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» Preparing walls for wallpapering after plastering. Preparing walls for wallpapering. About the simplest and most cost-effective solution

Preparing walls for wallpapering after plastering. Preparing walls for wallpapering. About the simplest and most cost-effective solution

Wallpaper has been known since ancient China. And even today they are widely used to carry out repair work. And despite the simplicity of installing wallpaper, it is important to take into account several nuances. The walls need to be prepared for wallpapering. After all, without this step, the wallpaper will not last long, will look ridiculous and will not at all bring the expected results to the owner. What is included in such training? There is proven technology step-by-step actions that will help you cope with the task.

We clean the surface from old finishing material

Preparing the wall surface is mandatory requirement, if you need to paste wallpaper. If there is already wallpaper on the walls, but before gluing new ones, the old ones must be removed so that over time the tapestries do not fall off along with the old material, look perfect and last a long time.

Removing old wallpaper

The initial preparation of walls before gluing begins with the removal of old wallpaper. After all, further work cannot be completed without this stage. There is an opinion that it is enough to stick new wallpaper on old ones, because that’s how they used to do it. However, in today's realities such options are undesirable. Here are some reasons:

  1. The adhesion (adhesion) of old wallpaper has already weakened over the years. They don’t stick well, and after gluing, the canvas will soften and simply fall off under the weight of the new layer. Previously, single-layer lightweight wallpaper was used, which was firmly glued with homemade glue.
  2. New wallpaper will take much longer to dry, as the old wallpaper will also become wet from the glue, slowing down the drying process.
  3. Since the surface is not always smooth or the old wallpaper had a pattern, after it dries, unevenness will form on the new canvases and the appearance will deteriorate.
  4. Mold and mildew can develop under old wallpaper but are not visible. After gluing new ones, the problem will not be eliminated, but vice versa.


How can you remove old trellises so that the preparation is not in vain? There are several simple ways:

  1. Manual. This option is suitable for paintings that are already difficult to stick to the wall. Therefore, all that remains is to pry them from above with a spatula and begin to pull them down with your hands, tearing them away from the wall.
  2. Wet. If the products hold well and do not come off, they can be softened. To do this, notches are made on the surface with a special mole or claws in order to damage the upper protective layer and gain access to the base. After this, use a cloth or spray bottle to soak the surface with warm water. It should not flow down the wall; moderate wetting is important. All you have to do is leave the material to soak in and remove it manually. In this case, use a knife or spatula.
  3. Chemical method. In the store you can purchase special substances that make wallpaper removal simple. In this case, the wall will not be damaged in any way, and the mixture will not affect the human body. The packaging contains instructions on how to use the product. Usually it is enough to apply it to the trellises, wait and remove the weakened canvases. However, the cost of the substances is not small.
  4. Steaming. The steam heats up the adhesive layer, softens the wallpaper and makes it easy to tear off. For this method of preparation you need to have a steam generator. If there is none, then a regular or steam iron will do. It is enough to walk with a steam generator or steam iron along the wall. If the iron is not steam, then plain fabric moistened in water, applied to the wall and ironed. Afterwards the canvases are easily removed from the walls.

Important! It is better to work with small areas rather than the entire wall at once.

It is rare, but it happens that such preparation methods for removing trellises did not help. In this case, you will have to remove the coating with a grinder or a special cleaning attachment on a drill. But the preparation doesn't end there.

Removing paint material

Painted surfaces are common. And although removing the paint is quite problematic, it takes time and effort, it is important to remove it so that it does not affect the appearance of the trellises and their service life. There are three effective ways to remove paint material so that the preparation is beneficial:

  1. Mechanical, also known as manual or using power tools.
  2. Chemical.
  3. Thermal, through exposure to high temperature.


The cheapest, but most labor-intensive option is mechanical (manual). To work, you will need a chisel and a hammer, or a hand ax. Notches are made on the surface, after which the paint layer is treated with warm water. All that remains is to knock off the paint at a convenient angle. As for the mechanical method using power tools, a grinder or drill is used. Although this is fast, there will be a lot of dust and dirt in the room.


Advice! All preparatory work is carried out wearing a protective respirator or mask.

The chemical method is the easiest to implement. The only downside is high cost. To complete the preparatory process, you need to put on protective elements and work according to the instructions. The entire wall is treated with the product, and a sufficient amount of time is waited. As a result, the paint and varnish material will soften and can be easily removed with a metal brush. The post-wall is washed several times.

Everyone knows that when exposed to high temperatures, paint begins to move away from the surface and shrink. This fact helps to remove the old coating. To do this, you need to take a hair dryer or a gas lamp. However, there are a number of disadvantages, for example, when heated, they release harmful substances, and some types of paint are resistant to such temperatures.


It is noteworthy that these steps do not concern the preparation of walls for wallpapering in a new building. But the further stages will apply to both new houses and old ones.

Surface primer

Primer is a special composition that improves the adhesion of the material to the wall surface and reduces the consumption of adhesive. In addition, there are antiseptic compounds on sale that prevent the appearance of fungus or mold. It doesn’t matter whether the walls are made of concrete, brick, plaster or drywall. Primer is always applied; without it, preparation is not complete. The composition even prevents the formation of cracks.

What composition should I use to treat the walls? There are these types of primers:

  1. Acrylic primer.
  2. Alkyd.
  3. Mineral based.
  4. Deep penetration compositions.
  5. Products with coloring powder.
  6. With antiseptic additives.

A store consultant can advise which option is best to choose for a particular surface. In addition, the manufacturer indicates on the box what the product is intended for.


How is preparatory priming carried out? To work, you will need the composition itself, a paintbrush and a roller. It is easy to work with a brush on hard-to-reach areas, and with a roller on open areas. There should be no gaps. Before application, the wall is cleaned and dust and dirt are removed. After the first layer has dried, it is recommended to apply another one.

Plastering for wall defects

Curved, unfinished and damaged surfaces must be leveled, and the easiest way to do this is with plaster. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

  1. Prepare in advance required quantity mixtures. The preparation technology and proportions depend on the composition. There are exact instructions on the package.
  2. Since our task is to correct significant unevenness or apply plaster to bare walls, beacons are set. It is easy to level the wall using them using a broad rule.
  3. Plaster is applied to the wall using the throwing method, using a spatula, and the wall is usually brought to perfect condition.
  4. When the wall is dry, the beacons can be removed, and the resulting grooves are covered with plaster. The preparation is completed.

The most difficult and important thing in this work is to perfectly align all the beacons.

Sometimes the resulting base is used for wallpapering. But since the composition is rough and has dark color, single-layer and light-colored trellises cannot be glued. Only non-woven or vinyl-based products are suitable. But, as experience shows, it is better to putty.

Puttying for minor imperfections

If the wall is relatively flat and has minor flaws, then the best option for preparing the walls for wallpapering with your own hands is to apply putty. When the surface is smooth, but has only minor cracks, it is enough to remove them point by point, slightly widening them with a chisel and covering them with starting putty.


The sequence of preparation work is as follows:

  1. Preparation of putty. It should be taken into account that the material quickly loses its properties in its finished form and dries out. Therefore, it is better to prepare as much mixture as the worker can use within 30 minutes.
  2. With help wide spatula the mixture is transferred to the surface and evenly distributed over the wall. It is important to hold the spatula at the correct angle.
  3. It is not necessary to grout after the surface has dried, the main thing is to level the surface.


At this point, the preparation of the walls for wallpapering is almost complete. But, it remains to complete the finishing stage, without which the durability of the coating cannot be guaranteed.


Primer before wallpapering

It was described above why priming is so important during preparation. But since putty was applied after the first priming, it should also be carefully primed immediately before gluing the wallpaper.


Priming is an intermediate stage between wallpaper glue and canvases. And if you use glue and primer from the same manufacturer for gluing, you can achieve the most effective result at the preparation stage. The primer is still applied with a brush and roller, with a break for the previous layer to dry. It is important that the wall is cleaned of dust and dirt. After the soil has completely dried, the trellises are glued.

Although preparing to decorate walls with wallpaper will require additional time, effort and money, such manipulations will make the surface ideal for gluing wallpaper. They will look great and last as long as possible.

We looked at the technology for preparing walls for wallpaper, as well as the order of work. All that remains is to put everything into practice and enjoy the results.

Many people, dreaming of their own home, often fantasize about various topics related to the arrangement of their living space.

Some people dream of making a bar counter, others strive to create an elegant wooden interior in an apartment or house using lining and bamboo wallpaper.

Start of renovation in a new apartment, wiring and preparatory work

When purchasing a new home, every person always experiences a lot of positive emotions, but over time, people begin to think about how to turn this empty room without communications into a cozy family corner.

The main question that every owner asks himself: “Where to start repairing?”

Indeed, a huge number of cases “pop up” to the surface. In a new apartment, first of all, as a rule, electrical wiring is done.

Installation of electrical wiring on walls

When planning the electrical supply system for your living space, you need to thoroughly study the features of all rooms and schematically outline where the electrical points (sockets and switches) will be located.

It is this action that will determine how the tracing will occur. electric cable, and where the distribution boxes will be located.

Sketch the installation diagram

Each owner, when making repairs in his apartment, must know a number of recommendations and rules during installation, which are regulated by the following publications: “Rules for the installation of electrical installations” (PUE) and “Rules safe operation electrical installations of consumers" (PBEEP).

These are quite voluminous works, which are a postulate for the implementation of various electrical installation work. When organizing electrical wiring in an apartment, it is not necessary to study them completely.

Connect conductors using terminals

The main thing is to comply with the general requirements and the recommendations below:

  • When installed on a wall, the electrical cable must run strictly along horizontal and vertical lines,
  • distribution boxes must be removed from the ceiling at a distance of 20 - 30 cm,
  • when measuring and laying a section of an electrical line between a socket or switch and a junction box, it is always necessary to make a reserve of conductors of 20 - 30 cm for convenient connection and installation of elements,
  • all electrical components in the apartment should be 10–15 cm away from the corners of the room,
  • electrical switches in the room must be installed at a distance of at least 90 cm from the floor,
  • when installing sockets on the wall of a room, you need to climb the wall 30 cm or more,
  • In distribution boxes, it is recommended to connect conductors using terminal connections.

Some of the above requirements can be visualized in the diagram below.

Do not forget that a well-organized wiring of electrical lines in your living space guarantees the safety of working with various electrical appliances. Many experts recommend using VVG and VVGnG cables for organizing electrical wiring. The thickness of the conductors is selected according to the power consumption of the connected devices.

Preparing the wall surface before finishing

After you have completed the electrical wiring in the room, you can begin preparing the interior finishing work, which will be carried out on all planes of the apartment.

Before leveling and covering the walls of a new apartment, you need to take care of the evenness of the flooring. Many construction professionals recommend performing this process using self-leveling floors or gypsum-based self-leveling mixtures.

The use of such material makes it possible to create a flat floor in a short period of time on which the finishing coating can be installed.

Leveling the surface

Today, there are two popular ways to level wall bases. This is the performance of work using a plaster composition and the method of creating a plasterboard coating. Both methods are widely used in finishing work.

Leveling walls using plaster is a traditional way of creating smooth walls, which has been used for many years.

You can safely install finishing trim on leveled walls.

Before applying a special solution to the walls to level the surface, you need to set guidelines and understand how curved the wall is. The best assistant To solve this problem there will be a laser level or rule.

After you have found certain irregularities, you should make corresponding marks on the floor and ceiling. It is according to the created marks that the beacons (landmarks) will be set to create a flat surface.

Having set the guidelines and decided on the layer of plaster coating (2-4 cm), you need to install a special mesh (using mortar or dowels), after which you can throw a leveling compound onto it, evenly distributing it over the surface, relying on the marks (beacons).

Before applying to concrete or brick wall plaster coating, the base should be treated with a high-quality primer. This is necessary to improve the adhesive properties between the wall and the coating.

Installation of plasterboard sheets and organization of finishing wall coverings

The seams are sealed with putty

Repairing premises using gypsum boards is a quick, convenient and inexpensive option for creating flat wall and an excellent springboard for finishing work.

GKL is mounted on a frame made of aluminum profile or wooden blocks. This design is assembled quite quickly and allows you to create individual decorative elements in the apartment, which can even have a functional meaning (shelves, niches, built-in wardrobes).

Drywall is attached to the frame using self-tapping screws, which are then, like the entire surface of the material, covered with a thin layer of putty, which is a good base for any finishing material, and finishing walls on such a base will not cause much difficulty.

Finish wall covering

By leveling the walls and preparing the coating for the application of finishing material and various decorative elements, you will take a big step in bringing the renovation to its logical conclusion. It is worth choosing one or several types of products with which you will decorate the walls, creating an interior that you will like.

Putty plasterboard and a plastered wall are ideal for finishing with the most popular material - wallpaper.

Today there are many varieties of this product:

Each of the listed options has its own advantages and disadvantages. IN last years people tend to use natural materials. These include wallpapers made from paper, bamboo and leather.

Bamboo wallpaper - goes well with other decorative elements, made using wooden products(lining, imitation timber). This material is quite difficult to install (after applying the glue it cannot be bent), but it performance characteristics will please any owner.

In addition to wallpaper, wall painting is often used as a finishing touch. Paint is a universal material that goes well with any decorative elements (wallpaper, natural stone, ceramic tiles).

When choosing different finishing materials for one room, you need to imagine how they will combine with each other.

Wall decoration in a new building
Knowing how to decorate walls in a new building will allow you to significantly save on costs and create a pleasant atmosphere in the room.


Non-woven wallpaper is now very often used for finishing walls. This type of finishing material is quite versatile. It is easy to install and operate, waterproof, durable and capable of hiding some small defects on the wall. The choice of non-woven wallpaper can be made for any room.

Using non-woven wallpaper for walls

However, despite the simple requirements for the wall covering on which non-woven wallpaper will be glued, it is still worth preparing it. Today we would like to tell you how to properly work on the walls before wallpapering.

Preparing the walls

Wallpapering is not the most difficult task, especially if it is non-woven wallpaper, but it definitely requires a lot of patience. One of the most important stages of work is preparation for gluing. Mistakes made at this stage will certainly lead to worse results in the future, therefore it is necessary to adhere to the technology and do everything correctly. Almost any person can cope with this task; it will be enough to gather strength and show some perseverance.

The main thing is not to overdo the dismantling work and stop in time

Removing wallpaper

First of all, we need to dismantle the old wallpaper; for this we will need a sharp spatula and a large amount of water. It is better to choose a small but sharp spatula so that it can easily cut deep into the wallpaper material. We will need a large spatula for the next plastering work.

  • If there is old paper wallpaper on the surface of the walls, it will be difficult to remove it, use a large amount of water. Before removing, apply water and let it soak into the wallpaper before removing the old wallpaper.
  • If wallpaper on a non-woven basis was previously pasted, then, most likely, it will easily come off in whole sheets. However, in order to pour water behind the wallpaper, it is necessary to damage it, since it itself is waterproof.

To create a smooth and straight wall, after removing the wallpaper, we will need plaster. It is with its help that we will achieve a flat and smooth surface. Most often, wallpaper is torn off the walls along with parts of the plaster, since they were glued tightly.

Not the worst option for dismantling old paintings

Therefore, before gluing new non-woven wallpaper, or canvases on a non-woven basis, we need to create flat surface walls To do this, we use plaster, you can choose the well-known German Rotband, or other options.

Plastering

Wall preparation begins from the very beginning, with careful plastering of the surface. The first layer is applied as a base layer, up to a centimeter or two thick. The consistency of the plaster should be such that it can get into all the recesses of the wall. Irregularities up to a centimeter high are buried in the solution, and the wall becomes smooth.

Before the next layer of putty, called the “finishing” layer, it is necessary to prime the entire surface of the walls. This is done to strengthen the inner layer of plaster. For primer, use a special composition that can be easily found in the store.

Second finishing layer The plaster is applied after the primer has dried, the thickness of this layer varies from 1-3mm. This thin layer of putty removes all minor wall defects. Usually at this stage builders recommend choosing Vetonit, but no matter what finishing putty you choose, a second thin layer will help create a surface close to ideal.

Work on leveling the walls in the room

After the second layer of plaster has dried, the surface is sanded and the remaining minor defects are removed. Now the walls should be white and smooth, it will be easy to glue on them wallpaper cloth on any basis, all that remains is to resolve the issue with the soil.

The plaster walls are behind us, now we have to prime the walls again, but before gluing the non-woven wallpaper. Can be primed wallpaper glue, diluted in a more liquid consistency, or use a special composition, which is also sold in concentrate.

This time we are producing a primer to reduce the absorption of the wall surface. We need to ensure that the liquid from the glue is not immediately absorbed and the wall does not remain dry.

Anyone can cope with the task of priming

Now the walls are completely ready for gluing non-woven wallpaper or non-woven fabrics. Let us remind you that glue is not applied to such wallpaper, but only the wall.

Other options

A very bad option if you want to wallpaper a painted wall. Wallpaper does not adhere well to a smooth, slippery surface, so before gluing, we will have to remove a layer of paint from the walls.

This is a very labor-intensive task, but if we want to make a full-fledged repair, we will have to sacrifice time. All basic preparation for working with wallpaper will consist of removing paint from all walls in the room.

The paint on the walls varies

We can remove paint from the wall in several ways:

  • The simplest and lowest-quality option is to sand the surface of the walls, and in some places, use a knife to make notches and nicks. Then a primer is applied and the wallpaper is glued, but it will not stick well everywhere.
  • Another option is not the safest - the paint is removed from the walls with a spatula, for which it is heated using a hair dryer. This must be done in a respirator and with good air circulation, since when heated, harmful substances can be released from the paint.
  • The third option is very dusty and dirty - the paint is removed using a brush or an iron brush placed on a hammer drill or grinder. When sanding walls, a huge amount of dust is released, so the room needs to be insulated as much as possible: close all doors, windows and plug up the cracks.
  • The last option is to use special solutions to remove paint and varnish. This method is also quite dangerous, so take care of personal protective equipment.

After removing paint from the wall, before gluing non-woven wallpaper, the walls must be primed, since in their original form they absorb liquids very strongly. The concrete-contact primer copes well with this task.

This time, the dusty method was chosen to remove paint from the walls.

If the walls were badly damaged when the paintwork was removed, then we return to plastering the walls. If there is extremely large damage, it is even possible to plaster the walls using beacons. However, this method involves applying a large amount of plaster material.

Often there are walls that require a huge amount of plaster to level them. In this case, it is permissible to consider leveling the geometry of the room using drywall. Irregularities and defects in the walls are simply covered with gypsum boards.

Using plasterboard for finishing walls

Non-woven wallpaper adheres simply perfectly to plasterboard walls, but it also needs to be primed, but in this case you won’t need much primer material. Vinyl wallpaper on a non-woven backing will fit perfectly on smooth, prepared plasterboard walls.

Properly preparing your walls before you hang your wallpaper will avoid many problems in the future. Even if the repairs are carried out by amateurs, many difficulties in the work can be avoided by carrying out basic work on leveling the walls. In the future, all you have to do is enjoy the excellent renovation.

Preparing walls for gluing non-woven wallpaper
How to produce proper preparation walls for gluing non-woven wallpaper, the better to prime the surface, with wallpaper glue or a special composition


Preparing walls for wallpapering - step-by-step instructions

Often people try to decorate their home on our own, which ultimately gives a pretty good result. Preparing the walls requires a careful approach to wallpapering. Step-by-step instructions will help with this matter. It is important to take the procedure seriously so that problems do not arise in the future.

Preparing walls for wallpapering

1. Often in multi-storey buildings the walls have a less than ideal surface. Therefore, the preparation of walls for wallpapering must be done properly. In order for the result to please you in the end, you need to get rid of all the flaws and imperfections that interfere with high-quality repairs.

2. It is important to completely dismantle all the old coating. Do not give in to the temptation to glue new wallpaper onto a supposedly strong base of several layers. It is a mistake to believe that this will make your work easier. In any case, swellings could have formed under the old sheets in some places.

3. Such little things lead to the waste of gluing a new coating. In areas of swelling, the sheets simply begin to lag behind the walls. Also, such little things have a negative impact on the appearance of the room. Preparing walls for wallpaper is an important component of quality DIY repairs. It is during dismantling that all the flaws that need to be eliminated are revealed.

4. Preparing walls for wallpapering after dismantling begins with puttying. This is the step-by-step instructions. The surface must be brought to an ideal state using a special solution. As a result, the canvas will lie much better and smoother. It is also worth considering that light sheets will show through on a dark, spotted wall.

5. Therefore, preparing walls for wallpaper implies a unique order of work. Dark walls it is necessary to lighten them, despite the fact that they may be quite even. After puttying, you need to proceed to the next step. This will require a primer. After treating the walls with it, the adhesion of the paintings to the surface will increase.

6. In addition to the fact that the wallpaper will adhere better to the ground, the directional composition perfectly protects the walls from mold. A more professional primer is able to level out some uneven areas and holes. To do this, you need to resort to using a special thick primer. Therefore, during the general preparation of the walls, remove everything unnecessary that may interfere.

Treating walls before wallpapering

1. Regardless of the type of surface, it must be treated with putty and primer. After dismantling and fixing some problems and little things, proceed further. In any case, the coating must be treated with putty. If the wall is smooth, apply a thin layer.

2. Using putty, you will give the wall a uniform tone that will not show through the canvas. It is also worth paying special attention to the type of putty. The material should stick easily in the future. That’s why preparing walls for wallpapering is so important.

3. Step-by-step instructions help you avoid common mistakes. Often as universal composition acrylic mixture is used. This putty is considered unpretentious and suitable for any purpose. Wallpaper on such a surface lasts quite well and for a long time. Also, in the future you will not need to bother with major repairs.

4. It’s clear how to prepare walls for wallpapering using putty, now let’s move on to the next step. It is important to treat the surface with your own hands using soil. As mentioned earlier, it provides better grip on the walls with the sheets. The soil also protects walls and wallpaper from fungus.

5. As with putty, the primer should be selected based on acrylic. This composition has a lot of advantages, and it is odorless. The product dries quickly enough, the procedure takes 4-5 hours. Please note that this soil is not suitable for metal elements, corrosion appears.

6. If you decide to coat wooden surface elements, you should give preference to an alkyd primer. Acrylic mixture is also not bad, but alkyd is more suitable for natural material. Keep in mind that the alkyd base can take up to 14-16 hours to dry. Often, not many homeowners know how to properly prepare walls. Therefore, it is worth approaching the process responsibly and studying the materials market.

Preparing plasterboard walls for wallpapering

1. Do not assume in vain that preparing plasterboard walls for wallpapering makes the task much easier. Step-by-step instructions are also important in this matter.

2. Such panels must be coated with a composition directed against the formation of various fungi.

3. Drywall requires special attention, so finishing the walls with wallpaper will be quite difficult. Using a special device in the form of a sickle mesh and putty, it is necessary to seal all the joints and seams between the drywall panels.

4. This procedure is carried out without fail, so that during subsequent wallpapering the walls do not become deformed. Further plasterboard sheets treated with an acrylic-based primer. Wait for the composition to dry and you can proceed to the final stage.

Preparing walls for liquid wallpaper

1. This question has a number of peculiarities. Wallpaper in liquid form is distributed over the wall along with all the dirt that is present on the surface. As a result, some unevenness and stains remain. The appearance of the room is deteriorating.

2. Preparing walls for liquid wallpaper requires special patience and accuracy. Therefore, in order not to encounter the problems described above, you need to do everything possible with your own hands. Carefully walk around the perimeter and get rid of any dirt on the walls.

3. If you are faced with the fact that the walls are concrete or plastered and at the same time have fairly wide pores and minor irregularities, you need to eliminate this. Use gypsum putty, then apply 2 coats of primer.

4. Wait for it to dry, evaluate the surrounding environment to see if there are any defects in the form of pores or irregularities. If everything is in order, treat the walls with a white base for liquid wallpaper. This move will help to avoid showing through flaws that you did not notice. After the base has dried, liquid wallpaper is applied.

Preparing walls for wallpapering requires patience and some skill. Step-by-step instructions will help you avoid common mistakes. Don't rush anywhere and do everything conscientiously. There is nothing complicated about the repair. The main thing is to take into account all the little things, so as not to redo it again later. Happy renovation!

Preparing walls for wallpapering - step-by-step instructions
Preparing walls for wallpapering Means for treating walls before wallpapering Preparing plasterboard walls - step-by-step instructions Preparing walls for liquid wallpaper

Aligning the walls with wallpaper is a mandatory procedure before pasting. There are no ideal surfaces; you can almost always find flaws even in new buildings, where apartments are being prepared for finishing, and therefore, before gluing roll materials, you must perform the following steps:

  1. dismantle the old coating;
  2. remove irregularities, seal cracks and cavities on the surface;
  3. if necessary, level the base using plaster mortar or plasterboard;
  4. apply primer.

How to remove old wallpaper

For each type of wallpaper (non-woven, vinyl, paper, photo wallpaper and liquid wallpaper) there are various ways removal. Universal ways There is no way to remove the old coating, so you should consider the most effective and proven options.

To get rid of the standard paper wallpaper, required hot water, roller or spray, spatula. Old wallpaper needs to be moistened generously hot water, after which the glue will soften and the trellises can be removed in whole strips, prying up the edge with a spatula.

Before performing these procedures, turn off the electricity in the room to avoid short circuits. It is recommended to cover the floor with plastic film, and move all furniture to the next room. To more effectively remove paper wallpaper, you can add ingredients of your choice to the water:

  • 50 grams of crushed laundry soap per 10 liters of water;
  • 10 ml fabric softener per 10 liters of water;
  • 30 ml table vinegar per 10 liters of water.

For removing paper wallpaper from plasterboard surface It is recommended to use a highly diluted adhesive solution (5 times the water norm); there are also special dry or liquid compositions for removing old wallpaper.

Vinyl wallpapers They have increased moisture resistance, so this type of coating cannot be removed with water. If the structure of the vinyl wallpaper has retained its strength, you can try to remove it “dry”.

To do this, you need to carefully move the spatula to the bottom edge of the wallpaper and peel off the vinyl surface moving upward, and the remaining paper base is removed according to the general principle using hot water. If it is impossible to remove the vinyl layer, they usually resort to making cuts along the entire height of the trellis, after which they apply water, which penetrates into the paper base, and clean off the sheets with a spatula.

Non-woven wallpaper they are glued to high-quality and durable glue, which is very difficult to remove from the wall, so in this case, first remove the trellises using hot water and a spatula, and then clean the surface of the wall from glue.

Cope with adhesives such as MC and KMC It can be done by steaming, for which an electric steam generator is used. If you don’t have such a tool, you can use an ordinary iron and a piece of dense natural fabric for the same purposes.

The fabric must be moistened generously with hot water, lightly wrung out, then thrown over the wall and ironed at maximum temperature. Steamed trellises can be easily removed in large pieces; in some cases, you can help a little with a spatula.

Liquid wallpaper can be removed in any way, and to remove glass wallpaper You will need to purchase ready-made solutions and follow the manufacturer's instructions.

How to remove old paint

In the recent past, walls in kitchens were most often painted with oil paint, but modern roll materials, for example, vinyl wallpapers, are not inferior in strength and water resistance to paint and varnish coating, so you should consider the possibility of installing wallpaper in rooms where the wall surface was previously painted.

It is impossible to glue wallpaper onto a painted surface (or rather, it is possible, but with preliminary preparation, which will be discussed in a separate article on our website) - there is no adhesion. Therefore, before proceeding with installation roll materials, you should get rid of the paintwork.

Removing the old coating is not easy; for this process you will need the following tools:

  • for mechanical paint removal: a machine with a cutting wheel and various attachments, scraping tools (knife, chisel, axe, spatula);
  • for removal using chemical reagents: solvent for a specific type of paint, brush;
  • for thermal paint removal: blowtorch, hair dryer, spatula;
  • protective equipment: respirator, safety glasses and overalls.

Take off paintwork mechanically - a labor-intensive task, but it is safer for health than other methods. The impact on the painted surface is carried out using a power tool with various attachments or an ax; bubbling paint can be easily removed with a spatula, in hard to reach places you will have to use a chisel or knife.

To remove paint by using chemical substances You will need to purchase special removers or solvents. The substances are sprayed or brushed onto the surface, wait, according to the instructions, for a certain period of time, and then remove the paint using a spatula.

The disadvantages of this method include the following factors:

  • high cost of chemicals;
  • Each layer of paint will require a new portion of solvent;
  • the unpleasant smell of solvent lingers in the room for a long time even with active ventilation;
  • All work must be carried out in special protective equipment.

Using traditional methods, you can inexpensively prepare walls for wallpapering. Step-by-step instructions for preparation and use cleaning solution at home:

  1. Take 250 ml ammonia, 1000 ml of water and stir.
  2. IN ready solution add 2000 grams of building chalk and stir.
  3. Apply the finished mixture to the surface and wait two hours.
  4. The paint is removed along with the dried layer of the mixture using a spatula.

When the paint is exposed to heat, the surface layer of paint softens, after which it can be easily removed with a spatula. This method is associated with increased release of caustic fumes into the air, so the use of a respirator and protective mask is mandatory.

If you don’t have a blowtorch or a hair dryer at hand, you can work on the painted surface regular iron by heating the wall through a paper pad or foil.

How to repair cracks

Sealing cracks is one of the main processes for preparing walls for wallpaper. The order of work when chips and cracks are detected is as follows:

  • It is necessary to prepare tools and materials: spatulas (wide and narrow), a brush 150 mm wide, sandpaper, putty, reinforcing mesh.
  • The edges of the detected crack should be expanded using a spatula.

  • The surface around the crack must be cleaned with sandpaper.
  • Small particles and dust are removed from the crack.
  • Using a brush, the inner surface of the crack and the wall around it are treated with a primer, at a distance of 5-7 cm from the edge of the crack.
  • Using a spatula, put putty into the crack. Nowadays, acrylic sealant is more often used, which is squeezed into the repair site with a mounting gun.

  • When the repair compound has dried, a thin layer of putty is applied to the tear site and a reinforcing mesh of the required size is glued.
  • After the solution has dried, a layer of putty is applied over the reinforcing mesh and leveled with a spatula.
  • The completely dry patch is sanded with sandpaper or a sander.

If repairs are being carried out in a recently completed new building, you should make sure that the cracks do not tend to expand and increase in length; this process often occurs when the house shrinks.

To fix the initial position of the crack, just make a mark with a pencil on the wall. If the process is dynamic, you should postpone the repair, since the putty will simply fall out of such a crack, and the work will have to be done again.

In most cases, to fill large cracks, it is better to use a standard cement-sand mortar and grout with gypsum-based putty.

Alignment

If the surface to be glued has significant vertical differences, it is recommended to produce sheets of plasterboard. It will be difficult to carry out plastering on your own, without some experience, but even a beginner can handle the installation of gypsum boards.

Plastering

Plastering walls under wallpaper is done if it is necessary to level the surface with vertical differences of up to 30 mm. Plastering the walls in the room begins with placing beacons. There are several ways to install guides, but most often finishers use special metal slats, which are installed level on the gypsum or plaster mortar.

The width between the slats should not exceed the length of the rule. Before preparing the walls for wallpapering using plaster, the base must be primed.

Plastering is carried out in stages:

  1. the surface is treated with a primer;
  2. the first layer of solution is applied - spray;
  3. the second layer (primer) is applied after the first has dried;
  4. For final leveling surfaces are prepared with a solution with a high cement content;
  5. After the finishing layer has dried, the surface is grouted and polished.

The solution is applied from bottom to top between the beacons, starting from the lower left corner of the room, gradually moving to the right. It is necessary to properly level the plaster layer, pulling the mortar from the bottom up, removing excess mixture and filling in places where there is not enough mortar.

Drywall

How to align walls with wallpaper if there are significant (more than 40 mm) vertical differences? In such a situation, they traditionally resort to installing plasterboard, but residents of small-sized panel houses and “Khrushchev” buildings are better off using other methods of wall leveling, since the plasterboard base eats up to 100 mm.

Owners of private wooden houses should also be careful with the use of gypsum boards - if they do not live in the house permanently, a change in humidity and temperature regime, which leads to destruction of the material.

Drywall is usually mounted on a lathing made of metal guides, which, before installation, are secured to the concrete base using dowels, first leveled or laser level. The joints of the sheets must be glued with serpyanka and plastered, and each corner is also treated. Before pasting, the prepared surface should be primed with a wallpaper primer.


If the vertical differences are less than 40 mm, the sheets can be mounted using glue, for which a thick layer of adhesive solution is applied to the wall surface and the gypsum board is pressed against it. By tracking the vertical with a level, the sheet is either pressed harder, or vice versa, the pressure is eased, achieving the required position. This method is not reliable, since after the glue has completely dried, shrinkage occurs, which can lead to the appearance of voids and cracks in the plasterboard.

Priming before wallpaper

To properly and efficiently prepare walls for gluing with your own hands, it is imperative to treat the surface with a primer. The primer ensures higher adhesion of the adhesive to the wall and wallpaper, and also serves as an additional means for leveling the surface, removing fine dust and smoothing out porosity.

A primer is available for each type of surface: concrete, wood, plasterboard, cement-based or gypsum-based plaster. The procedure for using the primer depends on the material being processed, but the following step-by-step algorithm is usually used:

  1. The base is cleared of small fractions dirt and dust;
  2. Begin treatment with a primer solution diluted with water. The more liquid composition is rough and provides preliminary impregnation of the base;
  3. The finishing layer is prepared at normal consistency and applied after the first layer has completely dried, which is completely absorbed quite quickly, in 3-4 hours;
  4. On large surfaces the primer is applied with a roller, and in the corners of the wall it is treated with a brush 150 mm wide.

How to prepare walls for liquid wallpaper

If the decision has been made to decorate the walls with liquid wallpaper, the task of preparing the surface is somewhat easier, since in this case there are no requirements for a perfectly flat base. So, how to prepare walls for this type of wallpaper:

  1. At the first stage, it is necessary to clean the wall of old coating and dirt.
  2. If excessive porosity of the surface is detected, it is recommended to apply one layer of gypsum-based leveling plaster.
  3. Next, treat the surface with a primer. If work is carried out in old houses, it is recommended to carry out double primer treatment.

A mandatory procedure before installing liquid wallpaper is the application of water-based paint. According to the technology, it is recommended to paint the walls white or other in a light tone, in this case the base will not show through with both dark and light finishing coating material.

Video on the topic

Having appeared just over a century ago, wallpaper has changed dramatically, thereby changing the technology of pasting. At the same time, all the metamorphoses have occurred mainly over the last 20-30 years - if someone knows only the old methods and techniques of working with paper trellises, in modern realities they will not be able to properly hang wallpaper, since newspapers will no longer help here. New types of trellises require a different approach when preparing walls for their subsequent wallpapering. Why has technology changed so much and how to prepare walls for wallpaper?

The need for preparatory work when pasting walls with trellises is determined by three factors:

  • The use for construction of new types of wall materials (foam concrete, gas silicate, etc.) that do not hold trellises on their surface without prior preparation;
  • Pasting in some cases a smooth surface on which the glue does not hold the wallpaper well;
  • Production of heavy or very thin types of wallpaper. In the first case, problems arise when creating conditions for strong adhesion between the wall surface and the wallpaper; in the second, all the defects of the surface being pasted immediately catch the eye, since modern trellises do not hide them, but stick out.

In this regard, in the process of preparing walls the following tasks must be solved:

  • Creating good adhesion between wallpaper glue and wall material. There are two problems here: the porosity of many building materials and the smooth surface of concrete, glass, tiles, etc. In the first case, approximately 50% of the wallpaper area is in contact with the wall, which leads to constant peeling of the wallpaper and unraveling of the seams. During the preparatory work, the pores are stopped on the surface wall material a continuous film of primer is created, ensuring ideal adhesion between the wall and the adhesive applied to the trellises. In the second case, it is necessary to create good adhesion of the wallpaper to the wall - the problem can be solved by applying special primers.
  • Aligning walls with wallpaper. Modern wallpaper, both thin and dense, does not hide even minor unevenness of the walls. This is especially noticeable in daylight. Therefore, eliminating wall defects is one of the most important tasks during the preparatory work.
  • Fighting mold and mildew. This seemingly minor task actually helps solve the eternal problem of plaster - the appearance of microorganisms in cracks and crevices in damp rooms and on walls - cold and moisture coming from the street create ideal conditions for the growth and reproduction of mold and various types fungi.

The variety of tasks to be solved when preparing walls for wallpapering breaks down the step-by-step instructions for the complete technological process into independent blocks: preparation of walls, their repair and leveling.

Stages of preparing walls for taping

How to prepare walls for wallpapering? Work on preparing walls for gluing consists of several sequential technological processes.

  1. The preparatory stage that completes construction and installation work in a new building. There must be: the work of laying the floor screed has been completed; electrical wiring completed; door (window) frame installed; Built-in furniture is installed.
  2. Old wallpaper and paint are removed from the walls, nails and screws are removed.
  3. The quality of old plaster is checked by tapping it with a hammer. When dull sounds appear, the wall is cleared of the plaster layer.
  4. Chips and peeling are repaired, microcracks are repaired.
  5. The walls are washed if necessary (oil stains, soot, dirt are washed off).
  6. A primer is applied to create good adhesion between the wall and the plaster layer.
  7. Beacons are displayed.
  8. The walls are plastered with cement-sand mortar.
  9. The applied plaster layer is primed and putty is applied.
  10. The final stage of preparation is priming the surface for taping with trellises.

Materials and tools

To carry out the preparatory work, the finisher, regardless of whether he is a beginner or an experienced builder, must have a variety of tools and devices. Their set is dictated by the type of covering to be removed: trellises, paint or plaster; wall type:

  • brick;
  • concrete;
  • wooden;
  • plasterboard, etc.

The owner of a house or apartment who carries out repairs on his own needs tools and materials for specific situation, and therefore there is no need to provide a general list of everything that will be required during the repair.

To easily navigate necessary materials and instruments, their the list will be given before the description of each type of work. The only thing you should always have at hand is a stepladder or portable platform (horses). Therefore, there will be no further mention of this device.

Preparatory work

Preparing walls for wallpaper will have the following order of work:

  • free the walls from old decoration and, if necessary, from plaster;
  • repair cracks, chips, fill masonry joints for plaster;
  • level the wall surface with plaster or drywall;
  • apply primer under the pasting.

Wall cleaning

Preparing walls for wallpapering with your own hands begins with cleaning the walls of old wallpaper, paint or plaster. At the same time, each type of technological operation has its own correct techniques and methods. Let's look at them in more detail.

Wallpaper

How to remove old wallpaper? To do this you need:

1. Clear the walls of furniture - take it into the next room or move it to the center of the room and cover it with polyethylene film.

2. Turn off the electricity in the room being repaired, remove sockets and switches.

3. Collect the necessary tools and equipment:

  • paint roller (can be used), sponge or rags;
  • set of spatulas;
  • knife (kitchen or construction);
  • bucket for hot water;
  • "wallpaper tiger";
  • metal brush;
  • iron;
  • a piece of fabric (old T-shirt, towel);
  • garbage bags;
  • individual protection means.

4. Buy more if you don’t have a home:

  • laundry soap - a quarter of a piece ground into shavings (in a bucket of warm water) will speed up the process of removing wallpaper;
  • fabric softener - one cap of the product will give an effect similar to ¼ bar of soap;
  • table vinegar (9%) - 5 tbsp. spoons in a bucket of hot water will help you quickly and easily clean the walls of old trellises;
  • MK wallpaper glue - diluted to the consistency of kefir (5 times more water than indicated on the package) quickly softens wallpaper, indispensable when removing wallpaper from drywall;
  • special compositions - can be bought in liquid or dry form, allow you to remove all types and types of wallpaper from the walls, regardless of the type of glue with which they were glued (see photo).

The methods for removing trellises are influenced, first of all, by the type of glue and the type of wallpaper: paper, non-woven or vinyl. For example, warm or hot water is always used for modified starch (MS) glue, but some methods are used for paper wallpaper, and others for non-woven and vinyl. If you know the little secrets, the work won't take long.

How to quickly remove old wallpaper from a wall glued with MK glue? For trellises that have been hanging on the wall for more than 8 years, the procedure is very simple. Sections of wallpaper that are lagging behind the wall are cut with a knife. A narrow spatula is inserted into the resulting cracks.

The wallpaper sheet pulls towards itself very slowly - if it moves quickly, the paper will tear due to age. The remaining trellises on the wall are scraped off with a knife or spatula blade. The process can be accelerated if such areas of the wall are moistened with heated water and given time (about 20 minutes) for the paper and glue to soften.

How to remove paper wallpaper from walls when they have been in use for a short period of time? If the trellises have been hanging for less than 4 years, they are moistened with warm water. A roller or sponge is suitable for these purposes.

Usually work is carried out not on the entire wall, but on several canvases. After soaking 4-5 wallpaper sheets, they are “forgotten” for 20 minutes. This is enough for the glue (due to the starch it quickly becomes liquid) and the paper to become saturated with water. After that, the wallpaper is removed with a spatula and a knife.

However, this procedure is completely unsuitable for vinyl trellises - upper layer wallpaper does not allow moisture to pass through. Then how to quickly remove vinyl wallpaper from a wall? There are two ways here.

  1. Use a knife to pick up the vinyl layer and tear it away from paper base. Then proceed in the same way as with paper wallpaper - warm water, spatula and knife.
  2. Use a knife to make cuts on the trellises (you can use a “wallpaper tiger”) and moisten them. Penetrating under vinyl film, water wets the glue and paper, after which the wallpaper easily comes off.

There are some peculiarities when removing paper wallpaper from drywall. Here the soaking process is completely eliminated - water will not only soften the glue and trellises, but also damage the plaster. In this case, liquid wallpaper glue will help.

He's being scammed big amount water (4-5 times more than indicated in the instructions) and smear the trellises. Wetting the paper web and the glue with which the trellises were glued, such a composition is not able to completely saturate the gypsum board cardboard with water. You can remove the sheets with a spatula and knife after 20-30 minutes. Such methods are not suitable for PVA, MC and CMC glue.

How to quickly remove wallpaper from walls glued with modern high-quality types of glue and PVA glue? PVA glue has the most problems. It must be removed in two stages: first the wallpaper, then the glue itself.

Water-permeable trellises treated with hot soapy water. To do this, a piece of laundry soap is crushed, diluted in 4 liters of water, brought to a boil and immediately applied with a roller to the wall. After 15-20 minutes, the trellises can be removed without problems.

They do not process the entire wall, but a part. After removing the wet wallpaper, the remaining adhesive is scraped off with a spatula or a metal brush, and the wall is washed. Then the solution is heated and work continues in the same order.

For water-repellent wallpaper make a solution with fabric softener. For single-layer trellises, 0.3 liters of conditioner per bucket of water is enough; for double-layer trellises, pour twice as much detergent into the water.

The instructions are simple:

  1. approximately 2 m2 of wallpaper is wetted;
  2. after 10 minutes the next 2 m 2 walls are wetted;
  3. after 20 minutes, the wallpaper is removed in the place where the primary soaking was carried out;
  4. the remaining glue is scraped off with a wire brush;
  5. the next area (2 m2) is soaked, etc.

MC and CMC glue is destroyed either by steaming or when treated with special removers.

Professional builders use a steam generator or steam cleaner, but not every home has one. An iron and a linen towel (any natural fabric without synthetic additives) will come to the rescue.

The technology is as follows:

  1. the fabric is lowered into the water, then twisted not very much;
  2. the iron warms up to maximum temperature— here you need an extension cord to connect to electricity from another room;
  3. the towel is applied to the wallpaper, and, pressing firmly, it is ironed - 5-6 times;
  4. The trellises are scraped off from the steamed area with a spatula.

This operation is repeated until the wallpaper is completely removed from the walls. The work is not fast, it takes a lot of time. But in practice it is the best option.

Special washes sold in the form of powder or jelly can speed up the work. Their manufacturers claim that the products are completely safe for the health of people living in the apartment. But, still, it is better to work with gloves.

The solution is prepared in accordance with the recommendation on the packaging. Apply to the wall with a roller. On waterproof trellises, it is necessary to apply perforations with a knife or “wallpaper tiger”. The removers need 2-3 hours to dissolve the adhesive mass, after which the wallpaper will come off the wall on its own.

Liquid and photo wallpapers can be removed by any of the above methods, glass wallpaper- only with washes. When removing glass wallpaper, there is a little secret: you need to remove one sheet at a time and be sure to pull it from top to bottom.

Dye

It is impossible to carry out plastering work on a painted wall to level its surface or apply simple putty - neither cement nor gypsum has adhesion to paint. Therefore it needs to be removed.

Attention: painting the wall is not an obstacle to wallpapering. In many cases, it is possible to glue trellises directly onto the paint layer (see work “”).

To clean the paint layer from the wall you must have:

  • personal protective equipment;
  • blowtorch;
  • grinder;
  • axe;
  • various attachments for a hammer drill or grinder;
  • putty knife;
  • chisel;
  • paint remover;
  • brush.

Using the tools listed above, paint can be removed:

  • using chemistry - special solutions (washes);
  • heating the surface of the walls - thermal method;
  • mechanically - the paint layer is removed with power tools.

Chemical method is based on the ability of special chemical mixtures, for example, “Prestige” gel, “Antikras” remover, etc. to dissolve all types of paints. Wherein:

  • the drugs are quite expensive;
  • remove only one layer - if you paint multiple times, you will have to dissolve each layer separately;
  • a pungent odor lingers in the room for a long time;
  • Remnants of flushes should absolutely not be flushed down the toilet - special disposal is required;
  • the worker must be dressed in a chemical protection suit;
  • upon completion of work, mandatory water procedures.

Conclusion: the method is effective, but has a whole bunch of negative side effects, which is why it is better to abandon it.

The conclusion drawn applies to purchased washes. You can prepare them yourself and not have these problems. Several recipes:

  • 0.25 liters of ammonia (10%) is poured into 1 liter of cold water, 2 kg of construction chalk is added and mixed thoroughly. The resulting mixture is evenly applied to the paint and after 2 hours they begin to remove it (the composition does not destroy the paint layer, but disrupts its adhesion to the wall surface - it is removed in layers);
  • Mix 1.2 kg of quicklime and 0.4 kg until thick sour cream soda ash. Apply to the wall and let it soak through the paint. After half a day, the paint layer can be removed;
  • Apply a thin layer of liquid glass to the wall. After drying, the silicate film is removed, and the paint is removed along with it.

Thermal method is based on the ability of paint, under the influence of high temperatures, to transform into a semi-amorphous state - when it is no longer solid, but not yet liquid. This layer of paint can be easily removed with a spatula.

Can be heated construction hairdryer, blowtorch, with a simple iron through a newspaper, or even better - food foil. The method has been known for hundreds of years, has been tested and has never failed. The only thing is that you need to be careful when using heat near electrical wiring, switches, sockets and other plastic items - they can ignite or melt.

There is only one downside to this method: when oil paint is heated, caustic substances are released into the air.

Mechanical method removing paint from the base was born at the same time as it. The method is labor-intensive, but not harmful to health, does not represent fire danger, allows the use of any available hand-held percussion tools (trowel, axe, chisel, hammer) or power tools with various attachments. Therefore, it can be used to remove paint in the kitchen, nursery and bathroom.

How to remove paint from walls manually? Using a spatula, the paint is removed in places where there are cracks in the paint layer or swelling. Tightly adherent paint can be removed either with a chisel, hammer or axe.

The process can be mechanized and using power tools (drill, hammer drill) with special attachments.

How to repair cracks

After removing the plaster and old finish, the walls are carefully inspected for chips, cracks, damaged masonry joints, etc. Identified defects require elimination, especially cracks.

Cracks in the wall are the scourge of new residents in panel houses. Living-in apartments suffer from this to a much lesser extent - even in old “Khrushchev” apartments you rarely see them. There is a simple explanation - cracks appear mainly due to shrinkage of the building. They must be sealed in any case.

You can repair the crack yourself. For this you will need:

  • set of spatulas;
  • brush;
  • sponge;
  • primer;
  • sandpaper;
  • putty;
  • fiberglass mesh (in some cases).

Attention: before starting work to repair a crack, you must make sure that its growth has stopped. Otherwise, all the work will be in vain - you will have to redo it after a certain time.

We will describe the whole process step by step:

  1. plaster 2-3 cm wide along the crack;
  2. use a spatula to widen the gap; if necessary, you can use other tools (chisel, hatchet, chisel);
  3. the edges of the wall near the gap are cleaned with sandpaper;
  4. Dirt and dust are removed from the recess and around it (this can be done with a vacuum cleaner or brush);
  5. the crack itself and its edges are primed (it is most convenient to perform this operation with a sponge);
  6. the gap is sealed with any putty (you can also use acrylic paint sealant);
  7. after the repair mixture has dried in the wall gap, a serpyanka (a strip of fiberglass) is applied to the recess and covered with gypsum putty or the same repair compound that was used to seal the crack;
  8. Using a wide spatula, level the mixture into a thin layer;
  9. the dried solution is sanded manually or with a grinder (sandpaper with a grain of 100-150).

For information: the polymer putty is rubbed into the crack with a narrow spatula, the acrylic sealant is squeezed out from the tube with a pneumatic gun.

Chips and irregularities are initially moistened with “cement laitance” or primer, then sealed with a special solution developed for these purposes.

Potholes in the masonry mortar are deepened by 2.0-2.5 cm, followed by priming and sealing with cement-sand mortar. The cement mixture can be replaced with a very effective polymer-based repair composition. But it all depends on the price of the material - cement-sand mortar is much cheaper.

Before finishing the walls, they must be leveled. Plaster or drywall will come to the rescue. The material “” will tell you what exactly to choose. Let's consider both options.

Leveling by plastering

The most common option for leveling walls is to plaster them with a mortar of cement and sand. In order for the solution to adhere well, the surface under the plaster needs to be primed.

How to prime walls

They begin to plaster the walls after applying a primer to them. This operation allows you to:

  • saturate the wall material with moisture, which will not allow it to take water from the plaster mortar;
  • create a film with strong adhesion to the wall (the primer penetrates up to 1 cm deep into the material), which in turn provides good adhesion to the plaster;
  • increase the strength of the surface of the wall material - the absorbed primer protects the wall from chipping, the formation of small cracks, etc.;
  • bind dust particles that actively counteract any connecting processes.

The primer must be selected according to the wall material and type of plaster. For example, primer for concrete and gypsum plaster not suitable for cement-sand plaster mortar.

The repaired wall is primed with a paint roller or brush in 2 layers. In this case, the next layer must be applied after the first has dried, although there are recommendations to apply the second layer after the first after 10 hours. It is impossible to unequivocally evaluate such advice - there are no studies on this issue.

Plastering a wall

The next stage of preparatory work is the installation of beacons. The operation is described in detail in the work "". Let us briefly recall the entire technological process.

  1. In the upper corners of the wall, at a distance of 10-15 cm from the adjacent wall and 20 cm from the ceiling, holes for dowels are drilled with a hammer drill or drill and screws are screwed into them - 2-3 cm of hardware are left above the surface.
  2. A plumb line is hung on the head of each self-tapping screw, and a hole is drilled for the second hardware at a height of 20 cm from the floor. After this, the heads of the hardware are brought into one plane (you need to screw in or unscrew one of the screws with a screwdriver).
  3. The wall surface is being hung. To do this, a fishing line or twine is stretched between the screws horizontally and diagonally.
  4. Using a construction square along a stretched fishing line, measurements are taken of the distance from the surface of the wall to the plane formed by the tensioned fishing lines.
  5. Add 3 cm to the point of the wall most curved towards the room and form a new plane - the plane of the plaster.
  6. Beacon guides are installed from the PS profile.

The process of plastering with cement-sand mortar is described step by step in the material “”. The stages consist of:

  • from spray;
  • soil;
  • covers.

They are performed in strict sequence after the previous layer has dried.

Splash is produced to create good adhesion of the plaster mortar to the wall. Apply up to 5 mm thick. The solution must be prepared with a high content binder(cement, gypsum, lime) and be similar in consistency to liquid sour cream.

If a decision has been made not to prime the surface of the walls, then they are moistened with water so that the wall material does not take away some of the moisture from the solution and thereby disturb chemical process formation of cement (gypsum, lime) stone.

Professionals advise starting work from the bottom left corner and going up between the beacon profiles. Having finished the first row, move on to the second, etc.

The second layer, builders call it “primer”, is applied after the spray has completely dried- this is the plaster layer of mortar that levels the wall. Its consistency should resemble bread dough. Thickness - about 2 cm. Work is carried out in the same order as spraying.

Third layer the wall surface is leveled to an almost ideal state. Some specialists are able to perform this part of the operation on such high level, which does not require finishing (finishing) - putty.

Leveling with plasterboard

How to level walls for wallpaper with “dry plaster”, by which builders mean plasterboard sheets, can be read in the materials “” and “”.

The fastest, easiest and cheap way level the walls with gypsum plasterboard - use glue. But this option is only available for small, up to 3-4 cm, height differences on the wall surface. If the curvature is greater, it is imperative to install a sheathing.

If the wall is uneven up to 4 mm, glue is applied to the wall surface and the first sheet of drywall is pressed firmly against it. Subsequent sheets are applied to the wall surface, but are not pressed into the glue. Using a level and a rubber hammer, the gypsum board is brought into the same plane with the already glued sheets (they are tacked to the wall).

If the unevenness is significant, strips of plasterboard come to the rescue, which are glued to the wall, and only then drywall is attached to them. Surprisingly, there are often cases when apartment owners who do the work themselves use a lot of glue instead of strips. The result is the same - when the glue dries, it shrinks strongly and either comes off the gypsum board, or pulls the sheet along with it, causing it to burst.

Primer before wallpaper

Modern wallpapers are made from a variety of materials. It is very difficult to select an adhesive for the combination of wall material and the back side of the trellis. This will require more than a hundred types of adhesive mass.

Manufacturers of wallpaper and glue found a simple way out of this situation: they developed special primers that serve as an intermediate link between wallpaper glue and the material from which the wall is made.

Therefore, you need to choose a primer for wallpaper under the surface of the wall (to different types glue it is already adapted). Apply a rough coat of primer with a roller, and in hard-to-reach places with a brush. The second, finishing layer is applied after the first has dried.

For reinforced concrete, the first layer is applied with a diluted primer - it is necessary to saturate it with moisture as much as possible. Re-prime after the already applied primer has completely dried.

Priming walls for wallpaper is discussed in detail in the material ""

The nuances of preparing a wall for different types of wallpaper

Wallpaper can be heavy or light, dense or translucent. This makes some adjustments to the process of preparing walls for taping trellises.

Liquid wallpaper

Liquid wallpaper easily tolerates various uneven surfaces of the walls, but bright spots shine through well and look gray on a dark surface. Therefore, the walls under them do not need to be puttied, but they must be painted with white water-based paint, if they are not light-colored.

Non-woven wallpaper

Lightweight non-woven wallpaper can be glued over old paper trellises and over paint, which simplifies the entire process of preparing walls. The only thing that needs to be controlled is how well the previous finish adheres to the walls, and whether bright colors (of old wallpaper or painted walls) are visible through the wallpaper. If in one of the cases the condition is not met, then a full cycle of preparing the walls for wallpapering lies ahead.

Photo wallpaper

The ability of photo wallpaper to emphasize the slightest convexity of the walls while simultaneously distorting the pattern requires mandatory puttying of the surface, followed by sanding by hand or using a sander.

Conclusion

Get a high-quality wall covered without careful preparation during use modern wallpaper problematic. It is necessary to perform a cycle of work:

  1. remove old finish;
  2. repair walls;
  3. level the surface with plaster or sheets of drywall;
  4. putty;
  5. treat with wallpaper primer.

Some types of wallpaper require additional operations:

  • photo wallpaper - sanding putty;
  • liquid - painting walls with white water-based paint.

Video on the topic



Finishing Finishing work internal surfaces premises - the most important stage throughout the entire renovation process. And a lot depends not only on the quality of wallpaper and glue chosen, but also on how much skill the person doing the repairs has - if the preparatory work before wallpapering the walls is carried out with violations, then you may not expect a spectacular result. Preparing walls for wallpaper is a crucial moment, which involves taking into account certain features.

The entire preparation process consists of several stages:

  • cleaning walls from old coating (paint, whitewash, wallpaper);
  • cleaning the surface from dirt/debris;
  • getting rid of cracks and irregularities;
  • priming work;
  • choice of wallpaper and glue.

Wall cleaning

The complexity of the process will depend on what is in the “source” - a completely new apartment in a new building, walls with remnants of old wallpaper or oil paint.

Preparing the walls in a new building

Going into new apartment, the newly minted owner of square meters sees completely gray/rough walls, poorly installed sockets/switches - with this state of the surface it is impossible to glue wallpaper right away. To prepare the walls for wallpapering with your own hands you will need:

  1. Spray - this way absolutely all the unevenness/cracks/ on the walls are filled with liquid. The thickness of the spray on the walls should not be large - do not overdo it, the maximum permissible layer is 6 mm.
  2. Apply a primer to the surface - its layer should also be 6 mm, but if the walls are too uneven, then several layers can be applied. The main purpose of using a primer is to level the surface.
  3. Apply a finishing layer of plaster to the primed surface - its thickness is only 4 mm, it represents finishing plaster a thin layer that can be easily wiped off.
  4. Sand the prepared wall with fine sandpaper to make the surface as even as possible.

Only after all the above stages of preparatory work have been completed before wallpapering in a new building will it be possible to begin finishing work.

How to remove old wallpaper without much effort


If there are remnants of old wallpaper on the walls or they are completely covered with them, then you need to prepare a tool that will greatly simplify the preparation of walls for wallpapering. You will need:

  • - spatula - it is optimal to have both a narrow and a wide one;
  • — sprayer or roller/whitening brush;
  • - ordinary water;
  • aggressive means– vinegar, baking soda, dishwashing detergent.

Removing old wallpaper from the walls is easy - in some places it is enough to pull a corner with your hands and remove the sheets, but more often a spatula and water are required. Wallpaper on the walls should be moistened with water (with a roller, brush or spray), then removed with a spatula.

If vinyl/non-woven wallpaper was previously pasted, the process becomes more complicated:

  • moisten the wallpaper on the walls with water - this needs to be done quite generously;
  • using a spatula, remove the top layer of wallpaper - vinyl/non-woven wallpaper consists of several layers of paper;
  • We wet the walls again with water and get rid of the remaining paper.

Sometimes on cleaned walls you can clearly see rust spots– this is how rust appears from the metal frame of cast surfaces. There is only one way out - at the place where the stains appear, the entire layer of plaster is removed, the surface is treated with an anti-corrosion agent, then the plaster is applied again.

Getting rid of dirt and debris

After completing the first stage of preparing the walls for wallpapering, you need to thoroughly clean them of debris and dirt - use a vacuum cleaner or a broom with water. During the cleaning process, you may find cracks and falling plaster - these defects must be removed. If the crack is small, then it is simply covered with putty. If the crack is too wide, proceed as follows:

  • clean the crack from dust/dirt, and if necessary, widen it - all falling off fragments of plaster must be removed;
  • moisten the crack cavity with water;
  • Apply putty to it and smear it thoroughly, trying to align the crack in one plane with the entire surface of the wall. Remember: when sealing cracks, the movements of the spatula with putty must be made in the vertical direction.

Getting rid of unevenness

Take a closer look at the prepared walls - do you see irregularities, holes, “potholes”? You definitely need to get rid of them so that the wallpaper lays on the surface flawlessly. There are only two methods that can be used to level the walls:

  • plastering - the process requires skill and some experience, and may take several days;
  • installation of drywall - financial expenses will be required, but the installation process is simple, within the control of every person and takes little time.

If you are installing drywall, then prepare putty and reinforcing tape in advance - this will need to be used to treat the joints/seams of the drywall.

If you decide to plaster the walls yourself, watch this video review: a master class on plaster is conducted by a specialist:

Whatever is chosen for leveling the walls, the next stage is primer, and it should not be ignored. When applying the primer solution to a cleaned and leveled surface, a thin film is formed - it serves as a factor in the strong adhesion of the wallpaper to the walls. Before priming, you need to clean the places where the putty was applied - this can be done with fine sandpaper manually.

It’s only after all the work mentioned above that you can prepare directly for wallpapering. But first you need to select them, and at the same time select the glue.

How to choose wallpaper and wallpaper glue?

We recommend reading:
  1. Manufacturer– renovations are not done for a year (although there are those who like frequent changes), there will always be people in the room, so the quality of wallpaper and glue must be at a high level. Only at famous manufacturers You can get a quality guarantee and be sure of safety for health.
  2. Purpose– for each type of wallpaper you need to select a special glue, and you can find the markings on the packaging.
  3. Possibility of changing the design of the room– if you are a fan of frequent dramatic changes in styles, then it is better to hang wallpaper intended for subsequent painting. These are glass wallpaper - a relatively new finishing material, characterized by high quality, ease of application and long service life.

But even if the most expensive and high quality wallpaper, and the glue is provided by the manufacturer itself, there is no guarantee of a successful final result. Everything will depend only on how the walls were prepared for wallpaper - following all the above steps, or ignoring some of them.