Caring for strawberries in summer should be carried out systematically. The future strawberry harvest greatly depends on this. You need to pay attention to spots on strawberries, also mites on strawberries can do a lot of harm and you also need to constantly fight them.
Caring for strawberries in August
Without knowing how to care for strawberries in August, you risk losing your harvest next year. The last month of summer is often dry and hot. Therefore, it is important to water at least 2 times a week. The plants themselves “signal” the need for watering - the bushes droop and the foliage dries out.
You can water strawberries either by sprinkling or at the root - the sun is no longer so aggressive, and there will be no burn on the leaves
If the leaves continue to dry out, become stained, or weaken, they should be carefully cut off and only 3-4 healthy leaves should be left to improve the health of the “green mass.” The same goes for mustaches, which can be removed if they are still growing or if you forgot to do so in July.
Plants can be fed with a weak solution of mullein (1:10) or bird droppings (1:20) and loosen the soil. One 10 liter bucket should be enough for 10-12 bushes. You can form earthen “sides” up to 15 cm high around the beds and fill them to the top with water.
And it is also recommended in August plant new strawberry bushes Location on. It is best to do this in the evening or on a cloudy day. The seedlings must have three true leaves and a developed root system. It is planted in a previously prepared wet hole.
Autumn strawberry care differs slightly from summer activities. However, they should not be neglected either.
Some varieties of strawberries continue to form flowers even in September. The berries on them will not ripen before the onset of cold weather, so such “idle” inflorescences should be picked off. The same goes for strawberry mustaches.
Even if the forecasts promise mild winter, feed the bushes. Ammophos is perfect for this (the contents are added at the rate of 30 g per 1 sq.m.). For “warming”, rotted chicken manure, diluted in water in a ratio of 1:15, is also added. 1-1.5 liters of the composition are poured under each bush. Sometimes cow manure is also used, diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10 with the addition of 1 cup of ash. Strawberries are watered generously with the resulting mixture at the rate of 1.5-2 liters per bush.
For the last time before winter, inspect the strawberry bushes and discard diseased and affected specimens, as well as remove excess tendrils and withered leaves. Don't throw away "bad" plants, but put them in the compost pile.
Caring for strawberries open ground involves not only the removal of tendrils and inflorescences, but also leaves. However, there is no need to “expose” the plant completely, since by tearing off healthy leaves, you reduce the likelihood of the formation of peduncles and fruits, reduce the yield and doom the strawberries to difficulties during the wintering period. First of all, remove dry and withered leaves affected by strawberry mites. If the fruit-bearing plant is almost entirely affected, then it is easier to cut it off with pruners just above the growth point and burn the remains.
If you need seedlings for propagation, then you should not remove the whiskers, you need to give them the opportunity to take root and grow a strong rosette
After pruning, loosen the soil and water it. Treat the bushes with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and sprinkle with ash. To provide good growth buds, feed the strawberries with universal fertilizer at the rate of 10 g per 10 liters of water. Ammonium nitrate and nitrogen fertilizers(use according to instructions).
Towards the end of September, strawberry bushes can be covered with straw to protect them from upcoming frosts. Place freshly cut grass between the rows - it will become the first spring fertilizer.
After the above work on autumn strawberry care, dig up the rows, hill up and feed the bushes with fertilizer. You can use manure (2-4 kg per 1 sq.m.), chicken droppings (1 kg per 10 liters of water) or wood ash (100 g per 1 sq.m.). In this case, manure is applied so that the fertilizer does not touch the strawberry leaves: to avoid burns to the plant. On the contrary, ash is sprayed not only under the roots, but also on the leaves.
Suitable as a mineral supplement complex fertilizer(2 tablespoons of nitroammophoska per 10 liters of water).
From mid-September, start caring for fruit-bearing bushes. Loosen the soil to hide root system and protect her from the cold. As a rule, at this time the plants are covered with a “blanket” of cut green manure or the soil is mulched with straw, hay, fallen leaves and mowed weeds. Remove remaining flower stalks so that they do not weaken the plants, and cut off any withered leaves after the first frost.
Final stage autumn care for garden strawberries - this is insulation. 2 days after treatment and feeding, cover the bushes with straw, spruce paws or fallen leaves. This will not only protect your strawberries from winter frosts, but will also serve as an additional source of organic substances.
Leaves by season
Leaves garden strawberries are updated three times a year: in spring, summer and autumn. They work actively from 40 to 80 days. Those that grow in the spring feed the bushes from April to June inclusive, and then, as they grow old, they gradually die off. After fruiting, spring ones are replaced by summer ones.
The first ones are important for fruiting of the current year, the second ones are important for planting flower buds and savings nutrients for the future. Then the so-called autumn leaves that go into winter. With good and stable snow cover, most of them remain until spring. Each gardener must decide for himself whether to mow old leaves or not. Much depends on the condition of the beds and how much time you are willing to devote to caring for strawberries.
I mow them down because I think they carry a lot of infection. But not at the end of summer, but right away
after harvest. Timely removal of leaves from the plantation (before spores fly) significantly reduces the damage from diseases and also prevents re-infection. It’s also important for me that this technique greatly suppresses mustache growth. I don’t mow the leaves only on strawberry beds in the first year of use.
The procedure itself does not take much time: we take a benzoko-su and mow the bed at a height of 5-7 cm. In this case, the old leaves are almost completely removed and neither the horns nor the growing points are damaged.
I usually send the mown mass to the compost. I water the strawberry beds well and feed them with a solution chicken manure(1:15). Strawberries are good
reacts to it and immediately begins to actively recover. For feeding, you can use any complex fertilizers (15-20 g/sq.m), it is better if they contain microelements.
No bare roots!
A good technique is hilling strawberry bushes, especially from the 3rd year of life. I also do it after mowing the leaves, combining it with loosening the soil after watering and liquid fertilizing. At the same time, I make sure that the heart is not covered with earth.
At the end of August, I pour a 3-4 cm layer of mulch around each bush. I use leaf humus for this. It serves not only as fertilizer, but also as insulation for the winter, and in the spring it prevents the roots from being exposed.
Strawberry drones - out!
Weed varieties are often found in strawberry plantings.
They either do not produce a harvest at all, or they produce low - small and non-marketable berries. Such bushes, not burdened with a harvest, devote all their strength to reproduction. Like weeds they choke large-fruited variety. Therefore, it is important to notice the appearance of these weeds in time and destroy them.
On a note
Removing strawberry leaves is indicated for early and mid-season varieties. It is not advisable to mow the leaves of late ones; they may not have time to grow them before frost, which will significantly reduce the harvest next year. It is also not used for remontant and neutral-day varieties of strawberries, which will have a second fruiting in the fall, lasting until late autumn.
Practical advice
Do not leave overripe or damaged berries on the beds. Usually they are the source of contamination of plantings by seedlings.
How often to renew a strawberry plantation
I use fruit-bearing strawberry bushes for no more than three years, not counting the year of planting. I usually update my plantation no later than the second half of August. Young rosettes planted at this time have time to form not only well-developed roots and leaves before winter, but also in conditions short day lay flower buds.
I plant strawberries in the garden bed in one line. In the first year of growing on bushes, I remove all the whiskers except one or two. In the second year I repeat the same thing. I direct young sockets to free places. The most productive bushes grow from these self-rooted ones. The result is long ribbons of strawberries. If I don’t plan to replace varieties, then I use the rosettes of the second year to create new beds. If there is another planting material I remove all the formed mustache after harvesting the second harvest. In the 3rd and 4th year of cultivation, I remove all the whiskers.
Themselves with a mustache!
To prevent my favorite strawberry varieties from degenerating, during fruiting I identify the most productive bushes, and then I take the mustache for planting a future plantation only from these “mothers”. I separate the rosettes immediately after rooting and plant them in a separate bed. Those that were kept for 10-12 hours in a zircon solution (1 ml per 2 liters of water) before planting are very well accepted.
Note
The most powerful rosettes in the garden usually come from bushes that are lightly loaded with berries. In those that bear fruit abundantly, they grow more modestly. Therefore, to obtain high-quality seedlings, it is better to plant queen cells in a separate bed and remove their flower stalks. Or take sockets only from the intended copies.
Strawberry transparent mite is the most dangerous pest strawberries Most often it damages leaves, especially young ones.
As a result, they curl and acquire a yellowish-oily tint, the flower stalks become dwarf, and the berries become small. The more pests, the uglier the bushes. Warm and humid weather promotes tick reproduction.
It is good to use an infusion against strawberry mites onion peel: 200 g pour 10 l warm water and leave for 4-5 days, after which strain the infusion and use for spraying.
You can prepare an infusion from the onion itself: chop 100 g of onions, place in a tightly sealed container, add 10 liters of water and infuse for 6-7 hours.
Another reliable method: weed the affected plantation, removing excess tendrils and diseased leaves (they need to be removed from the plants along with the petioles; it is at the base of the leaf petioles that adult female mites overwinter), then generously sprinkle the bushes with an infusion of crushed garlic 0.5 kg pour 3 l of water, use 300 g of extract per watering can.
After harvesting, chemical treatments are also carried out. After mowing the leaves, the plantation is sprayed with one of the preparations: Fufanon, Kemifos, Fitoverm.
You can finally get rid of the pest by planting beds in a new place. Before planting, all seedlings (having previously washed the roots from the soil and tied them into bunches) are immersed in a container of water heated to 45’C.
Keep in it for 13-15 minutes, after which the sockets are immediately cooled in cold water.
The first two weeks the strawberry plantings will look ugly, but then they will become noticeably brighter.
N. SOLONOVICH, scientist agronomist
I have come across different opinions about whether it is necessary to cut off the tendrils and leaves of garden strawberries after they have fruited. Please advise what to do?
D. Dymova Lipetsk region
The post-harvest period requires special attention, since it is very important in the life of strawberries. At this time, the growth of leaves, horns, roots resumes, flower buds are laid, i.e. next year's harvest is being formed. Therefore, timely and high-quality care of plants is now necessary (weeding, fertilizing, watering, removing tendrils, loosening the soil, controlling pests and pathogens).
When the strawberry crop is harvested, it is best to remove the tendrils from the bushes so that they do not deplete the mother plant and do not interfere with the formation of flower buds. However, the tendrils with rosettes with which you are going to propagate the variety must be left, and remember that the first and second rosettes located closest to the mother plant are considered the strongest.
Whether to remove leaves along with the tendrils is a controversial question.
In the southern regions, removing leaves immediately after harvesting berries is an agrotechnical technique that increases productivity. This is due to the fact that in the south the post-harvest period is long and favorable for plant development.
If you trim the leaves before July 15 and feed and water the plants well, leaves and roots will begin to actively form and flower buds will begin to form. By autumn, such plants will develop strong above-ground and root systems, which will have a positive effect on next year’s harvest.
In the northern regions, mowing strawberry leaves during this period gives negative results, since the plants do not have time to prepare well for next year’s harvest. So in middle lane This technique should be carried out only if the plants are severely damaged by the strawberry mite.
Then mow and burn the leaves as quickly as possible, immediately after picking the berries. If the strawberries are not damaged by the mite, then the leaves should not be removed after harvesting in the central regions of the non-chernozem zone, otherwise the plants will not have time to develop sufficient leaf apparatus and lay flower buds before the onset of cold weather.
But by autumn, in the old leaves and stems of strawberries, a large amount of soluble sugars and starch accumulates, thanks to which the plants successfully form flower buds, winter well and produce a high yield the following year.
L. PODLESNAYA, agronomist
Strawberry Embroidery Fruit Counted Cross Stitch Kits DMC 14ct 11ct Printed…
759.51 rub.
Free shipping★★ ★★ ★★ ★★ ★★ (0.00) | Orders (0)
Pruning strawberries after fruiting and harvesting is one of the mandatory activities, the implementation of which not only provides an impressive (30 to 40%) increase in the yield of this crop next year, but also improves appearance and taste qualities of berries.
Competent and high-quality processing of plantings guarantees the production of especially large, juicy and sweet fruits.
Pruning strawberries helps:
Pruning strawberry bushes after harvest can be:
It is better to avoid completely removing leaves from strawberry bushes, since total pruning contributes to the rapid depletion of plants, which spend all their energy not on laying fruit buds for the future harvest and storing nutrients, but on increasing green mass.
It is advisable to completely mow the leaves only if the strawberry plantings have been severely damaged by insect pests or fungal infections.
During partial pruning after harvesting, you must first remove all (including healthy) leaves lying on the ground. After this, having carefully examined the bush, remove old, dried and diseased (speckled with spots, specks and dots) leaves of the upper tiers.
It is better to leave young and healthy leaves. You shouldn’t touch this year’s bushes either: they need to get stronger and gain strength.
Cut leaves that are infected with disease and are likely to contain insect pests should be burned immediately. They are not suitable for composting or using as mulching material.
If the gardener does not plan to start propagating strawberries, throughout the entire growing season he must remove its creeping shoots (whiskers), cutting them as close to the middle of the leaf rosette as possible.
Pruning strawberries after harvest requires conscious action, since thoughtless removal of leaves can harm the plants:
Any pruning of green mass greatly injures and weakens the strawberry, but there is a period during which its bushes are able to quickly recover, painlessly enduring the removal of almost the entire above-ground part.
This period begins 7-10 days after the cessation of fruiting (usually at the end of July). The optimal timing for pruning strawberries in regions where snow cover occurs in early or mid-November expires by mid-August.
It was by this time that gardeners in the Moscow region, the Urals, the northwestern and central parts of Russia, Siberia, Far East and Altai, it is necessary to complete the processing of strawberry beds. Pruning of strawberries is somewhat delayed (until high-quality planting material is obtained) only if the mustache for its propagation is supposed to be taken from a fruit-bearing plantation.
Such strict deadlines are explained by the fact that strawberries need at least 2-3 months of active growing season to grow new leaf apparatus and prepare for winter, since it is the leaves that provide the process of photosynthesis, which affects the development of the root system, annual horns and the formation of fruit buds.
If for some reason the optimal timing for pruning the berry tree has been missed, it is carried out in a gentle manner, which involves removing only the lower and affected (covered with white coating, spots and uncharacteristic redness) leaves.
The method of pruning strawberries after harvesting is extremely simple: grasping the bush with one hand, with a sharply sharpened tool, cut off its entire above-ground part (including leaves, unnecessary tendrils and dead peduncles).
As a result, cuttings of leaf petioles sticking out above the ground remain on the ridge (their height - in order to avoid damage to the growth buds in the center of annual horns and hearts of strawberry bushes - should be at least 8 cm) and young leaves that have barely appeared.
Drastic pruning of all foliage is unacceptable, since the bushes that have not had time to grow green mass will go into winter weakened and, unable to withstand the cold, will simply freeze out.
The cut leaves are carefully combed out using a rake.
From the quality of bush processing and compliance optimal timing Their pruning depends on the fertility of the strawberry plantation in the coming season.
Caring for Victoria during the period after fruiting includes:
Mulching the soil is an extremely useful manipulation that promotes:
Suitable mulch material for planting strawberries is:
As a mulching material, you can use spunbond (preferably black, which prevents the growth of weeds), covering it raised beds, intended for new plantings of strawberries.
It is advisable to subject the fruiting strawberry bushes to chemical treatment, designed to destroy pests and combat all kinds of diseases, since during the fruiting period the possibility of its implementation was absolutely excluded.
Before you begin chemical treatment of strawberry bushes, you need to rid them of diseased, old, dry and pest-damaged leaves:
In order to prevent the development of diseases, strawberry plantings must be regularly inspected, immediately removing diseased leaves and getting rid of diseased plants, using a weak solution of potassium permanganate to water the soil in the garden bed.
Towards the end of the fruiting period, weakened strawberry bushes, which have devoted all their strength to the fruits of the new harvest, are especially in need of fertilizing. Only with their help will plants be able to fully recover and lay a sufficient number of flower buds.
After harvest experienced gardeners feed strawberries at least three times:
Fertilizers can be organic or mineral.
The most popular mineral supplements:
Gardeners should be aware that to feed strawberries they cannot use fertilizers that contain chlorine, which is harmful to this crop.
The most popular organic fertilizers used for feeding strawberries include:
When fertilizing strawberry beds, you should remember not to overfeed it. Otherwise, it will begin to “fatten”, actively increasing the green mass and refusing to lay flower buds. Experienced gardeners say that underfeeding strawberries is better than overfeeding them.
Ph.D., Art. scientific co-workers Federal Scientific Center for Horticulture named after I.V. Michurina, scientific secretary of the Academy of Non-Traditional and Rare Plants, member of the All-Russian Society of Genetics and Breeders of the Russian Federation
Many people think that once they have harvested the strawberry beds, they can relax until spring. However, in fact, there is a big mistake here, because as soon as the garden strawberry begins to bear fruit and gives off its last berries, it immediately gets to work and begins laying down next year’s harvest.
You should not put off the fight for the future harvest; you should start it immediately after harvesting the berries and continue until the strawberry bushes are covered with a thick layer of snow.
The first thing you need to do is remove all the old mulch layer that was on the beds, this could be straw or sawdust. Considering that diseases and pests could easily have settled there during the season, the mulch must be removed and destroyed outside the site.
Next important stage- this is the fight against weeds, and it is better - immediately after watering or rain, when the weeds are easily weeded out by hand.
Another stage is loosening the soil; it normalizes both air and water balance plants. However, it must be done carefully so that the fragile root system of strawberries is not injured. At the same time, you can carry out hilling of plants. It is advisable to hill up strawberries when they are loose, moist and nutritious soil, in order for additional roots to form. But it is important to avoid dusting the “heart” of the plant.
After this, take a rake with thin and sparse teeth, clean out all the old leaves on the plants and burn them outside the site, because overwintering stages of pests and diseases can accumulate there.
Do not forget about periodic watering of the strawberry beds; it should be done as the soil dries out.
Strawberry plants also need fertilizing, and, of course, treatments against pests and diseases.
Let's take a closer look and start with removing leaves and tendrils, as well as a diagram for pruning strawberries.
You should definitely know that the renewal of leaf blades in garden strawberries usually occurs three times during the growing season: in spring time, in summer and autumn. Scientists have found that one strawberry leaf blade lives for about two months, then it ages, dries out and either falls off or remains hanging on the plant.
The most important thing for strawberry plants is the spring regrowth of leaves; this is the key to successful fruiting. As soon as the harvest is over, the next stage of the formation of leaf blades begins, which is associated with the laying of flower buds and the storage of nutrients from next year’s harvest. Foliage formed in autumn period time, serves mostly for the complete overwintering of garden strawberry plants.
How do you know when leaves need to be removed? Usually, various kinds of spots form on them; they can be whitish, scarlet or red. During the process of natural dying, strawberry leaves absorb a lot of nutrients from the plant and can even cause its depletion. In this regard, approximately 20 days after fruiting has completed, the old leaves must be removed - you can comb them off, you can cut them out.
During this same period, it is quite possible to remove the mustache, unless, of course, they are needed to start a future young plantation.
Removing foliage will not only slow down the flow of nutrients from the plant to nowhere, but will also rid the bushes of possible pests and diseases that can accumulate on the foliage.
Naturally, all strawberry foliage removed in one way or another must be removed from the site.
If the strawberry plantations are such that there is no way to manually remove old leaves, you can use mowers and trimmers, the main thing is that the mowing height is 5-7 cm, so as not to damage the growing point, the so-called “ heart" of the plant.
Remember that it is appropriate to mow or otherwise remove old foliage if the bushes are more than 2 years old, but on young plants it is permissible to cut out either diseased or dried leaves. After removing the leaves, the soil under the plants must be carefully loosened and a bucket of water poured for each square meter.
A very often asked question is whether garden strawberries, which have completely finished bearing fruit, need watering. We answer - of course, it is necessary, during this period the next year's harvest is laid and the soil must be slightly wet. After fruiting ends, strawberry plants begin to lay generative buds, develop a root system, and so on. The frequency of watering should be at least once a week, and it is better to water in the evening at the root, but not by sprinkling. After watering, be sure to loosen the soil to maintain normal air and water exchange and prevent the formation of a crust on the soil surface. It’s great if after watering you have the opportunity to mulch the soil; for this you can use a 2 cm layer of humus.
Speaking of mulching, it allows you to make the soil looser, prevents the formation of a soil crust, inhibits the growth of weeds, and if humus is used as mulch, it will serve as additional nutrition and improve soil fertility.
Not only humus can be used as mulch; sawdust, straw, dry grass, compost and even pine needles are suitable here.
With the end of fruiting, the plants are as weakened as possible, because they have devoted all their strength to the formation of berries, so feeding is necessary, and not one-time, they need to be done three times.
In addition, the crop responds very well to ammophos fertilizer. Consumption rate - up to 30 grams per 1 m 2. Ammophoska should simply be scattered over the surface of the soil, having first dug it up and moistened it, and then sprinkle it with a little soil.
It is also permissible to water the plants with ammophoska solution, 20 g per 1 m2 of beds, during the first feeding.
Nitrophoska and nitroammofoska give good results for the second feeding; you only need a tablespoon of it per 1 m2.
Is it worth fighting pests and diseases, since the harvest has already been harvested? Of course it's worth it. After removing old foliage, the plants need to be sprayed with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate.
If there is a weevil on strawberry plants, you need to treat with the drug “Taran” in the evening and strictly following the instructions on the package. This pest can also be controlled folk remedies- take 12 drops of ordinary medical iodine, dissolve in a bucket of water, and treat the plants in the evening, wetting the entire above-ground mass.
Sometimes strawberries are affected by the strawberry mite; drugs such as Fitoverm, Fufanon, Actellik, and Kemifos are effective against it.
Just before the cold weather, you need to weed out all the weeds, mulch the bushes with a 2 cm layer of humus, sprinkle leaves on top and place spruce paws to keep the leaves from scattering throughout the area. But before that, be sure to inspect all the bushes and be sure to remove all diseased and old leaves.
Remember - you cannot remove too much foliage. At small quantity leaf blades of the plant may enter the winter weakened, and even when covered, they may freeze.
Also inspect the bases of the bushes; if you notice bare roots, then they certainly need to be covered with nutritious, moist and loose soil, the main thing is not to cover the growing point.
As soon as real frosts arrive, you need to add dead wood and spruce branches to the strawberry beds to further “strengthen the structure.”
As you can see, caring for garden strawberries is simple, but very important, so you should not neglect it if next year you want to get a rich harvest of healthy early berries.
Caring for strawberries after harvest
Strawberries need to be looked after all year round. Immediately after picking the berries, the plantings require special attention. Proper care during this period leads to an increase in fruiting by 30%. Self-grown berries proper care When planted, they are noticeably different from those bought in a store: they are larger and more fragrant.
July is the time for leaf growth, horn formation, mustache development, and bud formation.
Source: Depositphotos
Strawberries require careful care after harvest.
What do we have to do:
For trimming use sharp scissors or pruning shears. Do not pick off leaves and tendrils - you will harm the plant. Remove old, dry, reddened, curled young leaves immediately, otherwise pests will appear and multiply. To prevent the appearance of mites, treat the plant with acaricidal agents.
Yellow leaves and thick short petioles are a sign of nematode infection. Dig up the plant, treat it with boiling water, and remove it from the site.
To fertilize, use humus and scatter it over the surface of the soil. Its quality will improve and fertility will increase.
Dry hot weather water the beds until the end of the season, 1 bucket per 1 square meter. m.
Cover the soil with mulch of grass, straw, or peat.
For a fruitful next year, take proper care of the plant in late summer.
What to do in August:
Strawberries need constant care, especially after picking the berries. Plants are worn out, branched, and susceptible to disease. Careful care will help increase the yield and improve the quality of the berries.
