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Instructions
The most common cause of blackening of leaves is dry air. Leaves deteriorate even on plants that are regularly watered by caring owners. But many inhabitants are very sensitive to dust and air humidity. If these parameters do not meet their needs, the plants get sick. This is especially true for inhabitants of the tropics. For example, owners of dracaenas regularly face this problem. The medicine should always be on hand. This is the most common one, which needs to be used no less regularly than a watering can.
Spathiphyllum is a symbol of female happiness, so when its leaves begin to turn yellow, the owner may think about impending trouble and grief. But this phenomenon has specific reasons that are not at all related to the future. The flower is sick and needs urgent help.
If the leaves begin to turn yellow, the first thing you need to think about is the conditions for keeping the spathiphyllum. Often the flower suffers due to improper temperature conditions and insufficient humidity.
Not proper care and lack nutrients
These are the two most common reasons yellow spots. The plant tells its owner that it is suffering due to irregular watering and dry air. But this does not mean that you need to significantly increase the amount of water; this will lead to rotting of the root system and death of the plant. Increase watering gradually and monitor the condition of the spathiphyllum.
We must not forget about spraying. The flower does not tolerate proximity to heating devices. Place a tray with wet pebbles next to the pot, spray the leaves every day and sometimes arrange warm shower. If the spathiphyllum is in a draft or in a cold room, it is better to find another place for it.
The leaf turns completely yellow - there are not enough nutrients in the soil. This problem can be solved in two ways: regularly feed the plant or choose a larger pot for it and replant the spathiphyllum. If the leaf veins remain green, the flower does not have enough magnesium. At the same time, it stops growing and becomes lethargic.
Pests and diseases
But the reason yellow leaves in spathiphyllum can be much more dangerous than improper care. Pests can cause plant death: thrips and mealybugs, as well as fungal diseases.
To get rid of these uninvited guests, first, insecticide treatment is carried out, then the plant is transplanted into another soil and fed after 14 days. Before transplanting, you need to carefully examine the spathiphyllum bush, cut off the affected parts and treat healthy areas with a fungicide.
Spathiphyllum or “Women's Happiness” is an elegant and very beautiful indoor plant that is very popular among gardeners.
It attracts attention with its exotic colors and can decorate any room. Caring for the plant is very simple, but sometimes some difficulties and problems arise when growing it. Spathiphyllum loses its decorative qualities due to drying or blackening of the tips of the leaves. Knowing the reasons for such changes in the appearance of a flower, you can cope with this problem.
Negative changes that begin to occur with a houseplant and its development are in most cases associated with improper maintenance conditions. Spathiphyllum is a tropical plant; its appearance will certainly react negatively if there is an excess or lack of moisture, air humidity or lighting. The decorative qualities of the plant directly depend on proper care.
For the full growth and development of spathiphyllum, it is necessary to create comfortable conditions. Diseases, the symptoms of which are drying or turning black leaves, can occur for several reasons. It is very important to notice the onset of the disease in time and take all necessary measures to save the indoor plant, and for this you need to know the characteristics of spathiphyllum and the conditions of its natural origin.
A tropical flower needs timely and proper watering, as well as the corresponding level of air humidity (approximately 70%). The plant will retain its attractiveness at home only with moderate and regular watering and spraying of the leaf part. It is recommended to blot excess moisture with a thin cloth or paper napkin. An excess of moisture in the soil should not be allowed, as this will lead to rotting of the root system and death of the entire plant.
Spathiphyllum tolerates dry indoor air very painfully. Under such conditions, the tips of the leaves begin to dry out and gradually change color to dark. The appearance of the plant gives a signal that urgent moisture is needed in the form of spraying from a spray bottle. Tropical plant in room conditions A moderately humid environment is required. It is important to take into account the air temperature in the room during such “water procedures”. In cool conditions, over-spraying can cause the plant's roots to die.
Blackened tips of spathiphyllum leaves can signal a lack of nutrition and fertilizing. The required quality and quantity of fertilizers will help decide this problem. In the period from March to September, the houseplant is fed three to four times a month, and in the remaining months (and especially during the dormant period) once every thirty days will be enough. The fertilizer must contain all the necessary nutritional elements for blooming indoor plants.
A large number of fertilizers and their frequent application to the soil, as well as an excess of certain nutrients will only bring a negative result. When dry tips appear on the leaves, the frequency of fertilizing should be reduced and the composition of the fertilizer should be reviewed. Excess minerals, for example, harm a houseplant and spoil its external characteristics. As a life-saving measure, it is necessary to urgently rid the flower of all damaged leaves, and temporarily suspend the application of fertilizing. The indoor flower will gradually recover.
Water for watering spathiphyllum should only be used room temperature and definitely defended. Not only the condition of the leaves, but also the full development of everything depends on the softness of the water. indoor flower.
The volumes of irrigation water also have great importance. An excess of water leads to stagnation in the soil and rotting of the roots. It is recommended to water the plant again only after the top layer of soil has completely dried. 1.5-2 hours after watering, the plants must be drained excess water from a flower tray.
An unfavorable effect on the plant, and ultimately blackening of the leaves, has incorrect choice places to place indoor flowers. Optimal place for spathiphyllum - this is a window sill on any side of the house except the north. Straight sunlight and poor lighting adversely affects the decorative qualities of a pet. It is necessary to protect it from sunburn, and in autumn winter period use additional lighting with fluorescent lamps.
The foliage receives the necessary amount of moisture with regular and abundant spraying in the warm summer months, and especially in hot weather. From such weekly bathing the flower " woman's happiness"will look healthy and attractive.
Yellow leaves of spathiphyllum appear not only due to some disease, but in this way the plant can devote all its energy to preparing for flowering or recovering after it. The same changes occur with the old flower, which no longer has enough strength due to its age.
It is necessary to figure out which leaves of the flower turn yellow - old ones at its base or young, just emerging shoots. There is nothing to worry about when old leaves turn yellow. This is how the flower gets rid of non-viable parts in order to direct all its energies to rejuvenation and the appearance of new leaves. When yellowness appears on young shoots, you most likely need to pay attention to the lighting. Leaves can change color when exposed to direct sunlight. Sunburn is very dangerous for this houseplant. It is worth moving the spathiphyllum to another room or rearranging it to another place.
If negative changes occur in appearance If you have a pet, you shouldn’t panic. If you find out in time the reason for the withering and drying of a plant or its parts, then the flower can be saved and given a second life so that it continues to delight with its exotic blooms.
“The leaves of spathiphyllum turn black and dry, what should I do?” A question that is often asked by flower growers who do not follow the rules of plant care. Most often, the leaves dry out and turn black due to unsuitable conditions for the flower in the place where it is kept. The article talks about the reasons that contribute to blackening and how to help the plant recover.
Spathiphyllum, like other representatives of the Araceae family, attracts flower growers with its decorative foliage features. It also has a beneficial effect on the energy in the house, blooms for a long time, and is resistant to diseases. But it happens that this disease-resistant flower is influenced negative factors. And the consequences are reflected in the appearance of the inflorescences, because they are more sensitive than the leaves.
There are several reasons for this phenomenon:
Spathiphyllum is a plant from the tropics, as a result of which it is recommended to water it regularly. However, following this rule, many gardeners get carried away and water it excessively. Such a flood leads to rotting of the roots.
The root system can also rot if the flower is kept in a cool room. The desired growing temperature is approximately 22 -24 degrees.
Spraying recommended for dry air in winter can also lead to an excess of moisture, since spathiphyllum actively absorbs moisture through the leaves. If you use cold water, then blackening is guaranteed.
This flower is afraid of drafts.
Some gardeners rely on the nutritional value of the soil and do not consider it necessary to feed their pet. A lack of microelements also leads to blackening of the crown. But do not get carried away with fertilizing, their excess can also harm the plant.
Dealing with blackening of plant leaves is quite simple if the cause of this problem is established. Here are some useful tips to help maintain the beauty and health of your spathiphyllum.
If the soil is excessively moist, it is necessary to limit watering. If this does not help, and the leaves continue to turn black, the roots may have already begun to rot. In this case, the plant should be transplanted into new soil with a revision of the root system.
When replanting, the plant is removed from the pot and the old soil is removed from the roots. Then the roots are examined, all diseased and rotten areas are removed. After this, the spathiphyllum is transplanted into new soil. It should not be too heavy so that water does not accumulate in it. It is also necessary to ensure good drainage to drain excess water.
If the leaves turn black due to lack of moisture, it is necessary to adjust the watering regime and regularly spray the plant to increase air humidity. It is also useful to place the pot with spathiphyllum in a tray with moistened sand or pebbles to maintain stable humidity near the flower.
Feeding is required when caring for spathiphyllum. But we must remember that this plant reacts very sharply to both a lack of fertilizers and their excess. Therefore, you need to feed him very carefully; it is better to underfeed than to overfeed.
In order for spathiphyllum to always have beautiful green leaves, it needs stable temperature regime. It is also necessary to remove it from radiators and air conditioners. You need to place the flower pot in a place with minimal air movement.
It is advisable to immediately transplant a newly purchased plant from a transport pot into a permanent one and provide it with proper care. But if the spathiphyllum blooms, it is better to wait until the end of flowering and only then start replanting.
Dark black or brown spots on spathiphyllum they usually indicate a significant bay that accompanies the plant for a long time. Most likely, the flower is watered too often and there is a permanent swamp at the bottom of the pot, near the roots. It is not surprising that the roots in such a situation begin to rot, which leads to the leaves of the spathiphyllum turning black.
What to do?
First, adjust the watering (read about the recommended watering mode in the previous paragraph). If the spots continue to spread to more leaves or increase in size, it is necessary to inspect the roots and, if necessary, treat any rot found. This can be done according to the following scheme:
Remove the spathiphyllum from the pot.
Rinse the roots in water (in a bucket of water), carefully freeing them from the old soil.
Inspect the roots for rot. Rotten roots - yellowish or Brown, soft; healthy roots are white and dense.
Cut all rotten roots with a clean knife to healthy tissue. Powder the sections with crushed activated carbon or cinnamon.
Leave the plant to dry for 2-3 hours.
Plant the spathiphyllum in new, light soil with the addition of activated carbon (to prevent rotting of the cuts). There is no need to water immediately! The parquet soil is initially damp, this is enough to support the vital activity of the “amputated” roots.
After 2-3 days, when new soil Once it dries, water the transplanted spathiphyllum with warm, settled (ideally boiled) water with the addition of “Kornevin”.
The appearance of dark brown or black spots in the middle of the leaf blade may be a consequence of root rotting. The reason is an improperly organized irrigation regime. If the substrate is normal, you may have exposed the spathiphyllum crown to direct sunlight. Burns appear in a similar way, and then the leaves begin to turn yellow and die.
The flower grows in the forest, under the canopy of trees, so it loves diffused light; try to protect it from the scorching rays on a southern windowsill with tulle. Women's happiness will feel more comfortable on an eastern or western window.
Black spots in the middle of the leaves sometimes indicate hypothermia of the root system. Remember that an exotic guest cannot stand drafts and likes to keep his “feet” warm. If there is a draft on the windowsill, place a foam circle under the pot. The normal temperature background for an exotic guest is 23-25⁰C, in winter not lower than 15⁰C. Night temperature fluctuations will lead to cooling of the moist substrate, causing the tender roots to freeze.
Attention! Under no circumstances should you water the flagolist at night.
Only with proper care and attentive attention, even such an unassuming flower as spathiphyllum will regularly delight with flowering and not cause trouble to the owner.
Spathiphyllum is not a capricious plant, but sometimes it also causes trouble for its owner. Errors in care immediately affect the condition of spathiphyllum leaves. They may turn black, yellow, discolored, or lose turgor. All these symptoms clearly indicate problems in agricultural technology that need to be eliminated in order to restore the decorativeness and health of the plant.
Flower growers often ask why the tips of spathiphyllum leaves turn black and dry out. Let's try to figure it out.
In this case, the ends dry out just a little - literally by 1-2 mm. At the same time, the rest of the leaf plate remains green or, in the zone bordering with blackening, acquires a yellowish tint. This type of spathiphyllum leaves the tips of its leaves drying out when grown in normal residential conditions. This phenomenon is especially pronounced in winter, when the heating is on.
The cause of dry tips of spathiphyllum leaves is dry air.
What to do?
To reduce the appearance of black tips of spathiphyllum to a minimum, you should increase the air humidity near the pot with the plant. For this it is recommended:
In this case, the spathiphyllum leaves turn black and dry a little differently. The defect affects a wider area and affects part of the leaf blade. The blackening zone is limited from the normal part of the leaf blade by a narrow yellow border.
Such spots “speak” of a bay and heavy, non-hygroscopic soil What to do?
Blackening of only the tips of the leaves indicates that the spathiphyllum is watered too often, but there is no rotting of the roots yet. In this case, helping the flower will consist of an adjusted watering regime.
Some gardeners decide to water only when the spathiphyllum leaves droop and look wilted in appearance. Sometimes this happens when the soil in the pot is almost completely dry! However, for spathiphyllum such seemingly cruel drying is in the order of things. Just water it and in an hour all the leaves will restore turgor. At the same time, an irrigation regime with constant severe drying is not a recommended option. That is, sometimes you can do this, but not systematically. This has a bad effect on the condition of the soil and small suction roots, which can die. Ideally, spathiphyllum should be watered after the soil has dried to 1/3 - 1/4 of the height of the pot.
Dark black or brown spots on spathiphyllum usually indicate significant flooding that accompanies the plant for a long time. Most likely, the flower is watered too often and there is a permanent swamp at the bottom of the pot, near the roots. It is not surprising that the roots in such a situation begin to rot, which leads to the leaves of the spathiphyllum turning black.
In severe flooding, spathiphyllum leaves become covered with dark spots along the edges. What to do?
First, adjust the watering (read about the recommended watering mode in the previous paragraph). If the spots continue to spread to more leaves or increase in size, it is necessary to inspect the roots and, if necessary, treat any rot found. This can be done according to the following scheme:
Spathiphyllum leaves may turn black due to “wet” cooling. Let’s say you watered the plant in the evening, but it got cold at night and the roots froze.
“Wet” cooling of spathiphyllum roots leads to the appearance of brown and yellow spots on the leaf plate What to do?
Try not to make this mistake again. Remove spathiphyllum from a cold windowsill and do not water it in the evening. To quickly put the plant in order, spray it with Epin, a stress adaptogen that will help overcome unfavorable factors and increase the immunity of spathiphyllum.
When burned by fertilizers, spots on spathiphyllum leaves appear quickly. Literally overnight, after watering with excess fertilizer, extensive brown or black areas appear on the leaves. After this, the entire leaf turns yellow and dies.
Burn spots from fertilizers or chemical stimulants What to do?
If you suspect overfertilization, you need to act quickly. Spathiphyllum roots should be washed in clean water and replant it in new soil.
Spathiphyllum leaves often turn yellow, massively. This is very spoiling decorative look flower. Let's try to understand each specific situation.
Spathiphyllum respects the so-called penumbra. That is a large number of diffused light, without direct sunlight. If you place a pot of spathiphyllum, say, on a southern or southwestern window sill, you will soon see that its leaves have lost their richness. green color, burned out. Discolored leaves turn yellow and even turn white.
If the sun's rays were not only bright, but also hot, sunburn is possible. In this case, yellowing occurs in spots or stripes. Moreover, the burned parts become thinner, similar to parchment.
On southern windows, spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow or white from high light intensity What to do?
If your spathiphyllum has turned yellow from excessive light, it must be moved to a darker place, without direct sunlight. Window sills of northern, northeastern, northwestern, eastern orientation are suitable for spathiphyllum. If all the windows in your apartment are sunny, it’s not scary. Place the spathiphyllum at some distance from the window, in the back of the room, to reduce the light intensity.
When spathiphyllum starves, the leaves turn yellow unevenly. For example, a “mosaic” color appears, that is, green spots remain on a yellow background or vice versa. The veins become discolored or, conversely, the veins remain green, and the leaf blade turns yellow. Yellowing of leaves against the background of green veins is a manifestation. All other uneven yellowing may be associated with a lack of a variety of microelements, in particular boron and calcium.
Lack of iron and other trace elements affects spathiphyllum leaves. They turn yellow and acquire a heterogeneous color What to do?
Yellowing of spathiphyllum due to starvation can be easily eliminated by fertilizing and enriching the soil. You need to do the following:
If the lower old leaves of spathiphyllum turn yellow, then this is natural process, requiring no intervention. Old leaves die and new ones come to replace them. Yellowing can only be considered a problem if the process affects young leaves.
If the leaves of spathiphyllum have been grafted and hang like rags, you need to take immediate action. This symptom indicates that the roots of the plant are not receiving moisture.
This is the most common reason. Spathiphyllum withers when the soil in the pot is too dry and requires watering.
This spathiphyllum needs to be watered urgently! What to do?
In order for the spathiphyllum leaves to regain turgor, it is enough to water the plant. In some cases, if the soil is very dry or peat is used as soil, simply watering from above may not have an effect. Then it is recommended to water the soil from above, as usual, and then immerse the pot with the plant in a pan (bucket, basin) with water for 15-20 minutes.
It happens that after watering the leaves recover for a while, and then wither again. Despite the fact that the soil still looks wet! This means that the roots of the plant, located inside the pot, are in a dense, non-hygroscopic lump of soil, which cannot be wetted by water during normal watering. Such a nuisance happens if, after purchase, the spathiphyllum was transplanted into a new flower soil while retaining the store-bought peat substrate on the roots. This substrate dries very quickly and turns into an impenetrable lump. At the same time, the new flower soil into which the transplant was made retains water well and remains moist after watering. But water does not reach the roots, since a dry lump of peat is held on them.
What to do?
To ensure that the leaves no longer wilt, store-bought soil will have to be removed. To do this, rinse the roots in water and carefully remove any lumps of peat from them. After this, transplant the spathiphyllum into homogeneous light soil.
Root rotting occurs due to flooding. In this case, the leaves wither in the same way as when they dry out. The only difference is that when drying, it is enough to shed the soil so that the roots absorb moisture and the leaves recover. If the roots rot, watering will no longer help; on the contrary, it will worsen the situation: the leaves will wither with a vengeance.
A sign of root rot: the soil in the pot is constantly wet, despite the fact that watering has been done for a long time. Rotting roots do not absorb moisture from the soil; therefore, the plant becomes sick and does not receive water and nutrients. Unfortunately, root rot is an insidious disease that is not always quickly diagnosed. A novice gardener, seeing that the spathiphyllum has wilted, will most likely begin to water it more and more. Until the flower is completely destroyed!
If, after flooding, the soil was not dried and an imperishable swampy layer formed at the bottom of the pot, then the spathiphyllum is doomed to rotting roots What to do?
If root rot is diagnosed, transplant the spathiphyllum into new soil with preliminary cutting off all rotting parts of the root. The transplant can be done as follows:
Spathiphyllum does not grow green mass: it does not produce new leaves or produce shoots.
Remember that at first spathiphyllum grows root system, and then begins to deal with the leaves. Therefore, if you transplanted the plant into a pot that is too large, you will have to wait until the root system grows and entangles the lump of earth. Only after this the growth of green mass will begin.
This pot is too large for a young spathiphyllum. Need a transplant! What to do?
If you don’t want to wait several months, you will have to transplant the spathiphyllum into a smaller pot - 1-2 cm larger in diameter than the root system.
Spathiphyllum may slow down in growth if the lighting is too intense or, conversely, poor.
What to do? Move the spathiphyllum to a well-lit place, without direct sunlight.
At suitable conditions spathiphyllum content can bloom 2-3 times a year. But the expectation does not always become a reality. And then the question arises: “Why doesn’t spathiphyllum bloom?” There may be several reasons for this.
Spathiphyllum will begin to bloom only after its roots have completely entwined the earthen ball in the pot. Therefore, if you transplanted a plant into a pot that is not the right size, you can wait several years for flowering.
What to do?
Choose a new pot for the spathiphyllum. For this representative of the araceae family, cramped, low pots are suitable. The diameter is 1-2 cm larger than the root system.
If the spathiphyllum has not been replanted for a long time, the soil in the pot has become depleted or initially did not contain the necessary nutrients, you may not expect flowering. In addition to the lack of flowering, starvation is also indicated by the general painful state of the plant, yellow or small leaves. There is another situation: the spathiphyllum looks healthy, produces a large number of large green leaves and does not bloom. This means that the plant “fattens”, that is, it consumes a large amount of nitrogen, which stimulates the growth of green mass to the detriment of flowering. We conclude: the soil in which spathiphyllum grows contains a lot of nitrogen, but there is a lack of elements responsible for flowering - potassium and phosphorus.
Spathiphyllum may look healthy, “fatten”, but not bloom if there is a large amount of nitrogen in the soil and a lack of phosphorus and potassium What to do?
If the pot in which the spathiphyllum grows is of normal size, and there has been no flowering for a long time, feed it with complex fertilizer with a predominance of phosphorus and potassium (for flowering ones). For fastest effect you can spray with stimulants - “Bud”, “Houseflower”, etc.
Spathiphyllum - shade-tolerant plant. The term “shade-tolerant” means that the plant is contraindicated in direct sunlight. But! And deep shadow is also useless. For spathiphyllum you need to choose a well-lit place, with big amount diffused light. Spathiphyllum will not bloom in full shade.
What to do?
It is necessary to move the spathiphyllum from deep shade to a more illuminated place.
Some time after the appearance of a new flower, you notice that its snow-white original color takes on green tint? All spathiphyllums behave this way. The fading covers of flowers are painted in greenish tones. Naturally, this feature does not require any adjustment.
One of the most popular and spectacular representatives of indoor flora is the tropical guest spathiphyllum. This wonderful plant is better known under another name - “female happiness”. Lush green bushes, although they bloom in monochrome snow-white tones, attract attention with the interesting structure of the inflorescences. Varietal diversity is highly valued, including cultivars of different heights and foliage colors. Women's happiness is often presented as a gift, as a symbol of harmony in relationships and a talisman for finding a good spouse. It often happens that spathiphyllum falls into the hands of an inexperienced gardener who has no idea how to properly care for it. Violation of the rules of cultivation leads to loss of decorativeness, which is why the leaves of spathiphyllum turn black, turn yellow or wither. You will learn how to restore beauty to a green pet from the article.
The genus Spatiphyllum unites about 50 plant species common in tropical rainforests. Most representatives of the genus lead a terrestrial lifestyle, growing on soft forest floors rich in organic matter. Some inhabitants strive to receive more sunlight, so they use tree branches as support, i.e. they are epiphytes.
The advantages of this lifestyle include inaccessibility to herbivores and independence from the forest floor. Lush bushes are often found near water bodies and love wetlands. Spathiphyllum does not have a specific homeland, because different kinds can be found not only in the tropical zone of South and Central America, but also in New Guinea, located near Australia.
On a note! Miniature varieties of spathiphyllum are often found in stores with aquarium paraphernalia. It is impossible to grow exotic underwater, as it will gradually die. But you can place a tropical guest in a paludarium, where he will feel quite comfortable.
Evergreen representatives of the genus are included in the Araceae family. The name of the genus is formed from two Latin words, which are literally translated as “leaf” and “bedspread”. If you look at the plant, you can immediately guess that we are talking about a flower cob, wrapped in a snow-white blanket. The white bract is often compared to a flag, which is why spathiphyllum is sometimes called a flagolist.
The plant forms neat, fast-growing bushes that produce a large number of daughter rosettes. The exotic has no central stem, so the petioles are attached to a shortened rhizome and appear directly from the soil.
Leaf blades with a solid edge differ in color, size, and shape depending on the species and variety. The leaves can be ovoid, oval, or elongated-lanceolate, but the central vein on them is clearly defined. The lower part of the petiole is equipped with a stem-encompassing extension with a powerful vascular network.
Peduncles are equal in height to leaf petioles or slightly exceed them. The type of inflorescence is a spadix, which is attached to a peduncle or short stalk. The inflorescence consists of tiny male and female flowers, located very closely to each other. There is a white or greenish blanket around the cob.
The bract acts as petals, trying to attract potential pollinators. As the flag fades, it loses its snow-white color and becomes green, merging with the foliage mass. Small, smooth seeds are formed inside the cob, which very quickly lose their viability. The main method of propagation at home is dividing the bush or separating daughter rosettes.
Advice! to minimize stress from vegetative propagation, experienced flower growers carry it out during the annual transfer to a new pot.
The discovery of the exotic belongs to the German botanist G. Wallis, after whom the most widespread species in culture is named. Only several decades after its discovery did breeders become interested in this unusual flower. Women's happiness attracts flower growers with a long flowering period, during which a delicate, pleasant aroma spreads.
Based on the spathiphyllum discovered by Gustav Wallis, a lot of varieties have been bred that differ in the height and dimensions of the bushes, size, shape, color sheet plates. Particularly highly valued are tiny varieties (Mini, Kroshka), reaching only 10-15 cm in height, and real giants (Sensation, Pablo, Silvio’s suite) up to one and a half meters tall with a spectacular large foliage. The interior of any room will be decorated with variegated hybrids (Picasso, Kaiti, Domino), and there are also varieties bred specifically for cutting (Mauna Loa). In addition, the culture is very unpretentious and shade-tolerant.
Let's look at the main varieties that can be found in culture:
Medium-sized individuals up to 35 cm high. The leaf is elongated-lanceolate, up to 20 cm long. As they grow, the petioles become arched, which is why the leaves hang slightly from the pot. A white or cream ear 3-4 cm long is surrounded by a snow-white flag 10-12 cm long. Most of the cultivars are obtained based on this species.
A rarer apartment guest, but no less attractive. The bush grows up to 60 cm, the leaf mass reaches a length of 30 cm, and is attached by petioles of the same size. Pronounced venation can be seen on the surface of the rich green leaves. The small inflorescence is surrounded by a greenish blanket up to 15 cm long.
It got its name for the resemblance of its bright green foliage to the beautiful canna. The leaves reach a length of 35 cm, the bract is half as long. The bedspread is painted in White color, the reverse side (in relation to the inflorescence) is green. The ear is straight, yellowish, oozes delicate aroma. Cannoleaf spathiphyllum can only be purchased from collectors.
Very beautiful view, which can bloom profusely all year round. The bush is dense, rich green, the petioles are short. The foliage reaches a length of 20 cm, the plant height is 40 cm. Small cream inflorescences are surrounded by a snow-white bract 6-8 cm high.
The name of this species is given for the resemblance of the concave blanket to a spoon. The giant reaches a meter in height, the elongated oval leaves are attached with strong petioles up to 70 cm long. The dark green plates have an enticing gloss and show a pronounced network of veins. The “spoon” is twice as high as the cob.
A tall variety with large dark green leaves reaching half a meter. Neat waves run along the edge of the glossy plates. The cob reaches a length of 10 cm, the spathe is twice as tall. This culture is ideal for office premises, because it is distinguished by its special shade tolerance.
Remember! Whatever spathiphyllum you choose, it will become lucky mascot, will clean the air from harmful compounds of formaldehyde and xylene. Thanks to the release of phytoncides, the air in the room will be cleared of pathogenic bacteria, viruses, and mold spores.
The most common problem that a novice gardener faces is the appearance of blackness on the foliage. It can arise from various external factors, but the reason always lies in a violation of the rules of flower care. By the location of the blackness, you can often determine the cause of the plant’s painful condition.
The appearance of significant darkening zones along the edge of the spathiphyllum leaf blade indicates excess moisture. Despite the love for moisture, an excessive amount of life-giving liquid will certainly destroy the green bush.
The constant presence of roots in the “swamp” is unacceptable! Women's happiness needs to be watered after it dries upper layer soil in a pot. You also cannot wait for the soil to dry out, because it will lead to the death of the flower.
Irrigation will have a beneficial effect on the health of the green ward only in moderate quantities. In summer, the crop should be watered frequently and abundantly. It is better to use the bottom watering method so that the earthen ball absorbs the required amount of liquid. After 2 hours, drain the excess liquid from the pan. The winter irrigation regime is more moderate, because the combination of dampness and coolness is optimal condition for fungal development. 
When dark spots are located along the edges of the leaves, the root system has already begun to rot, without your help the homemade exotic will die. An emergency transplant and “surgical” intervention are required.
Important! The water must first be filtered or allowed to stand for at least 12 hours; the liquid should not be cold.
And water always stagnates in an incorrectly selected substrate. In the wet tropical forest exotic lives on litter consisting of rotted parts of plants. Purchase a substrate from a specialty store or make it yourself by mixing leafy soil with turf and peat. Take the components in equal proportions. Ferment the prepared soil mixture charcoal and perlite or coarse sand. Such soil will easily allow moisture and air to pass through without turning the pot into a swamp.
If blackness appears at the very tip of the leaf, and the rest of the plate looks healthy, the reason lies in insufficient air humidity. At home, the exotic lives in the humid atmosphere of the tropical forest.
At home, you can recreate such conditions using simple techniques - spraying, placing it in a tray with wet pebbles or moss, placing the pot near the aquarium. But in winter, due to the batteries being turned on, the problem gets worse. Moisture in the room evaporates very quickly. If standard measures are not enough, use a humidifier. Bathing in the shower will have a beneficial effect on the condition of the crown.
The appearance of dark brown or black spots in the middle of the leaf blade may be a consequence of root rotting. The reason is an improperly organized irrigation regime. If the substrate is normal, you may have exposed the spathiphyllum crown to direct sunlight. Burns appear in a similar way, and then the leaves begin to turn yellow and die.
The flower grows in the forest, under the canopy of trees, so it loves diffused light; try to protect it from the scorching rays on a southern windowsill with tulle. Women's happiness will feel more comfortable on an eastern or western window.
Black spots in the middle of the leaves sometimes indicate hypothermia of the root system. Remember that an exotic guest cannot stand drafts and likes to keep his “feet” warm. If there is a draft on the windowsill, place a foam circle under the pot. The normal temperature background for an exotic guest is 23-25⁰C, in winter not lower than 15⁰C. Night temperature fluctuations will lead to cooling of the moist substrate, causing the tender roots to freeze.
Attention! Under no circumstances should you water the flagolist at night.
If the tip of the leaf turns black, but is affected big square than in the first case, the root system suffered from a chemical burn. Surely the other day you applied another portion of fertilizing and did not comply with the correct dosage or violated the fertilizer application schedule. In this case, you cannot hesitate; urgently transplant the “female happiness” into fresh soil, carefully washing the roots.
Remember that fertilizers should be applied in spring and summer twice a month. Choose optimally liquid composition, designed specifically for Aroids. If you use regular liquid fertilizer for flowering indoor plants, the dosage should be halved.
In winter, fertilizing is contraindicated because it stimulates growth, causing the bush to stretch out and lose its decorative appearance. When kept under year-round artificial lighting Feed the flower with minerals twice a month.
If blackness appears not only on the deciduous mass, but also affects the delicate flags, your pet’s health is at risk! This reaction of the flagolist is typical when the substrate is excessively moistened, leading to rotting of the roots.
Know! If only the cobs and spathes begin to turn black, the inflorescence got wet during spraying or watering. Avoid sprinkling during flowering and do not allow droplets of liquid to fall on the buds.
What to do to save spathiphyllum? When the roots rot, there is only one option - an emergency transplant. It is performed as follows:
Attention! Do not use an old pot for replanting; fungal spores may remain in it. As a last resort, pour boiling water over it and completely immerse it in a raspberry solution of potassium permanganate for 30-40 minutes.
Did your pet's leaves turn black and then start to dry out? This happens when the roots are overcooled or sunburned. Move the pot to another location. If only the tips are affected, adjust the humidity in the room. This phenomenon often occurs in winter when the heating is on. 
So, blackening of spathiphyllum leaves may be due to the following reasons:
It will not be easy to return a woman’s happiness to a decorative appearance, and in some cases you will even have to fight for its life. That’s why it’s better to immediately learn the rules of plant care than to eliminate the consequences of your own mistakes!
Most common mistake For a novice gardener, it is a violation of the irrigation regime. Excessive moisture of the substrate, watering at night in winter, use cold water from the tap leads to rotting of the root system. Too dense soil will also prevent water from evaporating normally and will cause waterlogging of the ground.
Know! High air humidity – important condition For normal development exotic. If this indicator is reduced, the decorative appearance will suffer, which will be reflected in the appearance of withered black tips.
Less often, the flower is left under straight lines sun rays, which leads to burns of the deciduous mass. Beginning flower growers try to feed their green plants more often, which is fundamentally wrong. An excess of fertilizers for indoor flora is more destructive than a shortage.
To make spathiphyllum leaves look healthy, provide it with proper care:
Do not forget to wipe the leaf mass from dust or sprinkle.
Flower growers highly value the decorative qualities of the flagolist, but at the beginning of their journey everyone makes mistakes. For many, the first flower they purchase dies due to improper care. Experienced flower growers advise beginners to water indoor spathiphyllum only after the clod of earth has dried out by a quarter or after a slight loss of leaf turgor. With this method, you won’t be able to flood your pet.
Another helpful advice– don’t overthink it with fertilizer. It is better to purchase a specialized composition for Aroids and strictly follow the instructions. This will prevent the roots from being burned. Making a soil mixture is a real art, leave it to the professionals. Ready-made soil will save you a lot of hassle. When the roots rot, the pathogen remains in the substrate; the soil must be changed. At the same time, all damaged parts are removed and processed.
Important! It is necessary not only to soak the root lobe in a fungicide solution, but also to remove all damaged leaves and spray the crown.
Sometimes spathiphyllum leaves turn black, which confuses beginners and makes them wonder “why”? To maintain the decorativeness of the green ward, you will have to make some effort. The information contained in the article will help you easily restore your pet’s health and enjoy long-lasting flowering.
