If you like climbing roses, planting and caring for these truly beautiful flowers is no more difficult than a bush rose, but decorative effect much higher. They are ideal for vertical gardening. They can braid as small garden designs, as well as columns, walls of buildings, fences, gazebos. And in an amazing way, climbing roses combine with almost all the flowers and plants that grow in the garden.
Before you start growing any plant, you need to find out what it is, find out its characteristics and how to properly care for it.
By the way. Climbing roses are so many-sided and varied that they have not been combined into general form. Both varieties of roses and plants from the rose hip family can be climbing.
This category includes all climbing roses that have flexible shoots from two to twelve meters or more in length. They grow in an arc along vertical surface, or spread horizontally.
All representatives of roses that have long weaving stems are classified as various groups. The classification is fluid and is in the stage of systematization, since new varieties and hybrids are constantly being developed through complex multi-stage crossings.
Advice. Although climbing roses are called climbing roses, to the group climbing plants According to botanical standards, they are not classified as they do not have antennae or other attachment mechanisms. They all need to be tied to a support.
Table 1. Classification of climbing roses by groups.
| Group | Detailed description |
|---|---|
| Rambler | The color of the stems is rich green up to 12 meters. Plants have many thorns. The leaves are small and glossy. The color shades are bright and varied, but the roses themselves are rarely larger than four centimeters in diameter. But they can be not only simple, but also semi-double and terry. Pink flowers have a weak aroma; they are valued for their high decorative value and frost resistance - under light cover the plants will survive even the harshest winter. |
| Climber | They are most often called climbing. The stems are no different long length- reach no more than four meters, but are much more powerful and less flexible than those of ramblers. Large flowers, which can be from four to eight centimeters in diameter, in small inflorescences. The frost resistance of climbers is quite high; they successfully winter under cover. The group is also distinguished by a common feature - high resistance to powdery mildew. |
| Claiming | The main feature is the large ten-centimeter flowers, which can be combined into inflorescences or grow singly along five-meter shoots. Winter hardiness can be considered high, but only in newly bred varieties. Historically, these plants were grown in the southern regions because they did not always tolerate frost well. |
| Banks | The Banks rose group is evergreen. The stems can grow up to 12 meters, but most often the rose is grown as a bush. The leaves are small and glossy. The flowers are medium-sized, lush, and can have either a single color or a combination of several colors. The plant blooms once a season, lasting about a month, in the first month of summer. |
| Cordesa | Plants that belong to the group of cordes roses are distinguished by their small length of lashes - only up to three meters. The color range is rich and varied. The flowers are large - on average about six centimeters. Hybrid varieties of roses belonging to the cordes group are distinguished by winter hardiness and immunity to many rose diseases. |
| Multiflora | From East Asia. Includes hybrids derived from wild Asian varieties. The flowers are abundant, up to four centimeters, of various colors. Unlike other climbing roses - very powerful root system, which allows roses to grow even on rocks. One of the few groups whose flowers have absolutely no scent. |
| Vishurana | It is afraid of low temperatures and practically cannot be grown in cold conditions. Plants of this group cannot be grown in a house or even a greenhouse, since their vines can reach 15 meters. There are many flowers, but they are not large, but they are collected in lush, voluminous inflorescences, and they come in the most incredible colors. |
| Lambert | There are about a hundred Lambert roses, and they are quite popular in the world because they are resistant to diseases and have good varietal immunity. They usually grow as a bush, the vines of which are about 2.5-3 meters. It blooms gradually, periodically, but abundantly. The diameter of the flower is about five centimeters. |
Of all the available groups, the most popular are ramblers, climbers and climbers.
The former love the fact that rambler roses bloom profusely; a record number of flowers is responsible for this - there can be up to a hundred of them in an inflorescence.
Inflorescences are formed on last year's shoots, placed along the entire length of the climbing stem, blooming gradually, so the total flowering period for ramblers is about one and a half months, usually in the first half of summer, once.
Climbers bloom profusely and almost always, when good conditions and care, twice a year. The first flowering occurs at the beginning of summer and lasts about three weeks. The second after summer pruning occurs after a month and a half.
In climbing plants, the formation of flowers occurs on all shoots, both last year’s and new ones, so flowering is abundant and in almost all varieties repeats twice a season.
Table 2. Varieties of climbing roses by group.
| Group | Varieties |
|---|---|
| Rambler | American Pillar, Red Parfum, Bobbie James, Brewood Belle, Goldfinch. |
| Climber | Rosarium Uetersen, Dortmund, Ilse Krohn Superior. |
| Claiming | Breath of Life, Santana, Compassion, Sally Holmes, Gloria Day. |
| Banks | Lutea, Lady Banks, Rosa Banksiae. |
| Cordesa | Laguna, Alchymist, Aloha, Flamentanz. |
| Multiflora | Ghislaine de Feligonde, Geschwindt. |
| Vishurana | Coronation, Glen Dail. |
| Lambert | Frau Karl Druschki, Shverin, Munhen. |
Once the desired variety has been determined, it is time to purchase and plant, but first you need to prepare the soil and select optimal time. You can read more about preparing land for seedlings.
Roses are not the most whimsical of flowers, but the character of these beauties is quite capricious, and the climbing varieties are doubly capricious.
Important! Planting and care climbing roses must be carried out according to certain rules, only in this case can high viability be guaranteed in combination with fully manifested decorative qualities.
It is not as easy to find a place on the site for a climbing rose as for a bush rose. Like all members of the family, she loves the sun, but only in the first half of the day. There must be a lot of sun so that the morning dew dries on the leaves and the leaves are saturated with life-giving light. After this, at noon, the climbing rose bush should be shaded. The scorching daytime sun will burn the leaves and flowers, they will dry out, and the plant will lose its decorative effect.
Advice. The rose will also need protection from the wind, especially if it blows from the north and northeast. It is precisely because of the winds and constant drafts that it is not recommended to plant climbing roses in the corners of buildings.
The size of a climbing rose is a square of half a meter to a meter, depending on what variety the plant belongs to.
For temperate climates, two options for planting time are possible - spring, from the middle to the end. Autumn – from late September to mid-autumn.
It is better to give preference to autumn planting. Rooting must take place before frost, the young seedling is covered for the winter, and in the spring, immediately after awakening, it begins to actively grow.
Climbing roses will not grow in undrained soil. Also does not like tall plants groundwater, sandy and clayey soils.
The best option is loam. If it is not there, the existing soil will have to be amended by adding sand to the clay or vice versa until the desired result is obtained. Correction area – two cubic meters, since the roots of a climbing rose can go deep and to the sides exactly at this distance.
Important! Before planting, be sure to add humus or humus to the hole no later than four weeks before planting, at least 10 kg per plant. It's also good to add bone meal.
Everyone knows that it is better to buy roses in a nursery, and not from hand - this is the only way to guarantee the variety. But besides this, you still need to know how to choose a seedling in the nursery.
There are two types of climbing rose seedlings - self-rooted and grafted. It cannot be said that some of them are better and others are worse. Just caring for a rooted specimen will be somewhat different from caring for a plant grafted onto a rosehip rootstock.
By the way. Already during planting, the technologies are different - the scion is planted deeper than the rooted seedling, so that the grafting site is buried ten centimeters into the soil.
Nurseries can offer two more types of seedlings - with open and with closed system roots. It is better to purchase a plant with protected roots, especially if the issue with the place or time of planting has not yet been resolved. A rose with bare roots should be planted on the second day after acquiring the seedling, immersing it with its roots in a container of water for a day, to which root can be added.
Once everything is prepared, you can begin the planting process.
By the way. Spring planting is different in that after planting the plant must be covered with film, creating mini-greenhouse conditions for more successful rooting.
Having planted a climbing rose, you will have to go through all the stages of care; skipping even one can cause the death of the plant.
But first of all, even before planting or immediately after it, you need to take care of creating support for the climbing rose.
Support - grid
Support - fence and gate
As already noted, the plant does not have tendrils, cannot cling to anything, and is neither climbing nor climbing.
There are many different supports for all groups of climbing roses. They can be metal, plastic, wooden structures various modifications. These are pergolas and arches, arcs and gratings, fences, gazebos, as well as walls and entrance groups, which can be perfectly decorated with a climbing rose.
Advice. If you plant a rose near a wall, you need to step back at least half a meter from it. Apply guides to the wall surface or attach a grille.
If the support is an autonomous structure not attached to the wall, it is dug in immediately after planting into a hole at a distance of 35-50 cm from the base of the bush.
The stems are fixed on the supports with twine, non-metallic garden wire, and plastic fasteners.
Roses do not need frequent watering, but it must be deep, since the roots lie two meters deep. At least two buckets of water should be poured into each hole weekly. It's better to give tap water stand for two days before watering. Climbing roses need to be watered either in the morning or in the evening.
If the seedlings are planted in the spring, and enough humus has been added to the hole, the plants are not fed until the end of summer.
At the beginning of autumn, potassium-containing fertilizers are applied to successfully prepare for wintering.
Roses autumn planting do not fertilize until spring. In the spring, they begin to add minerals, alternating with organic matter, every month and a half throughout the growing season. You should stop fertilizing at the beginning of October.
Loosening the soil around the stem of a climbing rose is carried out two to three days after each watering. It is necessary to loosen to a depth of 12 centimeters. If the hole is mulched with peat, from time to time the layer of mulch is renewed and added.
It is carried out in spring or autumn, as well as at the beginning of intensive growth. Cut off dried dead parts of the stem, branches, and areas frostbitten in winter.
If a rose blooms once, it is worth remembering that flowers form on it only on the shoots of the second year, so immediately after flowering the branches are removed at the root.
On plants that bloom twice, pruning is carried out in preparation for wintering.
Roses have a lot of pests, the main ones of which are aphids and spider mites. Most often, they are noticed already when it is necessary to urgently use insecticides. The instructions for their use should be strictly followed.
Plant diseases are also numerous - cancer, spotting, rot - this is not a complete list of what can destroy a climbing rose. Parts of the stem and leaves affected by the disease are removed and everything is treated with chemicals. If most of the plant is damaged, it will have to be dug up by the roots and burned.
Climbing roses are divided into 2 groups - climber roses and rambler roses. Climber roses can bloom once and repeatedly. They reach up to 3.5 m in height.
Rambler roses bloom only once, and their advantage is that they reach more than 5 m in height. These are the real “vines” among climbing roses, with powerful shoots.
In addition, their flowering lasts longer and the flowers are more abundant. Flowering of ramblers lasts about 40 days.
To tell you about the advantages of ramblers, I will tell you about the most interesting, in my opinion, varieties.
Climbing rose Bobby James. During the flowering period, the bush is lushly covered with creamy white flowers, which are collected in a large inflorescence. The aroma of this climbing rose is very intense, reminiscent of wild roses.
The bush grows strongly, during the flowering period it has a weeping shape due to the abundance of flowers. About 5 m high.
Climbing rose Flammentanz. The flowers are double, fiery scarlet. It is distinguished by its rapid growth, up to 5 m in height. The leaves of this climbing rose are thick. Frost-resistant variety.
The shoots of climbing roses require direction. In order for them to bloom not only on the upper shoots, you need to tie the sprouts diagonally or horizontally.
The more shoots are positioned horizontally, the more side shoots and flowers there will be. If the bush is large enough, it is imperative to replace the old shoots of the rose with young ones.
There are several basic conditions for climbing roses. For a rose bush to be strong, it needs to grow freely upward. Since climbing roses do not have special organs that would hold them on supports, it is necessary to firmly fix the shoots on the support (arbor, arch, pergola).
Plays a huge role in lush flowering correct landing climbing roses To do this, it is recommended to choose a southwest or southeast direction on the site.
It is difficult to give recommendations for planting climbing roses, because the need for space varies different varieties different, depending on the shape and intensity of growth. The growth rate of climbing roses is influenced by both climate and soil composition.
In addition, everyone sets different goals for themselves: to completely cover the wall of a house, fence or gazebo with a chic flowering canvas, or to leave space between the bushes.
Sometimes, to get a fireworks effect and prolong the flowering of the Rambler climbing rose, you can plant two different varieties in one hole.
- Most the right time For planting climbing roses with open root is early spring or October, November.
Under no circumstances should the roots be allowed to dry out. It is necessary to protect the seedling from the sun and frost. Before planting, a climbing rose seedling is immersed in a bucket filled with water for several hours.
— The soil must be fertile, well-drained, because roses do not tolerate stagnant water.
— Proper care begins with proper planting. Provided good growth. The hole for planting a climbing rose should be one palm wider than the root system of the seedling.
The soil at the bottom of the pit should be loose. The hole must be filled with soil fertilized with compost or soil mixture purchased at a garden store. After planting a climbing rose, it is necessary to water it abundantly.
— After planting in the first year, it is not recommended to use mineral fertilizers. Best to use organic fertilizers. But you don’t need to get carried away with them, this weakens their resistance to disease.
— Water climbing roses in the morning or evening. Irrigation by sprinkling is not recommended, because water falling on the foliage provokes fungal diseases. After watering, you need to loosen the soil, preventing the formation of a crust.
— Late autumn Climbing rose bushes must be hilled up to 20 cm, tall shoots must be bent to the ground, secured with metal pins and covered with spruce branches.
— Pruning of climbing roses must be done in the second year after planting. Repeatedly blooming climbing roses should be pruned as little as possible.
If you dream of original transformations on your property, be sure to plant climbing roses: care will not be difficult. Lush flowering These roses, which are also called climbing or climbing roses, and their successful combination with other plants will delight even an avid gardener.
These flowers are the leaders of vertical gardening. Interesting ideas a bunch of. They help arrange all kinds of arches, columns, pyramids, and garlands. A “living” wall along buildings, gazebos, and balconies will delight you with magnificent blooms and give you coolness. Decorative compositions of several varieties look very unusual.
Climbing rose formed by a tall bush
In order for your climbing rose to develop successfully, planting and care must be carried out according to certain rules.
The main rule of a gardener who wants to get chic climbing roses: care begins with proper landing. Prepare for it in advance.
Choose the best place for rose
These picky plants love light and moderate breezes. Lack of sunlight inhibits the ripening of fresh stems that will bloom in next season. But do not plant the bushes in a place that is flooded with sun all day - the stems will get burned and the petals will burn out. Shade is needed for at least a few hours a day, then the flowering will be long. The corners of buildings are absolutely not suitable - capricious roses do not tolerate drafts well. It is best if the sun's rays warm up in the first half of the day - the dew will evaporate quickly, and powdery mildew it won't be scary.
Arch of climbing roses
Determining the landing time
If you do this in the fall, the fragile beauties will not get stronger for the winter and may not survive the frost. Arrange the purchased bushes in a new place in May-June - they will develop well and have time to prepare for the cold weather.
Maintaining the optimal distance
When planting in a row, the distance between the bushes is half a meter - a meter, and between the rows - one to two meters. Step back 35-50 centimeters from the support near the wall and gazebo.
Planting depth is also important. Cover the root collar with a layer of soil about 10 centimeters.
Properly making a hole for planting
If possible, dig up the soil several weeks in advance and add peat, lime and humus. The size of the plant pits is 50x50 centimeters. Before planting, mix the soil with cow manure and pour it into the prepared area. Another option is a composition diluted with water from one part manure and two parts clay. An additional three tablets of phosphorobacterin are added to 10 liters of this solution. For acidic soil add to the mixture dolomite flour. Don't forget to water the planted flowers thoroughly.
Basic rules for planting roses
Preparing the bush for planting
Trim shoots and roots to a length of 20-30 centimeters. This trick will allow you to form a powerful root system. To ensure that roses quickly recover from microtrauma and prevent infection, cover fresh sections with garden varnish and dust the roots with ash.
Feeding is required
Manure is considered the best fertilizer. You can replace it with any organic fertilizer. Mineral fertilizers can be alternated with organic matter or used together. Only during the period of intensive growth, before flowering, carry out at least five feedings. When the plant blooms, do not feed it with manure or similar products anymore.
Requires infrequent and moderate watering
Roses tolerate drought well and do not like excess moisture. Water them once a week. You don't need a lot of water; overwatering will be bad. appearance and the risk of disease.
Climbing roses along the path are formed by bushes
Protection from diseases is necessary
The most common diseases are powdery mildew and bark cancer.
The first disease is active in hot, humid weather. Spots appear on the leaves white, which increase over time. The pet stops growing and blooming, and may later die. Treat it with Bordeaux mixture, spray it twice at intervals.
Climbing rose on the wall of the house
Bark cancer is most often discovered in the spring, when the winter shelter is removed. The bark of the shoots is full of bright brown small spots. If you don’t notice them right away, they will grow, turn black and tightly encircle the entire shoot. The only rescue measure is to remove the diseased part with a small inclusion of the healthy part. Only burn the cut material! A favorable environment for this fungus is humidity and darkness. Therefore, as preventive measures, we can recommend timely covering and its removal, as well as the abolition of nitrogen fertilizing in the fall. It is better to replace it with potassium fertilizers.
Decorating a wall with a climbing rose
Pest protection
The most common - spider mite and aphids. Inspect the bush - if there are not many pests, try to save the pet with herbs.
Boil the nettle or horsetail for 20 minutes. Cooled down to room temperature Sprinkle the decoction on all the leaves and flowers. Don’t be afraid to overdo it - the method is absolutely safe for the rose and will not harm it. If applying this measure twice does not help or almost the entire bush is affected, resort to insecticides.
Trim the tops of immature shoots in advance and tie the branches. Leave them on the support for now. As soon as the thermometer drops to -5 degrees, the roses need to be covered. You shouldn’t do this before: they won’t have time to harden and during prolonged sheltering they will dry out from lack of air and germinate.
Rose and clematis decorate the fence
Carry out work in dry, windless weather. Carefully remove the shoots from the supports and place them on spruce branches or dry leaves. You can’t lay the stems on bare ground! The first layer of reliable shelter consists of natural materials: leaves, grass, spruce branches. Then wrap the pets in plastic wrap or other waterproof material. Remember that an air gap is necessary between the roses and the shelter.
Important!
You need to remove the cover on time. Do not leave your pets in their shell for a long time in the spring: without fresh air in a humid environment they will suffocate and get sick. After removing the cover, place the branches on the support correctly: fasten them not vertically, but horizontally or in a spiral, obliquely. In this case, the fresh forces of the rose will be directed to the formation of flowers.
True care is impossible without pruning. In the spring, rid your pets of weak and frozen branches - this will also protect them from diseases. In the summer, remove faded shoots - thanks to this measure, the bush will rejuvenate and begin to form replacement shoots.
With proper care, the rose will delight you with its royal beauty
Secrets of reproduction
Propagated by cuttings and layering. The second method is used in the spring. The selected shoot is pressed to the ground, securely secured and part of the trunk is covered with soil. When watering flowers, do not bypass this place. Next spring, cut the grown baby from the mother plant. You have received a beautiful rooted specimen!
Take cuttings for propagation from the middle of shoots that have at least four buds. Only cut material from a faded plant. Plant the cuttings in well-fertilized soil in the shade. Loosening and regular watering will ensure normal development seedling.
Red rose on the pergola
The procedures for caring for wonderful flowers are clear and simple; plant climbing roses, and the garden will amaze you with its splendor and sophistication.
Climbing rose, planting and care It's quite a labor-intensive task. climbing roses beautiful plants, which can be planted anywhere there is support. They can decorate a patio, gazebo, gate, or hide a fence. Climbing roses look great on a single support and on an arch. If there is a long alley in the garden, then they can be decorated with arches of climbing roses. Blooming roses on the arches present a fantastic sight.
Climbing roses come with small flowers, collected in large brushes. Climbing roses are grown with large flowers. They can be terry and semi-double. In addition, climbing roses come with very flexible shoots from which you can create fancy shapes. This makes their decorativeness even stronger.
Flowers appear on this rose bush on last year's shoots.
Climbing roses with large flowers have stiffer shoots than rose bushes with small clusters of flowers. Flowers appear on such a rose bush on the shoots of the current year. There are many varieties of climbing roses.
Climbing roses of the Rambler group with small flowers have creeping shoots that require support. Rose bush of the Rambler group with double or simple flowers 2.5 cm in size. They have a slight pleasant smell. Flowers in pink, white, purple. The leaves of this type of rose are also small and shiny. Climbing roses grow quickly. The height reaches 5 m. They bloom once a season from June to August, but the flowering lasts up to 50 days. Flowers form on last year's shoots. Variety of climbing roses Rambler Albertine - flowers Pink colour grow up to 4.5 m. The Rambler rose bush of the Alberic Barbier variety blooms with small white flowers, the height of the vines is up to 6 m.
Climbing roses are enough unpretentious plants. In order for them to bloom profusely, care is required.
The first step is to choose a place for the rose. The climbing rose will grow well in a sunny place protected from the wind. It is best to plant a climbing rose in a new place where no roses have grown. This is due to the fact that the soil may be contaminated with rose diseases or pests, which have a detrimental effect on young bushes. The distance between bushes is at least 50 cm.
The soil should be light clay-sandy, fertile, breathable. Soil acidity pH 5.5-6.5. Tillage is done to a depth of up to 70 cm, as the roots grow deeper.
When planting at this depth, organic fertilizers are applied in the form of compost or peat compost.
When choosing roses for planting, buy seedlings aged 2-3 years. It is best to buy plants with closed roots in peat pots. This will allow you to plant the rose without any complications. It will grow well in its new location. If the roots are open, then they should be well developed, the bush has 3 shoots.
Planting roses with bare roots is done in early spring or early autumn. In autumn, roses are planted so that the roses have time to take root by the cold season and safely overwinter. If the rose was purchased in a peat pot, then it can be planted after the last frost until August.
Before planting roses with bare roots, it is advisable to coat them with a solution of clay, water and compost in a ratio of 3:10:3, or wet them with a solution that stimulates root growth. The branches must be shortened to 6-7 buds to a height of 30 cm. Carefully lower the roots into the prepared hole and cover it with earth, compacting it layer by layer. The support for the climbing rose is installed at a distance of 20 cm from the roots of the plant. The branches of the climbing rose must be slightly tilted towards the support. The root collar should be at a depth of 4 - 5 cm from the surface of the earth. After compacting the soil, the climbing rose bush is watered and hilled.
After planting roses, care consists of loosening and watering the soil around the rose bush. In the first year, climbing roses of the Rambler species will not bloom, since the above-ground part of the plant grows in the first year.
In subsequent years, in the spring, new shoots of small-flowered climbing roses are pruned little. Typically, pruning roses are pruned after flowering. The shoot is cut out completely so that new replacement shoots can grow. Next year flowers will bloom on them. Usually about 5 shoots are left on the bush. If few replacement shoots have grown, or they are weak, then the old shoots are left. Pruning roses are pruned by leaving 2-3 shoots on them, which are shortened to 3 buds.
Climbing roses must be watered periodically in order for strong shoots to form and the roses to bloom well.
Long branching shoots of climbing roses are great for decorating gazebos, pergolas, fences and arches in the garden. In order for a rose to delight with rapid growth, abundant and long-lasting flowering, you need to choose and plant it correctly.
When choosing climbing roses for your garden, it is important not only to decide on the future planting location, but also to find a suitable variety. Roses differ in many ways:
Many gardeners consider winter hardiness and disease resistance to be the main criteria for choosing rose varieties. Large bushes of climbing roses with 3-4 meter thorny shoots are very difficult to reliably cover for the winter. Where winters are harsh and with little snow, the choice is limited only to those varieties that are guaranteed to survive frosts. Global pruning will not help in this case - the beauty and abundant flowering of a climbing rose directly depends on how its long shoots overwintered.
Disease resistance is also important criterion choosing a rose. Treatment chemicals growing a large plant is not an easy task. And regular spraying of plants that weave around a gazebo or veranda with fungicides and insecticides can negatively affect the health of people relaxing in such a place.
As for the shape and color of the flower, the choice here is so large that it is not difficult to find seedlings of climbing roses to suit the most demanding taste.
Most flowering periods modern varieties very large, many of them bloom from early summer until frost. For some, the flower lasts a long time, blooming in waves. For others, the petals quickly fall off, but new buds bloom all the time. Ancient varieties of roses bloom only once, in May or June, they are selected and combined taking into account specific flowering times.
An arch, gazebo or wall of a building is traditionally used as a support for climbing roses. You can install a special grille or column. What should you consider when choosing a support?
First, you need to consider the length of the shoots. There are climbing roses that can cover the wall of a building up to the 3rd floor. True, such beauty can only be seen in countries with a warm and mild climate. Most of the varieties we know have maximum length shoots are approximately 2-3.5 meters.
Secondly, the support must support the weight of the plant itself and be resistant to strong wind gusts.
Thirdly, the type of support depends on the thickness and flexibility of the shoots. There are varieties of climbing roses with long, but thin and flexible shoots that are easy to shape. They can be easily bent and directed as required, weaving around a gazebo, trellis or fence. For many popular varieties climbing roses, the main shoots are thick and powerful, about 1.5 cm in diameter. At first they grow vertically, and then bend in an arc under the weight of leaves and flowers. It is almost impossible to lay such shoots on the ground for wintering; it is most convenient to form a bush in the form of an arch or along vertical wall, and for a trellis or arbor you need to gradually bend the branches as they grow.
The technology for planting a climbing rose is almost no different from planting any rose. There are only two points to consider:
One of the main factors successful cultivation climbing rose is right choice landing sites. The bush should receive enough light and air, taking into account its maximum sizes. You may also need a place to build a shelter for the winter.
Roses do not like to grow in swampy soil and dry sand. If the groundwater is high or there is frequent stagnation of rainwater, then you need to build a hill or form a slope.
You should not plant a rose where rose bushes have grown for many years before.
Climbing rose seedlings are planted in autumn or spring.
For spring planting, it is important that the ground is already completely thawed. In the fall, it is advisable to plant about a month before the soil freezes.
The approximate depth of the planting hole is 60-70 centimeters. In fertile and fairly loose garden soil, a hole can be made approximately the size of the root system. On sandy, infertile soils, dig a larger hole and fill it with humus, compost, and add mineral fertilizers.
In the process of sprinkling the rhizomes, make sure that the root collar is approximately at soil level. In fact, it needs to be deepened about 10 centimeters below the surface level, but after planting the soil in the hole always settles, the bush will sink by about 6-10 cm, depending on the composition and looseness of the soil. The planting site is mulched with leaf humus or peat.
The support is installed immediately upon planting, before the roots have grown and there is no risk of damage.
Rose bushes can charm anyone with their beauty, they look so magical. And we're not just talking about garden bushes. Climbing roses deserve special attention. They can decorate any place, transform old gazebo to a little piece of paradise. Yes and flower garden will sparkle with bright colors if you know how to plant climbing roses in the garden around the perimeter of the green corner. The main thing is to figure out how to care for a climbing rose and find out what microclimate and growing description it prefers.
Let's say you decide to diversify your garden plot with the recognized queen of garden flowers. In this case, planting a climbing rose is the first thing you need to become familiar with. Knowing how a weaving plant works, it will be easier for you to understand the features of constant care for it. Remember: it is important to prepare the soil for planting. Immediately before deepening the seedling into the soil, add the necessary nutrients to the soil, for example, phosphorus fertilizers, humus, humus, and phosphorobacterin.
When planting a flower, keep in mind that the root system requires large space, so the holes must be voluminous. Place the seedling in the hole; be sure to fill the voids between the root branches. Cover the plant with soil, then pour a bucket under the young bush warm water. The final stage is to add a little soil on top and carefully compact the space around the climbing rose. When the purchased climbing rose is planted in the ground in the spring, it’s time to provide proper care for the young shrub.
Caring for yellow or red varieties in the garden, especially if we're talking about about climbing varieties, will be done correctly if the crown is regularly formed. In the spring, flower growers, as a rule, remove frozen shoots from the bush. Further, the features of this procedure will depend on the variety itself.
If we are talking about a shrub that can bloom only once a season, at the end of its flowering the basal shoots will need to be cut out completely. Let's say you grow climbing varieties that bloom several times a year. In this case, the main shoots will need to be completely removed no earlier than 4 years after planting the seedling.
A climbing rose is not only about planting and care. To achieve abundant and long-lasting flowering and at the same time, over time, get several additional climbing rose bushes, you need to master the procedure for plant propagation. Dilute on your own personal plot You can create a climbing rose of yellow or other colors using seeds or cuttings; this method is feasible, but you will have to buy seed in the store. The thing is that it makes no sense to plant grains collected from a bush growing on your garden plot, since their varietal characteristics will not be traceable.
Knowing how to plant a climbing rose and care for it in the summer is not enough. It is especially important to be able to prepare the plant for cold weather, to understand... The technology of the process itself will be completely different from how they usually prepare for wintering. garden rose. If it is enough to simply cover the bush with soil, then it is necessary to take care of the entire plant. The planted flower should not be watered with the onset of autumn. It is advisable to stop feeding the rose.
In mid-late autumn the bush will need to be bent to the ground. Do this gradually, tying the bush with some kind of rope (remember that you need to bend the branches in one “bundle”, and not one by one).
Don’t be surprised if the procedure takes a couple of days: the bush will gradually get used to the angle of inclination. You can open the plant after hibernation in the spring.
Summer residents adore rose bushes for their lush color and delicate aroma. Small bushes on the porch, flower beds along the path, an area near the gazebo or pool - delicate rose buds can decorate any part of the land. But nothing compares to climbing roses - luxurious perennials that can turn even an abandoned shack into a romantic corner. Magic carpet fragrant flowers ideal for vertical gardening, but it will be truly beautiful under one condition: if the climbing rose is properly planted and cared for. It is these procedures that we will talk about today.
Lush flowering plants require special attention, and long lashes with large velvet flowers are no exception. Only technically verified planting, careful feeding, timely pruning, protection of bushes from pests and winter insulation guarantee a full result - abundant flowering throughout the warm season.
Roses love the sun very much and hate wetlands, so the place where they are planted should be well ventilated and illuminated sun rays. Also, plants develop worse if roses have already been planted in the planned location. It’s not bad if there is a room nearby that is suitable for winter storage bushes.
Lush shrubs are perfect for decorating old buildings, cabins, utility rooms: flowering shoots successfully cover parts of the roof and walls
To prevent water from stagnating in the ground, the selected location must have at least minimum slope. Waterlogging can occur due to close-lying groundwater. It should be taken into account that the roots often reach two meters in length, and if there is a risk of high humidity, it is necessary to plant flowers at higher elevations.
Sometimes rose bushes are planted near the walls of a building for the purpose of decorating them, which threatens to deplete the roots. To prevent this trouble, maintain a distance of 55-60 cm from the wall, as well as at least 50 cm from other plants. The peculiarity of climbing varieties is the presence of support, the role of which is usually played by walls, arches, pergolas, nets, fences, specially created cones or pillars.
You can build a reliable support for a climbing rose with your own hands from several bars or boards, which are connected in the form of a lattice or cone
You can make a garden arch for roses with your own hands:
IN middle lane with a temperate climate, the best planting period is from the last ten days of September to the beginning of October. After one or two weeks, the plants produce the first roots, which have time to adapt before the onset of serious frosts. With the onset of spring, both the above-ground and root parts begin to actively develop, and by the time of flowering the bush gains full strength, not inferior in splendor to old plants.
When setting the time for planting climbing roses, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the variety: for example, “Super Dorothy” blooms quite late, despite the early planting date
If planting is done in the spring, the development of flowers will be delayed by about 15 days, and such a climbing rose will require more careful care. Before planting in the ground, the seedling must be shortened by 2-3 buds. Beginner gardeners do it simpler: they buy their own rooted plants in containers at the nursery, and place them in the ground in late spring.
You should seriously treat the seedlings before planting, otherwise their development will be defective. Preparation includes several manipulations:
Pruning climbing roses should be understood as shortening several (3-5) strong shoots to a height of 15 cm; weaker shoots should be removed completely. The same is done with the root system: fragmented or long shoots are removed, leaving a small bunch. Thanks to this, the development of the plant will occur more actively, and during the flowering period the rose will produce numerous lush buds.
Proper preparation of seedlings is a sure guarantee that the plant will gain maximum strength and at the right time will be covered with lush color
Pruned and impregnated with fertilizers, seedlings receive a kind of immunity, thanks to which they quickly develop and bloom in lush colors.
One of the options for a mineral mixture for processing: a little clay, 1/10 part of mullein, phosphorobacterin (2-3 tablets per 10 liters of solution). You can use heteroauxin - just 1 tablet is enough.
The ideal soil for rose bushes is loose loamy, permeable soil containing fertile layer. Sand and heavy clay are completely unsuitable for growing flowers, so each of these types of soil must be diluted with the opposite. A little lime will make the soil crumbly and more suitable in chemical composition.
If the soil on the site is too acidic, liming is performed:
Heavy, fragrant, brightly colored buds are the first sign that the soil for the plant has been chosen correctly: it allows water and air to pass through well
To increase fertility, humus, humus, phosphorus fertilizers, and special soil bacteria (phosphorobacterin) are added to the soil. At the end of summer, everything is dug up several times, and in the spring they do another shoveling.
The volume of the planting pit should be sufficient so that the young roots of the plant do not experience a shortage of free space. The optimal depth is 60-65 cm. The holes must be located at a distance of at least 1 m from one another, only in this case the root system will be able to develop freely. When planting a rose, the root collar is immersed in the soil by about 10-12 cm - thus protecting it from frost in winter period(with additional insulation).
Arranging landing hole, it is necessary to take into account not only its size, but also its location relative to the support: nothing should interfere with the development of the roots of the plant
The roots are placed freely, carefully filling the voids between them. About 5 kg of peat compost or a similar nutrient mixture must be added to each hole. Fill the hole with soil to the level of the ground surface, and then trample it down a little. Further care for climbing roses implies timely feeding of fertilizer. The first is carried out immediately after landing. A mixture of phosphobacterin and heteroauxin is excellent for irrigation, or humates are an option.
To saturate the soil with microelements useful for the plant, it is mulched with humus, compost or humus, which can be easily prepared at the dacha with your own hands
If you want to create a rose garden on your site, then use not only climbing types of roses:
By directing the young shoots, you can give the rose bush exactly the shape that was originally planned. For education more buds and abundant flowering gartering of individual lashes is necessary. Usually climbing species used for vertical decoration, but this does not mean that all the branches should be directed upward: with this arrangement the bush will become poorer, and the buds will appear only at the very top.
The solution is simple: several main branches need to be positioned horizontally, and to do this they need to be tied up. Each main lash will produce several side shoots growing upward, and most importantly - a whole cloud of lush flowers. This principle is good for decorating walls, high mesh fences, and pergolas.
Proper gartering of roses ensures the development of shoots in the desired direction: along a fence or arch, on top of a plane, around supports of various configurations
An excellent solution for a walking path is a suite of arches designed to be decorated with climbing roses and clematis, which have already been planted and will soon begin to grow.
Another popular way of arranging shoots is “fan”, when side shoots freely extend upward and to the sides without interfering with each other. For braiding a pillar or arch, a “spiral” is more suitable, when the lashes twist around the support. Regardless of the location of the shoots, you should not neglect the care of climbing roses, and this applies not only to regular pruning, watering and fertilizing, but also to preparation for frost.
Weak shoots and old lashes are cut off, leaving only 11-12 strong shoots. They are carefully collected into a large bundle, tied, tilted towards the ground and secured in this position with pegs. Finally, cover with spruce paws. The base of the bush should be sprinkled with a mixture of soil and peat, and covered with agrofibre or dense film on top.
Single rose bushes are covered separately, and those growing nearby can be insulated using a large piece of agrofibre, covering several bushes at once
The second method resembles the first, but the lashes remain tied to the support. It is used in regions with milder climates. The shoots are covered with the same spruce branches, and the top is hermetically wrapped with film. High-quality covering material and properly performed insulation guarantee the safety of the rose bush until the spring thaw.
In addition to pruning and covering, roses also need other procedures before wintering:
Only by fulfilling these requirements can you hope for good flowering.
Garden ensembles created with the help of climbing roses are particularly elegant, but to achieve good result, needed the right approach to their cultivation. We will tell you about the secrets of planting and caring for this fashionable and beautiful plant.
All climbing roses are divided into 3 groups: ramblers (small-flowered), large-flowered (Climber) and Climbing (climbing), distinguished by even larger flowers. The difference between them is clearly visible in the photo.
Our most popular varieties include:
The climbing rose, the planting and care of which is somewhat different from other types of roses, loves the sun, so it is planted on the south or southwest side of the estate. Wetlands are not suitable. In this case, the roots may rot, because they grow up to 2 m deep. It is better when the place where they grow is located on a hill and is well ventilated.
Important! Never plant bushes in places where roses have already grown.
It is recommended to plant plants in the fall (September), although you can do this in the spring, but then the flowers will appear 2 weeks later. Most suitable soil is a loose, permeable loam. Heavy clay is diluted with a small amount of lime. A bed 0.5-0.6 m wide is sufficient for planting roses. Holes measuring 0.5 x 0.5 x 0.5 m and 1 m apart from each other are dug in advance. If the soil in them is dry at the time of planting, pour 1 bucket of water into each, add 0.5 buckets of manure, humus and phosphorus-containing fertilizer. The bottom of the hole is dug up.
Climbing rose bush before planting
Before planting, the seedlings are treated - the roots are pruned, removing long shoots, pickled in a solution of low concentration potassium permanganate, the places where the buds are located are sprinkled with charcoal, then the bush is dipped in a biostimulant solution. The latter is often used mineral mixture, consisting of clay, mullein and 2-3 tablets of phosphorobacterin per 10 liters of water or 1 tablet of heteroauxin. After this, the seedling is immersed in the hole. If this happens in the fall, then the root collar is covered with 12 centimeters of soil, otherwise the plant will most likely die in the winter. Next, the soil is compacted and watered, and the plant is cut off, retreating from the ground level of 18 centimeters. spring planting the seedling is shortened to 11-13 cm.
Advice. If you plan to decorate a wall, then place the hole for the climbing rose at a distance of about 0.45 m from the object, because its roots can destroy the foundation.
Care includes a minimum of activities:
Choose the sunniest place on the site for the rose.
Since the length of the branches increases quite quickly, you need to plan their direction in advance. As soon as they grow to 0.5 m, install vertical supports to tie them up. During the season, you have to install many of these racks, because many lateral shoots appear on each lash. Thus, a crown is formed, flowering becomes longer and more abundant, and the entire object near which the bush grows is completely covered with stems, as in the photo.
A mandatory procedure is to prepare the bush for winter. It needs good thermal insulation. Climbing roses are covered using two methods: removing them from the support and leaving the vines in place. When choosing the first method, the shoots are removed from the rack, the weak and old ones are removed so that only 10-12 pieces remain. the strongest. Next, they are tied, pressed to the soil, fixed with pegs, covered with spruce branches, and a layer of soil is poured onto the base and covered with film.
Think in advance and install a support for the climbing rose
Humus added to the hole during planting will nourish the rose bush for 2 years. In the future, the plant will require fertilizers. In the spring, manure is applied to encourage the growth of young stems. In autumn, this fertilizer is contraindicated, because the regrown shoots will not have time to gain strength and will not survive the winter. Optimal composition autumn feeding:
Roses need varied and regular feeding.
During the growing season, roses are fed 4-5 times. To feed plants with potassium, you can use a solution consisting of 10 liters of water, 15 g of superphosphate and 16 g of potassium monophosphate. To ensure that roses receive a sufficient amount of phosphate, add 10 g of magnesium sulfate to a bucket of water. As a calcium supplement, use a solution of 1 large spoon of calcium nitrate in a bucket of water.
Advice. To enrich roses with potassium, bury banana peelings under the bush. They contain this element in large quantities.
The most common method of reproduction is cuttings. The rooting rate is almost 100%. It is better to harvest cuttings from vines that are still blooming or have already bloomed in June-August. This is done like this:
Climbing rose seedlings
Sometimes cuttings are treated with a growth agent - heteroauxin or any other.
More complex method - budding. It is suitable only for a few large-flowered climbing roses. The operation is carried out in July-August, but in the south it is also carried out in September. A one- or 2-year-old rosehip is chosen as a rootstock, on the root collar of which a cut is made in the shape of the letter T and a dormant bud is inserted. The area is tightly wrapped with film, and the scion itself is sprinkled with soil. When the 4th leaf appears on the shoots, they are pinched.
Climbing roses are often affected by a fungal disease such as powdery mildew, especially when it is wet and hot weather. As a result, the bush stops growing, the flowers fall off, and the plant withers. For prevention, plants are treated with Bordeaux mixture 2 times: the first time in the spring after removing the spruce branches, the second time when the shoots grow 20 centimeters.
Powdery rose on rose leaves
Sometimes, after removing the cover, reddish-brown spots appear on the bark. They enlarge, darken and can reach the point where the entire shoot seems to be surrounded by a ring. This disease is called koniothyrium, "burn", cancer of the cortex. It is caused by a fungus that has settled inside the tissue and progresses in winter. Diseased lashes are cut off and burned. For prevention purposes in winter, during a thaw, the covering material is raised for ventilation, and during autumn fertilizing reduce the percentage of nitrogen and potassium.
These roses, like no other plants, are suitable for decorating gazebos, arches, pergolas, fences, walls and balconies. Growing them is not very difficult, so if you wish, you can create beautiful, spectacular compositions from different varieties in your dacha.
