Probably the best way to increase the usable area of your own home is to replace the gable roof of the house with an attic one. This way you can buy one, two or even three additional rooms, without carving out additional space on the site and without getting involved in the very labor-intensive processes of pouring a new foundation and erecting walls. And to find out how to make an attic correctly, you need to consider all the stages of its arrangement, starting with calculations and ending with roof covering and finishing of the resulting additional rooms.
In order for all the work to be successful, first of all you need to make sure that the existing walls (if the superstructure is being built in an old house) are able to withstand the additional load. This factor will determine whether such a construction project is worth undertaking, and if so, which attic roof design would be best to choose.
It should be noted that the load on load-bearing walls will increase significantly - due to more rafters, due to the mass of interior decoration of walls and floors, windows and doors, insulation systems, as well as all elements of the interior filling of attic rooms. All of these factors indicate that you need to start with a choice optimal design attic, with calculations, design and drawings of the future superstructure.
According to current building codes, an attic is considered to be a room under a roof that has a height from the ceiling to the ridge of at least 2500 mm. If this parameter is less than the specified limit, then the room is considered an ordinary attic.
The basis of any roof structure is always triangles with their “rigid” structure There are several types of attic superstructures, but the most popular of them are high gable and broken structures. Their popularity can be explained by simpler calculations, relatively simple installation work and ease of use. In third place, after gable and broken structures, we can name a single-pitch roof option, which is also sometimes used for arranging an attic. Unfortunately, not every house design can use this type of superstructure, since it requires not only reconstruction of the roof, but also raising the already built walls, which significantly increases the load on both them and the foundation.
If a new house is being built and a second floor in the form of an attic is planned, then a pitched roof option is well suited for this purpose. In addition, this will help save on roofing material.
More complex structures - domed, hipped, and also with various cantilever projections arranged in the roof slopes (single-level and multi-level) are used extremely rarely and only in exclusive projects, since they have a complex design both in engineering calculations and in installation.
The figure below the numbers shows:
1 – Gable attic.
2 – Broken attic
3 – Single-level cantilever attic
4 – Multi-level attic.
Attic space under d a vuskat roof, which is arranged at an angle between the slopes of 80 ÷ 90 degrees at the ridge, can easily be converted into an attic. To create full-fledged residential premises under it, it will be necessary to carry out a number of necessary reconstructions, for example, very often it cannot be done without strengthening attic floor. All these alterations, plus the necessary insulation, will certainly “eat up” a significant part of the usable space under the roof, so you should not expect that the rooms in such an attic will be spacious and with high ceilings.
Of course, if the dimensions (length and width) of the house are large enough, and the roof has a significant angle of inclination (45 degrees or even higher), then after the alterations you can count on a relatively spacious attic space.
The room under the sloping attic roof will be much more spacious and with a fairly high ceiling. Such an attic can be easily divided into two separate rooms.
Interior of an attic made according to the “broken” type The sloping roof has four planes of slopes. They are placed at different angles - the upper slopes are called ridge slopes, and the lower ones are called side slopes. They, for the most part, act as walls.
This type of mansard roof is somewhat more difficult to design and install, but the result will delight you with spacious rooms and a respectable appearance Houses.
This type of attic has even more complex design than the previous one, since it implies a displacement of the attic space to one side or the other.
Using this option for installing an attic, you can get spacious rooms, much larger in area than under a pitched roof.
The design of a single-level attic roof can replicate not only a gable, but also a single-slope version - this will depend on how much it is planned to move the console out of the attic and raise its ceiling.
Multi-level construction is the most difficult to design and install. The help of qualified specialists will definitely be needed in its development and construction. The supports for the levels of the attic rooms are various rafter systems and ceilings, which are combined with the main one. A multi-level system involves the arrangement of rooms at different levels of the attic, which is why the consoles should be located this way.
Having chosen the most desirable type of attic, you need to determine whether it is possible to install it on the old walls of the house, or whether they will have to be strengthened. Therefore it is necessary to carry out accurate calculations and draw up a project.
Most roofs, and attic roofs are no exception, have one of two types of rafter systems, or a combination of them. Each of these varieties has its own characteristics, which depend on the location of the load-bearing walls of the building.
A hanging rafter system is defined by the fact that it is supported only by two external main walls located along the length of the building, in which there are no internal main partitions.
Such a system is used provided that the distance between the main supports is no more than 13 ÷ 14 meters. In any case, this design puts a fairly large load on the walls and foundation of the building.
To weaken the loads in this system, various support structures are used. elements - crossbars, headstocks, struts, tightening, racks and other parts.
For example, the headstocks seem to hang the entire system to the ridge beam, and the struts pull the ceiling beams to the rafters.
For the attic floor in this system, it is necessary to use thick bars, logs or boards that are installed on the edge. Their thickness can be determined from the table given in this publication, taking as a basis the distance between the support points.
In order for the ceiling to be reliable and durable when using a hanging system, you need to make accurate calculations, and if it is difficult to do this yourself, then it is better
The layered system is distinguished by the fact that it has supports not only on the external main walls, but also on internal partitions, which have a foundation.
Therefore, when starting the construction of a house in which an attic is planned, you need to think in advance about the location of the internal capital partitions.
For a house with an attic, a layered system is the best option, since the beams covering the house will be firmly and securely fixed to the walls and partitions.
When constructing a broken attic roof structure, you can use a combined version of the rafter system, that is, use elements of both a hanging and layered system.
When drawing up a project for the construction of any type of attic, it is recommended to consider it in different projections in order to clearly determine the location of all supporting elements. When calculating all the parameters of the attic, they must be immediately included in the project.
Based on the calculations made, the locations and methods of installation of all structural elements of the rafter system are determined. Calculation is also necessary to accurately determine the materials needed for the construction of the attic and their parameters.
Any of the wooden structures of the attic roof consists of certain elements that are interconnected connecting nodes having different configurations. To better understand the design of these connections, it is recommended to draw each of them, and when making installation work- Be sure to have this drawing on hand.
The design of a sloping mansard roof includes the following components of the system:
It is quite difficult to independently develop a mansard roof project, since this process requires certain knowledge and skills in designing and carrying out specific architectural calculations. If you make mistakes, the attic structure will be unreliable, and in addition, its weight can damage the walls and foundation of the building.
Everything must be taken into account in the calculations - from the beginning of construction to the finishing of the premises. However, if the design is not too complex, then you can try to cope on your own.
Calculation of ridge height
Size usable area attic space depends on the height of the roof ridge, and the latter is determined by the selected slope of the slopes - the smaller this angle, the lower the ceiling and, accordingly, the smaller effective area attic space.
N=L× tgα
N— ridge height;
L- ½ the width of the building (if we are talking about a gable symmetrical roof);
α - angle of inclination of the rafter system slope.
Diagram - for clarity As an example, you can substitute the data used in the formula above:
Building size 8×10 m, slope angle 30°, tangent 30°= 0.58
H = 8/2 × 0.58 = 2.32 m
The height of the ridge will be equal to 2,32 m.
The process and all other related parameters are described in great detail, with all possible nuances and necessary reference tables, from a separate publication devoted specifically to this issue.
Square internal space attics
The technique used to determine the area of the attic space will make it possible to calculate the amount required material for the construction of a rafter system, for insulation and finishing. Particularly accurate calculations are important if the attic will be used to furnish additional living rooms, as they require special design.
Usually the entire area of the room under the roof is calculated, that is, both useful and the so-called "deaf". The living space is limited by installed racks, which will be the basis for the installation and finishing material of the walls. The area behind them is considered deaf, that is, most often not used.
The total area is calculated quite simply: the width of the overhangs on both sides is added to the width of the building. The resulting amount is multiplied by the length of the building.
The area of the living space is also easy to find: to do this, you need to measure the width of the attic space between the racks installed under one and the other roof slope, and multiply the resulting parameter by the length of the attic from gable to gable.
Square roofing
To determine in advance the amount of roofing material, you need to calculate total area roof slopes.
If you decide to install a broken or even more complex structure, you need to calculate the area of all sections of the roof. To do this, you need to divide it into separate geometric shapes, and then calculate the area of each of them and add up the results.
For those who do not firmly remember the formulas for calculating the areas of flat figures, a diagram is provided - a “cheat sheet”.
Shed roof area
If the attic roof is pitched, then its area can be calculated using the formula: Sabcd = Lcd × Lbd.
The area of one slope - nothing could be simpler Pay attention to the picture. When calculating, not only length and width are taken into account truss structure slope - we must not forget about the eaves overhangs on all sides.
Gable roof
With a symmetrical arrangement of roof slopes, to calculate a gable roof, all that remains is to multiply the value obtained above by two.
For example, let's take the same example discussed above. The size of the building is 10×8 m. The angle of the slope is 30°, the height of the ridge H = 2.32 m. It is easy to determine the length of the rafters - S
S = Н / sin α = 2.32 / 0.5 = 4.64 m
We accept cornice overhang 0,7 m, gable overhang 0,7 m. Using the formula for a pitched roof, the area of one slope is calculated.
(10 + 2×0.7) × (4.64 + 0.7) = 60.88 m²
Then, to get the total area of the two slopes, the resulting result is multiplied by two.
Q = 121.76 m²
This technique is intended for calculating the continuous surface of slopes, without taking into account windows, ventilation ducts and chimneys.
If the roof has a very complex structure, then it is better not to take risks and still seek help from professionals who will make the necessary calculations using special computer applications.
When using slate, soft roofing, others profile materials, you can use a simplified calculation formula.
Let's start from the picture:
So, the following formula is applicable for calculation:
Q= K × (B + 2A) × (L+2C)
Q— the required amount of roofing;
IN — width of the building (along the gable wall);
A— the width of the planned roof eaves;
L — total length building;
C- width of the side overhangs of the roof.
TO is a coefficient that takes into account the angle of inclination of the slope relative to the horizon (α). By and large, it is a trigonometric function secant (sec), equal to the reciprocal of cosα.
In order not to go deep into theory, it’s easier to give a table of the coefficient TO in absolute, that is, numerical dimension:
| Tilt angle, degrees | Factor K | Tilt angle, degrees | Factor K | Tilt angle, degrees | Factor K | Tilt angle, degrees | Factor K |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1.0002 | 18 | 1.0515 | 36 | 1.2361 | 53 | 1.6616 |
| 2 | 1.0006 | 19 | 1.0576 | 37 | 1.2521 | 54 | 1.7013 |
| 3 | 1.0014 | 20 | 1.0642 | 38 | 1.2690 | 55 | 1.7434 |
| 4 | 1.0024 | 21 | 1.0711 | 39 | 1.2868 | 56 | 1.7883 |
| 5 | 1.0038 | 22 | 1.0785 | 40 | 1.3054 | 57 | 1.8361 |
| 6 | 1.0055 | 23 | 1.0864 | 41 | 1.3250 | 58 | 1.8871 |
| 7 | 1.0075 | 24 | 1.0946 | 42 | 1.3456 | 59 | 1.9416 |
| 8 | 1.0098 | 25 | 1.1034 | 43 | 1.3673 | 60 | 2.0000 |
| 9 | 1.0125 | 26 | 1.1126 | 44 | 1.3902 | 61 | 2.0627 |
| 10 | 1.0154 | 27 | 1.1223 | 45 | 1.4142 | 62 | 2.1301 |
| 11 | 1.0187 | 28 | 1.1326 | 46 | 1.4396 | 63 | 2.2027 |
| 12 | 1.0223 | 29 | 1.1434 | 47 | 1.4663 | 64 | 2.2812 |
| 13 | 1.0263 | 30 | 1.1547 | 48 | 1.4945 | 65 | 2.3662 |
| 14 | 1.0306 | 31 | 1.1666 | 49 | 1.5243 | 66 | 2.4586 |
| 15 | 1.0353 | 32 | 1.1792 | 50 | 1.5557 | 67 | 2.5593 |
| 16 | 1.0403 | 33 | 1.1924 | 51 | 1.5890 | 68 | 2.6695 |
| 17 | 1.0457 | 34 | 1.2062 | 52 | 1.6243 | 69 | 2.7904 |
| 35 | 1.2208 | 70 | 2.9238 |
Let's return to our example:
Q= 1.1547 × (8 + 2 × 0.7) × (10+2 × 0.7) = 123.74 m²
Taking into account overlaps slate sheets - the result is almost the same as in calculations carried out by another method. Of course, on the advice of experienced builders, another 10 ÷ 15 should be added to the resulting area when purchasing roofing material %
(The picture shows gable roof However, the formula is fully suitable for calculations with the required level of accuracy for pitched or hip roofs. True, with a caveat - hip roof The steepness of the main and side slopes must match. If not, then the calculation is carried out for each pair of slopes separately, and then the value is summed).
Total weight of troping system and roofing
It is equally important to correctly select the optimal material for the roofing and correctly make the sheathing for it. This calculation is carried out taking into account the length of the rafters and their slope angle.
The lathing for roofing material can be sparse, mixed or solid. For example, metal tiles, corrugated sheets or slate are fixed to a sparse sheathing, and soft roof- only for continuous.
When choosing a roof, you need to get information about it operational characteristics. The durability and reliability of the roof structure will depend on them. Roofing material you must also choose taking into account the specific region and its climatic conditions, especially factors such as temperature changes and strong winds.
An important factor is the weight of the roofing, especially if the attic roof is installed on old walls. Therefore, you should estimate the weight of the roof in advance and find out how much the load on the building structure will increase, and whether it will be acceptable.
| Roofing material for attic roof | Roof slope | Material weight kg/m² |
|---|---|---|
| Asbestos cement slate sheets with medium profile | From 1:10 to 1:2 | 11 |
| Slate with reinforced profile | From 1:5 to 1:1 | 13 |
| Bituminous shingles | From 1:10 and more | 6 - 8 |
| Soft roofing with continuous sheathing | From 1:10 and more | 9 - 15 |
| Galvanized single seam metal sheets | From 1:4 and more | 3 - 6,5 |
| Double folded | From 1:5 and more | 3 - 6,5 |
| Ceramic tiles | From 1:5 to 1:0.5 | 50 - 60 |
| Cement-sand tiles | From 1:5 to 1:0.5 | 45 - 70 |
| Metal tiles | From 1:5 and more | 5 - 7 |
| Ondulin | From 1:10 and more | 3 - 3,5 |
Most often, soft roofing or ondulin is used to cover attics, since these materials are among those that have the lightest weight and are easy to install.
For example, you can calculate the weight of 1 square meter roofs where ondulin is used for covering, taking into account the sheathing and insulation - sprayed polyurethane foam. To do this, you need to find the sum of the weight of each of the materials and multiply by a factor of 1.1 (this factor takes into account the overlap on adjacent sheets of roofing material).
We get in total:
(14 + 3 + 3.3) × 1.1=22.3kg/m²
To calculate the total weight load of the roof on the walls, you need to multiply the weight of one square meter by the area of the entire covering. In our example this will work:
M = 123.74 × 22.3 = 2751.82 kg.
A lot - almost 3 tons - is provided only by a very light roof covering with sheathing and also a very light type of insulation.
But this is not all! Effective on the roof snow loads in winter, plus wind pressure, year-round. These parameters are also necessarily taken into account when calculating the necessary wooden structural elements of the rafter system and floor beams, and when taking into account the total load of the roof structure on the walls and foundation of the building.
— Then the whole system closes vapor barrier film, which is secured to the joists with brackets.
— Boards or plywood sheets can be laid on top of it.
— Decorative covering is laid on them — it can be linoleum, laminate, parquet board and other materials.
Additional insulation can be created by laying an electric cable or infrared heated floor under the decorative covering. It is better to read about these possibilities separately in the article dedicated to
— On the side of the lower room, boards are mounted on the floor beams. It is desirable that they be smooth; you can even use a floorboard for the subfloor.
— After that, a vapor barrier film is laid on these boards from the attic side, which will cover not only the subfloor, but also the floor beams.
— Another layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of it and attached to the beams.
- Then, logs are attached to this covering perpendicular to the beams.
— Another layer of insulation is installed between the joists; it is better to choose mineral wool for it, since it, when straightened, fits tightly between the bars, leaving no voids.
— Then it should also be covered with a vapor barrier material.
If you decide to cover the floor with one of decorative coatings, then plywood sheets are laid on top of the logs, and then laminate, linoleum or other materials are laid on them. Again, nothing prevents you from using, for example, film floor heating in this case.
Having finished installing the floor, you can proceed to installing the insulation on the walls.
— If material in mats is chosen for this process, then before laying it, sheets of vapor barrier material are fixed to the rafters.
It is fixed in such a way as to cover the entire space and deepen it between the rafters.
If the vapor barrier is fixed on the other side of the rafters, then the mats will independently adhere between two wooden surfaces.
— If one of them is selected, then there is no need to attach a vapor barrier film under it. Waterproofing, which is laid on the rafters on the outside of the structure, will be sufficient.
Spraying polyurethane foam - quickly and efficiently, but requires special equipment and work skills To use this insulation technology, you must have a special technological equipment, or you will have to invite a specialist who will do the job in one day. It is not easy to carry out this operation on your own without experience - in order to complete the work without harming your health, you need to know the technology of the process and have the necessary protective equipment.
After the insulation work has been carried out, the walls are sheathed.
Insulation
Before you start decorating the walls, it is necessary to resolve the issue of electrical wiring, the cable of which must be well insulated using double-layer corrugated pipes.
After the wiring is done electric cable, you can safely begin installing the finishing material.
For finishing, they usually use wooden lining, plasterboard or plywood with a beautiful textured pattern.
For any of the specified materials, it is advisable to make a sheathing of slats on the rafter legs and vertical posts with a cross-sectional area of approximately 20 × 70 mm. These guides are fixed in increments of 500 ÷ 600 mm. In addition to the fact that the sheathing of slats becomes the basis for fastening the finishing, it also forms a ventilation gap between finishing material and vapor barrier.
Therefore, plasterboard finishing should be chosen by those homeowners who like to frequently change interior design premises.
If desired, after installation the wood can be coated with water-based varnish or given a deeper color using stain.
Wood is an amazing material that can create a special atmosphere in a room with the aroma of the forest, which has a positive effect on the structure and well-being of the residents. That is why natural lining is very often chosen for cladding the floor, walls and ceiling of the attic.
This material can be covered with varnish, paint or any type of wallpaper, but you can leave the walls in their natural state, only by carefully cleaning out possible defects in the form of protruding splinters or burrs.
Building an attic is a rather labor-intensive and complex process that requires high experience in the construction craft. If no one has any idea about the above-described technological operations, then you shouldn’t undertake it yourself - it’s better to invite professional craftsmen to carry out the work. They will save you from unnecessary problems and will build the attic according to the project conceived by the owner of the house.
An attic space can become a comfortable office, a children's playroom or a cozy bedroom if it is properly insulated and decorated. This process is not much different from thermal insulation of rooms in the house, but still has its own nuances. It’s not difficult to do high-quality attic insulation with your own hands; the main thing is to choose the right materials and follow the instructions.
Before insulating the attic, you need to prepare it: remove everything unnecessary, clean it from dust, and seal every single crack. Special attention are given to the window opening, sealing the joints around the perimeter of the glass unit. Small cracks are covered with putty, large cracks are filled with pieces of foam plastic, and then sealed with cement mortar.
All wooden elements should be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.
Insulation must be complete, therefore both the floor and walls (if any) are also checked for gaps, unevenness, and other defects. Floor beams cover protective compounds, the surface of the walls is primed. The waterproofing film should be located with outside rafters, its laying is usually done during the installation of the roof. Sometimes they do without waterproofing at all: roofing good quality does not allow water to pass through and perfectly protects the rafter system from excess moisture.
Thermal insulation of the attic can be done using the simplest tools:
Mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam boards, and penoplex are used as insulation. For thermal insulation of the rafter system, it is better to choose slab materials, which are more convenient to fasten between beams. But on the attic floor you can lay both slab and roll insulation. When choosing, you should take into account the vapor permeability of the material, its durability and strength.
Polystyrene foam is considered the cheapest and lightest insulation material; It is easy to cut, convenient to mount on both horizontal and vertical surfaces. It is not afraid of moisture, but at the same time it has low vapor permeability, which can cause dampness in the attic. In addition, polystyrene foam is damaged by mice and releases toxic substances when burned.
Expanded polystyrene is stronger than polystyrene foam, less flammable and toxic, and has higher vapor permeability. It is as easy to install as polystyrene foam and is available in slabs of different thicknesses.
Mineral wool is probably the most popular insulation for residential premises. It is valued for its environmental friendliness, non-flammability, and high thermal insulation properties. In addition, mineral wool perfectly muffles sounds, which is especially important for proper rest. When wet and severely deformed, this material loses its thermal insulation qualities, so during installation it should be handled carefully and protected from dampness.
Additionally, when insulating the attic you will need:
If everything is ready, you can start working. The most labor-intensive stage is insulating the roof, since sloping surfaces are more difficult to work with. That is why they start with the roof, then insulate the walls and floor of the attic. And only after that they begin finishing. It is not recommended to finish part of the room before laying thermal insulation in adjacent areas, as this may compromise the tightness of the layers.
Insulation boards are cut so that their width is 3-4 cm more distance between rafter beams. Next, measure the thickness of the rafters, because the thermal insulation layer should not protrude beyond the edges of the floor beams. If the thickness of the rafters is less than the thickness of the insulation sheet, wooden slats are placed on top along the beams. If the rafters are much thicker than the slabs, the thermal insulation is laid in two layers.
The slabs are carefully inserted between the beams and aligned at the corners and joints. There should be no gaps or voids; the entire space is tightly filled with insulation.
If rolled material is used, nails are placed vertically on the beams in increments of 30 cm and a thick fishing line and cord are tied to the top nails. Having laid the edge of the insulation, they tighten it with fishing line, and continue this until the end of the run. When the entire under-roof space is covered with a thermal insulation layer, a vapor barrier can be installed.
Glassine, polyethylene, and sometimes roofing felt are used as vapor barriers, but the most practical option for the attic is polypropylene film with a foil coating. This material reliably protects the surface from any evaporation from inside the room, from the penetration of moisture from the outside, and also increases the thermal insulation properties of the lower layer by reflecting infrared rays.
The foil film is attached with a stapler to the rafter beams with the shiny side facing toward the attic; The film is placed on the sections with an overlap of 10 cm, and then they are glued with aluminum tape or tape. On the sides, the vapor barrier should extend 5-10 cm onto the walls, and a small allowance should also be left along the floor line. It is not recommended to stretch the film too much or leave sagging areas: the material should be evenly distributed over the surface and move away by a maximum of 2 cm.
Depending on the type of roof, the attic walls may differ in height and location. Usually the gables of the house act as walls, but sometimes the roof does not reach the floor and vertical walls up to 1 m high are left on the sides of the attic. Since the walls are already primed when preparing the room, insulation begins with waterproofing:
You can insulate the walls a little differently: the surface is leveled with cement plaster, primed, and then polystyrene foam boards are taken and glued to the walls.
A special reinforcing mesh is attached to the glue on top, and decorative plaster is applied to it. If the finishing involves covering the attic with clapboard, siding or plasterboard, load-bearing slats must be present. The insulation layer is covered with foil film, paying special attention to the corner seams.
The floor of the attic is also the ceiling of the house, and insulation from the attic side saves free space in living rooms. The floor can be insulated not only with slabs or roll materials, but also loose, for example, expanded clay. This method is suitable for houses with durable floors, since the expanded clay layer has enough high load on the ceiling beams.
They start by laying a waterproofing film on the attic floor. The film is laid out on the surface, carefully distributed between the floor beams, and then fixed on the sides of the beams with a stapler. All overlaps are taped; Along the perimeter, the film should extend slightly onto the walls. Between the beams, polystyrene foam, mineral wool are tightly laid out, or a layer of expanded clay is poured. Thermal insulation should not rise above the ceilings, and voids should not be left in the corners. Now the insulation needs to be covered with a foil vapor barrier, the joints glued and boards, chipboard or plywood at least 2 cm thick on top.
The edges of the film are cut with a sharp knife, and the joints are sealed with tape. Starting from the ceiling, wooden slats are placed on top of the vapor barrier film in increments of 30-40 cm, depending on the type of finish. The slats must be attached perpendicularly load-bearing beams, and the sheathing, accordingly, is perpendicular to the slats. In the corners between the roof and walls, 2 slats are placed side by side on each side so that the edges of the sheathing are tightly fixed to the surface. Along the perimeter of the window opening, slats are also placed for attaching the platbands.
At this point, the thermal insulation of the attic can be considered complete. If each stage was completed with all diligence, the room will remain warm even in the most severe frosts. And on hot days, a layer of insulation will keep the room cool, despite the proximity of a hot roof.
Insulating the attic from the inside has its own characteristics, this is due to the specifics of the room. An attic space with a complex structure and microclimate requires a competent approach to organizing a thermal insulation layer in order to avoid cold bridges, the appearance of condensation and wetting of the insulation, as a result, fungi, mold, and freezing.
In the article we will give step by step instructions, how to properly insulate an attic from the inside with your own hands, we will analyze what materials are best to use, how to calculate the thickness of thermal insulation.
Insulation scheme attic floor
Insulating the attic floor is a whole set of measures to ensure that the room is comfortable for living: it does not heat up in the summer and does not get cold in the winter, and the relative humidity does not exceed the norm. Each part of the attic floor: floor, ceiling, slopes, fronts, is insulated using its own technology. It is important to follow a few basic rules here:
We offer useful tips on how to insulate an attic with your own hands; video instructions will help you avoid mistakes when thermally insulating the floor under the roof.
Insulating an attic from the inside with your own hands takes place in several stages: floor, ceiling, if there is one, slopes, fronts. Thermal insulation of everyone structural element the attic floor has its own technological features, then we will look in detail at the nuances of insulation.
The photo shows an example of how to properly insulate an attic floor
The floor on the attic floor is essentially interfloor covering, separating the lower rooms from the roof. Accordingly, here are the main requirements for thermal insulation materials: lightweight, but with effective heat conservation, vapor permeable, with good sound insulation.
Floor insulation depends on the design features of the ceiling. If it is a concrete slab, it is advisable to organize a heated floor and perform a screed. Don't forget to stick damper tape around the perimeter to allow natural expansion of the materials. If the screed is more than 20 mm, it must be reinforced.
But more often, logs are installed here, so floor insulation is carried out according to the following algorithm:
Insulation of the floor along the joists on the attic floor
It is extremely rare to have a ceiling in an attic floor, but if you are faced with just such a design option, then it also needs to be insulated. To begin with, a vapor barrier film is stretched at a height of 150-250 mm higher than you plan to make the ceiling. Next, you need to assemble a sheathing from bars or a galvanized metal profile, optimal distance between the longitudinal profile is 500-600 mm, while the transverse one is attached every 400-500 mm. If there are cross beams under the ceiling on the attic floor, then the insulation material can be placed on them.
Insulation is placed inside the sheathing; soft slabs that are light in weight, for example, mineral wool, are relevant here. It must be pushed between the sheathing, leveled, and the joints between the slabs adjusted tightly. A vapor barrier membrane is placed on top of the frame, which will protect the insulation from moisture from the room. After which the ceiling is hemmed with sheet material: plasterboard, OSB, chipboard, plywood or lining, blockhouse, timber, the choice depends on the style of the room.
Lathing of the ceiling, slope and gable of the attic floor for subsequent insulation
The walls of the attic floor can be divided into side walls (a small flat area that turns into a roof slope) and gables - end load-bearing structures. The order of the thermal insulation layers does not change here, but the insulation has its own installation features. At the first stage, waterproofing is filled in; it is better to fasten it using bars 25-50 mm thick in order to leave a technological gap between the walls (roof) and the insulation.
Good to know: If the roof of the attic floor is made of wavy material, then a ventilation gap of 25 mm is sufficient; if it is made of smooth material, then it is recommended to leave a gap of 50 mm.Sheets of insulation are laid on top of the bars so that the attic is not cold; it is recommended to use 2 layers of thermal insulation, each 100 mm thick. It is advisable to insulate floor walls using a combined method. The first row of insulation is placed tightly between the rafters or gable beams. Cut the sheets to size and push them in.
We also leave a ventilation gap between the layers of insulation; if the rafters are thinner, then additional bars are placed on them, and then we put a second layer on them. The sheets should fit tightly to each other; it is advisable to seal the gaps on top with tape. Next, we cover everything with a vapor barrier; for insulating the walls of the attic floor, a foil membrane is optimal, with the metallized side facing the room. We nail it with a stapler, seal the joints and you can sheathe the attic floor with the finishing touches.
Insulation of the gable of the attic floor
If you choose which insulation is best for an attic, then you need to provide several criteria at once: resistance to physical, mechanical and chemical influences, environmental friendliness, fire safety, weight of the material, heat capacity, installation method and financial side question. Let's consider the advantages and disadvantages of several popular materials for insulating the attic floor.
Materials for insulating the floor under a sloping roof
Important: For high-quality insulation of the attic floor, it is recommended to use insulation materials with a thermal conductivity coefficient below 0.05 W/m*K.Do-it-yourself attic insulation, video, what are the advantages of thermal insulation with rockwool material.
Insulating an attic with polystyrene foam is inexpensive and easy to install, which is why the material is very popular for thermal insulation. Disadvantages include low vapor permeability and flammability. Over time, when the rafter system dries out, the insulation of the attic with polystyrene foam is reduced to nothing; reviews indicate that gaps appear between the sheets and beams, and as a result, drafts.
Watch the video on how to insulate an attic with polystyrene foam, the video demonstrates step by step process installation of thermal insulation.
Expanded polystyrene is a more advanced material compared to polystyrene foam, the boards are easy to work with, are not afraid of moisture and rodents, the joints between the sheets are very tight, which avoids cold bridges. But extruded polystyrene foam, like polystyrene foam, is deformed when exposed to ultraviolet radiation, and is flammable, so it is not recommended for them to insulate the attic floors of a wooden house.
The video explains in detail how to insulate an attic; the video will help you perform thermal insulation correctly.
If you ask specialists what is the best way to insulate an attic from the inside, many of them will recommend spraying polyurethane foam. Of course, you can’t do this without special technology and equipment, but the thermal insulation is strong, durable, and without joints. This is a kind of thermos that provides a comfortable indoor microclimate. Insulating the attic with polyurethane foam, reviews of the physical and mechanical properties of which are the best, also has significant drawbacks; such a cake is afraid of esters and high-temperature acids.
Watch the work of specialists on how to insulate an attic; the video demonstrates in detail the spraying method.
Insulation of the attic floor with stone (basalt) mineral wool meets all standards of proper thermal insulation. Mineral wool is moisture resistant, non-flammable, and has high sound insulation characteristics, which is especially important if the roof is made of a “noisy” material. The material is elastic, easy to install, expands, fills voids between beams and holds well even on sloped areas.
Ecowool is cellulose processed in a special way, it is environmentally friendly, has high heat and sound insulation, is vapor permeable, resistant to dampness, fireproof, it does not harbor harmful microorganisms - an ideal option for insulating the attic floor. The material is crushed and looks like flakes, which are applied to the surface using special equipment, which makes it difficult to install it yourself. Insulating the attic with ecowool is a seamless technology that allows you to make high-quality thermal insulation and preserve comfortable temperature even in an unheated attic floor.
Of course, 100-200 mm of insulation is the recommended layer thickness. The real one may differ; it is recommended to do the calculation for each region and directly depends on the type of load-bearing walls and the thermal conductivity of the insulation. Proper insulation significantly reduces energy costs when heating and air conditioning a home.
Thanks to the presence of an attic room in the building, the owner has excellent opportunities. There are at least two reasons. The first is to give a stylish appearance to the whole house. Secondly, it helps to make the living space much larger. The attic can become a full-fledged living space. Pay special attention to the floor when arranging the attic space. It must be durable and reliable. To do this, you must follow certain rules and requirements when arranging the floor.
To insulate the floor in your attic, you must first become familiar with the features of this room. Insulating the floor inside the attic is one of the labor-intensive processes. In addition to thermal insulation, vapor barrier and waterproofing under the roof are important. More about this below.
Arrangement
Attic Let's consider the main features that the attic has:
The under-roof space has these features.
It is necessary to take into account the design features listed above. Don’t forget, in order to climb to the attic floor, you need to install a hatch that will be connected to the stairs. Its location should be determined. Let's consider the procedure for arranging the lower plane. Insulating your attic floor includes the following steps:
Bottom plane in attic room is the ceiling for the floor below. Therefore, the attic floor should become the basis of comfort and safety for everyone living in the house. The preparatory procedures have been discussed above. Let's look at how to insulate an attic.
Insulating the floor of your cold attic involves using quality materials. When choosing a thermal insulator for the lower plane, it is necessary to avoid unnecessary load on the building structure, namely on the ceiling and floor beams.
Today on construction market You can find many insulation products. They all have different technical characteristics. But you must definitely understand which of this huge assortment is the most optimal material for the attic. According to the recommendations of professionals, the optimal thermal insulation materials are:
Styrofoam It is easiest to use during the installation procedure. Main advantages:
But there are still drawbacks. The product has a low level of vapor permeability. Not particularly durable. Attractive to rodents.
Polystyrene This modern generation insulation products. Pros:
The disadvantages include the high price on the construction market and poor vapor permeability characteristics.
Minvata It is the most the best option for thermal insulation of the lower plane of the attic space. Advantages of use:
The high price and the presence of joints during installation are the main disadvantages of mineral wool. To eliminate the resulting joints and cracks, specially designed mastics are used.
Expanded clay The material is also distinguished by its thermal insulation efficiency. Advantages:
When choosing of this material shrinkage must be taken into account.
The classic material for thermal insulation is glass wool.
Glass wool But when compared with modern thermal insulation products, glass wool is inferior in terms of characteristics. A similar material to glass wool is basalt wool.
Basalt wool They have almost the same technical characteristics. Benefits basalt wool are:
Disadvantages of this insulation product:
Today you can choose absolutely any material that is needed. Of course, you need to take into account your financial capabilities, but it is important to remember the service life of the material. Otherwise, you will have to overpay in the future. Don't skimp on attic insulation.
Scheme During the procedure, it is necessary to avoid mistakes that may lead to harmful consequences. If the installation process is not performed correctly, the ceiling on the floor below may suffer.
Let's look at each stage of installation thermal insulation material separately. Stages of attic floor insulation:
Since the work is carried out using wood, such material needs fireproof and antiseptic treatment. Thanks to this, you will protect the surface from rotting due to moisture. And the level of fire safety will be increased.
Attention! Between the vapor barrier and waterproofing layers a layer of 50 mm should be created. Thanks to this, the service life of the lower plane will be increased.
Factors that must be taken into account when choosing a product: weight, vapor permeability, sound insulation level.
Laminate To spend correct vapor barrier, use rolls of a specially designed product. Rolls must be laid tightly over the entire surface area. The seams are glued together using specially designed waterproofing tape. To ensure a high level of reliability, it is better to create a vapor barrier consisting of two layers.
Installation of thermal insulation material should not cause any difficulties. Mineral wool or polystyrene foam is placed in the cavity between the beams. If expanded clay is used as a thermal insulation material, then the vapor barrier is simply backfilled on top of the product. Next, the insulation layer is covered with another layer of vapor barrier.
In general, the most difficult stage in the entire thermal insulation process is the floor screed. For this procedure, a mesh or reinforced structure must be used. The mesh is laid on top of the beams. Constantly check the evenness of the screed. An uneven screed may have negative consequences in the future.
The process of arranging the lower plane of the attic depends on the product from which the floors are made. The overlap between rooms can be wooden beams. They can be made of reinforced concrete.
When insulating, not only the selected materials play an important role, but also safety precautions. Having studied the detailed procedure for thermal insulation of the floor in the attic, you can do all the work yourself with your own hands. But the result will not be of such quality; it is better to use the services of specialists. An insulated attic is the key to comfort and coziness.
Sometimes the time comes when it becomes problematic to fit within the living area of the lower floors, then the owners of private houses are engaged in arranging the attic space.
However, at the initial stage, everyone should know how to make a floor in the attic, because in most cases there are open floor beams at the top.
The attic floor is a room cut off at the top by a rafter system. In this case, the pediments most often have the shape of a trapezoid, since side walls are arranged on two sides. Nowadays, SNiP interprets this structural part of the building as a floor in the attic space formed by the inclined surfaces of the roof.
Before you understand which floor to make, you need to familiarize yourself with some distinctive features of this room. Currently observed a large number of constructive solutions upper structures that help revitalize the appearance of residential buildings. Therefore, it doesn’t hurt to know the features of attic floors.
Note!
Having studied the listed features, you can understand how to make floors in the attic without serious mistakes, because if the bottom covering is installed incorrectly, the operation of the room will be difficult.
The use of attics as residential premises has its advantages, which are quite important for individual developers. Before carrying out floor installation work with your own hands, it is worth considering them. Below is a list of the most basic benefits that encourage action.
Addition!
Having familiarized yourself with the basic information about the advantages and features of such a space, you can move on to learning how to make floors in the attic yourself.
To move freely in the attic when repair work, it is necessary to prepare the lower base, however flooring It makes more sense to lay it after finishing the remaining surfaces. Although the room below is not in contact with the street, it will still be necessary to install insulating materials.
Unlike the first floor, in the attic a passage is made at the very bottom, which is later connected by a staircase. Therefore, in any case, you need to find out how to make a hatch in the floor.
However, at the initial stage you need to decide on its location, leaving enough space for it.
Attention!
The above provides information not only on how to properly make a floor in the attic, but also to create a lower base in other structures and areas of the house.
For example, in a sauna or on a terrace, with the exception of some details.
Any instructions must provide rules for working with the tools used, otherwise a novice builder may suffer serious damage.
In addition, the price of modern equipment is quite high, so its damage affects the family budget.
Important!
Having learned in detail how to make a floor yourself, every second developer begins work, forgetting about safety precautions.
However, this should not be neglected, because a frivolous approach leads to negative consequences.
Having examined in detail the process of creating a floor in an attic room, you can proceed directly to the practical part.
