At first glance, all plastic window sills seem the same. However, you need to choose this part of the window wisely. main feature high-quality window sill - the presence of stiffening ribs inside plastic product. Particular attention should be paid to this if the window sill is long. If there are no ribs during operation, the window sill may become deformed.
Practitioners also advise when buying a window sill to pay special attention to its appearance. The product must be covered with a special protective film. If it is missing, the window sill will need to be wrapped with something during installation. This will bring some inconvenience, because the film placed on top will not be able to adhere like “native”, and as a result of its slipping, scratches may appear on the surface.
The third thing you need to pay attention to is whether there is a defect. Often, defects are not so noticeable under the film, so the risk of purchasing a defective window sill that goes on sale is quite high. If this happens to you, you can try to hide the scratches on the surface of the window sill with liquid plastic. Problem areas just need to be puttied with this substance, and the scratches will become almost invisible.
Such simple tips will help you choose a product, and you can start installing it only after studying the step-by-step instructions.
You are offered the most common installation method, which is quite easy and quick. However, there are non-standard situations when one of the stages is either not required or will be carried out differently. For example, a product with outside the building is attached to the rail located at the bottom of the window frame with self-tapping screws. However, in some designs there is no such rail, so the window sill should be screwed to the frame with inside. Then the screws are screwed in diagonally at the bottom of the window. If for some reason this cannot be done, the window sills are secured with foam for installation. The main thing before installation plastic window sill realize the following - there is no standard technology for putting a window sill into operation. Therefore, you can deviate from the installation diagram at any stage if circumstances require it.
Also study information on the topic in addition to the current article.
You are lucky if the old window sill is simply not there, since it takes several hours to disassemble it. The fact is that in many residential buildings built in Soviet times, the window sills are installed “conscientiously”. They are so firmly attached that they are most easily removed together with window frame. If the old window sill is dismantled separately (the window is already installed), you will need to tinker a little. If the window sill is wooden, you need to remove it very carefully so as not to tear out a piece of the wall along with it. There is very little pleasure in this. If the window sill is made of concrete, it will be even more difficult to dismantle it. This concrete window attribute is tightly adjacent to the wall surface and is a solid block that requires the use of a hammer drill. If you don’t have such an expensive power tool, there is no need to buy one. By renting a hammer drill, you will avoid unnecessary expenses. Such a service is not so expensive, especially since you will not be renting the tool for a long time; you will only need it for one day.
During dismantling work, two main factors are important: accuracy and consistency. A careful approach to dismantling the window sill will prevent damage to the glass or window frame, and will also keep the walls intact. The entire dismantling process is carried out as follows: we cut the wooden window sill in the central part hand saw or with a jigsaw in the transverse direction. Afterwards, a pry bar is inserted between the window sill and the window frame, which must be slowly moved away from the window opening. When it is impossible to move the item to be dismantled, you need to check whether the window sill is attached with screws or special nails. When fasteners are missing and the window sill does not begin to move, you need to inspect the slopes. Most likely, they fit closely to the window sill, so you will have to use a hammer drill or jackhammer to break up the junction points.
Manifestation white plaque- efflorescence
A concrete window sill is easier to remove, but this requires the use of physical strength. This type of window sill is not secured with additional parts, so you just need to slowly break the product with a hammer drill. In this case, you need to pay attention to the fact that, regardless of the material of the old window sill, the new one during installation will also go deeper by about 5-10 cm into the bottom of the side slope. Recesses in the slopes are required so that the edges of the window sill fit into them easily. This way the product is fixed more firmly. After completing the dismantling work, you can proceed to installing plastic window sills using the standard scheme.
All actions when installing a newly purchased product must be performed in a certain order. First, you need to use a tape measure to take measurements of the acceptable width of the window sill, taking into account that its edges will go deeper into the slope. Afterwards, the product is placed tightly against the window sill strip and screwed with self-tapping screws. At this stage, you must carefully ensure that no gaps form between the window and the window sill surface. After this, wooden linings are placed under the window sill. Such wooden planks will help you adjust the horizontal position of the window sill according to the level. The free space in the recesses and under the surface of the window sill is filled with foam for installation. After the substance has dried, the product is completely ready for use.
Installation work ends here. If everything is done correctly, no problems will arise when using the window sill. Durable installed product will serve for a long time.
Often when conducting overhaul The old windows in the room have to be replaced. However, window installation cannot be considered complete without exterior finishing, We will talk about how they install and stand) in this material.
There are several solutions that allow you to find the answer to the question of how to install a window sill with your own hands:
How to install a plastic window sill with your own hands in the most basic way? To do this you may need the following tools:
First of all, you should prepare the above tools, which will definitely come in handy during the work process. Next you need to make correct measurements. This directly depends on aesthetic appearance installed window sill and its reliability.
When taking measurements, it is important to take into account not only the parameters of the fabric being installed, but also a whole list additional characteristics. The location of the existing radiator deserves special attention here. If the latter is installed high enough, the presence of a free space of a few centimeters to the lower edge of the window sill can lead to disruption of air circulation in the room and deterioration of the microclimate.
When taking measurements, it should be taken into account that the length of the window sill should be greater than the space of the window opening. The width of the product can be chosen arbitrarily, depending on personal convenience and needs. Convenient option there will be a window sill that protrudes from the wall at a distance not exceeding 8-10 cm.
So, let's look further at how to properly install a window sill. Sometimes during installation it is necessary to trim the product so that it matches the parameters of the window opening. The largest window sills reach a length of 3 m or more. The width of the structure can be from 25 to 70 cm.
If the window sill is too large, excess material can be cut off from the side where it attaches to the wall. Special attention Here it is worth paying attention to the cutting line. It must pass without touching the stiffening ribs, which are located inside the window sill. Thus, the structure does not deform during operation and will be securely connected to the frame.
To trim the window sill, it is recommended to use electric jigsaw. It is allowed to use a small hacksaw for wood or plastic, depending on the material of the structure. The work should be done slowly, which will avoid chips and scratches on the front surface window sill.
When sawing products, do not forget about safety. Since broken pieces of material can get into your eyes, it is recommended that you wear assembly glasses. To protect your hands, you should use gloves or work gloves.
Installation of plastic window sills is quite simple:
How to install window sills on plastic windows correctly? To do this, there should be a free distance of approximately 6-7 cm between the heating radiator and the lower edge of the product plane. Only in this case warm air will rise freely from the battery, drying the double-glazed windows and slopes.
Installation is much more difficult. Before you start work, you should pay attention to the quality source material. The window sill board should not contain obvious flaws in the form of chips, knots, or other defects. Moreover, you should use a well-dried board. Otherwise, the latter may crack during operation under the influence of sudden temperature changes and changes in humidity levels.
How to install a window sill in this case:
Craftsmen who are well versed in how to install a wooden window sill recommend making a fairly impressive slope into the room, which should be about 20 mm. This avoids the accumulation of condensation on the surface of the product and prevents rotting of the material.
Upon completion of the installation of the window sill, slopes should be made. First of all, you need to resort to aligning the window opening vertically and horizontally. The easiest way to cope with the task is to use polyurethane foam. The latter will serve as good protection for slopes from freezing.
Surfaces can be reinforced with mounting mesh or plasterboard. The main task is to maximize the alignment of the planes, as well as the formation of a smooth texture. The top of the slopes can be coated with paint, choosing the color based on the features of the interior solutions.
If the edge of the window sill protrudes into the room by 10 cm or more in relation to the edge of the wall, it is recommended to strengthen the structure. For these purposes, it is worth resorting to using metal corners. But even when implementing such a solution, you should not overload the edges of the window sill during operation, as this may cause deformation of the plane.
Particular attention should be paid to the conditions for installing the window sill on the balcony. In order for the surfaces to “grab” firmly, it is advisable to maintain the air temperature in the range from +16 to +20 o C for several days.
When installing a window sill, it is recommended to apply a lot of polyurethane foam at the ends and in the middle part of the product. To strengthen the structure, it is allowed to use silicone sealants and glue.
As you can see, installing a window sill with your own hands is a completely doable task. The main thing is to approach the work carefully and not miss moments that may negatively affect the subsequent operation of the structure.
The attractiveness of the external design of the window opening depends on the installation of window sills. Failure to install them will not only make the room look unkempt, but will also create some inconvenience. In particular, the homeowner will have to regularly eliminate condensation leaks formed on the windows. Otherwise, annual finishing and renewal of surfaces will be required.
How to take the dimensions of a window sill and how to cut a PVC window sill? Competent, step by step installation window sill. Read in this article.
The classic installation of a PVC window sill is the installation of a window sill, which includes the basic operations performed in most cases. Of course, there are always exceptions, which we will also talk about, for example VIP installation!
PVC window sills are most often installed on plastic windows. Wooden window sills are installed less frequently. And very rarely, stone window sills are installed. The latter have their own installation specifics. We will not talk about them in this article.
How to install a wooden window sill on plastic windows? The technology for installing plastic and wooden window sills is not fundamentally different. Therefore, further, we will only talk about methods for installing PVC window sills.
For those who first decided to install a window sill with their own hands, it is important to know that the quality of the window sill plastic affects the installation process. If you intend to work with an economy class window sill (for example, from the ECO company), then you need to treat it with care. For example, when cutting such a window sill with a jigsaw, large chips may appear.
Where can you buy a PVC window sill in St. Petersburg at an affordable price? — Below, for comparison, I give approximate window sill prices for plastic windows, having dimensions 250 x 2000 mm:
Following the technology for installing a turnkey plastic window, the plastic window sill should be installed after the plastic window has already been installed. In the previous article, I already said that the ebb and window sill are installed at the same time.
In order to understand how to install a window sill on plastic windows, you need to understand that the most important operation in this process is marking the PVC window sill. Next, step-by-step verified instructions with photos, and my video is at the end of the article.
First, take a sheet of paper and a pencil. We draw a window in a section along the width, in a simple way, in the form of an elongated rectangle. View from above. And enter the value of the window width into our rectangle.
Secondly, we find the starting point of the marking. This is done as follows. We measure the length of the window sill. We write the value above the rectangle. We get two numerical values in a column that need to be subtracted. Like at school, in first grade))).
We divide the resulting difference in half. And we get the main number, which determines the starting point for marking the PVC window sill. This figure is equal to the distance from the edge of the window sill to the edge of the frame on each side.
Thus, after installing the window sill and slopes, we will have the same:
Thirdly, continuing the marking, we take two bench squares (90 degrees) with a scale of 30 cm and 50 cm. Next, we place the first large square with one side against the window sill profile, and with the other side, perpendicular, we press it against the wall, leaving a small gap. The main thing is to understand that the position of the square is the future position of the cut-off window sill. All that remains is to take the first measurement along the length of the window sill, and write down this size on our sheet of paper, on which the starting point of measurement has already been determined.
Fourthly, using a second square, pressing it against the inner wall of the room, we fix the second size along the width of the window sill. After which, the last cutting line of the side protrusion is automatically obtained.
Dimensions are taken similarly on the right side of the window sill.
After which the markings are applied to the window sill itself.
This markup that we looked at is the simplest. It is made in a flat perpendicular opening.
It happens that the opening has a step configuration, then it is necessary to take several measurements. But the principle of marking does not change.
Fifthly, if the opening has an angle, then the marking of the PVC window sill is carried out at an angle. To do this, just as in the first case, we press one side of the large square against the window sill profile, and direct the other perpendicular side at an angle. Let's imagine that this will be the corner cutting line. And we place the second square against the inner wall of the room. The point where the squares intersect is the end point. Let's fix its value. Next, leaving the second small square in a stationary position, we again attach the large square to the window sill profile at 90 degrees. We fix the second value at the intersection of the squares.
Thus, the PVC window sill is marked. It should also be said that the cutting line of the side protrusion can be flush with internal wall premises, and is buried in this wall. This depends on whether the customer will make repairs after installing the window.
After marking, the PVC window sill must be cut off. For this you can use four tools:
1. Hacksaw for metal. Yes, the cheapest instrument, but it requires good physical preparation.
2. Electric jigsaw. The most acceptable option. You can use an inexpensive one. For example, I'm in Lately I use the company Interskol. Such a jigsaw costs from 1700 to 2500 rubles.
The main thing when working with a jigsaw is to set the pendulum stroke to the number “0” and use a metal file with a fine tooth.
3. Grinder (“UShM” - corner Grinder). Most effective tool. Allows you to cut PVC window sills most accurately. But, at the same time, the grinder is very noisy and creates a lot of dust.
4. Cordless saw “Makita HS300DWE” and “Bosch GKS 10.8 V-LI”. Lightweight, convenient, cordless tool, but very expensive. The cost of such a saw is about 10,000 rubles.
By the way, we don’t throw away the trimmings from the window sill. They will be useful to us during installation. Read about it below.
We made the markings. The window sill was cut off. Now we will learn how to install it. Before that, we need to prepare some materials:
Well, and some tools:
The most important thing in installing a window sill- these are its supporting points, or rather their number. The classic installation done by most window installers is to minimize these supporting elements. In this case, the window sill will look quite durable. You can stand on it and you can walk on it. In this case, a slight deflection is possible. As they say, price equals quality.
The gap between the window sill and its base in classical method doesn't matter. There are many tricks and subtleties that allow you to achieve a certain strength of the window sill with a large gap, for example from 5 to 15 cm. It is clear that the client who has paid for the classic installation of windows is enough low price, has no idea that he is literate and correct installation has a completely different cost. And having recognized her, he would have begun to doubt and run to another company, where he would have been offered the original price, having gone over his ears. And the end result would most likely be the same.
This revelation is necessary so that a client who wants truly super quality must understand that he will have to pay a lot of money for this quality. But this is not enough. Also, you need to thoroughly study the process for which he pays. For example, the process we are talking about in this article is how to install a window sill on plastic windows? Otherwise, he will simply be cheated. So there are two options:
I consider myself not to have the right to condemn the first installation method, since it has the right to life, if only because we live in Russia. And in our country there is such a thing as Russian reality. But even this installation method must be competent and verified.
So we already have installed window and a PVC window sill cut to size. As I said above, we need to create support points in two or three rows parallel to the window. The first row runs directly along the window. The second row runs along the edge of the inner wall. The third row is the middle one and is necessary if the window sill width is more than 400 mm.
In the classical method, the optimal number of support points in each row is calculated as follows:
Further, the support in a classic PVC window sill installation is usually wooden. And these wooden linings, the installers saw from old, dismantled, wooden windows, which is not so scary. After all, the tree is dry.
First, we set up the first row. To do this, take the largest trim from the window sill. With its help, we select the height of the support so that the window sill is pressed tightly against the window frame.
Also, instead of wooden pads, you can use brackets to press the window sill to the window frame, costing 8 rubles apiece. A little expensive, but the installation speed is increased and simplified. The number of staples is the same as the number of supports. The disadvantage is that the bracket only serves as a temporary support for the window sill. Under the weight of a person, the bracket bends slightly, unlike wooden linings. To avoid this, after foaming the window sill (foaming occurs at the very end), you need to wait for the foam to dry completely, about one hour, before standing on the windowsill.
When the first support row is set, you can proceed to the second - outermost row. It is also installed using the same trim from the window sill, and using a level or square. I prefer a square, and set the window sill at 90 degrees relative to the window frame at each reference point. After all, I know that my In this case, the subsequent installation of the slope is facilitated. There is practically no gap between the slope and the window sill. And the slope does not need to be cut at an angle (extra work). And the horizontal level of the window sill does not need to be checked. It will be the same as the window level.
Here, let's make a small digression. The question arises. How to properly install a window sill on plastic windows? Strictly at a horizontal level or at an angle of 2 - 3 degrees (with a slight inclination into the room)? Why is it so strongly recommended to do this tilt? No matter what site you go to, everywhere an inclination angle of 2-3 degrees is required and that’s it.
So, the slope is needed to drain water inside the room, which appears on the windowsill from slanting rain, from condensation during incorrect installation windows, from overwatering flowers, from glass washing.
Now let's imagine where will he go water at horizontal installation window sill. Firstly, The amount of water on the windowsill is minimal under any circumstances. I personally have not heard of floods on windowsills. Secondly, The seam between the window sill and the window frame is always sealed. Third, in order for the water to quickly leave the window sill, a much greater slope is needed, and with a slight slope, water will still accumulate on the window sill.
Yes, installing a window sill with a reverse angle is unacceptable, as this actually creates the possibility of water accumulation. But, again, don’t forget about the sealant. In short, the window sill must be level.
I believe that when, while watering a pot of flowers that stands on the windowsill, and water accidentally spills, it should spill evenly on your window sill. different sides, and not pour on the floor. Also, I believe that, for example, a writing pen should not roll off the windowsill, as well as any round object. Especially considering the fact that some wide window sills used as tables.
Well, in general this is my opinion about the slope of the window sill. Let's move on. If a third - middle row is required, it is done very simply. In the middle of the window sill trim, linings are selected according to height.
Since, in my example, a double-hung window, I use three supports in each row. Accordingly, we display them in the same way.
After all the supports have been selected, you can take our pre-cut window sill (see above) and insert it under the window frame for fitting. At the same time, once again check the perpendicularity of the installation with a square. Next, remove the window sill, wet the first row along the frame and all support points with a sprayer. And we begin the foaming stage.
We apply a strip of foam along the first row of support points along the window frame, so that half of the window sill profile is covered with foam.
If there is a middle support row, then you need to foam it not completely, but only the support points. The second, outermost row is foamed at the end. Next, we insert the window sill so that the right and left starting points of the markings coincide with the edges of the window frame.
We measure the width of the protrusions. If necessary, we adjust these values by slightly extending or deepening the window sill on each side. We make a control measurement with a square or level in the plane of inclination. After that, all that remains is to foam the second support row completely. Advice: if this gap is more than 5 cm, you need to foam in two layers. Apply the first layer 2.3 cm. Wait for it to dry (20 - 30 minutes). Then, foam the second layer to the end. Also, do not forget to foam the gaps where the window sill is cut, and do not forget to put a weight weighing from 1 kg to 10 kg, depending on the width of the gap. Since I have a gap of about 2 cm, a load like the one in the picture (tray with tool) is enough.
And here is what should happen after installing the slopes. Despite the fact that when marking, the protrusions, the so-called ears, were different, now, as can be seen in the photo, these protrusions are the same. At the same time, the angles of dawn of the slopes are also the same.
This is the classic installation of a window sill, which is done by professionals. But anyone can do such an installation with their own hands.
Most main principle The VIP of installing a PVC window sill is that the size of the gap between the base of the platform and the window sill should be 10 - 20 mm. Accordingly, if in a classic installation, this distance is not filled with anything. That is, voids remain, because the installers have neither time nor money, which the client does not want to part with. That VIP installation implies filling this space cement mortar.
One more digression or advice. Very often this filling method is used for large-scale repairs. But builders and finishers, understanding little about the window business, pour the screed under the window sill tightly to the frame or to the window sill profile. And sometimes the foam is picked out right under the window sill profile. So, you can’t do that. The screed should not reach the window block by about 5 cm. There should be foam there.
Further, why don’t window installers make such a screed? That's right, you have to wait for it to dry. And for the money they work for, it is not profitable to wait. In addition, you need to buy the solution. Some craftsmen install the window sill directly on the screed. It's faster that way.
But, if we talk about top level installations - VIP, then, as I said above, you need to fill the screed with a gap of 10 - 20 mm, wait until it rises. Then, foam the area evenly with a snake. The foam layer is about 30 mm. Carefully place the window sill on this layer without moving it. Align with a level or square and press down with a light weight. The supports for this installation method are, of course, plastic. And they are displayed only in the second outer row. In all other places the window sill will have sufficient rigidity. This is achieved due to a small gap, which is filled with mounting foam in the form of a snake.
After the foam has completely dried, its remains under the window sill are cut off and the seam under the window sill is sealed. This operation is done both on a VIP installation and on a classic PVC window sill installation.
Note! Installing a plastic threshold on a balcony has its own technology. The classic threshold setting is not suitable. Read about it
I hope that the reader of my blog will understand not only the principle of DIY installation, but also the principle of the approach from a professional point of view. Payment for the services of a PVC window installer must correspond to the work done!!! And of course, my video.
The final stage of window installation is the installation of the window sill. This process is ridiculously simple, however, it is quite easy to make a mistake. In our instructions, we will show with examples how to properly organize the connection of the window sill to the window frame, carry out the sealing and prevent freezing of the lower zone.
Despite the fact that the products of most manufacturers of additional components for PVC windows are well unified, there are several types of plastic window sills. However, perhaps you will prefer window sills made of natural wood, artificial stone or veneered countertops? We will also consider such options, but remember that often the choice of a particular type of product is dictated not by whim, but by obvious necessity.
For example, consider two types of plastic window sills - with and without an edge at the back. On the one hand, a window sill without an edge allows you to freely vary its depth and even tolerates oblique cuts, which can correct flaws in window installation. However, in this case, it may be necessary to mount it from the outside through a stand profile, but not all windows have it and it is not always convenient to dismantle the external ebb for fastening. Otherwise, plastic window sills are almost identical except for one feature - thickness. The larger it is, the correspondingly higher the strength of the window sill and its greater protrusion above the plane of the wall is allowed.
Plastic window sills are usually sufficient to meet most needs, but it is worth considering the benefits of other materials. Basically, laminated chipboards and artificial stone slabs are used where you need to add a special twist to the color. “Non-plastic” window sills have no other advantages - they are afraid of moisture, dirt and ultraviolet radiation. However, one nuance still remains: if it is necessary to arrange a solid window sill for several windows, as is the case when installing glazing for a bay window, a continuous curvilinear contour can only be created with the help of a window sill-tabletop.
As for the sizes, everything is simple and obvious with them. The profile length must be at least 6 cm more distance between the slopes at the widest part. The depth should provide a protrusion above the wall plane of at least 30 mm, and if there is a radiator under the window, “cover” it with a margin of 5-10 mm.
The opening must be prepared in a certain way for the installation of a window sill, and for each individual installation method, the preparation will have some differences. Let's start with what is the same in all options: we apply a square to the vertical posts, aligning the edge along the lower edge of the frame profile, and draw two horizontal lines on the slopes that limit the hem. You need to make cuts along the lines using an angle grinder and diamond blade to a depth of about 10-15 mm, if available plaster corner at the corner of the slope it should be cut completely. Next, use a chisel or an old chisel to select pockets with a depth of about 30-50 mm in the slopes. More is possible, but it should not be less than 30 mm, otherwise the connection of the side plugs with the angle of repose will be incorrect. If the slopes will be covered with panels, the protrusion of the window sill beyond the slope should correspond to the width of the closing corner profile.
If instead of easy plastic profile a heavy tabletop will be installed, you need to prepare the bottom plane window opening. First, a plaster beacon is installed under the side of the frame, close to the stand profile, on the tubercles of cement mortar. The distance between the edge of the lighthouse and the window frame must exactly correspond to the thickness of the window sill-tabletop. Using cement mortar, a smooth horizontal edge of the opening is drawn along the lighthouse, on which the window sill will rest, internal corner It is advisable to strengthen it with a plaster corner.
Don’t be surprised, but it also happens that a window is installed without a support profile. If in this case a window sill with a thickness of 18 mm or more is installed without a trailing edge, it is necessary to increase the thickness of the bottom foam seam to at least half the thickness of the window sill profile used. Also, in the lower part of the slope, a series of vertical notches are made in the wall, 30 mm wide, 20 mm deep and about 120-150 mm high. Notches must be made in increments not exceeding 80 cm and at least two pieces per window sill.
Unlike common practice, the window sill does not necessarily need to be secured through the frame profile with self-tapping screws. In some cases, this will only cause harm: metal rods serve as excellent cold bridges.
Most correct scheme installation is ridiculously simple: the window sill rests on the stand profile, then incompressible pads are installed under it, for example, mounting wedges, retreating 2/3 of the total depth from the front edge. A small protrusion of the frame above the stand profile allows you to adjust the projection of the window sill above the wall plane, if window frame for some reason it turned out to be deployed. With this installation method, the mounting foam firmly connects the window sill with the opening, while tightly filling the entire space from below.
The window sill without a support profile is fastened using the rear side, which fits tightly into the installation groove in the lower part of the frame. It is only important to clear the foam seam a little and cut off the edge on the sides, otherwise you will have to cut the slopes deeper. Window sills of increased thickness without an installation side have a longitudinal dovetail groove on the back. The lungs go into this groove mounting plates, which are used for preliminary alignment of windows. To correctly install the window sill, supports are paved under its rear part with wedges, then the window sill is laid in place, the plates are bent and secured deep into the notches in the wall, which ensures that the end of the profile is tightly pressed to the frame.
The main trick when installing a window sill is correct formation foam seam underneath. The only exceptions are tabletop window sills, which are attached to the prepared opening plane using liquid nails.
In general, for correct installation a number of conditions must be met:
Then everything happens extremely simply. The entire space between the window sill and the shelf of the opening is filled with polyurethane foam of the appropriate climate regime, with the exception of areas located behind the slope line. You need to blow out the foam under low pressure, using an extension tube to fill the narrowest areas in the back near the frame. After blowing the foam, the window sill should remain loaded until the polymerization of the foam is completed - about 1-1.5 hours.
After the foam has completely hardened, its excess must be cut off. If the foam has been squeezed into the area beyond the slope line, it must be dug out to a depth of at least 20 mm. Under the window, the foam is removed with a chisel or scraper to a depth of about 10 mm. All formed cavities are moistened with a strengthening primer from a spray bottle.
The voids must be filled with cement mortar, into which in small portions Alabaster is added to speed up setting. After the solution has dried, the sealing areas are ground to the general plane of the wall using an abrasive mesh. The gaps between the window sill and the slope must be sealed; this is the main path for cold air to enter. If you subsequently plan to finish the slope plastic panels, the sealing of cracks does not need to be leveled; in this case, sealing can be carried out using polyurethane foam.
If the trimming was done correctly along a single line without gaps, it should be completed on the slopes finishing, paint them, and then fill the gaps with white acrylic caulk. If the edge of the hem is uneven, the sealant is pumped deep into the gap, not reaching the surface by 5-7 mm. The remaining gap is sealed with finishing putty.
A typical consequence of installation errors is the formation of condensation. It can appear both on the windowsill itself and on the glass. Each case has its own reason.
Hypothermia of the window sill occurs due to a violation of the foam seam in the lower zone. The best thing to do in this case is to disassemble the ebb from the outside and scrape out the remaining foam from under the frame. After cleaning, the bottom seam is filled with foam again.
Condensation on glass appears mainly when using single-chamber double-glazed windows with high thermal conductivity. Such windows require a continuous thermal curtain from radiators during the cold season. If the window sill protrudes too much, it will block the flow of hot air and the glass will not warm up properly. The problem can be solved by inserting 2-3 convection sleeves into the window sill, which are also used for pulling cables through the walls of cabinet furniture.
Before installing the window sill to plastic windows, you need to determine the material you will use. Most the best choice- This is an acrylic window sill. Unlike conventional polyvinyl chloride coating, acrylic film is protected from cigarette burns, sand abrasions and other mechanical influences. At the end there is a complete list of types of window sills; let’s focus on the plastic window sill.
It is more difficult to install a window sill with your own hands, but it is also cheaper, and you will gain experience. After the installers complete the work of installing the windows, you can immediately begin attaching the window sills. Tools you will need to complete the job: construction foam, wooden blocks, or plastic inserts, a level, or an angle, an angle grinder, a hammer drill or a hammer.
The first stage is knocking out protrusions in the slope for attaching the window sill. IN PVC windows There are grooves at the bottom where the window sill should fit, but no one foresaw such a slot in the walls. If you have big house, then by shortening the distance of the protrusions you can save an entire window sill.
When you decide on the size of the protrusion (a few cm is enough), outline the place where you plan to make them with a pencil. Next, depending on the material, walk the grinder along the lines drawn on the slopes. If the material is not very strong, then a hammer is enough to knock off the protrusions later, if you have concrete walls, then you will need a hammer drill with a set of chisels.
When you blow out the holes, start cleaning the grooves and the place where the window sill will be installed. Any small pebble can become a major obstacle during installation. After you remove the “large” obstacles, start cleaning the rest of the area - sweep the future location of the window sill with a brush.
Before using foam, it is important not only to clean the area, but also to moisten it - construction foam works in places where there is moisture. We recommend that you use primer for these purposes, just keep in mind that the thickness of the applied layer directly depends on the number of pores in the material. For example, more soil can be applied to aerated concrete than to ordinary concrete- otherwise the place for the window sill will be too wet.
You will need the wooden blocks or plastic inserts that we talked about at the beginning to level the level of the window sill. It should be placed exactly 90 degrees relative to the window. Determine the level of the window sill, and then insert your blanks into the voids between the wall and the object being installed. You can determine the degree either using a level or with your own hands using a corner.
When you're done with your measurements, start blowing with foam. It is very important that the foam is spread around the entire perimeter. Please note that after some time it will increase in size and will need to be cut off. This will need to be done taking into account the fact that putty and plaster will need to be applied under the window sill.
In order to prevent the window sill from rising due to the increasing foam, it is necessary to place a weight on it. An excellent solution would be to install 5-liter bottles of water on the windowsill. Three pieces is enough.
Once installation is complete, seal the joints with sealant.
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