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» How to seal windows for the winter with a film. Do-it-yourself warming of window frames for the winter. Insulation of internal slopes of plastic windows

How to seal windows for the winter with a film. Do-it-yourself warming of window frames for the winter. Insulation of internal slopes of plastic windows

Greetings. In this article I will talk about how and what to insulate wooden windows for the winter. There are many ways to make old windows more airtight, but, as practice shows, not all of them are equally good. Consider those methods that you can apply on your own and decide which one is the best.

Ways to do it yourself

Among the methods suitable for thermal insulation of windows, I note the following:

  • Gap filling mounting foam;
  • Sealing technological gaps with window paper or adhesive tape;
  • Pasting of glazing with thermal film;
  • Installation of a sealant on an adhesive basis along the line of the porch;
  • Sealing glass in the frame using sealant;
  • Installation of the seal along the line of the porch into a milled groove.

The listed methods of insulation provide the greatest efficiency if they are used not separately, but in a complex.

Method one - use mounting foam

This method is suitable for you if the windows are old, and with the onset of warm weather, they are supposed to be replaced with new double-glazed windows. The fact is that having processed the technological gaps with mounting foam, it will then be impossible to open the sashes.

Warming instructions are as follows:

  • We open the inner and outer sashes, and clean the perimeter of the porch from dirt - the area where the sash adjoins the frame;

  • Lightly moisten the perimeter of the porch with water from a spray bottle;
  • Carefully apply foam from the balloon around the perimeter of the porch, while trying not to get on the glass and on the windowsill;

  • We close the sashes by turning the handles all the way and inserting the latches;
  • We perform a similar procedure with the porch window;

  • After the first row of glazing is strengthened, we wait for the foam to dry and cut off its excess;
  • If necessary, we carry out insulation on the second - the inner row of glazing.

Even one row of glazing after processing with mounting foam will not only be insulated, but also isolated from noise. After the second row of glazing is insulated, the window will not see through at all and let in sounds from the outside, since there will be no gaps at all.

Please note that a window insulated with mounting foam will not be suitable for ventilation. Therefore, you will need to take care of others no less effective ways ventilation.

Method two - seal with tape or paper

This method of insulation is the simplest and probably the most budgetary. To seal windows, you will need a regular (not masking) wide adhesive tape or special paper tapes for pasting windows. If you decide not to spend money at all, you can use old newspapers cut into strips as a material for sealing gaps.

Why do I recommend using ordinary tape instead of masking tape on old windows? Ordinary plastic tape is completely sealed, unlike the paper counterpart. In addition, ordinary adhesive tape is much better glued to various surfaces and is better retained on them.

The gluing instruction involves cleaning the perimeter of the junction of frames and sashes from dirt and flaking. Then the adhesive tape is glued at the beginning of the gap, gradually unwound and glued along the entire gap. It remains to carefully iron the perimeter of the gluing with your own hands so that the adhesive tape adheres well to the surface, and the work can be considered finished.

If there are cracks in the old glazing, do not be too lazy to immediately seal them with wide adhesive tape from the outside and from the inside.

With newspaper strips or with special paper, everything is a little more complicated, since you have to pick up glue or prepare a paste. For these purposes, the remnants of wallpaper glue or a paste from diluted with water are suitable. a small amount flour. If newsprint is used, you can make a thick soapy solution and glue wetted strips onto the frame.

The method is good because its price is cheap, but there are a couple of significant drawbacks. With the onset of the warm season, when dismantling the strips, fragments may come off along with the insulation paintwork. Mold or fungus may appear on strips of paper glued with flour or starch paste.

Method three - gluing thermal film

The use of heat-saving film is not a new technology. IN country houses, many years ago, a translucent oilcloth was stuffed from the inside of the frames through a glazing bead.

As a result, a more or less isolated additional air chamber appeared in the design of the sash. The disadvantage of the solution was low visibility through a translucent oilcloth and a low degree of light transmission.

The modern version of mounting the film on the windows is preferable, because the polyethylene is absolutely transparent and even. And, most importantly, during installation, you can do without a glazing bead and not spoil the frame.

Installation instructions for a thermal protective film purchased in a special kit are as follows:

  • Remove the handles from the inside of the window sashes;
  • If necessary, we pass with fine sandpaper, removing protruding irregularities from the surface of the valves;
  • We clean the prepared surface from dirt and dust;
  • We glue double-sided tape along the perimeter of the wings, carefully pressing it so that it does not move away from the surface anywhere;

  • After the tape is glued, carefully remove the outer protective film from it;

  • We straighten the thermal protective film, apply it to the frame and glue it to the adhesive tape;

  • With a household hair dryer, we heat the glued film around the perimeter of the frame so that it aligns and better sticks to the adhesive tape;

  • With the same hair dryer, we heat the main surface of the film and disperse the remaining wrinkles;
  • We fasten the handles in place and along the edge of the glued adhesive tape, cut off the excess film.

Method four - the use of a rubber seal

In this instruction I will show how to glue the tubular insulation along the porch line. However, using a similar instruction, you can paste over the frame with solid rubber seals and foam rubber.

The installation instructions for the seal are as follows:

  • We open the sashes, in the porch of which we will carry out gluing wide open;

  • With a chisel or knife, we clean the remnants of old seals from the porch or simply level the surface so that there is a protrusion with a right angle along the perimeter of the frame;
  • Next, knead the usual plasticine into balls with a diameter of 2 cm;

  • We glue plasticine balls into the porch around the entire perimeter at a distance of 30 cm from each other;
  • We cover the sash until it stops, and then open it;

  • We remove the lumps of plasticine one by one and examine how deformed they are;

The recess on each of the plasticine lumps is the degree of pressing the sash to the frame. That is, the side of the recess is equal to the thickness of the seal to be selected. Therefore, we examine the removed lumps, determine smallest value and on it we select a sealing cord.

  • We transfer measurements from lumps of plasticine to paper for calculations, which cord and in what quantity to buy in order to ensure a tight porch of the sash;

  • From the end of the cord, we separate the protective tape and apply it to the frame from the corner;
  • Gradually removing the protective tape, apply and level the sealant;

  • We insert the edges of the tubular seal into each other so that they do not stick out and do not peel off.

Method five - sealing the glass in the frame with a sealant

Another problem with old windows is that the glazing bead around the perimeter of the sash does not press the glass tightly enough. As a result, when opening and closing, a bounce is heard. But it’s not so much the rattling that is terrible, but the fact that the gap between the glass and the glazing bead lets cold air in from the outside and contributes to the formation.

You can completely dismantle the old glazing bead and install a new one. If long-term window repair is not your plan, I recommend using a sanitary silicone sealant.

By pressing on the glass, we squeeze out the sealant so that it enters the gap from the tube spout. After walking along the perimeter of the glazing bead, stop pressing on the glass and gently wipe off the excess sealant that will squeeze out from under the glazing bead.

Method six - warming in Swedish

Insulation of windows Swedish technology- this is the same use of tubular insulation. But, unlike the previous instructions, the sealant is not glued to the wood, but inserted into a special milled groove and held there by spacers or seals on the edge.

Swedish window insulation technology is not limited to installing a cord. In addition, the sashes are adjusted to the frame so that there is no distortion and gaps, and if necessary, the old fittings are replaced with new ones.

Instructions for warming according to Swedish technology are as follows:

  • Along the perimeter of the narthex, a groove is cut with a milling cutter (depth 8 mm, width 3 mm);
  • Starting from the corner of the sash or from the beginning of the mounting plate, insert the cord into the groove with the mounting edge forward;

  • We roll the cord with a special roller, gradually inserting it along the entire length of the groove.

The advantage of the technology is that the cord is firmly held in the groove, which means that it will not move away from the sash longer, unlike the glued seal. There is also a drawback - for warming according to Swedish technology, you need a special tool.

Agree that it is unprofitable to purchase a milling cutter and a pressure roller for performing one-time work.

Conclusion

From the article, you learned how to insulate windows for the winter, and you can choose the method that is suitable for self-fulfillment. I also recommend watching the video in this article. If you have any questions about the proposed instructions, write about it in the comments.

The determining factor for replacing old wooden windows with new ones, metal-plastic or PVC, is their ability to retain heat in a house or apartment. Naturally, when installing double-glazed windows, few people were interested in how they would behave in the future. Will they let the cold through, is it possible to insulate plastic windows if necessary, and is it necessary to do this? If so, how to prepare windows for winter and what is the best way to provide thermal insulation of windows and openings.


A plastic or metal-plastic window, like any composite structure, has weaknesses. They are the potential "gates" for heat leakage from the room.

Blowing from a plastic window - find and eliminate

Where can blow from plastic windows

To understand why it is blowing from a PVC window, you need to examine the nodes, and for this you need to know the design principle of the window unit.

The most common places to inflate:

  • window glazing bead (glass unit holder);
  • rubber compressor;
  • window fittings(for example, blowing from under the loops, into the handle);
  • the perimeter of the window frame - the junction of slopes, window sills, walls.

How to determine where it is blowing from a plastic window?

The presence of a defect in one of the components of the window block leads to the fact that with plastic windows blowing. There are three ways to determine the exact place of heat loss of metal-plastic windows:

  • tactile hand. To identify the gap, it is enough to run your palm over the surface of the window block;
  • lighter. The search procedure is similar to the previous one, but the light is more sensitive to drafts and can detect even the weakest blowing.
  • paper. An ordinary sheet of paper is pressed against the window (inserted into open window and is clamped by the complete closing of the sash), if you pull the corner of the sheet and it is easily pulled out, then the seal is not pressed enough (this may indicate that, in this mode, the old seal is poorly pressed against the frame).

Why it blows from plastic windows - the causes of heat loss

  • installation error. This is the most common reason associated with ignorance or non-compliance right technology installation of a plastic window. 15 years ago, this service was so in demand that everyone who had at least some idea about installing window blocks went to installers. Naturally, PVC installation few people performed windows according to GOST;
  • skewed windows due to shrinkage of the house. An urgent problem for residents of new buildings and wooden houses;
  • an attempt to save money. One of the weighty arguments in the competitive struggle is always the price, especially during the economic crisis. Price reduction often occurred at the expense of quality: saving on foam, on insulation, ignoring the need to protect the heat insulator, using low-quality components when assembling windows - all this eventually led to the fact that the consumer is forced to change or additionally insulate PVC windows;
  • physical wear of window components, in particular sealing rubber bands, or weakening of the clamping force of the sashes;
  • violation of the rules for the operation of plastic windows, which consist in the need to wash the window seal and treat it with glycerin. Such care prevents the loss of elasticity of the seal and its cracking.

What to do if blowing from a plastic window

Of course, eliminate the source of the draft. From a practical point of view, there are two simple options- call the master to repair-adjust (expensive) windows or do it yourself (cheap).

The desire to close all the cracks on their own with improvised means is reduced to nothing, because: firstly, it is not aesthetically pleasing, and secondly, there are no guarantees.

When it is advisable to involve professionals:

  • plastic window installed recently. The installer company is responsible to the consumer for the reliability of the functioning of the windows (if the warranty covers this period);
  • the window opening is located at a considerable height (in a multi-storey building). It is better to entrust any high-altitude work to professionals (industrial mountaineering services). If the window is located on the second floor and above, the work will be associated with an increased risk;
  • if there is a manufacturing defect. For example, obvious manufacturing or installation defects that become apparent during the warranty period;
  • if parts need to be replaced. It is better to install "native" fittings if replacement is necessary individual elements window block;
  • work is carried out in winter period time. Knowledge of the installation technology, and how to insulate plastic windows for the winter, allows installers to complete the work quickly, without significant cooling of the living space.

However, often the cost of attracting specialists is equal to the cost of installing a new window, and this fact makes it more profitable to do the insulation work yourself.

What you can do yourself:

  • internal insulation of the window opening;
  • frame contour insulation;
  • window sill insulation;
  • replacement of seals.

How to insulate plastic windows with your own hands

When to insulate windows for the winter

Repair and insulation should be done before the onset of cold weather. This is due to requirements such as:

  • more comfortable working conditions;
  • material requirements. Some building materials, such as dry mixes and sealants, can only be used within a certain temperature range. Otherwise, they lose their characteristics;
  • optimal humidity;
  • lack of draft;
  • the ability to perform both internal and external insulation;
  • reducing the risk of catching a cold for tenants of the apartment.

How to insulate plastic windows at home

The choice of insulation depends on the place of blowing.

1. Insulation of window openings for the winter

To insulate the window opening, you can use different materials and methods:

  • assembly foam. Expanding, the foam fills all the voids around the perimeter of the window opening, preventing the movement of air. Due to the fact that foam is 90% air, it is an ideal insulation. However, the foam needs protection from UV, high and low temperatures. Hence, it is inappropriate to use it by itself;
  • mineral wool. Excellent heat-insulating material for warming window sills and internal slopes. Cotton wool has a more limited range of use for window insulation;
  • styrofoam / polystyrene foam. It is used for insulation of slopes of plastic windows;

Note. Rigid insulation is used when the thickness of the mounting seam is not more than 3 mm, in other cases it is better to give preference to mineral wool.

  • silicone sealant. A reliable way to eliminate blowing between plastic elements window;
  • dry mixes for finishing slopes, used if necessary to insulate the window from the outside;
  • construction tape. Glued on top of the sealant or instead of it;

Advice. It is not recommended to use ordinary masking or window tape; after sticking it on the plastic of the window frame, unattractive marks remain that are difficult to remove without damaging the front cover.

2. Insulation of the window unit

  • sealant;
  • construction tape;
  • sealant;
  • heat-saving film for windows (energy-saving);
  • mechanical methods insulation, for example, tightening (adjusting) fittings.

After the issue of how to insulate is resolved, we will deal with the question of how to insulate a double-glazed window, frame, plastic, aluminum profile etc.

How to insulate plastic windows from the outside

External insulation of windows is carried out in the following areas:

1. Insulation of slopes of plastic windows

The first step to improve the thermal insulation properties of the window. Whatever insulation measures are taken in the house, until the slopes from the street are insulated, the cold will still come inside. At the same time, external insulation allows you to shift the dew point, which will prevent the appearance of dampness and the development of fungus. Covering cracks is a temporary measure, because. over time, the plaster layer will begin to crack and expose the mounting foam, which will collapse under the influence of atmospheric phenomena. But as a protection for insulation, plaster is an excellent solution.

How to insulate the slopes of plastic windows from the street

Work order:

  • material preparation (hard insulation);
  • cleaning slopes from dirt and protruding parts;
  • surface primer;
  • installation of insulation on an adhesive solution or a special adhesive foam. It is preferable to use foam, because it eliminates wet work, has a minimum setting time, and holds the insulation sheet more securely;
  • sealing all cracks with glue;
  • installation of perforated corners;
  • installation of a polymer mesh;
  • plaster finish.

Advice. When installing the insulation, you need to make sure that it overlaps part of the window frame and completely closes the mounting seam.

2. Insulation of low tides of plastic windows

To insulate the ebbs, it is enough to foam all the cracks or place heat-insulating material in them. To avoid water getting on the heat-insulating material, a metal lath of the window tide is installed on top. The plank is installed at an angle (at least 5 °), its horizontal edge extends from the facade (by 20-30 mm), and the side edges are wrapped up. It is recommended to treat the junction of the plank with the surfaces with a sealant.

Internal insulation of plastic windows

Insulation of windows from the inside of the room is carried out in the following areas:

1.Insulation of internal slopes of plastic windows

Internal slopes are less affected by external factors, but put forward more requirements for the aesthetic component. Therefore, it is important to know how to insulate the slopes of plastic windows without losing the attractiveness of the window.

Work order:

  • crack treatment: removal of dirt, removal of old foam, falling parts, etc.;
  • applying a primer;
  • sealing cracks with mounting foam;
  • removal of excess foam after it dries;
  • installation of heat-insulating materials (foam or cotton wool);
  • drywall installation;
  • finishing drywall with putty and paint.

2. Insulation of the window sill of plastic windows

The gap between the wall and the window sill is one of the places of significant heat loss. Before deciding how to insulate the window sill of a plastic window, you need to determine its weak point, i.e. from where it blows. For example, blowing is possible between the plastic parts of the window and the window sill. In this case, it is recommended to use a sealant.

Heat loss between the window sill and the wall is also possible. In this case, insulation is carried out before the window sill is installed by laying a layer of heat-insulating material. And also after its installation - by foaming the distance between the window sill and concrete wall or brickwork.

3. Warming by adjusting the plastic window

Elimination of skewed PVC window sashes

To reduce heat loss, you need to adjust the fittings (components) of the window unit.

How to adjust plastic windows for the winter - video

Replacing the seal in plastic windows

Elimination of blowing through plastic windows is possible by replacing the rubber seal. You can change the seal with your own hands, everything is simple there - just pull out the old seal and insert a new one into the groove (groove).

Which sealant is best? Please note that there are black and black window insulation on the market. gray colors. The black seal is more plastic, but attractive light color, is due to various additives that reduce the cost of a window seal, and at the same time, worsen its properties (tightness of pressing).

Replacing the seal in plastic windows - video

Additional ways to insulate plastic windows

  1. Washing windows. Paradoxically, cleaning the double-glazed window helps save heat. After all, dirty glass loses its ability to pass sunlight, but continues to transmit rays in the infrared spectrum.

  2. Thick curtains. They also trap heat inside the room.

  3. Insulation of windows with improvised means. This method messes up a bit. appearance windows, but in critical cases, it can be a very worthy alternative to replacing a window unit. As a heater, foam rubber, soaked paper, window tape, strips of white fabric, etc. are used.

  4. Insulation of windows with heat-saving film. The energy-saving film is glued to the entire surface of the window (on the sashes). The main thing is to stick it correctly, without air bubbles and wrinkles. The film reduces heat loss through glass by 75%.

  5. Window heating. IN this case around the window there is a heating cable that heats the heating coil or an oil cooler is installed on the window.

  6. Electrically heated windows. The most technologically advanced way is to install plastic windows with heated glass. The technology is applied at the stage of window production. Provides for the installation on the inside of the glass of a special conductive film (a transparent film with conductive threads), which heats the glass from the inside.

  7. A complex approach. The most appropriate for insulating windows in an apartment or private house, as it eliminates all possible causes of heat leakage through metal-plastic or PVC windows.

Window glass insulation with energy-saving film - video

Conclusion

Window insulation often negatively affects indoor ventilation. Complete tightness is protection from the cold, but it is also fogging of the glass, which leads to the destruction of slopes and the appearance of fungus. The problem is solved by periodic ventilation of the room, micro-ventilation, installation of forced ventilation, etc.

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In Rus' there was a wonderful and useful tradition - to do everything with your own hands. She lives in our turbulent times. For example, insulating your window to protect from the weather - sometimes it's just as nice as dressing up Christmas tree Or paint eggs for Easter. Because you make yourself a gift in the form of warmth and comfort in the house. We will discuss the details of this procedure below.

How to insulate windows for the winter

Materials for window insulation - right at hand or in any hardware store.

The most time-tested and affordable insulation - newspaper. I put it in the cracks, glued it over with paper according to my grandmother's recipes and rejoice! Only in the spring, when the time comes to peel it off, you are tormented - you will have to rub the sashes strongly with soapy water.

Find cotton wool And paper tape The store is not a problem either. For better insulation they are used together. These little things can be easily detached from the window, and do no harm to it. And most importantly - they protect from drafts!

The paper tape “sits down” on the window firmly, but leaves traces Self-adhesive foam rubber is now sold This film is an excellent replacement for energy-saving glass

Still in use foam rubber. In addition to the usual in building materials stores, you will find a light self-adhesive. Here it is and choose! After all, in the spring it will not need to be removed, and for a couple of years it will serve you faithfully.

Heat-saving films- a common, albeit new means of insulation. Its mechanism of operation is as follows: the ultra-thin layers of metal that make up its composition reflect heat back into the apartment in winter, and do not let it through in summer. Sun rays inside. You need to change it every year - but that's not a problem. Low price allows.

If your window needs not only insulation, but also some kind of reconstruction, pay attention to the following types heaters.

It can siphon into a plastic window due to upset fittings. Instructions for adjusting it with explanatory photos can be found at the link:

sealant

Fill small gaps with sealant

It reliably closes small gaps between glass and glazing beads or in frames. At the same time, you can safely open the window in winter if it suddenly becomes hot.

Exists different types sealants, but silicone is more suitable for windows. It is elastic and does not deteriorate from precipitation. But there is one "but". If the sealant accidentally gets on the frame or window sill, it is difficult to remove it.

Mounting foam

There is little trouble with her. Only after drying, you need to cut off the "excess", hide this "beauty" under the putty and paint. Inside the house - this is necessary for ethical reasons, and outside - to protect the foam from the damaging rays of the sun.

sealant

The best seal is silicone

It, like foam rubber, serves to seal windows, although it is much more difficult to install it. The seal may or may not be self-adhesive. If you choose glue, know that it cannot be dyed, it will deteriorate.

Seals are different in structure. Professionals prefer tubular silicone rubber. He is not afraid of painting and temperature changes.

Window insulation tools

Your most important assistant in this matter is a knife. Are you afraid of getting hurt? It can be replaced by any thin sharp object: scissors, a ruler or a screwdriver.

If you are installing a sealant, you will additionally need a groove cutter for the sealant and a roller to roll it up. The lever syringe serves when treating windows with a sealant - a tube with material is inserted into it.

How to insulate windows yourself?

First, clean the window from crumbling paint and putty. Then thoroughly wash the entire window, vacuuming in inaccessible places. Do not consider these chores superfluous - this way the insulation will hold on better.

We warm between the wings and the profile

This can not be done if the temperature outside the window is zero and snow has fallen. Glass can crack due to temperature fluctuations. We use newspaper, cotton wool or paper tape. It should be noted that with such insulation, the far frame is not glued.

To insulate the window with newspaper, our ancestors soaked it in water. The resulting mass filled the distance between the glass and the glazing bead, as well as large cracks. Sometimes newspapers were rolled up into tubes before wetting. From above, all these joints with a mushy mass were glued with paper. Laundry soap was diluted to a liquid consistency - it was used as glue.

More "dry" methods of profile insulation - cotton and tape. Scotch tape without cotton wool is used quite often. In this case, they simply paste over the places “from where it blows”. However, cotton wool without scotch tape is like beer without vodka - money down the drain! Cotton wool is pushed into all the cracks with a knife, and a tape is glued on top. Even if in some places the tape peels off from the profile, the air bubbles of the cotton wool will not let the cold through.

Repair cracks between glass and frame

As experience shows, you can’t stuff a lot of cotton wool into small cracks. Therefore they are better insulate with sealant, filling them with the distance between the glass and frames.

To pull out the glass, take out the glazing beads with a chisel. The sealant is applied from the gun.

They work with sealant at temperatures from +5 to + 40. First you need to pull out the glass. With a strong screwdriver with a sharp sting, remove the glazing beads that hold the glass. First, remove the bottom bead, then the side ones, and lastly the top one, holding the glass. Then take out the glass. And don't forget to wear gloves!

We clean with a spatula seat glass from dirt. On the tube with sealant, carefully remove the nozzle and insert it into the construction gun. With it, we blow the sealant into the grooves. Did the material get on the frame or window sill? It is not easy to remove it, but a rag in gasoline will do just fine for this. It is more convenient to pick it off the glass with a knife.

Before warming, get spare glazing beads, because the old ones often break.

Making doors airtight

When your window is over 20 years old, the sashes can dry out and close loosely. Foam rubber and window seals will help close the gaps.

Self-adhesive foam rubber is mounted around the perimeter of the sash

If you use self-adhesive foam, then simply press it onto the previously cleaned surface around the perimeter of the wings. Check - if it continues to blow, seal the gap with tape. In the spring, remove the adhesive tape, and the foam will remain.

Mounting the seal- It's more of a hassle. It is only suitable for window in good condition. Otherwise, it will start to crumble. It is selected according to the size of the cracks. To close gaps 2 - 3.5 mm, profile E, P is used - for gaps 3 - 5 mm; 3 - 7 mm - will cover D.

We start by removing the sashes from the hinges. Next, we check the windows for rotten parts by tapping. In places where the sound is duller, the wood is rotten. If possible, it should be removed, and the gaps should be repaired with putty and painted.

We knock out a groove along the perimeter of the frame with a cutter. We clean it from sawdust and lubricate it with furniture glue so that the sealant is better held. Then we roll the sealant into the hole with a roller. When the work is finished, we hang the sashes back on the hinges.

We knock out a groove in the profile with a cutter. Insert a sealant there

It is not always possible to install a sealant due to the age of the window. But if you undertake, remember: you may need to replace the fittings. But then the window will last at least 10 years.

We insulate glass

For it is heat-saving film. We will also need a knife, scissors and ... a household hair dryer. If it seeps through the window, first it must be pasted over with foam rubber, otherwise nothing will come of the film. We clean the surface of the window, after which we glue the double-sided tape to insulate the windows around the perimeter of the profile.

The film is glued on double-sided tape for insulation

We take the film, separate two layers from each other, prying with a knife. Cut a piece of film to fit the window and note that it should overlap the tape.

Release the tape from the protective paper strip. Gently and preferably not alone, stick the film on the adhesive tape. Pull firmly so that there are no wrinkles - but not too hard so as not to tear. Then blow the film with a hair dryer - this way you will give it extra smoothness. And soon it will fit perfectly on the window. If the film is still torn, the adhesive tape will fix everything. If it is swollen, the windows are not insulated enough, and the whole operation will have to be repeated all over again.

We insulate the openings between the window and the wall

We seal the windows themselves, and we often leave the openings unattended - we don’t notice them behind the window sills or slopes. But in vain! They also need to be warmed up. For this, mounting foam is needed. Squeeze it out of the tube into the slot, and you're done!

You can make putty with your own hands. We mix building gypsum and chalk in a ratio of 2: 1 and dilute with water. The resulting solution fills all the cracks.

Windows insulation in Moscow. Prices

The service of window insulation in Moscow with a sealant costs from 2000 to 3500 rubles - quite inexpensive for the capital. The price includes both material with a service life of 15 years, and installation work. If you wish, you can get by with a smaller amount, while the life of the insulation is reduced by half.

With the onset of cold weather, we begin to worry about the heat preservation of the room. And since the bills for public utilities only grow, then everyone turns to the issue of thermal insulation more people. A large percentage of heat loss falls on windows and can range from 1/3 to 1/2. This problem is faced not only by the owners of old wooden windows, but also plastic ones. To keep warm and ensure comfortable conditions window sealing is done different ways- some of them are temporary and will not last longer than one season, while others, more laborious, will protect windows for several years. In this article, we will look at the main causes of seal failure and how to deal with them.

Causes of violation of thermal insulation

Wooden windows are highly economical and reliable. They can last for more than a decade, but with prolonged use, their thermal insulation characteristics deteriorate: cracks, gaps appear, glass fogs up, and frost often even appears. It happens by different reasons. These include drying out of wood, deformation of the structure of windows or the building itself. The drying of the wood leads to the appearance of cracks and the destruction of the wooden structure.
The deformation of the building can cause the window to warp, and its frame will not fit snugly against the wall. This will immediately lead to a strong loss of heat. Plastic windows, in comparison with wooden ones, are designed to improve thermal insulation and create comfortable conditions in the room. But not always their use will allow you to keep warm - there are a number of reasons for this. Such reasons include:

  • poor quality installation
  • seal defects;
  • problems with double-glazed windows;
  • mechanical damage.
Poor-quality installation is a common problem associated with the low qualification of the installation company's employees. It can arise not only because of the inattention of workers; errors may be made even at the measurement stage, due to which the window will not fit snugly. The seal is designed to protect against the penetration of cold into the room. In the closed position of the window, the seal fits well to the frame. But due to exposure to low temperatures, the rubber gasket wears out quickly. Double-glazed window is the main barrier to cold air. Violation of its tightness can lead to frost or condensation. The cause of mechanical damage is misuse, which arises from heavy loads. In this case, not only the frame structure, but also double-glazed windows and slopes may suffer. Slopes additionally help to seal the windows. Problems with them may arise due to poor installation or wear. As a result, the structure is destroyed and cracks or gaps are formed through which cold penetrates. There is a relationship between some reasons. For example, improper installation can lead to problems with slopes and double-glazed windows.

Did you know? The first double-glazed windows were created in Germany in the 19th century.

Common places to inflate

Before starting work on sealing windows, it is necessary to identify places of blowing.
Common places for blowing in wooden windows:

  • windowsill;
  • the junction of the window frame and sash;
  • wooden frame;
  • glass.
Very often, the weak points in wooden windows are the joints of glass and glazing beads, window sashes and frames (in particular, vents that often open). It is also worth noting the vulnerability of the junction of the window frame to the opening. To determine the place of blowing in plastic windows, it is necessary to examine the inside of the window profile. If a layer of dust forms on it, then there are problems with thermal insulation in these places. The exception in this case is the upper hinge of the window profile. In this place, the formation of dust is explained by the design features. Plastic windows have the following blowing points:
  • sash perimeter;
  • windowsill;
  • junction of impost and frame;
  • window hinges;
  • sealant.

Did you know? Doing research various means, protecting from the effects of radiation, Japanese scientists have identified materials that reflect heat when applied to the surface of the glass.

Identification of problem areas

If examining common inflation points fails to identify the problem area, other methods can be used. The first way is to run around the perimeter of the window with a wet hand, there will be a feeling in the place of blowing strong drop temperatures. Another option is to inspect the inside of the frame, but this method is only suitable for plastic windows.
If these simple methods do not allow you to identify problem areas, you can use the flame of a candle or lighter. If you hold a burning candle along the window frame, the junction with the slope and the window sill, the flame will begin to oscillate in places of blowing.

What and how to insulate

Window insulation measures are divided into two categories: temporary and conditionally permanent. Temporary ones are held annually with the onset of cold weather - these include warming with paper, cotton wool, foam rubber. Conditionally permanent methods include methods using mounting foam, sealant, rubber or polymer seals. Let's look at each of the methods of thermal insulation.

Newspaper (paper strips)

This method is very old, our grandmothers used it. Over time, the method of insulating windows with newspapers or paper strips has undergone some transformation, and now there are several options for its implementation. Paper putty can be made to seal window holes and seams.

It is necessary to grind paper or old newspapers, soften with water, and add clay or crushed chalk to the resulting mass. We cover the cracks with such a mass; for this it is better to use a knife or a metal ruler. Such a tool penetrates well into hard-to-reach places. Window tape or paper strips are suitable for closing this putty. You can also use strips of fabric. You can glue them with soap and water: pre-moistened strips are smeared with soap and covered with paper putty.
Another variation this method Provides insulation with paper rolls. The cracks are sealed with twisted paper tubes soaked in water. The joints of the frame and glass are sealed with paper strips smeared with soap.

Important! When using adhesive tape, the layer may peel off old paint so it may need to be repainted.

This method is very effective, but is only a temporary protection against the cold. With the onset of warm days, the insulation must be removed. But at this moment there is new problem associated with the careful removal of paper.

Energy saving film

A new trend in thermal insulation of windows is the use of energy-saving film. The principle of its action is to reflect infrared rays and reduce heat loss. Such a film winter time protect the house from the cold summer time will prevent the room from heating up. It is a good barrier to maintaining a comfortable climate in the house.
Such protection can be applied to the entire surface of the window, and not just to the glass, which creates additional thermal insulation. Energy-saving film is also called the "third glass". There is a film that is glued to the window frame and forms an additional protection 0.5-1 cm wide. After its installation, the temperature in the room rises by 3 or even 7 ° C. The use of this method is convenient for both plastic and wooden windows.

Styrofoam, polyurethane foam, basalt wool, foam rubber, paraffin

Other materials are also used to insulate windows. For example, foam rubber, paraffin, polystyrene or polyurethane foam. Consider the features of the application of each of these materials. The use of foam strips will help protect windows from drafts. This material easily penetrates into the gaps between the sashes and the window frame. Narrow foam strips are great for pasting window sashes around the perimeter, they fit snugly and allow you to use the window in winter.
If you stick such a sealant in several rows, this will improve the tightness of the room. Cracks larger than 2 mm can be sealed using flat foam rubber. To fill the gaps with foam rubber, use a thin and blunt object, such as a screwdriver or a table knife. After filling the cracks, they are sealed with adhesive tape, which provides additional thermal insulation. It is convenient to seal small cracks with paraffin. Using a steam bath, it is heated to 60-70 ° C - in this state it is easy to draw it into a syringe - after which the slots are filled with it.

Paraffin is an excellent draft barrier. If the gap is large enough, then use a clothesline in combination with paraffin. But such protection is enough for only one season. You can insulate wooden windows with a sealant (acrylic or silicone). These sealants are applied to the border between the glass and the frame, as well as between the window sill and window profile. To seal window frames, it is necessary to first dismantle the glazing beads, clean the debris and apply sealant to the junction of the glass with the window frame.

It is possible to mount glazing beads only after the sealant has completely dried. It should be borne in mind that after dismantling the glazing beads, you may need new ones, since they often break. Thus, you will not only insulate the window, but also make repairs.

Important! To seal cracks in wooden windows, you can use wood putty or a mixture of gypsum and chalk. After performing insulation work, as finish coat varnish and paint can be used. Unlike sealant or paraffin, such a coating lays down without problems.

Styrofoam can be used as slope insulation, which is used both for external and for interior decoration. Before using the foam, it is necessary to pre-treat the surface: remove dirt and old mounting foam. For insulation of slopes, it is better to use sheet foam, which is convenient to use and has high thermal insulation properties. Styrofoam is glued to the slope and all cracks are sealed.
Sticks to foam base reinforced mesh, then you can apply plaster and paint. Basalt wool, like polystyrene, is an excellent heat-insulating material. The use of this material will allow you to insulate slopes and window sills. The advantages of this material include resistance to fire. When using this material for external insulation of slopes, additional finishing is required, since given material easily gets wet and loses its thermal insulation properties. Sometimes a simple insulation or sealant is not enough to insulate windows. For example, when there are big gaps or through at the junction of the window opening and the frame. In such cases, it is better to use mounting foam. With its help, you can not only insulate the slopes, but also isolate the space under the windowsill. But during prolonged contact of the mounting foam with external environment it deteriorates its insulating properties and may even be partially destroyed. Such insulation is a very effective and affordable solution to the problem of heat loss.

Important! For sealing, you can prepare your own putty. To do this, mix 1 part of chalk and 2 parts of building gypsum with the addition of water. Such a putty will become great alternative assembly foam.

The window structure can also be sealed using a tubular profile. It is characterized by high reliability and long service life, which will allow them to be classified as conditionally permanent methods of insulation. The installation of such an insulator is best done in the warm season, but it can be done with the onset of cold weather, the main thing is that the temperature does not fall below -10 ° C. It is attached to the window frame with a self-adhesive strip. Such isolation is laborious, but the result will not be long in coming. The tubular sealant is used for thermal insulation of the window according to the so-called "Swedish" technology.

Before starting work on window insulation, it is necessary to determine the size of the seal. To do this, use a piece of plasticine wrapped in polyethylene. It is placed in the gap between the sash and the frame and the window is closed. Depending on the size of the gap, a tubular seal is used in sizes E, P, D. To install the seal, it is necessary to make a slot in the base frame. Fix the seal with glue. The use of this method allows you to insulate windows for 20 years, or even more.

The progress of work on the insulation of wooden and plastic windows

Each of the warming methods given above is effective. But any work carried out in the complex is much more effective than using them separately. Let's look at the procedure for sealing work.

Step 1: Replacing the seals

People who are faced with the problem of violation of the thermal insulation of windows, first of all, replace the seal. It is best to do this work in dry and warm weather. Replacing the seal on wooden windows is quite simple. But with plastic, the situation is different - the seal on them wears out after 5 years of operation. It is recommended to replace only the one that has already worn out and does not cope with its functions. In other cases, using silicone putty a couple of times a year can extend the life of the seal. To replace the rubber seal on the windows, you need to pry off the old one and pull it out. Before inserting a new seal, it is necessary to wipe the grooves from dust. A new seal must be purchased of the same thickness and preferably from the same manufacturer. A new seal is inserted into the cleaned grooves. For the convenience of performing this operation, it is recommended to remove the sash. Thus, the seal on the sashes and the window frame is replaced. To change the rubber gasket that protects the double-glazed unit, it is necessary to perform more complex and time-consuming operations.

Important! Seals from different manufacturers have a different structure, and may also differ in color.

First, remove the glazing beads that hold the double-glazed window. Now you can easily remove the glass and pull the seal out of the grooves. Just as when replacing the seal on the sashes, the grooves must be cleaned. It is recommended to cut off the rubber gasket with a margin of 6 cm, in which case it will fit snugly around the entire perimeter of the double-glazed window. The new seal is placed in the grooves, after which you can collect everything back. For additional fixation of the seal, you can use glue.

Step 2: Pressure Adjustment (new designs only)

For many, this feature in plastic windows may seem like a novelty, but manufacturers recommend adjusting the pressure 2 times a year. It has to be different for every season. To make this adjustment, you will need a 4mm hex wrench or pliers, depending on the design of the window. At the end of the sash there is an eccentric with a risk, which is required. An eccentric is a device for adjusting the fit of the sash to the window frame. IN plastic structures it is possible to set the winter and summer mode, as well as the average, which is set by default.

By rotating the eccentric, you can adjust the tightness of the flaps. Using the winter mode allows you to keep warm in the room due to a tighter fit. And with the onset of warm days, the windows are switched to summer mode, which allows you to increase air circulation. In some cases, such an adjustment is not enough, therefore, an additional adjustment of the loops is carried out. If winter ventilation is provided for in the window design, then both the lower and upper hinges are adjusted. And in cases where such a function is not provided, it is enough just to adjust the lower hinges. To make these settings, you need to open a window. IN open position move the sash to the ventilation position. Only in this position can the top hinge be adjusted. By turning the adjusting screw, you can change the fit of the sash to the frame.

Step 3: Insulation of slopes

A variety of materials can be used to insulate slopes. The most popular of them: polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and a sealant with a polyvinyl chloride layer. All of them provide good thermal insulation. Before deciding on the material for sealing, it is necessary to examine the external and internal slopes. Poorly performed work or wear of the material can lead to the fact that the thermal insulation of the room is broken. In such a situation, before starting the insulation, it is necessary to remove old material and reinstall the slopes. Thermal liners can be used to insulate slopes from the inside. After their careful fixation and strengthening, the slopes are cosmetically finished. These inserts can be used basalt wool. Another option is to stick foam on inner surface slopes. Then it should be puttied or covered with drywall.

Did you know? There is a myth that thermal insulation materials repel mice, but such materials do not exist.

Another way of finishing and sealing is the installation of so-called "sandwich panels". This panel already has thermal insulation layer what makes them convenient option slope insulation. For additional sealing, a layer of cotton wool can be used as the basis for the sandwich panel. An important point in the process of slope insulation is the inadmissibility of the presence of air gaps.
To avoid this problem, you can use special adhesives. They are applied around the perimeter of the treated surface, as well as on the seams. Properly applied adhesive promotes good adhesion to the slope surface.

Step 4: Working on the window sill

Another problem area in window insulation is the window sill. Poor installation may result in big problems during operation. For example, if the space under the window sill is not sufficiently filled with mounting foam, air pockets can form there that violate the thermal insulation. Another problem is the destruction of the foam under the influence of mechanical loads or thermal factors.

Important! When installing window structures in winter, you need to use the so-called "winter" mounting foam, which provides better sealing.

In such situations, re-sealing with mounting foam is required. To carry out such work, it is first necessary to remove the old foam, and then fill the space with a new layer. But such material does not allow closing small gaps. You can seal them with sealant. It penetrates well into the cracks and completely seals them. In addition, it repels water well. The combination of such materials will close all problem areas.

Step 5: Paste the glass

Sometimes, after eliminating all problems, heat losses remain at a sufficient high level. In such cases, glass is pasted over to provide thermal insulation. For this, they can be used various materials. For example, for better protection against exposure to low temperatures, you can paste over the junction of the glass and the frame with tape. An energy-saving film can also be used as a heater for glass.

Packaging film, or, as it is also called, bubble film, can also be used to insulate windows. This film can be purchased at any hardware store. It helps to protect the house from the cold and improves the energy efficiency of the building. It takes very little time to install, and subsequently it does not require special care. The film can be repeatedly glued and peeled off. Such a seal does not prevent the ingress of sunlight.
For installation, you will need scissors, a spray gun and a film with bubbles. We cut the film to the size of the glass and wet its flat side. We apply the film with the wet side on the abundantly moistened glass. Water provides good adhesion to the surface. The applied film is well leveled. Such a heater helps to protect the glass from unnecessary heat loss, and most importantly, it is a very convenient and economical method. The use of the film leaves no traces, which makes it easier to care for the window after removing the seal.

Step 6: Warming from the outside

From the outside of the building, slopes and low tide are insulated. The lack of thermal insulation of external slopes will not allow you to reliably protect windows from drafts and cold. For thermal insulation of external slopes, foam plastic 5 cm thick and a mounting grid are used. Finishing slopes from the outside is often accompanied by complete insulation of the building, but this work can be carried out separately.

Important! The foam should cover part of the window frame and completely cover the mounting seam.

In the process of performing such work, pre-prepared foam strips are tightly glued to the previously cleaned surface. At the end of such work, the foam must be plastered, which will protect it from further destruction. When performing thermal insulation work, it must be remembered that for the correct distribution of light in the room, the slopes must have an expanded angle with respect to the window.
Drain - very important point to ensure the tightness of the window. To prevent moisture from accumulating, the slope should have a bevel of 5 ° and protrude from the building by 4 cm, and the side edges should be bent upwards. This shape will allow water to flow freely without penetrating under the ebb. For additional protection against moisture, the places where the tide is attached to the window and slopes are additionally sealed.

How to stick a heat-insulating film

Such protection, due to its multilayer structure, has a low heat transfer coefficient. The energy-saving effect is provided by the air gap. Protection of 15 microns allows you to increase the temperature in the room by 3 ° C. For installation, you will need a knife, scissors and a hair dryer. For wooden structures The film can be applied both to the entire surface of the window, and only to the glass. If you stick it on the entire surface of the window frame, then it is necessary to seal the cracks, and for the convenience of work, remove the handles. Windows must first be thoroughly washed and degreased.

A double-sided adhesive tape is glued to a clean surface around the perimeter. The film is folded in two layers, so you need to separate them. We cut the film to the size of the window. It must be borne in mind that the film must be glued to the adhesive tape, so it is worth making a margin of 2 cm. Before gluing, we check the correctness of the measurements. If all measurements are correct, then you can remove the protective paper strip from the double-sided tape. You will need help to move forward. Gently distribute the film over the entire surface of the window and glue around the entire perimeter. At the moment, you can ignore the wrinkles that form. When gluing, do not stretch the film too much, as it has a heat-shrinkable structure. Use a hair dryer to smooth out wrinkles. Under the influence of hot air, the film is smoothed and settles. Another option for sealing windows is to stick the film directly on the glass surface. In this case, the double-glazed window is removed from the frame, after which it can be applied to the window. She has different coverage sides, one of them is metallized. It is necessary to stick the film on the glass with this side. For gluing, the glass is moistened with water and smoothed. In the process of work, care must be taken not to create folds or bubbles. So, we have considered simple and available ways, which will help protect windows from blowing. However, the best option for protection against drafts and cold is a complex of thermal protection works. Now you know how to insulate your home, so that in the future you will not have problems with blowing windows.

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As you know, in winter it is through the windows that the most heat leaves the room, which means that they need to be insulated as quickly as possible. In addition, it is quite simple to do it yourself, and such insulation is inexpensive.

Even our ancestors knew how to properly seal the cracks in the windows, so that in winter the house would be warm, and it would take a little firewood. Now much more commonly used plastic double-glazed windows, and manufacturers claim that they do not emit heat at all, however, buyers have a completely different opinion on this matter: “Still, it blows from plastic windows.”

It's getting colder now, and it's time to take care of keeping warm. Therefore, today we will consider insulation options for all types of windows so that comfort does not leave your home in winter.

Insulation of wooden windows

Many people prefer not to replace traditional wooden windows with plastic ones. But it is wooden windows that require special care and thorough insulation every winter. To do this, there are several of the most common methods for insulating wooden windows:

  • Windows are sealed with strips of paper or tape. This is not always practical: if you need to open the window, then you will have to re-glue it later, and it is difficult to get rid of traces of glue;
  • Putty is used for insulation. It may melt and leak high temperature, soiling both the window sill and the frame;
  • Strips of cotton wool or fabric are driven into the slots in the frames. It's also not the most practical option.

But we will consider an option that looks aesthetically pleasing and will serve you reliably for many years.

First of all, you should stock up necessary materials. There are only two of them, and they are quite affordable at any hardware or hardware store:

  • Frost-resistant silicone sealant, colorless or frame-matched;
  • Rubber sealant on a sticky basis.

To find out how much sealant is needed, measure the perimeter of all the leaves, fold and divide by 2. The sealant is sold in pairs, and we will glue it in 1 row, dividing it into two layers.

Your main task is to get rid of the draft. First glue the glass. To do this, apply the sealant in a thin strip to the joints between the glass and the frame, and then gently slide along the seam with a rubber spatula. In this way, glue all the glasses on both the inner and outer frames.

Now you need to glue all the sash around the perimeter with a rubber seal on the outside. Since the seal has a large cross section and is easily compressed, all slots overlap quite tightly. In order for the adhesive layer on the sealant to adhere well to the surface, the frame must be clean, without peeling paint. Pre-wipe surfaces with acetone or thinner. Glue the edges of the seal with glue or nail it with wallpaper nails so that it does not fly off. Now your windows are made of wood and are easy to open.

What if the windows are old? Insulation of old wooden windows

Old wooden windows that are still in use are unlikely to meet the new requirements for sound insulation, tightness and thermal conductivity. In addition, they have already dried out and cracked, and replacement is not cheap. Therefore, the insulation of old wooden windows requires a careful approach.

  1. Use foam strips to insulate old windows. They must be evenly positioned in the slots of the frames using a flat, blunt object, such as a screwdriver or knife. After that, glue the insulated places with strips of paper smeared with soapy water or paste. For convenience, you can use a wide adhesive tape.
  2. Often, paraffin is used to treat cracks, previously melted in a water bath and heated to 70 degrees. Slots in the window are poured with liquid paraffin using a syringe without a needle.
  3. Of the modern means, seals are very popular: polyvinyl chloride, foam rubber and rubber. The type of seal to be selected depends on the width of the slots, the quality of the frame, its condition, as well as the temperature.
  4. One of the most effective insulating materials is called a tubular profile. Its advantages over the above means are that it is invisible, has a long service life and maintains tightness when opening and closing windows.
  5. Silicone sealant will not only serve good insulation, but it will also help to fix the cracked frame. True, the process of working with this material is quite laborious, and looks more like than simple warming before winter.

The most important thing when working with old windows is to be careful not to have to change the frames completely. It is better to spend more time and use more expensive but reliable materials, and be sure that the windows will not let you down in the cold.

Insulation of plastic windows

Plastic windows, despite manufacturers' assurances of reliability, also need to be insulated. So let's take a look at a few common methods.

  1. The cheapest option is to curtain the window with a dense, heat-holding material. Previously, blankets were used for this, but this is only suitable for wooden windows. For double-glazed windows, there are more modern facility- a colorless polyethylene film that is attached to the window. This method is very simple and does not require mandatory dismantling.
  2. Some people prefer to insulate the window with blinds. In this case, the window frame itself is not affected, and strips of woolen fabric are glued to the blinds.
  3. A more expensive method is to install a glass heating system. Now there are many different electric window heaters that are installed on the windowsill, or filament coils that are glued directly to the glass.
  4. Most reliable way- installation of a metal-plastic double-glazed window, in which there are at least three glasses. At least one of these glasses will be energy-saving. The use of such special glasses significantly increase the heat-saving characteristics of plastic windows. The double-glazed window must be equipped with thermal break elements with metal inserts; the space between the glasses is usually filled with argon or krypton. Such a window will not be cheap, but the house will be reliably protected from cold and drafts.

Insulation of window slopes: choice of materials

After you replace your old wooden windows with new plastic ones, you count on protection from noise, dust and cold. At first, PVC profile windows justify themselves, but then they begin to let in cold and moisture. This can happen due to subsidence of the walls of the house and depressurization of the seams. Of course, this situation does not add comfort, so you will need to hold the slopes of the windows inside and out.

This method will help create an additional protective and heat-insulating layer. For this you will need the following materials:

  • Expanded polystyrene extruded;
  • Styrofoam;
  • Fiberglass (Isover);
  • Mineral wool;
  • Sandwich panels.

These materials are produced in the form of plates. Which one to choose for the insulation of your windows, decide depending on the size of the gaps. For example, if the gap is at least 40 mm, then foam plastic, expanded polystyrene and fiberglass 2-3 cm thick will work well. If the gap is narrow, then use mineral wool or polyurethane foam.

Insulation of slopes is not a difficult task, and if you have at least a little skills in construction work, then you can easily cope with it yourself. just arm yourself with some recommendations.

If the premises are multi-layered and lined with insulating materials that reach the window frame, window insulation is not necessary. Such a structure of the walls is in itself protection against freezing. But if the walls are single-layer, or the house is built of panels with stiffeners, then it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation. In this case, you will need to place special thermal inserts along the slopes.

Slope insulation process

Slope insulation is carried out as follows.

The material selected for thermal insulation is attached to the surface of the window opening, while the seam resulting from installation must be closed, and the window frame partially blocked. Install drywall on top of the material, and putty and paint the surface. If you use extruded polystyrene foam, then you can not use GKL.

Glue sheets of insulation on the upper part of the slopes, fix the plaster mesh on top. Apply it in a thin layer cement-sand mixture, and to fix the result, apply a finishing putty.

Insulation of slopes with foam plastic also deserves attention. When the plastic window frame is installed, plaster the opening. The surface must be well dried in order to stick a layer of foam up to 5 mm thick on it. After that, putty and paint the surface. This will create good protection from the ingress of cold air from the street into living rooms. In this embodiment, the window opening from the outside can be insulated with polystyrene foam, with plaster applied to it.

When laying the insulation, check the good density of its pressing to the surface. For more effective insulation process not only the window block, but also any mounting seams, filling them with mounting foam or mineral wool.

Treat those window slopes that are not equipped with insulation with a special vapor barrier to prevent moisture from penetrating. To do this, use a sealing tape made of, sealing mastic or polyvinyl chloride sealing films. Insulating material must be insulated from moisture.

Windows insulation according to Swedish technology

This method dials in Lately increasing popularity. It owes its name to the Swedish-made material used (tubular silicone rubber seal). Manufacturers claim that such material is durable (up to 20 years), does not lose its performance when wide range temperatures and is not afraid of exposure to dirt and paints.

It is very difficult to insulate windows using Swedish technology on your own. This will require both professional skills and special tools. It is quite difficult to make a selection with a cutter around the perimeter with your own hands so as to get a groove for rolling the sealant, and this is exactly what is needed so that the material does not peel off and fall out over time.

It is better to order this work to professionals. It will cost relatively inexpensively, and the price includes such work as dismantling the window sashes, preparing a groove for a sealant, locating a tubular silicone sealant in it, adjusting the sash if necessary, sealing the glass and the opening between the sashes.

Assessment of work with fittings is carried out separately, both repair and complete replacement. Window frame repair is also paid separately. The price for painting the window is also indicated separately.

If you calculate the entire amount that you have to pay for a set of works, then it is easy to see that it is no less than the cost of a standard plastic window, taking into account the entire structure and its installation. Therefore, you should make a choice - to insulate a wooden window or install a plastic one.

The main thing to remember when using Swedish technology is that window frames must be intact, with no signs of decay. Replacement of such elements will be expensive.

Now your home is completely isolated from the cold and moisture. All winter you will be surrounded by comfort, and you will be able to save significantly on energy carriers - gas or electric heating, and even wood and coal, if you have stove heating. We look forward to your comments, in which you can ask questions or provide suggestions. Good luck in your work!