The composition of the soil largely determines the normal vegetation of plants throughout the season and bountiful harvest in the fall. The ratio of acidic and alkaline components is especially important. Depending on the pH value, all soils are divided into three large groups: alkaline, neutral and acidic. For the vast majority of crops, areas with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction are most preferable. Unfortunately, reality does not always correspond to the wishes of gardeners, who often have to take additional measures to achieve the required level of acidity. In particular, in overly alkaline or overly acidic areas, plant growth and development are significantly slowed down due to poor absorption nutrients. In this regard, it is necessary to regularly carry out liming activities on the site.
Before you begin to carry out alkalization activities, you should make sure that the soil on your site has a pH level below 6.5. How to do it? There are several methods, both scientific and folk.
Too acidic soils inhibit plant development. This happens due to excess iron, manganese and aluminum, which tend to accumulate, and also because acidification prevents beneficial microorganisms and worms from multiplying. Therefore, in soils with low pH values, fruits and berries vegetable crops It is difficult to absorb calcium and magnesium.
To increase the fertility of acidic soils, they are regularly limed with slaked lime, dolomite flour, crushed chalk, wood ash and other materials. The frequency of treatment, depending on the mechanical composition of the soil, varies from 3–4 years for sandy soils, up to 5–6 years – for clays and loams.
As a result of liming, the nutritional value of soils increases and plants begin to better absorb substances useful for growth: nitrogen, calcium, phosphorus, molybdenum and magnesium. For liming to work properly, some prerequisites must be met:
your soil, it's time to put this knowledge into practice. If everything is fine with the pH and it is close to neutral (value 6.0-7.5), then you do not need to do anything. But if the range of values has expanded, then the acidity must be adjusted.
Most plants tolerate a soil pH between 5.5 and 8.5. And in in this case no extraordinary measures are required, and the entire adjustment of acidity can be reduced only to adding b O larger than usual doses organic fertilizers, such as rotted manure. Yes, increasing the content of organic matter in the soil has a beneficial effect on both slightly acidic and slightly alkaline soils, bringing their acidity closer to neutral. pH level finished compost is close to 7.0 (neutral), which is why putting it in is so favorable for her. In addition to compost, plenty of it helps.
If the soil is too acidic or alkaline, then adding organic fertilizers to it may not be enough. More radical measures will be required here.
The easiest way to deacidify the soil, to make it less acidic (i.e. raise the pH value), is to add ground lime to it. Lime acts as an acid neutralizer. It may consist of calcium and magnesium carbonate or calcium carbonate. They are called dolomitic limestone, respectively ( dolomite flour) or calcitic limestone. Slaked lime (fluffed lime) is applied to the soil at the end of the season. They add an average of 300-400 grams per square meter, then dig it to a depth of 20 centimeters.
In addition to lime, it also reduces soil acidity. In addition to calcium, it contains many other useful substances.
Correction of alkaline soils is carried out as follows. At the beginning of the growing season, you need to cover the treated area with a layer of sphagnum (peat moss) 5 centimeters thick. Then you should dig up the soil well so that the sphagnum is mixed with top layer, at least 10 centimeters. Sphagnum (peat moss) is acidic with a pH of about 4.0, which increases the acidity of overly alkaline soil. This soil alkalization does not occur quickly, and the procedure can be repeated over several years.
But this method is very expensive for large areas. In large areas, the use of granulated sulfur would be more justified. In the spring, apply evenly 3-5 kilograms of granulated sulfur per hundred square meters(one hundred). For sandy soils reduce the amount by a third. In this case, sulfur, coming into contact with rainwater and wet soil, forms sulfuric acid, which balances excess soil alkalinity.
After tilling the soil, do new acidity tests next year and repeat corrective measures if necessary.
Important note - never exceed the required standards of substances added to the soil. It is better to repeat the procedure later if once is not enough.
Before adding amendments to the soil, consider what crops you plan to plant here. It is better to group plants in the neighborhood that have similar preferences in soil composition and acidity. And for some plants there may be no need to adjust anything. For example, blueberries like acidic soils with a pH in the range of 4.0-5.0.
By the way, it is important to understand that the plant does not love acid as such, but those micro- and macroelements that are most available at a given soil acidity. Therefore, there are also opponents of introducing any substances such as lime into the soil, arguing that in this way we, restoring acidity, at the same time upset the balance of elements in the soil by introducing excess calcium, magnesium, etc. into it. And this, they argue, with a formally “good “acidity of the soil creates an excess of certain elements in it, which may also not be liked by plants. They advocate normalizing the pH balance only by adding organic fertilizers: compost, bone and blood meal, manure, algae, etc. There is also such a point of view. And if you have the opportunity to improve the soil in your garden or vegetable garden only by generously adding a variety of organic matter, it may be worth listening to it.
We have a rather harsh hot climate. High desert.
We garden without pesticides and herbicides. In short, organic.
the soil is highly alkaline and free lime - that is, when you pour the soil into a jar, add vinegar, it sizzles like... you know, vinegar and soda, yes. That is, free lime in the soil. Soil alkalinity is above 7.5, where 8 where that. Reducing soil acidity in this case is not very effective. The acid quickly binds and is neutralized. Irrigation water, because it comes from the mountains through limestone, is also alkaline. Artesian water is also alkaline.
The garden is covered with mulch, otherwise the soil dries out quickly.
The strawberry is covered with a bird net. otherwise they shave it off before 5 am.
Here are the tomatoes... well, what kind are there?
There are gardeners here who have alkaline soils. In Russia, they grew gardens on black soil (yeah... the local soil greeted them with applause, so to speak... it’s like, they quickly forgot everything they knew and started from scratch).
tell us what you do and how.
All my legumes and cucumbers died due to lack of iron. Iron in the soil
In bulk, only it is bound due to lime. bud - red soil, but with bound iron. So far I have looked into this matter, because at the garden center it was said that this is actually a form of late blight... Well, I watered Bordeaux mixture, only the beans of the same... went into severe shape and were completely dried out by the local harsh desert wind in 3 weeks and the overwhelming majority of them bent.
In short, I finally got to the iron shells. This is the only thing that works here.
Now we are starting to get into the 30s and above. When this is combined with the wind, it is of course difficult to garden.
The local climate, as local old farmers say, gives many applause.
I would like to present Russian varieties that come specifically from alkaline soils. But at the same time they can withstand the local winter. Generally speaking, the climate zone is 5. But our winter is -20 and there is no snow, and yesterday it was +10. Even local Christmas trees are bent due to such changes.
This is what happens to trees in local soil when there is a lack of iron.
The dying off of the branches happened in the spring. I had never seen chlorosis before and didn’t know what it was and what it did to the tree. It turns out that the previous owners had an arborist company that chopped off their trees with iron. In short, they were scammed out of 85 bucks per tree several times a year. for 10k trees it turns out to be a decent score. how more trees the more problems. 
chlorosis on maple 
chlorosis on maple 
the last form of chlorosis, drying of branches. 
In chemistry, pH is an index that shows how acidic or alkaline a certain substrate is. pH values range from 0 to 14: if the pH value is approximately 0, it indicates a very acidic environment, if it approaches 14, it indicates an alkaline environment. A pH value of 7 indicates a neutral environment. In gardening and horticulture, the pH of the soil in which plants are grown can have a major impact on plant growth and health. Although most plants grow well at a pH of 6.5-7, there are some species that grow much better at certain soil acidities, so serious gardeners should learn the basics of managing soil acidity. Start with step one and you will learn how to lower the soil pH in your garden.
Part 1
Determination of pH levelCheck the pH level of the soil. Before you add anything to the soil to change its acidity level, be sure to check how different the pH is from what you need. You can purchase a DIY pH test kit from a gardening supply store, or see if you can have your soil tested by a professional.
Dig 5 small holes in the area. The easiest way to determine the pH of the soil in your area is to use a special pH test kit. These kits are usually inexpensive and are available at many hardware and gardening stores. Start by taking soil samples from the area where you want to test the pH. Dig five small holes, 15-20 cm deep. The location of the holes should be random within the site - this will give you an “average” pH value for your soil. You won't need the soil you took out of the holes now.
Take a soil sample from each hole. So, take a bayonet or shovel and cut out a narrow “slice” of soil from the side of each hole. This "slice" should be half-moon shaped and 1/2 inch thick. Place the samples in a clean, dry basket.
Mix the soil in a basket and spread a thin layer on newspaper to dry. Let the soil dry until it feels dry when you touch it.
Use the kit to determine the exact pH level of your soil. The determination method will depend on your specific test kit. For most kits it is necessary to place no a large number of soil into a special test tube, add a few drops of a special solution, shake thoroughly and let the resulting suspension settle for several hours. After a certain time, the color of the solution should change, and by comparing the resulting solution with the color chart included with the test, you will be able to determine the pH of your soil.
Part 2
Using techniques to lower pHAdd organic materials. Many organic materials, such as compost, composted manure, and acidic mulches (such as pine needles), can gradually lower soil pH over time. As organic materials decompose, bacteria and other microorganisms grow and feed on them, releasing acidic byproducts. Since organic materials take a long time to decompose and change the soil, this method is well suited for long-term purposes. However, if you are looking for quick results, this method will not meet your expectations. Many gardeners choose to add organic materials to the soil annually to slowly gradually lower the soil pH.
Add aluminum sulfate. In order to quickly lower soil pH, it is not necessary to rely on the gradual, slow decomposition of the organic substrate. On the contrary, in any gardening store you can find a wide selection of additives that quickly acidify the soil. Among these additives, you can choose aluminum sulfate - one of the fastest-acting substances. Aluminum sulfate releases acid into the soil as it dissolves, which in gardening terms means it works almost instantly. Therefore, aluminum sulfate will help you if you need to quickly lower the pH of the soil in your garden.
Add sulfur. Another substance that is added to the soil to lower the pH is sublimated sulfur. If we compare this additive with aluminum sulfate, it is somewhat cheaper, less of it is required per unit area, but it acts somewhat slower. Because the sulfur must be absorbed by soil bacteria, which then convert it into sulfuric acid, this process takes some time. Depending on soil moisture, bacterial counts, and temperature, it may take up to several months for sulfur to begin to have a significant effect on soil acidity.
Add granular urea coated with sulphur. Like aluminum sulfate and sulfur, soil amendments containing urea coated with sulfur can gradually increase the acidity of the mail (lower its pH). Additives containing urea act quite quickly, and the effect begins to appear 1-2 weeks after adding the substance to the soil. Sulfur-coated urea is a common ingredient in many fertilizers, so if you plan to feed your plants fertilizer, you can avoid wasting time and money on this additive and immediately choose a fertilizer that contains this substance.
Add other acidic additives. In addition to the additives listed above, there are many other substances that are sold both separately and as part of complex fertilizers. The amount of fertilizer and the timing of its application greatly depend on the type of fertilizer, so carefully read the instructions on the product packaging or ask for advice from a consultant at a gardening store. Here are some amendments that can lower the pH level of your soil:
Grow plants adapted to alkaline soils. If your soil is too alkaline to grow plants that need acidic soils, growing plants that prefer alkaline soils can significantly lower the pH for almost the duration of their life. As plants grow, mature, and die, the organic substrate that gets into the soil causes bacteria to grow and the soil pH gradually decreases (the same principle applies here as when adding organic material in the form of mulch or manure). This method is one of the most slow ways lower pH because plants must first grow before they begin to supply organic material to the soil. Here are some examples of plants that prefer alkaline soil:
Part 3
When to lower soil pHLower the soil pH for shrubs such as rhododendron or azalea. Some species flowering bushes plants such as rhododendron and azalea require fairly acidic soil to grow well. These plants originate from areas where there is a lot of rainfall (such as the Pacific Northwest region of the United States), and high rainfall contributes to soil acidification. For these plant species, the optimal pH value varies from 4.5 to 5.5. However, they can grow in soils whose pH reaches 6.0.
Lower the pH for flowers such as petunia or begonia. Many bright flowering plants, such as petunia and begonia, grow best in acidic soils. For some of these colors the acidity changes from slightly acidic before Very acidic can lead to a visible change in flower color. For example, if you grow hydrangea in an area where the soil pH level is 6.0-6.2, then the plant will bloom pink flowers. If you lower the pH to 5.0-5.2, then you will grow flowers with blue or purple petals.
Lower pH levels for evergreen trees. Many evergreens coniferous trees grow on slightly acidic soils. For example, spruce, pine and fir thrive if the soil pH level is 5.5-6.0. In addition, the needles of these tree species can be added as organic material to alkaline and neutral soils. As the needles decompose, the pH level will slowly decrease.
Lower soil pH for certain berry crops. Probably the most famous berry plant that requires acidic soil is blueberries, which grow well in very acidic soils (ideal pH values are 4.0-5.0). There are other berries that prefer acidic soils. For example, cranberries grow well at a pH of 4.2-5.0, and cloudberries, currants and elderberries grow well at a pH of 5.05-6.5.
For ferns, you need to reduce the acidity of the soil only slightly below neutral. Most varieties of garden ferns prefer soils where the pH is slightly below 7.0. Even those that prefer alkaline soils can tolerate slightly acidic substrates quite well. For example, maidenhair, which prefers soils with a pH of 7.0-8.0, can do quite well at a pH of 6.0. Some ferns can even tolerate acidic soils where the pH level is 4.0.
Find specialist gardening resources for a comprehensive list of plants that prefer acidic soil. The list of plants that can or prefer to grow in acidic soils is too extensive to include in this article. For more complete information we can refer to special botanical reference books. They can usually be found in gardening stores or purchased in the special section of any bookstore. Alternatively, you can find information on the Internet. For example, the official website of The Old Farmer's Almanac magazine contains a table that shows the soil acidity preference for many plants (you can find it
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23.10.2017
When growing most cultivated plants, it is necessary to take into account many different factors: weather and climatic conditions, soil fertility, humidity, soil composition, level groundwater And so on.
High alkalinity, like increased acidity soil, can also create very unfavorable conditions for the growth and development of most crops, since they have a direct impact on the degree of penetration of heavy metals into the internal tissues of plants.
To determine the acidity of the soil, the pH indicator is used ( acid-base balance), the values of which usually range from three and a half to eight and a half units. If the “pH” of the soil is neutral (within six or seven units), then heavy metals remain bound in the soil and only a tiny amount of these harmful substances enters the plants.
How to determine soil acidity and improve its “pH” can be read .
Alkaline soil has low fertility because the soil is usually heavy, viscous, poorly permeable to moisture and poorly saturated with humus. Such soil is characterized by a high content of calcium salts (lime) and elevated pH values.
According to their characteristics, alkaline soils can be divided into three main types:
· Weakly alkaline soils (pH value of about seven or eight units)
· Moderately alkaline (pH value about eight, eight and a half units)
· Strongly alkaline (pH value above eight and a half units)
Alkaline soils are very different - these are solonetz and solonetzic soils, lands that contain most of stony loam, as well as heavy clay soils. In any case, they are all calcareous (that is, saturated with alkali).
To determine the presence of lime in the soil, just pour a little vinegar onto a lump of soil. If lime is present in the soil, instantaneous chemical reaction, the earth will begin to hiss and foam.
The easiest way to determine exact value“pH” using litmus paper (a standard indicator specially designed for this purpose that shows the acidity of the soil). To do this, you should prepare a small amount of an aqueous solution in the form of a liquid suspension (at the rate of one part earth to five parts water), and then dip a litmus indicator into the solution and see what color the paper turns.
Some plants can also indicate the presence of alkaline soil, for example, chicory, bellflower, thyme, spurge, and woodlice.
Calcareous soils are most often located in the southern part of the steppe and forest-steppe zones of Ukraine and are alkaline chestnut and brown soils with poor vegetation. These soils are characterized by a low humus content (no more than three percent) and low humidity, so in order to successfully grow on these lands cultivated plants, it is necessary to oxidize the soil and provide additional irrigation.
As for solonetzes and solonchaks, these are extremely problematic, infertile lands, which also have a high salt content. These soils are characteristic of the southern steppes and are present on sea coasts and in the coastal areas of large and small rivers of our country.
Ways to Improve Alkaline Soil
The pH value of alkaline soils can be improved through reclamation measures and the addition of calcium sulfate, which is popularly called gypsum, into the soil. When making regular plaster, calcium displaces absorbed sodium, as a result of which the structure of the solonetz horizon improves, the soil begins to pass moisture better, as a result of which excess salts are gradually washed out of the soil.
The effect of adding gypsum is not limited only to increasing the amount of sulfur in the soil, since it first of all improves the structure and quality of the soil, helping to increase the content of bound sodium in it.
Granular sulfur is also used as an excellent soil oxidizer, which should be applied gradually (about twenty kilograms per hectare of area), with an interval of three or more months. But it should be remembered that the result from adding sulfur can be expected only after a year or even after several years.
To improve alkaline soil, it is recommended to perform deep plowing, but without ameliorating additives it is usually less effective.
To neutralize alkalinity caused by the presence of sodium carbonates and bicarbonates in the soil, weak solutions of various acids, most often sulfuric, should be used. A similar effect is exerted by acidic salts, which form acids due to the hydrolysis reaction (for example, iron sulfate is often used as a component for the reclamation of alkaline soils).
In practice, to improve soil alkalinity, farmers sometimes use waste from the phosphorus mining industry, that is, phosphogypsum, which in addition to calcium sulfate contains impurities of sulfuric acid and fluorine. But in Lately scientists sounded the alarm because phosphogypsum, although it neutralizes increased alkali, also pollutes the soil with fluorine. Plants can react differently to a given substance (for example, it has been proven that increased content fluoride in plants intended for animal feed can be quite toxic).
In slightly alkaline soils, the structure of the fertile horizon is improved by plowing with the introduction of increased doses of organic fertilizers, which acidify the soil. The best of them is rotted manure, to which you should add ordinary superphosphate (about twenty kilograms per ton of manure) or phosphorus flour (about fifty kilograms per ton of humus). To reduce soil alkalinity, you can also add peat moss or bog peat to the soil. The needles of pine trees, which are often used as a basis for mulching the soil, acidify the soil quite well. Good result To normalize alkalinity, it produces compost from rotted oak leaves.
In dry areas with a small amount monthly precipitation requires additional irrigation of the land.
Alkaline soil is significantly improved by planting green manure plants, which are an excellent source of biological nitrogen. As green manure crops, crops such as lupine (contains a large amount of protein substances) and other plants of the legume family, as well as seradella, clover, sweet clover, white mustard, rye and buckwheat.
Using mineral fertilizers, you should choose those that acidify the soil, but do not contain chlorine (for example, ammonium sulfate).
