First of all for good development and gloxinia flowering needs moist air, no drafts, proper feeding, regular watering and diffused light. From direct sunlight Gloxinia leaves get burned and the plant may die.
In the first year, the plant actively grows, and then for active growth and abundant flowering it requires additional feeding. To prevent gloxinia flowers from becoming smaller and blooming for a long time, in spring and summer I apply yeast fertilizer once every 14 days: I dissolve 25 g of raw yeast in 2.5 liters of water. An hour before applying fertilizer, I water the gloxinia with plain water, then add fertilizer, and then carefully loosen the soil. wooden stick.
To strengthen the immunity of gloxinia, I use a garlic infusion: pour four cloves of garlic into 1 liter of boiling water, leave for 20 minutes. I add this solution to the water for irrigation, 1 tbsp. spoon per 1 liter of water. It is suitable not only for gloxinias, but also for other indoor flowers.
I water gloxinias once a week with rain or melt water. It is a kind of plant food. The rest of the time, as the top layer of soil dries, I water it with ordinary tap water at room temperature, but it must sit in an open container so that chlorine and other harmful impurities disappear. In spring and summer, I water gloxinia more abundantly, but it is afraid of overflow and stagnation of water. You should also not allow water to get on the fluffy leaves of the plant, as this will cause spots to appear on them, and the gloxinia may rot. I clean them from dust with a soft brush dipped in warm water. I regularly loosen the soil with a wooden stick to ensure good air flow to the roots of the plant.
Timely removal of faded flowers and leaves stimulates new flowering. In the first half of autumn, gloxinia begins a dormant period. At this time, I first reduce and then stop watering the plants altogether, cut off their dried leaves, and then the entire above-ground part of the flower dies. During this period, you cannot feed gloxinia, as they will not overwinter well and the tubers may rot. I don’t dig up the tubers for storage, but leave them in the same pots, but at the same time periodically moisten them a little upper layer soil so that the tuber does not wither.
If gloxinias continue to grow and are not in a hurry to go into hibernation, then they must be forcibly “euthanized,” otherwise they may fall asleep in the spring, or even worse: the ground part will stretch out and you can forget about good flowering. For normal development, gloxinia must be at rest for two to four months. If the plant is young, just planted, then in the first year it is better not to send it to rest, but to provide it with additional lighting to help it survive the winter.
Gloxinias overwinter in dark, cool rooms without drafts, with an air temperature of +12...+15° C. As soon as the tubers begin to germinate in the spring, I take them out into the light, place them on the windowsills, and resume the usual regime of watering and fertilizing.
When gloxinia grows extensively, I replant it periodically, usually every three years. During this time, the land becomes unsuitable for the normal growth and development of plants, and watering and fertilizing oversaturate it with harmful salts. At the end of February, I take out its tubers from the ground where gloxinia overwintered, clean it of old soil, remove damaged roots, and plant it in fresh soil. I add drainage to the bottom of the pot. A newly transplanted or diseased plant cannot be fed immediately until it gets stronger. The temperature favorable for the growth and development of gloxinia is about +20° C.
I would like to advise beginning flower growers: do not be upset if gloxinia does not bloom for a long time at first, since any plant needs to get used to a new place. Try, gain experience, try - and you will succeed!
Svetlana Martynova
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They love to grow thanks to it beautiful flowering. It is simply incredible in its beauty. Proper care behind the plant affects the formation of buds. They can be noticed as soon as about four pairs of leaves are formed. The number of buds is directly related to the conditions of detention and the age of the tuber. Gloxinia flowering lasts up to five months, starting in April and ending in early September.
Often the lack of luxurious flowers prompts the main question to arise, why gloxinia does not bloom. Let's try to figure this out.
The main reason for the lack of flowering in gloxinia will be improper care for it. Much depends on following the basic rules for keeping a flower. The main factors influencing flowering include:
If you purchased a flower with an old tuber, you can get it to bloom through good watering. It happens that tubers receive too much fertilizer or, in the worst case, they become infected. As a result, the flower becomes weak and simply does not have enough strength to bloom.
Gloxinia can get sick because of the soil. The presence of pests in it does not allow flowering to occur. IN in this case Only a transplant can help. In addition, its correct composition is important. The best one will be one that includes coniferous and leaf soil, humus, sand and peat. To remove harmful microelements in the soil, it is calcined in the oven for half an hour.
The plant is demanding of good lighting, so its lack will necessarily affect the flowering of gloxinia. And if at the same time it is even overpriced temperature regime, then the flower will begin to stretch out, and will bloom much later, or may not begin at all. IN winter period for gloxinia, you can use artificial additional lighting using fluorescent lamps.
The soil of an indoor flower must contain sufficient amounts of useful microelements, so flowering will directly depend on regular fertilizing. It is also important not to overdo it, since excess fertilizer will not be beneficial to the flower. In any case, in a flower, both excess and deficiency will affect the lack of flowering. In addition, the foliage may turn yellow. The best fertilizers for gloxinia there will be phosphorus-potassium ones, nitrogenous ones should be avoided.
Gloxinia blooms in waves. The absence of a second wave of budding may be affected by improper processing, which is carried out after the end of the first.
If there are drafts in the room and the temperature is low, the flower buds will curl.
Gloxinia is demanding on indoor humidity. Its deficiency can delay the flowering of the plant.
Gloxinia cannot be planted in a large planting container. As a result, the tuber will begin to actively grow, and flowering will be poor. Ideal option there will be a low and wide pot of small diameter.
To stimulate gloxinia to bloom, you need to take the following measures:
After the measures taken, buds will begin to form on the shoots. During this period, fertilizing is used for flowering plants.
Homemade gloxinia needs a period of rest, so in the fall its watering is noticeably reduced, and with it fertilizing. It is allowed to apply it once every three weeks. These actions will lead to the gradual drying of the flower. When finished, it is important to trim the gloxinia, leaving a stump of up to 2 centimeters. The pot is kept in a room with a temperature of about 15 degrees. Nice place there will be a bathroom. There the flower is placed directly under the bath and covered with film. Water in small quantities twice a month. They do not try hard to prevent the tuber from rotting. In the middle of winter, gloxinia is transplanted into new ground.
Gloxinia is a tuberous plant with charming funnel-shaped flowers, velvety leaves and a slightly shortened stem, which is a member of the Gesneriev family. IN natural environment it can be found in damp tropical forests Peru and Brazil.
Gloxinia is unpretentious, but in order for it to grow and develop normally at home, the gardener will have to make some efforts.
Growing gloxinia will not cause any trouble for both experienced and novice plant growers, but only if the basic care rules are followed. In order for a plant to enjoy generous flowering, it must receive sufficient light, moisture and nutrition. Gross mistakes cultivation may not kill him, but will significantly affect the quality of flowering and visual appeal.
If you are interested in the question of why gloxinia’s leaves began to curl inward, then the answer to this question is simpler than you think. Gloxinia leaves curl if the air in the room is too dry or it suffers from cold. Also, plant growers can sometimes encounter the fact that for some reason the buds of gloxinia begin to dry out.
The reason for these troubles lies in the lack of moisture in the air and too high a temperature environment. The plant feels comfortable only in conditions of high humidity and appropriate temperature, and therefore their maintenance is vital for it. Sometimes the problem can be solved if feed the plants with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. In addition, gloxinia leaves curl if spider mites settle on them.
Lack of fertilizer - a serious problem for gloxinia, which grows in its natural environment on nutritious soils. A lack of calcium leads to the fact that all of the young leaves of the plant lose their color intensity and may even curl and turn pale. An excess of this element is manifested by the appearance of light, shapeless necrotic spots or interveinal chlorosis on the leaves.
Did you know? To improve indoor air quality, scientists recommend installing several gloxinia bushes in the room, since the plant intensively produces oxygen, which prevents the appearance of unpleasant symptoms of oxygen starvation.
That the plant is suffering from lack of phosphorus, will tell you the rich dark green color of the leaves with a slight blue tint, as well as the appearance of brown or red-violet spots. Pathological changes are first observed on the lower leaves, but gradually the whole plant is involved in the process.
The development of the bush slows down greatly. If new leaves appear, they are smaller, flowering is either completely absent or greatly delayed. If the plant's buds turn black, this may be a sign that it overwintered at low temperatures, suffers from a lack of nutrition and excessive watering. Most often, fertilizing the bushes with phosphorus fertilizers and improving the quality of lighting helps speed up flowering. Excess phosphorus leads to impaired absorption of iron by the plant, which causes the appearance of interveinal chlorosis on its leaves.
No less dangerous for gloxinia and lack of nitrogen. Plants use nitrogen as construction material for protein, in addition, the element is part of chlorophyll. When there is a lack of nitrogen, a plant experiences a significant reduction in growth rate, its shoots become thinner, and the size of the inflorescences decreases. In general, the bush looks weak and lifeless, and its leaves take on a pale green color.
If gloxinia suffers from lack of nitrogen, yellowing and lightening begins with the veins and adjacent parts of the leaves. Parts of the leaves located at some distance from the veins, even with a severe lack of nitrogen, can retain their natural color. If a bush does not receive enough nitrogen, then green veins are virtually never observed on its leaves.
However, these symptoms should not be confused with natural aging of the leaf, since degradation sheet plate in this case it begins from the interveinal space. The old lower leaves are primarily affected by a lack of microelement, but over time, changes become visible on all parts of the plant. Sometimes, with a chronic lack of nitrogen, all the leaves of gloxinia begin to gradually dry out and fall off.
Did you know? In the 18th century in Europe, King Charles II of Sweden created the “language of flowers,” in which gloxinia meant “love at first sight.”
If you notice that gloxinia has become very tall, this may also be a sign that the plant is suffering from overfeeding with nitrogen or lacking light. In this case, it is necessary to immediately provide the gloxinia with a sufficient amount of light and stop feeding it with fertilizers.
If the leaves of gloxinia have acquired a dark green color and become larger and juicier, and flowering is delayed, then this is a sure sign that the plant overfed with nitrogen and you should stop administering this microelement for a while.
Overfeeding and underfeeding equally negatively affect the development of the bush: when the plant receives less useful substances there is a significant decrease in its growth rate, as well as a delay or absence of flowering. The main danger of overfeeding is that in this case the plant may suffer from chemical burns. And if at this moment you do not provide it with the necessary help (wash the soil well or replant it in new soil), then this may cause the complete death of gloxinia.
Excessive watering excess nitrogen and increased acidity soil– the most common reasons Gloxinia rotting. If the plant completely droops, its leaves begin to dry out and fall off, then this is a sure sign that the gloxinia tuber is rotting. On initial stage The disease makes itself felt by the loss of leaf turgor, which is not restored after watering.
Important! Gloxinia should be protected from hypothermia, since even a short lack of heat can cause the tubers of the plant to rot, and if you do not help it during this period, it will die very quickly.
When the tuber rots, to save the plant, you need to thoroughly clean it of rot, cut off all its leaves and soak for 20 minutes in a steep solution of potassium permanganate, then dry it, treat the damaged area with crushed charcoal and plant it in slightly moistened soil. After transplantation, the plant should receive a minimum amount of moisture.
Very often inexperienced plant growers, wanting to provide gloxinia with all the necessary nutrients, intensively feed it with nitrogen. However as a result of over-administration microelement plant, on the contrary, it completely refuses to bloom. The thing is that gloxinia reacts poorly to overfeeding with nitrogen. This element perfectly stimulates the growth of green mass, but at the same time causes a delay in flowering.
In addition, the reason for the lack of flowering can be a lack of light, drafts, low ambient temperature, lack of moisture and even too short wintering. So that gloxinia pleases with generous flowering in next season, she needs to provide a period of rest for at least three months, and after waking up, immediately place the pot with the plant in a well-lit place. A lack of light may cause the buds to not form, and, in addition, there may be very few of them, or they may not form correctly, which will cause the appearance of empty flowers or their incomplete opening.
Did you know? Exist different varieties gloxinia, but on average the size of the bushes ranges from 20 to 50 cm. However, science knows a very tiny species of gloxinia: its bushes reach a height of no more than 5 cm, and the size of its leaves does not exceed 1 cm.
Sometimes gloxinia stubbornly refuses to bloom due to an incorrectly selected pot. To grow gloxinia, you should choose wide and low pots. Excessive pot depth can cause the plant to intensively grow tubers to the detriment of flowering.
Many gardeners complain that for some reason gloxinia does not wake up after wintering. If gloxinia does not germinate after winter, then There may be several reasons for this. For example, a healthy and mature tuber was stored for less than three months and did not have time to accumulate a sufficient amount of all the substances necessary for active growth. Also, the reason may be that it became very dry during the winter.
Important! To avoid drying out of gloxinia tubers, during wintering they should be stored in tightly closed plastic bags with a small amount damp soil or moss.
Moisten the tubers periodically and make sure they do not dry out. When the first leaves appear, immediately transplant them into prepared pots.If the gloxinia tuber has not died of old age or has not been infected by a fungus, then it will definitely germinate and delight you with generous flowering, you just need to wait a little.
If you want gloxinia to delight you with generous flowering, then you need to know what leaf diseases exist and how to treat them, as well as familiarize yourself with the main difficulties in growing it.
Late blight is one of the most dangerous fungal diseases for gloxinia.
The infection spreads through contaminated soil planting material, equipment or rainwater.
Important! To prevent infection of gloxinia tubers by infectious diseases, in addition to sterilizing the soil, it is necessary to disinfect the planting material. To do this, place the tuber or cuttings of the plant in the Kaptan suspension for five minutes.
The incubation period of the disease is on average two months. Infection of plants with a disease can be facilitated by:
Fusarium is a fungal infection manifested by yellowing and wilting of leaves, and later of the entire plant. The source of infection is contaminated seed material and soil. First, the pathogen affects small roots, and after the mycelium grows, larger roots are also involved in the pathological process. The spread of infection occurs through the vessels of the plant, first the stem is affected, and over time the entire plant. The lower leaves die first, and all the rest become watery. Individual areas of the leaves may acquire a pale green or light yellow color. To stop the spread of infection, all diseased plants should be removed immediately. Fundazol can be used as a prophylactic treatment.
Gray mold is dangerous infection resulting from improper care for gloxinia. The infection spreads quickly, affecting the tubers of young plants. When a bush is infected with gray mold, the plant begins to develop slowly and bloom poorly.
To prevent the further development of infection, all areas damaged by the fungus on the tubers should be removed to healthy tissue. To prevent re-infection, the cut site is dried, treated with sulfur or crushed charcoal, and only then planted in the ground again.
Blackleg is caused by a phytopathogenic fungus found in the soil. In affected plants, the root collar is the first to suffer, as a result of which the stem begins to creep along the ground as if it had been cut down.
To prevent the development of infection, before planting plants, you should first disinfect the soil by heating it. If a bush becomes infected, it is treated with a solution copper sulfate. Before or after planting seeds in the ground, the soil is treated with charcoal or colloidal sulfur. Watering should also be adjusted, as excessive soil moisture contributes to the development of infection.
Powdery mildew is caused by a fungal infection. The disease is characterized by the appearance of a powdery coating on the plant: outwardly, the plants look as if someone had dusted them with flour. Predisposing factors contributing to the development of the disease are considered overwatering and sudden temperature fluctuations.
The source of the disease is soil or infected planting material. When a bush is damaged powdery mildew To prevent the spread of infection, it is recommended to destroy it. However, at the initial stage of the disease, the plant can be saved by treatment with any fungicidal drug, for example, Vectra.
Gloxinia sometimes suffers greatly from attacks by various pests, but most of all it is susceptible to attack aphids, spider mites and thrips.
If you notice green or brownish small insects on their plants, then most likely the gloxinia was attacked by aphids. The insect feeds on the cell sap of plants. The pest primarily attacks young leaves, as a result of which they begin to curl and become deformed. In case of minor damage, the insect is swept away with a brush, after which it is simply destroyed. If massive infestation of gloxinia is observed, it is recommended to treat the bush "Confidor" or "Decis".
When Gloxinia is affected spider mite you can notice small spots on the edges of its leaves, which have a silvery tint on the underside of the leaf. Such defects appear in places where the mite sucks cell sap from the plant. Over time, a thin web also becomes noticeable on the underside of the leaves. To repel a pest attack, wipe the leaves with a sponge dipped in a hot soapy solution. Insecticides can be used "Neoron". The drug is treated two or three times with an interval of no more than 7 days.
Thrips have a slightly elongated body and are considered the most common pest that affects indoor plants. If you notice that gloxinia's leaves are withering and you don't know what to do, then carefully inspect the bushes for thrips infestation. The insect feeds on cell sap or nectar of plants. The first sign that a plant is infected with thrips is the appearance of light stripes on the sheets, which over time merge and form conglomerates, which leads to withering of the plant.
Thrips are very tenacious, and therefore the best remedy Insecticides are considered to combat them. If a pest is detected, the affected plant must be isolated from all other indoor plants and the place where the pot stood must be thoroughly disinfected. Drugs are used to control pests "Actellik" or "Intavir".
If you take proper care of the bushes and surround them with attention, then for sure blooming gloxinia will become the main decoration of your home.
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From a botanical point of view, Gloxinia Sinningia, the taxonomy of Gesneriaceae has changed, but among flower growers, their favorite flowers are still called Gloxinia, Gloxinia and Gloxinia. Therefore, in order not to create confusion, we will keep the outdated name, but remember that her name is Sinningia the Beautiful - popular indoor plant, unpretentious, blooms profusely.
Gloxinia is photophilous, but it is better not to place it in direct sun, especially in the flowering phase, the flowers quickly fade and the flowering duration is greatly reduced.
In the spring, when the sun is not yet too hot, it will feel good on a southern window, but with the onset of June-July (depending on the climate zone), the plant will need to be moved to eastern or even western windows, or shaded from direct sunlight.
I do this: until the gloxinia grows and lays buds, it is in the brightest place, and when the first flowers bloom, I put it in a less lit and cooler place.
Gloxinia is a long-day plant; for normal growth and development it needs 12-14 hours of lighting of at least 5000 lux. With insufficient lighting, especially during the period of early growth, the plants become very elongated, which subsequently negatively affects the number of buds laid. There will be few of them, or maybe none at all. After the tuber has rooted and the leaves appear, the lighting should be as bright as possible, then the plant stem will be shorter, there will be a lot of buds and gloxinia will delight you abundant flowering. The intensity of the color of future flowers also depends on the illumination; in bright light, the flowers have a rich color, and in low light the color is noticeably paler.
Gloxinia line "Brocade"
Gloxinia line "Brocade"
Gloxinia line "Brocade"
You can use a mixture of leaf, peat soil and sand (1:1:0.5), but the composition may be different, the main condition is that the soil is loose and breathable. Acidity pH 5.5 - 6.5; gloxinia grows poorly on more acidic soils and for this reason pure, non-deoxidized peat is not suitable for it.
Before planting the plant, I strongly recommend disinfecting the soil. Now I use the drug Maxim (1 ampoule per 2 liters of water).
Wide and shallow dishes are more suitable for growing gloxinia. For young tubers, pots with a diameter of 7-10 cm are suitable, and for larger and older ones 11-15 cm. Pots can be either plastic or clay.
In February - March, less often January (it all depends on the storage temperature) the tuber begins to germinate. If it was stored in a pot with old soil, you need to take it out and clean it of the remnants of last year’s roots and soil. Disinfect in a pink solution of potassium permanganate (30 min) or in any fungicide solution. For faster root formation, the tuber is soaked in a heteroauxin solution for 18-24 hours (making sure that the solution does not get into the recess of the tuber), but this is not necessary. The tuber is planted in the ground with the depression upward and sprinkled with soil no more than 1 cm. There must be drainage at the bottom of the pot (foam plastic, expanded clay, crushed stone chips, etc.). The higher the pot, the more drainage (up to 1/3).
During the period of tuber germination there are always the greatest losses and they are associated with waterlogging of the soil, as a result of which the tuber rots. Since the development of roots is preceded by the formation of the above-ground part, watering should be very careful along the edge of the pot or into the tray and only until the soil is lightly moistened. To avoid unwanted losses I do this:
I plant the tuber in wet soil level with it, I place the pot in a bag and place it in a bright place without direct sunlight (22-25 degrees). I ventilate once a day for 10-15 minutes. After the first pair of leaves appear, I open the top of the bag and accustom the young plant to room conditions 3-4 days, then I remove the package completely. As the stem grows, I add soil and cover the tuber by 1-2 cm. While the plant is in the bag, there is no need to water it, the soil remains evenly moist and loose, preserved high humidity air and warmth, roots grow faster and there is almost no loss.
At the stage of tuber germination after a dormant period, it is necessary to maintain a temperature of about +25 degrees. After rooting and with the beginning of the growth of the vegetative mass, the temperature is reduced to +22 degrees during the day and +18 at night. Lowering the temperature is necessary so that in conditions of insufficient light (in February-March there is not enough light) the plants do not grow too rapidly and do not stretch out. The temperature does not need to be reduced, but in this case the plants need additional lighting.
During the growing season, the temperature should not fall below 18 degrees Celsius. Lower temperatures (from +15 - +20) slow down the growth and development of the plant. Optimal temperature for the growth and development of gloxinia ranges from +22 to +26 degrees.
During the active growing season, a short-term increase in temperature to +28 degrees is allowed, but at higher temperatures few buds are formed. If elevated temperatures persist for a long time, then gloxinia begins a period of stagnation, i.e. growth and development stop, and blooming flowers last no more than 3 days.
Thus, we can conclude that high temperatures for gloxinia are even more destructive than excess lighting.
Gloxinia line "Avanti"
Gloxinia line "Avanti"
Gloxinia line "Avanti"
Air humidity should be in the range of 70-80%, but gloxinia feels good even at a lower humidity of 50%, however, even lower humidity is undesirable, the plant develops poorly, growth slows down and deformation of the leaves occurs. The edges of the leaf blade are bent downwards.
To increase air humidity, you can place the plant on trays with wet expanded clay, moss, water, but gloxinia itself cannot be sprayed because Brown, dry spots form. However, away from light and drafts, gloxinia tolerates water treatments very well. At night you can take it into the bathroom, spray it or wash it with warm water and leave it there for a long time. behind closed doors and turn off the light until the water on the leaves dries completely.
For irrigation, you need to use soft water (melt, rain, filtered or partially boiled), chlorinated tap water must first be left for at least a day.
It is better to water from a tray or carefully along the edge of the pot, avoiding water getting on the leaves and in the center of the tuber (where the sprouts come from). in most cases, not from the roots, but from above, from the growing point, the tuber begins to rot. The water for irrigation should be warm, but if gloxinia is at a temperature of +18 degrees, this does not mean at all that you need to water it with water at a temperature of +25 degrees, nothing good will come of it. The water should be 2-3 degrees higher than the ambient air temperature. 20-30 minutes after watering, drain the remaining water from the pan.
Between waterings you need to dry out the soil.
It is necessary to reduce the frequency of watering in rainy, cloudy and cold weather.
At this time, the soil does not dry out for a long time, and the roots can rot from excess moisture.
After planting the tuber, there is no need to feed gloxinia for the first 1.5 - 2 months.
Fertilizers are applied an hour after the main watering, along the edges of the pot, making sure that the solution does not get on the leaves or at the growing point. It is advisable to do this in cloudy weather or in the evening, so that after feeding the plant is not in the sun.
Fertilizing with complete mineral fertilizer, alternated with organic fertilizers every two weeks, but the first feeding should be mineral.
Lack of iron in gloxinia (photo by Tideya)
You can feed once every 10 days, but then make the solution concentration weaker.
Before the buds appear, organic matter is alternated with nitrogen: (potassium nitrate, ammonium nitrate)
With the appearance of buds, organic matter is alternated with phosphorus: superphosphate, potassium phosphate), if this is not done, dormant vegetative buds will awaken, which will lead to a suspension of the normal development of the plant.
Manure is a very potent fertilizer and when using it, the concentration should be strictly observed. Pour 1 tablespoon of litter into 2 liters of water, close the lid and place in a warm and dark place. Over the next 3-4 days, stir with a stick until fermentation begins (bubbles appear on the surface). After the fermentation process is complete (about a week), the bubbles disappear, solid particles settle to the bottom of the jar, and the solution becomes lighter. It is now ready for use.
250 ml of concentrated solution is poured into 1 liter of water and mixed well; the plants are watered with this solution after preliminary moistening. (one hour after the main watering).
You can simply buy ready-made organic fertilizer.
for 10 liters of water take:
If you can’t or are too lazy to look for everything separately, then just buy phosphorus-potassium mineral fertilizer and microelements.
I use Uniflor - flower, Uniflor-bud or Baby (dry, granulated for peppers and tomatoes) as phosphorus-potassium, Uniflor - growth, Uniflor - green leaf as nitrogen and Uniflor-micro as microelements.
After flowering, feed 2 times with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers with an interval of 14 days. This will help the tuber regain strength and survive the dormant period well.
In a properly grown plant, buds are formed after the third or fourth pair of leaves. Their quantity depends primarily on the mass of the tuber and growing conditions (light, temperature, humidity).
Gloxinia can bloom again (for example, hybrids "Avanti" and "Brocade") if the first flowering was early. In this case, the above-ground part (stem and leaves) is cut off, leaving a shoot about 2 cm high. Soon gloxinia develops side shoots the second generation (second growth) on which buds are formed, the plants bloom, but not as abundantly as during the primary flowering. Flowers are smaller in size.
Repeated flowering is not typical for all species and varieties of gloxinia; for example, the side shoots of the summer generation of the Kaiser Friedrich variety develop slowly, by the end of summer they manage to acquire leaves, but do not enter the budding and flowering phase.
In the fall (September - October), when it is clear that the soil does not dry out for a long time after watering, watering is reduced, and after the leaves begin to turn yellow or dry out, they stop watering altogether. After the above-ground part of the plant completely dies off, the tuber goes into a dormant state, which lasts 3-4 months depending on the storage temperature.
Tubers are stored in several ways:
This is how I store them: I dig up the tubers, place them in damp sawdust or sand and store them on the bottom or middle shelf of the refrigerator door. Once a month I take out and inspect the tubers; if the sawdust dries out, I lightly moisten them and place the tubers there again.
According to literary data, as well as based on data from Internet resources, storage temperatures below +8 degrees are detrimental for gloxinia. Based on my many years of experience, I cannot agree with this, the refrigerator is only +5, but I have never had any losses. The main condition is not to over-moisten the substrate in which the tubers are stored; it should only be slightly damp, and the sand can be completely dry.
Gloxinias are easily propagated by seeds, leaf and stem cuttings, part of the leaf blade, peduncle and tuber division.
Seed propagation is mainly for gloxinia species; you can get a lot of young plants at once and it is not advisable for varietal and hybrid ones; Characteristics may split into genetic level, which manifests itself in the appearance of the plant. There is no guarantee that you will receive a plant with the original parental characteristics.
Sowing is carried out at the end of January - February (with mandatory additional lighting with fluorescent lamps) or in March.
Seeds germinate in the light, they are sown superficially on a moist substrate (the composition is the same as for planting tubers), lightly pressed against it and covered with glass or film. The bowl with the crops is placed in a bright place. At a temperature of 24-26 degrees, germination begins 12-14 days from the moment of sowing; at lower temperatures it takes up to one month or even longer. Caring for crops comes down to maintaining temperature and humidity, preventing the soil from drying out. If there is a need to moisten the soil, this should be done from a pallet. There is no need to water from above because the seeds are small and can be easily washed off with water.
About a month after the appearance of the cotyledons, you can make the first pick, especially if the crops are thickened. They dive according to the 2*2 cm pattern into light soil. Another month, after the first pair of true leaves appear, the young plants are picked again or immediately planted in separate pots with a diameter of 6 cm (cactus). The temperature is maintained at least +20 degrees. Gloxinia tolerates picking well, and after it begins to grow intensively.
I do this: if the seeds are granular, I place them at a distance of 4*4 cm from each other in order to avoid picking in the cotyledon phase in the future. I put the bowl with the crops in a transparent cake box, and they remain there until 1-2 pairs of true leaves appear. After that, I plant them in separate pots and again put them in this mini greenhouse for 2 weeks for rooting and survival. In the future, I will accustom the room to the open air and, if necessary, transfer it to pots. bigger size. My seedlings bloom 4-5 months after germination.
Gloxinias grown from seeds may not have a dormant period in the first year, and will vegetate (continue to grow) all winter.
On the second day of flowering, after the flower blooms, take a soft brush and transfer the pollen to the stigma. The next day, to better guarantee pollination, repeat this procedure. If pollination has occurred, the perianth falls off after a few days, the ovary begins to grow, and along with it the receptacle noticeably thickens. Former flower, and now the unripe fruit is dark green in color and does not dry out for a long time. Seed ripening lasts 1.5 - 2 months and it is uneven, i.e. the seeds do not ripen at the same time in the box. After the fruit (box) opens, bring a piece of paper and, tapping the peduncle, shake out the seeds. After a couple of days, collect the seeds again. The seeds are very small, dust-like. Germination remains for 2-3 years. Germination is good.
Normally, a plant should have no more than 3 seed capsules. If the plant is young or the tuber is of insufficient weight and size, limit yourself to one fruit and remove the excess ones.
Vegetative propagation is the most common method; it is the simplest and most accessible. If rooting occurs in spring or in the first half of summer, then flowering can be seen from the resulting young plants in the same season.
In the budding phase or during flowering, cut off the leaf of the lower tier of the rosette (young, upper leaves should not be taken). It is desirable that the petiole be short and thick; the size of the resulting tuber will depend on the diameter of the petiole. Next, you can proceed in a way convenient for you:
If a gloxinia tuber has many side shoots, leave 1-2 and break out the rest. Stem cuttings are essentially finished plants, but without roots. They are rooted in the same way as leafy ones and they bloom in the same season.
It should be mentioned that not all gloxinia varieties can be propagated in this way. Some varieties take root well with peduncles, while others do not take root at all.
After the corolla has withered, the peduncle is broken out and placed 1 - 1.5 cm in water and care is taken that it does not touch the walls of the vessel. Do not change the water, add as it evaporates. After about a month, roots and a nodule form on it. After this, the peduncle is planted in moist soil to a depth of 1.5 - 2 cm. Care as for leaf cuttings.
Large tubers that have more than two sprouts can be divided. The tuber is cut into pieces so that each of them contains at least one sprout. Sections of parts of the tuber are sprinkled with crushed charcoal, dried for 3-4 days in a dark place at room temperature and then planted in moist soil.
Further care is similar to caring for a whole tuber after planting.
A tuber has not formed - this can happen when planting a very long stem cutting or if the cutting was planted very deeply and was watered abundantly.
The buds turn black and die - the reason is a lack of micronutrients and shortened daylight hours.
Redness of the leaves is a lack of phosphorus.
Yellowing of leaves - lack of nitrogen or overwatering.
Leaf discoloration is a magnesium deficiency.
Curling leaves - insufficient air humidity.
Spotting (non-infectious). On the leaves, yellow or brown spots of indeterminate shape are too bright lighting, drafts or watering with cold water.
Curling of flowers, slowing down of plant growth - temperature below +15 degrees.
Curling of the edges of the leaves and their arching, the formation of deformed flowers and shortened pedicels - excess moisture in the soil.
Rotting of petioles and buds - excess acidity soil, excess nitrogen fertilizers, waterlogging of the soil.
The plant does not bloom - insufficient lighting, lack of nutrition, dry or cold air, improper maintenance during the dormant period, excess nitrogen fertilizers.
Most often, gloxinias are affected by thrips and red spider mites.
Treat with systemic insecticides in a place protected from light and drafts (spray the plant itself, spill the soil). After the moisture from the gloxinia leaves has dried completely, you can put it in place. The procedure is well tolerated.
Gloxinia - amazing beautiful flower, which is successfully grown on home windowsills. Gloxinia is attractive because it blooms incredibly beautifully. At the same time, flowers decorate the plant throughout almost the entire summer.
But sometimes, even after a good winter rest, the plant does not want to bloom again. Why doesn't gloxinia bloom? What are the reasons?
The main and most common reason why domestic gloxinia does not bloom is the lack of proper care.
The following reasons can be cited:
A very old tuber. You may have purchased an old plant. And to achieve its flowering, gloxinia needs to be watered more.
Infection or overfeeding of the tuber. The tuber may be infected or overfed with fertilizers. Both significantly weaken the plant and gloxinia simply does not have the strength to flower.
Contaminated soil. The flower is sick because there are too many pests in the soil. In this case, a transplant will help.
Lack of light at high air temperatures. If the room where the gloxinia stands is poorly lit and the room is always hot, then the flower will definitely “respond” to such conditions. As a rule, in this case, gloxinia’s stems begin to stretch, and the flowering period either begins much later or is absent altogether.
Fertilizers. The plant blooms poorly or does not bloom at all, because it either does not receive enough of the nutrients it needs for this, or you fertilize it too actively. In any of these cases, gloxinia will react with periodic yellowing of the leaves and, of course, poor flowering.
Incorrect processing. Quite often, gardeners cannot get a second wave of flowering because the plant received the wrong treatment after the first.
Flowers curl. Sometimes after flowering the flowers begin to curl. In this case, the gloxinia is in a draft or the room for the flower is not warm enough.
Low humidity. With insufficient air humidity, flowering occurs much later.
Incorrect landing. Planting gloxinia in a large pot is a big mistake. In this case, the plant’s tuber will begin to actively grow, and gloxinia will bloom very poorly. Don't forget to read the article growing gloxinia from seeds this will help you avoid unnecessary mistakes.
You can stimulate the plant as follows. As soon as the gloxinia finishes flowering, the stem needs to be cut off. In this case, only a few lower leaves should remain on the plant. In the coming days, the flower will have stepsons. Of these, you need to select the strongest ones and remove the rest. During this period, gloxinia needs fertilizers to stimulate growth.
After a month, buds will appear on the shoots again, and now the flower needs to be fed with fertilizers for flowering plants. But you shouldn’t count on too vigorous flowering. And this is the norm for gloxinia.
It is very important to organize a rest period for the flower. After autumn bloom Watering should be reduced to almost a minimum, and feeding should be done no more than once every three weeks.
With this care, the plant will gradually dry out. Then the flower is cut off, leaving only a stump 2 cm high. And in this form it is moved to a cool room with a temperature no higher than +12...+15.
You can simply store the cut gloxinia under the bathtub, covered with foil. Watering is carried out no more than twice a month and in very small doses. Otherwise, the tuber may rot. Gloxinia is transplanted into new soil in January.
Sometimes the plant wakes up ahead of schedule. It is best to remove the shoot if the tuber is strong enough. If this is not done, the plant will end up with a less compact rosette and a very elongated one.
For replanting, you need to choose a pot with a diameter of no more than 12 centimeters. A height of 10 centimeters is quite enough. These are ideal proportions, since there is enough space for the tuber to grow normally, and the plant itself gives a good rosette and lush flowering.
How to feed gloxinia and when did the plant please us with its flowering? You can start feeding the flower from April until the very beginning of August. Feed weekly.
Fertilizer for gloxinia is any feeding mixture intended for flowering house plants. It must contain large quantities phosphorus and potassium, but not nitrogen. Excess nitrogen will cause gloxinia to grow a powerful and beautiful rosette, but the flowers will be very small and inconspicuous.
Gloxinia responds well to the application of humic fertilizers, but treatment with them can only be carried out in exceptional cases. Simultaneously with fertilizing, growth stimulants can also be used. Do not use a lot of phosphorus fertilizers. This will provoke a very vigorous but short flowering in the flower.
Fertilizers are applied only to well-moistened soil. If you feed a dry plant, it can burn root system. You cannot feed transplanted gloxinias and recently rooted cuttings.
