Very often when moving to new apartment or after repairs in old apartment A household operation such as replacing or installing a chandelier is required. However, if this is done for the first time, practical difficulties arise. Not every home master knows how to connect a chandelier, especially if this lamp has several lamps, or is a device equipped with a controller and remote control remote control.
Before starting work, you need to prepare the tool:
In addition, you will need devices for connecting wires. These can be blocks where the wires are clamped under a screw, connecting insulating PPE clamps, or Wago spring clamps. The chandelier connection diagram depends on the number of light sources and the type of switch. So we have a ceiling hole with three wires coming out, ceiling hook for hanging chandeliers and lamps that can have a different number of lamps.
First of all, you need to deal with ceiling wiring. Unlike the European standard, where the color and purpose of the wire are strictly regulated, our craftsmen often use the mounting wire that is available, so we first determine the purpose of each wire. Of the three wires, one is necessarily neutral, and the other two wires supply the phase through the switch keys.
Sequence of work:
This chandelier connection diagram provides three lighting brightness modes and involves connecting the chandelier to a two-key switch:
This is the answer to the question of how to connect a two-key chandelier.
The next stage of work is to determine the electrical connections of the chandelier itself, but it should be borne in mind that they may not exist. Most manufactured chandeliers have a three-wire circuit, and to understand how to connect a chandelier with 3 wires, it is enough to look at the product data sheet. There is a lamp grouping diagram, for example, if a chandelier has 5 lamps, then they are combined into two groups with different numbers light sources.
The diagram shows a common wire that will be connected to the neutral wire coming from the ceiling, and the two remaining wires are connected to the two phase wires coming from the switch. Therefore, the question of how to connect a chandelier to a switch is not too difficult. The same as connecting a chandelier with 3 wires. If there is no diagram, then the common wire always has a different color than the two phase wires.
To connect the wires to each other, use the devices indicated above. As a last resort, you can use regular twisting of wires using electrical tape, but this method is the least reliable.
How to connect a chandelier if it does not have indoor installation, and all connections must be made by the user himself, as it is convenient for him. For example, we have a chandelier with 6 lamps, and 12 wires come out of it, usually of two colors. This means that each lamp is output separately and the chandelier does not have internal connections. Connecting such a chandelier is not difficult; in addition, chandeliers of this type are intended for use in modern lighting systems that require the use of a special controller that allows you to turn on any number of lamps, as well as the use remote control management.
If such a chandelier is connected without a controller, then 6 wires of the same color must be connected to each other - this will be zero, and the remaining 6 wires of a different color must be combined into two groups, for example, equally, that is, three wires in a group. As a result we will get classic scheme, which is connected to a two-key switch according to the method described above.
This is easy to do if a decorative suspended ceiling is installed, for example, in the bathroom and toilet. Then you can build wires behind the ceiling and control the lighting in these two rooms using one switch. Same everything electric installation work can be done behind suspended ceilings in living rooms.
In order to get a complete understanding of how to connect a chandelier, you should watch the corresponding video and then solving the question of how to connect a chandelier will seem like a very simple matter.
The most modern version household lighting systems are lamps using a controller and remote control. LED matrices are usually used as light sources.
The controller allows you to turn on a large number of light sources, in any configuration, and additional programs allow you to use such a system as a design element that performs the function of a color and music installation. In order to understand how to connect a chandelier with a remote control, you need to carefully read the instructions.
This system consists of a base unit and a remote control. The controller is usually located in the decorative body of the chandelier-shade. The phase is connected to the “L” terminal of the controller, and zero is connected to the “N” terminal. A group of lamp lamps is connected by one side (wires) and connected to zero, and the free wires are connected to the corresponding controller outputs. The instructions describe in detail programming the lighting system using the remote control.
Connection ceiling chandelier can be done in two main ways:
In both cases, you get the most important thing from the lamp. Either the chandelier shines at maximum brightness using all the bulbs, or the lamp works with incomplete output, creating a pleasant illumination that does not hurt the eyes.
Let's consider these methods step by step, starting from connecting the cable in the switchboard, and ending with connecting the wires in the chandelier itself. Special attention will be paid to the most common mistakes when performing this work.
How to connect a chandelier via double switch
In order to make this connection, purchase the following materials:
First of all, take a three-core cable VVGnG-Ls 3*1.5mm2 and stretch it along the groove to the nearest junction box near the chandelier. 
Leave some reserve in it for cutting and connecting the ends.
In the electrical panel, remove the insulation from the cable and connect the phase conductor (let it be conditionally white) to a single-pole circuit breaker. 
Place the yellow-green and blue wires in the appropriate places (ground and neutral bars). 
It is advisable to mark the stripped cable in the junction box so as not to confuse anything in the future. 
Now, with another 3-core cable from the distribution box under the ceiling, to the mounting box below, where you will have a two-key switch, you need to make a lowering.
You immediately clean the veins and sign: 
They need to be signed both on the switch below and in the top box. 
Peel off the insulation from both ends and apply markings: 
Now the most important thing. It all needs to be assembled correctly and connected together in the upper junction box. 
In order not to confuse or make mistakes, the inscriptions made earlier will come in handy. With them, all switching is much simpler.
Take Wago terminals and simply connect the wires with the same markings. 
After which the box can be closed.
Lead the main power supply L to the common terminal of switch 1. 
Usually it is separate, but not all manufacturers have this design. Be careful! 
L1 and L2 are connected to the lower terminals 3,4. 
Install the protective and decorative strips and go back up to the chandelier. 
Here the question may arise: how can you find out which wires protruding from the chandelier are phase and which are neutral?
Especially if they are the same color. There can be 3,4,5 depending on the type of lamp and the number of its horns. 
This is where a multimeter will come to the rescue. You need to call the wires below, when the chandelier is not yet suspended from the ceiling.
According to the rules, the zero should come to the threaded part of the socket and the light bulb (outer contacts), and the phase to the central contact pin. 
Switch the multimeter to the continuity test or resistance measurement mode, and sequentially touch the wires and contact parts of the sockets on each lamp with the probes. You need to achieve a sound signal or find where the resistance is zero. 
If there are several zero wires, twist them into one common one.
Proceed to direct connection. To make the sequence easier, first connect protective grounding and a zero core. To do this, use connecting sleeves. 
Although Vago terminals can also be used here.
After connecting the ground and zero, it remains to power two phases. Select any of the cores and press the supply wires L1 and L2 with sleeves onto the two phase wires on the lamp. 
All that remains is to fix the chandelier on the ceiling and check its functionality.
How to connect a chandelier via a dimmer
Required material for installation:
The initial stage of installing a 3-wire power cable from the panel to the distribution box is the same as in the previously considered option. The connection in the panel is again made to a single-pole circuit breaker. 
The difference is that now it is not a three-core, but a two-wire cable that goes down to the place where the dimmer is installed. It should be marked as follows: 
Apply three inscriptions to its conductors in places where the insulation has been stripped: 
After that, in the box using Vago clamps, connect the wires according to all the inscriptions. 
Connect identically marked wires to each other. 
Move to the dimmer at the bottom. Connect the main power phase that comes from the electrical panel (previously you labeled it as L) to the dimmer terminal labeled “L” or “phase”. 
Clamp the other core labeled “Chandelier” under the screw with the dimmable load icon. 
On the chandelier, the phase conductor labeled “Chandelier” is connected through a pressed sleeve to the supply wire of the lamp. 
If you have several phase conductors coming out of the lamp (two, three, four arm chandeliers), then to connect the load through a dimmer, simply twist them into one common conductor. 
All that remains is to connect zero and ground, apply voltage and check the functionality of the entire structure.
Frequent connection errors
The main errors are related to the connection to the double switch. Three of them are the most common.
How does a normal chandelier connection diagram work, for example, two or three arms? There is a phase that comes into the junction box. 
In this case, the zero only comes into the box and immediately goes to the chandelier, without going down to the switch. 
This is where the first mistake lies. Many people, out of ignorance or by mixing up the markings, lower both phase and zero down to the switch.
They turn it on the terminals, after which they start to turn on the key, and their machine knocks out.
Remember, zero should never enter the switch, but only phase. The zero wire should immediately go to the ceiling.
The second error is again related to zero. By mixing up the two wires, you can switch the switch to zero instead of phase. 
It may even be that everything will work fine for you, but the voltage will be constantly present on the lamp. This can result in an electric shock when you want to change the light bulbs.
By turning off the key, you will break the zero wire, and the phase will still go directly to the chandelier horn sockets.
What else is dangerous about such a connection? Through the filaments of the light bulb, the phase will arrive at the terminal clamps of the switch itself. If you remove the cover from it and start checking the glow on the contacts with an indicator screwdriver, you will be very surprised. 
Even when the keys are turned off, the indicator will light up and show the presence of voltage on both one and the other terminal.
Moreover, if you make a similar measurement under the ceiling on a chandelier, you will also find the presence of voltage on all three wires, except for the ground wire. 
To make this effect disappear, just unscrew the light bulbs from the lampshades.
The third error occurs when connecting the phase supply wire to the switch, not to the main common contact, but to one of the outgoing ones. In this case, only half of the chandelier will glow. 
Before starting work on connecting the chandelier, I recommend that you familiarize yourself with its structure.
Contacts for connecting to the electrical wiring wires on the chandelier are indicated by the following Latin letters:
Markings on chandeliers have only recently begun, and chandeliers produced a long time ago may not have markings. In this case, you will have to figure it out yourself.
In modern chandeliers with metal fittings, a grounding wire is installed yellow-green colors. The ground wire is designated in Latin letters RE. If the apartment's electrical wiring is made with a grounding wire (it must be yellow-green, but can be of any color), then it also needs to be connected to the terminal to which it is connected yellow-green chandelier wire.
In houses old building Apartment electrical wiring is usually made without a grounding conductor. Old chandeliers or those with plastic fittings also do not have a grounding conductor. In such cases, the grounding conductor is not connected; it will not affect the performance of the chandelier, since it only performs a protective function.
In the photographs, the wires coming out of the ceiling and chandelier are shown in white, and this is no coincidence. There is no single international standard for the color marking of wires in the electrical network, and even more so in chandeliers. And in Russia, the color marking of electrical wires has changed since January 1, 2011. Only the PE ground wire is marked yellow-green in the specifications of all countries color.
Attention! Before connecting the chandelier, to avoid damage electric shock, it is necessary to de-energize the electrical wiring. To do this, turn off the corresponding circuit breaker in the distribution panel and check the reliability of the shutdown using the phase indicator.
Despite the variety of models, all chandeliers, including LED chandeliers with remote control, are connected according to one of the schemes discussed below. To connect, it is enough to connect the wires coming out of the ceiling correctly to the terminals of the terminal installed on the chandelier body. The work is simple and anyone can do it home handyman, even without electrical experience.
Connecting a single-arm chandelier, consisting of one light bulb, and a single-key switch in the electrical wiring usually does not cause difficulties. It is enough to connect two wires coming out of the ceiling using any type of terminal block with the wires coming out of the base of the chandelier.
Although, according to the requirements of the PUE, twisting of electrical wires is currently prohibited, but in hopeless situation, taking into account the fact that the chandelier consumes low current, you can temporarily connect the chandelier using the twisting method, followed by isolating the connection.
According to the requirements of the PUE, to increase operational safety, the phase wire in the electrical cartridge must be connected to the central contact, and the switch must open the phase wire. It is advisable to follow this rule. But in practice, no one thinks about this; they usually connect the switch and chandelier as needed.
If a chandelier has several arms, but only two wires come out of it, it means that all the light bulbs inside the chandelier are connected in parallel, and such a chandelier is connected according to the above diagram.
Let's consider a more complex option for connecting a chandelier; the wires in it are connected to make it possible to turn on each light bulb separately. For our case, all pairs of wires from the cartridges, regardless of their number, must be connected in parallel. One option is to install an additional jumper made of wire (pictured Pink colour).
You can do without installing a jumper. It is enough to unscrew the screws at the first and third terminals, remove the wire coming from the left socket from the first terminal, and insert it into the third, along with the right wire coming from the right socket.
Typically three wires come out of the ceiling if a two-gang switch is installed. First of all, you need to deal with the wires coming out of the ceiling - find the common wire. This is easy to do if you have a phase indicator.
To search for a common wire, you need to turn on both keys on the switch and sequentially touch each wire with an indicator probe. Depending on which wire opens the switch, phase or neutral, two options for the indicator’s behavior are possible.
Without a phase indicator, it’s also easy to figure out the connection. You need to connect any two wires from the ceiling to the chandelier and turn on both switch keys. If the light comes on, it means that the connection has been made with the common wire and one of the wires coming from the switch. You can leave it like that. If you want to understand the wires completely, you need to brute-force the connection so that when both keys on the switch are turned on, the light does not come on. This way you can find the wires coming from the switch.
All that remains is to clamp the common wire and any other wire coming from the ceiling with a pair of chandelier wires into the terminal. If you need to connect a chandelier so that the light is turned on by any of the two switch keys, then place a jumper (pink in the photo) or clamp the wires, which are connected by a jumper in the photo, in one terminal. The jumper can be installed not in the terminal block, but in the switch.
If you want not all the bulbs of a multi-light chandelier to turn on at the same time, but in groups, then the chandelier must be connected according to the diagram below. Required condition is the presence of a two-key switch. You need to connect a two- or three-arm chandelier according to the method described above. A common wire is determined from three coming out of the ceiling. One wire from pairs coming from each chandelier socket is connected to it.
The remaining two wires are connected to the remaining free conductors from the pairs coming from the chandelier sockets. It will be much easier to cope with connecting a multi-arm chandelier if you become familiar with its structure.
In a large room, or if there is a suspended ceiling, for good lighting you have to install several chandeliers or spotlights mounted in the ceiling, which must be turned on simultaneously with one single-key switch.
Sometimes it is necessary to connect the switch in such a way that it can turn on the lights in two, three or more rooms at the same time. In this case, chandeliers or lamps are connected in parallel, like several sockets in one chandelier, according to the following diagram.
Each chandelier in the diagram is connected to the switch through a separate junction box, but all connections can be made in one junction box, it all depends on the wiring diagram in the room. If each chandelier has many horns, then they are connected in parallel, as for the connection case discussed above, when two wires come out of the ceiling, and three or more from the chandelier.
If in one or more rooms you need to turn on each chandelier separately from one three-key switch, then you should connect the chandeliers according to the diagram below.
This option for connecting lamps is often used to control lamps installed in the bathroom, toilet and kitchen. One three-key switch is installed in the corridor, and the corresponding chandelier is turned on before entering the room.
Sometimes it is necessary to install an additional socket next to the switch. If necessary, it is advisable to replace the installed switch with a block consisting of switches and a socket, for example Viko (Viko), shown in the photo. There are from one key to four switches for a chandelier in a block. So there is an opportunity to choose the right one. The photo shows a two-key unit with LED backlighting and one socket.
You need to connect the switch block with a socket to the chandelier according to the diagram below. As you can see, the circuit is not much different from connecting a chandelier to an ordinary switch, with the exception of an additional wire running from the neutral wire to the left terminal of the socket.
In the diagram, the connection of wires is shown in accordance with the requirements of the PUE; in real wiring, zero and phase can be connected in reverse. If, for example, there was a two-key switch, but you need a single-key switch with a socket, then you can not lay an additional wire, but use a free one, switching it in the distribution box to zero or phase, depending on which wire goes to the switch.
Now, when renovating an apartment, they began to install suspended ceilings. Tension ones are especially popular. They have a magnificent appearance, practically do not wear out, come in any color with a glossy or matte surface, and are not afraid of water. Stretch ceiling are installed at a distance of 5-10 cm below the existing ceiling plane, so the length of the conductors for connecting the lamps becomes insufficient. It is necessary to increase their length.
The complexity of the task lies in the fact that it will be impossible to get to the place where the wires are spliced to connect a chandelier or other lamps after installing the ceiling without dismantling it. This means that the connection must be made in the most reliable way. Connecting wires in hard to reach places using a terminal block is not a reliable type of connection. The screws in the terminal block may become loose over time and will need to be tightened.
The website article “Connection of broken wires in the wall” discusses in detail in photographs the methods of connecting aluminum and copper wires each other, just suitable for extending wires to connect a chandelier or other lamps. For a reliable connection when extending aluminum wires with copper, I recommend reading the article “How to connect aluminum wires”. To extend the wires to connect the chandelier to the pendant suitable for the ceiling one of the methods described in the article, threaded or permanently riveted.
If the chandelier is equipped with six hundred-watt incandescent light bulbs designed for a supply voltage of 220 V, then the current consumption will not exceed 3 A. A copper conductor with a cross-section of 0.5 mm 2 can withstand such current, and standard apartment wiring is usually made with wires with a cross-section of at least 2.5 mm 2. So, when connecting a chandelier with 220 V light bulbs, you don’t have to worry about the wire cross-section. When connecting a chandelier with LED lamps You also don’t have to worry about the cross-section of the wire.
When connecting a chandelier or lamps with halogen bulbs to a voltage of 12 V, the current consumption becomes much greater, and the cross-section of the wire in the wiring section from the step-down transformer or adapter to the chandelier lamps must be calculated using the online calculator below and check its compliance.
The current consumption of which is tens of times less than that of incandescent lamps.
Connecting a chandelier to the lighting wiring is integral part any repairs both in the apartment and in a separate room. And although this operation associated with work in electrical circuits, absolutely anyone can cope with it. You just need to follow certain rules, and then the work will be done quickly, efficiently, and the question of how to connect the chandelier correctly will not arise.
The most important requirements when working with electrical wiring are compliance with safety rules and rules for installing electrical devices. There is no point in studying the “bible” of electricians: “Rules safe operation electrical installations of consumers" (PBEEP) and "Rules for the construction of electrical installations" (PUE). Such documentation is necessary mainly for those people for whom working with electricity is their main activity. For home renovation To connect a chandelier with a switch, you just need to know and follow simple rules.
Wiring diagram for a chandelier with a double switch
As can be seen from the figure, there are three wires suitable for the double switch, one of which comes from the junction box, and the other two are used to connect the lamp. Therefore, when installing new wiring, you need to use a cable with 3 wires.
Connecting a chandelier to a double switch follows the same rules as connecting a regular lamp.
Quite often you can hear from non-professional advisers that the switch can be installed on any wire. Like, what difference does it make, because when the contacts are open, no current flows through the lamp and that’s enough. This is wrong. The fact is that if the switch breaks the neutral conductor, then no current will flow through the chandelier lamps, but there will be a phase potential on all wires, which threatens an electric shock during work.
A less dangerous, but unpleasant feature of such switching is that fluorescent lamps and “housekeeper” lamps can glow faintly or flicker even in the off position.
To connect a chandelier or other lamp you will need the following:
The purpose of most tools is clear without comment. Why do you need a knife? In some cases, namely when stripping insulation from single-core conductors electric cable, side cutters or pliers cannot be used, since a transverse cut of the core on the connected wire will lead to its fracture. This is especially true for aluminum wires.
The insulation must be cut with a sharp knife, similar to how a pencil is sharpened. Longitudinal scratches on wire strands are not dangerous.
The indicator screwdriver is used to search for the phase conductor. And although its end allows for use as a screwdriver, this is not necessary, since mechanical strength The indicator is very small and it is almost impossible to tighten the screw properly without breaking the tool (it is possible, but the tool will not last long).
You should dwell in more detail on measuring instruments. They are digital and pointer. For most parameters, digital is preferable. They have high accuracy, are not afraid of shocks and falls from a height, protected from overload.
The pointer device should be used only in the position for which it is intended (most portable devices should be placed horizontally); a fall from a height will with a 100% probability disable it, as will overload if the regulator is incorrectly set. The undoubted advantage of a pointer device is that voltage measurements can be made without a built-in power source.
Note for all types of devices: the operating range must provide for measuring an alternating voltage of at least 500 V.
To facilitate the continuity of wires and eliminate errors, color marking of the insulation of conductors in the cable is used. Generally accepted standard is the marking of the grounding conductor yellow with a green stripe.
You should never use a conductor with this color to connect devices! This conductor is used for grounding only.
For the zero (neutral) conductor, conductors with blue or light blue colors are used. Phase conductors may have different colors other than those listed.
Problems arise when working in houses with old wiring. Once upon a time, the insulation of wires was made the same for all cores, so before starting work it was necessary to test the wires.
First of all, you need to check that the switch is connected correctly. In the open position, the indicator screwdriver should show the presence of a phase on one of the conductors. If the phase cannot be found, this means that the switch is not connected correctly or there are problems in the distribution box.
In the place of the ceiling where the lamp will be installed, there must be at least two wires coming out - neutral and phase from the switch. When connecting a multi-arm chandelier, the number of wires may be large. One of them remains neutral, the number of others corresponds to the number of keys on the switch.
Determining the purpose of each wire is very simple. When the switch is on, only one of the wires should not have voltage. The rest should cause the indicator to glow. By turning off the light switch keys one by one, you can determine which wire corresponds to a particular key.
When checking measuring instrument you need to find a wire relative to which voltage will be present on the other wires. This wire will be zero. The device will show no voltage between the remaining wires. Next, leaving one of the device probes connected to the neutral wire, turn off the switch keys one by one to determine the identity of the wires.
Connecting the luminaire wires to the lighting wiring can be done by soldering, twisting and using special adapter terminal blocks.
Soldering is the most reliable method, but it is quite difficult to do at heights of limited space between the base of the chandelier and the ceiling. Therefore, this method is practically not used.
Twisting can only be used when twisting conductors of approximately the same diameter. Single and multi-core wires must not be twisted together.
Such a connection forms an electrochemical couple and, in the presence of even traces of humidity in the room, quickly oxidizes, causing a breakdown in contact and heating the joint. Most fires are caused by poor wiring connections.
The twisted area must be carefully wrapped with insulating tape so that the tape touches the insulation of both wires being connected. It is better to use special insulating caps.
Most the best way connections – use of connecting terminals. You can find a wide variety of terminal types on sale - from simple screw terminals to spring terminals.
It may happen that the old chandelier had several groups of lamps and was turned on from a two-key switch, and after the repair it was decided to install a regular single-arm switch. Or vice versa, instead of a simple chandelier, a multi-arm chandelier was installed. How to properly connect the lamp?
If more wires come out from the double switch (and from the ceiling, respectively, to the chandelier) than are necessary to connect the chandelier (most often - four, one of which is grounding), then the most radical way is to replace the switch and leave some of the wires free.
Can you connect a simple chandelier to the double switch. You can combine the wires coming from different switch keys. The connection can be made on the ceiling in front of the chandelier connection block or in the switch itself (in this case, the second wire to the chandelier must be left free). Then the chandelier will be turned on by any key, and to turn it off you need all the keys to be in the off position.
If you do not repair the wiring, then connecting a chandelier with two arms or more to two wires is possible in only one way - by combining all separate groups of lamps into one.
As a last resort, if the wiring allows, you can use two switches.
The situation is completely different when connecting a modern chandelier with a remote control. Regardless of the number of groups of light bulbs, the connection of the chandelier to the switch is carried out by wiring with two wires, and the switching of different groups of lamps is carried out by a control unit located in the luminaire.
When buying a new three-arm chandelier, everyone pays attention to the many wires inside and asks the question, how to connect the wires in the chandelier?
Many chandeliers, especially those imported from China, do not have the necessary connections inside. Therefore, for example, before connecting a chandelier with three lamps to a switch with two keys, you need to decide how many separate groups of light bulbs there will be. Lamps belonging to the same group must be connected in parallel. Typically, each light bulb socket will have a pair of wires coming out of it in two colors, usually blue or black and brown. For example, a three-arm chandelier will have 6 wires inside. Wires of the same color must be twisted together. This is done with each group of light bulbs.
Next, the blue wires from each group are also connected together and one wire is brought out from them, which will then be connected to the neutral conductor. Separate wires are also taken out from the other connections and connected to the wires from the switch.
Connecting a five-arm chandelier is no more difficult than connecting any chandelier with two-button switch.
Connecting a five-arm chandelier with 5 lamps usually means dividing it into two groups with 2 and 3 lamps in each. And then the connection diagram will be no different from installing a chandelier with three wires.
When connecting the wires inside the chandelier using twists, you must carefully insulate them. Installation is greatly simplified when using special terminals. The most common are Wago terminals.
The figure clearly shows that the wires connected together of blue color connected to the neutral wire, brown wires divided into two groups - to separate wires from the two-key switch.
When connecting several lamps to one switch, they are also connected in parallel.
New buildings to comply existing standards must be equipped with electrical wiring with grounding conductors. As already mentioned, such wires are marked with yellow-green colors. In this case, for a chandelier with two groups of lamps, 4 wires will come out of the ceiling: grounding, neutral and two phase, from the switch.
Fixtures with metal parts are usually provided with a grounding terminal. Therefore, when connecting a lamp, you must also remember to ground it to the chandelier. If there is no ground terminal, the ground wire does not need to be connected. You just need to insulate it and hide it under the lamp body.
What is a chandelier? This is modern ceiling lamp with several lamps equally spaced from each other. The main task of a chandelier is to provide even, shadow-free lighting throughout the entire room. Incandescent, LED or fluorescent light sources can be used as light sources. Installing a chandelier is the final part of interior design. Its installation is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. Minimum electrical skills and standard kit required simple tools. To make the installation simple and safe, you can follow the following instructions.
First you need to decide how many wires are on the ceiling and what they are needed for. Two protruding wires mean that all the lamps will turn on at the same time, three or more allow you to combine them with the order in which they turn on. An experienced electrician can figure this out without difficulty, but it will be difficult for beginners to figure out where the phase and zero are, and what to do with grounding.
It is found only in newly built houses or in premises where repairs have been made taking into account all the requirements for the installation of electrical wiring. It has a yellow-green sheath and connects to a wire of the same color on the lamp. Older houses may not have it. If there is no place for grounding in the chandelier connector, then the wire must be insulated to prevent a short circuit.
The remaining wires can be of any color - red, black, white, and the color of the wire does not necessarily correspond to “phase” or “zero”. To accurately determine where each wire ends, you need to ring with a special tester or an indicator screwdriver - a device with a built-in LED that indicates the presence of voltage. The test is carried out with the network turned on and the position wall switch"ON". We touch the bare ends of the wires one by one and see the result. The phase will light up with a light on the indicator screwdriver, and the multimeter will show a voltage value of 220 V. It should be noted that the tester will only show the voltage between zero and phase. For a switch with one key, it’s even simpler - two wires on the ceiling, one of them is zero, and the second is phase. Before starting work on connecting the lamp, it is necessary to de-energize the wires; it is advisable to do this by turning off the switch on the meter.
The simplest and most common option is two wires on the ceiling and two wires on the chandelier, and a single-key switch installed on the wall. We just connect the ends together. It is advisable to connect in such a way that the neutral wire goes directly to the chandelier, and the phase is opened by a switch. For installation, you can use special blocks or twisting followed by insulation.
With two phases and a two-gang switch, the following options are possible. One phase is isolated, the second is connected to the chandelier. In this case, one key remains unused. The phases are interconnected and connected to the chandelier wire. Then the lamp will be turned on using any key.
Two or more arm chandeliers are always connected according to the same principle. From each lamp there are two multi-colored wires, we collect them all and divide them into three groups - two phases and zero. We twist all the wires of the same color together. This will be zero, according to the standard the wires should be blue, but if another is used, it’s okay. We divide the remaining wires in any form into two groups, thus obtaining circuits for switching on lamps 1+3, 2+2, 2+3. We twist the wires together and then connect them to the corresponding terminals on the ceiling.
What to do if there are two wires in the ceiling, and 3 or more in the lamp. In this connection diagram, wires of the same color are grouped. One twist will be connected to the neutral wire, the second to the phase. When turned on, all lamps in the chandelier will light up simultaneously.
Jokes with electricity are bad, so we do all the work according to the rules. It is not enough to simply clamp a twist of several wires into a terminal or wrap it with electrical tape. It is necessary to solder all such connections, after which it will become more durable, the contact will be better, and it will heat up less. The next step is to connect the chandelier wires to the wires coming from the switch. The use of twisting is unacceptable, so terminal boxes are used. If they are not included in the kit, you can purchase them at any hardware store. When a thick twist does not fit into the clamp hole, you can try to solder a copper contact of the required thickness to it, but not less than 0.5 mm2 in cross-section. Or buy a terminal box bigger size, if space in the lamp allows. Then the chandelier rises to the ceiling, the zero and phase wires are finally connected, all the screws are pulled through, after which it is finally fixed in its place.
Chandeliers from the Middle Kingdom are very widely represented on the market. Due to their low price and huge selection, they are popular among the population, but difficulties arise with the electric filling. It is recommended to carry out preliminary tests before installing it and connecting it to the network. Let's start with a visual inspection: sloppy connections, thin wires, a weak layer of insulation on them should already alert you. To check the quality of the insulation, you can collect all the wires together and try to short them to the housing through a tester. The device should not give any readings. If this is not the case, then the chandelier must be disassembled and the cause eliminated. Then the contact in each horn is checked separately. To do this, the circuit running from the cartridge to the end of the wire is called. At this stage, it is possible to calculate the wire coming from the central contact in the cartridge for its subsequent attachment to the phase, as required by the standard and safety standards.
The operating principle of halogen lamps is based on the operation of an incandescent filament in a filler gas with special additives (bromine, iodine). Thanks to this, it is possible to reduce the overall size of the lamp and the voltage to 12 or 24 V. For this, a step-down transformer is installed in each lamp of this type. Usually the entire circuit is already assembled and ready for use, two wires remain free, which are connected to zero and phase in random order. If the chandelier is equipped with a remote control, then the control unit is also connected to the transformer. The connection in this case remains the same. Do not confuse the connection wires with the antenna, which receives the signal from the remote control.
