Currant is a deciduous perennial berry shrub that bears healthy and tasty berries. The plant belongs to the gooseberry family. Distributed almost throughout Europe, in Siberia right up to Lake Baikal, there is a lot of it in North America. It can grow either singly or in group thickets. Grows well in moist, loose, well-lit soils. The most common are red currants, while black currants began to be cultivated much later. White is also less common. Currants, especially black ones, are champions in vitamin C content, and red ones contain much more large quantity vitamin A. Red currants produce a slightly larger amount of juice than black currants. The nutritional value of the berries remains even during heat treatment. Currant fruits are consumed fresh, they are used to make compotes, jams, preserves, and frozen for the winter.
Growing currants is not a very complicated and exciting process. If the currants do not bear fruit, it means that something in the care is being done incorrectly. She needs to be put on suitable soils, water on time, prune and treat against pests and diseases. If you take care of your plants as you should, you can enjoy the fruits of this wonderful shrub for many years and enrich yourself with vitamins and microelements.
For landing You should choose good varieties of currants; it is better if they are seedlings from nurseries or from trusted manufacturers, with a good root system. Best time For planting - autumn, but spring planting is also possible. Seedlings are planted at a distance of 40 cm in rows (when planted in the form of a cordon) to 1.5 meters between bushes.
The soil is being prepared, leveling it in advance, add compost, superphosphate, potassium sulfate or potassium chloride. (120 g per meter3). At increased acidity lime is added to the soil. The plant is placed at an angle of 45 degrees in a planting hole 30-50 cm deep and 40 cm wide, previously spilled with a bucket of water. Cover the roots with soil so that the root collar is buried 5-7 cm. Water, trample and mulch the soil around the bush.
When leaving the soil should be constantly cultivated, weeds removed, watered, fed and pruned. For the purpose of prevention and treatment of already occurring diseases and pest infestations, it is necessary to spray the bushes with chemicals.
It often happens that gardeners complain that currants stop bearing fruit. The bushes should bear fruit every year. Peak yield occurs in the 5th year of planting.
If, after planting in the first year, currants do not produce berries, this is normal, but if there are no fruits in the second and subsequent years, it is worth thinking about the reasons.
What could be the reasons why currants do not bear fruit?
Wrong landing site. If the seedling is planted in the shade or in a too hot place, the bush may not produce a harvest. When planted in the shade, the bush may grow tall and produce lush greenery, but there may be few or no berries.
The soil where currants are planted should not give an acidic reaction. To get rid of acidity, it is limed. It’s best to do this ahead of time, a year before planting. Also too fertile soil can also have a detrimental effect on the harvest. In this case, make trenches at a distance of 35-45 cm from the bush, and fill them with clay soil with the addition of ash and bone meal. Carry out anti-aging pruning on such bushes, cutting out excess “fattening” shoots.
Lack of moisture. A plant with weak watering may not produce an ovary. They may dry out
Unsuitable climate. In cold areas, southern varieties may wake up earlier and get caught in spring frosts when the ovary dies. It is necessary to select the right varieties taking into account climatic conditions.
Varieties may not form ovaries without cross-pollination. In this case, you need to provide it. The solution may be to plant honey flowers nearby.
Incorrect fertilizing with the same type of fertilizer often leads to a cessation or reduction in yield.
Aging bushes. Age 7-10 years, when - the plant can no longer bear fruit due to the lost resource. Younger plants can still be rejuvenated by cuttings, but for a bush older than 10-20 years this may not help.
In addition, there are diseases that lead to a lack of yield in currant bushes.
A serious disease is reversion (doubleness). This viral disease of currants is transmitted by a bud mite. It leads to infertility. In plants infected with this virus, the flowers become deformed, the petals become thinner, stretch out and become terry, turn green or purple. The specific aroma of currants is lost. Fruiting practically stops. The disease infects bush after bush, and in a few years it can affect all currant bushes.
The first preventive measure to avoid getting the virus into your garden should be to purchase good healthy seedlings. They are taken from reliable suppliers. And cuttings for propagation from healthy bushes.
To prevent the disease, you should constantly inspect the plants for timely detection of the bud mite - as the main carrier of the terry disease. During flowering, bushes need to be checked especially carefully. If double (curly) flowers are found, you should immediately cut off and destroy these shoots. But reversion is a very insidious disease and it is almost impossible to stop it. Most likely, such bushes will have to be destroyed. Such currants not only do not bear fruit, but will also infect other bushes.
Therefore, do not allow this virus into your garden.
The bud mite, as a carrier of the terry virus, is very dangerous for currants. It develops inside the kidneys, affecting them. Its sign is the enlarged round buds of the plant. If they are found, they should be immediately torn off and destroyed. But when it is completely affected, the bush is uprooted and burned. As preventive measure Garlic is planted between the currant bushes, and the bushes are sprayed with garlic infusion.
Glass butterfly. If the currant leaves wither and the ovaries fall off, there is a danger of being attacked by this pest. This insect gnaws holes in its shoots. For treatment, you need to cut the shoots back to a healthy trunk. If the plant is severely affected, you can cut it down to the roots. The cut areas are sealed using garden varnish.
Currants do not bear fruit because of ants. Forest ants can also cause irreparable damage to currant bushes. They feed on the insides of flowers, depriving the plant of its ability to bear fruit. It is necessary to get rid of them by biological or chemical means.
For the prevention and treatment of currants, Zircon, Epin-extra, Novosil, and Hom are used. In the spring, when leaves appear, spray with Zircon and Epin-Extroy. After flowering with “Zircon”, after harvesting, with “Hom” or “Zircon”. If such measures do not help restore productivity and cure the bush, then it is removed and replaced. It is better to change the soil in this place or plant a new plant in a new place.
In general, currants are a grateful crop that, with proper care, can provide you and your loved ones with vitamins, minerals and microelements not only in summer, but also in winter, frozen and in preparations
Almost all personal plots Various vegetables and fruits are grown. Special place Among fruit and berry plants, currants are given priority. She has unique healing properties, which our great-great-grandmothers knew about. However, not all owners know how to properly care for this shrub, so many of them sooner or later begin to wonder why black currants do not bear fruit. You will learn about the reasons for this problem in today's article.
The monks who lived in the area began to cultivate wild bushes. Kievan Rus. This happened back in the 10th century, and from that moment it began to be bred in almost all European countries. Those who know why it bears fruit poorly will also be interested in the benefits of this plant.
The berries, buds and leaves of this shrub have excellent healing properties. They contain a large number of essential oils, so they are used as a disinfectant. In addition, black currant has a diaphoretic, diuretic and fixative effect. It contains many different vitamins, including A, P, B and C. It is also rich in iron, phosphorus, magnesium, calcium, potassium, sodium, pectins, flavonoids, glycosides, glucose, organic acids and tannins.
At favorable conditions This plant produces a harvest every year. Moreover, the peak of fruiting occurs in the fifth year from the moment of planting. With proper care and favorable conditions, you can harvest about thirty kilograms of berries from one hectare. However, some gardeners complain about the lack of a good harvest and begin to look for reasons why black currants have stopped bearing fruit.
One of the most important factors that can reduce the number of ripe berries is early flowering. If it falls during a cold period, when pollinating insects are not as active as they should be, then you should not count on receiving a bountiful harvest.
The second, no less important, reason is an improperly formed bush. Some amateur gardeners, due to inexperience, leave an excessive number of root shoots or completely ignore this process.
Those who want to understand why black currants do not bear fruit should understand that the yield also depends on where the bush is located. Perhaps he was placed in the shade and lacks sun rays. Or maybe, on the contrary, currants grow along the fence, which heats up in extreme heat and kills the fruits that have not had time to ripen.
So that you don’t have the question in the future: “Why don’t black currants bear fruit?”, you need to provide it with proper care. In young people planted in early spring Bushes need to be cut off almost the entire ground part so that no more than two or three buds remain on each branch. This manipulation provokes the formation of new basal branches.
A year later, in early spring, you need to trim the shoots so that two buds remain above the surface of the soil. For further fruiting, usually no more than three shoots are left. All other branches are completely removed.
In the third year, twelve healthy basal shoots are left on the bush, in the fourth - no more than twenty. These manipulations contribute to good fruiting. Quite large berries appear on the bush formed in this way.
For those who do not know why black currants bloom but do not bear fruit, information about ailments that prevent the normal formation of berries will be useful.
One of the reasons for the lack of harvest may be reversion. The currant leaf affected by this disease becomes longer and takes on a pointed shape. The characteristic aroma ceases to emanate from the plant, and the flowers change color to purple. Bushes infected with reversion must be dug up and destroyed.
Another pest that prevents fruiting is the bud mite. To prevent its appearance, it is recommended to plant garlic between the bushes. The mite that infects young buds actively develops inside them.
Those who want to understand why black currants do not bear fruit will be interested in learning about another reason. It is a glass butterfly. Leaves affected by this pest begin to wither. The insect gnaws passages inside young shoots. Affected branches should be cut off and sealed with garden varnish.
This is done by cutting off the entire above-ground part, with the exception of healthy annual branches. Moreover, the basal shoots are shortened so that only one or two buds remain on the surface of the soil. During the first two years after rejuvenation, it is recommended to carry out the bush formation procedure, making sure that as a result no more than five or six shoots of different ages remain.
To grow strong and well-bearing currants, you need to regularly fertilize the soil with humus and mineral fertilizers, as well as loosen and water it in a timely manner.
It is believed that currants are an unpretentious plant. And this is actually true - it grows in the forest without any care, and besides, it bears fruit. But it also happens the other way around, when the bush looks good, develops normally, but there are no berries. Why does this happen?
If the bush is no longer young, has been in one place for many years, but does not even try to bloom, then most likely it is due to its age. Fruiting of currants occurs mainly on relatively young shoots - no older than four years. Every year it moves to the edges of the bush, and the branches gradually lose their ability to form growth. Typically, currants, both black and colored, bear fruit well for ten years or a little more. Then flowering stops - the bush ages.
What to do with such a plant? The easiest way is to uproot and plant a new bush. But you can try to rejuvenate him. To do this, the plant is greatly thinned out, removing all old and mossy branches and leaving only the youngest shoots. Sometimes they even cut it off at the root in order to get friendly growth next year. And, of course, it is imperative to feed the currants - with organic matter or complete mineral fertilizer.
When a healthy and young bush refuses to bear fruit, then most likely it is simply not suitable for given climate. This happens when currants are damaged every year spring frosts, or fruit buds die in winter due to low frost resistance. The fact is that southern varieties are not adapted to changeable weather conditions northwest. The buds begin to grow early and, frozen, can no longer bloom.
Another reason why a young and healthy currant bush may not bear fruit is the lack of pollinators. Although most varieties are self-fertile, sometimes there are those that produce only one or two berries without cross-pollination, and even then not every year. There is only one treatment here - pollination must be ensured by any means.
And finally, there are cases when young bushes grow beautifully, have lush dark green foliage and huge annual growth. But no matter how much they are fed or watered, they do not begin to bloom. Most likely, such plants simply “fatten” - endlessly increasing their green mass due to excess nitrogen in too “fat” soil. To force them to bear fruit, it is necessary to eliminate the cause that caused the imbalance nutrients, feed with potassium and phosphorus, monitor what fertilizers get into the areas close to the roots.
Lack of harvest can also be caused by bush disease. Its signs are revealed during flowering. Diseased flowers have abnormally narrow petals and overgrown pistils. The flower brush becomes like a thin twig, covered with yellowish scales instead of berries. The leaves grow three-lobed and abnormally elongated. The disease is contagious and cannot be treated. Sick bushes must be uprooted and burned along with the roots.
Prevents the formation of berries and damage to currants by glassworms, as well as insect pests that eat away the pistils of flowers and young ovaries. According to some reports, even large forest ants that have proliferated in the area can do this. It's better to fight them biological methods, but if these do not help, you have to use stronger chemicals.
Usually, hopeless situations can not be. If desired, you can restore fruiting in one way or another, especially if the variety is rare and valuable, capable of producing good and tasty berries.
Red currant - answers to questions
Gardeners love red currants for their unpretentiousness and responsiveness to care. There is no point in pitting black and red currants against each other; each of them is good in its own way and deserves a place in the garden. But red currant plants, compared to black currants, are more durable, tolerate drought better, are distinguished by regular fruiting and increased resistance to some pests and diseases; the berries have high technological properties. However, not every gardener manages to grow red currants.
A lot has already been planted on my plot, but there are no red currants yet. Where is the best place to place it?
When choosing a place for a currant plantation, you need to take into account its biological characteristics.
Red currant shoots easily break off when exposed to wind, especially in vigorous varieties (Faya is fertile, Laxton is perfect), therefore, areas must have natural or artificial protection from winds. Red currant seedlings are placed in unshaded areas.
Compared to black currant root system red is more powerful and deep (up to 1.5-2 m), which explains its increased drought resistance and dislike of too wet soil.
Red currants are propagated like gooseberries and black currants. But in many varieties, lignified cuttings root worse than those of black ones; they require two years of cultivation in a nursery, since in the first year they form only a short growth. It is usually recommended to do this in late August - early September. But I prefer (this has been verified) the flowering period of bird cherry. At the same time, the survival rate is almost 100%; the growth of plants is even better than those planted in the fall.
Cuttings are harvested in late autumn or early spring, before buds open. In both cases, they are stored in the refrigerator. Before rooting, they are placed in water for 2-3 days, which is changed every day. And if you add aloe juice, or a little honey, or a drop of lemon juice, or what you consider “life-giving” moisture, currants will certainly respond to such care and give roots.
Acceptable and green cuttings with a “heel” (during berry picking, new growth is cut off from 1 cm of last year’s growth). This method requires light soil, artificial fog, watering, ventilation, etc. In amateur gardens, when the need for planting material is small, it is better to propagate currants by horizontal and arcuate layering. In this case, the one-year-old shoot is bent, pinned and covered. light soil. Further care consists of watering, weeding and loosening. The shoot can be bent down both in the fall and in the spring, and in the first case, it can be planted after a year, in the second - in the fall.
I want to plant red currants, but I don’t know when and how to do it?
Considering that the buds wake up at an air temperature of plus 6°, and the roots (at the level of the suction roots) when the soil warms up above 10°, plant red currants, like all shrubs, better in autumn 1-2 weeks before the onset of frost. Before planting, dig up the soil half a meter and add manure and fertilizer.
What methods of shaping red currants exist?
Red currants can be used to form both a bush and a tree.
If they want a bush, they plant it obliquely and after planting they cut it back heavily, leaving 3-4 buds above the soil surface. Starting from the second year, pruning achieves the formation of approximately 8-10 evenly spaced branches in the center of the bush. The peculiarity of the formation and pruning of bushes is associated with the durability of fruit formations, skeletal branches and the nature of fruiting. Strong annual basal shoots are usually not cut out, but only short and underdeveloped ones are completely removed. If in the second year there is not a sufficient number of lateral branches, shorten the zero shoots by 1/5-1/4 of their length. One-year growth on skeletal branches is also not pruned, since the bulk of flower buds are formed in the upper part of the branches (at the boundaries of growth). If the old branches give good harvest high-quality berries, they are not touched either. Usually old branches are cut out at the age of 6-7 years and older. Branches 5-6 years old, if they have stopped growing and the berries have become small, can be shortened by 1/3-1/2 by transferring to stronger lateral branches. This is the so-called anti-aging pruning, which will enhance growth and fruiting.
Straightness and strength of branches of certain varieties of red currant (Jonkier van Tete, Firstborn, Dutch Red), the durability of ringlets and bouquet branches allows you to form bushes in standard form(tree), which facilitates soil care, harvesting, and improves the quality of berries.
Plant the “tree” only straight, having previously removed other shoots and buds from the root collar and stem to a height of up to 40 cm (if possible) and leaving the apical growth plus 2-3 more to replace in case of freezing.
Red currants also lend themselves well to flat shaping in the form of a fan and a vertical wall.
Please explain whether it is necessary to have pollinating varieties.
Red currant is a self-pollinating plant. In the garden it is enough to have two bushes of the same variety. But... the plant is alive and it is much more fun for it to overcome difficulties when there is another variety nearby. If the area is limited, currants can be grafted well by all means, and believe me, someone else’s branch will not be superfluous.
How to deal with red gall aphids and other pests? Why do individual currant branches dry out?
Red gall aphids are the eternal companion of red currants. Unfortunately, there are no varieties resistant to this pest.
Currant shoots (branches) dry out if:
*they are damaged by glass - the core is eaten;
* the roots have reached salts (carbonates), water, unrotted manure: in this case, the plant is initially depressed, there are light leaves (white, yellow);
*in winter there were long thaws followed by frosts or there was severe frost in the absence of snow cover.
The spread of diseases and pests depends on many factors - weather, infestation, etc. To contain the onslaught, you need to follow the following simple rules and techniques for plant protection:
**pluck and burn affected leaves (red gall aphids, powdery mildew) and cut out shoots (glass glass); keep ants out;
**do not thicken the plant, the area itself and the currants should be well ventilated;
**after preliminary collection and burning of litter, shallowly loosen the soil in the fall under and around the bushes;
**purchase and grow only healthy planting material;
**do not plant bushes near diseased or pest-infested plants;
**do not leave open wounds (breaks from the wind, from tools, etc.);
** dust the crown with stove ash; spray or rinse the plants with a soap solution (200-250 g of green liquid soap or 300-400 g household + soda ash);
**Regularly trim garlic and onions planted between plants.
I consider it unacceptable to use strong poisons in your garden, but biological agents such as Delta ladybugs, trichograms, help.
Which modern varieties have a long cluster and large berries, and which varieties have the sweetest berries?
Beautiful long filled cluster with large even berries in varieties Stefanis, Valentinovka, Imperial yellow, Memory Gubenko, Hero, Dutch pink.
Sweet berries from red currant varieties Chotaqua, Dutch pink, Rose Chair, Early sweet, Rondom, Hero, ELS 10-10.
The listed varieties are suitable for all regions of Russia, except the most northern ones.
Currant is a surprisingly responsive plant. She is always with us both in trouble (he will heal, heal) and in joy (wine is not inferior in taste to grape wine, remember also jellies, juices, etc.). And how decorative it is! It grows almost everywhere. So let her please us and rejoice in us - caring and skillful.
N.V. Fedorycheva, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences, Ulyanovsk
Why did red currants suddenly stop bearing fruit?
Most likely, yours is old. Fruitlets (short fruit branches on which flower buds are laid, located along the entire length of the branches, but there are especially many of them at the ends of the branches) live for about 10 years. Then the branch becomes obsolete and just needs to be cut. The entire bush may become outdated if it is about 15-20 years old.
In this case, it can be rejuvenated by gradually cutting out a third of the bush to the very base over three years.
The blackcurrant bush also rejuvenates after about 10-12 years. Or gooseberries - after 18-20 years.
In gooseberries, fruits stop bearing fruit after 8-10 years, and in black currants - after 5. Therefore, as soon as the yield on a branch begins to decline or it stops bearing fruit altogether, it should be cut out to the point of attachment to the trunk.
The bark on the stems of the red currants has peeled off. What it is?
Don't worry, there's nothing special - this is normal for red currants. The same phenomenon is observed in honeysuckle and some raspberry varieties.
Red swellings appeared on the leaves of the red currant. What to do with them?
Red swellings on the leaves are so-called galls, which are caused by red gall aphid. She lays eggs on the tops of stems, which causes the leaves at the tops to curl. It overwinters in these leaves. They need to be robbed and burned.
In early spring, as soon as the leaves begin to grow, aphids penetrate the leaf blade from below and eat away the inside of the leaf. Its excrement causes swelling on the leaves.
To prevent aphids from getting into the leaves, you can spray with a solution of drinking or soda ash(3 tbsp per 10 liters of water). But spraying must be done before the swellings appear, and not after, because the aphids are inside the leaf. And be sure to inside leaf so that the aphid crawling on it will burn the body with soda and die. IN rainy weather There is no point in doing such spraying.
Spraying can be done with any absorbable preparation, but it is better not chemical, but biological.
Red currants grow, bloom, but dry out before they have time to produce berries. What is the reason?
Most likely, the reason is that the bush is old (more than 20 years). No amount of rejuvenation will help him. Taking cuttings from him is pointless, because the same thing will happen to them.
Buy new planting material. There are a lot now good varieties, but there are few good nurseries that grow seedlings. Most often at exhibitions they sell material that, to put it mildly, is not at all what they claim it to be. To the North-West, for example, planting material is often imported from Belarus or Ukraine, from the southern regions of Russia and even from Moldova, which is not at all suitable for this climatic zone.
Planting material should be purchased zoned and in nurseries in your area.
But maybe the reason is one of the fungal diseases. Try in the spring, as soon as the leaves begin to unfurl, spray this bush with zircon. After flowering, immediately spray it again, and after harvesting, spray it with copper oxychloride or Bordeaux mixture. If this does not help, feel free to replace the bush. It can be planted in its old place only by completely changing the soil.
Gardeners and gardeners of all ranks love to grow blackcurrant on their plots - the plant is not picky and often does not have serious problems with cultivation. It happens that black currants do not bloom or bear fruit. After reading today's article, you will answer this question for yourself, and also receive recommendations on what to do to correct the situation.
In forests, black currant always develops without problems - it blooms and bears fruit on time, but in gardens and on summer cottages problem happens. Why doesn't the blackcurrant bush bloom?
Young blackcurrant bushes bloom without problems, but older ones can be capricious. Most often, mature black currants do not even set buds, not to mention the formation of ovaries for further fruiting. Relevant in in this case is care for an adult blackcurrant bush, aimed at the formation of inflorescences. 
When does a blackcurrant bush become old?
Black currants can form inflorescences and delight the gardener with fruits for 5 to 10 years. Subsequently, the vital functions of the berry decrease, the bush ages, stops blooming and bears fruit. What to do with such a bush?
There are several options for what you can do with a blackcurrant bush if it doesn’t bloom: prune, feed, restore with any available methods, - or uproot, making room for new plantings.
How to feed black currants for flowering?
Blackcurrant responds well to organic fertilizers. Don't forget about complex mineral fertilizers, whose components are necessary at all stages of budding and fruiting. Combination and proper alternation of organic and mineral (in combination) fertilizers will increase the chances of black currants to bloom.
In order for black currants to bloom, they need pollination. A smart move is to create natural pollination (with a brush and pollen) to stimulate the inflorescences.
How to make blackcurrant bloom?
Being smart gardeners, having understood the reasons why black currants do not bloom, we can now select necessary procedures, making our berries bloom. 
How to make blackcurrant bloom:
Recipe for tincture on potato peels: put 1 liter of dried potato peels in 10 liters of boiling water. Cover the pan with a lid after blanching, wrap it in a towel and set aside to cool. Use 3 liters of infusion per 1 blackcurrant bush.
Other things folk recipes Infusions of popular herbs also include:
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