Sooner or later, any person is faced with toilet repair in one way or another. You can entrust this work to professionals, or you can save money and do it yourself. In this article we will analyze in detail what work is ahead and in what sequence it is best to carry it out.
Any enterprise begins with a comparison of desires and capabilities. If finances allow, then the boundaries of desires are very conditional. We will talk about decent toilet repairs with our own hands on a minimal budget. This is the foundation of the further story.
Planning the process itself has a clear sequence:
Point zero should be set to “Design development and procurement of materials.” But this can create confusion. Therefore, describing each stage, we will justify the advantages of certain materials. For objectivity, we took the cost of all finishing elements from YandexMarket.
Complete renovation, declares absolute cleaning of the room. There should be nothing left in it except the pipes of the common riser.
The sequence must also be observed. First, they knock off the tiles from the walls. Depending on the quality of the connection, this can be done with a hammer drill in the “chisel” mode or with a simple ax, using it as a spatula. They go along bare walls with a drill with a brush attachment.
Explanation: new tiles It is quite possible to lay it on the old coating. But in this case, it will subtract 3-5 cm from the height of the room.
Only after this the whitewash is washed off from the ceiling. At the same time, wash away dust from the walls and floor.
The plumbing is dismantled last. To do this, turn off the water supply to the toilet, unscrew the fastener and remove the toilet drain outlet from the sewer pipe. If the toilet is very old, then you will have to break it out, since the drain has been sealed cement mortar. The entrance to the sewer pipe is cleared of pieces of sanitary ware and cement.
Before finishing work, put a plastic bag over the hole and tie it with a rope.
Explanation: Dismantling the toilet allows you to create a solid floor covering, without painstaking cutting and fitting of tiles. In addition, the toilet can be easily replaced later.
Replacing a water riser yourself is never done in practice. The reason is the need to shut off the water supply in the entire riser, and this is the prerogative of plumbers from the service organization. But more important factor– time and guarantees.
Replacing riser pipes with your own hands without professional skills will require leaving residents without water for the whole day. It is unlikely that your neighbors will tolerate this. Specialists will cope with this task much faster.
The quality of the work performed has a deeper implication. If the riser is replaced by specialists from the housing office, upon an official request, then in the event of leaks or any emergency, the responsibility will fall on the installers. Otherwise, you will have to pay for repairs to flooded apartments.
But you have the right to choose the material for the riser within your apartment. The most affordable and high-quality material is polypropylene pipes fiberglass reinforced. They are suitable for both hot and cold water.
You can do the wiring around the apartment yourself. The best material for this purpose is corrugated stainless steel. The price is more expensive than polypropylene pipes, but then you get:
The cost of 1 meter of corrugated stainless steel pipe ø 16 mm is 92 rubles. An important condition for long-term service is the use of brass fittings.
Electrical wiring will require modernization if you want to install several lamps in a miniature toilet. And this happens extremely rarely.
A very good solution would be to install a tubular energy-saving lamp above the entrance, parallel to the doorway. In this situation, you don’t have to touch the wiring.
As a result of this point, all surfaces should be smooth and even. The easiest thing to do is with the floor. For leveling you will need to use a quick-drying self-leveling screed. For 1m2, with a thickness of 1 cm, 13-14 kg of dry mixture will be required. For a toilet, 1 bag is enough, weighing 25 kg and costing 400 rubles.
The floors are first primed. We recommend immediately priming the walls and ceiling.. The mixture is diluted according to the instructions on the package and poured. To avoid making too thick a layer, spread it out a little with a spatula. The complete hardening process takes 24 hours.
Leveling the walls in the toilet is a relative task. The fact is that in such a small area, littered walls are extremely rare. Therefore, if the walls of the toilet are concrete, then a primer is enough, and if they are plastered brick, then putty will be required.
For putty you need:
The setting time for cement-based putty is ≈ 90-120 minutes. Dilute 2-3 kg of dry mixture, following the instructions on the package. Then, using a short spatula, apply the long one to the shoulder blade. a small amount of solution. Applying the working tool at an angle of 20-30˚, spread the mixture along the wall from bottom to top. Consistently apply new portions of the mixture.
By adjusting the angle between the wall and the spatula, you can achieve different effects. At sharp corner, cracks and depressions are filled, at an angle close to straight, the applied composition is leveled.
Excess material spreading to the edges of the tool is collected with a short spatula and applied again to a long spatula.
Don't try to achieve a perfectly smooth surface in one pass. After treating all the walls and waiting 3-4 hours, you can go over the problem areas again.
Pay special attention to the corners. Sagging and rounding are not allowed on them. Achieve in all corners geometric accuracy don't, they will close finishing materials, but the excess should be removed.
After a day, the walls can be sanded to obtain a high-quality coating for further work.
The final chord of this stage is priming the prepared walls and floor.
There is almost always a slab on the ceiling, so other than priming, no preparation is required.
The specifics of the premises limit the choice flooring. Of all the options, only self-leveling floors and tiles are suitable for the toilet.
Self-leveling floors look attractive, but they have two huge drawbacks:
If you use them, it is better in a place where they are visible. In the toilet, they will be hidden. So, there is only one option left - tiles.
Considering that the toilet has been dismantled and the base has been prepared, laying tiles in the toilet with your own hands is extremely easy process. Choosing tiles is a very sensitive issue. We have no right to advise on color and design, but we will help you figure it out with sizes.
The dimensions of a standard toilet in an apartment are 0.8 by 1.2 m. For ease of work, try to find a tile that fits into these dimensions without waste, for example 40 x 30 or 40 x 40. In this case, you will need to glue only 8 or 6 elements . Please note that the smaller the number of elements in the mosaic, the easier the work is. And for the price, this choice will be quite acceptable. For example, from the manufacturer CERROL, in the Nero (Black) series, 1 m 2 tiles measuring 40x40 will cost 1,304 rubles. Enough for the toilet and there will be practically no waste left.
There is another option for lightly finishing the floor in the toilet - mosaic tiles. These are ceramic tiles measuring 2 x 2 cm, glued to a backing. By choosing the size of the sheet, you can cover the entire area in 2-3 steps. But this option, subsequently, will not manifest itself in the best way.
The fact is that small elements of the floor covering visually reduce the size of the toilet.
Tile adhesive "Unis 2000" in a 5-kilogram package will help you cope with the task perfectly. Its price is 130 rubles. Consumption ≈ 4-5 kg/m2.
You will also need:
The thickness of the crosses is no more than 1-2 mm. IN small room, large seams will not look aesthetically pleasing.
Laying method tiles- straight. The toilet is too small a room to put a beautiful pattern in it.
Work progress:
Dissolve the glue according to the instructions on the package. If you followed our advice and chose large tiles, then knead the whole package. While the mixture is swelling (4-5 minutes), adjust the laser level so that the horizontal beam is projected at a height of 15-20 cm from the floor. TIP: it is most convenient to place it on a horizontal sewer pipe. Everyone has laser levels The head is self-leveling, so even if there is a slight tilt, the beam will still show the true horizon.
The floors are being swept. Apply the finished adhesive onto the tiles with a notched trowel. Please note: the glue must be spread over the entire surface. This will not only increase the adhesion area, but will also allow you to drill holes for attaching the toilet in the future without fear of splitting the tiles. The thickness of the adhesive composition should not exceed the thickness of the tile! Place the tile in place. It is better to start gluing from the wall opposite to the entrance. Move the glued element with an amplitude of 2-3 mm.
By successively applying a square to each corner of the tile, compare the level at which the laser beam is projected. If necessary, straighten the tiles.
Glue the second tile in the same way, level it and then insert the crosses. There should be 2 crosses on each side of the tile.
With proper planning, you will only need to trim the tiles once to get around the riser pipes. To do this, it is best to use a grinder with a cutting disc. ATTENTION: the disk must be specialized, without radial cuts.
Use a tape measure to measure the distance you need to cut. Most likely, this will be a corner sector. Set aside the resulting dimensions for front surface tiles
Tip: stick on tiles masking tape, it is more convenient to mark on it.
Place the tiles on a flat surface and secure. When working with an angle grinder, be sure to use glasses!
You need to cut through, so there should be a soft material (wooden block or two pieces of gypsum board).
The cut edge can be sanded.
If there are gaps of 1-2 cm, then distribute them evenly so that they fall between the tiles and the wall. Subsequently, they will be covered with wall finishing materials.
According to the diagram outlined, all floor tiles are glued. After a day, you can walk on it and at this time they begin to grout the joints. Optimal material for filling gaps between tiles - silicone sealant. It is easy to work with, and after drying it produces an elastic seam with impeccable hygienic characteristics.
To work, you only need white silicone sealant in a tube and a lint-free cloth.
Cut off the spout of the tube so that the thickness of the silicone that comes out is minimal. Insert the container of sealant into the gun and apply even pressure along one of the seams. Excess silicone protruding outward is removed with a slightly moistened cloth. The gaps must be filled flush.
The silicone should cure within 3-5 hours. Then you should lay cardboard on the floor, and you can start finishing the walls.
Wall decoration is possible in two materials: ceramic tile or wall panels. In principle, we do not consider painting and whitewashing, and other materials have low moisture resistance.
Tile traditional version specifically for the toilet. It looks presentable and lasts a very long time. But there are points in which it is inferior to plastic panels. In particular, :
There is one more nuance that can influence your choice. In the toilet, you will need to close the water riser. If you use wall panels, you can cover this unsightly need without much difficulty and preliminary preparation.
In addition to everything, you can improve the appearance if you choose wall panels 40 cm wide, just the size of the tiles. All finishing will take on the appearance of a finished composition.
For fixation wall panels Liquid nails are required. We recommend using “Moment Installation”.
To work you will need:
The panels begin to be glued from the place where they fit entirely, without cutting to width. Measure the height and set aside required size on the panel. When sawing off excess metal with a hacksaw, make sure that the lamella does not bend or break at the very end of the cut.
The glue is applied in continuous strips along the entire length, the diameter of the emerging roller is 4-5 mm. There should be a distance of 5-7 cm between each strip of glue. Immediately place the panel in place and move it slightly from side to side to spread the glue. But immediately remove this panel and give it a shutter speed of 3-4 minutes. This is required to adhesive composition interacted with oxygen in the air.
After curing, the panel is glued. To control the vertical position of each plank, use a plumb line. Press the lamella firmly for 30-40 seconds and move it a little
All panels are fixed in a similar way. But to bypass the water riser, proceed as follows.
Explanation: Between the front and back sides of each plank there are stiffening ribs. If you cut reverse side panels along the entire length along these edges, then it can be bent and pasted over the rounded areas.
In the place where the riser is located, on the back side of the panel the back sheet is cut off along with the stiffening ribs. Additionally, the lower part where the sewer pipe exits is trimmed. To make a neat exit water pipes, they are unscrewed from the shut-off valve on the riser. And a hole is made on the panel according to the size of the outlet itself. Such an operation can only be carried out if you work with wide panels!
A horizontal sewer pipe can be covered with scraps of wall panels, leaving a hole for connecting the toilet.
This option for finishing the walls in the toilet will avoid the use of end strips. After all, the edges near the entrance will be covered with a door casing.
Instead of a plinth, glue a strip. In appearance, it is the same, only narrow.
TO decorative finishing ceiling in the toilet, when the walls and floor are already decorated, you should proceed as the final chord that will complete the entire composition. If there is a big one on the floor dark tiles, and there are dark panels on the walls, then the ceiling should be white and gold.
There are two options, this slatted ceiling or PVC ceiling panels. In terms of appearance of the finished coating, they will practically not differ. But the slatted ceiling will “steal” at least 7 cm from the height, due to the fastening system. And its installation will take an order of magnitude longer.
With PVC ceiling panels, the whole process will take 40-50 minutes.
Considering that they will look the same, a sane person will choose PVC ceiling panels.
Using the example of two-section strips with gold, produced by Olympia, we will describe the installation process. The width of the lamellas is 24 cm, the length is 3 m. The price of one plank is 180 rubles. 2 panels are needed for the ceiling in the toilet.
They are glued to the same “Moment Montage”. The lamellas are adjusted in length and glued, starting from the entrance, according to the technology described above.
Around the box covering the riser, the panels are cut with a construction knife.
Installation of plumbing consists of two stages:
The option with a wall-hung toilet is not even accepted for consideration. Its miniature size is only marketing ploy to increase sales and create another group of products. After all, the fastening system and tank wall hung toilet, will require you to allocate at least 20 cm from behind. In other words, the dimensions of the toilet will actually become 0.8 x 1 m.
Therefore, we will install a regular toilet. To attach it, you will need to drill 2 or 4 holes in the floor. In this case, you first need to drill the tiles. This can be done with a diamond-coated tubular drill by switching the hammer drill to the “drilling” mode.
Having passed the tiles, switch the hammer drill to the “chipping” mode and place the drill.
Dowels are driven into the holes using a mallet and the toilet is secured through plastic washers.
TIP: Apply silicone caulk to the base of the toilet. After pressing it to the floor, excess silicone will be squeezed out and must be removed immediately. But such sealing will not allow water to penetrate under the toilet itself during wet cleaning.
To connect the toilet drain hole to the entrance to the sewer pipe, a corrugated adapter is used.
Water supply hoses to the tank, in modern models, have a sealing rubber gasket and do not require winding. Additionally, plastic lugs are integrated into the hose heads, allowing you to do without an adjustable wrench.
Step-by-step instructions for renovating a bathroom and toilet.
In the opinion of most finishers, you should definitely start renovating an apartment from the bathroom. I’ll explain why: this is the dirtiest and dustiest part of the renovation, requiring not only the dismantling of old tiles, plumbing fixtures, doors, and sometimes the entire bathroom walls.
So, the first thing we do is we can bear it old plumbing: bath, sink, toilet... In short, everything that stands, weighs, lies.
Next stage: Using a grinder, we cut off all the old pipes to the tap located on the riser.
Using a hammer drill we knock down old tiles .
It’s important that if the plaster under the tiles comes away from the wall, it’s booming...it also needs to be beaten off.
Dismantling old door with box.
Changing risers. Now we turn our attention to the plumbing and sewer risers. This is a very important part of the repair and they must be changed. After the renovation this will be very problematic. If you are not an expert in plumbing work, then to replace the risers, it is better to invite qualified craftsmen, but you can do the internal plumbing yourself.
Checking the hood. Let's move on to the hood. If we don’t want the bathroom to be stuffy, we need to check the operation of the hood. To do this, we bring a burning candle to the hood and evaluate its performance by the flame: the better the hood works, the more intense the flame is sucked into the chimney pipe. If the hood is not working correctly, we either clean it or install a fan in it.
Prime the walls. At the next stage, I suggest cleaning up thoroughly: take a broom and sweep out all the garbage and dust from the bathroom. After all the dust has settled, we take the primer deep penetration and prime the walls.
We install beacons. After the primer has completely dried, we install beacons for further plastering of the bathroom. Beacons must be installed strictly level, maintaining the plane of the wall and maintaining angles of 90 degrees.
Plastering the walls. Have you installed beacons? Let's start plastering. To do this we need a rule, a spatula, a drill and a mixer attachment for the drill. Bathrooms are usually plastered dry gypsum mixtures, fortunately there is no shortage of them on the market. I usually use Rotband plaster. Take a 12 liter bucket and prepare a solution in it as written in the instructions. Using a spatula, spread the mortar between the beacons of one wall, 50 centimeters from the floor. Then we take the rule, press it against the beacons and pull it up - it turns out Smooth surface. We remove unnecessary things from the rule. And so on all the walls - from floor to ceiling. If there are any small holes left, it doesn’t matter – we then smooth them out with a spatula. If everything is smooth and beautiful, it means you have completed the task.
Leveling the floors. The next stage is the floors. We level them using self-leveling floors. We dilute the mixture as stated in the instructions, maybe even a little thinner, and spread it all over the floor using a needle roller. After drying, the walls and floors are checked for level, just in case, and any unevenness is corrected.
Making a detailed plan of the bathroom. At the next stage we must decide on the design of the bathroom, where? How? and at what altitude? There will be a bathtub, sink, mirror, washing machine (if any), towel dryer, toilet, and a box covering the risers. To do this, we take a tape measure and measure our bathroom - after plastering, the dimensions have changed. Then we take a pencil and a sheet of paper and sketch everything out. Let's call it a bathroom plan. In order for the plan to be accurate, at this stage, we need to buy all the bathroom objects. It is important to remember: if the bathtub is tied to size (I mean that your bathtub is not half the size of a football field, but for example 1m.70cm by 1m.50cm), then the bathtub needs to be bought as long as possible. And if your size is 1m.68cm. – you need to buy a bathtub 1m.70cm. Then 2cm. Let's fix it. This seems to have been sorted out.
Video - turnkey bathtub renovation
We make (sketch) detailed markings of the water supply and sewerage systems. If everything is purchased, then we continue. We assemble a bathtub in a free room. We put it on its legs and level it. As a rule, the height of the legs of most bathtubs is adjustable - we adjust the height to suit ourselves. We measure the height and width of the bath. We transfer the dimensions to the wall in the bathroom. All the same - we do the same with the sink and washing machine. The next thing we do is mark on the walls how we will have water supply and sewerage. The bathroom faucet is usually installed in the center 10 cm above the bathtub - this also needs to be sketched on the walls. The distance between the pipes going to the bathroom faucet should be 15cm. We mark the water supply for the sink based on the structural features of the cabinet and the length of the flexible hoses of the mixer. Under washing machine We mark only one pipe – the cold one. We sketch the sewer pipes at an angle towards the riser (so that there is a drain). If a slight slope can be made under the bathtub and sink, then the outlet under the washing machine should be at a distance of 50 cm. from the floor.
We make (sketch) detailed markings of the electrical wiring. The next thing we do is decide on the electrical wiring. How many outlets will we have, and where - if there is a washing machine, then next to it. Use an electric razor next to the mirror. If you have a backlit mirror, you will need to run a wire under it (decide at what height). If there is a fan, we will take it out under it.
Making grooves. When we have completely decided and sketched, we take a hammer drill and punch it according to the plan. Next, we clean up and prime the grooves.
We install water supply and sewerage. At the next stage, we install a water supply system (comb) and a sewer system. Don't forget to also install water meters and filters. Since our water supply is hidden in the walls, use better pipes made of polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes.
We install a heated towel rail. At the next stage, we invite craftsmen or install the heated towel rail ourselves. Pipes are also mounted into the wall.
We mount the box. So we are left with no closed risers, and we are fixing it. We assemble a box from metal profile and cover it with plasterboard. Drywall must be moisture resistant - it Green colour. Also, do not forget about the technical hatch, it will be needed to have access to the taps and the meter. Then we install a perforated corner on the corner of our box and plaster the entire box.
Prime the walls and floor. As a result, what we see is a completely plastered bathroom, without visible pipes and wires. Once again we look at everything in detail for any irregularities. If there are any, we fix them using a spatula and sandpaper.
Laying out the floor. Now we lay out the floor with tiles. For this we will need a drill, a mixer, a bucket, a regular spatula, a notched trowel, a professional tile cutter, crosses (1.5-2mm).
We lay out the tiles so that all the cut edges are under the bathtub and sink. This way we will only have the whole tile visible. Don't forget to use a level and insert crosses.
We lay out 1 row of wall tiles under the bathroom from the floor. Then you will need to lay 1 row of wall tiles under the bathroom - for waterproofing. If you use small tiles, then 30 centimeters from the floor will be enough.
Grinding the tiles under the bathroom (wall, floor).
Installing a bath. It's time for a bath. We bring the bath in, set it strictly according to the level and length and width. We open the bathtub.
Laying wall tiles. Lay out wall tiles. We start right from the bathtub, from the most visible corner, and move in a circle. You need to drill slats from the sides of the bath so that all the tiles are level. Finish the top, remove the slats and add the bottom. Let the tile dry and remove the crosses.
Cleaning the seams.
We rub the seams.
We mount the ceiling. Now we need to decide what we will do with the ceiling. There are several options: putty and paint, hanging from plastic panels, tension. They are all good in their own way, it's up to you to choose.
We install the door. It's time to install the missing plumbing fixtures - sink, washing machine, toilet, faucets, bath screen.
All that remains is to hang the mirror, install sockets and the bath is ready.
This order of work will not allow you to make the most common mistakes, when the quality of the work performed suffers, and sometimes leads to redoing.
Happy renovation!
Where to start renovating a toilet is a question that interests everyone who is renovating their apartment. Despite the fact that the area of this room is quite small, a huge number of problems arise that we will now try to solve together with you.
Repairs must begin with the development of a future project. You must have a clear idea of how the room should ultimately look. Think through the entire design in advance and calculate the preliminary cost of all materials, so as not to be surprised later. Special attention it is worth paying attention to the choice of materials for finishing walls, floors and ceilings, as well as the selection of all necessary new plumbing.
Of course, you shouldn’t spend too much money on renovating the toilet and making it somehow chic, but everything should look beautiful and aesthetically pleasing in the end; not only your family members, but also all your guests will visit this room.
Toilet dismantling
If you plan to change the bathroom premises yourself, then you should follow the following sequence toilet repair:
Let's start with proper preparation premises. This means that it is necessary to get rid of all unnecessary items and dismantle the already used toilet. First, of course, you need to remember to turn off the water so as not to flood your neighbors.
When the room remains empty, it is necessary to clean all surfaces and get rid of the previous finish. Despite all the difficulties, clean it very carefully; you should not rush anywhere. Otherwise, a number of difficulties will arise later that will be much more difficult to correct.
If there was previously wallpaper on the walls in the room, you can remove it with a spatula. To do this, first of all, try to moisten the surface of the wallpaper with a spray of water and let it stand for a while. After a while, the wallpaper will get wet, and you can easily remove it with a regular construction spatula. The tiles must be removed using a hammer drill.
If during the repair process you want to install a new front door, then on preparatory stage you need to get rid of the old one. Also remove the door frame along with the door.
If finances do not allow you to replace the old door, or it is simply still quite suitable for further use, then simply wrap it well with cling film or other plastic film. This is necessary to prevent the accumulation of dust and dirt that will form during the repair process.
In the same way, get rid of the trim on the ceiling, and then remove the chandelier or shade. It is enough to leave only the light bulb in the socket.
If there is such a need, then at the next stage you should replace cast iron pipes for new ones, preferably plastic ones. This will allow you to avoid frequent contamination and blockages. sewer pipes, which leads to poor water flow. The advantage of PVC pipes is that they are quite easy to install, do not rust, do not accumulate all kinds of dirt on the walls, and their price is not too high.
So now you know where to start. Now that all the preparatory work has been completed, you can begin replacing the plumbing. A toilet is an irreplaceable thing in every apartment, so its choice must be approached with all responsibility.
Installation of new plumbing
Today there are a huge number of models on sale, they can be both compact and large. Choose them based on personal preference depending on the size of your room. It is advisable that the toilet be combined with common interior, harmonized in color. When purchasing this product, pay attention to the presence of all parts, the absence of various irregularities or nicks, as well as high-quality packaging so as not to break the rather fragile toilet during transportation.
Step-by-step instructions for installing a toilet:
Nice finishes in the toilet
The first step is to decide on all the materials that will be used for finishing. You need to start with the floor covering, and then start lining the walls and ceiling. To finish the floor, it is best to use tiles, which are quite durable, practical, resistant to moisture and dampness, and there are no difficulties in maintenance, just wipe with a damp cloth. To keep the surface warm, you can install a heated floor system under the cladding. This will also provide additional heating to the entire room.
For finishing wall surfaces the best option today are plastic panels. The advantages of this material are ease of installation, easy maintenance, resistance to moisture and dampness, relatively low price. If you use such panels for wall decoration, it is better to choose glossy ones, this will further expand the space in a rather small room.
The first step is to make a frame from profiles. Then, install plastic panels into the existing grooves on the installed profile. Once you have tiled all surfaces, begin installing new plumbing fixtures. Then install new doors if necessary, and complement the interior with additional decorative elements.
Pipes in a toilet don't look very neat, so if possible you should hide them. Plastic is perfect for this purpose. A box made of this material will fit perfectly into the interior of the room, and it is also quite simple to make.
The profile frame will hide the pipes
Apply markings to the surface of the wall on which you will attach the profile. Then make a frame from profiles in order to secure the plastic panels. This is done using ordinary self-tapping screws. This task is simple and does not require any specific skills, so you can make the box yourself, thereby giving the toilet a beautiful appearance.
Of course, each of us would like to see all the rooms in our apartments spacious and cozy. However, most bathrooms still have quite limited space. In order to at least visually enlarge it, there are some secrets.
First of all, the decoration of the walls and ceiling should be light. You can use a little trick - cover the bottom of the wall with light-colored tiles to highlight clear edges, which will add originality, and also use a border. The entire remaining wall space can either be plastered or covered with light wallpaper.
To decorate the floor, also use only bright hues. You can also save space by using a wall-hung toilet. With all this, do not forget that all elements must be harmoniously combined with each other.
There is another way to save space. To do this, you should combine the bathroom with the toilet. Of course, this process is quite labor-intensive, as it requires the demolition of the partition, numerous construction work and registration of all necessary documents. Important condition, which must be taken into account - the wall that you are going to demolish should not be load-bearing. If you nevertheless decide on this process, then first completely think through the entire project, decide where you will place all the plumbing and how you will hide the sewer pipes.
All furniture that will be present must be compact and functional. IN Lately Wall cabinets with mirrors are very popular, as well as a sink with a built-in cabinet, where you can store all the necessary items. It is advisable to use furniture that will be attached to the wall, rather than taking up space on the floor.
Using all of the above tips, you can easily renovate your toilet yourself.
Have you decided to renovate the toilet in your apartment yourself? Start with an estimate. Decide what exactly you want to change and estimate how much it will cost. If your desires coincide with your financial capabilities, feel free to get to work!
Before starting repairs, it is necessary to remove the old plumbing from the premises As a rule, people think about renovating a toilet several years, or even decades after they start living in an apartment. This means that it makes sense to update absolutely all positions:
Before making repairs you must:
The most reliable option is metal-plastic pipes. They have the longest service life If the pipes in your toilet are in “clamps”, if they are rusty, and the neighbors below periodically complain about wet spots on the ceiling, then there is a need to replace the old pipes. It is best to replace them with modern metal-plastic ones. Today they are the most reliable and have the longest service life compared to others.
It is better to install modern ball valves as a valve. They are also characterized by increased reliability.
To protect the water supply system from harmful impurities and debris, it is recommended to install a water purification filter in front of the valves.
Sewer pipes are usually hidden by a false panel. Don't forget to leave space for installing a plumbing hatch. Its optimal size is from 50 to 70 in length and width. But anyway the hatch must provide free access to all valves in the apartment, which are usually located in the toilet.
If it is not possible to lower the floor, then simply raise the threshold in the toilet a little - it will become a reliable obstacle to spilled water When repairing so-called “wet places”, which include the toilet, it is necessary be sure to provide waterproofing. It will reliably protect this room from leaks from the upper floor and keep water in the bathroom if something happens to your pipes.
To waterproof the ceiling you need:
After this, you can plaster, paint or install tension or suspended ceiling.
Things are somewhat more complicated with waterproofing the floor. In the toilet, as well as in the bathroom, the floor level should be several centimeters below the floor level of the entire apartment. This is necessary so that accidentally leaking water does not flood your apartment, but remains on the floor of the toilet. If it is not possible to lower the floor, then before waterproofing work, simply raise the threshold in the toilet a little - it will become a reliable obstacle to spilled water. The main thing in waterproofing the floor in the toilet is its absolute tightness, otherwise there is a risk of flooding the neighbors below.
The floors in the toilet must be level, and the waterproofing must rise along the walls at least 5-15 cm from the floor. The joints between walls and pipes with the ceiling and floor must be very carefully sealed to ensure that the toilet is watertight. Waterproofing layer in the toilet it is most often performed with special polymer mastics or roll materials based on bitumen. And the joints are sealed with sealants. They perfectly protect the toilet from humidity, temperature changes and have great shock resistance.
Finishing mixtures give the floor a finished look, making it perfectly even and smooth After laying the waterproofing layer, the floor in the toilet must be leveled. If the differences in the level of your floor do not exceed 1-2 cm, you can get by with a self-leveling mixture. To ensure everything works out right the first time, prepare a dry mixture (assuming that your self-leveling floor will be at least 1 cm high) you will need:
You should act strictly according to the instructions:
If the floor in the toilet is skewed by several centimeters, more labor-intensive work awaits you:
When leveling the floor, use dry mixtures based on non-shrink cement, to which are added fine fractions as an ideal filler.
When leveling floors, they are used starting mixtures and finishing mixtures. Starting mixtures intended for leveling the floor, finishing They give it a complete look, as they make the floors impeccably even and smooth.
There should be equal spaces between the tiles. Plastic crosses are used for this. Tiles are traditionally laid on the floor in the toilet. Not only does it look great, but it is also not afraid of moisture. Laying floor tiles starts from the entrance to the toilet in such a way that the incomplete, edged tiles that end the first row are the same size to the left and right of the entrance. After the first row is laid, you can move deeper into the toilet.
There should be equal spaces between the tiles. For this purpose, plastic crosses are used, most often 2 mm in size. To adhere the tiles to the floor, a special glue is used, which is applied in a thin layer with a spatula to the back of the tile or to the floor. To ensure the floor is perfectly level, use a level when laying.
Once the glue has dried, the joints are grouted. This is the final stage of laying floor tiles.
Plastic panels are the most economical option for wall decoration. They are easy to install and do not require additional maintenance If desired, the walls can also be covered with tiles. It is also placed on the prepared ones using a level. Laying tiles starts from the floor and, if necessary, only the top tiles are cut.
In the corners, the tiles are laid one on top of the other with a small gap, which will subsequently be grouted. You can also use plastic corners, which will give the tile finish a particularly attractive look.
In addition to tiles, the walls in the toilet can be finished with washable or vinyl wallpaper. Both of them tolerate cleaning well and do not allow moisture to pass through. The most economical option for toilet repair is plastic panels. They are easy and quick to install. But you need to be careful when working with them, as they can be quite fragile.
Fans healthy image in life they prefer to use wood as decoration. You can also use moisture-resistant ones for these purposes. These thin and light slabs often have an attractive decorative surface that imitates natural wood.
Suspended ceiling easy to install, allows you to hide pipes, wires or ventilation systems if necessary It largely depends on the height of the room and the size of the toilet. IN small toilet It is advisable to simply paint the ceiling with light paint. This will visually enlarge the room.
If the room is quite spacious, you can make a suspended ceiling with big amount light bulbs For this, siding of various shapes and sizes is used - strips, slabs, etc. The advantages of such a ceiling are its easy installation, low price and possibility if necessary, wires or ventilation system. The ceiling can also be covered with light wallpaper.
So, a little theory, preparation required quantity materials for finishing and several days of painstaking work - and an updated with my own hands the toilet is ready!
Summer is a time not only for vacations, but also for renovations. Everyone wants to put their apartment in order, but not everyone has enough money to do this: the crisis has passed only in words, but in reality “things are still there.” But we are Slavs, which means we’ll get out of it, because the saying “no need for inventions is cunning” really works.
Today we will look at the cheapest (oh, sorry - the most economical) option for repairing a toilet. So!
Toilet- this is not only (pardon the expression) a latrine: it is a place where not only you, but also your guests go. And if the toilet has ragged walls, cracked tiles, and there are holes on the floor, then such a place can be called a toilet purely hypothetically: in fact, such a place is easier to call a “toilet” or “stove” (excuse the expression). Naturally, after visiting such an “attraction” your guests will have a not very positive opinion of you - fact!
It's clear that repairs are needed. But, as mentioned just above, you may simply not have the money for expensive tiles, plumbing fixtures, etc.: all this costs a fair amount. But did you know that if you need to renovate a toilet, you can get by with a fairly small amount of money?
There is no need to install expensive tiles in the toilet
Yes, yes: those same patterned tiles that are glued to the ceiling! The advantages of this repair option are obvious:
1 incredibly low cost;
2 very small specific gravity, which will allow you to significantly reduce repair time: foam tiles do not “float”, they do not need to be constantly held and adjusted;
3 adhesive paste for gluing foam tiles is very inexpensive;
4 no need to buy grout separately: as a grout for joints, use the same paste on which you glued the tiles;
5 tiles come in different color shades, so there is no need to glue them white tiles: there is turquoise, blue, yellow, etc.;
6 foam tiles are very easy to cut to size (unlike tiles, which are very difficult to cut even with a tile cutter). In general, continuous advantages!
The only thing that is required of you is to make the walls even. To do this, knock down the old tiles
(or remove old paint) and, using the “level”, perform an algorithm for leveling the walls using mortar.
The smoother the walls are, the cooler the foam tiles will look on those walls!
After pasting the walls and ceiling foam tiles, do not forget to glue the top plinth (padogu): so to speak, for a better “calico”
The ceiling, of course, should also be covered with the same tiles. In general, everything ingenious is not only simple, but also economical, fast, understandable and beautiful!
AND last tip: if you want to visually increase the area of the toilet,then put blue tiles on the floor!
Rarely when we go to visit friends, we admire how the toilet is installed in the toilet. But, when we need to use the services of a restroom, then we can appreciate the convenience of this necessary element. Is it difficult to install a toilet yourself? Let's try to figure this out.
First, decide on the toilet model. Pay attention to the fastening systems in the product design. Basically they are the same, but in some cases they may differ. Attention should also be paid preparatory work. So, let's get to work.
Preparatory work
Before installing a new toilet, decide which method you will use to secure it. The simplest is to screw it to the floor using strong dowels with filler. It is important that the intended location is level. Otherwise, when tightening the bolts or screws more tightly, the mounting ears in the toilet will simply burst.
Another way to fix the toilet is cement pouring. At the same time, it is necessary to take care of sufficient thickness screeds. Otherwise, it won’t withstand the load - and then it can turn out very funny.
Before installing the toilet, you must check the communications in advance. The water supply must be at the required distance to the cistern. The sewage system must also be in good condition (pipes must be sealed and have the required slope). All this needs to be taken care of in advance so that later you don’t have to remove the toilet every now and then to carry out the necessary work.
Toilet installation
After we have prepared the base for the toilet and checked all suitable communications, we can proceed directly to the installation of the “chair”. Before attaching it to the base, we connect the drain pipe. Thanks to modern technologies this can be done quite quickly and without any difficulty. For this you can use corrugated siphon. If the flush tank requires fastening directly to the toilet structure, be especially careful. Such toilet models even with small cracks or chipped they become unusable.
Some additionally process the connecting gaskets silicone sealants. This will provide maximum protection against leakage. Drain pipe there is no need to process such materials, as this may complicate renovation work, if such are required. In addition, all connecting elements are ideally sized to each other. They are also equipped with rubber gaskets that provide protection against leakage. There is no need to worry that the pipe is not securely fastened. The fact is that pressure is not created in the sewer system. Therefore, such connecting systems are quite reliable.
In case if cistern is attached to the toilet itself, care must be taken to ensure that it is not broken by those who will use the “services” of the toilet. The fact is that when a person sits on the toilet, he can automatically lean his back against the raised lid. As a result, negative pressure is exerted on the tank, and it can come off the mount. Therefore, it is recommended to install such toilets near the wall of the room. Even if someone leans their back against the tank, it will not break.
