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» Insulate the balcony with your own hands. Insulating a loggia with your own hands: step-by-step photo instructions with recommendations. Step-by-step instructions for insulating a balcony

Insulate the balcony with your own hands. Insulating a loggia with your own hands: step-by-step photo instructions with recommendations. Step-by-step instructions for insulating a balcony

Until recently, the balconies of city apartments served as a kind of storage room - people stored preserved food and various things there. What’s more, all sorts of unnecessary rubbish was taken out onto the balconies, which was a pity to throw away. However, today these premises are increasingly used as additional living space. And to implement such an idea, you need to take care of insulating the balcony.

If you insulate your balcony, you will be able to not only expand the living space of your apartment relatively cheaply, but also significantly reduce heat loss from your home. The fact is that it is through the balconies that most of the heat escapes. But in order for everything to be done efficiently, you need to know where to start. With a well-designed scheme, turn cold balcony albeit in a small, but almost complete room, it will be much easier.

So first sketch rough plan works - it will include:


Important information! The balcony can be insulated both from the inside and outside. But since you will be doing the work on your own, that is, without the help of specialists, it is better to resort to internal insulation.

Stage No. 1. Choosing insulation

On modern construction market There are a lot of thermal insulation materials, but for a balcony they are more suitable:


As for foam plastic and EPS, the laying of these materials is carried out using almost the same technology (the only exception is the form of adhesion - with EPS it is better due to the use of grooves).

It is better not to use mineral wool for a balcony - the installation procedure will be more labor-intensive, and the condensation that inevitably forms on the balcony is undesirable for this material. Expanded clay, for obvious reasons, can only be used for floor insulation (the insulation technology will be described in detail below).

And if we add to all of the above the fact that the balcony should in no case be overloaded, then it becomes obvious: the most suitable option- this is foam plastic 4-5 cm thick, which costs less than polystyrene foam or mineral wool.

Stage No. 2. We carry out glazing

If your balcony is already glazed, you can skip this step. The glazing procedure itself largely depends on the parapet installed on the balcony. If we are talking about iron sheathing, then you must build it up using foam blocks or ceramic brick. It is important that the resulting wall thickness exceeds 10 cm. And if you have a reinforced concrete parapet, you can immediately begin installing windows.

Today, many (especially fans of environmentally friendly building materials) prefer double-glazed windows with wooden frames. It is worth remembering that such structures need to be processed antiseptic and paint regularly. You can learn about installing double-glazed windows with wooden frames from the video below.

Video - How to install a wooden window with double glazing

However, the majority of consumers still buy PVC windows. When purchasing, choose a special one plastic profile, characterized by increased rigidity and strength properties. In addition, the profile must have good thermal insulation properties.

Plastic windows should also have:

  • 5-chamber profile;
  • 2-chamber (if you live in middle lane) or 3-chamber (if in a more severe climate) double-glazed window;
  • reinforced reinforcement.

After installing the PVC structure ordered according to the dimensions of the balcony (the work should be carried out by specialists), you can proceed directly to insulation.

Stage No. 3. We insulate the floor

Let's look at how to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands using polystyrene foam (although the technology described below is also suitable for polystyrene foam).

Table. Insulating the floor on the balcony

Steps, no.Short descriptionIllustration
Step #1First, prepare the working surfaces - seal with foam all the cracks found in the concrete, as well as at the joints between the slabs and the wall.

Step #2Mark the floor for the subsequent construction of the sheathing. In this case, it is important that the pitch of the sheathing exceeds the width of the insulation sheets by approximately 10 mm.

Step #3Lay the slats according to the previously made markings (the approximate size of the bars is 4x4 cm, but their width must correspond to the thickness of the insulating material). The first and last slats should be 50-100 mm away from the walls. Connect the slats using self-tapping screws.

Step #4Place sheets of foam plastic between the lathing slats, gluing them to the floor liquid nails or special glue. Blow out any resulting voids with polyurethane foam.

Step #5Lay a vapor barrier layer on top of the insulation. Lay a vapor barrier layer on top of the insulation (necessary to increase thermal insulation and prevent the formation of condensation). If you use regular PET film, then under no circumstances place it on the “cold” side of the insulator. If you are laying foil insulation, then do it with foil to the foam.

Step #6Fix sheets of plywood or chipboard on top, and the thickness of the floor covering should be at least 20 mm. Attach the sheets to the slats using self-tapping screws.

Step #7All that remains is to lay the finishing coating, which can be carpet or linoleum.

Important information! There is another way to insulate the floor on a balcony with polystyrene foam: sheets of foam plastic are attached to a leveled and cleaned surface, and poured on top thin screed from a previously prepared dry mixture solution. Can be used here as a finishing coating ceramic tile.

Alternative option. We use expanded clay

As noted earlier, the floor on the balcony can also be insulated using expanded clay. This material is also inexpensive, and its installation is not difficult. Let's get acquainted with the algorithm of actions.

Step #1. First, lay a waterproofing film on the floor with an extension of 10 cm to the walls.

Step #2. Place the beacons around the perimeter in increments of approximately 25 cm, being careful not to lean them too far against the walls.

Step #3. Fill the floor with a 15 cm thick layer of expanded clay and distribute the material evenly over the surface.

Step #4. Moisten the expanded clay with cement laitance (this is an aqueous solution of cement).

Step #5. Fill the expanded clay with a layer of concrete or self-leveling mixture. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the structure of the insulator.

Step #6. Wait for the screed to dry completely. After this, you can begin laying the topcoat.

Stage No. 4. We insulate the walls

The technology here is almost the same as for floor insulation. Follow these steps:

Step #1. Mark the future location of the slats on the walls (as well as for the floor).

Step #2. Attach the slats in accordance with these markings.

Step #3. Apply polyurethane foam to the surface using wave-like movements. At the same stage, you should drill holes for the dowels.

Step #4. Attach the foam sheets using plastic mushroom dowels.

Step #5. Blow out all the resulting cracks with polyurethane foam, and then seal with mounting tape.

Step #6. Lay a waterproofing layer on top - for example, penofol, which will also serve as thermal insulation.

Step #7. Seal the seams at the joints with foil tape.

Step #8. Mount the counter-lattice on top of the foam foam and install the finishing material.

Stage No. 5. We insulate the ceiling

This procedure is also performed using a similar technology, but some differences still occur.

  1. First, make a marking along which the hangers for attaching the guides will be installed.
  2. Install the hangers themselves necessary to fix the guides (for the latter, use a galvanized profile or timber).

  3. In appropriate places, cut small holes in the insulator (foam or EPS) for hangers.

  4. Next, secure the insulation boards using the same mounting foam.

If the insulation weighs too much, you can use dowels for fastening. Blow out the cracks with foam. Otherwise there are no significant differences.

Finishing features

In most cases, balconies are lined from the inside with clapboard or profile, but plasterboard is also used, followed by wallpapering. PVC panels are also used for cladding. Concerning exterior finishing, then it is better to entrust it to professionals, especially if your apartment is located higher than on the ground floor.

Important information! It is forbidden to take there central heating, so if additional heating is required, you can lay a film “warm floor” under the linoleum.

You can also install an outlet on the balcony to which you can connect electric heater. The described room is small, so heating will take a minimum of time. We also note that the double-glazed window weighs quite a lot, so the remaining materials (including the insulator itself) must be of minimal weight. By the way, this is another reason why it is better to give preference to EPS or foam boards.

Video - Instructions for insulating a balcony

Now you know about the strengths and weaknesses of materials suitable for insulating a balcony, as well as the technologies for laying polystyrene foam and expanded clay. Therefore, it's time to get to work! Moreover, there is nothing complicated here if you are armed with step-by-step instructions and all necessary materials. If you do everything correctly, you will turn the balcony into a full-fledged living room with all the ensuing advantages.

Most apartment owners use the balcony as a place to store rarely used items. If you want to get additional living space and turn it into a place to relax, a flower garden or an office, you can do this without involving specialists. We will describe in detail how to reliably insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands.

Which thermal insulator is better to use?

Read also: How to insulate a private house with your own hands: roof, walls and foundation, description of thermal insulation materials offered on the market (Photo & Video) + Reviews

To decorate the balcony, you can use both roll and tile materials that provide reliable thermal insulation:

  • Styrofoam: inexpensive tile material, which has fairly high thermal insulation properties, has two significant drawbacks; the first is the large thickness of the sheets, when using it already small area the balcony will be significantly reduced; the second disadvantage is the high fire hazard; to ignite it, a lighted cigarette accidentally thrown from the top floor is enough; therefore, for balcony cladding, purchase G2 class material that does not support self-combustion
  • penoplex(extruded polystyrene foam): the composition of this material is similar to polystyrene foam, but due to a special production method with equal thermal insulation properties, it has a smaller thickness and greater mechanical strength; however, the cost of penoplex is higher; since the material has a low water absorption coefficient, the balcony will need to be regularly ventilated to avoid condensation; We’ll tell you below how to insulate a balcony with penoplex from the inside.
  • "Penofol": foamed polyethylene, protected on both sides with aluminum foil, which simultaneously serves as wind and moisture protection; a significant plus - minimum thickness, for insulation it is enough to use a material a few millimeters thick; “Izolon”, “Penolon”, “Teplofol”, “Energofol” have similar composition and properties; disadvantage - high price
  • mineral wool(glass, slag or basalt wool): the undoubted advantage of all these materials is their high thermal insulation properties; some experts believe that the increased moisture permeability of the material in the case of insulating a balcony is only a plus - by absorbing excess moisture well, the material will protect the room from the accumulation of condensation on windows and walls; however, over time, mold can form in mineral wool, so it must be reliably protected from moisture penetration on both sides using hydro- and vapor barrier

It is undesirable to use thermal insulation materials that have a significant mass (for example, brick) for insulating balconies.

After all, the load-bearing capacity of a balcony slab is limited. If there is excessive load, such a structure simply may not withstand the additional weight.

The use of expanded clay for floor screed is also not recommended. Its significant disadvantage is its ability to absorb moisture. As a result, its mass increases significantly.

Read also: Required materials

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Using penoplex

  • To finish the balcony you will need the following materials: gas silicate blocks
  • 80-100 mm wide for the construction of a parapet glue
  • cement-based for their installation
  • slab or roll insulation wooden slats
  • for the manufacture of lathing and installation of roll insulation; their thickness is selected so that it is equal to the width of the heat insulator self-tapping screws
  • for installation of lathing with a diameter of 3.5-4.8 mm using sheet material
  • (penoplex or foam plastic) as insulation, special glue for attaching them polyethylene film
  • or membrane material to create hydro- and vapor barrier polyurethane foam , mastic (for example, “Germabutyl”, “Germaflex” on a rubber basis) or silicone sealant

for sealing joints and cracks

Read also: Where to begin? Inspection and repair of balcony slabs

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The condition of balcony slabs is not always satisfactory - over time they may partially collapse. Therefore, before you start insulating the balcony, you should check how strong and reliable its base is.

Minor and medium repairs can be carried out independently. If significant cracks appear, or even more so, exposed reinforcement, the collapse of fragments of the slab, or its separation from the wall, you should call specialists. should only be done by qualified installers from the management company. If the reinforcement is severely corroded, it may be necessary to reinforce it with steel beams. In case of severe destruction balcony slab can be completely cut off.

To restore damaged areas of concrete:

  1. Everything unnecessary is removed from the balcony, and all debris, as well as the remains of loose concrete, are completely removed
  2. If the reinforcement is exposed, it is cleaned of rust. Reinforcing mesh is laid on top. To prevent it from rusting over time, it must be completely buried in concrete. To do this, you need to leave a gap between it and the plate.
  3. Formwork is placed around the perimeter of the balcony slab
  4. After pouring the concrete mortar, the screed is ironed - sprinkled with dry cement, then rubbed into the undried mortar
  5. To protect against moisture from below, the balcony slab is primed and then plastered. Galvanized steel ebb is mounted on the sides

Read also: [Instructions] Do-it-yourself laminate on a wooden floor: a complete description of the process. Laying schemes, what materials should be used (Photo & Video) + Reviews

Pouring floor screed on the balcony

After reconstruction of the slab, it is advisable to waterproof it. For these purposes, roll materials or bitumen are used. To modern waterproofing materials Penetrating impregnation is classified as “Penotron” type. It is better to apply it in 2 layers.

The balcony railing may also require repairs. New structural elements in the form of profile pipes are attached to anchors or by welding.

Choice of glazing methods

Read also: What to do if plastic windows in a house or apartment sweat? Causes of condensation. Ways to solve this problem (Photo & Video) + Reviews

If your balcony has conventional single-chamber double-glazed windows, they should be replaced. Otherwise, you will waste a significant part of the energy resources spent on heating the room. A warm balcony requires 2- or 3-chamber double-glazed windows. In the Far North they can have 5 chambers.

Glazing a balcony is more complicated than conventional installation of double-glazed windows. In this case, installation of additional components is required. Therefore, be sure to invite proven, highly qualified professionals.

It is not advisable to use wooden double-glazed windows for glazing. Due to the accumulated condensation, they will begin to rot over time. Plus, the weight of such structures saturated with water will be significant. If for some reason you decide to stop at wooden products, do not forget to regularly treat them with an antiseptic and paint them.

The use of latest technologies– glazing using I- or K-glass.

The first option - I-glass with a multilayer coating, which includes a small percentage of silver - is capable of reflecting up to 90% of the outgoing heat. Since such surfaces can be easily scratched, they are installed with a coating inside the room.

Read also: Oxide of non-ferrous metals is applied to K-glass, due to which heat is reflected from the batteries into the room. This type of coating is less susceptible to damage. Although the prices for both glass options are the same, the degree of heat reflection in K-glass is less and is 30%.

Plastic windows in a wooden house: description of the main characteristics, how to install it yourself, photo and video instructions A low-quality profile may turn yellow over time

, so pay special attention to its quality certificates. Choose profile systems from trusted manufacturers. If you want your double-glazed windows to last longer, don’t skimp on fittings either. To more economical way Windows are sealed with ordinary polyurethane foam.

But it will be better if all the cracks are sealed with a sealant that has water-repellent properties. There is no point in refusing to install flashings - they not only look decorative, but also protect the room from drafts. You can order at balcony windows blinds or covering with a special opaque film

. It will protect the premises from prying eyes.

Read also: Warming the balcony in stages

Foundation: description of the device, types, complete step-by-step instructions for making your own bookmarks (Photo & Video) + Reviews It is necessary to cover not only the walls with thermal insulation, but also the floor and ceiling, otherwise the insulation will simply lose its meaning. After all reinforced concrete slabs

in the cold season they freeze very much.

Read also: Preparatory work

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Before starting work, carefully inspect the balcony for cracks. If you find them, carefully fill them with sealant or foam. Their excess must be cut off. After all, when installing the sheathing, they will interfere with its alignment.

Read also: Blind area around the house: types, structure, schematic drawings, instructions on how to do it yourself correctly (30 Photos & Videos) + Reviews

Both foam and aerated concrete can reliably store heat, which is why they are often used to insulate balconies or loggias.

However, since aerated concrete is capable of absorbing water, it is better to focus on foam blocks. Their air cells are completely closed from moisture penetration.

  1. When using aerated concrete, additional finishing will be required to protect it from rain and snow.
  2. If there are significant differences in height or potholes on the concrete slab, it is leveled with cement mortar
  3. Work on laying foam blocks begins a week after the concrete has gained sufficient strength. If free space allows, metal fencing
  4. It's better not to delete it. You can gain 15-20 cm of usable area by strengthening the masonry with reinforcement with thick metal rods
  5. With the help of reinforcement, the parapet must also be additionally attached to the walls of the house. It is walled up between rows of foam blocks It is better to make masonry not in the usual way concrete mortar
  6. , but with a special glue designed for cellular blocks. It will help reduce the thickness of the seam to 3 mm, protect against loss of mortar and the appearance of cold bridges. Its cost is fully compensated by reducing the thickness of the seams
  7. To lay out the first row, the glue must be diluted a little thicker - so that the spatula installed in it does not fall on its side
  8. The place for masonry is marked so that the center of the bricks falls on the mounting points of the window frame, that is, the distance from it to the edge of the balcony slab is 5 cm
  9. To save space at the junction with the parapet, the blocks are filed

The wall must be positioned strictly vertically. Therefore, the location of each row must be verified with a building level When laying window frames

For foam blocks, double-glazed windows must be additionally secured to the walls of the building using a channel. Otherwise, under strong wind loads, the double-glazed windows may fall down.

Read also: Insulation of walls and ceilings

[Instructions] How to make beautiful and unusual shelves on the wall with your own hands: for flowers, books, TV, for the kitchen or garage (100+ Photo Ideas & Video) + Reviews

How to properly insulate a regular or brick balcony?

  1. It is better to start installing insulation from the top, from the ceiling: The first to be laid waterproofing film
  2. When laying roll insulation, preliminary installation of wooden sheathing will be required. Sheet insulation can be attached directly to the glue
  3. Since the main load will fall on the sheathing (it must withstand the weight of the insulation, as well as facing material), wooden blocks should be fixed to the ceiling with self-tapping screws of sufficient length
  4. To prevent the sheathing slats from deforming during temperature changes, leave a gap of 5-10 mm between them and the walls. It is mounted to the ceiling using self-tapping screws. To do this, holes are pre-prepared in it.
  5. Plates or roll material should fit tightly, without gaps. The sheathing pitch should be slightly larger (10 millimeters) than the size of the insulation sheets. Otherwise you will not be able to lay the material evenly
  6. A more reliable option is to combine penoplex with penofol with air gap 2 cm between them
  7. All gaps between the insulation boards are filled with foam
  8. The next layer is a vapor barrier made of polyethylene film or special membrane materials. There is no need to use it only if foil materials are used for insulation
  9. Next, a second layer of 10 mm sheathing is laid, onto which the finishing material will be attached. Such a gap will serve additional protection from condensation accumulation
  10. Even moisture resistant drywall on the balcony it may warp over time. Therefore, use gypsum boards for sheathing. Moreover, they cost no more than drywall. You can also sheathe the inside of the balcony with plywood or clapboard
  11. Installing insulation on walls is not much different from installing insulation on the ceiling

Floor insulation

Read also:

Since insulation under the screed significantly increases the weight of the structure, the most common method of floor insulation is insulation along joists.

So, detailed step-by-step instructions:

  1. After installing the waterproofing layer to concrete floor fastened wooden beam(its cross-sectional size is 50x50 mm). The width of the bars is selected depending on the thickness of the insulation
  2. The wood is pre-treated with a primer with an antiseptic or coated with drying oil
  3. The logs are placed across the balcony so that a distance of 50-70 mm remains from the walls. Such a technological gap will not allow the bars to warp during temperature changes and changes in linear dimensions
  4. To ensure normal water drainage, the balcony slab is always made at a slight slope . Therefore, the logs must first be leveled. To do this, thin wooden blocks or pieces of plywood are placed under them. To obtain a strictly horizontal surface, the floors are leveled with a building level
  5. Alignment concrete screed having a significant mass, in the case of a balcony it is highly not recommended . After all, this will require a significant amount of solution
  6. A layer of thermal insulation is placed tightly between the joists. When using foil materials, place them with the foil facing down.
  7. The next layer is vapor barrier. It is spread overlapping the walls
  8. The wall must be positioned strictly vertically. Therefore, the location of each row must be verified with a building level heated floors a small layer of cement screed is poured over the film
  9. If heated floors are not provided, a layer of chipboard is laid on the floor in a checkerboard pattern (with offset seams), and then a floor covering, for example, ceramic tiles, laminate or linoleum. It is better not to lay plywood on the floor, as over time such a floor will begin to creak a lot

At the end of the article I would like to give a few the most important advice professionals.

  1. Do not try to place central heating radiators on the balcony. This is strictly prohibited. If such a violation is discovered, you will be forced to dismantle them. For heating use only electrical devices: oil, infrared heaters or heated floors with electric heating
  2. It is not always worth listening to the advice of programs like “Repair School”. When combining a balcony with warm room disagreements may arise with regulatory organizations. If they think that in this way you have worsened the heating supply of your neighbors, you may be forced to restore the apartment to its previous form, as well as pay a substantial fine
  3. Legally, the demolition of a balcony door or window unit is considered redevelopment, and therefore requires special permission.
  4. But, since the interpretation of the law in this case is ambiguous, in some cases it is still possible to obtain such permission with high-quality insulation of the balcony Fashionable last years
  5. Frameless glazing looks very decorative in appearance, but it is not suitable for warm balconies and loggias. Use double or triple glazed windows or tilt-and-slide windows equipped with thermal insulation for insulation.
  6. Before insulation, carefully seal the joints walls, ceiling, floor, as well as cracks with polyurethane foam or polyurethane sealant Any wooden elements
  7. be sure to treat the casings with antiseptics and materials that protect them from moisture
  8. The ideal thermal insulation option is a two-layer cake with an air gap. Use thin materials for this (penoplex or penofol)
  9. Polyurethane foam quickly darkens when exposed to ultraviolet light, becoming unusable. Therefore, protect its outer layer with sealant, putty or paint
  10. Gypsum putty is afraid of moisture, therefore it is not used for sealing seams
  11. To protect the room from condensation, take care of reliable waterproofing. If it is absent, fungus and mold will certainly appear in the casing.
  12. To demolish a balcony door you will need a special permit

And at the end we invite you to watch a video about comprehensive insulation of a balcony

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This might interest you:







The loggia could well be called extra room in the apartment, but, unfortunately, many people use it only in summer time, since it initially does not have insulation, and there are no heating radiators installed there.


Modern way insulation - spraying polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is sprayed onto the walls using special equipment, and specialized companies deal with this insulation.

However, before inviting them to spray such insulation, the walls need to be prepared by lathing them. It will be a kind of frame for the sprayed and expanding heat insulator, as well as for securing decorative finishing material.

The advantage of this method of insulation is that when sprayed, the material, expanding, closes all the cracks, making the surface absolutely not blown, without cold bridges. Polyurethane foam covers not only the walls, but also the ceiling and floor.

Video - How polyurethane foam is sprayed

Loggia design solutions

I would like to show several options. Perhaps by starting the process of turning a cold room into usable area, someone will be inspired by one of the ideas developed by the designers.


In this case, a standard loggia with a small footage is presented, transformed into cozy room recreation. Here you can retire with a book or laptop and delve into reading. If a large family lives in an apartment, usually each member is doing something they love, and sometimes it’s difficult to find cozy place to sit in silence. An insulated loggia will be an ideal option for this.

In such a room you can place a small TV and enjoy your favorite programs or sit with handicrafts, comfortably choosing comfortable armchair legs. The main thing is that there is extra space that can serve all family members in turn to do what they love.

An original option - the loggia turns into a stylish bar

This option is suitable for apartments in which the door to the loggia is located in the kitchen. In this case, it can become a dining room, especially since most kitchens in apartments are quite small.

If apartment owners like to frequently host parties, a loggia window sill can easily replace a bar counter.

You can also have a romantic dinner here. The evening city, which offers a wonderful view, and the pleasant summer air will create the necessary mood for this. In winter, it’s nice to sit at the counter, sipping coffee and looking at the opening wide panorama outside the window.

Glass sliding doors installed between the kitchen and the loggia will help to unite or separate the rooms, depending on the need.

In this version, it was combined with the living room, and the wall, which previously served as a dividing element between the two rooms, became a unifying one, as it was transformed into a comfortable table.

The area of ​​the former loggia in this layout can be used as an office with a comfortable desk, as well as hobbies when you don’t want anyone to interfere.

And, of course, combining the loggia and the room will increase the total space by opening a large window. The room will be more illuminated, which will help save on electricity.

Additional living space can be adapted for various activities, for example, on a loggia winter Garden, workshop or computer room. Therefore, if the apartment is equipped with a loggia, but it is not yet insulated, you need to urgently get down to business and expand the area of ​​​​your home by using a room that is not used functionally.

Video - How a loggia is insulated

This material should be of interest to all apartment owners who have a separate balcony or loggia. In this article I want to talk about how simply insulating a balcony with your own hands will help make it a full-fledged part of your apartment. If you are tired of using your balcony exclusively for storing old unnecessary things, read the article and find out how to properly insulate it.

What is the difference between a balcony and a loggia

To avoid any confusion in the future, I first want to explain the difference between a loggia and a balcony:

  • The balcony always protrudes forward, beyond the vertical walls of the building. Interfloor concrete slabs, which are cantilevered to the façade of the house, serve as the floor and ceiling of the balconies. Vertical fencing (parapet) is usually made in the form of a welded metal structure, which is installed in front and on the sides of the balcony;

  • The loggia is always recessed into the façade. Structurally, it is a continuation of the living space, but is separated from it by a capital outer wall with balcony door. The floor and ceiling for the loggia are interfloor ceilings, and the side walls are made of monolithic concrete or brickwork. The parapet on the loggia is installed only along the front part, and can be made of welded metal or lightweight building materials(foam concrete blocks, hollow bricks, etc.).

Why do you need to insulate a loggia?

In old multi-storey buildings, apartments with balconies and loggias were rented to residents without any glazing. This means that snow and rain can freely fall there, and the air temperature throughout the year remains the same as outside.

Apartments in modern new buildings, most often rented with glazed balconies. Glazing helps protect it from rain and snow, but does not protect it from cold, wind and dampness. Therefore, the temperature and humidity on a glazed but uninsulated balcony are not very different from the weather outside.

I can tell from personal experience that simultaneous glazing and insulation of balconies with your own hands allows you to solve several housing issues at once:

  1. Insulated and glazed loggia can be used not just as a storage room for unnecessary junk, but as a full-fledged room in your apartment. Moreover, when paying utilities, you still pay for it as for living space;

  1. When electricity and central heating are supplied, it can be equipped with a work office, a small home workshop, or a children's room. game room, and even your own greenhouse or winter garden;
  2. If you want to increase the usable area of ​​your living room or bedroom, and are ready to sacrifice a balcony for this, then I suggest doing the following:
  • First of all, we insulate the balcony with high quality and install panoramic window with double-glazed windows;
  • Next, we bring the centralized or heating system from the apartment;
  • Dismantling the old one window unit and a balcony door;
  • Now all that remains is to combine your room and balcony into a single living space.

  1. The following proposal should be of interest to owners of one-room apartments.

If the layout of your house allows, then due to the balcony or loggia, one-room apartment easy to convert into a two-room apartment:

  • First of all, you need to carefully insulate the loggia and install double-glazed windows;
  • Then install heating, sewerage and water supply pipes on the loggia;
  • Install a sink, plumbing fixtures and a minimum set of kitchen appliances;
  • In the former kitchen, equip a living room, children's room or.

Even if you do not plan to convert the balcony into a living room, its insulation will help to significantly reduce heat losses in your apartment. Firstly, this will make the house much warmer in winter, and secondly, it will reduce monthly heating and air conditioning costs.

Selection of thermal insulation materials

To insulate balconies, it is best to use rigid thermal insulation materials based on polymers, or roll insulation based on mineral wool.

Both insulation materials have their advantages and disadvantages, so below I will talk about their main qualities in more detail:

  1. Polystyrene foam is a rigid sheet insulation material made from polystyrene foam granules welded together.

It is characterized by the following characteristics:

  • Sheets of construction foam usually have a size of 1000x1000 mm, and can have a thickness from 10 to 150 mm;
  • They have sufficient rigidity, have very low thermal conductivity, and are absolutely impervious to air and water vapor;
  • Foam plastic is considered the cheapest insulation, since its price is about 150-200 rubles per sheet measuring 1000x1000x50 mm.

  1. Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS or Penoplex) has similar performance properties, but has a much higher rigidity:
  • Penoplex sheets can withstand significant weight loads, so I recommend using it for floor insulation;
  • EPS and foam are destroyed when exposed to ultraviolet radiation. Therefore, they should not be left in direct sunlight for a long time;
  • For the same reason, it is advisable to carry out finishing work no later than a week after installing the insulation.

  1. Foil foamed polyethylene (Penofol) is sold in rolls 1000 mm wide and 3 to 12 mm thick. Penofol is most often used as an auxiliary heat and waterproofing material. It is laid in the form of a layer between the main insulation and the internal decorative lining.

Penofol in thermal insulation coating performs three important functions at once:

  • Foamed polyethylene itself has low thermal conductivity, so it serves as additional insulation;
  • Thin mirror film aluminum foil reflects the infrared spectrum of thermal radiation, therefore returning radiant heat from the radiators back to the loggia;
  • Polyethylene film does not allow water vapor to pass through at all, so warm, moist air from the room cannot penetrate the thickness of the main insulation. This protects it from condensation.

  1. Basalt or stone mineral wool is a soft fibrous insulation that is made from intertwined thin fibers of molten rocks.

Basalt wool is considered a universal type of insulation, since it has practically no restrictions on its use in construction:

  • Mineral wool is sold in rolls or in the form of rigid slabs with a thickness of 20 to 100 mm;
  • It has a low heat transfer coefficient, does not burn at all, is not susceptible to mold, and has an unlimited service life;
  • Stone wool allows air and water vapor to pass through well, but when wet, its thermal insulation properties deteriorate significantly;
  • To prevent the formation of condensation inside the insulation, mineral wool must be installed in combination with a waterproofing layer.

Besides stone wool, found on sale glass wool, which is made from thin strands of molten glass. Its fibers are very fragile and break easily, so after creasing, such cotton wool does not restore its shape. I do not recommend using it for insulating residential premises, because small glass fibers can penetrate human skin and cause severe irritation.

Preparing tools

To insulate a balcony with your own hands, you can get by with the usual set of household tools:

  1. To drill holes in concrete, you will need an electric hammer drill and a set of drills with a diameter of 6 to 12 mm;
  2. Holes in brick walls Can be drilled using an impact drill. To do this, you will need a set of drills with a Pobedit tip with a diameter of 6-12 mm;
  3. You will need to tighten it during operation. a large number of self-tapping screws Therefore I recommend using cordless screwdriver with replaceable nozzles PH2 and PZ2;
  4. It is more convenient to cut the bars for installing the sheathing using an electric cutting machine, but if you don’t have one, you can use a regular one hand saw on wood;

  1. For cutting insulation and slicing cladding panels, you will need sharp construction knife with a set of replaceable blades;
  2. From hand tools you will also need two hammers weighing 200 g and 400 g;
  3. Two flat and one shaped screwdriver;
  4. Small and large pliers or pliers;
  5. Construction level, rope plumb line, metal ruler and tape measure at least 3 m long;
  6. Polyurethane foam in large metal containers;
  7. In addition to the insulation, the materials you need to purchase are dry wooden blocks for making a load-bearing one, with a cross-section of 60x60 mm;

  1. Glue for insulation. It is sold in the form of a dry construction mixture, and is prepared directly on the job site;
  2. Wide aluminum metallized tape for ventilation systems;
  3. Plastic dowels with wide washers for attaching insulation. People often call them umbrellas or parachutes;
  4. Depending on your preferences, for interior decoration For a balcony, you can use moisture-resistant plasterboard, plastic siding panels or clapboard boards. In my opinion, plastic siding is best suited for these purposes..

At night and during the day, significant changes in air temperature can be observed on an insulated balcony, which in turn can lead to the formation of condensation on the walls and ceiling. Therefore, for interior finishing it is allowed to use only moisture-resistant and frost-resistant materials.

Insulation process

Stage 1: strengthening the balcony parapet

Insulating a balcony from the inside should begin with installing windows, but in some cases this may cause problems. During the construction of multi-storey buildings, balcony parapets are usually made in the form light metal fence welded from a corner and a steel square. It is unsafe to install heavy double-chamber balcony glazing on such a parapet, so before installing new windows, it needs to be strengthened.

I can suggest three ways to strengthen the parapet:

  1. To strengthen a strong and reliable balcony fence in new houses, you can use a simpler method:
  • Along the entire perimeter of the parapet, weld additional longitudinal beams from a profile pipe with a section of 40x20 mm, or from a steel angle with a section of 40x40 mm;
  • Weld brackets on each side to the longitudinal beams with mounting plates made of steel with a thickness of at least 4 mm. Each plate should have two holes with a diameter of 12 mm;
  • The existing metal structure is additionally secured at several points to the concrete floor slab, as well as to the facade of the building or to the side walls of the loggia. For fastening you need to use expansion anchor bolts;
  • Tie all the metal rods of the railing together with a truss structure made from a reinforcing bar with a diameter of 12 mm, or a profile pipe 20x20 mm. Weld the extreme ends of the truss to the mounting brackets;
  • After installing the glazing, the outside of the parapet can be covered with decorative plastic siding panels.

  1. In old houses built during the Soviet period, the parapet may be unreliable and very flimsy.
  • From inside the balcony, build a new parapet from foam concrete blocks or hollow baked bricks;
  • In places where the new parapet adjoins the facade of the house or the side walls of the loggia, install anchor embedded structures, at least 3 pieces. in height;
  • Attach a common railing from a wide board 35-40 mm thick on top. It must completely cover both parapets, and protrude outward and inward of the balcony by at least 50 mm on each side;
  • An old metal fence, covered with plastic siding panels on the outside for beauty.

  1. If the fencing of your balcony is in disrepair, it is better to immediately dismantle it and install a new parapet in its place.

To do this you can use the following method:

  • Along the perimeter of the balcony floor slab, lay a new parapet made of hollow bricks or foam concrete blocks;
  • After each row of foam concrete blocks, or after every third row of bricks, along the entire perimeter of the parapet, reinforcing strapping made of metal mesh must be laid into the masonry;
  • The free ends of the strapping must be welded to the anchor brackets on the facade of the house or on the side walls of the loggia;
  • Fix a wide railing board on top of the end of the parapet so that it protrudes outside and inside the balcony by about 50 mm;
  • The outside of the brick parapet must be plastered using reinforcing fiberglass mesh and painted with acrylic facade paint in any suitable color.

Installation of metal-plastic double-glazed windows requires certain knowledge and practical skills, so I recommend entrusting such work to qualified specialists in this matter. Firstly, it is more reliable and safe, and secondly, they provide a guarantee for their work. In addition, when ordering windows with installation, you can get a discount on installation work.

Stage 2: installation of flooring

Balcony floor slabs usually have a small thickness, so before installing the finished floor covering, it must be properly insulated.

Floor insulation can be done with foam panels, sheets of extruded polystyrene foam or mineral wool slabs.

The general principle of using these materials is approximately the same, so I will tell you how to do this using foam sheets as an example:

  1. The concrete floor slab must be cleaned of construction debris, dried well, and covered with two layers of heated rubber-bitumen mastic;

  1. If you use as insulation mineral wool, then for waterproofing you need to lay a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane or perforated polyethylene film on the slab;
  2. Along the balcony, fasten wooden blocks (joists) with a cross-section of at least 60x60 mm to the floor. The outer bars must be laid close to the parapet and the wall in the apartment, and a distance of 300-400 mm must be maintained between the middle bars;

  1. In the spaces between the bars, lay foam panels tightly without gaps. If there are small gaps between the foam sheets, they need to be filled with polyurethane foam;
  2. Lay waterproofing made of foil foamed polyethylene (Penofol) on top of the insulation and longitudinal beams;

  1. Penofol must be laid so that its foil side faces up, and its edges should bend to side walls, 60-100 mm on each side;
  2. To ensure a ventilation gap between the finished floor and Penofol, wooden counter slats with a thickness of 15-20 mm must be nailed to the longitudinal bars;
  3. A finished floor covering can be installed on top of the counter slats. To install a wooden floor on the balcony, you need to use tongue and groove floorboard 40 mm thick.
  4. The floorboards need to be laid across the balcony and secured to the joists using galvanized self-tapping screws.

If you want to lay linoleum or laminate on the balcony, then first you need to arrange the subfloor. To do this, sheets of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB with a thickness of at least 20 mm must be secured to the longitudinal bars. After this, the subfloor must be sanded and a finishing floor covering laid.

Stage 3: Thermal insulation of the parapet and side walls

For normal thermal insulation of a balcony and loggia, it is very important to properly insulate the parapet and side walls, because they are in direct contact with cold air from the street. The solid wall between the apartment and the loggia does not need to be insulated so that it can freely transmit heat from the heated room to the loggia.

Below is a step-by-step instruction in which I will talk about insulating walls and balcony parapets using polystyrene foam and mineral wool:

  1. Before starting work, all concrete and brick surfaces must be treated with an antiseptic penetrating primer. It fills the open pores between the particles of the material and protects the wall from the formation of mold under the insulation;

  1. Mount a supporting frame on the wall to secure the finishing internal lining. It is made in the form of a lathing from vertical bars with a section of 60x60 or 75x75 mm.
  2. On the walls, the bars should be placed vertically, from the floor to the ceiling. The outer bars are installed at the corners of the balcony, and the intermediate ones are attached to the side walls, at a distance of 300-400 mm from each other.
  3. It is more convenient to make the supporting frame for the parapet from three or four horizontal bars. The lower beam must be secured to the parapet at floor level, and the upper beam must be secured under the railing board. Mount one or two intermediate beams at an equal distance between the upper and lower beams;

  1. When making a supporting frame, I advise you to lay electrical cables, heating pipes or other hidden communications along the walls in advance;
  2. If you plan to insulate your balcony with polystyrene foam, then it needs to be cut into separate slabs. The width of each tile should be such that it fits tightly between two adjacent bars of the supporting frame;
  3. Next you need to prepare the adhesive solution. Apply several large dots of glue onto a sheet of foam plastic and press it against the wall in the space between the frame bars;
  4. Thus, you need to glue foam plastic to all walls and the balcony parapet. If large gaps and cracks remain in some places, they must be filled with foam.;

  1. Insulating walls with mineral wool has some differences:
  • Before installing the supporting frame, waterproofing must be fixed to the wall from a vapor-permeable membrane;
  • To attach mineral wool, you need to use plastic dowels instead of glue., better known as "umbrellas".
  1. After installing the foam or mineral wool, you need to attach Penofol to the wooden blocks with the foil side inside the balcony. To do this, it is convenient to use a furniture or construction stapler;
  2. Wooden counter slats with a thickness of 20 mm must be fixed on top of the Penofol. They will be used to fasten the internal lining;

  1. If you plan to use plasterboard to finish the walls and ceiling, then the counter slats should be mounted vertically, parallel to the sheathing bars;
  2. For installation of lining boards or plastic siding, the counter rails must be positioned horizontally, in four or five rows. The distance between them should be no more than 500 mm;
  3. To complete everything, you will need to finish the walls and parapet, and install a wooden or plastic plinth at the junction of each wall and floor.

When making a supporting frame for finishing sheathing, some craftsmen use a metal profile for drywall. At first glance, this option may seem simpler, but I do not recommend doing so. The fact is that metal has a higher thermal conductivity than wood, so at the installation site metal profiles, cold bridges form in the wall. They worsen the thermal insulation of the balcony and can cause condensation to form in the insulation layer.

Stage 4: insulation of the ceiling

If you plan to install a separate heating system on the balcony, then we must not forget that warm air it always flows upward from the radiators. In order not to heat your neighbor’s balcony from the top floor, I advise you to pay special attention to the thermal insulation of the ceiling.

The gap between the canopy and the floor slab must be filled with foam.

  1. The concrete slab should be treated twice with a water-based antiseptic penetrating primer.;
  2. Before installation thermal insulation material, a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane must be fixed to the ceiling. It is needed to prevent moisture from the ceiling from penetrating into the insulation;
  3. Fix longitudinal wooden blocks with a cross-section of 60x60 mm on top of the waterproofing. The two outer bars should be located in the very corners of the ceiling, and intermediate bars should be installed between them in increments of 300-400 mm;

  1. The insulation, cut to width, must be laid between the bars. It cannot be glued to the waterproof membrane, so for fastening you need to use plastic “umbrella” dowels;
  2. To fill the gaps between the foam plates, you must also use polyurethane foam;
  3. If warm, humid air from the room gets inside the insulation, condensation will form there. To prevent this from happening, a vapor barrier made of foil foamed polyethylene must be nailed to the bars on top of the insulation;
  4. Penofol must be attached to the ceiling in such a way that its edges fall onto each wall by at least 80-100 mm;

  1. To ensure the tightness of the vapor barrier, all joints of panels and mounting brackets from a stapler, you need to glue it with metallized aluminum tape;
  2. Further finishing of the ceiling is carried out in exactly the same way as described in the previous section (points 11-14):
  • Nail longitudinal or transverse counter slats to the ceiling bars;
  • Attach the finishing line from below decorative cladding(plasterboard, lining or siding panels);
  • Carefully trim the hanging remains of Penofol;
  • Install a decorative cornice or plinth along the perimeter of the ceiling.

Even with full compliance with the insulation technology, condensation can form inside the insulating sheathing. To protect wood from rotting and mold, it is important to follow two simple rules. Firstly, all wooden parts must be treated with antiseptic impregnation before installation. Secondly, always leave a ventilation gap of 15-20 mm wide between the finishing sheathing and the insulation.

Conclusion

After reading this article, you can easily insulate any balcony or loggia in a city apartment yourself. A visual guide to insulating balconies can be seen in the video in this article. I suggest discussing all your questions and wishes below in the comment form.

Many people want to expand the living space of their apartment, and the easiest way to do this is by adding a balcony. But in order to make it suitable for living, it is necessary to take care of noise and waterproofing, as well as reducing the thermal conductivity of its walls. Although the process of insulating a balcony is not the easiest, it is quite possible to do it yourself. This article provides detailed instructions how to insulate a balcony yourself.

Materials for insulating balconies

The choice of material is one of the most important aspects, because each material has its own individual physical and chemical properties. Common materials include polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool, isolon, expanded clay, and polyurethane. Next, let's look at the pros and cons of each material.

Styrofoam

Polyfoam is a foamed material with a porous microstructure, produced on the basis of styrene. Available in the form of square or rectangular slabs.

  • low cost;
  • long service life;
  • has antifungal and anti-mold properties;
  • easy to install; moisture resistant;
  • insensitive to temperature fluctuations.

  • is destroyed when interacting with paints and varnishes;
  • very fragile.



Extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam - made on the basis of polystyrene by extrusion. Available in the form of rectangular slabs.

  • low cost;
  • protects both from sunlight, and from frost;
  • has high insulation from noise and liquids;
  • easy to install;

  • fragile;
  • more expensive than foam.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is made from sedimentary, glass and volcanic natural materials. Available in slabs and rolls of varying densities.

  • good sound and heat insulation;
  • allows steam to pass through itself, preventing its accumulation;
  • fire resistant;
  • environmentally friendly

  • inconvenient for installation, causes itching upon contact with skin;
  • When heated, it releases poisonous phenol gas.

Izolon

Izolon is a two-layer insulation. The outside is covered with thick foil, and inside there is a material resembling multilayer foamed polyethylene. Most often used when insulating walls, behind radiators, because foil is an excellent reflector of heat waves.




  • ease of installation;
  • compactness;
  • good thermal insulation.

  • poor sound insulation;
  • If compared with other insulation materials, then isolon is weaker.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is clay particles that have been fired and have the shape of an oval or circle.

  • low cost;
  • fire resistant;
  • has good thermal and sound insulation characteristics;
  • has antifungal and anti-mold properties;
  • It is lightweight, so it does not weigh down the balcony.

  • long drying time;
  • complexity of installation;
  • increased dust formation.

Polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is a representative of the class of gas-filled plastics. It has a liquid consistency; when the subspace is filled with it, it foams and hardens.

  • high sound and thermal insulation;
  • high protection against steam and liquid;
  • easy to install.

Cons: requires the use of special devices.

Attention! Please note the following: under no circumstances should the balcony be made heavier; this is a violation of the building design standards.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a balcony

Correct installation of insulation material is a guarantee of longevity and quality. In order not to forget anything or make a mistake anywhere, you must initially prepare step-by-step instructions (plan) and strictly follow it point by point.

Insulation can be carried out both from the inside of the balcony and from the outside. But when self-insulation It is better to choose the option of insulating the balcony from the inside.




Preparatory work consists of:

  • Checking the supporting structure;
  • Removal of trim and frame;
  • Patching tile cracks with concrete mortar;
  • Clearing the balcony of unnecessary items;
  • Balcony glazing. Choose 2- or 3-chamber double-glazed windows for better thermal and noise insulation;
  • Electrical wiring;
  • Preparation with insulation.

Floor insulation

Initially, it is more logical to start with insulating the floor on the balcony.

Action plan:

Various cracks in the floor are patched with polyurethane foam. You can also use sealant or polyurethane mastic.

A layer of waterproofing is laid on top concrete slab. You can use regular polyethylene in these wholes. It must be laid with an overlap, with a protrusion on the wall.

We install a frame of 50-70 mm beams. Initially, the beams are laid on the balcony slab with gaps between them of 40-60 cm. To fasten the beams, use anchors about 110 mm long. Next, we secure the beams in the longitudinal direction with self-tapping screws. They will be used to level the floor.

Next, insulation material is placed into the resulting cavities in the frame. And finally, the finishing surface is mounted on top using self-tapping screws. When fixing the finishing layer, it is necessary to leave small gaps at the junction with the walls to prevent squeaks during operation. The cracks in the walls are filled with polyurethane foam.

Attention! The thickness of the insulation must exceed 7 cm for high-quality floor insulation. But you shouldn’t use too thick insulation. After all, the height of the threshold must be made below 20 cm, and the height of the room should not exceed 2.45 m, and the height of the fence should be more than 95 cm. Based on these data, you need to choose the optimal insulation thickness for you.



Wall insulation

Action plan:

Waterproofing is carried out. Beams in the form of a lattice are installed on top of the waterproofing. The cross-section of the beam must be selected in such a way that after laying the insulation, a small space remains between the finishing surface and the insulation. As a result, an air cushion is formed - the thermal insulation characteristics will improve.

We put insulation into the formed cells. Finishing the walls. Chipboard, lining, plasterboard, etc. can be used as finishing materials. It depends on individual preferences.

You can choose the material that suits your aesthetic parameters by looking at many photos of balcony insulation on the Internet.

Ceiling insulation

There are two options for ceiling insulation: with and without a frame. In the second option, it is necessary to use lightweight materials and this insulation Attaches directly to the ceiling slab.

Action plan:

The cleaned ceiling surface is covered with an antiseptic. The insulation is attached using polyurethane foam or glue.

Beams are attached on top of the material to install the finishing. If you use mineral wool: first a frame is made, then insulation is laid and drywall is installed. The finishing coating is installed.

Insulating the balcony from the outside is more correct. This method of insulation allows you to save the balcony space, as well as prevent the formation of condensation from the inside.

But the problem is that it is almost impossible to produce it without specialists. Therefore, it is better to order insulation of a balcony from the outside from specialized organizations specializing in turnkey insulation of balconies.

Photo of balcony insulation