Irises are grown as annuals and perennials in the garden. Flowers can be grown on one summer cottage for no more than 4 years, after which it is necessary to transplant them to a new place or replace them with fresh crops.
Watering and feeding irises during and after flowering are basic plant care procedures. In today's article you will learn how to feed irises after flowering, as well as what nuances there are in this type of care.
On one garden place irises can grow normally without feeding for 2 to 4 years, after which the plant will gradually wither. Every year, the gardener can observe a decline in flowering, then growth, after which the irises suddenly refuse to bloom.
Why is this happening? Nutrients in soil mixture are an additional factor producing iris flowering. The presence of all the necessary nutritional components - be it mineral ingredients, organic matter or trace elements - is the key to annual flowering.
How to feed irises in the garden?
Irises in open ground it is necessary to feed with mineral fertilizers in combination.
Feeding irises before flowering begins, in the process and after are different. Before flowering, at the very first stage of budding, it is necessary to pay attention to the increase in the green and root mass of the plant, and then stop this kind of feeding.
During the budding period When irises are actively laying inflorescences, fertilizing, for example, with nitrogen is not appropriate, since the plant stops blooming only by increasing its green mass, but potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are suitable.
After flowering ends feed irises need feeding for the laying of new root shoots, as well as the formation flower buds for the next flowering season. Don’t forget that irises need protection during the winter. 
What you should not feed irises after flowering:
How to feed irises after flowering:
It is necessary to feed irises in the open ground after the end of flowering before the onset of cold weather in dry weather, preferably in the morning or evening, without combining it with the watering procedure. As additional care after fertilizing, you can carry out shallow loosening of the soil mixture to quickly get useful substances deep into the earthen clod.
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Irises are perennial plants, they are also called iris and cockerel. More than 800 species of this plant are known with flowers of various shapes and colors, with powerful rhizomes and bulbs.
Orris root has a slight orris aroma and is called “orris root.” Perfumers use the dried rhizome of iris to obtain an essence that adds a floral-powdery note to the perfume composition.
Iris means "rainbow" in Greek. And indeed, in the garden, thickets of irises create a magnificent color scheme(on the picture). Correctly selected varieties with different terms flowering allows you to enjoy iris flowers throughout the summer.
There is a variety of bulbous irises that looks similar in appearance to the rhizomatous iris. There are some differences in the agricultural technology of rhizomatous and bulbous species, but the principles of feeding for them are the same, the plants are fertilized in early spring, during the formation of buds and after flowering. In this article we will tell you how and what to feed irises so that they please us lush flowering.
By the end of the growing season proper care the plant will accumulate a lot in the rhizome nutrients. To start the mechanism of their release and activate plant growth, irises must be fed with nitrogen fertilizers in early spring.
If the plants were not covered for the winter, at the beginning of March, the first fertilizing can be carried out directly in the snow, scattering granular fertilizers near the irises in the active zone of the roots. Complex will do mineral fertilizer(azophoska, NPK), in which the elements are contained in the following proportions:
On one square meter sprinkle 60 g of fertilizer. You can limit yourself to urea; it is enough to add 1 teaspoon per 1 square meter. When the snow starts to melt, useful material penetrate with water to the roots of the plant.
Irises respond gratefully to fertilizing with ammonium sulfate. This fertilizer contains nitrogen (21%) and sulfur (24%). It dissolves well in water and can be used both dry and as a solution.
Sulfur has a beneficial effect on the cellular metabolism of the plant and increases its resistance to fungal diseases. Nitrogen in the fertilizer is contained in an easily digestible form.
It should be remembered that ammonium sulfate acidifies the soil. It is recommended for use on neutral and alkaline soils. If the soil is acidic, ground chalk should be added to ammonium sulfate in a 1:1 ratio.
Let's not ignore the ash. This excellent fertilizer deoxidizes the soil, repels pests, increases the resistance of irises to diseases and supplies the plant with well-absorbed potassium and phosphorus; contains calcium. We do not use ash together with nitrogen fertilizers.
We use organic matter extremely carefully, as it can provoke the development of fungal and bacterial diseases. The use of fresh manure is unacceptable; You can feed it with humus, scattering it around the plant, or prepare a solution for watering from 1 kg of humus and a bucket of water. We use dry chicken manure at the rate of 300 g per bucket of water; we fertilize the irises with this solution in early spring.
The budding period begins in irises approximately 2 - 3 weeks after the start of the growing season, in middle lane this period falls on May-June. At this time we make a second feeding, for which we use complex fertilizer:
This combination of minerals will ensure the formation of large buds and increase their number. If the spring is cold and rainy, we do not do a second feeding; the first feeding will be enough.
During the flowering period, dust the soil surface with ash at the rate of 2 tablespoons per plant. These measures will help protect the flower from pests and diseases.
From folk recipes:
We water the plant with phosphorus fertilizer from fish every other day. Carefully pour the solution into the area of growing leaves.
After the plants finish flowering, they enter a dormant state that lasts about a month. After this, a period of intensive growth begins; New shoots are formed, flower buds are formed, and the rhizome grows.
In the middle zone, this period falls on July - August, at which time it is necessary to provide the plant with balanced nutrition in order to ensure abundant flowering next summer.
We apply only phosphorus and potassium fertilizers:
The standards are given per 1 sq. m, for plants of the first year of life we reduce the norm by 2 times. We add fertilizer to the moist soil and gently loosen it. It is advisable to feed plants in warm weather, in which case the fertilizers are better absorbed.
Iris rhizomes are prone to rotting. To prevent fungal diseases in autumn feeding You can add sulfur powder in an amount of 5%.
Iris roots are sensitive to excessive doses of fertilizer. In the case of this flower, it is better to underfeed than to overfeed. With an excess of fertilizers, the plant forms a powerful vegetative mass and “gets fat.” In this case, flower stalks will not form, and beautiful flowers We won't see any that look like orchids.
All three fertilizers can be replaced with a single application of AVA fertilizer. One teaspoon of granules added to the hole when planting iris will provide the plant with nutrition for 3 years.
Irises – unpretentious plants, but under certain conditions their immunity becomes stronger, and flowering becomes more abundant. In order for a flower to reveal its beauty, you need to know what to feed irises in the spring and how to care for them throughout the growing season.
These perennial plants decorate flower beds, incl. with their leaves, but plant them for the sake of obtaining flowers. It happens that irises do not bloom. Possible reasons for this phenomenon:
The last reason is worth dwelling on in more detail.
Irises need nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, which they receive from both mineral complex fertilizers and organic substances.
The use of fresh manure for the flowers in question is destructive. This leads to root rot and the appearance of fungal diseases.
Organics are added only in the form of humus solutions (1 kg per bucket of water) or dry chicken manure(300 g for the same volume of liquid). It is better to do this in the fall when digging the site.
From folk remedies It is recommended to use wood ash, which is sprinkled around the plant in an amount of 2-3 tbsp. spoons under each bush. This will not only provide nutrition, but also reduce the acidity of the soil, and also protect against fungal diseases.
The following remedy will help to feed the plants with phosphorus for abundant flowering: infuse 200 g of minced fish in 5 liters of water, water the flowers in the spring on the growing leaves. The procedure is carried out every other day, and is stopped two weeks before flowering.
Signs of malnutrition may include:
If these symptoms are detected, you should not immediately give shock doses of fertilizer, as the plant will experience stress. You need to start feeding wisely and step by step. It is recommended to carry out the procedure three times per season. The first two feedings are done in the spring.
Irises should be fertilized only if there are signs of nutritional deficiency or if you are certain that the soil has not been fertilized for a long time. IN in this case There is a rule that applies to all plants: it is better to underfeed than to overfeed.
In spring, irises are fertilized by loosening. In March or April, it is necessary to feed with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in a ratio of 3: 2: 2.5. Azofoska has a similar composition, but urea can also be used. Ammonium sulfate, which contains sulfur in addition to nitrogen, is also suitable. The amount of dry matter is 1 tablespoon per bush. You can apply these compounds in the form of solutions, preparing them according to the instructions on the package. It is necessary to water the nutrient only on moist soil, avoiding the solution getting on the leaves and rhizomes.
The second spring feeding is carried out in May (time may vary depending on the region), when the plants form buds. At this stage, nitrogen does not need to be added: it is required for the formation of green mass, and for plants to bloom, phosphorus and potassium are needed.
The use of superphosphates leads to an increase in soil acidity, therefore, on substrates with a high pH level, these substances are replaced with phosphorus flour.
After flowering is completed, irises enter a dormant period for a month. Then they begin to actively prepare for next year by laying flower buds. This occurs in the middle and end of summer. To ensure lush and abundant flowering next year, the plants are given a third and final feeding - 60 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium salt per 1 sq. m. m. area. To prevent rotting of rhizomes, it is recommended to add 5% sulfur powder to the composition.
The new complex fertilizer AVA can replace all three fertilizers. This drug has the ability to gradually dissolve, therefore it is a long-acting fertilizer. It is enough to add one tablespoon of granules to the hole when planting, and the effect will last 3 years.
When applying fertilizers, you must adhere to the following recommendations:
For irises in the first year of growth, all substances are added in half the quantities indicated.
Inexperienced plant growers make the following mistakes:
Growing irises is not a labor-intensive undertaking. A competent approach to fertilizing these flowers will allow you to enjoy their lush blooms every year.
The most popular is the bearded iris. This is a variety that has several color shades. There are also multi-colored - spotted and combined types, emitting a faint aroma when flowering.
So that a flower bed with cockerels or killer whales ( popular name species) was pleasing to the eye, you need to follow some rules of agricultural technology, maintain a neutral or slightly acidic environment in the soil. This can be done using various types fertilizers and deoxidizing additives.
There are dwarf, medium-sized and tall species. They need to be planted correctly on the site so that large plants do not obscure small ones.
Feeding is of particular importance for growth and flowering. Cockerels need fertile soil, but they do not accept some types of fertilizers. How to feed irises after flowering and whether it should be done depends on the type of soil and the general condition of the plants.
The first thing you need to do is choose the right place for planting. It should be protected from the wind, since tall plants often break peduncles. Groundwater, located close to the surface of the earth, can cause rotting of the root system, so you need to choose a higher and drier place.
Cockerels tolerate drought well, but at certain times they need more water. For example, during the period of bud formation and flowering. Young, newly transplanted plants also need more moisture. This is due to the fact that there are nutrients dissolved in the water, which the plant consumes more of as it grows.
The soil for irises should drain well. If the soil in the area is clayey, add sand or peat. A neutral pH level is maintained using wood ash, dolomite flour, phosphorites or liming.
Pruning is carried out after flowering, closer to autumn. In summer, cockerels cannot be pruned, since the leaves contain a supply of nutrients that the flowers need for wintering. Some species bloom twice, so only those flower stalks that have already begun to dry out are cut off. Once-blooming ones are pruned only at the peduncle. It is completely removed. Yellowed leaves are also cut off. The green ones are not touching yet.
Greens are cut at a level of 10 cm from the ground. A triangular cone-shaped cut is made with the apex in the center of the fan. This event is left for the fall - mid or late October. Autumn pruning Irises are necessary as a prevention of diseases or the spread of pests. Cut greens are burned.
If the flower stalks are not cut off, seeds will form in them. This can lead to uncontrolled reproduction of the species on the site. Seed material from varietal species is unsuitable for propagation. Most often, the offspring lose the characteristic features inherent in the mother plant, and they will begin to bloom only after 2–3 years.
If frost-sensitive species are planted, they are additionally covered with pine needles - spruce branches. Young frost-resistant species need shelter in the first year after planting, until the plant has accumulated enough nutrients to protect it from the cold.
Irises come in bulbous and root forms. The first type is much more gentle and more whimsical to care for. Every year in the fall, bulbous irises are dug up, dried and replanted in the spring. The bulbs are sensitive to cold and die at a temperature of -10 degrees.
Most species are artificially bred by Dutch breeders and prices for planting material are not high, so not all gardeners dig up irises, but treat them as annual crops.
Bulbous species do not tolerate stagnant water, so soil preparation takes longer. Feeding bulbous irises is also a big concern for the gardener, since sandy areas do not retain nutrients well, and other soil is not suitable for them.
Bulbous and root irises are propagated by division. Over two years, the bulb grows, it is dug up, divided, leaving large specimens to dry for planting next year. Small ones are dropped in for growing.
Root species are dug up (you don’t have to dig them up), the root is divided into several parts, the smallest of which are planted in indoor pot until spring. The sections are treated with ash or a solution of potassium permanganate to kill putrefactive bacteria.
Feeding of irises in the fall is necessary for root species that overwinter in open ground. Both organic matter and mineral fertilizers can be used as nutrients.
How to fertilize irises autumn:
Fresh manure should not be used to feed irises in August, as it contains a lot of free ammonia. Because of it, plants can begin to grow before frost and die from the cold. Even compost is recommended to be used for 2-3 years.
The best option for feeding irises in August is an ash solution. To do this, pour 200 g of the substance into a bucket of water and leave for 3–4 days. Then it is poured into the recess around the root collar and covered with a layer of earth.
In the spring, you will only need to fertilize with nitrogen fertilizer or complex fertilizer - such as nitrophoska or azofoska. Apply various means, which accelerate rooting and contain amino acids and substances that cause the growth of root tissue. You can buy them at a gardening store.
Humus is added in liquid form by dissolving 2 shovels in a bucket of water. There is no need to insist on it. It is desirable that all the fertilizer gets into the soil and does not remain on the surface. After humus, the plants are not fertilized for 2–3 years.
With the exception of sandy soils, which require restoration every year. Sand holds nitrogen fertilizers especially poorly. They quickly go into the lower layers of the soil, and the iris root cannot reach nitrogen.
Compost, which is used to fertilize irises after pruning, is simply dug up with the top layer of soil. This is done carefully so as not to damage the fleshy roots with the shovel. If this happens, the damaged area is treated with potassium permanganate or dry ash.
There is organic matter that takes a long time to decompose in the soil. This is bone meal, which is used to feed irises in the fall. It takes time for animal residues to partially dissolve, so this fertilizer do not use in spring. Pour boiling water over the bone meal and wait until it cools.
The resulting solution is poured into the soil. Soil bacteria immediately get to work and process organic matter, but they do this gradually, so that by spring the bettas will be provided with the phosphorus and calcium necessary for growth and metabolism.
Mineral mixtures are also well absorbed by plants. Faster than organic, so they are more preferable in the spring. To gain green mass in the spring, plants need nitrogen. At the same time, the plant is preparing for flowering, so it is necessary to support the root system.
Nitrophoska, What irises are fed in the spring contains nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus in equal concentrations. If organic matter was added in the fall, then in early spring it is enough to water the soil with urea. This substance is quickly absorbed and strengthens the plant. Urea is used to water mulch, where pests most often breed.
Summer feeding is carried out for those species that bloom twice. Use potassium sulfate, which supports flower stalks, and superphosphate according to the instructions.
Long-acting fertilizers are available for sale: This is phosphate rock which decomposes in the ground in 2–3 years. This substance is suitable for acidic soil. If the irises have stopped blooming, but are growing greenery well, it means that the area has become excessively acidic. If you add phosphorites, they will increase the pH to normal, but you need to add them in the fall so that by spring some of the substance has time to transform into an assimilable form.
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Flowers Rezepov V.
2015-01-03 Bearded irises. Source: pinterest.com
The oldest image of an iris flower was discovered in the palace of Minos at Knossos, and later the iris became a sacred flower on the island of Crete. In the 20th century, bearded irises gained recognition among flower growers in the USA, Japan, Canada, and other countries. Western Europe, as well as Australia and New Zealand.
In the professional literature for gardeners you can often find the statement that irises are undemanding in terms of nutritional structure. But, these recommendations were developed during the introduction of ancient varieties of bearded irises - Wabash, Lilac Domino and the like. These types of irises had small flowers, usually no more than 5–7 buds on a peduncle. Further similar recommendations were reprinted from edition to edition, practically without being subjected to critical reflection by the authors.
Modern varieties of bearded irises require different cultivation techniques. For example, varieties of tall bearded irises have, at the beginning of flowering, a developed bush with a powerful peduncle with a diameter of more than 15 mm. Their flowers, as a rule, are very large, there may be more than 10 buds.
It is possible to develop such a vegetative and generative system in a short period of time (40–50 days) only with a good supply of plants nutrients. Considering that it is often quite difficult for a novice gardener to obtain objective data from agrochemical soil analysis, it is appropriate to recall the statement of the founder of Russian agrochemistry D.N. Pryanishnikov: “A lack of knowledge cannot be replaced by an excess of fertilizers.”
In central Russia, bearded irises have several development cycles; during the growing season they manage to go through the maximum growth rate twice and do not have a natural dormant period. Taking into account the peculiarities of plant development in a particular growing season, you can select optimal scheme providing them with nutrients.
Choosing a planting site and soil composition
Bearded irises of all types need neutral or slightly alkaline soil. It must be moisture-permeable, and may be rocky. A slightly inclined plane is especially good. They do not tolerate poorly draining water and clayey, acidic soil. Dwarf irises Particularly permeable soil is required, preferably limed. If the soil is too heavy and dense, coarse sand should be added.
The choice of landing site is very important. Irises will not bloom under trees or in a shady place. They need the sun so much that they simply suffer when their rhizomes are shaded by overgrown neighboring plants. In autumn, irises need as much sun as possible to form next year's flower buds.
When and how to plant bearded irises
The best time to plant, divide and replant all bearded irises is after flowering, when new roots begin to grow. They are visible as greenish-yellow tubercles on the rhizome below the base of the leaves. When these tubercles - the rudiments of roots - sprout, they are very fragile and usually break off during transplantation, and new ones are formed only next year. Therefore, it is necessary to replant irises either at a time when new roots have not yet developed, or in the fall, when they become fibrous and tough.
If irises are planted in the fall, it is necessary to compact the soil around the plant well and lightly cover them so that they do not freeze in winter. Well-rooted irises do not need shelter.
When planting, first make a small depression with a mound in the middle, place the iris on it, straighten the roots evenly, cover them with soil, compacting it well with your hands around the plant. The cuttings are placed shallowly so that the rhizomes are warmed by the sun. If the roots are fresh and the soil is moist, then you don’t need to water it.
Caring for Bearded Irises
The bearded iris, like no other flower, requires daily care: weeding, trimming leaves and faded flowers.
Bearded irises store water and nutrients in their rhizomes. Therefore, they need watering only when the soil is exceptionally dry, and also when a small seedling with a poorly developed rhizome is planted.
The roots are located first in the surface layer of soil and only then go deeper. That is why you need to be very careful when loosening the soil around irises. In the first years, the ends of the roots branch and form thin root hairs. In the third year, they usually stop growing, but remain active, absorbing nutrients.
Every year, not only new roots are formed on the side of the old faded shoots, but also rhizome links - the iris grows further and wider. Only the outer shoots bloom, while the inner ones (along with their roots) gradually wither, dry out and die. At the same time, they reach the surface layer and often intertwine with each other. As a result, a strong tangle of dead rhizomes forms in the middle of the iris bush. Then you urgently need to separate them and plant them. This is usually done after 3-4 years. Division can be postponed if the old, leafless rhizome links are broken off and removed. Then a free space is created in the middle of the bush.
Dwarf irises can stay in one place for up to 10 years, unlike tall bearded ones. In the third or fifth year, iris should be replanted. This depends on the nature and rate of aging of a particular variety, but if flowering weakens, it must be rejuvenated. When replanting, a new place in the garden is selected, where the soil is not depleted and not infected with diseases inherent in irises. If it is necessary to plant in the same place, the soil should be replaced with fresh one.
At the end of summer, old leaves begin to die off, but not all varieties do so at the same rate. In August, you should pick off all the leaves that have dried on the outside. Remaining inner leaves can be shortened by half or a third. The irises will look green and tidy, but most importantly, diseases will not develop on old dying leaves.
If dwarf and medium-sized irises do not require shelter for the winter, then tall ones should be covered. Dry oak foliage is best suited for this (or whatever you have at your disposal, but mice do not live in oak foliage), then lay spruce branches and film (lutrasil) on top. This is the only way your tall bearded irises will survive ours. cold winter and will bloom next year.
Feeding bearded irises
There are different opinions on this topic. Some say that iris does not need fertilizers at all, others recommend a whole range of fertilizing. The application of fertilizers has the sole purpose of replacing the missing nutrients in the soil.
Soils are different everywhere, and therefore fertilizers are applied depending on their composition. Thus, it is advisable to do a soil test. The acidity level is very important for selecting and placing plants in the garden.
Iris should not be overfed with nitrogen fertilizers; the application of fresh manure and undecomposed compost should be avoided.
Fertilizers are usually applied after flowering, preferably mineral ones with a minimum nitrogen content. Irises respond very well to the addition of wood ash - the flowers become brighter and larger. You can add old, well-rotted humus or compost.
As a rule, fertilizing is carried out three times per season: the first time in the spring at the beginning of regrowth, the second time at the beginning of budding, the third time 10-15 days after flowering. The first and second feedings are nitrogen-potassium (20-30 g ammonium sulfate or ammonium nitrate per 1 m2 and the same amount of potassium chloride), the third is phosphorus-potassium (50 g of superphosphate per 1 m2). Fertilizing is done on moist soil followed by loosening it.
Fertilizing in spring
The growth of leaf apparatus in irises in central Russia begins in mid-April. Due to the low soil temperature, mineralization processes occur slowly at this time, which leads to a low concentration of available nitrogen in the soil. Therefore, at this time it is important to fertilize the plantings with nitrogen in nitrate form.
Nitrate fertilizers include sodium nitrate (NaNO3), calcium nitrate (Ca(NO3)2), and potassium nitrate (KNO3). On sandy soils and in former peatlands during this period it is advisable to apply potassium fertilizers, which ensures better absorption of nitrogen by irises.
This feeding helps to “start the race” in the development of leaf apparatus, increasing the size of peduncles and flowers.
The application of phosphorus fertilizers in early spring is ineffective, since phosphorus is extremely poorly absorbed by plants at low soil temperatures. In addition, it is impossible to influence the quality of the inflorescences at the moment, since these properties have already been formed in the bud in the previous year.
After flowering is completed, the second maximum intensity of development of bearded irises begins, which is characterized by an active increase in lateral growths. This phase of development also requires a good supply of nitrogen nutrition to the plants - it is necessary for the successful formation of young rhizomes. During this period, it is advisable to introduce nitrogen in ammonium form. Ammonia fertilizers include ammonium sulfate and ammonium chloride.
Top dressing in summer
IN summer time Fertilizers in ammonium form are more effective than nitrate ones for two reasons. Firstly, ammonium nitrogen, unlike nitrate nitrogen, is directly used for the synthesis of amino acids and proteins. Nitrate nitrogen is included in the metabolism only after it is reduced to the ammonia form. Secondly, ammonia nitrogen is almost not washed out from the root distribution zone.
Note that the above recommendation - to increase nitrogen nutrition during the period when lateral growth begins to form (for central Russia this is mid-June - mid-July) does not coincide with those given in publications on growing irises.
In the second phase of intensive development of irises, simultaneously with the growth of rhizomes of lateral growths, the formation of the rudiments of future inflorescences occurs. The formation of future generative organs can proceed successfully only against the background of a good supply of plants with phosphorus. The end of the second maximum development of irises coincides with the beginning of the deterioration of the factors of their life.
Feeding in autumn
The successful survival of plants in the autumn-winter period is facilitated by an increase in the concentration of soluble carbohydrates in the cell sap of their organs. The process of accumulation of soluble carbohydrates actively occurs with optimal supply of the plant with phosphorus and potassium. All this indicates the need for phosphorus fertilizing of irises when they enter the second phase of intensive development.
Preparing bearded irises for winter
Should plantings of bearded irises be covered for the winter? This question can hardly be answered unambiguously; the principle “do no harm!” is perhaps appropriate here. On the one hand, shelter gives obvious advantage- reduces the likelihood of plants being damaged by low temperatures. At the same time, pre-winter covering, especially if done unskilled, has a number of negative aspects:
According to observations, the bearded iris is a “dry” plant; it tolerates a lack of moisture more easily than its excess. Due to this late autumn It is useful to cover the plantings with plastic film to reduce excess moisture. At the same time, it is important to ensure natural circulation air under the film. Remember that bearded irises do not have a natural rest period, they do not “fall asleep”, and the continuation of their life activity is accompanied by breathing.
There is another special technique that helps successful wintering irises This is sowing winter cereals (for example, rye) directly on their plantings, followed by weeding in the spring. The resulting turf reduces the thermal conductivity of the soil, which has a beneficial effect on the condition of the irises.
Rezepov V.
Video on the topic:
Many gardeners send iris for the winter according to the principle “it will dry out and fall off.” This is a fundamentally wrong approach, because it is extremely risky - yes, winter-hardy irises can cope, but flowers of more delicate varieties will certainly suffer.
It is not difficult to get lost in the variety of iris varieties - all shades from snow-white to almost black and all sizes from crumbs barely rising from the grass to giants the size of a first-grader will confuse even an experienced florist. But preparing irises for winter is the same for all types and varieties, both bulbous and rhizomatous.
Iris leaves, dried out and rotten at the edges, often become a haven for pathogens, as well as a wintering place for harmful insects. In order not to create problems in your own garden, the leaves must be cut to a height of 10-15 cm and removed from the site.
If we talk about when to prune irises for the winter, then you should focus on your region. In the middle zone, this is done before the first frost, in early November. Accordingly, in the north you can start earlier, in the south – later. If you don’t want to guess the timing and monitor the weather forecast, cut off the leaves of irises during the rainy season - this will provide the plant with better ventilation and prevent water from stagnating in the roots.
You need to trim the flowers along with the ovules on irises immediately after flowering, and two weeks after that, the flower stems themselves. No more than 2 cm should remain from the peduncles - this will avoid rotting.
Irises can be planted both in spring and autumn. However, if you want bulbous irises to surely please you with flowering in next season, then give preference to autumn planting.
All types of irises grow, bloom and overwinter better when planted in an elevated, well-ventilated, illuminated place. They do not like stagnant moisture or dense soils, so for an iridarium you should choose an area with well-drained soil.
Autumn planting and replanting of irises is carried out immediately after the leaves of the plant have dried. The bulbs are cleared of soil, the baby is separated, then the planting material is dried and planted in a new place at the end of September or beginning of October. Plants use the warm season to take root, but do not have time to grow.
Before planting, all bulbs should be cleaned of old skin and disinfected.
After division, rhizomatous irises are planted in the same way. Moreover, both of these freshly transplanted flowers must be covered for the winter, regardless of their variety, because they are still too weak to overwinter on their own.
The winter hardiness of irises, and therefore the need for shelter for the winter, depends on their variety and type. The most fragile and delicate are the bulbous Dutch, Japanese and Spanish varieties (Wedgwood, Cajanus), rhizomatous irises (combed iris, nameless iris, lake iris), as well as all tall varieties of bearded iris.
Iridodictiums (Vinogradov's iris, Dunford's iris, reticulated iris), as well as British bulbous varieties, are more resistant to our winters. Of the rhizomatous irises, this group includes leafless iris, Bieberstein iris and dwarf iris.
And finally, they winter quietly even in the most harsh years wild beardless irises (Siberian iris, marsh iris, bristly iris, oriental iris and yellow iris).
Before covering the irises for the winter, it is necessary to loosen the row spacing and treat the top of the rhizomes and the remains of the leaves with fungicides (Alirin-B, Baktofit, Vectra, Gamair, etc.). But if you decide to feed irises for the winter, then choose a mineral complex without nitrogen.
If the irises of the third group can be sent for winter after pruning and processing without additional effort, then with the first two you will have to tinker. It is necessary to cover irises for the winter with the onset of frost, when the rainy period has come to an end, i.e. approximately in the middle - second half of November. It is not worth doing this earlier, because during rainfall the covered irises may dry out. Peat, humus, shavings or straw are perfect for shelter. Cover the iris so that there is a 10-centimeter loose layer above the bulbs or roots, and place spruce branches on top.
If you notice that bulbous irises of some varieties in your area regularly freeze, treat them as you would with gladioli - dig them up for the winter. This should be done after the leaves have completely dried. Trimmed and insecticide-treated bulbs must be dried for a month at a temperature of about 25°C and then stored in a cool, dry room.
Even winter-hardy varieties rhizomatous irises must be covered in the first year of life and after 4-5 years of age, when the roots begin to protrude from the ground.
In spring, irises awaken early and calmly tolerate temperature changes, so you can remove their cover as soon as the snow melts in the garden. Under the daytime sun, you can easily discover all the problems that have arisen over the winter. Perhaps the shelter did not help, and part of the iris still froze. Then he will need treatment:
This treatment will allow the iris to bloom this year and prevent the process of rotting from starting.
You can always say, “Why do I need this effort? Irises will bloom without them!” But believe me, when you see how grateful these plants can be and how magnificently and amicably they bloom after a carefree winter, you will not even remember the time spent.
Many gardeners love garden iris, which is easy to care for and can easily withstand wintering. Only hybrid varieties can bring difficulties. Today we will talk about the features of caring for these.
The most winter-hardy varieties are those of domestic selection, as well as foreign ones that have stood the test of time. Tall plants are among the most vulnerable. Most species have good protection from frost with a 30-centimeter snow cover. In the Moscow region, dwarf and medium-sized irises can overwinter completely without shelter. It’s not winter that brings more harm, but spring frosts, since young buds may die.
Timely preparation for winter affects the quality of wintering.
It is recommended to keep bulbous varieties in dry conditions after flowering., watering sparingly if necessary. Because the root system The plant is located on the soil surface, a large amount of moisture threatens the appearance of dark spots on the foliage and their complete rotting. In addition, the death of the flower is not excluded.
After the bud has bloomed and dried out, it is removed. This process prevents the formation of seeds, the ripening of which takes a lot of energy from the plant. As a result, the number of flowers on one plant will increase, and repeated flowering will form on some types of irises.
A bush without faded buds looks much more beautiful, even if flowering has already stopped. After all, wilted flowers from irises acquire Brown color which spoils appearance plants. Some varieties of iris can spread throughout the site by self-seeding, thereby creating additional difficulties in removing them in unnecessary places.
Some gardeners prefer to preserve the ovules of some varieties because of their attractive appearance. For example, stinking iris and leopard lily have beautiful seeds.
Autumn pruning requires several simple rules:
The cut areas must be sprinkled with crushed charcoal.
In the fall, especially after transplantation, when the plant forms a root, it needs to be fertilized with potassium and phosphorus (no more than 40 g per sq. m). It is also important to fertilize seedlings to ensure abundant flowering for the next season. Irises do not tolerate manure, therefore it is not recommended to use this type of fertilizer.
The use of a large number of drugs leads to abundant growth of greenery, which harms the quality of wintering. After all the leaves of the plant have been cut off, it must be covered with peat or dry oak leaves. Careful care and proper feeding in moderate quantities guarantees annual lush flowering.
Duration autumn planting is about one and a half months. It is important to time the planting so that the iris takes root before frost.
The characteristics of the plant's growing season influence the choice of planting time. After winter ends, plants with healthy and developed roots begin to rapidly grow leaves. In the summer months, new links grow with young and fragile buds, which are easily damaged during planting.
Many gardeners consider the autumn months to be the most suitable time for planting. At this time, the plant has a fairly developed root, and the buds have already become lignified and strengthened. After transplantation, the iris will take root and immediately begin to grow when the spring thaw arrives.
Before planting the plant, you need to choose a suitable area, which should be open and sunny, because both the above-ground part and the starchy root need light. The bed should have a slight slope to the south. This way, excess moisture will drain away and the entire planting area will be evenly illuminated.
Irises love slightly acidic loams. During digging, the following must be added to the soil:
Because nitrogen fertilizers stimulate green growth, preventing the plant from preparing for winter period, it is not recommended to use them during autumn planting.
A week before the planned autumn planting, the beds should be prepared so that the soil has time to settle and compact. As a result, the seedlings will not go too deep into the ground.
Planting pits should not be very deep so that the root collar is above the soil level. After a couple of weeks, you can check the quality of rooting of the plant. If you pull it slightly, the root system will hold the plant in the ground, preventing it from being pulled out.
In southern regions with a mild climate, where there are no very coldy, irises do not require special preparation for winter. Otherwise, without appropriate shelter, the flower may die. If snow falls early and persists until spring, only young bushes can be covered, leaving winter-hardy varieties without shelter.
Very often during the summer upper layer soil is washed away by rain, exposing roots. To protect them from vulnerability, in the fall it is necessary to pour a layer of earth, peat or humus on top.
The material for the shelter can be the paws of coniferous trees or other dry material found in the garden. It is better not to use straw or fallen leaves that are prone to overheating, as the plant may develop various diseases and mold will appear.
You should not rush to remove the shelter with the arrival of the first thaw. If frost returns, the plant may be damaged. If you want to supply oxygen, the shelter can be carefully turned.
Irises look beautiful both alone and together with other flowers. Not all varieties bloom the first year after planting, so you should be patient and continue to care for the plants. At 3–4 years old, the iris will definitely delight you with its bright colors.
