When carrying out renovations, quite often you have to level the walls and ceiling, hide pipes in the bathroom and toilet, hide radiators in the kitchen, make a ceiling with lighting, so installing a plasterboard box is an excellent solution to such problems.
A plasterboard box can hide a sewer riser, level the surface for suspended ceiling, eliminate the curvature of walls and much more.
All work on the manufacture of the structure can be done with your own hands, but you must know the manufacturing technology.
You can make 2 versions of the device from plasterboard: a corner one, which has two edges, and a ceiling or wall one with three edges.
Below are instructions on how to make a box from plasterboard.
Making a corner box from plasterboard with your own hands is not difficult. Basically, the corner option is installed in the toilet and bathroom due to small area premises.
Installation begins with markings. To do this, you need to make marks on the ceiling corresponding to the width of the device, and on the wall - its length.
If the structure is vertical, then the length and width are laid out on the walls. After making the marks, you need to draw lines using a building level.
Now you need to mark the volume of the structure, which is marked as follows: the extreme attachment points of the corner element are located, then perpendiculars are lowered from the lines marking the dimensions of the structure to the end parts of the structure.
If the box is horizontal, then the markings are done on the walls, if it is vertical – on the floor and ceiling.
The next step is to install metal profile, which is attached according to the finished markings.
For fastening, holes are made with a hammer drill and dowels are driven in. It is recommended to fasten the profile on one side of the intended line.
When fastening, the shelves of the two profiles should be located at right angles to each other.
Then the corner part is trimmed and installed.
Installation of this element is carried out as follows: the corner element is inserted into the profiles at the place where they intersect. The corner element is secured with self-tapping screws. Then comes the finishing.
Now you need to make stiffening ribs from the profile, attach one edge to the profile on the wall, and the other to the corner element. The stiffening ribs are secured with ties.
The profile frame is ready, now you need to cover it with plasterboard. It is better to cut the plasterboard sheet so that the structure is made of solid strips.
Therefore, you first need to cut off the material for the sides.
The width of the stripes corresponds to the width of the edge. Then measure the size of the remaining edge and cut the strip so that it extends to the edges of the side edges.
Drywall sheets are also secured with metal screws at a distance of 15–20 cm.
When the installation of the plasterboard box is completed, its finishing begins. It is quite possible to make it yourself.
The coating can be painted, tiled, etc.
It is possible even for a novice builder to assemble a plasterboard box in a toilet, under a bathtub or in another room with your own hands for a ceiling or wall type.
To create ceiling structures, first, markings are made for the plasterboard box on the ceiling.
At the location of the plasterboard structure, two parallel lines are drawn that go to the walls (when installing a ceiling option) or to the floor and ceiling (when installing a wall option).
The distance between the lines corresponds to the width of the structure, and the lines perpendicular to them, which need to be drawn on the walls, correspond to the height of the structure and indicate the attachment points of the corner elements.
Installation of the guide profile and preparation of corner elements is carried out similarly to the corner version.
Now 2 corner elements are made from the profile, which must be positioned in such a way that it is possible to install stiffeners.
Now the frame for the plasterboard box on the ceiling is being strengthened.
Reinforcement of the wall and ceiling frames is carried out in the same way as when installing a corner version, with the only difference being that stiffeners are installed on three sides, at a distance of 60 cm.
The installation of the frame is completed - it is sheathed with plasterboard and its finishing begins.
It is possible to make a plasterboard box on the ceiling with lighting. Installation robots can be made by hand.
A backlit device is made as follows: first you need to make markings for lighting and secure the electrical wires.
They must be mounted in such a way that they do not interfere with the installation of the device.
Then you need to prepare the transverse guides and insert them into the frame. The guide profile is aligned to the wall at a right angle and secured with self-tapping screws. Then the entire structure is secured.
After installing a ceiling device with lighting, the ceiling looks like a multi-level one. The backlit device can be made over the entire ceiling area or as a device in the form of geometric shapes.
When making the box, all wires must be hidden. After this, for lighting it is necessary to make holes, having previously made markings on the drywall.
The material, previously cut into strips, is screwed to the profile according to the markings, then the lighting is carefully inserted into the holes.
After completing the installation of the illuminated ceiling box, the drywall can be puttied, painted or decorated with decorative trim.
The construction of a plasterboard box has several nuances that are recommended to be taken into account when doing the work yourself, so that this design does not cause inconvenience and lasts for many years.
For example, making a box to hide sewer pipe, it is imperative to take into account that the couplings with bends on the pipe, the so-called revisions, cannot be closed without leaving access to them.
For such couplings, a special opening must be left during installation to provide access from the outside. This window is closed with special plastic doors.
Access is also needed to the joints internal sewerage and the central riser, since after some time repairs may be required.
When installing a plasterboard box under the bathtub to cover the water supply or radiator, there must be an opening at the locations of meters, valves, vents and other elements.
To make such an opening, you need to make 4 mm holes larger size door that will cover the hole. This can be done both before and after installing the plasterboard battery box.
If an opening is left for access to the inspection of the sewer riser in the bathroom or toilet, then it must be located on the front side of the structure.
If the hatch is intended for access to valves or other elements of the water supply system, then it can be located on the side.
In the toilet or kitchen, in places where pipelines pass through the structure, the hole must be made larger than the diameter of the pipe.
There should be a gap left that can be filled with polyethylene foam.
Thus, installing the box will allow you to hide communications in the bathroom and toilet, level walls and corners, hide radiators in the kitchen, level the ceiling, and also make the ceiling illuminated.
All this can be done quickly, inexpensively and for many years.
After reading the article, you learned how to make a drywall box yourself.
Pipes in rooms spoil appearance, so it is recommended to hide them. There are plenty of ways to make them invisible, for example, simply covering them with curtains. But, as practice shows, most often craftsmen use boxes made of different materials, of which the most popular is gypsum board. This design is simple, so building a plasterboard box with your own hands is not a problem. In this way they hide both vertically installed pipes, and horizontally. Mounting technology same. Let's look at it using the vertical option as an example.
The location of the pipes may vary. For example, they can stand in the corner of the room, and then the structure of the gypsum plasterboard box will be in the form of a structure of two walls. If it stands alone near a wall, it will have three walls. Let's consider this option, it will answer the main question, how to make a box from plasterboard?
Marking
This is the most important stage. The appearance of the box will depend on it.
Do-it-yourself marking of the frame of the plasterboard box is completed. You can move on to the structure of the frame itself.
First of all, the base from the guide profile is assembled on the ceiling. The sections, cut to the size of the rectangular contour, are installed exactly along the lines and secured with dowels.
Then two guides are installed along the lines marked on the walls. After which the floor contour is assembled in the form of a rectangle. All elements are fastened with dowels in increments of 40-50 cm.
The next stage is the installation of two corner posts. For this, either rack profiles or ceiling profiles are used. Transverse elements are cut out of them (respectively).
Please note that the installation of the crossbar is associated with two different profiles: the guide and, for example, the ceiling. The crossbar will fit into the guide end-on, as is usually the case. Here it will be fastened with self-tapping screws. But connect the ceiling profile to the ceiling in perpendicular planes in the usual way will not work.
Therefore, one edge of the cross member is modified. That is, the profile flanges are cut to the width of the rack, and the horizontal flange is cut to a cone. The result is an element with a horizontal pointed shelf, which is called a tongue. So this tongue is placed on the shelf of the vertical stand and secured with self-tapping screws.
Crossbars are installed horizontally along the entire height of the sides of the structure every 40 or 50 or 60 cm. front side leave room for a hatch through which the pipe system can subsequently be serviced.
Covering a box with plasterboard with your own hands is a very simple matter. Measure the dimensions of the frame, transfer them to a plasterboard sheet, and cut out the strips with a sharp knife.
Now install the strips at their destination, fasten them to the frame with self-tapping screws. After which you need to finish the box yourself. To do this, putty and tape are used to seal the joints. Apply putty to the joint, lay down the tape and apply a layer of putty again.
A strip of the appropriate size is cut out under the inspection hatch. The hatch can be attached to the frame with self-tapping screws or liquid nails.
Backlight
If there is a need to somehow decorate the box with your own hands, then original version- make lighting.
This option for constructing a plasterboard box is more complex, but it looks great. In order to do round design, it is necessary to make a rounded frame.
To do this, it is necessary to install not a rectangular contour, but a semicircular one from the profiles on the ceiling and floor. You can do it like this. Apply markings, measure the length of the semicircle, transfer it to the profile, and cut it off. Now this piece is cut every 7-10 cm along one rack and one shelf. Along the second rack the profile is bent until a figure is obtained.
Why shelf and racks? Any profile is the letter “P”, its legs are racks, top bar- shelf. The fastening is carried out by the shelf to the supporting structure, and other frame elements are attached to the racks.
Both finished elements must be attached to the floor and ceiling. Then connect them with vertical posts made of ceiling profile. Here, many may have a question, how many racks are needed for the frame for a plasterboard box (made with your own hands) to meet the standard? It all depends on the size of the structure, the minimum should be four.
It is not difficult to make a rounded shape for drywall. To do this, the sheet must be moistened on both sides and wait until it is saturated with moisture. You can wet it with a roller. Some craftsmen use a needle roller, believing that in this way they can saturate the sheet faster, because water will penetrate into the gypsum layer through the holes made by the needles.
Then you apply the strip to the frame, secure it on one side vertically with self-tapping screws and slowly bend it to the shape of the frame. In this case, fastening must be done every 30-40 cm. Once the drywall is dry, it will tightly frame the metal frame.
Widely used in interior design and decoration in Lately received gypsum board sheets (chipboard). This material is very popular, but making a box from chipboard is much more difficult than simple wall cladding. Very often, craftsmen are faced with difficulties in installing a plasterboard box during the work process. We will try to tell you about them in this article.
The difficulty of making a box from chipboard is primarily due to the weight and fragility of this material. Drywall sheets cannot be independent structural elements, unlike laminate, wood or plastic. The box usually consists of volumetric modules, where each model is a rigid and elastic frame, which is covered with plasterboard, and the box is used as load-bearing element- it is forbidden.
The frame for drywall must be multi-level to withstand the load. The hanging corner of the box is most often visible, and this aggravates the requirements for its stability and durability. However, a crack in the sheathing can also spread from the joint of the slabs if it is not properly sealed, see below. In addition, if the box is horizontal wall or ceiling, its weight is applied to a shoulder several times greater than that of the wall sheathing. Number of points for attaching the frame to base surface also several times less than that of the casing, and load bearing capacity building materials not infinite. Finally, the frame itself is not a single-level sheathing, but a rather complex spatial structure to ensure optimal ratio the mechanical parameters of which are more difficult than those of a “flat” lattice, “stuck” to a strong, stable support. If the reliability of the sheathing is approx. 80% depends on the supporting surface, then in the case of a box the relationship is the opposite: its frame must be just as strong on its own, without being attached to anything.
A plasterboard box serves an independent element interior, and also, as a rule, performs certain convenient functions. First of all, they create a box to hide engineering Communication and improve places common use. The advantage of this material is that any finish fits very well on it. Of course, this is only relevant if the box itself is made correctly.
If you are making a box under suspended ceiling, then it must be reinforced, since it will be under load. Design in this case is a secondary matter, and to properly create a box on the ceiling, it is best to contact a craftsman who already has experience working with drywall. But if you decide to do it yourself, then watch a simple video instruction on how to properly make a box on the ceiling.
And if you need a decorative box, then you don’t need much strength from it. But to master the creation of decorative boxes you need to master the basics, which can be seen in this video:
Let's return to the plasterboard boxes. utilitarian purpose. The second most popular type is a box covering a heating radiator. Its design is simple and easy to implement for beginners; the design is clearly tied to the interior (that is, it does not have an independent decorative meaning), and therefore is also not complicated and forgives quite significant flaws. The main thing in in this case– ensure air convection from the battery. We will return to battery boxes later, but for now, see a video review of their possible designs:
However, the most unassuming technical quality work and design, view of the gypsum plasterboard box in Fig. not shown precisely because of its simplicity. This is a simple rectangular ceiling box that encloses a niche with a curtain rod. It is with a plasterboard box for curtains that you need to start, if you have never dealt with gypsum boards before. This will give you the opportunity to get a feel for the material and at the same time, without significant difficulties, master the techniques of working on the ceiling, see video:
The frame for drywall can be made not only from aluminum, but also from durable wood, which has already withstood shrinkage. But assembling a box from wood is much more expensive than from metal, so boxes, as a rule, are assembled exclusively from thin-walled metal profiles. A typical range of steel profiles under chipboard is shown in the figure below:
In addition to types and sizes, the frame can be divided into:
During the overhaul In the apartment, almost everyone is faced with one small but very unpleasant situation. Some of the pipes and communications in the bathroom and kitchen cannot be moved or redone. As a result, a situation is possible when, against the backdrop of beautiful finishing materials an ancient pipe or sewer riser will “show off”, which will spoil any idea of the transformation of the apartment. To avoid this, there is one extremely simple option that is accessible to everyone. You should hide nondescript pipes in a neat box. How to make a box from plasterboard will be discussed further.
You can choose other materials to implement the box, such as: plastic, chipboard, plywood, etc. However, most suitable material there is still drywall left. It is the easiest to process. The resulting surface of the box can be easily finished using ceramic tiles, wallpaper or paint. Simply put, only drywall will not limit you in any way in the choice of finishing methods and, moreover, will create a strong and reliable box that will last a very long time. It’s easy and simple to build a plasterboard box with your own hands, you just need to consider a few important nuances in the construction of such an interior element.
You will need the following tool:
The list of materials naturally includes a sheet of drywall. One is enough standard sheet 2500*1200 mm with a thickness of 9 or 12.5 mm. It's best to choose moisture resistant drywall, taking into account the fact that water pipes or a sewer riser will be sheathed, which tend to be covered at least a little with perspiration, so that the humidity will be significant. This is all the more reasoned if a plasterboard box is installed in the bathroom, where the humidity is already high.
The frame for the box can be made either from wooden blocks 40*40 or 50*50 mm, or from a galvanized metal profile specially designed for working with drywall. If wood will be used, it must be done in advance, which will protect the wood from rotting and destruction. in this regard, it is more practical, since it does not require mandatory training, and it is somewhat easier to use.
Scheme of constructing a box for pipes based on a metal profile.
From a wide variety of profiles, you will need a UD guide profile and a CD profile to form the frame itself.
To secure the frame elements, it is best to use dowels and hammer-in European screws for fastening to the wall and flea screws with a drill tip for connecting the profiles to each other. The wood will require hardened self-tapping screws, twice the length of the timber used. In any case, hardened self-tapping screws with a piercing tip of size 35-45 mm are used to secure sheets of drywall.
First you need to make markings on the floor. The line should indicate the contour along which the guide profile or support bars will be installed. It should be taken into account that plasterboard will be sewn on top of the frame, so the resulting dimensions of the box will differ from the dimensions of the markings by the thickness of the sheet used. Using a construction angle, the perpendicularity of the lines in relation to the walls and each other is checked.
The thickness and width of the box is chosen such that the plasterboard sheathing does not adjoin the pipes in any place, and there is a gap of at least 3-5 cm on all sides. The width should also be chosen taking into account subsequent finishing. If subsequently the box will also be lined with ceramic tiles, then you should select the width of the box equal to the whole number of the widths of the tile itself in order to avoid the need for trimming.
The markings on the floor are ready. A plumb line is used to transfer the markings to the ceiling. If necessary, markings on the wall are made using a stretched thread between the corresponding points on the floor and ceiling.
The profiles or bars located near the wall stop first. After this, one or two racks are fixed, spaced from the walls and forming the front, protruding edge of the box. If the width of the box exceeds 25 cm or the height of the box is more than 1.5 m, jumpers should be installed between the support posts. Jumpers are installed at a distance of no more than 1 m from each other.
During installation, if used wooden beam, the cut areas should be further processed. It is best to use a special construction mastic for wood. In addition to protecting the wood, this will provide greater stability and sound insulation so that the box does not creak during thermal deformations.
It is advisable to cut the sheet of material in such a way that the box consists of single strips rather than pieces. First of all, the strips for the side edges of the box are cut off. Their width should be equal to the width of the frame itself and not protrude beyond the border of the support posts. Only after this can you accurately measure the size of the remaining edge and cut the corresponding strip of drywall so that it fits the edges of the side strips. The sheets are secured with self-tapping screws 35-45 mm every 15-25 mm to the main frame posts. You don’t have to reinforce the sheets in addition to the jumpers between the posts. At such a small width of the structure this will not play any role.
After the sheets are secured, you can begin to putty and form the corners of both the box itself and in the places where it adjoins the walls. For this, a special metal or plastic perforated corner is used. It is fixed on a thin layer of starting putty. After this you can apply a layer finishing putty or prepare the surface for laying ceramic tiles. Actually, at this point we can consider the work on constructing the plasterboard box completed.
There are just a number of points and mandatory conditions regarding the process of covering the frame of the box with plasterboard. This is due to the fact that a plasterboard box is a non-demountable structure, and tightly sewing up elements such as a sewer riser or water supply pipes is fraught.
Essentially, the box is simple design from a frame and plasterboard sheets attached to it. However, do not forget about the features of those pipes and communications that are to be sheathed. When making a pipe box, it is necessary to take into account not only the aesthetics of the result, but also practical aspects.
In many apartments sewer riser There are so-called revisions. These are special couplings on a pipe with an outlet or hole that is closed with a lid. An inspection is needed to clear the blockages. Under no circumstances should such areas be tightly sewn up with a box. You should carefully mark the area and leave a window for unhindered access to the audit from the outside. You can close the window using special plastic doors, which are sold in hardware stores.
In addition to the inspection, access to the points of connection and convergence of the internal sewage system into the central riser should be provided. It may be necessary to replace some elements over time or remove blockages in the internal pipes.
Doors must be formed in the technological holes in the box in those places where the pipes have such elements as: water flow meters, valves and compensators, check valves and gearboxes.
To form these openings, holes should be formed in the plasterboard sheets that are 1-3 mm larger than the dimensions of the door frame, which will subsequently be inserted there. You can do this in advance in a strip of drywall before attaching it to the frame. You can also just mark the installation position of the door in advance and, after fixing the drywall to the frame, begin cutting out the hole.
If the door is installed to access the sewer inspection in the toilet or bathroom, the hole for it is located on the front edge of the box, which faces the entrance. This mandatory requirement and you shouldn’t even try to move the door somewhere more secluded.
If the door is only for access to valves and other equipment on water pipes, then it is quite acceptable to place it on the side edge of the box. This way it will be less noticeable. It is only important that the opportunity remains quick access to technological units if necessary.
In the home, many people are faced with a situation where it is necessary to hide certain functional elements: pipes, communications, hoods, etc. In order to hide these visually unpresentable parts, a plasterboard box is used. Today, this material is used more often than others due to its following advantages:
If you wish, you can make a box from plasterboard with your own hands. Just a few nuances will help you cope with this.
The production of a plasterboard box is carried out based on its purpose and the chosen design of the room decorations.
First you need to decide on the type of material, since not all plasterboard sheets are suitable in this situation. Depending on the purpose and installation location, the following drywall options are used:
Note! Thickness plasterboard sheets is also determined by the purpose of the box. For walls, a thickness of 12.5 mm is best, and for arches and design elements - 6-9 mm. For the ceiling, sheets 9 mm thick should not be used, because they may not be able to withstand the required level of load.
Also, when determining the design of a gypsum plaster box, its purpose should be taken into account:
Based on the purpose, the complexity of the selected design is determined and calculations are carried out necessary materials to collect it. This is very important, especially if the assembly will be done by hand.
Making boxes from plasterboard requires a certain set of tools, which includes:
Tools
Also, to make a plasterboard box with your own hands you will need the following materials:
A common question is “How to make a box from plasterboard?” To do this, you need very little - the necessary tools and materials, plus knowledge of installation technology.
Installation requires appropriate preparation. This stage involves the following actions:
Marking
Finished box frame
Note! When using wooden blocks instead of a profile, the cut points must be additionally treated with a special mastic made for working with wood. This will add stability to the structure and will also significantly increase sound insulation.
Thanks to this, the box will not creak due to possible thermal deformations of the structure.
Once everything has been installed, you can begin attaching the plasterboard sheets. To do this you need to do the following:
Attaching sheets to the frame
Once all the plasterboard sheets have been installed, you can begin puttying work. Using putty, you should first form the corners of the box in the places where it adjoins the wall. A perforated plastic corner. Its fastening is carried out with starting putty.
After this we apply finishing layer putty on the surface of the structure. Then, after drying, you can begin to prepare the surface for final finishing work.
Adhering to all technology installation work, can be assembled easily and very quickly plasterboard box any design. He will become like effective method hiding unwanted elements will bring novelty and originality to your interior.
