Many gardeners are of the opinion that all autumn work on the garden plot ends with the arrival of autumn and cold weather.
However, preparing the beds for winter is just beginning. This is fundamental to a future crop without chemicals. Let's take a look and find out in more detail what autumn work needs to be done on the site and how to prevent depletion of the land and maintain fertility. The listed methods can be used in Siberia, the Urals and the Moscow region.
Sowing green manure. It is necessary to start immediately after harvesting. This helps to cover the surface of the earth in the fall, preventing it from freezing. winter period, snow is better retained on the surface, microorganisms are preserved and multiply much more in the soil, and this can provide the soil with everything it needs without the use of fertilizers.
Mulching. It is necessary to cover future beds with a layer of manure, humus or compost (if green manure has not been sown).
Warm beds. To prepare them, you can take any tops garden plants(no visible infection). And in the spring season, just water them with liquid microorganisms and then the process will start.
Treatment against harmful insects. In order to avoid soil contamination and undesirable consequences from pests, it is necessary to shed liquid microorganisms.
Let's look at each question in more detail.
Fertilizing the soil plays a special role in preparation. Farming experts believe that there is no need to dig up the soil and add manure or other fertilizers: all these measures will not benefit your garden. There is no need to dig up the soil, but it is important to place fertilizers on top of the soil.
The most positive outcome would be the use of exclusively natural fertilizers. This category includes items considered organic waste - branches, boards, old paper. The ash after burning such things will perfectly nourish the soil of the site. You should scatter it throughout the garden.
You should also pay attention to manure: it is great view fertilizers It is not advisable to use store-bought manure as it may contain infections that will get into your soil. Applying manure from your own pets will be a good solution. This fertilizer should be mixed with sawdust and placed over the entire surface of the site.
The note! “Organic soil nutrients can be harvested throughout the year.”
It is necessary to prepare the bed as it is vacated. An empty bed should be dug up with sand and sowed with green manure. After the seedlings emerge and reach the flowering phase, you can dig up the ground again. But it is necessary to do this so that the plants are under a lump of earth (do not break the lumps).
This method of digging the soil has its advantages: it is processed in small areas and the garden soil looks well-groomed before it is covered with snow. Sowing green manure in the fall has aesthetic appearance and is partly a replacement for manure or humus. For preventive purposes, to destroy the larvae of various insects, you can use:
Then we fertilize the greenhouse beds. When digging, we simultaneously add organic fertilizers, humus, manure, and compost. The amount of fertilizer will depend on the choice of planting material for a given greenhouse.
Sprinkle sand or ash on top and cover with dry grass or leaves. You can also cover the soil with snow. In the spring, when it thaws, it will saturate the soil with moisture.
These include beds that consist of plant remains. Its structure is that during the process of decay organic plants is formed a large number of thermal energy, which warms up the root system (for example, a tomato) and helps to endure the cold period. And also during the processes of decay it is formed carbon dioxide, promoting the formation of nutrients.
The note! “This type of beds is made for the winter period, since in the fall there is a lot of freed up soil and plant remains.”
To construct it you need to make a box from wooden boards and put wood waste (shavings, sawdust) on the bottom. Then put a paper layer (newspaper, paper, etc.) and sprinkle compost or manure on top. The top layer is made up of mown grass, leaves, weeds, etc.
It is necessary to water such a bed every day for the formation of the rotting process. In the spring, you need to pour humus over the existing layers, and you can plant the plants.
There are two methods of digging in the fall open ground:
It is impossible to single out one of these methods as the best. However, in any case, you should not break up the dug up soil, otherwise the ground may freeze, and when it gets warmer, the snow will melt, be absorbed into the soil and it will be crumbly.
The note! “The digging process is carried out with a shovel or villas. Usually one bayonet of a shovel is enough for proper digging in open ground.”
Caring for soil in a greenhouse has a slightly different approach. Remove up to 10 cm of the top layer of soil to kill pests, and then place fresh soil there. If it is not possible to replace the soil in the greenhouse, then it should be disinfected. This can be done using boiling water, a solution of potassium permanganate, copper sulfate and other methods.
Preparing the garden for winter includes sowing green manure in the fall. This is an important measure for obtaining a good harvest and fertile soil. Proper use of this solution allows you to save land, even when crops are grown annually in the same place.
Do not forget that before sowing green manure, you should take into account data on their compatibility with other crops. It is important to pay attention to plants that were planted last year and are planned to be sown. Taking this information into account, you should make a choice of green manure.
If you choose the wrong green fertilizers, it can ruin the future harvest. There is no need to place green manure underground. Such a measure will not bring any benefit and you will simply waste your time. Nutrient components are located in green manure. The worms will process this part of the plants. Planting and maintaining the development of green manure is all that is needed for good soil fertility.
The first step is to prepare the compost pit. It should be filled out in autumn period. At this time, there is enough organic waste on the ground. The bottom layer should be waste that takes a long time to rot, namely wood (branches, boards, etc.). Next you need to put food waste, grass and manure. You need to put leaves on top, then soil. Such a pile needs to be watered with EM preparations.
When you completely fill the space of the pit, you should cover it with polyethylene and leave it until spring. Until this moment, all elements will rot. Cold temperatures will not harm the processing process and you will already have ready-made compost at the beginning of the gardening period.
Mulching in the fall is an important step in growing your own vegetable garden. This measure allows you to give the soil the necessary amount of important organic substances, which will allow the land to have high fertility for a long period. It is the autumn period that is most favorable for this process. The harvest has already been harvested, and there is a lot of organic waste on the ground.
Tops, remains of vegetables and fruits, as well as other natural waste should not be removed from the soil. Add sawdust, leaves, plants on top of it all and cover it all with cardboard. If there is no complete thick sheet, then you can use cardboard boxes. This method of mulching will protect the soil from the cold and also allow it to become healthier.
Fruit trees can be insulated by mulching. The same organic waste is used for this. They are able to protect tree roots from cold conditions. However, you should not use dry grass, as it may harbor rodents. For each of the listed measures, you can find video instructions that will help you carry out the activities correctly.
Twice tillage and continuous loosening of the soil summer period do not in any way contribute to its improvement. Autumn tillage for vegetable crops should be done before the onset of persistent cold weather and the rainy season. The best time for such a task is considered to be the second half of September - the first ten days of October.
It is advisable to begin soil preparation by lightly loosening the top layer of soil and harvesting the previous crop. For such purposes, the easiest way is to use a rake. This will stimulate the germination of weed seeds for their subsequent harvesting using
harrowing. Professionals recommend using a Fokin flat cutter, which simultaneously destroys weeds and loosens the soil. Even if young weeds appear in the beds later, they will be destroyed when the soil is loosened in spring. Regular implementation of this work leads to the destruction of weeds such as dandelion, wheatgrass, coltsfoot, since only mature plants have outstanding vitality.
Most landowners prefer mechanical processing soil, which significantly increases the yield, and on overgrown with perennial grasses and uncultivated soils it simply serves as an indispensable agrotechnical technique.
When cultivating the soil with a cultivator, the milling cutter creates a fine-lumpy structure of the root layer, which is most favorable for the development of the root system. The rotation speed of the cutter should not exceed 200 rpm; this is considered the most suitable for this work.
Among other things, the motor cultivator allows for loosening row spacing, hilling and cutting furrows. Meanwhile, you should immediately take into account that the cultivator can only work on previously plowed soil. That is, if the area is turfed, then a walk-behind tractor will come in handy. In this case, the entire green mass is covered and mixed with the soil.
Many models of walk-behind tractors have a power take-off shaft, which allows the use of a variety of attachments. When using a tiller on a walk-behind tractor, the soil structure is especially fine, suitable for direct sowing of vegetable seeds and favorable for growing young seedlings. This soil treatment is used in greenhouses and greenhouses. In open ground, the number of factors influencing the quality of the fertile layer is many times higher, and “fluffy” soil is simply unacceptable for it.
Usually, cultivated plants need abundant nutrition. Cultivated soil almost doubles its volume due to the formed pores and wells filled with air. This also contributes to the rapid decomposition of plant residues and the formation of humus. Tillage stimulates root growth
plant system and allows it to penetrate deeper with less effort.
Deep tillage may be required every five years. Walk-behind tractors or mini-tractors with a set of attachments are suitable for this. Deep tillage increases the arable layer several times and improves drainage. This kind of work is especially beneficial when growing table root vegetables.
Note that southern soils require deeper loosening, while northern soils can be content with relatively shallow tillage.
In addition to loosening the soil, it is necessary to apply fertilizers - mineral and organic. During the loosening process, they are evenly mixed with fertile layer and in the spring, after planting, they effectively reach the roots. At the same time, the soil structure improves, which is required for good quality products.
During digging, organic fertilizers (compost, manure) are applied only to areas where cucumber and cabbage seedlings are planned to be planted next year (approximately 1 mg per bucket). Mineral fertilizers, except nitrogen ones, can be applied to all crops. The digging depth should be at least 20 cm.
If you want to deepen the arable horizon, please note that in in this case additional doses of organic fertilizers will be required. On acidic soil prerequisite there will be liming. After harvesting late crops (cabbage, parsnips, celery), the tops and plant debris (except stumps) should be finely chopped and buried in deep grooves across the ridge, leaving until spring. In such ridges you can not only sow ahead of schedule, but also the soil warms up better.
How to treat an area where nothing has grown for a long time
In the first spring, the sod area is dug up to a depth of 10 cm, turning the layer over, and left until autumn. In the fall, the area is dug up again, but to a depth of 20 cm. By this time, the turf is at a depth and no longer germinates. All that remains is to apply fertilizer and level the surface with a rake.
In the fall, the area treated in the spring is dug up again, but to a greater depth.
The following autumn, after harvesting, the plot is dug up to the depth of the fertile layer. By this time, the turf will decompose and the weeds will die. Subsequently, the soil is treated as developed.
Autumn tillage is considered much more effective than spring tillage. Moreover, in the spring you don’t really want to dig up the site, when all the work can be done by lightly cultivating the soil with a rake!
Autumn is a crucial time of year for a beginning gardener. The foundation of the future harvest is being laid right now.
In the fall, the soil is dug up so that large blocks remain (they are not broken with a shovel). The blocks will freeze, and with them the overwintering stages of pests and pathogenic microorganisms. In addition, frost loosens the dug layer, and moisture can freely seep deeper.
Cleaning up the garden is a good reason to organize a compost heap. You can throw plant debris into it. But only those not infected with diseases and pests. Pathogens and pests can be partially preserved in the compost, and then end up with it in vegetable beds. You should not throw weeds with already formed seeds into compost, since the seeds remain viable for 3-5 years.
Autumn sowing
In order to carry out autumn sowing, you will need good quality seeds. They will have to lie in the ground all winter. For such a case, it is better to purchase colored seeds (this shell contains a special disinfectant, and they do not need to be germinated, which is what is required for winter crops).
Before winter, carrots, lettuce, spinach, parsley and even cabbage are sown. But not in those places where in the spring the soil does not dry out for a long time or flooding occurs. Crops with small seeds and greens are sown no earlier than the soil temperature is close to 2-3 °C. In the central regions of the Non-Black Earth Zone, this occurs in the second half of October - the first ten days of November. If sown too early, the seedlings may die from autumn frosts.
About root vegetables
If the weather is dry and not frosty, then you don’t have to rush to harvest root crops. After all, in the fall, these vegetable crops grow significantly, gain mass and juiciness, and dry weather will improve their further shelf life.
Carrots and other root vegetables intended for storage must be perfect: smooth, without mechanical damage or signs of disease. All “uglies” are used for canning and processing.
OUR TIPS
Onion sets with a diameter of less than 1 cm are poorly preserved in room conditions and dry out quickly. It is better to plant it before winter.
For winter sowing of small seedlings, ridges are made and planted no later than October 15-20. Planting depth 4-5 cm; the distance between the rows is 20-25 cm, and between the bulbs - 15-20 cm.
Plantings are mulched with peat in a layer of 1.5-2 cm and covered with dry leaves.
Average and late varieties White cabbage is often harvested in one go. Cabbage intended for fresh storage is harvested at a later date (but is not allowed to freeze). Short-term frosts (4-5 °C) will not harm the heads of cabbage if they thaw on the vine before cutting.
Winter garlic is planted in such a way that it takes root before the onset of frost.
For planting, select the largest cloves, which are located with outside bulbs. It is better not to use those in the center for planting. Planted to a depth of about 5-6 cm. Clove from clove at a distance of 20-25 cm. Row spacing is wide - up to 50 cm. This is how garlic grows better. And it’s more convenient to care for it.
IMPORTANT!
On small areas can be sown in frozen soil in pre-prepared low beds.
In this case, sprinkle the seeds with dry soil, peat or humus, which were stored in a frost-free room.
The seed sowing rate before winter increases by 1.5 times compared to spring.
The planting depth on light soils is 0.5 cm greater than with spring sowing (due to mulching with peat).
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For uninformed and novice gardeners, all preparation of beds comes down to only digging up the earth, which may be true if the earth is not depleted perennial plantings, but what should those who, say, just purchased a dacha, where the previous owners had been growing all kinds of crops for many years, do? Or the newly purchased plot, although virgin land, has extremely poor soil? Today, dear summer residents, we actually want to talk to you about how to prepare the beds in the fall, namely, to share the long-term personal experience. There is a lot of different information and discussions on this topic on the Internet, but here we will talk about two simple but effective ways to prepare your beds for winter.
Cleaning the garden in the fall
To ensure next year's vegetable harvest, preparing beds in the fall is a necessary and important event. Work in the garden should begin with removing tops and weeds from the beds. Old grass is a favorite wintering place for garden pests and rodents, so preparing your beds for winter begins with thoroughly cleaning them.
Tops of vegetable plants, plant debris and weeds can be destroyed in two ways:
Fertilizer for the garden in autumn
Practitioners of natural farming unanimously urge everyone not to dig the beds under any circumstances. And even more so, you should not plow your plot in the fall, adding manure and other fertilizers - wasted work. It is better to scatter all fertilizers over the surface of the soil, without plowing anything anywhere. If you keep animals and have manure, great. It can be laid out on the vacant beds mixed with tops, leaves or sawdust. If there is no manure, there is no need to spend money on purchasing it (purchased manure very often introduces a huge number of diseases onto the site). It’s better to scatter ash over all the beds: the more, the better. Do not throw away branches when pruning trees and bushes, do not clutter garbage bins with rotten boards, and do not throw away newspapers, paper and cardboard. Burn it all and save the ash - one of the best organic fertilizers.
Another commandment of natural farming: return to the ground everything that cultivated plants have absorbed. In order for the soil not to be depleted, but to remain alive and fertile, it must be provided with big amount organics. When else is there plenty of organic matter, if not in the fall? Leave all the tops on the beds, cover them with a thick layer of leaf litter, pine needles, grass and other mulching materials, and you can cover everything with cardboard on top. Such mulching not only enriches the soil with nutrients, but also protects it from freezing. Don't forget about the tree trunks. They also need to be mulched to insulate the roots. All materials will do, except straw and hay: mice love to live in them.
“Siderata” are plants sown in order to increase soil fertility, protect it from weeds, and rid it of diseases and pests.
How do green manures work in the fall? Some of them gain good green mass by November (mustard, rapeseed, oats, peas) and, freezing in winter, act as mulch, i.e. cover the ground with a soft carpet, rotting in the spring and introducing additional organic matter and minerals into the soil, which green manures carried from the depths of the arable layer.
Other perennials (rye, alfalfa, sainfoin, lupine) also act as a protective carpet, but in the spring they continue to develop, pierce the ground with their roots, creating a system of capillaries and passages that allow air and moisture to freely penetrate into the soil. Due to this, soil microorganisms, worms, bacteria, and fungi multiply rapidly. All of them create humus, which increases soil fertility. Spring waters flow freely into the depths. There is no trace of erosion. The thick green mass of green manure in the spring provides an abundance of organic mulch, which covers the beds. Substances released by some green manures repel pests and prevent diseases from developing.
Video:
After harvesting in the greenhouse, you need to tidy up here, that is, clear the soil of all waste - seeds, roots, remains of stems and leaves, pests. The last one, by the way, is the most difficult and unpleasant. To destroy the larvae of various garden insects, the soil in the greenhouse must be disinfected.
There are several common methods for this:
Next, the beds in the greenhouse need to be fertilized. To do this, during the digging process, humus, manure, peat, superphosphate or potassium sulfate are added to the soil. The proportions of fertilizers are calculated depending on what will be planted in the greenhouse next year.
The top of the beds should be sprinkled with sand or ash and covered with straw. Another a good option preserve the warmth of the earth - cover the greenhouse soil with fallen snow. In the spring it will melt and saturate the dry soil with moisture.
Preparing the flower garden for winter
The rule has long been known: before winter, flowers go away without leaves. Of course, this does not apply to late-flowering bush asters, but order is order, and all above-ground parts of flower crops must be cut off. This is especially true for daylilies. As soon as the leaves turn yellow, soften, or even rot, they must be cut off immediately.
Typically, pruning is carried out at a level of 10 cm. For pruning, we use scissors or pruning shears, but under no circumstances should the leaves be torn off! After pruning, mulch the soil. Oddly enough, daylilies are very responsive to mulching with overgrown dill. That’s why I don’t throw away the dill stems on my site, but simply stack them until it’s time to mulch the daylilies. The stems of phlox also need to be cut off, even if flowering continues. By the way, even at this late time, phloxes can be transplanted to a new place with a lump of earth.
Phloxes love moisture very much, and autumn transplant, especially after the rains, only benefits them. At this time, you can scatter phlox seeds over previously dug soil, without even sprinkling, and in the spring you will get wonderful planting material.
To prolong the flowering of autumn bush asters (they are also called “Octobers”), you can water them warm water with added sugar: 1 teaspoon per liter. Asters will bloom even under the first snow.
In late autumn we begin covering roses and lilies. Our winters are unpredictable, so there is no need to overdo it with excessive insulation. If the winter is mild enough, roses under too much cover will simply die, lilies will soften and lose their ability to germinate.
Therefore, it is enough to trample the soil under the rose bushes and cover them with pine needles, and it is better to chop the spruce paws as finely as possible. The needles themselves will generate heat, mice will not get to the roots, and after snow falls, you just need to pour cone-shaped snowdrifts over each rose bush. Lilies should not be touched at all until the snow falls, and then do the same procedure as with roses.
The soil in a flower garden, as a rule, should be more fertile than even in a vegetable garden. Therefore, it needs to be improved in the fall.
Gladioli:
Do not try to prepare the soil for winter in one fell swoop over the entire area,
do it slowly, two or three beds a day,
otherwise your gardening work will turn not into a hobby and joy, but into hard labor.
Some people think that working for personal plot or in the garden it ends with the harvest. And only real summer residents and gardeners know that at the end of summer it is not yet time to rest. After all, next year’s harvest directly depends on the autumn work land plots. Autumn is the time to prepare the beds for the winter and spring sowing seasons. Farmers who grow organic berries, vegetables and fruits are especially diligent in this type of work.
Fertilizing the soil is of great importance. Experts in natural farming recommend and even insist that it is unnecessary and pointless to dig up the garden in the fall, and even add manure or other fertilizers in the process. The soil does not need to be dug up, but fertilizers need to be scattered over the surface of the entire area.
It is best to use only organic fertilizers. This concept includes much of what is considered ordinary garbage - dry branches of bushes and trees, rotten boards, any waste paper. After burning all this, ash remains - an excellent organic fertilizer. It must be scattered throughout the garden or summer cottage.
Another excellent fertilizer is manure. It is not advisable to purchase it from strangers - you can introduce a large number of different diseases into the soil. But natural waste from your pets can be mixed with sawdust or any herbaceous debris and spread directly onto the beds.
Organic fertilizers can be accumulated throughout the year.
Details about fertilizing with ash
Mulching the soil is an integral part of natural farming. It saturates the soil with the necessary amount of organic matter, makes it fertile and prevents it from becoming depleted. The autumn season is the most the right time for mulching. The harvest has been collected, but a large amount of organic waste remains on the site.
Everything that remains in the beds (tops of vegetable plants, waste of vegetables and fruits) does not need to be removed. Cover everything on top with fallen leaves or pine needles, sawdust or any herbaceous plants, and cover the top with thick cardboard or waste from cardboard boxes. This mulch layer will provide the soil with protection from winter frosts and will also enrich the soil.
The roots of fruit trees can also be insulated with mulch. Straw and dry grass cannot be used - mice will breed in it, which will then cause no less harm than the cold. But all other organic materials can be used by laying them out in the tree trunks.
More about mulching
If there is a lack of materials for mulch, you can sow green manure. Proper green manure is the key to normal crop rotation on any site. Green manure will ensure normal growth and yield for vegetable crops, even if they are grown in the same bed every year.
Take note!
Before planting green manure, you need to carefully read the table of their compatibility with other plants and crops. It is imperative to take into account what grew in this area last year and what is planned to be planted here next year. Vegetable crops can destroy each other's harvests if you do not take into account their compatibility with green manure.
Green manure does not need to be buried in the soil. This is a waste of time that will only waste time. Substances useful for the soil are found in the green mass of grown green manure. It will be processed earthworms and bacteria. All that is required from the owner of the site is sowing green manure and ensuring their normal growth.
First you need to prepare a compost pit. It is best to fill it in the fall, when there is a lot of organic waste on the site. At the bottom of the pit you need to lay out long-decomposed organic matter - these are large tree branches and other wooden waste. This first layer can be covered with food waste and grass clippings, feces and herbaceous vegetable residues. Cover the top with a layer of fallen leaves, then with earth and water it with a solution of preparations with effective microorganisms (EM - preparations).
After this, you can spread out a layer of any paper waste - newspapers, magazines, cardboard. Then again food waste, grass and vegetable tops, leaves and a small layer of earth, and a little EM preparation on top.
When the compost pit is completely filled with such layers, the top should be covered with plastic wrap and left until the compost ripens (until spring). He's not afraid winter frosts and cold. Until spring, the bacteria will do their job.
If your compost bin is full to the top and there is still organic waste remaining, you may want to consider building organic trenches or warm beds. For their improvement, all organic materials and waste that may be in the garden or at the dacha are needed. And such trenches and beds are useful for growing various vegetables. They will provide favorable conditions for growth and a large harvest.
Details about the construction of a warm bed
Mice and hares can cause great damage to fruit trees. They love to eat the bark of young and mature fruit trees. To protect these plants, you can use the tying method. Each trunk must be tied with wormwood or spruce branches. These plants repel rodents with their specific smell. Tying should only be done with the onset of severe cold weather.
This is another important stage of autumn work. After finishing work in the garden, you need to empty all containers of water and turn them upside down. All garden tools you need to carefully inspect and, if necessary, wash, dry, clean, sharpen, and lubricate. During the spring sowing period there will not be enough time for this.
In the fall, you need to take care of preparing seeds and replenishing supplies of preparations necessary for the garden (for example, a remedy for diseases and pests, laundry soap, soda, salt, tar).
Having worked hard in the fall, you can make your work much easier in the spring.
The richer the harvest you harvested, the poorer the soil in the garden became. Therefore, in the fall it is necessary to increase fertility and improve the soil structure. We will talk about soil cultivation technology.
With the right autumn processing Surface loosening of the soil in spring will be sufficient. Therefore, before the start of winter, it is necessary to have time to carry out all the main activities to prepare the garden for wintering.
First of all, the beds are cleared of tops and weed roots. After which the soil is saturated with nutrients.
Organic and complex fertilizers are added to any type of soil. mineral fertilizers with phosphorus and potassium. If you do not grow crops in this place every year, then fertilizers can be applied once every 3-4 years.
Improving the soil structure on the site
Don't know how to change the structure of infertile soil? We will suggest several effective ways.
On heavy clay soils, additionally add ash, sand, compost or leaf humus. Thanks to this, the soil will become loose and permeable. IN sandy soils add rotted compost, leaf humus or sawdust. This will help retain moisture in the ground. A acidic soils neutralized with chalk, dolomite flour or lime.
Most often, the soil is limed to a depth of 20 cm
How much lime should be added to the soil on the site?
We tell you how to properly lime the soil.
Autumn digging can be carried out two ways:
It is difficult to say unequivocally which method is better. But, whatever method you choose, do not break the earthen clods so that the soil does not freeze. By spring it will be saturated with moisture and become crumbly.
Digging is carried out with a shovel or pitchfork. As a rule, the depth of the bayonet of a shovel is sufficient. In places where you plan to sow early crops in the spring, it is better to dig the soil to a shallower depth (up to 15 cm). In this case, after the snow melts, the soil will dry out faster.
If there are a large number of earthworms living in the soil on your site, use only a pitchfork when digging. Because a shovel will disrupt the vital activity of worms - the creators of humus.
An alternative method of tillage is sowing green manure. A month after sowing, the roots of the plants are cut with a flat cutter and the green mass is left to rot right on the beds.
On light, uncontaminated soils, as well as floodplain soils, you can do without annual digging
Supporters organic farming they urge not to dig up the soil in the fall, but simply scatter manure or ash over the surface without embedding it in the ground. In addition, they advise leaving tops from harvested plants (without signs of diseases) on the beds and mulching them with leaf litter, pine needles or grass, and covering them with cardboard on top. By the next sowing season, all this will rot and become an excellent fertilizer.
Preparing the soil for winter in a greenhouse and a hotbed is slightly different. Perfect option- This is to remove a layer of soil 7-10 cm thick (pest larvae, pathogenic microorganisms, and fungal spores usually accumulate here) and replace it with fresh soil.
At the same time, you cannot take ordinary soil from the garden, since pests can also live in it. Prepare the soil yourself from organic matter (humus or manure), wood ash and sand or sawdust. Spread the soil evenly in the greenhouse and treat it with copper sulfate or potassium permanganate solution. Then place mulch on the beds (for example, straw, corn tops or spruce branches) and close the greenhouse.
It is not recommended to scatter the soil from the greenhouse in the garden or vegetable garden, because it contains a large number of pathogenic microorganisms. It is better to pour it in some place on the site and sprinkle it with lime. In the summer, the pile must be carefully dug up, and after 1-2 years it can be returned to the greenhouse or scattered on the beds in the garden.
But if it is not possible to replace the top layer of soil in the greenhouse, disinfect land in one of the following ways:
Spilling boiling water on the soil is a very effective, but not without its drawbacks method. A significant disadvantage of this method is that along with pests and pathogens, beneficial microorganisms also die. Therefore, after steaming, the soil must be spilled with a solution of biological preparations (for example, Baikal EM-1).
In winter, do not forget to throw snow into the greenhouse (its layer should be about 20 cm).
Snow will protect the soil in the greenhouse from freezing and fill it with melt water in the spring.
When the air temperature drops to 8°C, it is advisable to disinfect the greenhouse. You can fumigate with a sulfur bomb (the required quantity per unit area is indicated in the instructions). Before starting the procedure, all cracks in the greenhouse are sealed. Sulfur checkers are placed in different parts structures, set them on fire and quickly leave, closing the door tightly. Three days after fumigation, the greenhouse is ventilated. A glazed greenhouse can be sprayed with a solution of bleach or 40% formaldehyde.
Sulfur, bleach and formaldehyde are very toxic, so disinfection of the greenhouse should be carried out using a gas mask.
How to prepare a greenhouse for winter: useful tips summer residents
The summer season does not end after the harvest. There is still a lot to be done, including cleaning up the greenhouse.
Properly cultivate the soil in the garden in the fall - and next season you will be able to grow a rich harvest of vegetables and herbs!
The time has come to prepare the garden for winter, and today we’ll talk about exactly this... How we prepare the garden for winter in Natural farming! How to carry out winter planting of vegetables, flowers and herbs! What work needs to be done to restore soil fertility! Let's remember Warm and High Compost Beds! So, let's begin…
Let's remember what needs to be done in the fall in order to increase soil fertility:
1. We don’t dig the soil! Under no circumstances should we dig up the area; we leave the ground untouched.
2. We do not remove the tops from the site and do not burn them! We leave all plant residues in the beds. All tops from vegetables and flowers... Be it tomato or potato tops, cucumber or squash, beet or carrot tops... We leave absolutely all leftovers in the garden.
3. We sow green manure! Immediately at the moment we harvest, we sow green manure in the vacant bed. We leave the green manures uncut in the winter. And before winter we sow additional Winter Rye!
4. Cover the soil! Not a single piece of land should be left bare before winter! If you haven’t sown green manure, then cover the beds with a thick layer of mulch: leaf litter or straw are ideal for this! If this is not the case, then spread your own manure! animals, and cover the top with cardboard! We use rabbit manure and chicken manure...
5. Make warm or high compost beds!
6. Start a compost pile!
….If we don’t make warm beds or compost beds! We need compost, so we pay special attention to it. If we have ready-made compost, we spread it around the garden: under bushes, trees, and just in the beds. But this is too labor-intensive, so it’s easier to compost organic matter directly on the beds...
How and when to do it correctly?
In autumn, as I already said, you can plant almost all plants! Starting from trees and ending with vegetables. We carry out pre-winter sowings two weeks before severe frosts. Then, when no warmth is expected, the soil is frozen, and it’s only going to get colder ahead! For the Perm region this is from mid-October to mid-November. We rely on forecasts from weather forecasters.
To do this, we prepare the furrows in September, while the soil is warm. And in cold weather we sow seeds, sprinkle them with compost or coconut substrate, or rotted straw. If we didn’t have time to make grooves in the heat, then don’t despair.
If the soil is already frozen, and you suddenly decide to sow something before winter, then you can sow on frozen soil, and sprinkle on top with loose, fertile soil that does not become crusty. As a last resort, use purchased soil. And on top we mulch this furrow with a layer of rotted straw, a layer of at least 5 cm! The rest of the bed, where nothing was sown, must be mulched with a thick layer of mulch of at least 20-30 cm!
If groundwater close to the surface of the earth and the area is flooded, and the soil is heavy clay, then there is no need to dig a trench! We make a warm bed right on the surface of the earth! If the soil is sandy and there is always a lack of moisture, you will have to dig a trench 40 cm deep.
You can put together a box and install it in the garden bed. And we fill this box layer by layer with organic matter. At the bottom we put logs touched by fungus, rotten ones... Or large branches, but then we chop them with a shovel...
The next layer is again carbonaceous: old planks, straw, old hay, leaves, cardboard... And on top of this layer is again nitrogenous: food waste, manure, vegetable tops... so, a few more layers. In total, the organic layer should be at least 80 cm! Each layer also needs to be trampled down...
When laying such ridges in the autumn, it is important to spill the organic matter with water. The logs that we place on the bottom can be pre-soaked in water if they are dry... But usually we carry them from the forest, and the forest is always humid!
Microorganisms are better if they are local, adapted! There are enough of them in algae, in logs, in forest litter, in muddy slurry from the bottom of a ravine... Therefore, there is no need to buy EM preparations...
We cover the top of such a bed with inverted cut turf or a layer of fertile soil, and on top of it we sow green manure and sprinkle it with rotted straw! That is, this ridge should also not be empty in winter! Green manure sown in the fall will revive the garden bed and start the process!
And such a bed will be filled with a huge number of microorganisms and worms over the winter, and in early spring it will be ready for planting! Before others! She's full nutrients and is ready to feed and warm our crops!
The height of such a bed varies from 05 m to 1 m! The width is at least 80 cm and maximum 1.2 m, but you can make a terraced bed (with a height of 2 m), then we make it wider from 1.2 m to 1.5 m or even up to 2 m!
In such beds you can grow absolutely everything: fruit trees, berry bushes, vegetables, strawberries, potatoes... Everything!
There are no restrictions on the length and shape: you can make it winding, like a snake, in a semicircle, round around the perimeter of the site, or straight, so that it runs along the prevailing winds and is illuminated by the sun all day. See for yourself, decide for yourself!
If you feel that you can’t do it yourself, but you really want to create a productive vegetable garden - a biocenosis on your site, but you are afraid that you will do something wrong, then you can get an individual consultation with detailed and step-by-step instructions, with the development of the site, etc. d. For this
contact me in any convenient way
That's all I have for now, but I won't say goodbye to you for a long time! There are still a lot of interesting and useful topics, follow the news. All the best!
I would be grateful for the response from everyone who is capable of doing an unconditionally good deed! You can help us, we really need your help! Do GOOD - and it will come back to you!
After harvesting, garden beds need to be properly prepared for the spring sowing season; the best time for this is autumn. In addition to preparing the beds, it is necessary to remove and burn the vegetable tops left after harvesting, and carry out a set of necessary measures to create warm beds. This article contains all the necessary steps to prepare your garden for winter. Proper preparation of the garden for the winter is a guarantee of a rich harvest.
In autumn, it is necessary to collect plant residues from the garden plot.
To ensure next year's vegetable harvest, preparing beds in the fall is a necessary and important event. Work in the garden should begin with removing tops and weeds from the beds. Old grass is a favorite wintering place for garden pests and rodents, so preparing your beds for winter begins with thoroughly cleaning them.
Tops of vegetable plants, plant debris and weeds can be destroyed in two ways:
Winter compost should be prepared slightly differently than summer compost. Vegetable residues that are not removed from the soil are suitable for composting. summer cottage, including not only vegetable tops, but also branches of trees and shrubs, weeds, household waste, animal manure, bird droppings.
It is very important that in winter the compost heap does not freeze, is not washed away by precipitation and is not exposed to wind, so it must be done according to all the rules.
It is very important to ensure the decomposition of the ingredients in the winter, for which it is necessary to prepare a rectangular shallow hole in the ground, at the bottom of which cut branches of bushes and trees are laid. Then folded in layers weeds, waste, layering them with manure and bird droppings.
It is useful to add double superphosphate, potash fertilizers, ash, lime or dolomite flour. For better air exchange, side and end walls laid with narrow poles. Height compost heap should not exceed 1.2 meters from the bottom of the trench, while the penetration into the ground is assumed to be 0.5 - 0.8 m. The heap is spilled with infusion of weeds, diluted with slurry. Soil is laid on top with a layer of 30 cm, the dock sides are covered with a thinner layer of soil and protected from rain.
The components included in the compost rot by the beginning of summer, allowing you to obtain a nutrient additive to the soil that doubles fertility, and at the same time get rid of garbage and weeds.
Tool for digging and loosening beds.
Preparing the garden for wintering includes digging up the beds, which can be done in the classic way by radically digging up the beds. In this case, large clods are not broken up, leaving them until spring. With such autumn digging, moisture is well retained in large clods of garden soil, so when leveling the soil in the spring, the percentage of moisture remains high.
The second option for processing a vegetable garden in the fall is to superficially loosen the soil to a depth of no more than 5 cm, for which a Fokina flat cutter is used. It is useful to mulch loosened soil with sawdust and ash; sometimes it is practiced to sow green manure grasses, the shoots of which are embedded in the soil when digging in the spring.
Preparing the soil for winter involves creating a balanced ecological system in the garden, closest to natural natural conditions using mulch and sowing green manure.
The roots of green manure penetrate deeply into the soil, loosening it.
A reliable way to restore soil fertility is to sow green manure, which does not require large expenses when planting. Green manure is one or more annual crops (mixture) that quickly increase green mass and develop a powerful root system. The root system of grasses penetrates into the deep layers of the soil, loosening and enriching its composition. The above-ground part of the plants serves for snow retention, is used as mulch when mowing, and is embedded in the soil (green manure).
Green manure is used based on its purpose and desired end result:
Sowing of green manure herbs can be done scattered or in rows in prepared beds after the autumn harvest of vegetable crops. A properly prepared garden will be able to provide a high harvest next year.
For early ripening of some vegetable crops, their seeds can be sown in beds in the fall. The harvest of winter vegetables is characterized by early ripening and high vitamin value.
In the fall, you can sow many garden crops; good yields can be obtained by growing carrots, beets, radishes, lettuce, dill, root parsley, celery, and spinach.
Beds for pre-winter planting of vegetables are selected in a dry open area, where the soiling of the beds by groundwater and melt water is prevented. It is useful to protect crops from the directional north wind, and also to mulch the beds with compost or peat. The seeds will be able to successfully overwinter under reliable shelter and produce their first shoots in early spring.
It should be remembered that seed consumption when sowing vegetables in winter can double.
Autumn is just approaching and the harvest has not yet been fully harvested. There is still a little time left and the beds will remain completely empty. This means it’s time to prepare the site for the upcoming season. This is done in order to prepare the soil, to supply it with the necessary elements for better cultivation crops next year and, accordingly, so that the harvest turns out to be rich and healthy. But we will tell you exactly what procedures and measures need to be carried out in this article.
Preparing beds in the fallEvery year the soil loses its unique properties that allow it to grow strong vegetation and harvest fruits at the end of the season. That's why she needs our help. Regular application of fertilizers with substances such as potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus helps compensate for the lack of these elements. We do not see this deficiency, but we can understand that it exists only by the condition of the plants.
Autumn is the optimal period to enrich depleted soil with various fertilizing and fertilizers, which will be absorbed and absorbed during the cold period. And when you start planting and sowing garden crops in the spring, they will be able to receive adequate nutrition, since over the winter the fertilizers have been processed by the soil into the form necessary for vegetation.
It takes some time for organic matter to take the form necessary for vegetation to perceive. That is precisely why, in order not to wait for spring and when everything is processed, it is necessary to introduce the nutrient medium into the ground in autumn. Over a long cold period, the elements will decompose into their components and will be ready to feed crops and seedlings before planting.
But fertilizers cannot be applied thoughtlessly. It is necessary to take into account a number of nuances, namely the condition of the soil, the quality of the soil. And also plan future plantings in advance, because the same complementary food is not suitable for all plants, so take this into account and build on all of the above to choose the right nutrient medium.
Fertilizers should not be applied thoughtlessly Now let's move on directly to considering the proposed topic in more detail, let's look at every nuance.
Gardeners often ask this question, because it’s spring and that’s when you can prepare the ground before planting vegetables. But this is not entirely the right way of thinking. Because, as we have already said, fertilizer needs time for crops to consume it for their growth. And in the spring there is already a lot of hassle: preparing seeds, growing seedlings, preparing holes for planting and planning the days for planting seedlings in the ground. Agree, this is a very labor-intensive process, and you simply may not have time to do everything.
Preparing the ground in advance This is why autumn preparatory work is very important. Having spent a little more effort in the outgoing year, you will be able to pay more attention to the planting work itself, because the site will be completely ready to grow a new crop. So don’t be lazy, and you can slowly plan your actions when spring arrives.
Preparation should begin with clearing the area of remnants of tops, weeds and other remnants of vegetation. If they are healthy, then put them in to dry out. compost pit, then you can use this to improve the quality of the soil. If necessary, you can add chalk or slaked lime to such fertilizers to normalize the acidity of the soil. If they show signs of disease, it is better to burn them outside the territory.
Preparation should begin by clearing the area of remnants of tops Pay special attention to weeds. They need to be removed with special care: root systems, creeping stems. The garden should be completely rid of them so as not to waste time on this in the spring, when they will grow faster than vegetables on the fed soil.
Now that you have cleared the entire area of weeds and their remains. It is necessary to start enriching the soil nitrogen fertilizers, potassium and phosphorus - they are suitable for all plants. Since nothing will grow in the beds, you can also add urea in the winter; it’s not difficult to calculate: 20-25 g per 1 m2; superphosphate complementary foods in a ratio of 18-20 g per 1 m2; potassium chloride in a proportion of 15-20 g per 1 m 2. Don’t be afraid to add chlorine; by the time spring arrives, it will no longer be in the soil. In addition, it is good to put a layer of manure, already rotted, in the proportion of 5-6 kg per 1 m 2 or deciduous humus at 3-4 kg per 1 m 2. Stove ash, wood ash or soot in a ratio of 250-300 g per 1 m2 will also be useful.
To lighten heavy or clay soil in the garden, add 1 bucket river sand for each square meter, after mixing it with compost. This will make the soil looser and increase its fertility.
And vice versa, if you have sandy soil, in which neither water nor nutrients, you need to mix it with clay, also a bucket per square meter, add compost in the amount of 5-6 kg per 1 m2, humus from leaves 3-4 kg per 1 m2, as well as sawdust 1 bucket per 1 m 2. Be careful with sawdust, as they can oxidize the soil, so make sure that when laying them, they are saturated with water and slightly ripe.
Be careful with sawdust, as it can oxidize the soil. Land with an acidity level below 6 units must be enriched with chalk or slaked lime. If the acid-base balance is less than 4.5, it is necessary to use limestone in an amount of 200-250 g per 1 m2. With indicators in the range of 4.6-5.5, add chalk in a ratio of 250-300 g per 1 m2.
All the described substances are added in the fall at the time of digging the garden. First, you spread it over the top layer of turf, then dig up the soil using a shovel full, mixing all the necessary ingredients with the soil.
There are two main ways to dig up garden beds: dumpless and moldboard.
You need to dig up the beds correctly Let's first consider the non-dumping method; it consists in preventing the layer of earth from breaking up and turning over. Thus, the beneficial microflora of the soil of the lower and upper layers is completely preserved. The resulting clods of soil should also not be broken up.
The dump method is completely opposite in action: the lumps need to be turned over and crushed. This method is most often used in autumn land preparation. This is the only way we can place fertilizers in the soil while distributing them evenly. But those who decided to spend the winter in the ground harmful insects and dangerous microbes will literally be pulled out. It is not recommended to break up lumps of soil that are on the surface itself, because deep freezing will occur. But if you intend to carry out the preparation completely and clearly delimit the beds, crush all the lumps. Then it is necessary to level the soil over the entire surface; this can be achieved by layering the soil when digging, making them several centimeters higher than the rest of the soil. Thus Sun rays in the spring, such beds will warm up faster than other soil on the territory.
We looked at the general features of how to prepare for planting in winter: applying fertilizing, coating, dump digging, layering the soil on the plots with increasing their level. But that's only general recommendations. But our task is not so much to find out the basic recommendations; it is to competently cultivate the plot for each individual type of vegetable crop. And all this is also carried out after the harvest, namely in the autumn.
To sow vegetables, you need to choose a well-lit place with well-drained and light soil. Then you can safely expect a good harvest of root vegetables. Optimally, plots should be prepared at rocks or loam, with a neutral acid-base balance. Other types of soil are not suitable for growing this crop, even with normal nutritional content. It should not be planted in places infused with water. And you should avoid planting in highly acidic soil.
Beds for planting beets It is better to plant a vegetable in the space vacated by cucumbers, zucchini, potatoes early varieties. Also good predecessors are varieties of early sweet peppers, eggplants and tomatoes. And it is strictly forbidden to sow table beets in place of spinach, carrots, rapeseed, cabbage and chard.
Be sure to lay a layer of compost during autumn preparatory work or leaf humus at the rate of ½ bucket per 1 m2 of one plot. Potassium chloride in a ratio of 12-14 g per 1 m2 and ammonium nitrate with superphosphate in a ratio of 22-25 g per 1 m2 will be good as a fertilizer with minerals.
Please note that in no case should you apply fresh manure to the soil during the preparation process, otherwise you risk growing a crop with a high content of nitrates in the coming year.
These vegetable crops are not at all picky and respond well to almost all fertilizers that we apply to the ground. They will also like almost completely rotted manure, at the rate of 3-4 kg per square meter of plot, but no more. It is laid for digging.
Prepares a plot for zucchini and pumpkin The soil must have a neutral acid-base balance. If your kidney has a high acid content, coat it or add limestone.
It is optimal to plant cultivated plants in places from under potatoes, cabbage, onions, root crops in general and after legumes. But you should not populate the area left by cucumbers, squash and zucchini.
Pay attention to the type of soil when great content clay, you need to add ½ bucket of humus and 1 bucket of river sand per 1 square meter and dig everything well. The same measures are necessary for general preparation in the autumn for pumpkins and zucchini. Fertilizers with mineral base also needed: superphosphate 10-15 g, ash 250 g and potassium phosphate 15 g - this will be quite enough.
Sandy lands can also be developed for growing zucchini and pumpkins; to do this, add a bucket of clay and ½ bucket of leaf humus per 1 m2 of beds.
Dill and other greens also cannot be planted just anywhere to get good harvest. They will successfully grow in a place freed from cabbage, tomatoes and onions. But don't plant herbs in a patch of carrots, parsnips and celery.
Landing place herbs Good illumination of the sowing area is also important; it will also be well heated. In the fall, cover the area planned for greenery with coniferous branches so that the snow lies there longer, so the land will be more fertile. Check the PH balance of the area. After all, vitamin bushes grow poorly in high acidity. Add lime or chalk to normalize the acidity level.
These plants do not require special preparation. Dig the bed no deeper than 23 cm, be sure to add 2-3 kg of rotted manure per 1 m2, 25-20 g ammonium nitrate, 8-10 g potassium sulfate, 10-12 g superphosphate per 1 m2. With the arrival of spring, you just need to loosen the soil well and arrange holes for sowing. It is also necessary to thoroughly water the plots at the rate of 2-3 liters per 1 m2 and compact the soil a little so that the seeds do not “drown”. The sowing holes should be 2 cm deep.
Tomatoes should be planted in the ground instead of beets, cucumbers, onions, leguminous plants, carrots, lettuce, greens, corn and zucchini. Late ripening cabbage, potatoes, eggplants and Bell pepper.
Preparing the land for tomatoes After selecting the location, you should begin selecting the soil type. The soil must be fertile. Excessively acidic soil should be fed with lime in a proportion of 150-200 g per 1 m2, but this will not work with any acidity. If the soil consists of sandstone or loam, then you will need to add 250 g of limestone per 1 m2 for digging; for medium or heavy loam, you will need to add 350 g, also under a shovel.
Take your time when applying fertilizer to the site. Prepare superphosphates, tomatoes love it, and simply distribute it over the entire garden bed without digging up the top layer.
Since tomato bushes grow tall, you should not make a raised bed for them. Limit yourself to dimensions of 23 cm wide and 100 cm long; you don’t need to do more in volume.
And of course, we allocate a plot for this vegetable crop. There are few places where you can find a garden where cucumbers do not grow. It is better to plant them after tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, legumes, spinach, onions, early varieties of cabbage, as well as cauliflower, carrots and greens. And you should beware of the place after cucumbers, melons, watermelons, pumpkins and squash.
Plots for planting cucumbers Try to prepare the soil in the fall and make it light. Loamy or sandy loam soil is most suitable for cucumber seedlings. Clay and heavy soils require the addition of sand: 1 bucket per 1 m2 under a shovel. The soil may be slightly acidic, cucumbers feel calm there, so if only such a piece of land remains, don’t worry.
And please note that it is also necessary to add 5-6 kg of rotted manure, and then dig up with a full shovel.
Autumn is also very suitable for building insulated beds. To do this, you will need boards to mount a box or box, as a rule, they are made 1 m * 2 m. In the bottom layer we put large branches, bark, thick plant stems, for example, corn, it can also be sawn logs and pieces of hemp or boards. Next, add a layer of sand, sawdust, chains, vegetable peelings and plant remains, even a layer of fallen leaves, humus and distribute the ash. When laying these layers, take into account the fact that there must still be soil on top, mixed with compost, up to 30 cm high, into which the plants will be planted.
Complementary food for warm beds If you have a question about the need to mulch the beds that you have so carefully prepared, then yes, of course this activity needs to be carried out. Created on the basis of pure organic substances, it will in no way be able to harm or affect the active life of all beneficial bacteria in the plots you have created. At the beginning of spring, you just need to remove the spent mulch from the surface. The area is now ready to accept new plants, and fertile land will help to grow them.
