Cinder block is a relatively inexpensive material with excellent performance and properties. If desired, you can build a wonderful garage out of it without involving third-party workers. How? Now we'll tell you!
Self-construction of a cinder block garage begins with a number of important preparatory activities. Follow the given sequence.
First of all, we choose appropriate place for the construction of our motorhome. It’s convenient when the garage is located next to the house - in bad weather you won’t have to get wet in the rain and wade through snowdrifts.
It is better that the garage is located on minimum distance from leaving the site. The number of turns should be minimal. It is not recommended to build a cinder block garage in a low-lying area, because... this threatens flooding with atmospheric and groundwater.
Be sure to make sure that there are no communication lines at the planned construction site, such as:
If the listed communications break down in the future, the presence of a garage will significantly complicate their repair.
Make sure that when constructing a garage in the chosen location there will be enough space for opening the gate. It would be useful free place for parking the car during washing and other work.
Having chosen a suitable place to build a garage from, we proceed to marking the site. At this stage you will need a small set of auxiliary tools, namely:
Before starting marking work, you need to accurately determine the dimensions of the future structure. At this point, focus on the following factors:
If a cinder block garage will be used as a place to store a car standard size, a building measuring 6x4 m and a height of 2.5-3 m will be enough for you.
The six-meter length is due to the dimensions of the car (on average 4-5 m) with a half-meter margin for unhindered passage. The width of the car is on average 200-250 cm. Approximately 70 cm should be left for passage, installation of shelving and storage of various types of materials used in the garage.
If you wish, you can adjust the dimensions of the building at your discretion. There are no strict restrictions or standard dimensions for cinder block garages.
Having chosen a place for construction and determined optimal sizes garage, let's start calculating materials. Treat this stage of work with maximum responsibility. Due to errors at the calculation stage, you may simply not have enough materials, or you may waste money on unnecessary blocks.
The calculation will be considered using the example of a garage with dimensions of 6x4 m and a height of 250 cm. The masonry is carried out according to the most common method - half a block. Gate dimensions – 300x230 cm.
The dimensions of one block are standardized - 39x19x18.8 cm. Based on this, 13.6 blocks will be needed to lay 1 m2. You will build the entire building from 586 elements. Typically about 5-10% of the material is added “for reserve”. If the design provides for the presence additional doors And window openings, take this into account when performing the calculation.
You will also need to buy rubble stone for arranging the base, several beams made of metal or wood (in the case of a garage of the specified dimensions, five 430-centimeter x beams will be enough).
Don’t forget to buy the foundation for pouring or the components (cement, sand and crushed stone) to prepare it yourself.
You will also need finishing material. When choosing it, be guided by your preferences.
Buy concrete or prepare it yourself. Standard proportions:
Building blocks
Let's get started self-construction cinder block garage.
We start with arranging the foundation. A cinder block structure will have a relatively light weight. A shallow strip base is sufficient.
We dig a trench in accordance with the markings. Ideally, the depth of the structure should exceed the freezing level of the soil. Most often they are buried by 60-80, and sometimes by 100 cm. At the same stage, we prepare recesses for the cellar and, if their presence is provided for by the project.
We attach plastic film or roofing felt to the walls of the pit for waterproofing.
We fill the bottom of the trench with a 20-30 cm layer of a mixture of crushed stone and gravel, followed by careful compaction.
We install it so that the height of the finished concrete structure approximately 100 mm above the ground level.
We give concrete mixture freeze. According to the regulations, concrete gains strength within 28 days. We lay roofing material on top of the frozen tape in two layers for waterproofing.
Determine the height and length of the walls individually. Laying blocks is done like bricks. The most popular methods are the following:
The thickness of the masonry directly affects the stability finished walls to wind loads, temperature changes, etc.
Most often, as noted, builders use the “brick” masonry method, in which the next laid row overlaps the seams of the underlying one. First we lay out the corners, then we stretch ropes between them to make the masonry even and continue working.
In the process of arranging walls, we adhere to the following important rules:
In the upper part of the walls we leave nests for installing floor beams. Recommended dimensions – 200x200x150 mm. You can then fill in or blow out the gaps. Optimal step placement of nests – 100 cm.
We make the base from I-beams - this is the best option. We select the length of the elements so that it exceeds the width of the building by 250 mm.
We lay the beams across in increments of about 1 m. We fasten the beams in a suitable way, for example, using anchors.
After this, we sew up the base with beams 4 cm thick. We lay the beam as tightly as possible. We put insulation on top of the beams (mineral wool, slag or expanded clay), fill in 2 cm of screed and finish the “pie” with aquazol, rubemast or another suitable material. If you wish, you can choose another finishing coat at your own discretion.
We do it level with the plinth. As a standard, a screed with a thickness of at least 100 mm is poured. We first clean the surface of debris, level it and, if necessary, fill the bottom with sand or fine gravel.
We make the screed from concrete grade M200. We pour the material continuously, slowly, in several layers. Let the concrete set and rub the surface.
To make it convenient to enter the garage, we are installing a ramp in the front part of the building. Be sure to make a 50-70 cm blind area around the entire perimeter of the building. It will ensure timely drainage of water from the base.
Screeds and self-leveling floors
We choose a specific design option at our discretion, buy it or make it ourselves and install it according to the instructions relevant to the selected system.
Supply electricity in an accessible way(“by air” or “underground”). Install and lighting V in the right places.
Let's start with the exterior and... There are no strict restrictions or specific recommendations in this regard. The walls can be rubbed down cement mixture, finish with plaster or whitewash, cover with siding, clapboard or other similar material.
Interior arrangement After you. Desk, shelving - focus on your preferences and needs. Be sure to arrange a fire-proof corner from a fire extinguisher, a box of sand, a shovel and a bucket.
Finally, bring it into the garage. necessary furniture and additional accessories.
Find out what options you have for doing it yourself from our new article.
Good luck!
This article - personal experience on building a garage, supported by photographs. This summer my father-in-law and I were building a garage. I am still a beginner builder, and he completed the house himself 20 years ago. It must be said that everything was done so thoroughly that during all these years not a single crack or problem with the structure arose. Therefore, the garage was built in the image and likeness.
Next, reinforcement is laid out on the bottom. The rods must have a diameter of 6-8 mm, and must be placed in different planes and directions. This way they will better “hold” the foundation. Well, then the concreting process itself begins. 
I advise readers of MirSovetov to get a concrete mixer. There are now many advertisements where concrete mixers are for rent. Payment - daily. Concreting is a very difficult job. The two of us and a concrete mixer spent 2 days on it. It's hard to imagine what would happen without such a quick assistant.So, the solution for the foundation is 1 part cement, 2 parts sand, 5-6 parts crushed stone. All this is loaded into a concrete mixer, kneaded, and then water is added. This is the consistency of concrete.
It is very important to choose the right crushed stone and sand. The crushed stone must be fine, and the sand must be sea sand. There is clay in the river sand, but it is of no use in solution. And it’s easy to distinguish them: river sand orange color, and the sea one is almost white. 
This is the device we came up with for draining the solution from a concrete mixer. This makes it easier to give direction, and the solution does not splash. 
It is important to pour the foundation level. It is very difficult to do masonry on an uneven foundation. Our site is not perfectly level, so we had to come up with this. We placed cinder blocks around the perimeter (inside and outside the foundation) and covered them old film, it turned out good formwork. So in the right places we brought the foundation to zero. 
More reinforcement was placed on top of the concrete (now in the form of a mesh). In general, you should try to lay the foundation with reinforcement along the entire height. 
In the place where the entrance gate was planned, a board of the required length was “sunk” in the center of the foundation. This is what it all looked like: 
This structure should stand for 30-40 days. The first two days you need to protect the concrete from rain. But then it’s useful to spray it from a watering can at least once every two or three days. It is very bad if the concrete dries quickly. Therefore, let it stand for a month and stand well. True, after a week the cinder blocks and board can be removed. We ordered the production of gates to professionals. We cannot do such a thing ourselves. Gate dimensions – 2400x2000mm. And one door is wider than the other for a simple reason - next to each other standing house would not allow doors of equal width to swing open.
I'm getting ahead of myself - a photo of the gate leaf. 
Well, now it's time to lay the cinder block. We calculated that we would need about 600 cinder blocks for the garage, but in the end we still had 80 left. I advise you to buy a used cinder block. The fact is that now new cinder blocks are poured by anyone, the quality is disgusting. But a cinder block “from the past”, even a used one, is simply pleasing. And I forgot to say, a cinder block garage is the warmest!To tell the truth, laying a cinder block just seems easy. After 7-8 rows (and there were already 12 of them), it becomes very difficult to lift it. And in order to drive out all 2.40 m, you will need goats. The laying took 5 days (from sunset to dawn).
The laying of cinder blocks starts from the gate. Each cinder block is leveled. Laying method - dressing; As you can see, the vertical seams are not aligned. 
In the last row of the cinder block, you need to embed logs (ours are pine), after drying them. The logs should be located at a distance of 90-100 cm from each other. And in the 11th, penultimate row of the cinder block, in the places where the logs are planned, a wire with a diameter of 6 mm is inserted into the cavity of the cinder block. It should be positioned in the form of an inverted letter “P”. With its help, the log is secured, in other words, it is twisted, and the excess ends of the wire are cut off. 
And let me remind readers of MirSovetov that it is necessary to provide ventilation holes. We did one near the gate at the top and another at the very back of the garage, also at the top. According to the rules, one hole should be at the bottom, the other at the top, then the air will circulate ideally. However, in our case, the lower hole was moved under the roof, otherwise it would have been flooded during times of rain or melting snow. The holes are closed with a special grille with a valve (sold in hardware stores) from the inside and a mesh on the outside.
Our rafters were made of logs, so it was difficult to align them. But, nevertheless, a strict vertical must be observed. Be sure to check it out!Next, boards (sheathing) 20 mm thick are placed on the rafters. In general there are several options. The first is that the boards are packed in a continuous layer. The second is to place roofing felt on top of the boards (additional insulation). But in our area, boards are an expensive pleasure, so we chose the third option: we placed boards at the top of the rafters, at the bottom and 2 longitudinal rows exactly where the nails will be driven in when laying the slate.
The boards must be positioned strictly horizontally. This is checked using a rule - such a tool made of aluminum strip, 1.5-2 meters long. You can, in principle, check it using a level, but such long levels are rare. What happens if the boards are not laid horizontally? When laying, the slate will crack, and then, during further use, it may swell.Next the slate was laid. Ours is 8-wave. There is an overlap of slate in front and behind the garage (so that the wall does not get wet during rain) of about 30-40 cm, on the sides - 25-30 cm.
Each sheet of slate has a marking - a red inscription, so when laying it should be on top, overlapping only one wave of another sheet of slate. The slate is secured to the sheathing with a slate nail (100 mm) with a flat head. 
And further. When hammering a nail, try not to get 2 nails in one wave. This cannot be allowed. In general, at least 4 nails are driven into each slate sheet.At the same time, a slate or galvanized ridge is nailed with slate nails. It is overlapped. Again, be careful not to hit the nails in the same wave of slate.
After finishing the roof, it is necessary to lay out the gables. It is very difficult to lay them from a cinder block, it is easier if it is slag or white brick. To reduce the load on the foundation, the brick is placed “at the end” (in other words, sideways). 
So, in principle, the garage is ready. 
Then they dug an inspection hole, 80 cm wide, 150 cm deep, and 180 cm long. They lined it “half a brick” with slag brick (it is waterproof, which is important, given that the hole is usually damp) and plastered it. A frame was welded around the perimeter from a corner (50 mm), a wire “whisker” was welded to it, which was then (during the process of concreting the floor) embedded in the concrete. The pit is covered with a board (forty board), which is laid across, not fastened with anything, and can be removed if necessary (it prevents moisture from evaporating from the pit and protects the bottom of the car from corrosion). The board also needs to be oiled. A ladder was also welded from the corner. Sorry for the photo quality. 
Here is the final look, however, boxes for vegetables are temporarily stored in the pit. 
The floor is concreted with the same concrete solution as the foundation. Floor thickness 7-8 cm. 
Next, before the electrical wiring is done. And then the walls are plastered. The solution (1 cement + 4 sand + water) is applied with a trowel, leveled with a trowel and smoothed with a special board. You can then paint the walls if you wish. 
In principle, the garage is ready. I would like to express my gratitude to my father-in-law, who shared with me many of the nuances of construction, gleaned back in Soviet times. Perhaps some new technologies have appeared now, but then they built, as they say, to last. And everything has been checked - the extension to the house, built using this technology, has stood safely for 20 years.
That's my whole story. I will be glad if it is useful to some of the readers of MirSovetov. Please note that construction is not a cheap or quick task. The entire garage cost us 12 thousand hryvnia plus 1 thousand for registration, and construction lasted 3.5 months. By the standards of our city, this is cheap, because a garage in a cooperative costs 3-4 thousand dollars. So, we saved money. And the garage next to the house is a very convenient thing. 
Preface
Proper car maintenance requires special conditions storage As a result, the garage must meet a number of requirements. Until recently, the construction of such a structure could cause difficulties. However, today's technologies make it possible to build frame garage with your own hands, spending a minimum amount of money and in the shortest possible time.
Nowadays, many people build not only frame houses, but garages are also built using this technology. The practicality and cost-effectiveness of this technology has been confirmed big amount buildings that are being built on it all over the world. The structure is most often made of wood, so this structure is lightweight and installation of the foundation does not require large expenses.
TO positive qualities frame garage can be attributed to low thermal conductivity. Thanks to this, warming up in winter time car garage is carried out quite quickly. Also, such a structure has high strength. Therefore, you do not need to worry about the destruction of the structure from the influence of natural factors.
Before proceeding with construction, it is very important to prepare a project for a frame garage. Until recently, this had to be done manually, and the calculations took a lot of time. With the advent of specialized software, develop project documentation it became much easier. This, in turn, will make it possible to reduce construction time. Such a program accurately calculates the dimensions of all necessary components. If it is not possible to use such programs yourself, then you can find a building plan on the Internet, or order it from an architectural company.
Then you can start choosing a place for the garage. Preferably, an area measuring 10x10 m. After this, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work on the construction site. To do this, the site will need to be cleared of various plants. You also need to compact and level the soil. Do not forget about creating a cushion of sand and gravel for the foundation. To make the surface smooth, you need to level it using a vibrating plate.
As many people know, the basis that ensures the strength of any structure is the foundation. When choosing the type of garage support, you should first of all pay attention to your own financial capabilities, soil characteristics and building design. For such structures, monolithic is most often chosen. concrete slab. It also acts as a subfloor, which can later be finished floor covering. The main advantage of a monolithic slab is that it distributes the load evenly. Creating a strong garage foundation requires a mandatory sequence of actions.
Laying the foundation begins with digging a trench around the entire perimeter of the building with a depth of 40–50 cm.
Now it is important to carry out manipulations on tying the fittings for the garage base. For this you will need rods with a diameter of 10–12 mm. They can be tied together with wire. It is important that the reinforcement does not protrude from under the foundation. Otherwise, it will be subject to premature corrosion.
Once the reinforcement frame has been created, you can begin pouring concrete. To create a mixture of mortar, it is best to use a concrete mixer. When it is already poured, you need to let it gain strength. This will require you to wait a couple of weeks. After which you can proceed to other stages of construction.
The skeleton of the garage can be assembled from wood or metal. Most cheap option- this is to make a frame garage with your own hands from wooden bases. But such material is flammable and for some this can be a big disadvantage. Therefore, in order to reduce the possibility of fire affecting a wooden structure, all boards used must be impregnated with fire-resistant materials. It also wouldn't hurt wooden blocks coat with antiseptic. This will give additional protection from moisture and rotting.
The most fireproof and durable material is metal. Load-bearing structures made from iron profiles are the most durable. Their connections are not just bolted together, but also welded, which is most reliable. A frame garage of this type will withstand any pressure of bad weather. Therefore, the car will be under excellent protection.
From the point of view of financial possibilities, we propose to consider in more detail the most affordable option construction. To make the base for the wall structure wooden garage, you will need to lay the starting block on the foundation. It must first be covered waterproofing material. It is necessary to fasten the beams using self-unclosing anchors. It is better to place them in increments of 1–1.5 m. For such a bottom trim, boards measuring 100x50 mm are suitable.
Upon completion, you can begin installing other parts of the wall frame. At this stage, racks are installed, which will require beams measuring 100x100 mm. A length of 3 meters is best. This will result in less waste.
It is recommended to take a step of 120 cm between the racks. They can be attached using pre-prepared grooves. You can do without them, then fastening occurs with nails or self-tapping screws 70–90 mm. To give the structure strength, it is necessary to make diagonal connections in the corners, install jumpers and secure the upper wooden strapping belt. With a stand length of 3 m, it is recommended to make the middle belt at a height of 1.5 m. This will strengthen the structure and simplify further wall cladding.
To support the weight of the gate structure, the entry point must have reinforced parts. In any of the gaps garage doors it is necessary to install reinforced support. It is recommended to treat with bioprotective compounds and antipyranes before installation wooden structure.
Most often, car enthusiasts choose a gable roof for a garage. But for cheaper construction, you can also make a pitched roof. For the first option, you will need a ridge beam with a section of 100x100 mm. It is attached to the upper belt. For rafter elements boards measuring 100x40 mm will be useful.
If you want you can take it inexpensive materials and work a little on creating it. The main thing is that the structure is convenient for storing a car.
The times when brick was popular in the construction of garages have passed; now practical owners are trying to use alternative materials that help save construction time and money:
Depending on which material you choose, take into account the specific technologies for working with each of them. We will describe them in more detail and talk about construction technology.
Very quickly built cheap garage with your own hands from corrugated sheets. To begin, select a suitable grade of material; grades S-20 or PS with a sheet thickness of 0.5 mm are best suited. The letter C in this case indicates the purpose of the material, it is used in the construction of walls, the number indicates the rigidity - the higher it is, the stronger the sheet.
Attention! Do not buy sheets of grade -8 under any circumstances. They will cost less, but it performance characteristics leaves you wanting the best. Among the disadvantages short term suitability, poor wind resistance, freezing of walls in winter.
To create a garage you will need:
Before you build a garage cheaply from this material, you need to study the technology, which consists of the following steps:
Install monolithic foundation- make a trench half a meter down, fill it with sand and fill it with water. Make holes 0.5 m deep for the posts. Attach wooden formwork and install reinforcement secured with wire. Install the racks, level them, and fill them with M300 concrete for two to three weeks.
Attention! Wait until completely dry for at least two weeks, however quickly you want to move on to the next step. If you continue work earlier, the foundation will soon begin to crack, which will be more difficult to fix.
Build a metal frame - when you carefully study the drawing, you can start cutting pipes. Next, weld horizontal rods to the posts at three points.
Attention! If you chose a wooden frame, at this stage you need to weld a special fastening for the beams to the racks. Self-tapping screws are needed to secure this type of frame.
Adjust the sheets to size, it’s good if you have friends who can help with this. Attach the metal sheets using self-tapping screws.
Install the gate using previously purchased elements - weld the frame from the corners and cover it with corrugated sheets.
For construction pitched roof build a frame from metal rods or wooden beams, attach the clapboard to them.
Attention! Choose a lining based on weather conditions: the need to withstand the weight of snow, resistance to sunlight.
Wooden garages are beautiful to look at and practical to use, they are environmentally friendly and easy to install. The nuances include the presence of two construction options: the method of installing a frame and from a block house. You can choose the one that suits you best. The first method is implemented cheaply and quickly, but the second is more reliable.
The technology for constructing a garage from such material has the following stages:
Attention! If you don’t want to see your garage skewed, take the previous point seriously.
Attention! Wood absorbs moisture, which can cause it to rot. Treat it with antiseptics, and then you can quickly build a garage with your own hands using minimal costs for materials.
Probably the most difficult stage is pouring and constructing the frame. But if you have encountered this type of work before, it will not take much time and labor. Take boards about 2.5*10 cm thick or standard lining. If you use wood, it needs to be sheathed and covered with a waterproofing film.
You have seen for yourself that this will not take many hours. Now you can look at the price lists of materials and you will understand that it is also inexpensive.
Cinder block can be different, for example:
Their durability has been tested by time - they are even used to build houses in warm climate regions, not to mention garages. To strengthen the slabs themselves, manufacturers add polystyrene, perlite and various useful components to the composition.
The only drawback of cinder block is its sensitivity to moisture. Therefore, for areas where groundwater flows, it does not serve for a long time; there it is better to choose another material. Unfortunately, a budget cinder block cannot even be varnished like wood.
Attention! Not only in composition, but also in structure they distinguish the following types of this material: solid - for the foundation and hollow - for the walls. Mixing up usually leads to the destruction of the house.
The technology for constructing a garage cheaply with your own hands from cinder blocks is in many ways similar to the process of building from wood:
Attention! The cinder block is laid in a manner identical to laying brick, only faster. This is done using the spoon or poke method. Make the walls thicker and the garage will last longer.
When erecting walls, the corners are first made, cords are stretched between them, thanks to which the evenness of the structure is ensured.
The floor is screeded with about 10 cm of concrete grade M200.
All you have to do is wire the electricity and then finish the inside of the garage.
You have become familiar with the basic materials that are often used to inexpensively build a garage with your own hands in one month. You can choose the ones that are easiest to use or suitable for conditions your climate region. We wish you good luck in construction and imagination in creating interior decoration. Remember: the cost of constructing a garage completely covers the risk of theft of a car left unattended.
Many vehicle owners are wondering how to quickly build a garage from inexpensive building materials. A car that is parked under open air, exposed to various atmospheric influences. This not only makes you burn out paintwork, but the body, components and parts under the hood also quickly corrode.
The cheapest garage is the metal “shell”, famous in the 90s, or a ready-made prefabricated metal one. But this is not at all the best option, since condensation collects there, there are temperature changes, which also negatively affects the car, but it is better to build a warm room.
Today there are many building materials for constructing a building. They differ from each other not only in cost, but also in specific gravity, which determines the type of foundation for the structure. The lighter the structure, the less powerful the foundation can be made.
Laying the foundation
For a heavy structure it is better to make a strip foundation, for a light one it is enough to make a columnar one. The only thing we must not forget is that even if an inexpensive columnar foundation is being built, it must be laid to the freezing depth. In our latitudes this is at least 80 cm. Columnar foundation, naturally, will reduce the cost of building a garage. Some argue that the foundation can be laid in a trench 40 cm deep. But then it can be excruciatingly painful when after cold winter the structure will “lead” due to the fact that the foundation will crack and begin to collapse. This effect may not be noticed immediately - only after a few years.
Before starting construction, you need to carefully calculate all costs and weigh your financial capabilities.
Only after this can you decide what to build a cheap option from.
Construction materials
To build this structure with your own hands, you don’t have to be a skilled craftsman. It is enough to have basic skills: the ability to work with a hammer, screwdriver, electric saw.
The first and mandatory stage is the creation of a project. To do this, you also don’t have to resort to the services of a designer. After all, a garage is a simple rectangular box. The best option- 4x6 m with a height of 2 m. If you build it for a minibus, then you can make the width and length a little larger (although this is not necessary), and the height - 2.5 m.
Construction project
To optimize construction costs, there is nothing left to do but build a frame garage. In accordance with the dimensions, you need to calculate the number of racks. At the same time, do not forget that the spans between them must correspond to the width wall panels taking into account the fact that they are attached end-to-end, and sandwich panels are overlapped (they have special locks for this purpose).
Today it is prestigious to have automatic overhead gates, but they are expensive. Therefore, if you decide to stay within the minimum budget, then choose the cheaper option. You can purchase the same type of gate, but with mechanical (manual) lifting of the door leaf. But still, this element should not be neglected.
Automatic lift gates
There is one more structural element, which will help optimize the cost of construction. Instead of gable roof, which requires the construction of a rather complex rafter system, you can make a lean-to one. Under it rafter system much simpler. But you should not neglect its strength, since this can affect the strength of the entire structure. The slope of a pitched roof must be at least 25°, so as not to create excessive snow load on the structure and it did not collapse.
During construction, you should not forget that the floor must be higher than the ground level, so that neither rain nor groundwater didn't get inside. You don’t have to do this right away concrete screed. You can cover the floor with crushed stone and compact it. Over time, when funds become available, it will be possible to make a screed using this crushed stone base.
Sometimes new vehicle owners begin to think about how to quickly build a garage when it rains and then gets cold. You can quickly build a frame and sheathe it. This will take 2-3 weeks. But it is important to remember that the foundation required for any permanent structure must be settled for at least 3 weeks until it reaches 70% strength. Therefore, if you want to build a room for the rainy and cold season, you need to start work in the spring, as soon as the ground has completely thawed.
