Plastic doors are widespread almost everywhere: they are readily installed in industrial, public and residential buildings, since their cost is very reasonable. But along with the undoubted advantages, these designs also have a disadvantage: from time to time they have to be adjusted.
Fortunately, this procedure is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. And if you at least know approximately which side you need to grasp the screwdriver from, you will be able to handle it yourself without calling a specialist.
All you need is a modest set of tools and our article, from which you will learn how to properly adjust the structure and when, in fact, it needs to be done.
Most users of plastic doors realize the need for adjustment already when the signs of “disease” become more than noticeable:
But it is not at all necessary to bring it to such a deplorable state.
A clear sign that a plastic door requires your attention is wrinkles on the seal. Carefully inspect the sealing cord around the entire perimeter of the opening. If damage is detected, do not hesitate to proceed with adjustments, even if everything is still functioning quite well.
Tip: to protect the seal from irreversible deformation, coat it with a silicone-based compound.
Open the plastic door slightly and leave it in that position, standing still and trying not to breathe. If adjusted properly, it will remain motionless; if it is skewed, it will spontaneously close or open. Of course, the results of the experiment should not be affected by drafts natural origin or from fast-moving household members.
Quite witty and graphic method. To implement it you will need a pencil and a damp cloth. Having previously taken a position on the side opposite to the opening of the door, close it and draw along the contour door leaf(perimeter) along the racks and horizontal slats of the box, four straight lines, using them like a ruler. In order to evaluate the results of your creativity, the door must be opened. Ideally, the drawn lines and edges of the canvas will be parallel. Deviations from parallelism will tell you in which direction and at what angle the misalignment occurred. Upon completion of the diagnosis, do not forget to wipe everything with a damp cloth.
Another simple test will check the uniformity of door pressure. Place a sheet of newsprint so that when closing it is sandwiched between the door leaf and the frame. Now pull out the paper, remembering the force you had to apply to do this. Now, in the same way, insert the sheet a little higher or a little lower and pull it towards you again.
In addition to eliminating distortions, seasonal adjustments should be made to the pressure of plastic doors that separate the room from the street. With the onset of cold weather, the pressure on the door leaf must be strengthened in order to make the closure as tight as possible and thus prevent cold air from entering warm room. When the thermometer column creeps up, the clamp will need to be loosened. Leave the door with “winter” settings on summer season is impractical, since under conditions of increased pressure, the seal and block mechanisms quickly wear out.
If you decide to make the adjustment yourself, please prepare the following tools:
You can find out what to do if the key is stuck in the door lock.
To adjust metal-plastic doors we will use special screws that are installed in hinged mechanisms (hinges) under decorative overlay. There are three such screws on each hinge and each of them has its own zone of influence. Simply put, each screw pulls the door in its own direction.
Let's figure out in what cases and where exactly it needs to be pulled.
Distortion in the position of the door leaf often occurs due to its sagging. If the deviations reach critical values, the door begins to cling to top part vertical stand boxes (from the handle side) and behind the part of the threshold farthest from the hinge post.
The door may also rub along the entire length of the vertical post due to thermal expansion. In the first case, the door must be pressed against the hinge post only in the upper part, in the second - along the entire length. This is what horizontal adjustment is all about.
To implement this, it is necessary to use the longest of the adjusting screws, which have a horizontal location. By pulling it, we will move the door in the direction of the hinge post. If it is necessary to eliminate the distortion from sagging, tighten the screw more firmly on the top hinge and a little less on the middle one. If you are struggling with the result of temperature deformation, tighten the screws evenly on all three hinges.
Read what to do if you need to insulate metal doors.
If the door only catches the threshold, and along its entire length, then it simply “slipped” down without creating a distortion. In this case, they resort to vertical adjustment of the door, that is, raising it or, as happens when incorrect installation or due to the same temperature expansion, lowering.
The screw that needs to be operated on in this case, is located vertically, and its head is located at the lower end of the loop. By tightening this screw, we will raise the door, and by loosening it, we will lower it.
By turning the third adjusting screw on each hinge, you can change the tightness of the door pressing against the seal from the side of the hinge post. In order to achieve the same from the handle side, you should first carefully examine the end of the door leaf.
Some models are equipped with three eccentrics, which, like the hinges, are located at the top, bottom and middle. The eccentrics should be turned with the same tool as the screws - a hexagon or asterisk.
Information about . may also attract your attention.
In other options, the door pressure on the handle side is adjusted by turning the locking pin located on the frame. This trunnion, as a rule, has a notch, by the position of which one can judge the degree of compaction.
Also, to strengthen or weaken the clamping density, you can change the position of the strikers located on the door frame. Like the hinges, they are equipped with adjustment screws.
What is facing stone for the facade you will find out.
For more information on how to independently correct the shortcomings of plastic structures, see the video.
If the hinge adjustment plastic door did not save the situation, which means either they have exhausted their resource, or the door “floated”, turning from a rectangle into a parallelogram. In both cases, through simple operations you can try to change its shape:
Find out the structure of the front door lock.
You can tighten a loose handle with a very simple technique.
In the place where the handle is attached to the door leaf, there is a small plate that can be rotated around the same axis as the handle.
If, after increasing the pressure, the handle begins to turn more tightly, this is normal. But if you have to exert too much force to turn it, then you have overdone the pressure or the door needs to be checked for distortion. Well, if the handle barely turns even by open door– it’s time to lubricate the mechanism or look for a replacement.
We have learned how to adjust plastic doors ourselves, but is there anything we can do to make sure we have to do this as little as possible? From unnecessary hassle the owner of a PVC door will be spared the installation of two devices:
It is best to ask the supplier to install these mechanisms at the stage of ordering the door, but some of their varieties can be installed even if the plastic door has already been manufactured and installed in place.
Plastic doors have proven themselves to be a reliable mechanism with a long service life. However, already during the first years of use, most owners are looking for information on how to adjust plastic doors - entrance or balcony. Finding defects in structural elements boxes and canvases precedes the start of adjustment and repair work. Most problems can be corrected by tightening individual threaded connections.
Under some circumstances, a PVC product requires urgent adjustment. Without doing this right away, you can expect that the structure will soon become unusable and will have to be dismantled. Experts recommend carrying out maintenance annually; more frequent repair work will lead to rapid wear of the product. This is due to wear and tear plastic frame, seals, adjustment screws and microlifts.
To detect deficiencies and adjust the correct position, you should consider characteristic features, indicating problems with this design:
The main condition for proper repair and adjustment is accurate determination of the location of the fault.
The sagging of the frame can be judged after performing this simple test: closed sash should be outlined with a marker. Deviations of the outlines from the horizontal and vertical are a signal to begin adjustment. If the doors open tightly and there is a draft coming from them, this is a reason to start urgent repairs or adjustments.
Another informative test is carried out like this: when closing the door, insert a sheet of paper. If the sheet can be pulled out with some effort, then there is no need to adjust the plastic door. Free stretching of the sheet indicates an insufficiently tight fit in this area.
The reason for the shift of the canvas is temperature changes and deformation. Therefore, the sash touches the frame in the middle. Wear of the seal is the reason for the door seal to be compromised, which is the reason for regular renewal of the material. Replacing the seal should always precede adjustment.
Poor functioning of the handle and movement of the blade indicates the need for adjustment or repair. Common problems with plastic doors are:
A careful examination of the condition of the seal must be carried out before work begins. Dents are a consequence of the pressure in this area of the sagging sash. Complete replacement the seal is carried out when it is severely deformed.
To adjust the plastic entrance door, it is better to choose the following set of tools:
You should check the compliance of your actions with the recommendations contained in the manual at all stages of work. When adjusting plastic entrance doors yourself according to the instructions, you must strictly follow the specified sequence. During installation, it is advisable to control the horizontal and vertical position of the sash using building level.
Adjusting plastic doors does not require professionalism; it can be performed by anyone who has carefully studied the instructions.
Adjustment of the plastic entrance door is required when the leaf sag. For a door that is difficult to adjust, you need to loosen all horizontally located fasteners and start the adjustment again, tightening all the fasteners evenly in turn. The change in position of the canvas serves as a guide. Work is carried out with the sash open in the following sequence:
If there is friction of the sash near the threshold or there is a dent on the seals, then vertical adjustment is required. This is done by adjusting the screw located vertically in the loop.
To begin the adjustment, take a 5 mm hexagon, insert it into the screw hole and rotate. If the door needs to be raised, then the rotation is carried out clockwise, if lowered, then counterclockwise.
If the sash does not fit well to the frame, adjustment must be made using a screw located inside the door. Sometimes, to correct the defect, it is enough to tighten the screws located in the lower or upper hinges more strongly. With this setting, the loops are loosened or tightened. The result is evaluated experimentally during closure. If the seal is severely worn, it needs to be replaced. Using a screwdriver, the old seal is removed and the replacement is installed. Then the adjustment is repeated.
A common complaint from owners is that it’s broken. door knob, and the appearance of drafts is a direct consequence of the malfunction of this part of the door block. The most common breakdowns are:
Over time, the plastic entrance door can sag, depressurize and let in cold air into the room. Problems are indicated by its displacement relative to the frame due to gravity. Adjustment for sagging is carried out as follows:
In this case, the main task is to make the adjustment by moving the blade as close to the hinges as possible. To do this, the sash is moved first in the lower loop, and then in the upper one. It is enough to adjust the plastic front door once a season. In most cases, there is no need to repeat the procedure.
If a dent or other damage is noticeable on the upper seals, it is recommended to replace the seal, especially when the heating season is approaching.
To prevent problems from occurring, it makes sense to install an opening limiter, which relieves part of the load and prevents the door from impacting the opening slopes. This measure will avoid damage to locking mechanisms and handles. Installing a microlift is especially important in the presence of double-glazed windows and prevents sagging. Microlifts take up a share of the load, providing additional support.
Even the most good doors Over time, they may begin to creak or sag: no one can cancel the force of gravity and friction. And if you have heavy steel ones, then even the metal will get tired of holding them. After the summer, plastic ones also “sag” - they almost always remain open in the heat, which leads to such results. There is no need to tolerate these “disgraces,” nor is there any need to spend money on eliminating them. Although adjusting the entrance doors is a delicate matter, in most cases you can do it yourself. Once you have adjusted the hinges and the rebate with your own hands, you can easily repeat it later.
The solution to all these problems is called “adjusting the front door,” but this includes very different measures - from banal lubrication and replacement of the seal, to actual adjustments and mechanical influences.
Sometimes, to fix a problem, you need to go through all the methods, and sometimes the problem that has arisen can only be eliminated radically - by replacement. Most often, this situation occurs with cheap Chinese products. Adjusting entrance doors made in China practically impossible. Of course, you can try to do something with your own hands: companies and craftsmen do not undertake them.
Doors can creak for two reasons: the hinge grease is clogged or the door leaf touches the frame. Although both are called “creaking”, the nature of the sound is different. It’s easier to deal with clogged loops, so they usually start with this procedure.
First, remove the old grease, at the same time removing any dirt stuck to it. The procedure is standard: wipe with a soft cloth wherever marks are visible. If this procedure has not been done for several years, and the hinges are of a standard classic type, and even detachable, the fabric can be removed. It is better to clean it when removed.
If the hinges are rusty and cannot be removed even though they should, do not try to knock them off with a hammer or sledgehammer. You'll do more harm than good. It is better to buy a rust remover. It is usually sold in the form of sprays. Apply to the rusted hinge and wait for the prescribed period. Then remove the fabric from the loops and clean it. But this time it is necessary to remove all the rust. To bare metal, then coat with rust converter and only then with lubricant.
After the old lubricant is removed, take “fresh” and apply it to the hinges. If the blade is removed, no problems will arise - lubricate the pin and ring. If there are any other rubbing mechanisms visible on the frame, lubricate them too.
In traditional type hinges, creaking may occur due to the fact that the washer on the rod has worn off. You inspect it after you have removed the door panel. If there are signs of wear, replace them. Install a new carbide washer. You can use an engraver instead. It will also compensate for the load.
If the hinges are permanent, find a liquid lubricant in a can (the most common is WD40) or machine oil, which can be applied using a large syringe. Handle all rubbing parts carefully.
There is another method, but it is destructive. A hole is drilled in the upper part of the loop, which is then filled with lubricant. The trick is to not damage the mechanism inside.
If the hinges are hidden, find all the turning parts and lubricate them. Often these models have holes into which oil is applied.
After applying the lubricant, rock the doors from side to side several times, distributing the lubricant. If this was the reason, the squeak goes away. The final touch is to wipe off excess oil.
You must select a lubricant primarily based on the temperatures at which the loop is operated. If the loops go outside, you need a composition that does not thicken at low temperatures. There's not much choice here:
For entrance doors facing the entrance and operated at above-zero temperatures, several more items can be added to this list:
If the creaking remains after processing the hinges, it is most likely caused by friction of the door leaf against the frame. Inspect the door frame for scuffs. If you find any signs of abrasion, look at which loop is closest. It will need to be regulated, if possible.
The difficulty is that there are a lot of types and models of loops and it is impossible to say unambiguously what needs to be done. All that is possible is to list the main points that may exist. Based on them, you may be able to determine how to “treat” your door.
Two types of loops for the entrance metal door with adjustment
Standard hinges do not provide adjustment options. In this case, adjusting the entrance doors consists of replacing the washer. Select them of greater or lesser thickness, adjusting the position of the door leaf. Some hinges with a ball at the top have an adjustment screw. By unscrewing it, we lift the doors a little, and by twisting it, we lower them. You can try to correct the situation with its help.
If standard hinges are on steel door welded, we can assume that the possibilities have been exhausted. If they are mounted on screws, loosen the fastening screws and move the sash in the desired direction as far as possible. Then the screws are tightened. Check to see if the problem has gone away. If not, try with another loop. Sometimes it is necessary to loosen all the loops and tug the canvas in this position. In general, decide where to press and where to press.
There are hinge models in which the adjustment holes are hidden under a protective cap. But you can’t just remove it: it is secured with a bolt that can be unscrewed from inside the room. An example of adjusting such a loop is in the video.
If the hinges on the front door are screwed on, you can use them to eliminate friction between the door leaf and the frame. First, loosen the screws near the area where the wear occurs. Try to move the door leaf a little. To begin with, you can knock with your palm or fist, moving it in the desired direction. Try opening/closing a couple of times. Did it help? Screw the clamping screws back. And try to open/close again.
If it doesn’t help, you can use some kind of leverage, hit rubber mallet or hammer through the board. But don't overdo it. You need to handle Chinese products especially carefully: they are very flimsy.
If these manipulations also do not yield anything, you will have to loosen the screws on all the hinges and try to move the canvas over the entire area. Take it with your hands by the edge of the canvas and shake it. In this case, the loops should fall into place. You try to open and close. If there is no squeak, tighten the bolts. That's all, adjusting the front door hinges can't do more. The next thing you can try is to change the geometry of the door frame. More on this in the next paragraph.
The photo above (right picture) shows an adjustable hinge. By loosening the screws, you can turn the adjusting screw. It doesn’t help - we try to move the canvas as described above.
Sometimes there is a noticeable blow from under the front door. If you examine the perimeter, you will most likely find that in some place the fit of the door leaf to the door frame is loose. There may be a decent sized gap. You can check your suspicions with a piece of paper. Open the doors, insert a piece of paper between the door leaf and the jamb and close the doors. If the rebate is normal, the paper either stretches with very great force, or is clamped so tightly that it is impossible to remove it. Just break it up. If the sheet comes out freely, then the fit is insufficient.
The simplest explanation is that the seal has lost its elasticity. If the doors are several years old, this is possible. And the first thing you do is change the seal. Didn't help or only partially solved the problem? Let's move on.
Replacing the seal is the first step if there is leakage from under the front door
If the door leaf is displaced relative to the door in the horizontal plane, we try to eliminate the draft from under the front door by first moving the door leaf. This is described above: loosen the fastening screws on the hinges, then try to move the blade in the desired direction. Check the result - the gap has disappeared - tighten all the screws to their original position.
Sometimes gaps under the front door occur due to misalignment door frame. This is checked using a level. Most likely, it is skewed in the place where the sheet of paper can be easily removed. The second option, on the contrary, the box was pushed out in the place where the sheet is pressed, due to the fact that the “normal” part cannot be pressed. All this is determined using an eye gauge and a level. Having determined what the problem is, we try to return the geometry to normal. The measures depend on how the box is installed:
For an option to correct the gap in the vestibule, see the video. After entrance door installation It turned out that it was blowing strongly from under it. The owner corrected the distortion with a hammer.
If, after several years of operation, the doors begin to open with difficulty and rub against the threshold, most likely the problem is that the ball or bearings have worn out. If there are possible adjustments, you won’t even have to remove them. Simply unscrew one of the bolts and lift it slightly up.
If there is no adjustment, there are several options:
All this is determined based on the situation and the design of the loop.
The problems may be the same: friction, creaking hinges and loose connection to the frame, which can cause blowing. But door adjustment PVC is easier— hinges and mechanisms are standardized, there are not many types. So there is hope that you can deal with the problems yourself, without calling a specialist.
After the summer, the plastic doors to the balcony sag: in the summer they often remain open for a long time, which is why such a nuisance happens. Then they touch the threshold, it sounds unpleasant sound, the plastic wears off. In this case, you need to lift the canvas up. This is done using the adjustment located at the top of the lower hinge.
They do this when open lock, but the door is closed. Take a hex wrench (usually 4 or 5) and insert it into the hole and turn it a few turns. There is no need to lift too much right away, as this can cause other problems. Raise only until the problem is fixed.
Sometimes, when closing, the doors rub from the side, hitting the metal latches. It turns out that you need to move the canvas towards the loop part. For this there is another adjustment on the same hinge. It is located below, visible when the door is open.
This adjustment is also carried out with a couple of turns clockwise or counterclockwise. If you need the doors to not rub against the counter, turn counterclockwise. Give it a couple of turns and check. Once the problem goes away, stop. Otherwise, you can move it so much that the lock stops “clinging” to the mate.
If the upper left corner “clings”, you need to adjust the loop that is located at the top. The principle is the same: one or two turns until the problem is eliminated.
Top Hinge Adjustment - Top Left Corner Pressure
Sometimes weak pressure is observed from the side of the locking part. It seems that the canvas adjoins smoothly, but there is a noticeable pull from under the door. In summer this is not a problem, but with the onset of cold weather it significantly reduces the temperature. There are two ways. The first is to adjust the clamping pins. These are metal protrusions on the sash.
They come in two types. as in the photo above - oval and round, but with an eccentric in the middle. The position of this element determines the degree of pressing of the sash to the frame. The method of changing the position depends on the shape of the trunnion. If it is like in the photo, take pliers, clamp it and turn it slightly. The maximum pressure is if the long side is turned horizontally, the minimum is if it is directed vertically upward. There are also all the intermediate options.
If there is an eccentric in the center of the trunnion, then there is also a hole for the hexagon. Insert it and turn it, achieving the desired degree of pressure.
It is not recommended to set the stasis to the maximum value: the seals will quickly lose their elasticity. Also make sure that all eccentrics are rotated the same way. This guarantees normal operation of the fittings.
But sometimes there is a situation where the balcony door leaf is not pressed tightly on the hinge side. This can also be eliminated by adjusting the hinges. At the bottom it is located under a protective cap. Remove it (pull it up). Take the key (hexagon) and with a couple of turns adjust the clamping of the lower right corner of the plastic balcony door.
Also available on frame hidden hinges, which also include the ability to adjust the pressure. They are located on the frame on the hinge side. Adjustment with the same hex wrench. Turns “clockwise” and “counterclockwise”.
The plastic entrance doors have different hinges, and there are no locking and tilting fittings. They have closed loops of the overhead type. They have three adjustments:
They are sufficient if the doors were initially installed correctly: the limits for changing positions are significant, which makes it possible to compensate for those changes that occurred during operation.
If there is a squeak in the hinges, they need to be lubricated. To do this, remove the top cap and put lubricant into the opened hole. Since plastic doors are installed as entrance doors mainly in private houses and they go out onto the street or into an unheated vestibule, you select a lubricant that does not thicken at low temperatures (Litol and Solidol).
Put lubricant here
In some models of hinges, the lid is simply lifted off, in others, you need to unscrew it and then pull it out. Determined by location.
Sometimes a situation arises when intervention is required: the lock does not lock properly. If the sash pressure is normal, correction of the striker is necessary. She is mobile in such doors. Loosen the mounting screws, use a screwdriver to move the bar slightly in the desired direction and tighten the screws back. Checking. It should help.
For the winter, you need not only to insulate windows and walls, but also think about doors, be they entrance doors or even just balconies. The article contains instructions on how to identify problems without a wizard. plastic construction and make the necessary adjustments yourself.
As soon as specialists install a plastic door, they immediately adjust it. To make sure that the craftsmen did their job conscientiously, pay attention to the following points:
Attention! Make sure that during this check there is no draft in the room, which will cause even a well-functioning door to close on its own.
Over time, the structure wears out, and then additional corrections need to be made. Most often it is required in the following cases:
Advice. If the door requires additional adjustment, contact the company that installed the door. Do the work yourself only if the warranty period for the plastic structure has expired.
The following signs indicate that adjustment is needed:
Attention! If this defect is not eliminated, then in winter there will be drafts throughout the apartment.
The following experiment will help determine the need for regulation:
Advice. To independently adjust the mechanism of a plastic door, stock up on several types of screwdrivers, keys of different diameters with 6 edges, pliers and a set of gaskets.
Advice. Adjust the pressure twice a year, doing it in summer and winter. When it gets cold outside, make the fit tighter, and when warm time loosen it up. It is not recommended to leave the “winter” setting for the summer, since both the seal and the mechanism door block wear out much faster.
To eliminate this defect, you can not remove the door leaf from the hinges:
If the door hits the frame in the middle, do the following:
Sometimes it becomes necessary to adjust the position of the door, for example, move it a little to the right or left. For this:
Attention! By turning the screws clockwise, you will move the door towards the hinges, by turning it counterclockwise, you will slightly move the door in the opposite direction. In this way, it is possible to correct the movement of the structure within 2 mm.
If the door needs to be lowered or raised slightly, make vertical debugging of the mechanism.
Advice. To avoid having to adjust the door so often, install an opening limiter and a microlift on it, which supports the door when it is closed and prevents sagging.
One of the nuances of caring for plastic doors is their adjustment. In our article, we will get acquainted with the need to carry out such procedures for balcony and entrance doors, find out how horizontal and vertical adjustments are carried out, changing the pressing force of the door leaf, Special attention Let's replace the gaskets.
Modern entrance groups made of plastic, as well as balcony doors made of similar material, differ from similar products durable coating and high-quality fit of individual parts. Thanks to these properties, the described structures can serve their owner for decades without the need for maintenance. repair work.
In some cases, the user may have a problem with adjusting the balcony door. This is especially scary for the home owner when the product is out of warranty. Despite the fact that many call a specialist, you can adjust the plastic door yourself.
Before carrying out the main work, you need to find a fault in the design of the frame or canvas and eliminate it by tightening special threaded connections. In the majority of cases new door the balcony does not require additional regulation. This is due to the fact that the products received from warehouses are made of wear-resistant materials, their main parts are fitted very carefully.
Despite this, situations arise when a plastic entrance or balcony door needs immediate adjustment. If this is not done on time, then the owner of the house will have to completely replace the entire structure, and these are additional unforeseen expenses. According to experts, the regulatory process should be performed once a year at most.
With more frequent repair work, the product can quickly become unusable. This is due to wear of the seals, microlifts, as well as adjusting screws or plastic frame.
Need for regulation balcony doors occurs in the following situations:
The need to adjust the entrance groups arises when sealing is lost. If there is a draft in the room, then gaps have appeared between the frame and the door leaf that need to be eliminated urgently. In some cases, to determine a breakdown, it is enough to run a pencil along the frame, after which you can see the discrepancies in the parallelism of the lines. The presence of distortions or free gaps can be determined in another way. You need to put a sheet of paper between the canvas and the frame and slam the door. Now try to pull out the leaf. If this element comes out problematically (with some effort), then there are no problems with the doors; if it is loose, then the apartment owner must adjust the door pressure himself.
Adjusting plastic doors is not a complicated process, but it does require attention to detail. Before you begin the main work, you need to prepare the following tool:
To adjust the door leaf in the horizontal plane, special screws are usually used, which rotate in the required direction using a hexagon. These elements are usually located under the holes above the top and bottom hinges.
For settings correct position product, you need to open the canvas slightly and get to the screws. By turning the fasteners in the desired direction (clockwise or counterclockwise), the correct position of the door is achieved.
If the screws are rotated clockwise, the surface of the product will slowly move towards the canopy, in the second case - away from it. Using a similar method, you can eliminate a gap or displacement of elements up to 2 millimeters. The different intensity of regulation of the upper and lower canopy allows you to adjust the required vertical deflection of the canvas. In some door models, the canopies are disguised. To get to them, press the tab on the end of the product and set the handle to the ventilation function. Once corrected, the door should close and open correctly.
The need for vertical adjustment arises when the sash rests on the threshold or when there are dents on the upper or lower seal. A special screw is used to adjust the hinges. Rotation of this element in the required direction leads to the raising or lowering of the door, which will allow for a normal gap.
Before starting the main work, remove the plug from the screw for adjustment. Typically, such an element is located on the lower hinge, its working part is located along the axis. The screw rotates using a hexagon. To lift the blade up, you need to rotate the screw clockwise; to move down, the adjuster is rotated in the opposite direction.
The front door's clamping force should be adjusted only after such a problem has been identified. This can be checked using a flat piece of paper from a notebook; it is applied to the frame and the door is closed. If the leaf is pulled freely from the slot or with little effort, then it is necessary to adjust the loops. To localize the existing problem, the specified work is carried out along the entire perimeter of the frame.
When pressing the sash against the frame, it is also necessary to determine and evaluate possible distortions of the closing structural elements. To do this, close the door and carefully trace its contours with a mechanical pencil. After opening the canvas, evaluate the size of the contour gap relative to the frame.
In most cases, the pressure of the door leaf is adjusted using a pin located at the end of the door. This element must be rotated with extreme caution, since a small movement causes a significant clamping force, which can lead to destruction of the seal structure. In the case when the trunnion is installed perpendicular to the profile, the clamping force will be set to maximum, when installed in parallel - to minimum. If the adjustment part has reached its maximum position and it is not possible to provide the required clearance, the apartment owner should seek help from specialists.
Some sources have information on how to adjust the clamp in another way. The fact is that in some models of plastic doors there are two or three eccentric screws at the end of the door leaf, the rotation of which leads to a change in the clamping force. Each of these products has a special mark to determine the clamping density. To weaken the clamping force, turn the screw towards the frame; to strengthen it, turn it towards the room.
Difficulties mainly arise when there are three eccentrics (in the upper, lower and central parts of the structure). In this case, you need to act experimentally, deflecting the eccentrics to the same angle. After each of these adjustments, the result obtained is checked. High-quality clamping can only be ensured near the handle fastening, so in other places (upper and lower parts of the door) adjustment of the hinges may be necessary.
Seals installed on door designs made of PVC, protect the apartment from noise coming from the street and drafts. Over time (especially in the absence of a closer), these products may become flattened or cracked, and in these cases their replacement is necessary. Let us immediately note that the rubber bands can be changed independently without using a special tool.
On initial stage work must be sent to hardware store and buy insulation. It is designed in the form rubber band a certain form. In this case, it is necessary to purchase a product specifically for doors (there are seals for sashes and frames of plastic windows).
First you need to remove the old seal; you simply touch it with a sharp object and pull it out of the groove. Now clean the recess from dust and dirt, insert one end of the elastic band and completely recess it into the groove. We go around the entire perimeter in a similar way until the material is completely laid. Next, we trim the rubber and check the tightness of opening and closing the door.