Some summer residents are afraid to have small chickens because it is a very responsible and troublesome job. Little chicks demand special conditions content. It is very important to maintain the temperature for the chicks, feed them correctly and keep them in the right conditions. Keeping chickens after an incubator is not an easy task, but if you try, the result will please the owner.
Not all chickens from the incubator are in excellent health. And the cost of an unhealthy chicken will be too high. Therefore, you need to remember some criteria by which you can choose good young animals for your chicken coop:
The most dangerous period for the life and health of chickens is the first weeks of life. At this time they demand to themselves special attention and must be maintained in optimal conditions. Caring owner must provide them with the most best care at home:
Chicks that have dried out should be transferred from the incubator directly to the laying hen. If you don’t have such a chicken, then prepare a box of cardboard or wood for them in advance. It should be of such a size that all the chicks fit there and have room for them to move. In such “houses” they quickly adapt and grow stronger. The box should be in a dry and warm place so that future chickens feel good.
At the bottom of the box you should put a cloth folded in several layers. Some summer residents lay down newspaper, but this should not be done. A slippery surface can cause a weak leg to dislocate or fracture.
When the first days of life are over, the chickens have long since become stronger, they can be moved to the chicken coop. This room must be prepared in advance. To prevent infections from developing, you must keep your chicken coop clean, warm, and dry at all times. So, here are the basic requirements that must be met regarding the premises:
Chicks can be taken for their first walk within a week after birth. On the first day, they should walk for no more than an hour and a half, and then they can increase the time spent in the fresh air. When the chickens get used to the street, they can spend the entire daylight hours in an equipped pen. It should be made of a net that will not let fugitives out of the pen and will not allow hunters in for easy money. As is known, Sun rays is a source of vitamin D. By receiving it, chickens undergo a preventive course against rickets.
Caring for young animals includes providing the necessary temperature and light. In the first month of life, chicken chicks have virtually no thermoregulation, so the owner must carefully monitor the temperature in the place where the chickens are located. On the first day after the incubator it should stay at +35 degrees V. Next, you can gradually reduce to 30 degrees.
To heat a box or chicken coop, experienced farmers use regular incandescent lamps. They should be located at a height of forty centimeters from the floor. Chicks should be able to stand under the lamp at any time if they are cold or hide from its rays if they become too hot. You should monitor your temperature for the first month and a half.
In the place where chickens live there must be a thermometer. It should be hung at a height of ten centimeters from the floor. If its initial indicator should be +35 degrees, then by the end of the second month of life the chicks will need +21 degrees.
It is very easy to determine whether young animals live comfortably. It is enough to observe their behavior for some time. Chicks that are cold try to stay together, move little, and huddle together. This condition leads to illness and even death. And if they frolic and have a good appetite, this means that they like everything and the owner can be calm.
Another important factor is light. In the first days, chicks need constant lighting.. Later, you can turn off the lamp for 15 minutes. The older the young become, the shorter their daylight hours should be. Light is an excellent growth stimulator for chicken chicks.
What else does the proper development of chickens depend on? Of course, from nutrition. Their pecking instinct has been developed since birth, so there is no need to bottle feed them. Their menu should include the following products:
For the first ten days, chickens should receive food every two hours, then 6 times a day, and then no more than four. It is recommended to sprinkle food in the places where they are located. Food in the feeder can cause severe crowding. To make sure the chicks are eating, watch them. Well-fed chickens go to bed after eating.
If among the young you notice that some chicks are less active and do not eat well, then it is better to place them in a separate box. There they will be able to get stronger and quickly catch up with their brothers. And in a common box they can simply be trampled.
Chickens always have fresh boiled water must be poured. A saucer and a jar turned upside down are used as a drinking bowl. Thus, water constantly fills the saucer and fluff does not get into it. It is important that the water is always fresh and the drinking bowl is clean.
There are two ways to raise broilers, but experienced farmers have chosen one, the best one - intensive farming:
Raising young chicks at home under a laying hen is the most reliable way raise healthy young animals. A responsible laying hen will teach her chickens everything she knows. She will be able to show them how to get food and protect themselves from enemies. Keeping chickens with laying hens makes the owner's life much easier.
If you decide to give the chicken chicks from the incubator, then it is better to do it at night. After all, she may not accept chicks, so on the first night, while the mother is sitting on her eggs, several day-old chicks are placed under her. In the morning the owner checks to see if she accepted them. If the result is positive, the rest can be added the next night.
In early spring, a hen can warm no more than 15 chickens, and in summer you can feed up to 20 chickens. The care of the chickens will now be provided by the laying hen, and the owner can only provide her with optimal conditions for raising young animals.
The purchase of a home incubator replaces the need for owners of domestic laying birds and allows them to produce over 90% of offspring. As reviews indicate, if a farmer has a breeding goal poultry, then the incubator will be a smart investment that will pay off within 2-3 times of its use. The range of devices for breeding chickens today is large. It's quite difficult to understand. In the article we offer you a description of one of the devices - “Ryabushka IB-130”. You will learn how to handle it and how to achieve maximum chick hatching.
An incubator (from the Latin incubare - to hatch chicks) is a device that, by maintaining constant temperature and humidity levels, allows chicks to be artificially hatched from the eggs of farm birds. The Ryabushka-2 130 incubator from the Ukrainian manufacturer UTOS (Kharkov) is used for hatching chicks in a small household.
The eggs of various poultry can be laid in it. Chicks raised artificially, as a rule, do not differ from those hatched by laying hens. 
"Ryabushka" is a small rectangular device made from a high-quality pressed foam body white in the form of a suitcase. The top cover is equipped with viewing windows through which you can observe the incubation process. With its help, you can breed young animals throughout the year. The number of incubations per year is 10.
Did you know? The simplest incubators were made by the ancient Egyptians over 3 thousand years ago. They used straw burning to heat the eggs. In European countries and America, devices for hatching chicks began to be used en masse in the 19th century. In Russia they began to be used in the first half of the 20th century.
The incubator has small dimensions. Its weight is 4 kg, length - 84 cm, width - 48 cm, height - 21.5 cm. These dimensions make it easy to carry the device from place to place. The incubator operates from a mains voltage of 220 V. It consumes no more than 60 W of power. No more than 10 kW of electricity is consumed during the 30-day incubation period. The service life if the instructions are followed is 10 years. Warranty - 1 year.
The manufacturer states on the packaging and in the instructions that the incubator holds:
However, the stated amount of material held corresponds to manual turning. If you plan to use a mechanical revolution, then the following should be placed in the incubator:
Important! It is forbidden to hatch eggs at the same time different birds, since each of them requires different parameters and incubation times. So, chicken eggs need to be kept in an incubator for 21 days, duck and turkey eggs - 28, quail eggs - 17.
Inside the device there are 4 40 W lamps for heating and 2 thermometers that allow you to control temperature and humidity. According to the manufacturer, the error in air temperature can be no more than 0.25°, humidity - 5%. Ventilation is carried out using special holes with plugs.
Thermoregulation - using an automatic thermostat. The incubation temperature is maintained at +37.7-38.3°C. Depending on the model, the thermostat can be analog or digital. The optimal level of humidity is achieved due to the evaporation of water, which is poured into special vessels. 
There are no egg trays in the middle of the device. The incubation material is separated from each other by wire-shaped partitions. The coup mode is mechanical. However, if it is not installed, then the revolution can be done manually. There is also a model with automatic egg turning and a digital thermostat.
Like anyone household appliance, the Ryabushka 130 incubator has both advantages and disadvantages. Among the advantages:
Users note the following disadvantages of the device:
Before you start working with the incubator, you should read the instructions. Most often, the cause of breakdown or damage to the incubation material is the incorrect actions of the owner of the device during its operation.
In order to hatch as many healthy chicks as possible, eggs should be selected before loading into the incubator. First of all, they must be fresh. Suitable for storing are those specimens that have been stored for no longer than 4-6 days (turkey and goose - 6-8 days) at a temperature of +8-12°C and a humidity of 75-80% in a dark room. With each additional day of storage, the quality of the eggs will decrease. Thus, when storing incubation material for 5 days, the hatchability will be 91.7%, and within 10 days - 82.3%. 
It is forbidden to wash the incubation material - this can wash off the protective layer, which will have a bad effect on incubation. You should choose medium-sized eggs - weighing 56-63 g, without damage to the shell, without stains or dirt on it. You will also need an ovoscope to determine the placement of the yolk, and disinfection with a solution of potassium permanganate or hydrogen peroxide. When examined with an ovoscope, eggs should be discarded;
Important! Some time before loading, the eggs are brought in from the cool room where they were stored to warm up. Cold incubation material must not be placed in the incubator.
Before loading eggs, you should check that the heating and humidity systems are working properly. To do this, turn on the empty incubator so that it works for a day. After this, check the temperature and humidity levels. 
If everything is in order and the indicators are accurate or within the error stated by the manufacturer, then you can proceed to the next step - laying the incubation material. During incubation, the device should be in a room with an air temperature of +15-35°C. It should be installed away from heating and heating devices, open fire, sunlight and drafts.
In an incubator with a manual and mechanical turning system, eggs are placed in a horizontal position with the sharp end up. In a machine with automatic reversal - the blunt end up. With a manual turning system, for convenience and better orientation, marks should be placed on one side of the shell. Experienced poultry farmers advise laying incubation material in the time period from 17 to 22 hours. This way it will be possible to achieve daytime pipping of the chicks.
Incubation chicken eggs divided into 4 periods:
In the first period, the air temperature should be set at +38°C, humidity - 60-70%. In the second period, humidity should be maintained at a level slightly below 50%, air temperature - +37.5-37.7°C. The eggs are turned over every 3-4 hours. In the third period, the following indicators should be set: temperature - +37.3-37.5 ° C, humidity - 70-80%. Important! The operation of any incubator, even automatic, should be monitored every 8 hours.
On the 18th day, ovoscoping is carried out, discarding those eggs that do not contain an embryo. In the final period, the temperature is set at +37.2°C, and the humidity at 78-80%. There are no more rollovers.
But they add daily ventilation at least 2 times a day for 10-15 minutes. Don't be upset if the power goes out for a while. A short-term decrease in temperature in the incubator will not lead to damage to the incubation material. Overheating and dry air are more dangerous for eggs.
Chicks should be expected to hatch on the 20th-21st day. As a rule, all chicks hatch within one day. After pipping, the young are selected, leaving chicks with strong legs, shiny down, and active ones. After culling, they are kept in the incubator for some time to dry. After this, they are transferred to the brooder. 
The price for a device with a mechanical revolution is 650-670 hryvnia or 3470-3690 rubles and 25 dollars. A device with automatic reversal costs almost 2 times more - 1200 hryvnia or 5800 rubles, 45 dollars.
Did you know? Despite the fact that the shell in the egg seems dense and solid, it allows air to pass through so that the chicken can breathe. When viewed through a regular magnifying glass, you can see many pores in it. There are about 7.5 thousand of them in the shell of a chicken egg. During the 21 days a chicken spends in an egg, approximately 4 liters of oxygen enters it and approximately 4 liters evaporate from it carbon dioxide and 8 liters of water steam.
The Ryabushka 130 incubator is worth purchasing for owners of small farms who plan to grow a small amount of young animals It is easy to use, lightweight and durable. The main advantages noted by people who use it on the farm are low price at high functionality. The Ryabushka machine for 130 eggs is presented in 3 lines and price categories.
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To raise chicks, many owners use special technical means, moving away from the natural method of hatching chickens. Incubators can completely replace chicken and create the necessary conditions for the development of the embryo in the egg.
The devices have a complex structure and require certain care. The incubator heater is one of the main components of the device.
In order for an egg to become a bird, special conditions are required. Recreating a natural process artificially requires special temperature, humidity, and air circulation. The main one in this list is the heat indicator. Precisely because of the low or high temperature The bird that dies the most is never hatched.
An incubator heater is a special part in the apparatus that helps regulate temperature regime. It is with its help that it is possible to achieve the desired indicator and maintain heat throughout the entire incubation period.
The heating element may be different types and types. It all depends on the brand of the incubator, its capacity, and the materials used for manufacturing.
The location of the part is possible:
The main task is to uniformly heat the air over the entire area of the device. The incubator is heated from the moment the eggs are laid until they hatch. The element works constantly and without it the entire incubator becomes unusable.
A correctly selected heater guarantees the owner a high output percentage. It has been established that a bird can appear only at a special temperature (for example, for chicken optimal indicator– 37.5-39 ‘C depending on the incubation period). If you reduce or increase the heat level, you can be left without chickens, since the embryo will die while still in the egg.
Therefore, when choosing an apparatus, first of all, you need to pay attention to the heating of the incubator. Without the correct equipment, hatching chicks becomes impossible.
Today, households widely use electric heating of incubators. It ensures optimal operation of the device with constant maintenance temperature without mechanical human intervention. Eat different types such details:
The use of lamps is most common in subsidiary farming. This option is convenient to use because if an element breaks, it is easiest to replace it using any other lamp at hand. The downside is that there is often an uneven temperature distribution. This is especially true when incandescent lamps are used.
If there is insufficient ventilation inside the device, the heat generated is concentrated near the light sources themselves, creating large temperature differences between in different parts incubator.
Also, the use of halogen and ceramic lamps is practiced. It is more difficult to work with them, since they have specific heat radiation, and sometimes it is difficult to regulate the temperature level itself. Another disadvantage is the constant emission of light, which is not present during the natural process of hatching chickens.
The heating element heating of the incubator is also often used. The main advantage is that when correct design incubator, heat distribution remains uniform around the entire perimeter of the apparatus. But the built-in heating element is difficult to change if it breaks, especially if it is hidden in the walls or bottom.
Infrared film
IN Lately parts with infrared heating. Their main advantage is that they distribute heat evenly, while consuming the least amount of energy.
This helps the owner save money, since during 18-20 days of incubation the device must work continuously.
The downside is that you need to buy additional lamps, since if they break down it will be difficult to find them on the farm.
Heat cords and films are more often used in industrial incubators. The advantage of the parts is that they can provide the right warmth and maintain it at the required level for a long time.
The main disadvantage is that it is difficult to replace. As a rule, specialists deal with such issues.
The cost of the elements varies. average price for each type:
It is worth considering that the price will increase depending on exactly how many heating elements are required in the incubator.
There are many recommendations on how to make a heating element for an incubator with your own hands. Let's consider the most optimal and simplest option that everyone can handle.
The basis will be a heating element made of resistors. The main advantage of this scheme is that the materials for the element are easily accessible and are simply mounted into the incubator structure itself. One of the disadvantages is that the structure will be large, so it will require strong fastening.
For standard heating of an incubator with a capacity of 20 to 60 eggs, a heater with a power of 100 W will be sufficient. Therefore, they use the following configuration of components: 4 Soviet-type resistors (2.2 kOhm, 25 W). Parts are very easy to find, unlike their modern counterparts, which must be ordered and then wait a couple of weeks for delivery.
It is recommended to use parallel connection of elements. What is its advantage? The fact is that if one part of the structure fails, the remaining parts will continue to work. During the incubation process, where constant heating is required, this will be an ideal solution.
Each element operates at full capacity, which affects its service life. Therefore, some prefer to combine compounds, use additional elements, such as a homemade 12v heating element for an incubator. As a result, it is possible to reduce the load on components and extend their performance.
The manufacturing instructions are simple:
Subsequently, the structure is inserted into the incubator. For greater efficiency, it is better to cover the walls in the cabinet with foil to save heat inside the device. This heating element is used in the lower part under the tray with eggs.
Heating in the incubator will be uniform and, due to the resistors used, will provide desired temperature for hatching eggs.
You can see how the heating element works and what its features are in the video:
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The BI-1 incubator is distinguished by its popularity in households and small farmers. This is connected with his affordable price, compactness, ease of use.
The Laying Incubator BI-1 is intended for hatching poultry chicks: chickens, quails, ducklings, goslings, pheasants and pigeons.
Device diagram (explanations in the text)
The body (item 1) is lined with expanded polystyrene, which gives the equipment lightness and excellent thermal insulation properties. In the upper part (on the lid - pos. 2) there is a glass viewing window (pos. 3), necessary for monitoring the temperature on the thermometer and the condition of the eggs. At the bottom there are containers with cells for water (items 8, 11), as well as devices that monitor the state of the environment inside the incubator: an evaporator, a thermometer and a sensor (items 4,5,6). BI-1 can be equipped with a thermostat (item 9) of analogue or digital type. Models are also sold in which the thermostat is combined with a moisture meter (item 10).
The equipment operates from a 220 V electrical network (item 7). BI-1 models are also available, which can operate on a 12V battery. This option is suitable in areas where power outages occur frequently. Operating temperature range – 33-45°C.
The package includes a grill for placing chicken eggs. To hatch chicks of other birds, the element must be purchased additionally.
In BI-1 stores Nesushka is presented in a variety of models:
The equipment also varies in capacity and dimensions, respectively.
Table. Capacity and dimensions of the BI-1 incubator for chicken eggs.
| Capacity with grill and AUP | Capacity without grille and AUP | Dimensions, mm |
|---|---|---|
| 36 | 50 | 540*340*310 |
| 63 | 90 | 590*520*290 |
| 77 | 100 | 720*520*290 |
| 104 | 140 | 730*600*310 |
TO merits incubator BI-1 include:
"Nesushka" has BI-1 and flaws. They are determined mainly by the material of the case. These include:
If we compare BI-1 with other popular models, we can highlight a number of advantages. With a small size, the case has a larger capacity. Requires less power to operate. A wide temperature and humidity range increases functionality.
Table. Comparative characteristics incubators.
| Parameter | BI-1 Laying hen | Cinderella | Blitz-100TS |
|---|---|---|---|
| Capacity, pcs | 104 | 98 | 60 |
| Turn | Auto | Auto | Auto |
| Housing material | Expanded polystyrene | Expanded polystyrene | Expanded polystyrene |
| Temperature control range, °C | 33-45 | 35-42 | 35-40 |
| Humidity range, % | 20-85 | 25-85 | 30-90 |
| Power consumption, W | 60 | 75 | 70 |
| Network operation | 220V | 220V | 220V |
| Dimensions, mm | 730*600*310 | 885*550*275 | 900*610*305 |
| Weight, kg | 4,3 | 5,0 | 6,0 |
| Cost, rub | 4500-5000 | 4000-4800 | 6000-6500 |
To get a healthy brood of birds, you must strictly follow the instructions. General recommendations for use are as follows. For the incubator to function properly, it must be placed in appropriate conditions. For this purpose it is used dry room, in which the temperature is set in the range of 20-25°C. It is prohibited to increase above 35°C or decrease from 15°C. The premises must always be supplied Fresh air. The ventilation openings in the housing must always remain open. The incubator should not be exposed to direct sunlight. Do not install the device on the floor or in a draft.
The BI-1 incubator can be operated in 2 modes (depending on the type): automatic or manual. In the first case, the equipment is equipped with a digital display and buttons. With their help, you can set, save and maintain certain humidity and temperature values. Egg turning is done using the AUP.
In manual mode, an analog thermostat is used. In it, the parameters are set manually. And the turning of the eggs in the process is carried out independently.
The process itself is performed in the following sequence.
During the incubation period, the following actions must be taken:
Façade improvement is one of the most important stages construction, on which depends not only appearance, but also the durability of the house. A properly finished facade protects against heat loss, minimizes the impact of the environment on the walls of the building, and increases the service life of building materials.
The fundamental difference between façade panels is that they can be installed both vertically and horizontally. Thanks to this, they are equally effective on flat and convex surfaces.
It can be done, the main thing is to strictly follow the instructions.
Finishing the facade begins with the choice of material. There are several types of panels:
The installation technology for each type is different.
Metal panels are made of high-quality galvanized steel, and a special coating reliably protects the color from fading for ten years. The disadvantage of the material is its heavy weight, which additionally loads the supporting structure.
Often they are finished with metal siding one-story houses and garages.
To install panels of this type, you will need the following tools:
The installation procedure consists of several stages, but it all begins traditionally with preparation.
Stage 1. The walls of the house are measured, which will allow you to correctly calculate the required amount of building materials.
Stage 2. In order to visually assess the location of the future frame, a drawing is drawn. If necessary, the design is adjusted.
Stage 3. Installation of the frame. The first profile is attached at an angle of 90ᵒ to the ground, all subsequent ones are installed in the same way in half a meter increments. All supporting profiles are secured with dowels.
Important! If the distance between the vertical bulkheads is 50 cm, then the length of the transverse ones should be 60 cm - 5 cm for cuts on each side.
There is another way - to buy an expensive ready-made frame for installing the panels. But this frame must be attached directly to the wall of the house, and materials such as foam concrete, red or sand-lime brick not suitable for this - from large quantity holes they may collapse.
Stage 4. Insulation is installed in the resulting rectangles - mineral wool or polystyrene foam.
Stage 5. All that remains is to attach the metal siding to the frame. To achieve this, the panels have hidden seams that allow you to hide the screw heads and make the structure solid.
Such panels are new in the field finishing materials. They consist of a base (mostly compressed foam) and an outer decorative covering. The panels perform two functions simultaneously:
There are no significant disadvantages, except perhaps the high cost.
Finishing the facade like this decorative panels- the simplest and fastest siding option. This became possible thanks to special grooves that allow you to securely fix the joined panels. No seams are visible.
The panels are installed with construction adhesive applied with a notched trowel. Manufacturers indicate the proportions in which the adhesive solution is prepared on the packaging.
Gluing occurs as follows: The panel is applied to the wall, after three minutes it comes off, and after another two it is glued again. This improves the stability and adhesion of materials.
Important! If the panel does not stick when re-applied, it means that the adhesive mixture is not suitable or was not applied in sufficient quantity.
Installation is carried out in rows, moving from bottom to top. This way the bottom row will support the top row. After laying one row, take a half-hour break to allow the glue to dry (it will take a day to dry completely), optimal temperature environment – 20-25ᵒС.
This refers to products made from pressed foam. The advantages of this material are obvious:
Disadvantages include susceptibility to various types of mechanical damage, as well as the fact that if one panel is replaced, it will be necessary major renovation the entire wall.
Important! Installation of such panels is carried out in the same way as in the previous version (panels with decorative tiles).
Such panels can only be used for finishing one-story buildings due to their impressive weight. Despite the special impregnations with which the products are treated, the first care will be required within a few seasons after installation. If handled properly, this siding will last for decades.
As with metal siding, there are two options:
Self-cladding happens as follows.
Stage 1. First, the frame is assembled from wooden beam. The first rack is attached perpendicular to the ground, all subsequent ones are installed in the same way in half a meter increments. After this, the transverse racks are installed. Instead of wood, the frame can be built from a metal profile.
Stage 2. The frame (if it is wooden) is treated with stain and antiseptics to protect against insects, precipitation, wind, etc.
Important! Vertical posts cannot be placed directly on the ground - you need to make special linings, otherwise the tree will absorb moisture from the soil and will soon rot.
Stage 3. The space between the racks is filled with mineral wool.
Stage 4. The panels are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.
The finished design vaguely reminiscent suspended ceiling. Installation procedure in in this case quite simple.
Stage 1. The outer guides are attached.
Stage 2. Then step by step, equal to length boards, internal ones are installed.
Stage 3. Siding is inserted between the guides. The first stripe is installed, the second, the third, etc.
Stage 4. After this, the top row is leveled and covered with a wooden frame for fixation.
This installation option has significant disadvantages, including the almost complete lack of thermal and noise insulation.
Important! There is another variety wood panels– long-strip siding. It consists of sheets long V six meters, which are secured with dowels or liquid nails not on the frame, but directly on the wall. A minimum of two people are required for installation.
PVC panels are a cheap and easy-to-install method of façade finishing, characterized by a wide model range and, therefore, a mass of possible design solutions. The only drawback is the appearance. From a close distance, even with the naked eye it is noticeable that the house is covered with plastic.
PVC panels are installed only horizontally. To work you will need:
Stage 1. First, a visual inspection of the house is carried out, the location for installation of the first row is determined. This series must match old decoration or close top part foundation (if we're talking about about the new building).
Stage 2. All necessary components are installed - internal and external corners, trim, first strip, etc. You should start from the corners, leaving a small gap of 6.5 mm between them and the eaves of the building.
Stage 3. Installation of the first row is the most critical stage of finishing the facade, on which the evenness of the entire siding depends. First, the boundary of the first row is determined, after which a horizontal line is drawn on the wall. When installing the first strip, this line will serve as a guide.
Important! There should be a 1.27 cm gap between the ends of two adjacent panels.
Stage 4. The appropriate accessories are installed on the door and windows - trims, flashings, final trims. For greater accuracy, the strips of material are joined at an angle of 45ᵒ.
Stage 5. The remaining panels are installed from bottom to top, focusing on the first row. Each panel is inserted into the profile and nailed (not completely). The interval between panels should be 0.4 cm, and between them and other components - from 0.6 cm to 1.25 cm.
The panels are overlapped one on top of the other by ½ of the factory mark, while vertical overlaps should be avoided - they are more noticeable from the facade.
Stage 6. At the top edge, the sheets are installed in the same way as under the windows. Only whole panels are used; trimming is possible only for gables. When installing the last row, use J --shaped profile with holes ø6 mm, made in increments of 0.5 m (for draining water from the roof).
For more detailed information on installation features facade buildings We invite you to watch the thematic video material.
