Each flower requires its own soil and temperature conditions, which must be taken into account when planting or replanting crops. Landing indoor plants carried out correctly will help not only provide flowers optimal conditions for growth, but also protects them from diseases.
From today's article you will learn how to properly plant indoor flowers in a pot. In addition, we will talk about the features of planting and caring for some popular types of indoor plants.
Every novice gardener is interested in how to plant indoor flowers correctly. And this is not surprising, because the intensity of growth and flowering depends on this process.
Despite the fact that planting flowers for the home is considered simple, some features and rules still need to be taken into account.
When planning to plant a flower, first of all you need to decide on the shape and size of the pot. To do this, the size of the crop and the degree of development of its root system are taken into account: the longer and wider it is, the more spacious the pot should be.
You also need to consider where you are going to place the flower. For open terrace or a balcony, flowerpots are suitable, but for an ordinary city apartment, traditional pots or containers are most often chosen.
Note: Regardless of the type of pot you plan to plant, there should be drainage holes in the bottom of the pot to drain excess moisture. Place a tray under the pot into which it will drain. excess water. Without this condition, water will begin to accumulate near the roots of the flower, and the crop may die.
Planting technology includes selection suitable soil(picture 1). Each type of flower requires its own special soil, which will reflect natural soil conditions. The easiest way is to buy a ready-made soil mixture in a special store, but it is much more fun to prepare it yourself.
Classic soil for indoor crops consists of clay-turf soil with the addition of a small amount of compost, peat and high-quality sand. It is also advisable to add a large number of charcoal, which will play a role organic fertilizer. To simplify the task of planting flowers for the home, here is step by step instructions this process.
Picture 1. Correct fit flowers in containers Sowing or planting indoor plants is carried out as follows:
It is important that both the soil itself and root system must be wet. This will help the earthen coma to attach more tightly to the roots, and will make the acclimatization process in a new place faster.
Figure 2. Types of drainage for indoor plants If you are planting seeds rather than seedlings, the technology will be similar. First, a layer of drainage is placed in the pot, then soil is poured in (about 2/3 of the container’s volume), seeds are scattered and sprinkled with a small layer of nutritious grain mixture. The seeds must be watered, covered with glass and placed in a well-lit place.
From the video you will learn which drainage is best to use for indoor flowers.
Proper planting of flowers in pots is much easier than planting crops in open ground. But, despite all the simplicity, there are certain planting rules.
To make your flowers comfortable, you need not only to choose a suitable container, but also to prepare high-quality soil for the flowers. If you already have a pot, check that there are drainage holes in the bottom through which excess moisture will drain from the soil. If there are no such holes, you will have to make them yourself.
The further stages of planting in pots will be as follows(Figure 3):
Figure 3. Stages of planting indoor plants in pots This is where planting or replanting an indoor flower ends. For successful cultivation Periodic watering will be required (frequency depends on the variety), fertilizing, as well as ensuring optimal temperature and humidity conditions. Some species tolerate the moderate humidity of an ordinary city apartment well, while others require additional moisture, which can be provided by regular spraying of the leaves.
The technology for planting indoor plants in pots is shown in the video.
It is important not only to know how to plant indoor plants correctly, but also what containers should be used for this. Modern manufacturers They offer a wide selection of pots in a wide variety of shapes, sizes and styles, so you can easily choose the right container (Figure 4).
Figure 4. Types of flower pots Experienced flower growers recommend being guided not so much by taste preferences, but practical side. Firstly, the pot must be spacious enough for a particular variety so that the root system of the flower can be freely placed inside. Secondly, there should be drainage holes in the bottom of the container through which excess moisture will drain from the soil. In addition, the potty should be durable and comfortable.
Since on modern market presented a wide variety pots from various materials, we present the features of clay, plastic and other containers for indoor flowers.
From an environmental point of view, clay pots are considered the best. They do not emit toxic substances, therefore they are absolutely safe for human and plant health. However, such containers are easily broken and may crack after prolonged use. In addition, they are heavy, so it will be difficult to move pots freely, especially large ones.
Plastic pots are very light, beautiful and elegant. They are easy to wash and rearrange if necessary. But when buying such a pot, be sure to take into account that the plastic that was used to make it releases into the soil and air harmful substances, which can harm not only plants, but also people.
In previous sections, we have already looked at the rules for planting crops in pots. Therefore, let us dwell in more detail on caring for flowers for the home (Figure 5). In this matter, you should be guided by the characteristics of each variety. For example, exotic tropical flowers intensive watering and moistening are required, and cacti, on the contrary, do not tolerate excess moisture well.
Figure 5. Basic stages of caring for indoor crops In addition, home flowerpots require periodic feeding, which is applied by watering at the root or spraying the leaves. In winter, it is necessary to provide additional lighting to the flowers, and during cultivation it is necessary to periodically inspect for the presence of pests or symptoms of diseases in order, if necessary, to carry out preventive spraying.
Gloxinia is one of the most beautiful and unusual indoor flowers. IN natural conditions this crop is found in Brazil, but if you plant gloxinia tubers correctly and provide them with proper care, you can grow it at home (Figure 6).
In general, the indoor gloxinia flower is easy to plant and care for, but some features of growing this exotic crop still need to be taken into account.
The basic rules for caring for gloxinia are:
Figure 6. Features of caring for gloxinia When gloxinia has faded, you don’t have to dig up the bulb, but leave it in moist soil. But to maintain viability, the pot with the bulb must be moved to a dark, cool room and stored at a temperature no higher than +10 degrees until next spring.
Impatiens can be called a universal plant, because it blooms successfully both in a city apartment and in open ground(Figure 7).
Let us dwell in more detail on the conditions for planting and caring for indoor balsam:
Figure 7. External features indoor balsam If you want to save money and plan to plant balsam directly in a large pot, you should immediately clarify that this is not recommended. In such conditions, all the forces of the plant will be directed to growth and formation. big bush, and the flowering period will be delayed. Therefore, it is better to choose a compact container suitable in size to the volume of the root system.
Indoor hydrangea is a compact perennial shrub that is covered with numerous ball-shaped inflorescences (Figure 8). If hydrangeas were created suitable conditions growing, it will bloom profusely and for a long time every year.
Planting and caring for indoor hydrangeas includes the following important points:
Figure 8. Growing indoor hydrangea In addition, hydrangea requires fairly abundant and frequent watering. In summer it is carried out more often, in autumn it is gradually reduced, and in winter it will be enough to add moisture only once a week. Hydrangea also needs to be sprayed frequently to increase air humidity. Ordinary jars of water placed next to the flower pot will also help to cope with this task.
Not all indoor plants, even those that look very beautiful, are completely safe. Some of them, especially exotic ones, secrete poisonous juice, which can be dangerous to people and animals.
Note: Buying new flower for the home, be sure to ask if it is poisonous. And, if you have small children or animals at home, it is better to avoid such a purchase.
Since many poisonous varieties are surprisingly beautiful and highly decorative, many still prefer to place them at home. But when caring for such flowers, you must wear gloves, wash your hands thoroughly after all manipulations, and avoid getting the juice on your skin and mucous membranes.
So that you don't accidentally buy poisonous flower, we present a list of plants that should not be kept at home(Figure 9):
Figure 9. Dangerous plants for the home: 1 - dieffenbachia, 2 - bashful mimosa, 3 - monstera, 4 - nightshade, 5 - Sims azalea Among the dangerous poisonous plants there is also primrose. If there are a large number of these plants at home, during the flowering period, people and animals may suffer due to toxic substances that are released into the atmosphere during the flowering period. Therefore, if you cannot resist the beauty of primroses, it is better to keep just one flower of this species at home.
All aquarium plants conditionally divided into three groups: rooted, bushy and those that float. Plants that receive nutrition through the root system need special methods disembarkation Such greens have developed roots and are most often found already rooted. Bush plants are sold without roots and need to be planted independently. A separate category is floating. Their distinctive feature– lack of a root system, so they do not need soil at all.
The main rule for introducing flora into an aquarium is compliance with optimal distance between instances. If you plant plants too densely, then sunlight will not fall on lower leaves, and they will disappear. Creeping plants can uncontrollably occupy the entire space, so it is recommended to plant them only in large aquariums and periodically remove some of them. To ensure that plants feel good and do not take up all the space, place them so that the leaves barely touch the neighboring ones.
All the variety of aquarium greens can be classified according to planting method and growth. Plants whose branches and stems emerge are planted by cuttings. These include:
Cuttings can be purchased at aqua stores. They are planted to a depth of 3 to 5 centimeters. It is necessary to know exactly the variety of cuttings being planted. The distance between the holes will depend on this; it should be approximately equal to the length of one leaf. If there are a lot of leaves on the cuttings, then 2-3 lower shoots should be removed. You should not feel sorry for them, since the herbs sinking into the soil quickly begin the process of rotting.
Experienced aquarists claim that plants forming a bush are not aesthetically pleasing individually; it is better to plant several cuttings next to each other to form a powerful and branched bush.
Small-leaved plants should also be planted in a bunch, deepening them by 3-6 centimeters. This depth is ideal for fixing the plant and preventing it from floating. If, nevertheless, the planting manages to rise to the surface, then carefully fix it with small pebbles. After the cutting takes root, the support can be removed. Most often, a similar problem occurs in Cabombs, Cirrus and Limnophils, since they have an increased lift. It is better to form a ring on the bottom of these plants and press them with a flat pebble. To form the crown of a bush correct form It's best to cut off the tops.
Rosette species are those rocks that grow “like a broom” from the ground. These plants are different large sizes and a developed root system. These include:
It is important to choose the right plant size based on the dimensions of the aquarium. If you purchased medium-sized greens, then leave 8-11 centimeters between them, for larger ones - 15-25 centimeters. There are species where from 20 to 40 leaves are located on one plant; this should be taken into account and planted only in large aquariums.
For planting, shortened plants are most often used. They are buried in such a way that the neck remains on the surface, lightly sprinkled with soil. These plants look beautiful alone, and besides, this position allows them to grow unhindered. Take into account the fact that in the future, the plant will close lighting fixture or daylight, so it is preferable to place it in the background. In addition, if it is placed in the foreground, the aesthetic component of the reservoir will suffer.
The easiest plants to plant and propagate are those that are planted in shoots. In order to grow beautiful plant It is better to plant 3-4 shoots every centimeter, since creeping branches alone look sparse. The same should be done with plants that will not increase in size.
Flora with horizontally developing roots (for example, calamus) are planted at a slight slope, so that the newly formed shoots peek out from the ground. If you are thinking about what to plant against the front wall, then give preference to E.paniculaatus or E.tenellus. As they develop, they spread out like a green carpet. The peculiarity of these plants is the good regeneration of damaged parts, so the number will have to be periodically controlled.
This type of plant is not easy to plant. First you need to determine the location where the root system can fully develop. After this, place the seedling so that the lower part of the rhizome is deepened into the ground, and the upper part rises. Inspect carefully planting material, you will see the place where the green pigment begins - this is the level to which the seedling needs to be deepened. Since there is only a small part in the ground, at first place pebbles that will stop the plant from floating.
Plant care involves the timely removal of old, rough, bitten, yellowed or withered leaves.
Before planting bulbous and tuberous plants, you need to wrap them in filter wool, leaving space on the top and bottom. After this, the tubers must be deepened into the soil by about 2/3. The place where leaves or stems will appear in the future must be left on the surface. If you purchased Nymphaea, then only the roots are placed in the soil, everything else remains on the surface. Peculiarity bulbous plants consists of a long root system. The rhizome can reach a length of 10 centimeters, so the place where the plant will be buried must be chosen of the appropriate size and soil depth.
Care is very important for these plants. It is for this reason that many aquarists try not to mess with bulbs. They consume more nutrients from soil, which becomes scarce over time and needs additional feeding.
It is not uncommon to hear about the “rest” of bulbous plants. If for some reason you want to remove the onion for a while, then it is not difficult to do. It is enough to remove it from the aquarium and cut off all the leaves. After this, it is placed in a plastic bag filled with wet sand and left in a dark and cool place. So, the bulbs can rest for up to 6 months.
Another reason for the death of the plant may be high acidity of the water. Check the metrics. If it has already begun to rot, then cut the greens right down to the bulb. This way you will protect it from continuing to rot and get a more lush bush.
For epiphic and floating plants, soil is not needed at all. The first ones are perfectly placed on driftwood, glass, and stones. These include all mosses. IN natural environment They prefer fast currents, so clinging to something is very important for them.
Plants floating on the surface also live well without soil. They help the aquarist create the correct diffused lighting and reduce the luminous flux. It is necessary to regulate their numbers, because they can easily fill the entire space. It is advisable not to allow growth to exceed a third of the reservoir. For convenience, limit the space using mesh, fishing line or plastic tapes. This way you can easily shade one part of the aquarium and leave plenty of light on the other.
Once you have chosen the plants and location, the next step is planting. Most often, container-grown plants that have a well-developed root system are planted. Such plants can be planted from April to October (as long as the soil is not frozen). Plants with bare roots, as well as with a lump of earth wrapped in burlap, are planted only in early spring or autumn.
Before preparing the soil for planting, it is necessary to rid the nearby soil of weeds.
The landing pit must be of the appropriate size (photo 1).
Usually the hole is made twice as large as the plant ball.
The top layer of soil is always more fertile than the layer underneath, devoid of almost all microelements, such as sand or clay.
Depending on the requirements, it is necessary to prepare the land for planting.
If the soil is poor and permeable, the mixture added should be rich in humus and tightly knit to retain water and nutrients. If, on the contrary, the soil is heavy and retains moisture, it must be lightened by adding sand and peat. In the case of very heavy impermeable clay soil, bottom landing pit should be loosened well and mixed with sand or gravel. This operation will allow at least partial removal of water from the planting pit. It is also good to loosen the walls of the planting hole (photo 2, 3).
We carefully remove the plant from the container so as not to damage the lump and the roots themselves (photo 4).
Successful planting and further rooting of the plant largely depend on the quality of the coma.
The roots are usually very delicate and easily break and tear. Do not forcefully pull the plant out of the container by the ground part. Large containers can be cut, small ones can be turned over and lightly knocked, then the plant is easier to get out. If the plant in the container is overdried, before planting it is necessary to immerse the lump in water for several minutes so that it is well saturated with moisture, since an overdried lump after planting does not absorb well even abundant watering. If the roots are twisted and form a thick tangle at the end of the coma, some must be cut off with pruning shears, and the remaining ones must be carefully straightened. This will make it easier for the roots to penetrate the soil.
In order not to damage the lump when planting plants with a lump in a “ballot” (wrapped in burlap or mesh) (photo 5), it is necessary to transfer the plant without removing the mesh. The mesh is removed immediately before planting. If the lump is dry, it should also be immersed in water for a few minutes before planting.
Before planting, the roots of the plants must be immersed in water for several hours (photo 6)
Typically, branches of such plants are cut to 15-20 cm (photo 7). This procedure reduces the mass of the above-ground part, which allows the plant to properly distribute water in the first period after planting.
If the soil is poor, you need to pour a handful of fertilizers into the bottom of the planting hole. Best to use complex fertilizer slow action. The fertilizer should be spread evenly and lightly mixed with the added soil (photo 8). If the soil is fertile or a planting mixture is used, it is not recommended to apply fertilizers during planting, since an excess of them leads to poorer survival of the plant.
We place the plant in the hole so that when it is covered with soil, it ends up at the same depth at which it grew (photo 9, 10)
If the planted plant was from a container or with a lump, then we compact the soil around the plant with our feet, stronger with outside from the root ball (photo 11). When planting large trees, the soil should be compacted in layers. When planting a plant with an open root system, it is very important to carefully backfill so that the roots are directed downward and spread out to the sides, without twisting or bending (photo 12). As the hole is filled with soil, it must be compacted tightly to avoid the plant tilting to the side. Also good seal soil is accompanied by close contact of the soil with small roots, facilitates subsoil irrigation and protects the plant from settling after planting.
Should be watered big amount water so that the soil settles and sticks to small roots. Around the planted plant you need to form a trunk circle with an earthen “bowl” (photo 13). At first, this will help retain water near the plant.
After landing, even in rainy weather plants need watering. For better survival, immediately after planting, it is good to water the plant with a solution of a root formation stimulator (“Kornevin”, “Geterauksin”, etc.). It is also good to immerse the roots of the plant in such a solution for several minutes before planting.
Plants respond very well to mulching (photo 14,15). Most often mulched with a layer of bark coniferous trees, sawdust, gravel. This operation limits the growth of weeds and also reduces the evaporation of water from the soil. If plants are planted on the lawn, then mulching will protect them from damage during mowing. The function of mulch around tall bushes and trees can be performed by ground cover plants (tenacious, periwinkle, euonymus, etc.)
Many trees and shrubs come from warmer climates than ours. Therefore, when choosing plants, it is necessary to carefully select the place for planting, and also avoid those for which our climate is too cold. Plants with evergreen leaves or needles (arborvitae, junipers, some types of spruce (for example, Canadian spruce “Konika”) most often do not freeze during frosts, but dry out. The reason is the lack of available water. In winter, especially in February, March, when the sun is most active, the needles of the plant strongly evaporate moisture, and the plant cannot replenish its reserves, since the surface layer, along with the water it contains, is frozen.
This is why abundant watering is so important. evergreens and mulching trunk circle late autumn.
1. Covering with spruce branches
This method is good for short people who need special reliable protection from frost of plants (roses, hydrangeas, azaleas) Cut woody shoots of floribunda and hybrid tea roses to a height of up to 50 cm, cut out soft shoots. The root zone is mulched with peat to a height of 30 cm, and the branches are covered with spruce branches stuck into the ground. Even if the winter turns out to be snowless, the spruce needles will retain the crumbs of snow, and a mini-greenhouse will form around the sissy plant. This design completely protects the roots of the plant from freezing in frosts down to - 30 C.
2. Simple protection spruce branches
Used to protect perennials. To be on the safe side, the cut stems of the plant are first covered with dry leaves or mulched with peat, and only after that the spruce branches are placed.
3. Using wire mesh
This convenient design is sold in gardening stores. The frame is installed on the ground, the free space is filled with dry leaves.
4. A hut made of mesh, burlap, spunbond or straw
Used for plants with brittle branches and conifers. A frame is built from thin slats or sticks, and the top is tied together. The structure is wrapped with spunbond, the edges are pressed to the ground with stones or pegs. You can do without a frame by wrapping the plant itself with protective material and tying it with rope.
Live plants provide a natural, healthy aquatic environment for any aquarium and provide protection and shelter for many small species of fish and fry. Each plant has its own conditions for successful growth, some are very capricious and require special care, others are unpretentious and adapt to various water parameters. The latter are optimal choice beginner aquarist.
Step #1. Choose plants that require the same conditions as your fish. Lighting is usually set at a ratio of 2 watts per 4–5 liters of water. So for a volume of 100 liters you will need light bulbs with a total power of 20-25 watts. These are approximate average figures!!!
Step #2. Beginners are recommended to purchase unpretentious plants, such as Hygrophila varifolia, Java moss, Anubias dwarf, Cryptocrine, Vallisneria.
Step #3. Use fine gravel or coarse sand as a substrate. Reliable rooting is possible with a soil thickness of 4–6 cm. If possible, mix new soil with part of the old one from a mature aquarium in a proportion of ¼ (for example, you can ask friends or acquaintances). This is relevant for a new aquarium and will provide initial feeding to the plants.
Step #4. Before placing the plant in water, carefully examine the leaves; there may be snail eggs on them. Uninvited guests will be out of place.
Step #5. Most rooted plants are sold in pots/containers. Carefully remove the plant and use a toothpick to untangle the roots.
Step #6. Use a pencil or wooden dowel to make a hole into which the root system will fit. Cover the roots. Floating plants can simply be placed in an aquarium.
Step #7. Plants require 3 to 4 weeks to acclimatize, during which time they will live off stored nutrients. Therefore, there is no point in adding fertilizers; they will not be absorbed and will only pollute the water. In the future, the fish themselves will fertilize the soil, no worse than expensive additives.
Step No. 8. Once the plants are placed they will become integral part biological system of the aquarium and will maintain ecological balance by absorbing fish waste products and releasing oxygen.
Eichornia excellent, water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes)
So, how to properly plant plants in an aquarium?
First of all, it is necessary to clean each plant of filamentous algae and snail eggs attached to it. Remove damaged areas. Then it needs to be disinfected for about 20 minutes in a pink (to red) solution of potassium permanganate. A bath (5 - 10 minutes) with alum solution (1 teaspoon / 1 liter of water) or washing with a hydrogen peroxide solution (1 teaspoon / 1 liter of water) is also recommended. After which the plants must be rinsed. To speed up growth, the roots can be trimmed slightly. Then you need to fill the aquarium with washed soil to a height of no more than 10 cm and fill it with water (5 - 10 cm).
Nymphea (aquarium water lily)
When planting, the roots should be placed in the direction of their natural growth. Thus, in Cryptocorynes and Vallisneria, the roots grow vertically downwards, while in Aponogetons and Echinodorus, the roots go down only a few centimeters and spread, as a rule, horizontally.
In order to place the roots vertically down in the soil, you need to make a hole a little deeper and place the plant in it so that it drops just below the neck of the root, but the root is straightened. Then, lightly pressing the soil, very carefully pull the plant up so that the neck of the root appears. Thus, even the thinnest root branches will be located directly in the soil.
A typical mistake made by many aquarists when planting plants in an aquarium: the roots should not bend (a), but should be completely, with all their shoots, located directly in the ground (b). The easiest way to do this is to make a deeper hole, plant a plant there, and then slightly pull it up.
When planting plants that have horizontally growing roots, you need to make an oblong and not too deep hole, place the roots in it in a “fan” and then sprinkle them with soil.
Creeping plants must be planted in groups of 4-6 pieces, like bushes, otherwise they have an unpresentable appearance. But at the same time, the distance between each of them should be about 1-2 cm (this is especially important for cabombas).
Kabomba
Plants that do not increase in size as they grow are also usually planted in groups.
Plants with horizontally branching rhizomes, such as calamus, must be planted on a slope so that the areas where shoots protrude from the ground.
Aquatic plants, floating in the water column and receiving nutrition directly from the water through special organs on their leaves, are planted in the ground by cuttings, without roots. Before planting, it is necessary to remove the leaves from the two lower nodes of the stem. Flat rocks will help keep the plants from floating until they take root.
Krinum Thai
Plants that receive nutrition from the soil exclusively with the help of roots, as well as plants that, although they have difficulty “working” with their roots, still need nutrients (for example: Aponogeton, Echinodorus, Cryptocoryne), must be placed in the soil in bowls or pots . These bowls can be filled with an earthen mixture consisting of two-thirds clay and aquarium peat. Currently, specially prepared mixtures for aquariums are available for sale. It is strictly not recommended to use earthen mixtures for flowers in an aquarium. In order not to spoil the design of the aquarium with the appearance of tall bowls and pots protruding from the ground, they are usually decorated with stones.
In addition, keeping plants in pots has the advantage that when cleaning the bottom soil, the vessels can simply be removed from the aquarium and then put back without damaging the roots.
Cryptocoryne Beckett
Planting Density plants in the aquarium is individual for different plants and depends on the size of each specimen individually and on its expected growth. For example, plants such as Cryptocoryne Griffith (C. griffithi), Cryptocoryne ciliata (C. ciliata) or Cryptocoryne Beckett (C. beckettii) grow large and the distance between them, accordingly, should be at least 15 cm. And in aponogeton and Echinodorus, the distance between small specimens should be from 8 to 10 cm, and between larger plants from 15 to 30 cm. Some plant species grow many leaves over time (for example, some species of Aponogeton have 20-40 leaves), and they need more free space on all (!) sides.
Cryptocoryne ciliata or Cryptocoryne ciliata
The most the right time for planting - spring. Young specimens are usually supplied from greenhouses, where the plants are accustomed to the correct change of seasons. At this time, their dormant period ends (November - January) and they begin to sprout new shoots.
Griffith's Cryptocoryne
Plants in the aquarium multiply, as a rule, in a vegetative way: cuttings, shoots, suckers, as well as plant division. The shoots should be separated from the mother plant only when they have formed a sufficient number of roots. Cuttings can be obtained by separating branches or shortening the main stem. Some types of plants form roots without planting in the ground. They can be fixed to the ground and wait until they take root. It is also recommended to divide plants in the spring. Most aquarists use these simple vegetative methods propagation, since they are applicable to almost all aquatic plants and do not present any particular difficulties.
There are two types of plant propagation: seed and vegetative. Vegetative propagation can happen in different ways, as can be seen in the figure:
a) in plants with an erect stem, to get a cutting, you can simply cut off the part between two nodes;
b) the plant has shoots with daughter plants. After some time, you can cut the “umbilical cord” that connects them to the mother plant, and get a completely independent specimen;
c) on the leaf blade of some floating plants, in the picture of the winged fern or water cabbage (Ceratopteris pteridoides), especially along their edges, daughter plants are formed. After some time, they will separate from the mother plant and begin an independent life on the surface of the water.
Aquarists often hesitate to plant beautiful and large plants. As a rule, this is due to the experience of past failures. But when installing a new aquarium, how can you not try to plant plants while the aquarium is without fish. At the same time, it is at the beginning, in the first weeks after planting in the aquarium, that the plants are especially poorly tolerated and do not grow. Usually they either lack nutrients or the water parameters are not suitable (it is possible that they are not suitable yet). You need to check and try everything. Only if the plants do not develop under normal water parameters, the required level of lighting, and a sufficient amount of CO2, can we assume that they are sick.
Amazonian Echinodorus
Majority aquatic plants receive nutrition through the leaves, but not all. Therefore, it should be borne in mind that not every plant has roots only in order to gain a foothold in the ground. For example, plants with a well-developed root system (Amazon echinodorus (Echinodorus amazonicus), Thai crinum (Crinum thaianum), different types aponogeton and water lilies (Nymphaea) will grow better if soil amendments are added to the soil. Such additives are sold in specialized stores. Earthen mixtures for flowers should not be used, as they are oversaturated with fertilizers. An excess of fertilizers for plants in an aquarium is just as harmful as a lack of them. If a large number of fish live in the aquarium, then the content of the final decomposition products formed as a result of the nitrogen cycle - nitrates - becomes so high that the plants can no longer absorb them completely. That is why it is necessary to systematically change the water, since this reduces the level of fertilizers dissolved in the water. Before changing the water in the aquarium, it is necessary to stop feeding the plants with fertilizers for a while.
Water lily (Nymphaea)
A pond in the highlands of Sri Lanka. On the surface of the water you can recognize dense thickets of Limnophila indica, and in the foreground Alocasia macrorrhiza.
When keeping so-called “tuberous plants,” you should pay attention to one feature: unlike other green inhabitants of the aquarium, they need a period of rest. The natural living conditions of these plants are not as constant as we commonly believe. Dryness and floods replace each other, hot days are followed by cool nights. During the rainy season, water parameters change greatly. Therefore, such plants do not tolerate the constant heat of water in an aquarium. From time to time they require rest. The plants themselves report this; when such a period occurs, their greenery wilts. In order for the life activity of such plants (different types of aponogeton) to correspond to natural cycles, they must be planted in pots from the very beginning. During their stay in the aquarium, these pots with plants are placed in the bottom soil, and when the dormant period begins, they are removed. At this time, the pots with the culture are placed in a flat bowl so that the tubers are covered with water only a few centimeters. The water temperature is reduced to approximately 15 °C. The stems of the plant die off during this period. In this state, outside the aquarium, the tubers should remain for 2 to 4 months. Then the pot with the culture must be placed again in the aquarium soil.
Aponogeton rigidifolius
It was a long article. In the next one I will tell you how to feed plants in an aquarium. Yes, yes, just feed! No one is surprised by the need to feed the fish. And plants also need nutrition, which they cannot always fully receive in a regular aquarium. Therefore, those aquarists for whom plant growth is especially important must do something more than just plant a plant in the aquarium and wait for it to grow. wonderful decoration their underwater garden.
