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» Sidewalk paths on the site. Restoration and complete renovation of garden paths Laying hard materials on a crushed stone bed

Sidewalk paths on the site. Restoration and complete renovation of garden paths Laying hard materials on a crushed stone bed

Garden plot design in country house It’s impossible to imagine without beautifully designed paths. Garden paths not only perform a functional role, visually delimiting zones (lawns for games, flower beds, decorative plantings, etc.), but also serve as a decorative element. To increase the service life of the coating and to accentuate the paths, curbs are used, which can be made from various materials. The type of border is determined by the overall design of the garden and the shape of the paths. Some curbs may protrude significantly, while others are barely noticeable. In any case, their presence is mandatory. This article will focus on borders for garden paths.

Types and features of curbs for paths

The following borders are used to design garden paths: plastic, metal, concrete and brick, wood, wicker, stone, and living plants. Each type has its own characteristics and difficulties in application. To choose a specific material, you need to focus on the style of the tracks ( a natural stone, paving slabs, cement coating, crushed stone, wooden flooring) and the proposed installation technique.

  • Plastic curbs the most versatile, harmonizes well with different styles. Big choice color design allows you to create original design. They are indispensable when edging curved paths with flexible, smooth lines. The advantages of plastic are its high durability and corrosion resistance, as well as the relatively affordable cost of the material. For self-installation plastic borders are best suited as they are very easy to install.
  • Metal borders made from of stainless steel or, as a more expensive option, made of copper and aluminum. Suitable for designing smooth paths with straight turns. They go well with their crushed stone paths.
  • Concrete curbs They look good only with straight paths. When installing, they require certain skills, and the process itself will take a little longer than in other cases.
  • Brick borders quite common and easy to install. Used as a horizontal arrangement facing bricks, and laying with a slope (in the form of teeth). This type of edging can hardly be called practical and durable. In areas with heavy and frequent rainfall, brick quickly deteriorates and crumbles. Nevertheless, this material goes perfectly with paving stones and looks especially advantageous in a design made in the English style.

Border photo

  • Wooden borders are considered the least durable. They require annual maintenance, which consists of priming and painting. Untreated boards or old slats should not be used for these purposes. Such savings will quickly remind you of themselves. Average term The service life of wooden borders does not exceed 10 years. However, this is the cheapest and simplest design option. Such borders are usually used in rustic style or, if desired, create a distinctly simple design.
  • Wicker borders They are made from willow branches and serve rather a decorative function. They will not be able to become an obstacle to lawn grass or block the flow of rainwater. This romantic design is more suitable for flower beds or simple garden paths.
  • A natural stone is a leader in design. It is both practical and decorative material. Only its price can repel many connoisseurs of natural beauty. To make borders, shell rock (cheaper), sandstone, granite and marble are used. An alternative could be various artificial imitations of natural stone.

  • Hedges will always remain favorites landscape design. There is a list of special border flowering or ornamental plants. These include perennial low-growing and beautifully flowering bergenia, bellflower, canna, primrose, gaillardia, hellebore, hosta, kniphofia and many others. Creating living borders is quite interesting. It is important to consider color contrast and plant architecture.

Installation of plastic curbs for paths

  • Laying plastic curbs does not require significant preparatory work associated with digging a trench, concreting the base or spreading non-woven material.
  • They start by determining the contours of the path and the desired height of the curb. Manufacturers provide with outside element hole for fastening pegs or anchors. This fastening reliably fixes the curb and does not require special devices, except for a hammer for driving in metal stakes.

  • The plastic easily fits and bends, repeating the most masterly curves. When the curbs are secured, the paths are laid. If gravel, paving stones or stone are used, the border can be completely hidden to create a contrasting line with greenery and flowers. In this case, the structure will reliably perform its functions of protecting the coating.

Installation of concrete curbs

  • Concrete curbs are designed to high load, therefore their installation implies a strong fixation.
  • First, a trench is dug along the contour of the path (its depth will depend on the depth level concrete stones). Next, the trenches are filled with a solution (one part cement and 3 parts sand), leveled and stones are immersed in it close to the edge of the path. The solution should not be too liquid, as the stone will float and it will be impossible to fix it.

  • After installing several stones, you will need to return to the first one and begin fixing it with an additional layer of cement at several points. Ideally, the curb should protrude by 5 cm. After the solution hardens, the outer side of the trench is covered with earth or sand. This design will last a long time, maintaining its original appearance.
  • You can use self-made stones for the border, but it is better to purchase ready-made elements with a guarantee of quality from the manufacturer.

Laying natural stone borders

  • This type of border does not require a trench, but you will need to remove a thin layer of soil to lay the non-woven material.
  • Large stones are placed tightly on the “bedding” directly. Large gaps between them are filled with smaller pebbles. Finally, all voids are filled with dry cement.

  • At first glance, such work seems simple and uncomplicated. However, it requires certain skills and patience.

General rules for installing borders

  • So that the path retains its shape for a long time and aesthetic appearance must be prevented gross mistakes when installing curbs. So where do you start work, and what stages can be identified?
  • When marking the contours of the path, stakes are driven in, along which a construction cord is pulled; it will indicate the upper boundary of the curb element. When installing each subsequent element of the curb, you should check its correct level position.
  • It is undesirable to fill cracks in structures with cement, as this can lead to expansion and disruption of the integrity of the curb under the influence of water and frost. It is safer if water does not linger in small spaces.

Original do-it-yourself borders

  • To independently cast concrete curb elements, special polymer molds are purchased. The length of garden forms does not exceed 50 cm, which is very convenient for subsequent installation. Garden forms of various configurations and sizes are sold on the market. They are suitable for reusable use if a 3% solution was used to wash them of hydrochloric acid. Mechanical cleaning of concrete residues in case of sticking is not allowed.

  • By purchasing molds for casting, you can significantly save on arranging your personal plot, since ready-made border elements are much more expensive. However self-production will take a lot of time and require knowledge proper preparation solution.
  • For the concrete mixture, high grade cement is used (preferably 500), with four parts sand to one part of cement. Water is added to the consistency of village sour cream. For uniform and quick mixing, it is better to use a concrete mixer. If you want to get a painted border, you can add a special dye to the solution. The result will be a truly original design.
  • When pouring the solution into molds, it is necessary to ensure that air bubbles are removed, which reduce the strength of the product. The casting platform must be perfectly level (checked by level) and free from foreign objects. After a few hours, the solution will harden and you can carefully release the molds for a new batch. A day later, after additional drying, the borders are ready for installation.

  • The clear contours of the paths should be combined with the design of flower beds and play areas. Filling forms allow you to come up with different color solutions, delimiting zones while maintaining style.
  • The design and installation of borders requires a creative approach. Even inexpensive material and a simple design can look very attractive if everything is chosen and done with taste. If time permits, you can do all the work yourself. Hiring specialists, the owner country house expands styling options and the flight of your fantasies, but this will require additional funds.

There are many options for edging garden paths; all you need to do is use a little creativity to create a unique one. harmonious design fairy garden. Well-groomed, clean paths without soil from the site will delight both the owner and anyone who decides to walk along them.

Garden paths at the dacha are not only a high-quality marking of the site and its original decoration, but also the main canvas for movement around the territory, and this is the most important purpose. But it often happens that after winter this element of the landscape needs to be updated.

Yes, it is after a frosty winter and snow melting that we discover cracks and chips on many dacha objects, more serious defects and breakdowns that push us to immediate repairs. And this is very correct, because if a barn with small crack In the wall it may take several weeks, but the paths should be updated immediately, since it is easy to get injured on a poor-quality surface.

Today we want to tell you how to quickly and cheaply update and restore paths in your country house that have become unusable due to long periods of use or for other reasons.

Inexpensive replacement

If the old canvas is worn out, cracked and interferes with safe movement around the territory, sometimes it is more advisable to replace it altogether.

An inexpensive replacement can be standard concrete plates, which can be purchased at construction stores or poured out of the solution yourself. Concrete slabs for country paths last quite a long time if properly placed on the site, and they look very good if, for example, you decorate them with plants on the sides, lay a lawn along the path, and so on.

You can lay concrete slabs on the ground, or you can do it the right pillow from crushed stone, screenings and sand, creating a certain drainage layer. Filling occurs according to a self-created form. If there are ready-made slabs, then all that remains is to lay them according to the markings and seal the seams, perhaps plant them in the seams lawn grass.

Renewal by stone

Stone paths in the country are an expensive pleasure that not all of us can afford. Therefore, if you have finally decided and have already spent money on installation, then the paths should be properly cared for so that their service life lasts as long as possible.

Updating this landscape element in the spring is a fairly simple task, but only if the condition is more or less normal. If winter frosts and the scorching sun, as well as spring streams, have spoiled the base and surface, serious work lies ahead.

Broken stone and the most defective parts must be replaced completely. It is advisable to remove such pieces from the general canvas, lay a new embankment under them and place a new stone in place. The seams between the stone will need to be filled with the same material as before. Perhaps it was cement-sand mortar, sand, dry cement or other materials.

Be sure to take care of any damaged parts of the stone path, as further fractures are concentrated in such places. They are possible due to redistribution of load on the surface, stagnation of water, dirt.

If the path is generally old and requires overhaul, it is much easier to replace it completely by applying the knowledge and imagination already acquired. You can easily lay a new stone in the desired direction across the site, use decorative elements and get new views in the landscape design of your dacha.

Renewing paths on the lawn

Lawns are bright background all dacha area, and it’s very unpleasant when they are “cut” by low-quality tracks (and this is where they suffer the most). An improperly organized path on the lawn can accumulate moisture and be destroyed due to washouts and other problems, and therefore they are worth paying special attention to.

But what can’t help but rejoice is the update lawn paths considered the simplest. Here you can paint almost any picture with stone, even laying it out in intricate patterns that don’t look very natural in other areas of the site.

The stone can be laid new or not entirely, intertwined with green areas, or decorate part of the path with other elements, creating original combinations.

But if you have the opportunity, it is better to use new natural stone for restoration. To install it, it will be necessary to remove part of the lawn, lay a drainage cushion, compact the material in the prepared area, and sow the joints and seams with grass. As a result of a rather interesting process, you can not only update an element of the site, but also completely redesign the landscape.

Advantages of combined materials

Many prudent summer residents immediately build decorative combined paths, which are based on laying a variety of materials. Thus, on one plane one can observe different varieties stone, concrete, crushed stone, and even brick. In this case, if in the spring it is necessary to replace some parts, it will not be so difficult. You just have to use the material that is available. You won’t have to buy new brick or stone.

On the positive side is also that any pothole or poor quality material can be replaced with a small concrete slab. To do this, it is enough to remove the defective part, clean the pouring area, make a cushion and install the formwork in the shape that best suits the design. Next, just fill the openings with the solution and give it a little time to dry. After pouring, the formwork is removed and the seams are rubbed with sand, dry cement, or green grass is planted in them.

Forms for paths or complete replacement of the canvas

It is very convenient to use for the formation or restoration of paths special forms , of which there are plenty on sale today. You can always choose the dimensions, pattern, relief and other parameters at your own discretion, and then build the tracks according to a simplified scheme.

The same technology is used both in laying new and in restoring old paths. You make markings, prepare the surface, arrange the pouring and prepare the cement-sand mortar for pouring. Only now you don’t need to think about the formwork and try to draw the shape yourself, it is already completely ready. Place the mold at the beginning of the future path, pour it with the solution, let the solution dry a little, remove the mold and continue production.

When the concrete paths are completely dry, it will be necessary to fill the seams with screenings, sand, and plant grass.

Repair and renewal of embankment paths

Absolutely any coating can be replaced with bulk coating, which will absorb and drain water well, remain dry and reliable, complement the landscape of the dacha and serve for a maximum period of time.

If the asphalt, concrete or stone path at your dacha has become worn out, you can organize a simple restoration with virtually no cost. All you need is a certain amount of material. It can be crushed stone, granite chips, expanded clay or even sand.

You make markings around the territory, or simply along the boundaries of the old path that you are restoring, remove a certain layer, about 12-15 cm, so that the future path is level with the rest of the territory, and pour the material, compacting it well. Further, the boundaries can be laid with stone or brick for decoration and restrictions of the embankment.

The result of the simplest work is an excellent solution for the dacha - an embankment path that will last for many years without any problems.

Restoration and production of country paths (video)

Updating paths in the country can occur in other ways, using other materials and technologies, which we will definitely talk about later. Today we looked at the fastest, most practical and inexpensive methods for replacing and restoring canvas and now we want to hear your opinion about the article.

Reviews and comments

Oksana Dmitrievna 23.10.2014

Hello! I share mine interesting experience obtaining a rich harvest. I got it Nastya 09/12/2014

The garden paths in our dacha have long been a mess. They are many years old, so my husband and I have thought more than once about replacing the tracks. It turns out that this is not at all necessary, as I understood from this article, updating the old coating is not at all difficult. Perhaps this is for us the best option, how complete replacement garden paths.

Anya 06/11/2016

We have concrete paths in our yard. They are already old, with cracks and chips. The path has especially deteriorated in the place where the ground has subsided, and in the spring this place stands for a long time in a puddle of meltwater, which either freezes or melts. In the fall, my husband plans to dismantle the paths and make an embankment of soil so that later the paths will not be flooded with water. Then he will lay it down paving slabs.

Yuri 06/04/2017

were old concrete paths in the cracks. What was fighting back was beaten off. Then some of the paths were covered with a layer of sand + cement + liquid glass, and part without glass. The first part was a little sticky after the rains, then it became smooth. No cracks after winter. The second one showed small cracks. I’m figuring out how to fill them using glass.

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  • Location and type of garden paths – important factor, which largely determines the entire impression of the garden. Our detailed instructions will tell you how to give the site a finished look.

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    On the picture:

    1. What do you need to plan ahead?

    Location and number of tracks. Usually, other smaller paths branch off from the main and widest path. Think about which places on the site you will visit more often - the required density of the canvas depends on this. The planning of paths also depends on the topography of the site and the climatic features of the area.

    2. What material should I use?

    The art of imitation. There is an artificial stone on the market that imitates a cut tree - it looks just as good as natural wood, but more durable. Artificial stone, more durable and lighter, you can replace paving stones, cobblestones, pebbles, and bricks.

    Hard surfaces for the main road. The wide road leading from the gate to the porch or garage is subject to the greatest loads. It is better to choose monolithic concrete or slabs, stone (natural or artificial), brick, paving slabs.

    Soft coverings for small paths.“Secondary” paths are usually covered with embankment, soil, or even wooden flooring. A green garden path made of carefully planted grass also looks advantageous, but this option requires especially careful care and well-chosen surrounding plants.


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    3. How to design the base of the path?

    Using geotextiles. A geosynthetic fabric made of polymer fibers is placed at the bottom of the trench and between a layer of sand and gravel. Geotextiles do not rot, mold and fungi do not appear on it. The canvas protects the path from subsidence and prevents roots from growing garden plants. The use of geotextiles on heaving soils is especially important. Its thickness depends on the load on the track.

    4. How to lay hard surface?

    In the photo: a path from a project implemented by designer Svetlana Kudryavtseva and architect Oleg Likhachev.

    Depends on the soil. A trough is dug in stable soil, compacted, and geotextiles are laid. The crushed stone layer is leveled, water drainage is arranged and geotextiles are laid again. Next, sand is poured and compacted with water, and curbs are installed on the sides. Problematic soil may require a 5-centimeter sand cushion laid on a layer of geotextile. After laying, the crushed stone is poured cement-sand mixture, which can be reinforced metal mesh. If the road is made from monolithic concrete, do not forget about “expansion joints” to avoid the appearance of cracks.

    5. What is suitable for bulk coating?

    Coarse sand, stone chips, pebbles, wood. Even such exotic material as shell will do. pine nuts. Wood bark and wood chips must be treated with an anti-rotting compound. Lightweight materials will blow out over time, so upper layer needs to be updated from time to time.

    6. How to lay the bulk covering?

    In thin layers. Each layer is then compacted with a roller or vibrating plate. First, the trench is filled with a 10-centimeter layer of gravel, then a 15-centimeter layer of soil is laid. As an alternative, you can use a mixture of clay and sand in a ratio of 30 to 70. Such a path needs to be reinforced with geotextiles, make a slope, and then give the edges clarity.

    7. How to care for a wooden walkway?

    Soak in antiseptic and varnish. A wooden garden path is short-lived and susceptible to rotting, but it is pleasant to the touch and looks cozy. The 25-30 centimeter base of such a path is filled with several compacted layers of sand, then covered with gravel or crushed stone. Boards, bars, garden parquet, wooden cuts or hemp are placed on top.


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    \\\if you lift it, it’s safer

    8. Are curbs necessary?

    Yes, if you have a soft surface. The border will not only give it a neat look, but will also prevent the path from deforming. The material of the curb and the covering does not have to match. Brick, tiles, timber, wooden blocks, metal and plastic are equally suitable for designing paths. Don't be afraid of plastic - it's easy to install, looks neat and will last a long time. Hidden strip curbs made of steel are usually laid along paving paths.

    9. How to ensure water flow?

    Make a slope. The convex profile of the track should give a slope of approximately 2-3 cm from the axis to the edges. linear meter. It is better to do the slope in two directions, towards the drainage ditches. If the slope is more than 5 cm (for example, near an embankment path), the structure should be supplemented with a step.

    10. How to decorate the path?

    With the help of plants. Place a fertile mixture in the cracks between the stones and plant herbs, shrubs or flowers. Mosses will do, decorative types plantain, acena, thyme, fescue or tenacious.


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    On the picture:

    Other garden path projects on interiorexplorer.ru

    Path from a project implemented by architect Yuri Kulikov Path from the project of the architectural bureau 5 Radius Path from the project of the architectural bureau Arkanika

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    Smooth garden paths will decorate any garden plot, but to extend the durability of the coating, it is necessary to select the material for laying, based on the expected traffic and load on the path, and organize its reliable paving. The process of installing paving slabs is simple. The advantage of shaped paving elements is the ability to dismantle the material and then install it, and the finished path requires minimal maintenance. Let's look at the main points that are worth knowing so that home paving is successful.

    Choosing paving slabs

    The material used to pave garden paths can be clay, stone and even treated wood, but most paving slabs are made from concrete. Geometric shape, patterns and sizes of tiles (from 10x10 to 50x50 cm) are varied.

    Remember that if garden paths are subject to intensive use, then small block material fits better, although it will take more time to install it. It is better to place a path made of such paving slabs centrally, for example, a path from the gate to the house.

    Type of paving slabs Appearance Service life, years
    Vibro-pressed Simple shape and color 15-20
    Cast Various shapes, shiny and smooth surface, pattern possible 10-15

    Vibropressed tiles are suitable not only for garden paths, but even for parking or driving a car, because... this material is considered more durable and frost-resistant.

    Ceramic paving stones are more attractive in appearance than concrete blocks and preserve rich shade longer. Ceramic coating does not require special care.

    Useful tips for choosing paving slabs:

    1. The brightness of the material indicates a significant proportion of dyes in the composition of the tile, which is why its quality decreases: garden paths will have cracks, and the tile will begin to crumble.
    2. Before buying tiles in a store, check their quality by knocking one tile against another. If the sound is ringing, you have a product in front of you High Quality. If the sound is dull, then the tiles were not dried in accordance with the technology, and the material is of questionable durability.
    3. The material must be free of bright white or black stripes and uniform in color.
    4. The minimum frost resistance value (number of freezing-thawing cycles) should be 150.
    5. The thickness of paving slabs directly depends on the expected mechanical load, namely:
    • 4 cm – pedestrian movement;
    • 4-6 cm – people on bicycles or with wheelbarrows;
    • 6-8 cm – near the entrance or parking of a car;
    • 10 cm – movement trucks, but for a personal plot, tiles of this thickness are used extremely rarely.


    If a truck with wood or bricks comes to your site a couple of times a year, then it is enough to make garden paths from material 6-8 cm thick.

    Preparing the site for laying tiles

    The quality of preparatory work affects the durability of the paving, reduces the risk of tile sagging and prevents large material from spreading.


    "Dry" method

    1. Evenly remove the top layer of soil 30-40 cm thick. If the soil is clayey, then it is necessary to cover it with 5 cm of young slag or lay needle-punched geotextiles with a density of 300 g/sq.m. on top. If there is sand on the site, then it does not need additional preparation, since it is quite durable.
    2. Fill the ditches in layers gravel or crushed stone, compacting the base every 15 cm, which will reduce the volume of purchased material by 20%. It is better to purchase different fraction sizes and mix them while pouring - this will ensure better adhesion of the material and increase the density of the preparatory layer.
    3. Do backfilling with sand with a fraction of 1-4 mm, layer thickness - 3-5 cm. Some recommend making a backing from cement-sand mortar, but this can cause difficulties during dismantling and subsequent laying of the tiles. We recommend using a backing made from this solution in a place where water will penetrate into garden paths, for example, near trays for draining precipitation. To save beneficial features bedding, it is not recommended to walk on it.
    4. To ensure unhindered drainage of precipitation from paving slabs, we recommend laying bedding with cross slope up to 3% from the center of the paving to the edges. In situations where this cannot be done for a number of reasons, a two percent slope in one direction is allowed.
    5. Recommended the slope of the plot is 10%, on long-term terrain it is up to 14%. But if the cottage is located in an area with difficult terrain, we advise you to secure the movement of people and install a stepped path.

    "Wet" base for garden paths

    There is also a “wet” method of preparing the base for paving slabs, which will require more time and material. Features of the screed cement mortar– the area limit is 0.5 sq.m, so the path should be filled in sections. You can move on to the next one only after the previous one has completely hardened.


    Composition of the solution: cement M150 (1 part) mixed with sand (3 parts) and water (1 part). The thickness of the mortar is 2-3 cm, after which it must be compacted and all cracks covered with a dry mortar mixture. At the end of the “wet” method, the path is cleaned and it is ready for laying paving slabs.

    Paving paving slabs

    To lay the path you will need the following tools:

    • tape measure with level or theodolite;
    • shovel and wheelbarrow;
    • a tamping machine with a vibrating plate with an operating weight of 90 kg;
    • a rubber mallet or a wooden hammer if the previous one is not available;
    • trowel;
    • great;
    • Bulgarian.

    Lay the first row of paving slabs on the prepared surface so that the level protrudes 1 cm as planned (allowance for shrinkage during compaction). To ensure that garden paths have uniform colors, we recommend taking paving stones alternately from two different pallets.


    The gap between the tiles for ordinary footpaths is 2-3 cm; for a place for exiting or parking a car, a distance of 3-5 cm should be left between the tiles. The quality of the seams can be checked after paving in 3 rows, and the presence of depressions or bumps in the surface is checked every 6 rows.

    Grouting of joints is carried out by pouring sifted dry sand with fine fraction and rubbing it into the tiles with a brush or broom. Sweep away excess sand with a broom.

    Compact the surface of the path onto personal plot can be done in two ways: using a rammer and a vibrating plate, or rubber mallet. Compaction should be done in 2-3 passes, each time adding clean sand to the surface, thereby tightly filling all the cracks between the tiles. In the first month of operation of the path, it is also necessary to apply clean sand several times and sweep it away after a couple of days.

    Installation of borders

    Border blocks are the final link in paving. They play two functions: they separate garden paths from lawns and flower beds, preventing the destruction of paths. The evenness of the curbs is important, so they must be set according to the level.

    Modern products that serve as borders for paths are made from a mixture of concrete and plasticizers using vibration pressing, so they are resistant to natural factors and durable. In addition, dyes are added to the blocks, so you can diversify the landscape in your garden.


    To pave the curb, dig a trench one-third the height of the product and 5 cm wider than the curb stone. The stock will come in handy when pouring the solution. Thoroughly compact the soil in the trench and add a mixture of sand and cement (1:3).

    Place the blocks in the center of the trench to leave space on both sides for pouring the mortar, and also leave a 0.5 cm gap between the borders. Having paved all the elements of the fence, you can begin preparing the cement-sand mortar (the proportion is the same, but plus 1 part of water ). The mixture is kept for 24 hours, after which proceed to preparatory work for installing tiles.

    To make your garden paths original, make your own border blocks. Knock down the formwork from fiberboard or plywood sheets, connecting the parts with screw clamps. An alternative is to purchase ready-made forms.


    For cooking concrete mortar mix 1 part sand, 1 part cement, 2 parts small gravel. The mold needs to be greased with regular sunflower oil, pour the solution and wait until concrete mixture almost dry. The mass should not completely harden, because When removing the formwork, the shape of the curb can be easily deformed. After a few days, the products will be completely ready.

    Features of care

    Paths in your garden require regular maintenance, which will help you maintain the surface in good condition and extend its service life. Some simple rules will help you with this:

    • wash paving slabs with soapy water and a brush, and remove stains from machine oils with special solutions;
    • promptly break through the grass that has grown in the cracks between the tiles using a scraper;
    • Ice should be carefully removed with a plastic shovel, sprinkling the paths with sand, but not salt, because it will damage the paving stones over time.


    And don’t forget about the scheduled repairs of the path and immediately pay attention to tiles that have sagged or lost their strength. Individual elements It is enough to dismantle it with a screwdriver, make a new layer of bedding and restore the surface by compacting the garden paths with a rubber mallet.