is recommended to fertilize it, feed it, prune it, water it, and remove weeds.
Since mock orange is pruned every year and grows strongly, it needs to be saturated nutrients. Fertilize the bushes with organic and complex mineral fertilizers.
Mineral fertilizers are applied three times during the growing season:
Bushes are fertilized with superphosphates, potassium sulfates or wood ash.
In the spring, you can additionally add several buckets of rotted manure or compost under the bushes. You can also feed plants with manure with grass and superphosphates.
For mock orange, a nettle mixture is an excellent feed. Nettle will saturate the soil with silicon and microelements that are needed for better growth and jasmine blossoms. To prepare the nettle mixture, fill the barrel with chopped grass and water. Place the container in the shade and cover it slightly. Add double superphosphate and leave to ferment for 10 days. The mixture must be stirred systematically. Ready fertilizer dilute in water. The resulting nettle fertilizer is used to water the bushes.
In order for the bush to bloom beautifully, it is important to trim off weak, broken branches. Faded branches are also pruned back to strong shoots. The healthy young growth left behind will become stronger and bloom more profusely next year. Branches that are too long can be shortened by cutting off their thin tops.
After the pruning procedure, the bushes are earthed up and fed. If the summer is too dry, it is important to water the plants deeply.
You can replant the bushes in September or early spring. Water the mock orange generously and let it stand for 24 hours. Then remove half of the old shoots at the very root, and shorten the remaining branches. Dig up the prepared bush and plant it in a new location. After planting, also water thoroughly and compact the soil.
Read also: Compress derain shrub: tips on selection and care
Before planting mock orange, it is important to find out how it tolerates winter. Some varieties cannot withstand even minimal frosts. And some because severe frost freeze slightly, but if you cut off the affected branches, they will quickly restore their crown and bloom in early summer.
In the fall, it is important to tie the branches together so that they do not break after frost in the spring. The bushes themselves need to be covered with grass, spruce branches, and snowdrifts.
Mock orange reproduces by dividing the bush during transplantation, as well as by layering.
Large branches are bent to the ground and sprinkled with soil. After some time, the cuttings will take root. They are carefully cut off from the main trunk and planted separately for independent development.
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There are times when jasmine bushes stop blooming. The reason for this condition is that they are not properly cared for or were planted incorrectly.
Now you know how mock orange is grown, and also for what reasons it may not bloom. It is recommended to consult with experienced flower growers before planting a jasmine bush in your garden.
If in our latitudes you come across a bush with a fragrant foam of white flowers, do not rush to call it jasmine - it does not grow here. The mock orange is often confused with the southern beauty - unpretentious shrub from the hydrangea family. Many of its species have a heady aroma, which is why mock orange, along with roses and lilacs, has been the main decoration of Russian gardens since ancient times.
Olga Nikitina
Rod Chubushnik ( Philadelphus) belongs to the hydrangea family and has about 50 species native to Western Europe, eastern Asia and North America.
These are deciduous shrubs, mainly with an oval crown and straight shoots, branching only in the upper part. The leaves are ovate-lanceolate, opposite, light green, lemon yellow in autumn or remain green until they fall. They bloom after complete foliation; at this time, white or creamy-white fragrant, less often odorless, flowers appear at the ends of the shoots, collected in racemose inflorescences. The fruit is a capsule with small seeds.
The plant has very hard wood, and its hollow shoots were used to make smoking pipes, which explains its name.
Mock oranges grow successfully and bloom profusely in well-lit areas and in partial shade. True, they are considered shade-tolerant shrubs, since in natural conditions found in the undergrowth of broad-leaved and coniferous-deciduous forests.
Most species and varieties of mock orange are preferred fertile soils with sufficient moisture. They tolerate temporary drought well; after watering, the turgor of the leaves is quickly restored. The only thing they cannot come to terms with is saline soils.
This breed is propagated by seeds (most often species mock oranges, with flowering occurring after 5–8 years) and vegetatively (by root suckers, layering, cuttings, dividing bushes). To preserve decorative characteristics, especially valuable varieties are propagated by summer (semi-lignified) cuttings, which are cut during or before flowering. Then they are planted on special beds or in cold greenhouses for rooting.
When planting mock oranges, you need to adhere to following parameters: in group plantings, the distance between plants should be 0.5–1.5 m, and in a single-row hedge - 0.5 m. To avoid rotting of the root collar, it should not be deepened by more than 2–3 cm.
Best suited for growing these shrubs soil mixture, consisting of leaf soil, humus and sand in a ratio of 3: 2: 1, optimal acidity soil pH 6.5–7.5.
As a rule, all mock oranges have a great shoot-forming ability, so the bushes become very dense over the years, which weakens flowering. Experts recommend periodically thinning out old bushes (for this, the weakest and oldest shoots are cut to the ground), as well as promptly removing faded inflorescences. This rejuvenation of the crown leads to strong growth of new shoots and more abundant flowering.
In addition to pruning, care also includes watering and fertilizing (mineral and organic fertilizers). Slurry (1:10) is used as organic fertilizer at the rate of one bucket per bush once a year. Mineral fertilizers (15 g of urea and potassium sulfate, 30 g of superphosphate) are diluted in 10 liters of water and applied to one or two plants in the third year after planting. Mock orange is demanding of moisture, in June–July trunk circle Two or three buckets of water should be poured per 1 m2. Young plants require more frequent and abundant watering during dry periods.
Mock oranges are highly decorative and very resistant shrubs; thanks to their abundant and exquisite flowering, they are very popular in landscaping, be it a city park or country cottage area. Their species and varietal diversity allows you to create wonderful fragrant compositions that bloom for two months.
Most species and varieties of mock orange prefer fertile soils with sufficient moisture. They tolerate temporary drought well, but cannot tolerate saline soils.
The most common and most winter-hardy species is h. coronal (Ph. coronarius), up to 3 m high, with a rounded-ovoid crown. Homeland - south Western Europe, in culture distributed almost everywhere from Arkhangelsk to southern borders former Union and in Western Siberia.
Very similar to the previous look h. pale, or ordinary(Ph. pallidus), naturally growing in the same region as the previous species. A shrub up to 3 m high, with a dense, oval crown, blooms quite early - in the first ten days of June. But the earliest long flowering(up to 25 days) demonstrates in the conditions of the Moscow region Part Schrenk (Ph.schrenkii), its flowers bloom at the end of May. Distributed in the forests of China and Korea, as well as in the Amur basin. It has hairy shoots and pubescent pedicels. The flowers have a strong aroma that intensifies in the evening.
Early flowering is characterized by h. small-leaved (Ph.microphyllus). This low shrub(up to 1.5 m) with small, graceful leaves, valued for its subtle pineapple aroma. From North America, very popular in culture, was used by the French breeder Lemoine to breed undersized varieties.
Gordon's mock orange (Ph.gordonianus) is one of the tallest species, can reach a height of up to 5 m, also a representative of the North American flora. Valued for its annual very abundant flowering, although its flowers have a weak aroma.
Chubushnik Leviza(Ph. Lewisii) is attractive with a spherical crown and spectacular flowering. Flowers up to 5 cm in diameter are collected in large racemes. Naturally grows in the forests of North America - from British Columbia to California.
Found in mixed forests of the Far East h. thin-leaved (Ph.tenuifolius). A shrub up to 2.5 m high, white, slightly fragrant, pure white flowers are collected in racemose inflorescences of 3–7 pieces.
Widely used in culture Part Caucasian (Ph.caucasicus), naturally growing in the forests of the Caucasus and reaching a height of up to 3 m. The leaves are bright green, creamy, highly fragrant flowers are collected in short dense racemes located at the ends of the shoots. Fast-growing, frost-resistant, undemanding shrub.
One of the most fragrant and abundant flowering species counts part Lemoine (Ph.x lemoinei), which is a hybrid of common ch. and small-leaved ch. This shrub, up to 3 m high, has large, up to 4 cm, white, highly fragrant flowers, collected in racemose inflorescences. It has many varieties that are widely used in green building.
Gorgeous spreading bushes up to 5 m high form h. greyish (Ph. incanus). It received this name for its densely pubescent buds and the underside of the leaves. Simple pure white fragrant flowers are collected in gracefully curved loose racemes.
Very impressive including grandiflora (Ph. grandiflorus) grows naturally in eastern North America. During flowering, it is decorated with large white, up to 5 cm, odorless flowers. Widely used in landscaping in southern and central Russia.
Flowering time depending on the species and variety is from late May to early August.
Common mock orange 
Schrenk's mock orange 
Mock orange Lemoine 
Mock orange Lemoine 
Chubushnik Leviza
Ella Sokolova,
Mock orange is one of the most disease resistant woody plants. It contains a very small number of pathogens of various origins, mainly fungal, compared to other breeds. Diseases of leaves, trunks and branches with a high level of damage lead to a decrease in the decorative value of the shrub.
Powdery mildew (the causative agent is a fungus Phyllactiniaguttata). In July, a white cobwebby coating of mycelium (mycelium) with sporulation appears on the underside of the leaves. The spores re-infect young leaves until the end of summer. Over time, the plaque disappears or remains in the form of round spots. By the end of July, the mycelium forms fruiting bodies mushroom, visible in the form of scattered small black dots. They persist in winter on fallen, infected leaves. In the spring, spores ripen in them, which produce primary infection of the leaves.
Brown spot (the causative agent is a fungus Phyllostictacoronata). In the second half of summer, separate, rarely merging light brown spots with a white border appear on both sides of the leaves. On the upper side of the spots, sporulation of the fungus forms in the form of small scattered brown dots.
Gray spot (the causative agent is a fungus AscochytaPhiladelphia). In July, large round ash-gray spots form on the upper side of the leaves. Sporulation of the fungus develops on the spots, looking like small brown dots located in concentric circles.
Blackish olive spot (the causative agent is a fungus Phyllostictavulgaris). In early July, round spots appear on both sides of the leaves, initially blackish-olive, later brown with a black border. On the upper side of the spots, sporulation of the fungus forms in the form of small black dotted tubercles.
By the end of July, fruiting bodies of the fungus are formed on the mycelium, noticeable in the form of scattered small black dots. They persist in winter on fallen, infected leaves.
Tubercular (nectria) necrosis (the causative agent is a fungus Tuberculariavulgaris). The cortex and vascular system are affected. In the thickness of the dying and dead bark, mycelium formations are formed - stromas protruding from cracks in the bark in the form of pink, pinkish-red, brick-red, often darkening to dark brown, rounded pads with a diameter of 1-3 mm. Fungal spores develop on the stroma, which infect the shoots during the growing season.
Diplodia necrosis (the causative agent is a fungus Diplodia philadelphia). Local or circular necrosis with reddish-brown bark forms on trunks and branches. In the thickness of the affected bark, sporulation of the pathogen is formed in the form of numerous scattered black tubercles protruding from cracks in the bark.
Hendersonia necrosis (the causative agent is a fungus Hendersonia coronaria). The bark in the affected areas darkens, but is clearly distinguished from the healthy one. In the thickness of the cortex, sporulation of the pathogen is formed in the form of numerous small brown scattered or crowded tubercles protruding from breaks in the periderm.
Microdiploid necrosis (the causative agent is a fungus Microdiplodiamicrosporella). The affected bark becomes red-brown in color. In the thickness of the bark, sporulation of the fungus develops in the form of small black crowded tubercles protruding from cracks in the periderm.
Bacterial necrosis (the causative agent is a bacterium Pseudomonassyringae). In spring, brown, moist necrotic areas in the form of spots form on young shoots. The affected bark and phloem rot. Stains of dead bast in spring and autumn periods spread to the outer layers of wood, which, like the bark, turns brown and dies. Individual necrotic spots often merge, ringing the branches and causing their death. Watery, translucent spots appear on the leaves of affected shoots irregular shape, which darken over time, dry out and fall out.
To protect mock orange from diseases, a set of measures is carried out:
Tamara Galaseva,Candidate of Agricultural Sciences
Only four types of pests are known on various types of mock orange, the occurrence and harmfulness of which varies greatly. All of them are polyphages that damage other species of trees and even herbaceous plants, and feed on leaves and non-lignified shoots.
Sucking pests suck out juices from leaves and thin shoots. On mock oranges you can find beet or bean aphids more often than others - Aphis fabae, sometimes incorrectly called jasmine aphid - Aphis Philadelphia. Aphids are broadly ovoid, 1.8–2.5 mm long, brown, black or greenish with a slightly noticeable waxy coating. In spring and early summer, aphids live and feed on mock orange and other shrubs (euonymus and viburnum), on which two or three generations are raised. In the second half of summer, they move to herbaceous plants (beets, poppy, beans, sunflowers, potatoes and many others) where up to 10 generations of aphids develop. In the fall (September), they again fly to the mock orange (the primary host) and lay eggs at the base of the buds. Due to damage, mock orange leaves curl, petioles and shoots become bent.
When aphids multiply massively, the leaves of the bush become covered with honeydew (sticky sugary secretions of aphids), on which sooty fungi develop, which reduces the decorativeness of the plants.
In some years, colonies of common spider mites can suck the juices from leaves and non-lignified shoots of mock oranges. Tetranychus turkestanica. Damaged leaves on the shoot become covered with a thin web and gradually turn yellow. Mite colonies multiply on the underside of leaves, under the web. The insects are very small, 0.5–0.6 mm long, colorless or light green. The defeat of mock orange is observed in the second half of summer, at the end of July - August. An increase in air temperature at this time is favorable for tick reproduction and contributes to the development of a large number of generations (up to 10). Before wintering, the color of the females changes to red. Only females hibernate. under fallen leaves and other plant debris, as well as in bark cracks and other secluded places.
An increase in air temperature at this time is favorable for the reproduction of spider mites.
The larvae and adults of the beetles gnaw holes of various shapes in the leaves or eat them completely, sometimes leaving only the veins intact.
Mock orange leaves are sometimes eaten from the edges by weevils of the genus Phyllobius. They are small, 5–7 mm long, the surface of the body is almost completely covered with light green scales with a metallic tint. Beetles actively feed on leaves and many other tree species in spring and early summer. The larvae of these weevils live in the soil and gnaw roots various types herbal plants.
Very rarely, in the southern regions of the country, mock orange leaves are eaten by hawk moth caterpillars. (Acherontia atrops) . The larvae (caterpillars) of this species of hawkmoth are naked, lemon-yellow in color, with blue oblique stripes converging on the back under acute angle. The caterpillar's body is covered with sticky black and blue dots. At the end of the body on the dorsal side, like most hawkmoths, there is a horn in the shape of the letter “C”. The caterpillars of this hawkmoth also feed on the leaves of herbaceous plants of the nightshade family: belladonna (belladonna), wolfberry, oak, poppy, etc. The hawkmoth received its name because of the pattern of scales and hairs on the back of the butterfly, reminiscent of a skull.
Due to damage by aphids, mock orange shoots become bent, leaves curl, and when the pest multiplies massively, they become covered with honeydew, on which sooty fungi develop.
Olga Nikitina
Everyone who is even slightly interested in gardening knows the exquisite aroma of mock orange. In addition, this plant is known for its numerous species and garden hybrids that can charm even the most discerning connoisseurs.
Very often, mock orange is called garden jasmine for the rich aroma of white flowers, similar to the smell of blooming tropical jasmine.
Mock oranges are widely used in urban landscaping; they tolerate smoke, dust and air pollution well. In parks and squares they can be seen in single and group plantings, as well as in hedges. Small species are used in borders and mixborders. Dwarf varieties suitable for rockeries and slides. Mock orange can play an important and even leading role in creating white gardens, which is facilitated by the variety of crown shapes, color and texture of leaves, sizes and shades of inflorescences.
Other beautiful flowering shrubs, such as spirea, rose hips, weigels, and lilacs, are suitable as partners for mock oranges. Interesting and spectacular compositions are obtained with pink-flowered apple trees blooming in May and early flowering species and varieties of mock orange. A yellow-leaved variety h. coronary ‘ Aure A' will be a bright accent in joint landing with green-leaved mock oranges and a wonderful companion flowering bushes lilac.
The species and varietal diversity of mock oranges makes it possible to create an exquisite aromatic collection from these wonderful plants, taking into account the timing of their flowering. The very first to bloom at the end of May h. Schrenk, in the first ten days of June they begin to bloom Part Caucasian, h. pale, h. coronal, h. small-leaved. Flowering of late-flowering species begins in late June - early July and ends in early August. These include Part Magdalene, including grandiflora, odorless, part Lemoine, h. fluffy. If you add their varieties to the list of mock orange species, you will get a wonderful collection of fragrant, beautifully flowering shrubs.
When we talk about lilacs, we definitely remember Leonid Alekseevich Kolesnikov (not to be confused with A.I. Kolesnikov, a dendrologist, author of the famous textbook “Decorative Dendrology”), who created a huge number of unique varieties that have received worldwide recognition. But the greatest expert on chubushniks was Nikolai Kuzmich Vekhov. A well-known Soviet scientist, breeder and dendrologist, he headed the Lipetsk Experimental Breeding Station for thirty years and is the author of winter-hardy varieties of mock orange. His famous monograph Jasmines, published in 1952, is still very popular.
Russia can be proud of its domestic varieties, the best of which are considered to be mock orange varieties selected by N.K. Vekhova. He obtained abundantly flowering and, most importantly, winter-hardy varieties by seed from varietal Lemoine. As a result of hybridization and subsequent selection, Vekhov created numerous varieties, such as ‘Snow Avalanche’, ‘Moon Light’, ‘Ballet Motylkov’, ‘Pompon’, ‘Akademik Komarov’, ‘Airborne Landing’, ‘Arctic’ and many others.
Mock oranges tolerate smoke, dust and air pollution well.
Among the abundantly flowering varieties of mock oranges of the Vekhi selection there are non-flowering ones low-growing varieties – 'Dwarf' And 'Dwarf'. The breeder recommended using them as “green buttons” that “fasten” the lawn to the ground, as well as for creating low borders that require almost no mowing.
Many types of mock orange and their varieties are quite winter-hardy and feel great in central Russia. Currently Russian garden centers offer a variety of planting material for these shrubs. But you need to be extremely careful when choosing one or another variety, especially of foreign origin.
It is no secret that in severe winters, even winter-hardy species and varieties freeze to the level of snow cover. But since these plants have a powerful root system, the frostbitten bush quickly recovers after pruning the damaged shoots. Worse is less winter-hardy species and varieties, because they can freeze and root system.
Along with with the coronal part used in landscaping h. pale, but its varieties are of particular interest:
‘ Flore Plena ’ - with luxurious double flowers.
‘ Grandiflora ’ – with flowers up to 5 cm in diameter.
‘ Salicifolia ’ - with original narrow lanceolate leaves, similar to willow.
‘ Pumila ’ – shrub up to 50 cm high.
In landscape design, hybrids of the famous French breeder Lemoine are especially popular. Among them there are many varieties that have proven themselves well in conditions middle zone Russia:
‘ Alabastrite ’ – an upright growing shrub up to 2 m high. Large, up to 5.5 cm in diameter, semi-double snow-white flowers are collected in inflorescences of 7–9 pieces.
‘ Dame Blanche ’ - a shrub 1 m high and a crown diameter of 1.5 m; during flowering it is decorated with white fragrant flowers. Dark green leaves turn yellow in autumn.
‘ Erectus ’ - a spreading shrub with a crown height and diameter of up to 2 m. Simple white flowers have a strong, pleasant aroma. For planting it requires places well protected from the wind.
‘ Mont Blanc ’ - shrub up to 1.8 m high with quite large leaves. Graceful semi-double pure white flowers have a strong aroma.
Lemoine varieties with two-tone flower colors are very impressive and original: ‘ Belle Etoile ’ , ‘ Bicolore ’ , ‘ Beauclerk ’ . They have fairly large white flowers (up to 5.5 cm in diameter) with a pink-purple center and long yellow stamens. Unfortunately, these exquisite varieties are not very frost-resistant, and they can only be recommended for cultivation in the southern regions.
North American species odorless reaches a height of 3 m, is distinguished by green shoots and large leaves up to 7 cm long. Its variety is magnificent ‘ Grandiflorus ’ 4 m high with large, up to 6 cm in diameter, white flowers, but, unfortunately, odorless. This variety has a long flowering period - up to 30 days.
Russia can be proud of its domestic varieties, the best of which are considered to be mock orange varieties selected by N.K. Vekhova.
Marina Kulikova, Candidate of Biological Sciences
The medicinal and cosmetic properties of mock orange are still not very well studied; there is little information about them. But it is true that its smell can give you a headache and upset your heart.
From flowers and even leaves Many types of mock orange extract fragrant essential oil. Its flowers contain only 0.1–0.18% essential oil, the main component of which is anthranilic acid methyl ester. 7-hydroxycoumarin and 8-methoxycoumarin are also found in the plant.
Philadelphus tenuifolius), which is common in the Far East. WITH therapeutic purpose flowers and roots are used. The leaves and fruits of mock orange contain flavonoids. An infusion of flowers helps with neurosis, neurasthenia, and is used as a diuretic. A decoction of the roots is useful for hemorrhoids.
It is better to collect mock orange flowers in the morning in dry weather, since they begin to open at dawn and at this time contain the greatest amount of essential oils. Immediately after picking, the flowers must be dried in the shade or in the oven at a temperature not exceeding +40 ºС.
Recipes
Infusion of flowers: 2 tsp. Pour a glass of boiling water over dried flowers, leave for 1-2 hours, strain. Take 1/4 cup 3 times a day before meals.
Root decoction: 1 tbsp. l. crushed dry roots, pour 2 glasses of water, boil for 3-4 minutes, leave for 2 hours. Take 2 tbsp. l. 3–4 times a day. The decoction can be used for baths for hemorrhoids.
Most often in folk medicine use thin-leaved mock orange ( Philadelphus tenuifolius), which is common in the Far East.
