If the wooden door is an entrance, remove the door from its hinges, unscrew the handles and, if any, the peephole. Make sausages (rollers) from foamed polyethylene, cover with the material that you decide to use in the upholstery of the door. It can be dermatin or leatherette. From a sheet of foam, cut out a sheet that is commensurate with your door. Cover it with your chosen material. With help liquid nails your sheet will easily grab the surface of the door. The insulated door is ready, it remains to return it to its original place, cut a place for a peephole (if you had one) and screw the handles back to their original place.
When insulating an interior wooden door (for example, in a country house), arm yourself with a planer or a hacksaw. It is necessary to achieve adjustment of the door leaf to the frame. Fill the remaining gaps with strips, such as felt. You can also use ordinary cotton wool, which will also serve as a good sound insulator.
If your door is a “long-liver”, then most likely the materials for filling the empty space were the most primitive. Previously, insulation was produced by any improvised means. The easiest way is to stick the seal on the frame. The sealing tape can be foam rubber, polyethylene foam, rubber. Width, thickness and color are also varied. Stick the tape on the self-adhesive backing and fix it. If the seal is without an adhesive base, secure it with liquid nails.
Isolon - minimum thickness This material will give a high result in terms of thermal insulation performance.
Foam rubber is several times cheaper, short-lived, begins to crumble over time, but for beginners it is just a godsend. If you know how to nail and use glue, then you can easily insulate the door. Foam rubber is easy to use and easily attached to the surface.
Ordinary cotton wool is the most economical option, but “the miser pays twice”, since cotton wool absorbs moisture and over time microorganisms will begin to multiply in your sealant, harming everyone living in this room. And yet, after some time, the cotton wool will begin to stray and settle down, forming bulges.
Silicone fillers - easy to use, resistant to external influences and show good results in practice. However, there is also a minus - poor sound insulation.
Pay special attention to the thickness of the seal. In everything you need to know the measure. Too dense insulation - will cause problems with closing the lock, or even the door itself, and too thin - will not give you the effect for which you started all this.
Doorways in private homes are often conductors of cold. Through them, up to a third of the heat produced is lost. The problem is especially noticeable in older buildings. Structures that have become unusable lose their tightness, and drafts begin to blow through the cracks in the door frame. Timely insulation of the front door will help save on heating and ensure comfortable living in any season.
The material for insulation is selected taking into account the individual preferences of the owner of the home, as well as its affordability. good option for thermal insulation of the front door will be:
Preservation of heat in the building largely depends on the condition of the door frame. Wall distortions that have arisen during the construction process can make it difficult to install the door, as well as lead to the appearance of cracks.
The door frame gradually wears out, and its material loses its shape and partially collapses, making it difficult to open the door and creating problems with ventilation. The solution to this problem will be proper insulation door frame.
To carry out work on the insulation of entrance doors, you need to carefully examine it around the perimeter and find all sources of heat loss.
If cracks are found, they are cleaned, blown out mounting foam and plastered with mortar.
Regardless of the design of the front door, the aging of the material leads to the appearance of gaps between the leaf and the box. Warm air leaves through these holes and seriously worsens the microclimate of the room.
The simplest way to insulate will be pasting the box from the inside with a special rubber seal.
To understand how to insulate front door, and buy right amount sealing tape, you need to make some calculations to avoid overspending resources.
By measuring the total perimeter of the door frame, you can find out the required length of the sealing material. Its width is determined by measuring the folds, that is, the recesses in the door frames, where the doors enter when closed.
The calculation of the thickness is carried out by measuring the gaps between the leaf and the door frame. To do this, you need to make a plasticine roller, wrap it in cellophane and clamp it in the gap between the box and the canvas. Insufficient thickness of the insulation will not allow it to completely cover the gaps, and excess will interfere with the normal closing of the door.
If the rubber tape has a self-adhesive layer, it is enough to degrease the surface of the door frame with alcohol for better adhesion, and then stick the seal around the perimeter.
Mortise-type products are pressed into special openings made in door frames at the stage of their manufacture.
Factory-made entrance doors consist of metal profiles and metal sheets welded to them. This type of construction cannot provide adequate protection from the cold.
To insulate metal entrance doors, you will need foam boards of the appropriate size, fiberboard sheets, wooden slats, sealant and screws for fastening.
Before the beginning finishing works parameters need to be measured. door leaf, which also include profile dimensions, and transfer them to a pre-prepared fiberboard sheet.
Drawing a template on a sheet required dimensions, it must be carefully cut out, making holes for the eye and door lock. The insulated door must be removed from the hinges, it is convenient to position and dismantle the protruding parts.
The frame made of wooden slats is fixed on the door leaf, limiting its internal space. The area inside the frame is filled with foam, which is fixed with a sealant or construction adhesive.
All voids that have arisen during the laying of insulation must be blown out with mounting foam. Also, a hole is made in the foam for the door peephole.
After fixing the insulation boards and blowing the voids with mounting foam, a prepared fiberboard sheet is installed on top and screwed on with screws. To better distribute the load on the surface of the door, the screws should be evenly spaced around the perimeter.
At the end of the insulation work, sheathing is performed with any selected material. The set of materials varies depending on the design of the web and frame. In private houses, prefabricated metal doors from two sheets are sometimes installed, which do not require the use of chipboard during the arrangement.
A good method of protecting a wooden door is to lay foam rubber on top of the canvas and then cover it with leatherette.
For finishing work, you will need the appropriate amount of insulation, glue to fix it, wooden slats for laying around the perimeter, as well as fabric for the final upholstery.
After removing the door leaf from the hinges, it must be placed on chairs or stools placed together, and all external protruding parts, including handles and door lock frames, should be dismantled.
It is also necessary to prepare rollers from a heater wrapped in upholstery. They will close the gaps between the frame and the door leaf. For a door that opens outwards, three rollers are required; they should not interfere with its opening. If the doors open inward, you need to make four rollers.
The insulation, laid out on the door leaf, is attached to the door with an indent from the edge of one centimeter. The material is additionally fixed with nails or staples.
After fastening, the foam rubber is covered with a leatherette sheet five centimeters larger than the bottom layer and carefully leveled. Leatherette trim is attached around the perimeter of the door, starting from the middle of each side, and gradually moving towards its edges. For quality finishes and eliminating the appearance of wrinkles, you will need the help of another person.
Rollers prepared in advance are stuffed onto the door frame around the perimeter and fixed with special furniture nails. This is necessary for better thermal insulation in private homes and an aesthetic appearance.
For decoration, you can apply a geometric pattern to the upholstery by driving decorative nails into the corners. Strips of leather, strings or thick fishing line can be stretched between the nails.
After carrying out all the work on the insulation of the entrance doors, handles and locks are hung, then the canvas can be installed in place.
A high-quality front door reliably protects an apartment or house from drafts, heat loss, extraneous odors and sounds. Modern new designs of entrance doors made of metal or wood are immediately insulated and reinforced during the manufacturing process. But what to do if there is no desire or means to replace the old front door, which does not have high sound and heat-saving properties?
It's simple - the door can be visually ennobled and insulated with high quality without large financial losses.
If the front door is old, then it is quite possible that the insulation located between the canvases is damaged. For example, mineral wool at high humidity starts to rot.
Gaps and gaps between the door leaf and the frame. This problem may be caused by the box being skewed due to incorrect installation, high humidity or frequent use of the door. Also, cracks appear due to deformation of the web, shift or damage to hinged fittings.
Gaps between the door frame and the opening. If the doorway is larger than the box, then all gaps are sealed with mounting foam. If the foam is not applied in a continuous layer, the design may have low heat-saving properties.
Restoration and insulation of the door are carried out in several stages.
This type of material is located around the entire perimeter of the door leaf and, when the door is closed, seals the structure with high quality.
Seals are divided into several types according to the location of the sealing ribs: single, double and triple. The more additional layers the material has, the better it protects against cold and noise.
Seals can be attached to the ends of the web with self-tapping screws or a self-adhesive base. The first type of fastening is better and more reliable, designed for high loads.
In order for the restored door to become outwardly aesthetic, it is recommended to upholster it with a material that does not allow moisture and air to pass through. For these purposes, eco-leather, leatherette, genuine leather are suitable.
In order for the upholstery to hold firmly to the door leaf, special nails. You can also complement the design of the door with a special wire that is attached between the nails and creates a pattern on front surface canvases.
Wooden lining, MDF board (8 mm) with one-sided lamination. These materials can be used for interior decoration doors.
Before starting work, it is required to determine exactly what materials will be used to restore the door. If the inner side of the door leaf is made of MDF, then you need to purchase or order a sheet of material of the right size in advance.
If the door leaf has settled under its own weight, then it is advisable to twist the hinges with new self-tapping screws or completely replace the hinged fittings.
It is advisable to carefully check the perimeter between the box and the wall opening for sealing, if necessary, remove the old foam and foam the cracks in a new way.
If the door is severely deformed due to moisture, then it is possible to process the ends with a planer so that when opening and closing the canvas freely enters the door frame.
During restoration, you can replace the door lock, peephole, chain,
Determine the size of the gap between the box and the canvas. If the gap around the entire perimeter is more than a few millimeters, then the groove for the seal does not need to be cut.
Cut the sealant into the desired size fragments. If the tape is self-adhesive, then you need to glue it around the entire perimeter of the door frame, closer to the outside of the door leaf.
If the seal is made of silicone, then you need to attach it to the ends with a stapler. This fastening is much stronger and more durable than sealing with self-adhesive material.
If the gaps between the canvas and the box are not too large, but a draft is felt, you can use a grinder to cut a groove 1-2 mm deep and 3-4 mm wide. A seal is attached to this groove; a two-layer or three-layer material can be used.
These devices are designed to seal the gaps between the door and the jambs.
Step 1. Leatherette is cut into 4 strips, 10 cm wide. The length of the strips is equal to the width and height of the door leaf + a margin of 5 cm on each side.
Step 2 A strip of leatherette is applied to the edge of the door with the wrong side. Every 10-15 cm, the material is attached to the canvas with a stapler or upholstery nails.
Step 3 Strips are attached around the entire perimeter of the door. Near the hinges, the material must be cut in a special way: the roller should not interfere with the closing and opening of the door. To prevent the roller from bulging, you can cut off excess material around the edges. Finishing installation the roller is carried out after the insulation of the door leaf.
Foamed polyethylene roller, which must be inserted around the entire perimeter of the door into a strip of leatherette
You can upholster the door with leatherette both from the inside and from outer side. Also, the inner fabric can be laminated MDF board. The color of the material can be chosen as desired. The canvas is fastened with self-tapping screws around the perimeter. It is also important to pre-cut holes for the handle, peephole or internal lock, if any, on the door.
Most often, restoration is carried out using eco-leather or leatherette upholstery. It is not difficult, if desired, this process can be done independently.
Step 1. Mounting on the insulation sheet. It is important that the size of the insulation on all sides be 10 cm larger than the dimensions of the door leaf. Most often, ordinary foam rubber is used for these purposes, having a thickness of 2-3 cm. With the help of a stapler, foam rubber is aimed at the door leaf at small intervals.
Step 2 Excess material is trimmed around the perimeter of the door. The stock is needed so that there are no problems with fixing the insulation: it is easier to cut off the extra edges than to accurately shoot a sheet of material cut to size.
Step 3 Additionally, it is recommended to attach a batting over the foam rubber. This material will improve the heat and sound insulation of the door structure.
Step 4 Leatherette is cut with a margin: 4 cm on each side. It is necessary to nail the material to the canvas with insulation from the middle. This fastening method minimizes skew and wrinkling of the material.
Step 6 Fastening leatherette along the edges of the canvas. It is necessary to pull the fabric strongly to avoid the appearance of bumps.
Step 7 Leatherette needs to be carefully fixed around the entire perimeter of the door. The gap between the location of the nails is 5-6 cm. It is advisable to drive in the nails at the same level and at an equal distance.
Step 8 Final fastening of the roller. The protruding ends of the fabric are folded into a tube and nailed. It is desirable that the roller be the same size on all sides of the door. It will improve her appearance.
Step 9 Handle attachment. In the place where the fittings are located, you need to make a hole in the leatherette, and then attach the handle using self-tapping screws.
Step 10 Ennobling the appearance of the door. To prevent the canvas from looking too simple, you can decorate it with nails, wire or fishing line. To do this, markings are applied to leatherette: mesh, squares or others. geometric figures. Nails are driven into the corners of the figures, serving as fasteners for wire or fishing line. The wire is stretched between the nails, visually dividing the canvas into fragments. It is important to observe the geometry of the drawing.
There are several ways to insulate a metal structure: by installing an internal or external insulation.
Doors in which metal sheets are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws are best insulated with foam, isofix, polystyrene foam. You can also purchase special acoustic panels that will reduce the penetration of noise from outside.
Stage 1. At internal insulation the lining of the canvas located inside the apartment is removed. Opening the outer panel is impractical and dangerous; the design may lose its former strength and reliability.
Stage 2. After the casing is removed, you need to unscrew the screws holding the metal sheet. The old insulation located between the stiffeners must be removed. new material it is necessary to cut into fragments required in size and place between the partitions of the frame.
Stage 3. The metal sheet is attached to the old place. It is advisable to use new screws. The door upholstery can be restored by replacing it with a new one or using old stuff. It all depends on the condition and type of canvas.
With this method, the insulation is attached on top of the metal sheet, due to which the thickness of the door increases markedly.
Stage 1. Installation of a frame made of wooden bars along the perimeter of the door with inside. Beams 15-20 mm thick are screwed to metal sheet using self-tapping screws. Also, with the help of beams, internal stiffeners are formed, between which a heater is attached.
Stage 2. Installation of insulation sheets. The material is cut into pieces so that they fit exactly into the recesses between the stiffeners. The thickness of the insulation should not be greater than the thickness of the beams.
Stage 3. Finishing doors. A canvas is cut out of eco-leather or leatherette, fastened on nails with wide caps to the bars. The edges of the canvas should go to the ends of the beams so that the material completely covers the entire structure.
Also, instead of fabric, you can use a cut-to-size laminated MDF sheet.
Spend self-insulation doors is not difficult, the main thing is to follow all stages of restoration work.
The greatest heat loss in the cold season occurs through doors and windows. Therefore, to preserve heat, as well as to save money, it is important to insulate doors. Doing it yourself is not at all difficult.
All input street doors, sold on the market, are initially equipped with a layer of insulation during production. But if you have an old wooden door installed at your entrance, or the insulation is worn out and does not perform its functions, then it makes sense to think about warming yourself.
There are several options for insulating a wooden door:
The seal is relevant in the case when the canvas does not fit tightly to the box and blows from the slots cold air, although the door itself holds heat well.
Rollers are used together with upholstery or as independent way keeping warm.
Upholster the street side of the door country house or a city apartment different materials. As a heater can act:
Foam rubber is practical, inexpensive and easy to work with. But its disadvantages are the absorption of moisture and the tendency to crumble after some time after the start of use.
Isolon is more expensive, but superior to foam rubber in quality. It is characterized by excellent heat-insulating characteristics.
Mineral wool does not rot, but tends to clump under the upholstery and lose volume, which negates the visual appeal of the structure.
Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene are light and well-preserving materials. But the method of warming them differs from the above.
Gluing the door in a private house or city apartment around the perimeter with a special insulation will increase the pressure and block the access of cold air into the room. He is rubber band on an adhesive basis, which is glued at the point of contact of the canvas with the box (folds).
Before starting work, you need to determine how much material will be needed. To do this, measure the width and height of the door leaf and calculate the perimeter. In addition, when calculating the amount of material, the thickness of the slots and the width of the folds are taken into account.
Gluing the tape with your own hands is very simple. To do this, the paper is gradually peeled off from the sticky side of the seal and pressed against the folds of the door frame.
Previously, this method of insulation was implemented using leatherette, folded several times and nailed to a wooden box with small carnations.
The only disadvantage of this method of preserving heat is short term services. More than one season, the tape on the door of a country house will not last.
Do-it-yourself insulation with rollers is used together with the insulation of the entire door leaf and as an independent measure to preserve heat. The second option is relevant when there is no possibility or desire to remove the door from its hinges.
The rollers are stuffed around the perimeter of the door leaf from the inside so that the doors retain heat better and look presentable. They are made of insulation, which is wrapped in decorative material which is used for upholstery. The rollers are nailed into place with furniture nails.
In order to insulate the door with your own hands with rollers correctly, keep in mind that from the side of the hinges they must be nailed exactly along the edge. From below, the rollers should be adjacent to the threshold, and from above and from the side of the lock, they should protrude by 4-5 mm. It is not worth nailing the roller to the threshold, as it will quickly become unusable.
For upholstery, in addition to the insulation itself, you will also need the material that will be used. decorative trim. This may be leather, its substitutes or other suitable materials. In order to determine how much insulation is needed, you need to measure the door leaf. To determine the values \u200b\u200bof the width and height of the door, if the street side is sheathed, 1 cm recede from the end. For finishing from the inside, measurements are taken in closed position sash, retreating 1 cm from the box. For the best effect, experts recommend insulating the canvas on both sides.
Before proceeding with the insulation with your own hands, you need to prepare the door leaf. For insulation, it is necessary to remove it from the hinges, dismantle all the fittings: a handle, a lock, a peephole. The old coating is removed, treated with an antiseptic mixture and degreased. The canvas is laid on a horizontal surface and the insulation is fastened. Depending on the material chosen, glue, small nails or metal staples are used. Upholstery is attached on top of the insulation, which should be slightly larger in size.
Leatherette is fastened with a stapler and staples along the edge of the door leaf. For this, it was left free from insulation 1 cm around the perimeter. In order for the decorative material to lie evenly and without folds, it is worth bringing an assistant to work.
Rollers nailed around the perimeter after insulation will improve the appearance and help retain heat. Their manufacture and fastening with their own hands is described above. You can decorate the door of a country house or a city apartment if you put a chalk drawing on the upholstery on the street side and drive in furniture nails. Between them you can stretch a strip of leather or fishing line.
After finishing work, the fittings are returned to their place, and the structure is hung on the hinges.
Styrofoam insulation of a door in a private house is possible in two ways. Finishing the street side, you can cut it so that the dimensions fully correspond to the size of the canvas, sheathe it with leatherette and stick it on liquid nails. Insulating the canvas from the inside, the foam is cut to the size of the box clearance.
The second method is to nail with your own hands around the perimeter of the box wooden lath. Styrofoam is inserted into the resulting space, and the structure is sheathed with clapboard or other suitable material. The thickness of the rail should be the same as that of the foam. But this version of insulation has one drawback. The weight of the structure will increase and additional hinges may be required.
Knowing how to insulate the front wooden door, you can easily do this work yourself, thereby keeping the heat in the house.
Often, owners of apartments and private houses have a question, how to insulate an iron front door? The fact is that even though a metal door is reliable protection from uninvited guests, the material from which it is made is an excellent heat conductor. This, in turn, leads to the fact that the structure freezes in the cold season, frost forms on its inside. Let's see if it is possible to insulate an iron door with your own hands, and what is needed for this.
Process quality insulation cannot be started without a properly selected insulation. Thankfully, on modern market you can easily find what you need. It should be said right away that you can use both hard and soft insulation, the choice depends solely on you.
According to consumer reviews, one of the most popular heaters is mineral wool. There are several reasons for this: it is inexpensive, easy to use due to its soft structure, absorbs noise well and has memory, that is, it is able to recover in size after compression. Cotton wool copes well with temperature changes, protecting the house from the cold. The disadvantages include the fact that the material is soft and may settle over time. However, this drawback is easily leveled by creating stiffeners in the door structure, which do not allow the mineral wool to "slide" over a long period.
One of the most popular heaters is mineral wool.
A big problem for mineral wool is exposure to moisture, or rather condensate, which forms when the dew point shifts inside the door leaf. Qualitatively insulate the iron door from the inside will help stone wool. It is not affected by moisture, so it can be used even for thermal insulation of the entrance doors of private houses. Otherwise, mineral wool will fit only for apartment doors with a heated vestibule (corridor).
Styrofoam is another popular way to keep the heat in the room. The material has a very low weight, which eliminates the weighting of the door structure. It is durable and wear resistant. Polystyrene does not need additional waterproofing, since it is not hygroscopic. In addition, it perfectly copes with the suppression of noise from the outside and keeps heat well. Choosing among various options, it is worth giving preference to expanded polystyrene, for example, Penoplex. It is much denser than ordinary foam, therefore, with a smaller thickness (and this is very important!) It has the same properties as foam bigger size. In addition, it is not recommended to use a simple foam, since it is able to release harmful substances when heated.
Corrugated cardboard is a heater for almost all doors supplied from China. What can be said about this heater? The material has poor thermal insulation properties, but is very cheap, which makes doors with such insulation accessible to the majority of the population.
Quite expensive, but very effective material used in insulation metal door, is a foamed polyurethane. It is applied with special tool. Due to its "liquid" structure at the stage of application, it makes it possible to fill all the cavities without exception, forming a single sheet. The disadvantage of this material is its price, so it has not yet found sufficient distribution among our compatriots.
Also not too cheap heat-insulating material serves as an isolon. But the big advantage is its minimum thickness. The material is sold in rolls, so you can easily purchase exactly the length that you need. Thanks to the adhesive side, it is simply attached to the canvas, and this can be done without even disassembling the entire door structure, though in this case you will have to make overlays on top to hide the insulation. To do this, you can use a sheet of plywood or other material.
It is also worth noting that materials such as, for example, foam rubber, chipboard and others can be used in the insulation of entrance doors. But, frankly, the quality of their thermal insulation is almost minimal, in addition, they are highly susceptible to moisture, due to which the weight also increases. iron doors. This negatively affects their service life.
At first glance, it may seem that the process itself is excessively laborious and requires special knowledge. In fact, even an inexperienced master can cope with the work. Having decided on the insulation material, it is necessary to remove locks, handles and a peephole from the door leaf. After that, you need to dismantle the door leaf and place it on a flat horizontal surface. Of course, you can work without removing the door, but this is extremely inconvenient and not always rational.
Even an inexperienced master can cope with the insulation of a split door
First you need to remove the trim from the inside of the door. Depending on the model, this may be an armored sheet, or it may be a simple overlay made of plywood or other material. Most often, the sheathing is attached to the door with self-tapping screws or riveting. If inside the door has old insulation, then it must be removed by thoroughly cleaning the entire structure. If in inner space there are stiffeners, then holes must be drilled in them at intervals of 40–45 cm and through them the cavities must be filled with mounting foam for thermal insulation. The diameter of the holes must match the diameter of the cylinder tube.
At the next stage, if mineral wool or other soft insulation is chosen as thermal insulation, a hydro-barrier is equipped with polyethylene over the entire surface. For expanded polystyrene, this is not necessary, since it already has good waterproofing qualities. Then the distance between the stiffeners is measured and the thermal insulation is cut with a small allowance. This is done in order to minimize the possibility of voids between the door structure and the heat-insulating material.
You can work without removing the door, but this is extremely inconvenient and not always rational
The next step is to lay the insulation in the cavity. For better installation it is recommended to mount on "liquid nails" or mounting foam. All places of contact must be additionally filled with mounting foam, and if necessary, lay a layer of waterproofing on top. When all these procedures are completed, you can proceed to attach the lining. If the old material has become unusable, then it needs to be replaced with a new one, but which one is up to you. After that, you can install the door peephole, insert the lock and hang the door on the hinges.
If you have a question about how to insulate an iron Chinese front door or any other that is non-separable, then in this case the technique will be somewhat different from the above. To begin with, the canvas is removed and the locks, handles and peephole are removed from it. After that, the door is laid horizontally and the frame and stiffeners are installed on the inside and outside of the leaf. For this you need to take wooden block section 20 * 20 mm. Moreover, the thickness can be more - it all depends on the thickness of the insulation itself. If it is possible to weld metal carcass, you can also use it this way.
To install the frame and stiffeners, you need to take a wooden block with a section of 20 * 20 mm
The frame is attached to the surface with self-tapping screws, and all joints with the canvas are coated with mounting foam to prevent air and moisture from entering. When installing metal structure you can use welding machine. All steps for installing insulation will be similar to those described above. From above, the structure is covered with a sheet of fiberboard, hardboard or other material that is securely attached to the door leaf. On the final stage it is necessary to make holes for the peephole and the door lock and install the door in place. If desired, the surface of the door leaf can be additionally finished with leather, leatherette, forged or plastic lining, etc.
Advice! When attaching the frame or sheathing, use clamps. They will help to securely fix the structure, excluding its displacement.
Insulation of metal doors is not only the thermal insulation of the leaf itself. To effectively retain heat, you need to pay attention to some important points.
For a better fit of the door leaf to the steel frame, rubber seals must be used.
For a better fit of the door leaf to the steel frame, it is necessary to use rubber seals, which will help improve the quality of the thermal insulation of the doors. They are sold by the required footage, so before installation, you need to measure the perimeter of the door. The seal has an adhesive edge, with which it is attached to the canvas. To do this, the iron surface is degreased and only after that the rubber band is glued. It is noteworthy that with a wide door frame you can attach the seal in several layers.
Please note that the tape itself comes in various thicknesses and types. Depending on the size of the gap, you can choose the desired option. For large gaps, it is recommended to use a seal in the form of the Latin letters O and D. For gaps ranging in size from 3 to 5 mm, tapes resembling the letters V or P are suitable. And you can get rid of very small gaps using a C- or K-shaped seal.
The thermal insulation of the door frame gives a great effect in warming. Since its dismantling, insulation and subsequent installation is too complicated a process, you can use the above method, which is used to insulate stiffeners. To do this, you only need a drill for metal and mounting foam.
It is important to take into account that when a one-piece door is insulated, its thickness increases, therefore, it should be possible to manufacture an elongated key so that the door can be opened without problems. The same applies to the snap-on square on the handle.
In particularly harsh climatic conditions there is a feasibility of installing doorway heating cable, which is used for arranging a warm floor. To do this, plaster is knocked off the slopes, tile adhesive is placed in the formed cavities, inside which the cable is mounted. In addition, the heating cable is laid on the floor in front of the door. Such a system eliminates the formation of cold bridges, which, in turn, reduces the likelihood of condensation on the surface of the door leaf, and, therefore, icing.
Now you have an idea how to insulate a metal door and you can do all the work yourself. High-quality thermal insulation will help not only keep the heat in your home, but also save the door from premature failure, rust and ice formation. Do-it-yourself work will help you save money and fill your home with warmth and silence.
