New, and in in this case, forgotten old, wood concrete returns to the market building materials. As practice has shown, building a house from wood concrete blocks with your own hands is a good prospect for building a strong, warm and reliable private house.
Disadvantages of brick and concrete walls known to everyone wooden houses Not everyone can afford it. An alternative to the above is wood concrete. Having 80-90% wood chips, connected with a cement binder and modified with chemical additives, wood concrete eliminates the shortcomings and enhances the advantages of wood and concrete.
Wood concrete was created and tested in the middle of the last century, and its production is regulated by GOST 19222-84.
A house can be built in two ways:
Often the decision is made to make wood concrete with your own hands. Before starting work, it is important to make sure that the blocks have gained the strength and hardness necessary for work.
To build a house from monolithic wood concrete you need to study the technology of the device monolithic walls. The remaining stages will be identical to block construction.
In this article we will focus on detailed description first option.
How to build a house from wood concrete blocks with your own hands
The main stages of work in the form of successive steps from A to Z.
The development of the project precedes the start of work due to the need for its coordination and approval by the licensing authorities. In addition to the house plan itself, the cottage project contains information about the materials used, places and methods of connecting to communications, electrical and gas supplies, type of foundation, etc. The project makes it possible to further calculate the amount of material and the load it creates.
For your information, the design of a house made of wood concrete is no different from the design of a house made of foam concrete, and therefore a typical project can be used, taking into account the absence of the reinforcing belts necessary for foam blocks.
Before you start construction work, you need to make sure you choose the right wall material.
Arbolite certainly has a number of advantages. But! Only if it is of high quality and is used for its intended purpose.
You should know that wood concrete is used in the construction of buildings with a height not exceeding 7 meters. (height itself load-bearing wall). This makes it attractive when constructing a 2-3-story private house or cottage with an attic. In combination with columns or other structural elements (support pillars), taking on part of the load, construction of more floors is allowed.
To purchase a high-quality block, professionals advise paying attention to the determining factors:
Note: the use of sawdust increases the thermal conductivity of the block. Large chips are not completely saturated. As a result, the adhesion of wood to cement is disrupted and the block loses strength.
Note: the unevenness of the blocks can increase the consumption of masonry mortar by 40%, makes the use of special adhesive mixtures inappropriate, and increases the consumption of plaster when finishing, increases the complexity and duration of work.
A distinctive feature of wood concrete is its good bending strength, regardless of the purpose of the block. This gives the block the ability to recover from stress. In practice, this removes restrictions when choosing the type of foundation, which is integral part any building. To a large extent, it is the quality of the foundation that determines the lifespan of the house.
What is the best foundation for a house made of wood concrete?
In practice, any can be used. Most often it is tape or combined.
Note: during the pouring process, the channels provided for by the project are left for further installation of communications.
Before starting work, you need to decide on the size of the foundation.
When calculating static loads, you need to take into account:
In addition, dynamic load is taken into account:
Note: if the soil type is not determined, the minimum resistance value is used for calculations.
The plinth will provide greater protection wood concrete block from the influence of water. The recommended plinth height is 500-600 mm (depending on the level of precipitation in the region and the availability drainage system around the house). The base is made of brick or concrete.
Let us immediately note that the construction of arbolite walls is notable for the fact that it is advisable to use cement-sand mortar. The choice is due to the uneven geometry of the block, which makes it economically unprofitable to use special adhesive solutions used for laying cellular concrete, such as Ceresit CT 21. Increased consumption glue mixture will increase the budget for building a house.
Consumption of cement-sand mortar is 1 m3 per 8-10 m3 of arbolite blocks. The value is approximate, because the geometry of the blocks is not constant, the discrepancy can be from 5 mm to 1.5 cm in width and height.
An alternative to the classic solution can be:
Note. Perlite is volatile, which means you need to work with it in the absence of wind.
Good reviews has thermal insulation masonry mortar with perlite LM 21-P. The Quick-mix mixture has water-retaining ability, so the blocks do not need to be moistened separately. Supplied in 17.5 kg bags, in the form of a dry powder. The solution is easily mixed with water (stir for at least 5 minutes) by hand or with a mixer (mixer). Ready solution use within 1-2 hours.
The technology for laying wood concrete is identical to brick or foam concrete wall, in addition, wood concrete strongly absorbs moisture from the solution, which means that the blocks need to be moistened before starting work.
The masonry starts from the corner and is laid out in rows, periodically checking the degree of deviation with a level. The blocks are easy to process, so there will be no difficulties with adjusting the size.
The width of the seam depends on the geometry of the block and is 10-30 mm.
The solution is applied to the block of the previous row along the edges of the block. Thus, an air thermal break is obtained, which compensates for the high thermal conductivity of the masonry mortar.
On the construction forum, according to reviews, many users use an additional method of insulating masonry, using polystyrene foam tape in the seams, wooden slats etc. The gasket creates a gap in the mortar joint and thereby eliminates the appearance of cold bridges. How expedient this is, everyone decides for themselves.
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The optimal thickness of wood concrete walls is 30 cm, for houses of two floors and above - 40 cm. A simple rule applies - the thicker the wall, the warmer it is. A arbolite wall thickness of 20 cm is possible if brick cladding or additional insulation is provided from the inside and outside. How thick the wall should be depends on what region the house is in, how it will be heated, and what the construction budget is.
Craftsmen advise stiffening a wood concrete wall by reinforcing it. To reinforce wood concrete, polymer (plastic) mesh or metal rods treated with anti-corrosion compounds (for example, UR-108 enamel) are used. Thus, the corners of the building, the junction of walls, window and door openings are strengthened. Unlike aerated concrete and foam concrete, no mandatory requirement in masonry reinforcement, but many users reinforce every 3-4 rows of masonry.
Arbolite blocks are laid in a checkerboard pattern (laying with dressing). This is necessary for reliable adhesion. No more than 3 rows are laid out around the perimeter. Then there is a break for a day. During this time, the solution will dry and you can continue working. That's why it's often external walls are erected together with internal ones.
Advice. Adding additives to the solution that increase the rate of strength gain of cement will increase the speed of work.
The “Shuttle” accelerator, which provides strength gain in 12 hours (consumption of 3 liters per 100 kg of cement, price 75 rubles/100 g) and the “Virtuoso Start” accelerator, which also contains an anti-shrinkage agent, have proven themselves well. Provides 50% strength gain in 3 hours (consumption 1 liter per 100 kg of cement, price 80 rubles/100 g).
The photo shows step by step how to make a lintel over a window and over a door in a house made of wood concrete. Two options for covering openings.
(the edges of the corner are walled into the walls, blocks are installed inside)
(a groove was cut out in the wood concrete blocks for inserting a channel)
After erecting the wall, before laying the floor (interfloor or attic) on the wood concrete wall, you need to pour a concrete (monolithic) reinforcing belt. Its arrangement will give the wall strength, allow it to more evenly distribute the load and securely secure the Mauerlat.
To make an armored belt, it is convenient to use a special U-shaped block (tray U-arboblock).
A monolithic reinforced concrete slab, wooden or metal beams can be used as a flooring material.
Advice. Manufacturers of wood concrete blocks recommend producing. To do this, it is not necessary to pour a concrete belt. After all, the ability of wood concrete to “pull” moisture from concrete does not have the best effect on the quality of the pour. Additional supplements will be required. It is also advisable to use wooden floors for installing door and window openings. The masters completely agree with them and recommend using wooden beam as a lining of the perimeter of the wall under the ceiling.
The Mauerlat is attached to the wood concrete with the obligatory laying of a layer of waterproofing.
Laying communication systems does not create difficulties. Any holes can be easily made in wood concrete blocks, so there is no need to immediately lay additional channels for sewerage, pipes, heating, etc.
Some people use a hollow block, installing it on an edge.
On arbolite walls can be installed rafter system any configuration. Choice roofing material also not regulated.
Experts advise using bitumen shingles for roofing works. They explain their choice by saying that bitumen shingles can perceive minor vibrations of wood concrete walls without the appearance of significant defects.
An important nuance when constructing a roof will be compliance with the rule - moving the roof 300-500 away from the wall, which will protect it from direct contact with rain and melt water.
As a manufacturer of wood concrete blocks in Belarus, I’ll add my two cents. In general, the issue of wall thickness has two sides: economic and legislative. The formula for the economic feasibility of heat transfer resistance (i.e. thickness) has many components and links, among other things, the cost of energy, the cost of insulation work, the cost of the insulation itself, the duration of the heating period, etc. Therefore, it is possible to make a building envelope with heat transfer resistance R=1 m² *°C/W (20 years ago this was the norm) if you have access to cheap energy or free insulation. When I built a house from wood concrete (2015, Minsk, 30 cm wall, gas heating) I calculated, just for fun, economic feasibility insulation 50 mm basalt wool. At that time, the payback period was 19 years. There was no economic sense in insulating it.
As for the legislative side, I can only judge about Belarus, where I actually live.
The issue of wall thickness is regulated by TKP 45-2.04-43-2006 “Construction Heat Engineering”. According to it, the heat transfer resistance of the building envelope for our region is RT= 3,2 m² *°C/W. But!
It is allowed to reduce the reduced resistance to heat transfer of external walls to 0.8 Rt while the following conditions are met:
- achievement by the building of the standard value of specific heat energy consumption for heating and ventilation, determined in accordance with TKP 45-2.04-196;
- using the methodology for calculating the reduced resistance to heat transfer of enclosing structures, presented in a separate document “Recommendations for calculating the reduced resistance to heat transfer of enclosing structures and calculating heat losses of premises through fences,” as well as other methods that meet the requirements specified in 5.11, item d).”
Translated into normal language this is:
- specific consumption thermal energy for heating and ventilation during the heating period, for a building from 1 to 3 floors, should be less than 91 kWh/ m²
;
In relation to wood concrete we obtain the following.
According to our standard 1105-98 “Wall blocks made of wood concrete for low-rise construction» the density of the wood concrete block for the load-bearing wall must be at least 650 kg/m³
. At this density, we have a thermal conductivity coefficient λ= 0.12 W/(m*°C) (according to test results).
Thus, minimum thickness walls for Belarus must have heat transfer resistance
Rmin= 0.8*3.2=2.56 m² *°C/W.
Converting this into meters, taking into account the heat transfer coefficients of the wall surface, we get 0.288 meters. This is the thickness of the “bare” wall, excluding thermal resistance finishing materials. If we take into account the minimum finishing, we get 0.27 meters. Therefore, I recommend to all my clients to lay a wall 30 cm thick, and given that the main heat loss occurs through the roof and windows, pay more attention to them.
Laying wood concrete is not difficult. This building material is not “capricious” and does not introduce any difficulties into the process. You can work with it yourself, having basic construction skills. But before work, it’s worth studying the process so that further installation goes “like clockwork.”
The chips, which are components of the block and provide strength, form cavities. The air accumulated in such gaps is considered an ideal heat insulator. But there is also a disadvantage to this, since the masonry mortar is consumed too quickly.
But the seams between the blocks are thinner, that is, the reliability of the structure becomes higher. This is explained by the fact that the solution penetrates into all cavities of the block when mutual pressure occurs. The block of the second row begins to press the mass directly onto the solution. After the cement hardens, a real monolith is obtained - the adhesion between the blocks is so good. And if compared with a smooth and overly dense material, it would not be able to give exactly the same effect.
Therefore, the structure of the block helps to make the structure indestructible. A convenient a light weight does not require many hands: it can be done alone. Even a beginner in construction can do this.
You can build from wood concrete not only one-story houses and outbuildings. This is a durable and reliable material. Multi-storey buildings made from such blocks are also durable and comfortable. And their service life is at least fifty years.
Myself building block good. But you need to make an effort so as not to spoil it with a low-quality solution. When two blocks are connected, they become a monolith if the solution is chosen correctly.
There are several types of solutions that you need to understand:
Wood concrete is also laid on polyurethane foam. This product provides good grip. It also guarantees good thermal insulation. But the disadvantage of this mixture is that it is difficult to lay the blocks evenly on it. This makes it significantly inferior to special glue and perlite.
It is not difficult to make a mixture for laying walls from wood concrete. Even an inexperienced builder can cope with this. But in order for the composition to really turn out to be of high quality and reliably connect the blocks, it is necessary to adhere to the correct proportions.
For those who decide to prepare a solution of sand and cement to build a building, you can use the following tips. You must use one part M400 cement and two parts sand or one part M500 cement and three parts sand of your choice. Take a construction mixer and mix the dry mixture well until it looks homogeneous. After this, you need to gradually pour water and stir. When adding liquid, you should focus on the volume of cement. The mixture will be quite thick, but not too runny. Liquid solution is not suitable.
To create a perlite solution, take two buckets of the dry mixture and pour it into a container that can hold another ten liters of liquid. Perlite is a difficult material. It scatters too much at the slightest breath of wind. It is better to work with it in protective clothing, special glasses and a respirator. After mixing with water, add half a bucket of cement and stir until a homogeneous composition is obtained. The mass will not be fluid, so you should not add it there. excess water. Leave the mixture for ten minutes, then stir again.
A similar composition can be made using standard scheme or follow the recommendations that will be written on the packaging. According to the standard, you need to take five kilograms of dry powder and dilute it in twenty-five liters of water. The resulting homogeneous mass must be left for five minutes, then stirred again. The glue is easy to prepare, but if it is not used within two hours, it becomes unusable. Because of this, you should not prepare a lot of mixture at a time.
In addition to the above solutions for laying perlite, sawdust concrete is often used. To create such a fixing composition, sawdust is mixed with aluminum sulfate or calcium chloride and cement is added.
Depending on the climate, the walls are made to a certain thickness. If the weather in the region is mild, then a thickness of 30 cm is enough. If it is cold, then this figure should be increased.
When laying wood concrete, it is allowed to vary the thickness of the walls. You can lay it flat, which will make the walls appear denser. Or you can do it on edge, for example, when building a poultry house or shed. It all depends on average temperature air in a particular area, as well as on what this or that building is intended for.
To build walls made of wood concrete, you need to prepare a tool. Definitely worth finding building level and a cord, without which it will be impossible to make the walls straight and even. You will also need a spatula and a square. To quickly apply the solution to the surface of the block, you will need a trowel ladle. Don’t forget about a chainsaw, as well as a construction mixer, which will be needed at the very beginning when mixing the solution.
The first row of blocks must be perfectly protected from moisture penetration. Before laying wood concrete, you need to determine how many blocks you need to take on one row of the wall, and also how many you need to cut with a chainsaw. Apply five to six millimeters of mortar with a ladle and level the layer. It is important to remember that some of the mixture will inevitably seep into the cavities located between the chips. This means that the seam itself will be approximately 3 mm, and if laid especially carefully, it will not be more than 2 mm.
The first block should be laid, checking its correctness with a square, and then using a level to ensure its evenness. If there are errors, you should correct them using rubber mallet. You should forget about metal tools, since they are not used in this case. They will leave an unsightly dent that will not paint the building at all.
The same procedure should be repeated at all corners of the building. After the corner blocks have been correctly installed, you need to stretch the construction cord between them. This will help you quickly lay out other elements of the first row, since you won’t need to check with a level every time: orientation to the cord is enough.
The side of the corner block must be coated with the solution and the next element must be adjusted. And so on. Check the cord regularly.
After the first row is laid, wait at least four hours for the solution to fully set and harden. After this you need to put on top reinforced mesh, which is typical specifically for the first row.
The next rows of blocks are laid much faster, the process itself is simpler. After all, you can start from any place, not from the corners. You need to check the level, but not every time - from time to time. But you can use the same pattern with corners and construction cord, if that’s more convenient. The main thing is to always maintain the same seam size and make sure that it is small. The blocks should lie horizontally, without slanting to the side.
Each subsequent row of blocks is laid only after the previous one is securely fastened.
To give greater rigidity to wood concrete masonry, experts recommend making reinforcement. To do this, use a plastic mesh or rods made of metal. With the help of reinforcement, the corners of the building, openings, and wall joining points are strengthened.
It is not necessary to reinforce the wood concrete masonry. But builders carry out this procedure every three to four rows .
Before the start of the window, four rows of masonry are made. Only after this does the formation of the opening begin. Lintels for doors and windows are made using two methods: using reinforced concrete (formwork is made, then reinforced and only then filled with concrete) or using ready-made reinforced blocks.
Construction from wood concrete, which is carried out according to the rules, will create a durable, warm building. A house made of this material will delight you with comfort and reliability for many decades.
Arbolite blocks are not a capricious material, but unique. And if the task is to lay them with your own hands, then there are usually no problems with this process. The only question private developers ask is whether it is necessary to reinforce wood concrete blocks. It is impossible to answer it unequivocally - yes, this is a necessity, or no, it is not necessary. Everything will depend on the design of the building.
Before understanding the reinforcement of wood concrete masonry, it is necessary to indicate that this wall material It is made of lightweight concrete, which contains wood chips as a filler. Of all materials with organic fillers, it is the most durable with excellent thermal insulation qualities.
His external surfaces They have a porous structure, which guarantees good adhesion properties of the blocks. But at the same time the pores are filled big amount masonry mortar, which leads to high consumption. But this has its own advantage - the ability to make the seam between the blocks thin, which ensures appearance wall like monolithic structure. In addition, the seam is a cold bridge, so the thinner it is, the better.
In addition, the solution that gets into the porous structure of the block surface provides high strength to the entire wall structure. In this regard, materials with a smooth surface are inferior to wood concrete. Therefore, developers may have doubts whether it is worthwhile to reinforce the masonry with wood concrete. Everything will depend on the design of the building being constructed, its purpose and operating conditions. But, as practice shows, any structures erected from block materials, must necessarily be reinforced. This applies to both the masonry and the armored belt laid along the top.
Let's start with the fact that three types of solutions can be used for laying arbolite blocks:
So, the reinforcement of wood concrete begins immediately with the first row of stacked blocks. This is a strict requirement. For this, a standard welded reinforcing mesh made of steel wire with a diameter of at least 2.5 mm with cells of at least 50x50 mm is used. This mesh is sold in rolls 1.5 m wide and up to 25 m long. This is convenient because the roll can be unrolled and cut into the required number of pieces of the required length and width, which will ensure seamless laying of the mesh. If you have to join segments, and this will certainly be present at the joints of external and interior walls, then the connection is made by overlapping within 15 cm with wire ligation in three or four places.
The process of laying the mesh is standard, where there is one requirement - it must be located in the body of the masonry mortar. Therefore, in advance waterproofed foundation masonry mortar 10-12 mm thick is applied. A reinforcing mesh is placed on it with a slight recess into the finished mixture. There is another option, when the solution is applied in a layer of 5-6 mm, then a mesh is laid, with another layer of the mixture 5-6 mm on top. After which the laying of wood concrete begins.
The second option is much better. It allows laying to be carried out in sections. That is, the mesh laid on the masonry mortar may not be immediately covered top layer. And this makes it possible not to rush. The process can be carried out differently. The laid section of mesh is rolled up. The solution is applied to the foundation, for example, 3 m along. The mesh is unrolled to this size, an additional layer is applied on top and the laying is carried out. The same goes for the next three meters.
The masonry of arbolite blocks must be reinforced every 3 rows. If a one-story building is being constructed, then laying the reinforcing mesh can be done less frequently - every 5-6 rows.
Is an armored belt necessary in a house made of wood concrete? It is absolutely necessary, especially when it comes to multi-story building. It is poured into basement floor, interfloor and attic. It is not necessary to do this in the first floor if, according to calculations, the foundation of the building will withstand all the necessary loads. At this point, the armored belt is poured if the foundation structure is not a monolith, that is, assembled from blocks.
The whole point is that reinforced belt designed mainly to contain the loads coming from shrinkage of the house. It evenly distributes these loads along the entire perimeter of the building, preventing the walls from cracking.
The armored belt for wood concrete can be filled in two ways:
This traditional technology with the installation of formwork from boards or other flat materials. The main requirement is the strength of the structure, which should not move to the sides when pouring concrete. Therefore, the shields are fastened with through pins or wooden crossbars.
An important element of the armored belt of a house made of wood concrete is a reinforcing frame made of steel reinforcement. Essentially, these are two gratings with cells 20x20 cm, assembled from reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm. They are installed vertically and connected to each other into a three-dimensional structure (cage) with crossbars made of reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm. All connections are made using binding wire.
The reinforcing steel frame is installed on stands so that it is in the body of the armored belt. Therefore, in terms of dimensions it should be less space, formed by the elements of the formwork and the foundation plane. Stones, pieces of concrete blocks, and pieces of metal profiles can be used as stands.
The last stage is pouring a concrete solution made according to the recipe: cement-sand-crushed stone in a ratio of 1:2:2. Concrete must be poured simultaneously without long breaks between poured batches - no more than 2-3 hours. The solution must be vibrated to remove air that enters the mixture during the kneading process. And air is the pores inside the armored belt, which lead to a decrease in the strength characteristics of the structure.
The formwork can be removed after two to three days. But you can load the armored belt in 15 days, or better yet 28.
These are special blocks in which a longitudinal groove is made. The cross-sectional shape can be rectangular or oval. Concrete mortar must be poured into it with preliminary installation of reinforcement. This method simplifies several times the above procedure using formwork. Because U-shaped blocks are laid along the top row of the wall, like standard masonry elements, and act as permanent formwork.
It is important to understand here that a reinforcing frame made of steel reinforcement in the form of a cage or lattice is not used here. Simply, two or three reinforcing bars with a diameter of 12-16 mm are placed along the wall in a groove at a short distance from each other, connected to each other with a knitting wire or not connected at all. The main thing is to lay the rods so that they are in the body of the concrete solution being poured.
There are two important advantages of this method of constructing an armored belt for wood concrete:
With the advent of U-shaped blocks, the need for this technology of pouring a reinforcing belt disappeared. Let's just label it for information.
This will require arbolite blocks of smaller width. For example, width wall block– 300 mm, which means you need a block 100 or 150 mm wide. It is impossible to find wall-type material of this size, so the craftsmen simply cut solid blocks to the required dimensions.
The resulting masonry elements with a smaller width were laid on a wall or foundation so that there was an opening between them, where reinforcing bars were laid and concrete mortar was poured. Sometimes they did it in a different way:
So, answering the question whether a house made of wood concrete requires reinforcement, we can answer that this process is one of the important ones. It is with the help of reinforcement of walls and ceilings that it is possible to guarantee uniform shrinkage of the building without the appearance of cracks on the walls. In addition, these structures are often called seismic belts, which is very important in areas with seismic activity.
An arbolite block is made from concrete (as a binder) with organic fillers and a number of additives that prevent rotting of the filler, ensure hardening of the binder and adhesion to wood chips and other materials.
The cost of wood concrete blocks is relatively low:
Wood chips and sawdust of non-soft wood are used as the basis for wood concrete (80-90% of the finished block). It is possible to use other hard parts of plants (bark, straw, hard stems, etc.). All raw materials are pre-processed: the fraction is strictly regulated by GOST and should not exceed 40 mm in length and up to 5 mm in width.
Impurities of organic origin with the same fraction are allowed in raw materials. The volume of inclusions is no more than 5%.
Important note. Sand is not used as a filler in the wood concrete block. It can be used in the production of sawdust concrete - this is a material on the same basis, but from more small fraction sawdust This is the difference between these building materials: wood concrete according to GOST is produced without sand.
Cement and gypsum binders are used as binders:
About 250-300 kg of binder is used per 1 m3 of finished product.
Selected additives:
Additives are introduced into cement to better bind the components of the mixture: they neutralize the negative effect of sugars in wood, which weaken chemical reactions hydration during solidification of blocks. The volume of chemical additives should be 2...4% of the amount of cement.
Also added as a supplement liquid glass(silicates) in a volume of up to 10 kg per 1 m3 of wood concrete blocks.
Water as a component must be purified and not cold (20...25 °C). Water volume:
GOST allows the use of wood concrete reinforcement metal mesh, rods.
Equipment for the production of wood concrete blocks:
The area for installation with a capacity of 1 m3 is about 10…20 m2, storage areas for small production volumes are dry room at least 30...40 m3 of usable space.
Water is poured into the prepared wood chips in a running mixer. Then add quicklime. Mix for about 10 minutes to ensure maximum leveling of the mixture by volume. The result is that the organic matter darkens, and at the end of the process it becomes rich brown tint. For 1 m3 of wood chips, about 100 liters of water and 2.5-3 kg of lime are used.
Then water, binder and additives are introduced (if they have not previously been introduced into the cement). The water must be warm - at least 20...25 °C, so that by the end of mixing the temperature of the mixture is 15 °C - minimum temperature for normal setting of concrete. But you should not fill the mixture with water above 40 °C - the cement hydrates very quickly, and you still need to have time to pour the mixture into molds. In mass production, vibrating tables are also used (as for other types of blocks) to quickly shrink the mixture into molds.
The curing time of the wood concrete after hardening should be 28 days - the full setting time of the concrete. During the same time, the blocks gain structural strength.
When making wood concrete blocks with your own hands, you must follow the basic rule: mix all the components very thoroughly. Especially when using hand tools. Only high-quality mixing will make finished products homogeneous in composition and strength properties throughout the entire volume.
Houses made from arbolite blocks are built in almost the same way as other objects, with one small difference: it is advisable to immediately protect the masonry from any exposure to moisture. This can be done by applying a thin layer of plaster mortar. Other masonry features:
Due to his light weight, wood concrete is quickly laid by masons in rows. After the masonry has dried, it can be waterproofed after 2…3 days.
Important: wood concrete does not like moisture. For laying, the foundation is carefully waterproofed: minimum - it should be three layers bitumen mastic. The house must have correct blind area and a storm drainage system: you must remove ground moisture as far as possible from the foundation. In addition, it is necessary to think through and implement internal system ventilation: the wood concrete block is breathable, but it does not need excess moisture.
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