Device storm sewer(storm drainage) - a system that serves to protect the foundations of houses and the territories that surround them from rain and melt water. The main task of the mechanism is to collect rain and melt water in the canal lines. One of the main elements is rainwater inlets that collect water from drainpipes. In general, the system is able to stop the flooding of foundations, which can lead to destruction. Storm drain is a mandatory equipment in engineering country house or garden. Installing a high-quality drain will help you preserve your lawn, flower garden, and most importantly, protect your house from destruction.
To do this, we must answer the question, where does the sedimentary liquid go? Some of the water is absorbed by the ground, but due to the development of civilization, most of the land has turned into asphalt. Now she has nowhere to go. Because of this, rain can destroy our yards and contribute to dampness in our homes. Today, the installation of storm sewers is combating this problem. In most cases they work by gravity.
When choosing technologies, pay attention to the following indicators:
50-100 cubic meters - this is exactly how much water flows annually from under a country house. The storm system collects all the water and distributes it evenly among the areas. If sedimentary water is left unchecked, it will cause great harm to the owner of the site. The consequence of this may be destruction of the foundation and rotting of vegetation on the site.
Stormwater has the following advantages:
The drainage design consists of the following components:
Now let's take a closer look at the functions and features of each.
Gutters collect water resources in places with huge mechanical loads, for example: parking lots and garages. They are used from different materials: plastic, concrete and polymer concrete. The package may include special metal nozzles and a decorated mesh that protect them from clogging with large debris.
Storm water inlets work with point collection of water from the surface and roofs of houses, if a connection is established with drainpipes. They are made of plastic and can withstand moving a car. The package may also include: a trash can, a special partition and a cast iron or galvanized grill.
The pipes that make up the gutters are designed to transport water to the collector and are used for outdoor work. Material – polypropylene. When designing systems, as a rule, two options for laying pipes are used:
Important! When choosing a pipe diameter, it is necessary to calculate the expected amount of precipitation. Also, to control storm drains, it is necessary to organize inspections and install inspection wells to clean the wire tubes.
The design of drainage systems may include rain wells, drainage trays, sand traps and underground drains.
Attention to buyers! The storm drainage scheme is planned for landscape design and proportionally depends on the vertical structure of the site.
These structures are installed at turning points of drainage systems, as well as on too-long pipes every 25 m. Inspection wells allow us to carry out an inspection and monitor the cleanliness of the drainage system. Previously, they were made by hand from reinforced concrete rings or laid out with bricks. Today it is plastic.
Their advantages include the fact that they:
Before buying, we need to familiarize ourselves with the classification of gutters. They are divided according to the following criteria: method of drainage and type of drainage.
It is important to know that drainage and storm system installed in parallel. They shouldn't unite. Moreover, the stormwater pipeline is laid higher in their parallel.
Advice! Installation of systems closed type with large pipes is produced on city streets or factories. But in some cases it is ideal for a site if it is a large area.
PS: You can get acquainted with each type of water drainage by looking at the photos posted on the Internet.
Advice. To properly lay a drainage system, you need to choose the most shortcut to the descent point. Drainage and storm water should never be combined!
Work should begin immediately after finishing the façade planning and landscaping of the area. You need:
Advice. The system should consist of linear and point drainage; the kit may also include protective devices from dirt. So before installation, you need to consult with a specialist: after all, any system is selected individually for the area.
Installation of storm drains plays a big role in its further performance. The correct sequence of actions will ensure proper operation and high efficiency. On the Internet you can find many different photos explaining the installation principles. We will try to describe it to you below.
So, install the components in the following sequence:
Important! Install inspection wells, they will help avoid clogging. The collector must be installed, lowered to a greater depth, so that in frosty weather it does not freeze; if this is not possible, insulate it!
Attention! If possible, avoid turning pipelines. If you don’t have it, create 90 degree angles.
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Drainage in a summer cottage is considered to be a fairly important hydraulic engineering operation. The easiest way to improve water balance soil must be present, because the moisture ratio at different times of the year can change not only due to natural factors. Sometimes even a nearby construction site can upset the balance.
A simple system for draining water from a building
Soil drainage can be done using open trenches or specialized pipes placed in the ground. The first of them are simple in design, but do not look very aesthetically pleasing. In this regard, some developers create closed channels that do not interfere with the attractiveness of the landscape.
Although surface collection systems are relatively simple, they effectively remove moisture from the site in the form of precipitation. Through special trays and depressions, water is directed to a central drain or drain well. The advantages include:
Helpful advice! If we're talking about about how to make drainage on a site with your own hands without unnecessary financial investments, then first of all you should consider the option with a system of open channels.
Deep line systems are ideal for both stormwater and groundwater, lying in close proximity. Most often they are arranged using polymer pipes, which sink into the ground at a certain distance.
In practice, two types of drainage with closed channels are well applicable:
Note! Within one site, the presented species can be combined. For example, for drainage system At home, you can use point collection, and for groundwater - linear.
Before making a drainage system on the site, you need to select its type based on operational features. It is worth considering the most optimal options for installing water drainage systems, which are popular under certain conditions.
If groundwater is close to the groundwater level, a deep linear system may be the best option. It will drain moisture from the entire area into a drainage well, ravine or ditch located a level below. It is proposed to use perforated panels as the main elements plastic pipes in the geotextile filter.
One of the most simple ways drainage in a summer cottage with groundwater located near the surface comes down to the following scheme:
For your information! Knowing how to properly drainage around a site and on its territory with close groundwater, you can avoid serious problems associated with excess moisture.
Related article:
For land with clay soil, a system with an open channel arrangement is more suitable. At closed system pipelines, water will not be able to seep through such soil and go into specialized settling tanks or other suitable places.
In places where water accumulates, ditches are dug with a depth of at least 50 cm. Their width should increase as they approach the receiving site. It is necessary to make the widest trench that collects water from the ditches adjacent to it. To facilitate draining and protect the edges from collapse, the side walls are cut at an angle of 30 degrees.
Because open view spoils the trenches appearance plot, it is necessary to decorate them. It not only improves aesthetic properties, but also strengthens side surfaces open lines. In this regard, the operation of the system increases significantly.
Stones can be used as material for decorating pits different sizes. The largest of them should be placed on the bottom, and the medium and small ones should be placed on top. If you have good financial resources, the surface can be covered marble chips, which will give the branch lines a respectable appearance.
If money is tight, then ordinary brushwood can be a good option for decoration. It is necessary to find dry branches of any wood species that grow nearby. They should be tied in bunches and placed on special stands installed at the bottom of the ditch.
The thickness of the bundles of brushwood should be no more than 30 cm. It is better to place the branches so that the larger ones lie in the center, and the smaller ones at the edges.
Related article:
Many companies offer professional services for installing drainage systems, but they are not that cheap. During the work, a double-wall pipe with a geotextile filter will be used.
Drainage structures will function properly for many years if the basic rules are followed during operation.
An integral part of a private house or cottage is a storm drainage system, which provides an aesthetic appearance to the residential building and the area adjacent to it. It also prevents premature destruction of the foundations of buildings and the roots of plants growing on the site. To an inexperienced person in the field of "water disposal", this moment may seem like a dark forest. In this article we will analyze everything point by point: drainage of surface, storm and melt water from buildings and the site.
To create a storm drainage system, also known as a surface water drainage system, basic knowledge in construction and data about the area being developed are required. Storm sewerage is gravity-flow, i.e. is arranged at an angle and includes the following elements:
Roof drainage receives precipitation at the roof level, through trays, gutters, funnels and sends it to the surface drainage system.
For design you need to know:
For design, it is necessary to decide in what places the drainpipes will be located and how many there will be. A diagram is drawn up that shows the differences in elevation of the surface of the site and the buildings on it. The diagram indicates the location of all storm sewer elements, including pipes, inspection wells and water discharge points. When designing, the amount of required materials and their costs are also calculated.
The roof drain material is varied: steel, copper, steel with polymer coating, aluminum, etc. Plastic is especially popular. It is economical, resistant to damage, is a sound-insulating material, airtight, and light in weight and installation. To properly design a roof drain you will need:
The quantity and type of each element depends on the perimeter of the roof and the amount of pumped liquid, because too powerful a drainage system is irrational from the point of view of financial costs, and a weak one will not cope with the task. Need to find best option. The figure shows required dimensions, characteristic of central Russia.
Installation is carried out after developing the design of the entire drainage system and reading the instructions supplied by the supplier store (each system has its own design features that must be taken into account). General installation sequence and work performed:
Tips from the professionals:
Surface water drainage system or surface drainage consists of point drainage systems and linear channels.
Point drainage They are small wells locally connected to roof drainage. The trays are laid below the freezing level of the pipes. The installation of such drainage is similar to the installation of a roof drain. A trench is being prepared (lower than the freezing depth of the pipes, you can find out everything in the same SNiP) at a slope towards the collector. Sand is poured in a layer of 20 cm. Pipes are laid using fittings. If the sealing is maintained, the pipes are backfilled.
Linear channels come in two types - open or closed, equipped with grates or meshes to retain large debris. The gratings should be predominantly made of metal, because... withstand heavy loads (especially in places at the entrance to the garage).
Advice from the professionals. To effectively collect surface water, a comprehensive arrangement of storm and point drainage is necessary. In case of heavy precipitation, the bulk of the water will be drained by surface drainage.
You can see what the process of installing a surface water drainage system looks like in the video:
Deep drainage system is provided if the area where the site is located is prone to prolonged rains. Such a system will protect the site from erosion, protect trees from premature death (due to rotting roots), and protect the foundation from the destructive effects of water.
Groundwater drainage differs from the systems described above in that it is installed at a greater depth and in the case of groundwater close to the surface of the earth, which can flood a basement or underground garage. Drainage is combined with stormwater, and stormwater pipes are laid higher than the drainage. It is necessary to understand the difference between stormwater and drainage. Storm drainage for drainage of rain, melt water and floods, and deep drainage for drainage of groundwater and possible flooding. Surface and deep drainage are connected using special node connections to accumulate excess water in one place and its subsequent release, recycling or reuse. Drains are installed parallel to each other.
This is important: during heavy rainfall, the water in large quantities behind a short time passes through the storm drain. When such a flow of water enters the groundwater drainage system, this water flows from the pipes into the ground, thereby not draining it but flooding it, that is, it begins to perform the opposite function. Therefore, the surface water drainage system should be connected to the groundwater drainage system no earlier than the places where the water drainage and not drainage pipes pass, if you look at the direction of water movement into the systems. Soil drainage is carried out in places where perforated pipes are laid. Water is drained through sealed pipes.
According to the method of groundwater extraction, they are divided into: vertical, horizontal and combined drainage. Vertical drainage consists of vertical ribbed wells lowered into the groundwater layer. They are equipped with pumps and filters, respectively, for cleaning and pumping groundwater outside the territory. This scheme is quite complicated both in installation and in operation.
Horizontal drainage consists of perforated pipes laid at the optimal pumping outlet depth in dug ditches lined with crushed stone. Ditches are dug throughout the site in a herringbone pattern.
The installation of drainage, regardless of the type of site, begins with the arrangement drainage well in the farthest part of the site, away from the house. You can use ready-made plastic wells.
In places corner connections inspection wells are installed to facilitate communication maintenance.
The depth of drainage is selected based on its objectives: if the goal is to collect groundwater to protect the basement, then the depth should correspond to the level of the basement floor; if the goal is to drain abundant waters descending into soil - depth corresponds to the depth of the foundation.
The pipes are wrapped with a special material () to prevent sand and gravel from getting into the pipes, with which the pipe is covered with a layer of 20-30 cm. After this, the pipe can be covered with ordinary soil. Unlike vertical drainage, water collected through holes in pipes is discharged by gravity on a slope, rather than by pumps.
Horizontal drainage is more popular than vertical or even combined drainage due to its cost-effectiveness and ease of installation.
You can read more about the design of the groundwater drainage system in the article:
Excess water is removed outside the site, into a ditch or reservoir. If this is not possible, then a well or reservoir is installed within the site, from where the water can be reused.
Advice:
It is recommended to lay drainage in ditches with V-shaped walls with a wall slope of 30◦ in the cross section of the ditch. Width 50 cm. Recommended ditch slope1-3 cm per meter of length. Wells can be equipped from any material that is not subject to corrosion.
Maintenance of the above systems is not difficult if they are properly designed and constructed. Main points in service:
The shelf life of a properly designed, installed, and maintained drainage system is on average fifty years, or even much more.
Tips from the professionals:
Experienced builders and country residents know well that “excess” water on the site is bad. Excess water leads to flooding of the foundation and ground floor, washout of the base, flooding of beds, waterlogging of the area, etc. As a result, in spring, autumn and even summer, summer cottage You can't walk without rubber boots.
In this article we will look at:
A whole book could be written about the types of surface and ground water, as well as drainage and storm sewer systems. Therefore, we will leave beyond the scope of this article a detailed listing of the types and causes of groundwater occurrence, and will concentrate on practice. But without minimal theoretical knowledge, taking on the independent arrangement of drainage and storm sewerage is throwing money away.
The point is that even an improperly designed drainage system functions for the first few years. Then, due to clogging (silting) of a pipe wrapped in geotextile, which was placed in clayey, loamy, etc. soil, drainage stops working. But money has already been spent on drainage construction and, most importantly, drainage construction involves a large amount of excavation work involving equipment.
Therefore, simply digging up and relaying a drainage pipe 3-5 years after it was laid is difficult and costly. The site is already inhabited, done landscape design, a blind area has been equipped, a gazebo, a bathhouse, etc. have been installed.
You will have to rack your brains on how to redo the drainage so as not to ruin the entire area.
From here - drainage construction should always be based on geological soil survey data(which will help you find a waterproof layer in the form of clay at a depth of 1.5-2 m), hydrogeological surveys and clear knowledge of what kind of water leads to flooding of a house or waterlogging of an area.
Surface waters are seasonal in nature, associated with the period of snowmelt and abundance of rain. Groundwater is divided into three main groups:
Moreover, if surface water is not drained in time, it turns into underground water when infiltrated (absorbed) into the ground.
The volume of surface water usually exceeds the volume of groundwater.
Conclusion: surface runoff must be drained using storm drainage systems, and don’t try to do surface drainage!
Storm drainage is a system consisting of trays, pipes or ditches dug into the ground that carry water from drains outside the site + competent organization relief on garden territory. This will allow you to avoid stagnant zones on the site (lenses, pools), where water will accumulate, which simply has nowhere to go, and further waterlogging.
The main mistakes that are made when installing drainage yourself:
The first thing that comes to mind in order to equip a budget option for storm drainage on a site is to lay special trays.
Trays can be made of concrete or plastic, but they are expensive. This makes our portal users look for more cheap options arrangement of storm drainage and drainage systems from the site.
Denis1235 FORUMHOUSE Member
I need to make an inexpensive storm drain, about 48 m long, along the edge of the fence, to drain the melt water that comes from the neighbor. The water must be drained into a ditch. I was wondering how to drain the water. At first it occurred to me to buy and install special trays, but then they would be left with “extra” grates, and I don’t need any special aesthetics for the storm drain. I decided to buy asbestos-cement pipes and saw them lengthwise with a grinder, thereby getting a homemade tray.
Despite the budgetary nature of this idea, the user was not attracted to the need to cut asbestos-cement pipes on his own. The second option is the opportunity to buy gutters (plastic or metal) and lay them on a prepared base in a concrete layer of about 100 mm.
Portal users dissuaded Denis1235 from this idea in favor of the first option, which is more durable.
Hooked on the idea of an inexpensive storm drain, but not wanting to deal with cutting pipes on my own, Denis1235 I found a factory that produces asbestos-cement pipes, where they will immediately cut them into pieces 2 m long (so that the 4-meter one does not crack during transportation) and ready-made trays will be delivered to the site. All that remains is to develop a scheme for laying the trays.
The result is the following “pie”:
When installing such a storm drain, do not forget to lay a metal mesh (for reinforcement) at the joints and leave a deformation gap (3-5 mm) between the trays.
Denis1235
As a result, I made a budget rain shower at the dacha. It took 2 days to dig the trench, another two days to pour concreting and install the route. I spent 10 thousand rubles on trays.
Practice has shown that the route “overwintered” well, did not crack and intercepts water from its neighbor, leaving the area dry. Also interesting is the option of rain (storm) sewerage for the portal user with the nickname yury_by.
yury_by FORUMHOUSE Member
Because The crisis doesn’t seem to be ending, then I started thinking about how to install a storm drain to drain rainwater away from the house. I want to solve the problem, save money, and do everything efficiently.
After some thought, the user decided to make a storm drain for water drainage based on flexible double-walled corrugated pipes(they are 2 times cheaper than “red” sewer ones), which are used for laying power cables underground. But, because the depth of the drainage route is planned to be only 200-300 mm with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, yury_by I was afraid that the corrugated pipe might break in the winter if water got between the two layers.
Eventually yury_by I decided to take a budget “gray” pipe, which is used when installing internal sewerage. Although he had concerns that the pipes, which were not as rigid as the “red” ones, would break in the ground, practice has shown that nothing happened to them.
yury_by
If you step on the “gray” pipe, it turns into an oval, but there are no significant loads in the place where I buried it. The lawn has just been laid and there is foot traffic. Having laid the pipe in the trench and sprinkled it with soil, I made sure that they kept their shape and the storm drain was working.
The user liked the option of installing an inexpensive storm drain based on “gray” sewer pipes so much that he decided to repeat it. All the nuances of the process are clearly demonstrated by the following photographs.
We dig a hole to collect water.
Level the base.
We install a concrete ring.
The next stage is to fill the bottom of the well with gravel of fraction 5-20.
We cast a homemade well cover from concrete.
We paint the manhole cover.
We make an insert into the well with drainage plastic “gray” sewer pipe, maintaining a slope of the route of 1 cm per 1 linear meter.
We spill the pipe with a mixture of sand and water so that there are no voids left between the walls of the trench and the pipe.
To prevent the pipe from floating, it can be pressed down with a brick or board.
We put the lid on, install the hatch and fill everything with soil.
This completes the production of the budget rain shower.
Not everyone gets the “right” plots. In SNT or in new cuts, the land may be very swampy, or the developer may have a peat bog. Build a normal house for permanent residence on such land, not an easy one summer cottage- both difficult and expensive. There are two ways out of this situation - sell/exchange the plot or start draining and putting the plot in order.
In order not to deal with various expensive alterations in the future, users of our portal offer budget options drainage and drainage of the territory at the base car tires. This option allows you to save your family budget.
Yuri Podymakhin Member of FORUMHOUSE
Peat soil is characterized high level groundwater. On my site, the water is almost level with the surface, and after rain it does not go into the ground. To take away top water, it must be thrown outside the site. I didn’t spend money on buying special pipes for drainage, but made drainage from car tires.
The system is installed as follows: a ditch is dug, tires are placed in it, and the tires are covered with polyethylene on top so that the earth from above does not fall inside. Polyethylene can also be additionally pressed with pieces of slate that are “unnecessary” in the household. This will increase the overall rigidity of the structure. Water enters the “tire” pipeline and is then discharged outside the site.
But there are also “harder” places where much more needs to be done.
Seryoga567 FORUMHOUSE Member
I have a plot in SNT, with total area 8 acres. There is a building on the site that I plan to complete and expand. The place is very low. Because drainage grooves for drainage in SNT they are in a deplorable state, where they are buried, littered or clogged, then the water does not go anywhere. The water level is so high that you can draw water from the well with a bucket, holding it by the handle. In the spring, the water in the dacha sits for a long time, the area actually turns into a swamp and, if it dries out, it is only in the summer when it is very hot. Nobody wants to put the drainage ditches in order, so everyone floats. Therefore, I decided that it was useless to fight with my neighbors. You need to raise your site and find a way to dispose of all the “unnecessary” water from the site.
LECTURE 3
DISCHARGE OF SURFACE (ATMOSPHERE) WATER
The organization of surface rain and melt water runoff in residential areas, neighborhoods and neighborhoods is carried out using an open or closed drainage system.
On city streets in residential areas, drainage is usually carried out using a closed system, i.e. city drainage network (storm sewer). The installation of drainage networks is a citywide event.
In the territories of microdistricts and neighborhoods, drainage is carried out by an open system and consists of organizing the flow of surface water from building sites, sites for various purposes and areas of green spaces into the passage trays, through which the water is directed to the carriageway trays of adjacent city streets. This organization of drainage is carried out using a vertical layout of the entire territory, ensuring drainage created by longitudinal and transverse slopes on all driveways, sites and territories of a microdistrict or block.
If the network of passages does not represent a system of interconnected passages or if the capacity of the trays on the driveways is insufficient during heavy rainfall, a more or less developed network of open trays, ditches and ditches is envisaged in the territory of the microdistricts.
An open drainage system is the simplest system, which does not require complex and expensive structures. In operation, this system requires constant supervision and cleaning.
The open system is used in microdistricts and neighborhoods relatively small area with a terrain favorable for water flow, without low drainage areas. In large neighborhoods open system does not always provide surface water drainage without overflowing trays and flooding driveways, so then a closed system is used.
A closed drainage system provides for the development of an underground network of drainage pipes - collectors - on the territory of the microdistrict, with the reception of surface water by water intake wells and the direction of the collected water into the city drainage network.
As possible option apply combined system, when an open network of trays, ditches and ditches is created on the territory of a microdistrict, supplemented by an underground network of drainage collectors. Underground drainage is very important element engineering improvement of residential areas and microdistricts, it meets the high requirements of comfort and general improvement of residential areas.
Surface drainage on the territory of the microdistrict must be ensured to such an extent that from any point in the territory the flow of water can easily reach the trays of the roadway of adjacent streets.
As a rule, water is diverted from buildings towards driveways, and when green spaces are adjacent, to trays or ditches running along the buildings.
On dead-end driveways, when the longitudinal slope is directed towards the dead end, drainless places are formed, from which water has no outlet; Sometimes such points appear on driveways. Water is released from such places using overflow trays, in the direction of passages located at lower elevations (Fig. 3.1).
Trays are also used to drain surface water from buildings and sites for various purposes, in green areas.
Overflow trays can be triangular, rectangular or trapezoidal in shape. The slopes of the trays are taken depending on the soil and the method of strengthening them in the range of 1:1 to 1:1.5. The depth of the tray is not less, and most often not more than 15-20 cm. The longitudinal slope of the tray is taken to be at least 0.5%.
Earthen trays are unstable, they are easily washed away by rain, and they lose their shape and longitudinal slope. Therefore, it is most advisable to use trays with reinforced walls or prefabricated ones made of some stable material.
When there is a significant flow of water, the trays turn out to be insufficient across their entire capacity and are replaced with ditches. Typically, ditches have a trapezoidal shape with a bottom width of at least 0.4 m and a depth of 0.5 m; the side slopes have a steepness of 1:1.5. Strengthen the slopes with concrete, paving or turf. With significant sizes, at a depth of 0.7-0.8 m or more, ditches turn into ditches.
It should be borne in mind that ditches and ditches at intersections with driveways and sidewalks must be enclosed in pipes or bridges must be built over them. It is difficult and difficult to release water from ditches and ditches into driveway trays due to different depths and differences in elevations.
Therefore, the use of open ditches and ditches is permissible only in exceptional cases, especially since ditches and ditches generally disrupt the amenities of modern neighborhoods. Trays, with their usually shallow depth, are acceptable if they do not create great inconvenience for movement.
With relatively small areas of green space, drainage can be successfully carried out open method along the trays of paths and alleys.
When paths and driveways are located among green spaces over a relatively short distance, surface water flow can be carried out without installing trays or ditches, directly onto planting areas. In such cases, fencing with sides for paths and driveways is not suitable. In this case, the formation of stagnant waters and swamps must be excluded. Such runoff is especially appropriate when it is necessary to artificially irrigate green areas.
When designing an underground drainage network Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the drainage of surface water from main roads and pedestrian alleys, as well as from places where visitors gather (main squares of the park; squares in front of theaters, restaurants, etc.).
In places where surface water is discharged from the territory of microdistricts onto city streets, a water intake well is installed behind the red line, and its waste branch is connected to the collector of the city drainage network.
With a closed drainage system, surface water is directed to the water intake wells of the drainage network and enters them through water intake grates.
Water intake wells on the territory of microdistricts are located in all low points that do not have free flow, on straight sections of driveways, depending on the longitudinal slope, with an interval of 50-100 m, at intersections of driveways on the side of the water inflow.
The slope of drainage branches is taken to be at least 0.5%, but optimal slope is 1-2%. The diameter of drainage branches is taken to be at least 200 mm.
The routes of drainage collectors in the microdistrict are laid mainly outside of passages in strips of green spaces at a distance of 1-1.5 m from the curb or roadway.
The depth of the drainage network collectors in the microdistrict is taken taking into account the depth of soil freezing.
Water intake wells have water intake grates, mainly rectangular shape. These wells are constructed from prefabricated concrete and reinforced concrete elements and only in their absence - from brick (Fig. 3.2).
Inspection wells are constructed according to standard projects from prefabricated elements.
When choosing a drainage system in a microdistrict, it should be borne in mind that in modern well-maintained microdistricts, the development of a network of drainage collectors is predetermined not only by the collection and disposal of surface water, but also by the use of the drainage network for other purposes, such as, for example, for receiving and discharging water from snow melters and when dumping snow into network collectors, as well as when discharging water into the network when washing roadways and driveways.
It is advisable to install an underground drainage network in the microdistrict when equipping buildings internal drains, as well as with a system for removing water from the roofs of buildings through external pipes with water discharge into an underground drainage network.
In both of these cases, the flow of water from drainpipes along sidewalks and areas adjacent to buildings is eliminated, and the appearance of buildings is also improved. Based on these considerations, it is considered advisable to develop an underground drainage network in microdistricts.
An underground drainage network in microdistricts is also justified if there are drainage-free places on the territory that do not have a free outlet for rain and melt water collected in them. Such cases are relatively rare, but are possible with complex, rugged terrain and cannot be eliminated by vertical planning due to the large volumes of excavation work.
It is almost always necessary to construct an underground drainage network when the microdistrict is deep and the watershed is 150-200 m away from the nearest adjacent street, as well as in all cases when throughput there are not enough trays on the driveways and the driveways can be flooded during relatively heavy rains; the use of ditches and ditches in residential areas is highly undesirable.
When planning vertically and creating surface water flow, the location of individual buildings relative to the natural topography is very important. For example, it is unacceptable to place buildings across the natural thalweg, thereby creating drainless areas.
Avoiding unnecessary and unjustified excavation work on bedding in places without drainage is possible only by draining water from such places using an underground collector of the drainage network, installing a water intake well at a low point. However, the direction of the longitudinal slope of such a reservoir will be opposite to the topography. This may lead to the need for excessive deepening of some sections of the district's drainage network.
Unsuccessful examples include the arrangement of buildings of various configurations in plan without taking into account the natural topography and water flow from the buildings (Fig. 3.3).
